New Onkyo TX-NR5008 & TX-NR3008 - Page 266 - AVS Forum
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post #7951 of 8671 Old 04-19-2012, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by HAMP568 View Post

I don't think there is a setting for large with the abilities to make adjustment to the hz. The speakers would be full range or with the Hz adjusted.

There is no setting for Large that allows you to make crossover adjustments. By definition, if the mains are set to Large, then you bypass the AVR's bass management and send nothing at all to the sub (other than whatever content might be in the LFE (0.1) channel. You definitely do not want to bypass your subs like that - not when you have not one, but two, SVS PB12s! Leave the XO where it was after the Audyssey calibration, or raise it (never lower it) to 80Hz.
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post #7952 of 8671 Old 04-19-2012, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by HAMP568 View Post

No problem, like I said at first, I didn't know you were talking with me. I hope I didn't sound offended in my reply, I'm far from that type of a person, I like to clown around far too much.

When I said It didn't sound as good, I was having mic placement issues. In another forum, someone had chatted with Chris over at audyssey and chris explained that it maybe my furniture and that I should raise the mic above the height of my back seating, which is way above ear level.

Once I re-ran audyssey with the mic that high, it came out fantastic.

I don't think there is a setting for large with the abilities to make adjustment to the hz. The speakers would be full range or with the Hz adjusted.

You were posting to me speaking on how much I love my reverse (lol) amp configuration.

right now the 5008 is outta service due to the ribbon cable corrosion issue but that is being fixed , but when I was trouble shooting I reset the 5008 to as a new AVR ,I didn't run XT32 & set everything manually as I was describing to you .I was shocked after all my manual settings on how well the system sounded. My room is very good the way it's set-up,shaped,size ie;there is not much room correction that is needed.
the system as it's sits without room correction is more fluid & dynamic with the manual settings . I now am using a TX-NR1009(it's set-up as manually also) as temporary fill in for the 5008 . the 1009 will go to the bedroom later . the bedroom does need room correction .I have 7.2 in there & a 9.2 in the living room .
everybody has a different room, different equipment & there is no *set-in-stone * one fits all* approach.

Mike

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post #7953 of 8671 Old 04-19-2012, 04:57 PM
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HI ALL. with this ribbon wire issue..is it for THE ENTIRE LINE OR manufacturer date ? because not knock on mine AVR; so far so good....

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post #7954 of 8671 Old 04-19-2012, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

There is no setting for Large that allows you to make crossover adjustments. By definition, if the mains are set to Large, then you bypass the AVR's bass management and send nothing at all to the sub (other than whatever content might be in the LFE (0.1) channel. You definitely do not want to bypass your subs like that - not when you have not one, but two, SVS PB12s! Leave the XO where it was after the Audyssey calibration, or raise it (never lower it) to 80Hz.

I have rasied them, but not to 80hz. I can't say that I like how low Onkyo sets my front stage or how high it does the rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

right now the 5008 is outta service due to the ribbon cable corrosion issue but that is being fixed , but when I was trouble shooting I reset the 5008 to as a new AVR ,I didn't run XT32 & set everything manually as I was describing to you .I was shocked after all my manual settings on how well the system sounded. My room is very good the way it's set-up,shaped,size ie;there is not much room correction that is needed.
the system as it's sits without room correction is more fluid & dynamic with the manual settings . I now am using a TX-NR1009(it's set-up as manually also) as temporary fill in for the 5008 . the 1009 will go to the bedroom later . the bedroom does need room correction .I have 7.2 in there & a 9.2 in the living room .
everybody has a different room, different equipment & there is no *set-in-stone * one fits all* approach.

I agree with the bold 100%.

I wouldn't know where to set the manual eq, so I believe in what the eng. guys has done with audyssey.

I do believe with some people they do not like how it sounds with audyessy and it will sound better to them without an automated calibration, but I honestly do love how it sounds. I am picky!!!!

I am extremely happy with my entire combo of HT equipment and how they play together.
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post #7955 of 8671 Old 04-19-2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILOVEMYHDTV View Post

HI ALL. with this ribbon wire issue..is it for THE ENTIRE LINE OR manufacturer date ? because not knock on mine AVR; so far so good....

it affects the whole line of Onkyo's everything that has a 008 & 80 # in the model # ...

Mike

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post #7956 of 8671 Old 04-19-2012, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAMP568 View Post

I have rasied them, but not to 80hz. I can't say that I like how low Onkyo sets my front stage or how high it does the rear.



I agree with the bold 100%.

I wouldn't know where to set the manual eq, so I believe in what the eng. guys has done with audyssey.

I do believe with some people they do not like how it sounds with audyessy and it will sound better to them without an automated calibration, but I honestly do love how it sounds. I am picky!!!!

I am extremely happy with my entire combo of HT equipment and how they play together.

That's is what is important , how you like it ...

Mike

JAZZ IS NOT DEAD IT JUST SMELLS FUNNY ; FRANK ZAPPA
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post #7957 of 8671 Old 04-20-2012, 05:43 PM
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hi all. ok....so the WHOLE LINE.....N I C ccc E..... ok is their a soo like you gotta clean the contacts of one side of the cable or buy a new cable (before it fails) and install it.? or just wait and HOPE that it is not on movie night or clan war on BF3...if replacement of cable is DIY...where can you get cable?

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post #7958 of 8671 Old 04-20-2012, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILOVEMYHDTV View Post

hi all. ok....so the WHOLE LINE.....N I C ccc E..... ok is their a soo like you gotta clean the contacts of one side of the cable or buy a new cable (before it fails) and install it.? or just wait and HOPE that it is not on movie night or clan war on BF3...if replacement of cable is DIY...where can you get cable?

that's a computer IDE cable that was used in older PC's I have a bunch of them ..If you can't find one I can send one . all mine are brand new & still in the sealed bags . you need contact cleaner & some contact no-tarnish compound . what is wrong is Onkyo used a solder flux on the PCB boards & didn't clean it off before they assembled the units , it heats up it runs into the 20 pin connectors & corrodes the pins . causes shorts . it's not hard to fix
& Onkyo will fix it for free also .
you have to clean both connectors & replace the cable , also clean the boards off as well

Mike

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post #7959 of 8671 Old 04-20-2012, 09:25 PM
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I have an Onkyo 5008, and I am using two amps, and currently they are auto sensor which makes them come on.

I'm not trusting the auto sensor on any longer, and I want to use the V trigger, but it doesn't seem to have one for Zone 1.

What's the trick to activate the amps with the V trigger.
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post #7960 of 8671 Old 04-20-2012, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAMP568 View Post

I have an Onkyo 5008, and I am using two amps, and currently they are auto sensor which makes them come on.

I'm not trusting the auto sensor on any longer, and I want to use the V trigger, but it doesn't seem to have one for Zone 1.

What's the trick to activate the amps with the V trigger.

You have to use Zone 2 or 3. If using the Onkyo remote, that means you have to first hit the Zone button (once the avr is ON) at the top, followed by the ON button. Zone 2 will light the Zone button Red and Zone 3 will light the button Green so you know which Zone you're triggering.

The remote retains the last Zone triggered, so once you have it set to the Zone (Red or Green), the next time you hit the Zone button (you have to Hit Zone followed by Standby to turn the amps OFF), it will automatically go to the last Zone triggered.

If you have a programmable remote like a Harmony, you can program macros to do everything with a single button press (but don't ask me how to program it).


Max
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post #7961 of 8671 Old 04-20-2012, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

You have to use Zone 2 or 3. If using the Onkyo remote, that means you have to first hit the Zone button (once the avr is ON) at the top, followed by the ON button. Zone 2 will light the Zone button Red and Zone 3 will light the button Green so you know which Zone you're triggering.

The remote retains the last Zone triggered, so once you have it set to the Zone (Red or Green), the next time you hit the Zone button (you have to Hit Zone followed by Standby to turn the amps OFF), it will automatically go to the last Zone triggered.

If you have a programmable remote like a Harmony, you can program macros to do everything with a single button press (but don't ask me how to program it).


Max

OK, I guess I have to play with a few things. Thanks for the info.

Now for the dumb question.

What kind of cord/wire do I need for this?
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post #7962 of 8671 Old 04-20-2012, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAMP568 View Post

OK, I guess I have to play with a few things. Thanks for the info.

Now for the dumb question.

What kind of cord/wire do I need for this?

1/8" mono-mono available at any Rat Shack


Max
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post #7963 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 02:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAMP568 View Post

I have an Onkyo 5008, and I am using two amps, and currently they are auto sensor which makes them come on.

I'm not trusting the auto sensor on any longer, and I want to use the V trigger, but it doesn't seem to have one for Zone 1.

What's the trick to activate the amps with the V trigger.


Zone 2 trigger to activate a power amp

What I did was:
1. Teach the Harmony one the command to turn on and off Zone 2.
a. In the Harmony control program, go to the devices tab, select the receiver and click the "learn IR" button.
b. Go down to the list and in the "Learn New Command" box enter the name you want for Zone2ON and click the "learn" button.
c. Follow the program instructions and on the original receiver remote, press the Zone button once (it turns red) and then press the ON button. The Harmony should have now acknowledged the key press and learned the command.
d. Back in the learn page, enter the name for Zone2OFF and click "learn".
e. Without pressing anything else, press the STANDBY button on the original remote. Another command learned.

2. Now teach the Harmony remote that the receiver needs further commands to turn on and off:
a. Go back to the devices screen in the Harmony control program and click on the "Settings" button for the receiver.
b. Select "adjust power settings" from the list and click next.
c. Go to the "Which command will Power On your device?" and select "My device needs more than one command to turn it on and off."
d. Select Zone2ON as the second command needed.
e. Do the same for "Which command will Power Off your device?" now selecting Zone2OFF as second power off command.

3. Update your remote. Connect the trigger to your power amp, make necessary adjustments. And you're all set!
========================

On the Onkyo remote, you first have to hit the Zone2/3 button on the top of the remote to get into Zone2/3 mode - if the Zone button turns Red, then you're in Zone 2 mode. Hit the Zone button again and it turns Green, meaning you're in Zone 3. Keep in mind that the Zone button remembers what Zone it's been set to before (so pressing it once may turn it Green, for instance).

Now, once you set the particular zone using the above instructions, you can press ON, and if you're in Zone 2 (Red), Zone 2 will turn on. Same idea to turn Zone 2 Off- press STANDBY while Zone 2 is Red. That particular Zone's 12V trigger fires too.

I memorized these IR commands with my Harmony 1100. The key to all this is that the Zone button does not send an IR command, it only sets the following button presses to operate in that Zone. So to memorize (for instance) "Zone2On" IR command in the Harmony, you must first press the Zone button until it lights Red, then press ON. The Harmony will memorize that ON as being for Zone 2. Do the same thing for "Zone2Off" and Zone3 if you want.

================================
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post #7964 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 06:09 AM
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I can definitely vouch for kbarnes701 Harmony remote procedure! Works great.... Thanks alot man! I used it when you referred to it earlier in this thread. Just another reason to love the Harmony remotes...
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post #7965 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

I can definitely vouch for kbarnes701 Harmony remote procedure! Works great.... Thanks alot man! I used it when you referred to it earlier in this thread. Just another reason to love the Harmony remotes...

Thanks. Yes, it worked very well for me too when I had my 5007. Agreed about the Harmony remotes...
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post #7966 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

that's a computer IDE cable that was used in older PC's I have a bunch of them ..If you can't find one I can send one . all mine are brand new & still in the sealed bags . you need contact cleaner & some contact no-tarnish compound . what is wrong is Onkyo used a solder flux on the PCB boards & didn't clean it off before they assembled the units , it heats up it runs into the 20 pin connectors & corrodes the pins . causes shorts . it's not hard to fix
& Onkyo will fix it for free also .
you have to clean both connectors & replace the cable , also clean the boards off as well

Sorry, I'm arriving a little late with this but how does the AVR behave with this problem?

Thanks,

Jim
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post #7967 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 09:55 AM
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AVR turns itself on or off
remote starts failing to work
the listening modes start to cycle continuously
hitting any button on the remote will cause a listening mode change
the unit just will not turn off with the power button &/or the remote
the unit will not turn on at all
the only way to turn off unit is to un-plug it from the wall
(edit) ===>(mine started with a small patch of the lcd front display being on all the time 1" x1" area that was lighted up at all times )
any or all of the above issues ,( some issues will start small & then progress to include all of the above ) then it's the ribbon cable/connector corruption issue .

Mike

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post #7968 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

right now the 5008 is outta service due to the ribbon cable corrosion issue but that is being fixed , but when I was trouble shooting I reset the 5008 to as a new AVR ,I didn't run XT32 & set everything manually as I was describing to you .I was shocked after all my manual settings on how well the system sounded. My room is very good the way it's set-up,shaped,size ie;there is not much room correction that is needed.
the system as it's sits without room correction is more fluid & dynamic with the manual settings.

Every recording studio in the world, and every mixing stage, needs "room correction" to achieve any sort of reference.

Even when we spend millions of dollars to build dub stages, we need correction...

While you may prefer the way it sounds, your setup without room correction will most definitely not be more "accurate."
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post #7969 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmMixer View Post

Every recording studio in the world, and every mixing stage, needs "room correction" to achieve any sort of reference.

Even when we spend millions of dollars to build dub stages, we need correction...

While you may prefer the way it sounds, your setup without room correction will most definitely not be more "accurate."

Yeah that's noted , but as reference & preference are not the same thing ,is it all a matter of what the person who has the room & the equipment likes ?
I'm not saying that room correction is not a useful tool ,it's very useful .
It is all a personal choice .
I Never said what I am doing is accurate to reference . I was pointing out that one has choices .

Mike

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post #7970 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 10:56 AM
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The box finally arrived from Onkyo so I will be sending in the 3008 shortly. To reiterate, here's what I should put in the letter taped to the receiver:

-replace ribbon cable
-clean PCB boards
-check slight heating issue at the top rear of the 3008, right over the HDMI board
-check to see why there are relay clicks when not changing sources, sound modes, or TV channels and when the receiver is not under duress
-clear the TV control memory (for some reason, I cannot stop the 3008 from controlling my Samsung LED)
-anything else I should add?

Again, I'm not having the volume and power cycling and sound mode switching problems that others are having. This fix is mostly for the annoying relay clicks during game loading screens and quiet no sound scenes during movies and games.
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post #7971 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GalvatronType_R View Post

The box finally arrived from Onkyo so I will be sending in the 3008 shortly. To reiterate, here's what I should put in the letter taped to the receiver:

-replace ribbon cable
-clean PCB boards
-check slight heating issue at the top rear of the 3008, right over the HDMI board
-check to see why there are relay clicks when not changing sources, sound modes, or TV channels and when the receiver is not under duress
-clear the TV control memory (for some reason, I cannot stop the 3008 from controlling my Samsung LED)
-anything else I should add?

Again, I'm not having the volume and power cycling and sound mode switching problems that others are having. This fix is mostly for the annoying relay clicks during game loading screens and quiet no sound scenes during movies and games.

add replace the PCB connectors that the ribbon cable attaches to . rather than just clean them .
if it were me I'd add in the remote problems at the top of the list
as my Onkyo was was doing strange things when I used the DirecTV remote .
some persons have had the ribbon cable replaced as well they swapped out the logic board as well the HDMI boards with new ones instead of re-soldering on new connectors .

Mike

JAZZ IS NOT DEAD IT JUST SMELLS FUNNY ; FRANK ZAPPA
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post #7972 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

Yeah that's noted , but as reference & preference are not the same thing ,is it all a matter of what the person who has the room & the equipment likes ?
I'm not saying that room correction is not a useful tool ,it's very useful .
It is all a personal choice .
I Never said what I am doing is accurate to reference . I was pointing out that one has choices .

Agreed Mike..

I'm just one of those who can't understand why anyone would want to not be set up to hear things as intended... so my point was that goal isn't achievable in almost any room without correction.
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post #7973 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 12:07 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmMixer View Post

I'm just one of those who can't understand why anyone would want to not be set up to hear things as intended... so my point was that goal isn't achievable in almost any room without correction.

I completely agree, now that we have decent correction technology available for consumer use.
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post #7974 of 8671 Old 04-21-2012, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GalvatronType_R View Post

The box finally arrived from Onkyo so I will be sending in the 3008 shortly. To reiterate, here's what I should put in the letter taped to the receiver:

-replace ribbon cable
-clean PCB boards
-check slight heating issue at the top rear of the 3008, right over the HDMI board
-check to see why there are relay clicks when not changing sources, sound modes, or TV channels and when the receiver is not under duress
-clear the TV control memory (for some reason, I cannot stop the 3008 from controlling my Samsung LED)
-anything else I should add?

Again, I'm not having the volume and power cycling and sound mode switching problems that others are having. This fix is mostly for the annoying relay clicks during game loading screens and quiet no sound scenes during movies and games.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

add replace the PCB connectors that the ribbon cable attaches to . rather than just clean them .
if it were me I'd add in the remote problems at the top of the list
as my Onkyo was was doing strange things when I used the DirecTV remote .
some persons have had the ribbon cable replaced as well they swapped out the logic board as well the HDMI boards with new ones instead of re-soldering on new connectors .

The service center will only repair the unit to the symptoms and problems that you describe so providing a list of which parts to replace is really not necessary.

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post #7975 of 8671 Old 04-22-2012, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

add replace the PCB connectors that the ribbon cable attaches to . rather than just clean them .
if it were me I'd add in the remote problems at the top of the list
as my Onkyo was was doing strange things when I used the DirecTV remote .
some persons have had the ribbon cable replaced as well they swapped out the logic board as well the HDMI boards with new ones instead of re-soldering on new connectors .

Thanks again.

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Originally Posted by bakerwi View Post

The service center will only repair the unit to the symptoms and problems that you describe so providing a list of which parts to replace is really not necessary.

I sincerely hope this is untrue. It would be distressing if I send the 3008 in for the unnecessary relay clicking, they fixed just that only (and not the other commonly fixed items listed), just to get the 3008 back and have it exhibiting the problems that others are commonly experiencing (which I am not... yet).

It seems to me that if I were Onkyo, instead of paying shipping for a 60 lbs. rock twice, just paying it once and doing the other fixes would make the most sense.
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post #7976 of 8671 Old 04-22-2012, 10:53 AM
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Hello,
The heat over the HDMI Board is not going away unless a PC Fan is added to the back of the AVR. That being said, since Onkyo redesigned the HDMI Board for the x08 Series and for x07 Replacement HDMI Boards, there really have seemed to be far fewer HDMI Board Failures. I truly wonder what the overall perception of the x08 Series would have been if not for the IDE fiasco.

Repair Centers hate Warranty Work as Onkyo pays practically Pennies on the Dollar compared to what we are charged for Labor post Warranty. Same applies with Car Dealers. It is why I bend over backwards to be kind to the Service Reps at the Infiniti Dealer....
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post #7977 of 8671 Old 04-22-2012, 12:18 PM
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I have not had a single issue with my 5008. I do run a dual of fan on the top near the back facing up to suck the hot air out of the chassis. I love my 5008.
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post #7978 of 8671 Old 04-22-2012, 06:28 PM
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I was wondering about the height or wide speakers on the Onkyo 5008. I have seen people with a 7channel avr, split the signal to an amp from the left & right channel to make height or wides.

The signal is identical for the left and right and the heights or wides because of splitting the signal into an amp. I believe I understand that with a 9channel AVR, it's not the same signal as the left and right, that goes into the height or the wides.

I am wondering, since you can select heights or wides, are those the same signal/channel?

If they are the same signal, I was wondering how it would sound if I split a height signal into an amp and have the height and wides connected.
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post #7979 of 8671 Old 04-22-2012, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAMP568 View Post

I was wondering about the height or wide speakers on the Onkyo 5008. I have seen people with a 7channel avr, split the signal to an amp from the left & right channel to make height or wides.

The signal is identical for the left and right and the heights or wides because of splitting the signal into an amp. I believe I understand that with a 9channel AVR, it's not the same signal as the left and right, that goes into the height or the wides.

I am wondering, since you can select heights or wides, are those the same signal/channel?

If they are the same signal, I was wondering how it would sound if I split a height signal into an amp and have the height and wides connected.

You of course realize than you can run heights and wides at the same time already, correct? And no, technically they are not the same signal.
Or are you trying to run a 11 channel setup, still using the surround rears?
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post #7980 of 8671 Old 04-22-2012, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

You of course realize than you can run heights and wides at the same time already, correct? And no, technically they are not the same signal.
Or are you trying to run a 11 channel setup, still using the surround rears?

It was a thought to run 11 channels. I don't know why I asked, I don't have room for wides. I'm on a 13ft wall.


If I had room, the Onkyo could run 9channel, with heights and wides, but not with rear surrounds. And the heights and wides will have different audio. It's not like when the side surrounds and rear surrounds have the same audio?
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