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post #4771 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 07:43 PM
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^^^
No, you don't have to press it every time. Only if you've pressed one of the other buttons in the mean time.

Also, be sure that you're aiming at the 7005. It doesn't tolerate being off by much.

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post #4772 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobK88 View Post

But I'll compare it with sending the Oppo's L output only to the switcher's L input, as m.zillch originally suggested, and see if there's a noticeable difference.

Actually my suggestion was between the preamp and power amp, not the disc player and preamp, that way if you choose to use a surround mode with a center speaker or surround (rear) speakers the preamp will be receiving the necessary signal (not mono) to do its processing. You also can send the sound from the Oppo via HDMI, digital, analog, whatever you feel is best. Also the tiny loss induced by splitting the signal can be instantly compensated for because the sending device has a variable output (aka "the volume knob").

Your method should work too though.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4773 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

^^^
No, you don't have to press it every time. Only if you've pressed one of the other buttons in the mean time.

Also, be sure that you're aiming at the 7005. It doesn't tolerate being off by much.

I might give Marantz a call. I actually put the remote 1 ft from the sensor and it still wouldn't work. Then I turn the unit off for 20 minutes and it starts working again.

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post #4774 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

^^^
No, you don't have to press it every time. Only if you've pressed one of the other buttons in the mean time.

IIRC, you have to press one of the other buttons twice in order to select that input because pressing it once only changes the RC mode. Thus, selecting an input changes the RC mode, thereby requiring you press AMP for normal function. The first press should select the input without changing the RC mode, leaving it in the normal AMP mode. When I had the AV7005, I got used to it but it is backwards.

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post #4775 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 08:16 PM
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I'd stick with alkaline batteries for this application; they cost very little, will last a year or so as long as you don't use the light much, and are mercury free these days. Use the eneloops for flashlights and higher drain devices.

Do you have a voltmeter or battery tester (ideally one that places a small load on the battery while being tested)? Just because the light works doesn't prove the batteries are fully juiced.

Occasionally IR windows on products are blinded by UV and IR light put out from certain light fixtures, TV displays, especially plasmas, (but I've seen it on LCDs too), where they can hardly make out your remote's signal because they are squinting their eyes . To test for this, the next time the unit stops responding to the remote, try turning off the TV, and all lights in the room. If the remote then works again then this is indeed the culprit.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4776 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 08:33 PM
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I know it's not the batteries because last time it did it (an hour ago), I could still light the remote up with the side button, then I put the batteries in digital camera and they fired it right up and took 10 pics. This has been happening since I got the 7005 and I have tried about 10 different batteries, eneloops, duracell, energizers, BPS, the remote locks up with any battery I put in there.

This is the workflow I have problems with. I put a BD into the PS3, then turn the 7005 on and then the amp on. Then I hit BD twice and turn the volume up to about 50. Then after about 3-4 minutes I try to turn the volume up or down and nothing happens to the volume.

Do I have to hit BD Twice again after the remote sits a few minutes just to control the volume?

I have no lights on at all when I watch movies but tomorrow when I watch something else, I will turn the display off and see it that is what is doing it.

Thanks for the responses!!

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post #4777 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Actually my suggestion was between the preamp and power amp, not the disc player and preamp, that way if you choose to use a surround mode with a center speaker or surround (rear) speakers the preamp will be receiving the necessary signal (not mono) to do its processing. You also can send the sound from the Oppo via HDMI, digital, analog, whatever you feel is best. Also the tiny loss induced by splitting the signal can be instantly compensated for because the sending device has a variable output (aka "the volume knob").

Your method should work too though.

Thanks for the clarification.

My system is only stereo at this point; I don't have center, surrounds, or a subwoofer, and if I do add them at some point, I won't need them in this context. It's good to know the switch could go after the preamp - I hadn't thought of that.

I ordered that switch from Amazon today. Even if I could turn off one speaker with the remote, the switch is even simpler.

Meanwhile, for more conventional listening, I'm really enjoying the 7005. In terms of consumer audio technology, I suddenly jumped ahead about 30 years in the course of an afternoon (from an NAD 7225 PE to the AV7005).

Thanks again, m!

Bob
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post #4778 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 11:00 PM
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I sold many 7225 PE. A classic. Good to know some of them lasted decades.
Also good to know you've entered a New Acoustic Dimension (their non-abbreviated name) with the AV7005.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4779 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownTown View Post

I know it's not the batteries because last time it did it (an hour ago), I could still light the remote up with the side button, then I put the batteries in digital camera and they fired it right up and took 10 pics. This has been happening since I got the 7005 and I have tried about 10 different batteries, eneloops, duracell, energizers, BPS, the remote locks up with any battery I put in there.

You can verify whether your remote is transmitting the IR light signal, or an inferior/intermittent version of it, AS OFTEN HAPPENS WITH WEAK BUT NOT DEAD BATTERIES WHICH MAY STILL WORK JUST FINE IN OTHER DEVICES AND EVEN MAKE THE REMOTE'S LIGHT WORK, by aiming your digital camera at the front of the remote from a close (under 6 inches) distance,. Although humans can't see IR light, most digital cameras, even ones in cell phones, will show the remote's flashing IR light usually as a bluish white light on the camera's LCD display panel. The brightness of the flash may vary depending on how fresh your batteries are.

P.S. I'm not trying to be nasty here, dude, but your symptoms are a classic case of weak, but not dead, batteries.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4780 of 9637 Old 04-10-2011, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

I sold many 7225 PE. A classic. Good to know some of them lasted decades.
Also good to know you've entered a New Acoustic Dimension (their non-abbreviated name) with the AV7005.

Yes indeedy, a new acoustic dimension without NAD, for better or worse. I've been considering one of their receivers or the 175 pre-pro ever since MDC came out a few years ago, but the Marantz seems a better value with - I suspect - little or no sacrifice in sound quality.

My 7225 PE still works fine, but I ran out of inputs years ago. To connect all my new devices - like iPod, Airport Express for streaming from iTunes, etc. - I enlisted an old Mackie 1202 VLZ (a pro audio mixer which was sitting around mostly unused) to feed a sub-mix to the 7225. It worked OK, but once in a while I'd need the mixer for a show, and it was a pain to have to disconnect/reconnect everything.

And I was tired of having to get up to adjust the volume, since the 7225 has no remote.

Not only to do I now have a remote, but I'm appreciating things about the 7005 I hadn't thought about much while shopping - like the HD radio tuner: The FM reception is quieter and cleaner than the NAD's.

The phono pre sounds very nice. The USB iPod connection is convenient and sounds fine too - definitely cleaner than through the tape input of the Mackie. CDs played through the Oppo sound great. Video pass-through seems to be fine.

Edit: And I did one thing no NAD product can do yet: an effortless firmware update via the Ethernet connection (which configured itself automatically without incident). With NAD, I would have had to go to a dealer, or get a copy of Windows to run on my Mac and an RS232-USB adapter...

Bob
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post #4781 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 06:27 AM
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I've noticed recently whenever I am using Airplay either with my iPad or PC if I turn off my AV7005 before closing out iTunes or closing the app when I turn back on my AV7005 I get no sound and the volume is locked at the last setting and cannot be changed even when I try to turn the volume at the unit. I can changes sources but there is no sound. Turning it off and then back on does not correct the problem. Only way that I found that works is unplugging the unit and plugging back in. When I check iTunes on my PC its saying another source is using Airplay even though this was the only source using it at the time.

I was just curious if anyone has had this issue and wondering what is the correct way of disconnecting from Airplay since there is little documentation on it.
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post #4782 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobK88 View Post

With NAD, I would have had to go to a dealer, or get a copy of Windows to run on my Mac and an RS232-USB adapter...

That would be some trick considering the NAD7225 PE has no RS232 port!

Another nice thing it did have however was preamp to power amp external jumpers on the back. Pull them out and you have a very nice, attractively slim, 2ch Power amp which is a great way to make the jump from a 5.1 ch system to a 7.1 system down the road, if you ever get into that, or to power a zone out for another room.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4783 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 06:46 AM
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Browntown,

A Logitech 900 is your solution. Took care of all my problems.

Cougar
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post #4784 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cougar75 View Post

Browntown,

A Logitech 900 is your solution. Took care of all my problems.

Cougar


i was wondering how the ipod touch would work out...
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post #4785 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

That would be some trick considering the NAD7225 PE has no RS232 port!

I meant 'if I'd bought a new NAD receiver or the 175 pre-pro instead of the Marantz,' of course!

Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Another nice thing it did have however was preamp to power amp external jumpers on the back. Pull them out and you have a very nice, attractively slim, 2ch Power amp which is a great way to make the jump from a 5.1 ch system to a 7.1 system down the road, if you ever get into that, or to power a zone out for another room.

As a matter of fact, I'm using it as a power amp right now with the 7005, till I decide what to do about upgrading my speakers (Mission Cyrus 781, which after 21 years still sound great!).

Bob
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post #4786 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 09:14 AM
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^Oh, I see. Got it. (my RS232 regarding 7225PE mistake)

If your current speakers are in good shape, using the internal Audyssey calibration system you now have to custom match them to your room and placement will make a night and day better improvement than just getting new speakers, if you ask me.

Are you dead set against adding another small, modest pair of speakers to the rear for surround or a subwoofer for deeper bass extension? That would be my upgrade path before I'd junk those perfectly adequate speakers you have. Just my 2 cents.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4787 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 09:52 AM
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HI guys, after using my Denon A1SE for years and years I have finally pulled my trigger, "downgrading" from a flagship receiver to this combo. I spent two days to figure out the sounds...and placed another for 7025
The sounds is simply more crispy and clear. I wonder if the power part of MM7055 is a bit of conservative...but connectivity, capability of easier setting up is simply great.
As my AV7005 is hooking both a flat panel and a projector, is there an easier way to switch from Monitor 1 to Monitor 2, without going deep into the setup menu?

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post #4788 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 10:20 AM
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^Yes. There's a toggle button towards the top left of the remote labeled "HDMI" which does it and a button under the unit's front panel labeled "HDMI OUT".

[It is said that the Marantz's most recent firmware upgrade now allows direct access for the two HDMI outs through discrete remote commands, not just a 1 vs 2 toggle command , for people who program aftermarket remotes, should that be of any interest to you.]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4789 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Haynes View Post

I've noticed recently whenever I am using Airplay either with my iPad or PC if I turn off my AV7005 before closing out iTunes or closing the app when I turn back on my AV7005 I get no sound and the volume is locked at the last setting and cannot be changed even when I try to turn the volume at the unit. I can changes sources but there is no sound. Turning it off and then back on does not correct the problem. Only way that I found that works is unplugging the unit and plugging back in. When I check iTunes on my PC its saying another source is using Airplay even though this was the only source using it at the time.

I was just curious if anyone has had this issue and wondering what is the correct way of disconnecting from Airplay since there is little documentation on it.

yes the same thing happens to me in usb connection..seems to lock if i don't close out what i'm doing before shutting down the system...i pull the plug for a few seconds..not really a big deal i don't think...i just try and remember not to do that..
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post #4790 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

You can verify whether your remote is transmitting the IR light signal, or an inferior/intermittent version of it, AS OFTEN HAPPENS WITH WEAK BUT NOT DEAD BATTERIES WHICH MAY STILL WORK JUST FINE IN OTHER DEVICES AND EVEN MAKE THE REMOTE'S LIGHT WORK, by aiming your digital camera at the front of the remote from a close (under 6 inches) distance

Just took some photos of the remote after it stopped working again. I can still control the unit with the front panel and volume knobs on the front, but remote is no go. Maybe I have a messed up sensor on the unit. Thanks for all the info and help!!!




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post #4791 of 9637 Old 04-11-2011, 06:08 PM
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I notice there is some serial control for locking the remote:

Code:
 REMOTE CONTROL LOCK ON/OFF     SY      REMOTE LOCK ON      SYREMOTE LOCK ON
                REMOTE LOCK OFF     SYREMOTE LOCK OFF
PANEL BUTTON(Except MASTER VOL.)CONTROL LOCK ON         PANEL LOCK ON       SYPANEL LOCK ON
PANEL BUTTON & MASTER VOL. CONTROL LOCK ON          PANEL+V LOCK ON     SYPANEL+V LOCK ON
PANEL BUTTON & MASTER VOL. CONTROL LOCK OFF         PANEL LOCK OFF      SYPANEL LOCK OFF
I doubt you toggled it but perhaps it would fix it?

You are reading my signature.
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post #4792 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 06:06 AM
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I've had similar lockup issues requiring unplugging the unit with various computer connection uses (iTunes, Marantz Media connection, internet radio, etc.). The unit locks up even while on, volume stuck, no remote or unit buttons work. Have to unplug to get it unlocked.
That being said, I've decided to keep the unit for now rather than return it in haste since I was frustrated with these lockup and softwars glitch nuances. Other than these extra features not all they're cracked up to be in the marketing literature, the basic unit is solid and very accomodating connection and setup wise.

Why do all of my threads suck? Is there an internet posting school somewhere? -wes k
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post #4793 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 07:50 AM
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Well I read the manual and the Outlaw's guide last night cover to cover. Noticed I had some settings wrong so when I got off work this morning I fired the unit back up. The remote worked flawless for 30 minutes while I was under the Menu. But when I switched to SAT or BD, it remote stopped controlling the unit after about 3 minutes. I hit volume up & down but nothing happens. Seems like once you enter a watching mode that is locks the remote out.

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post #4794 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 10:48 AM
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^Out of curiosity, and based on your actual experience, not theory, would you please describe the behavior of the remote's control capability of the main unit when its batteries start to become weak. Thanks.

Also, since you first bought the unit, roughly how many times have you run through a set of batteries and had to replace them?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4795 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 11:55 AM
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FWIW, I"m still on my first set of batteries after 4 months.
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post #4796 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

^Out of curiosity, and based on your actual experience, not theory, would you please describe the behavior of the remote's control capability of the main unit when its batteries start to become weak. Thanks.

Also, since you first bought the unit, roughly how many times have you run through a set of batteries and had to replace them?

I have had the unit since Friday. I have tried all batteries brand new and fully charged my Eneloops. I keep about 20 AAA and 20 AA Eneloops fully charged all the time. I do photography on the side and I have a bunch of Eneloops since they last forever in my camera gear. I have never had an issue like this with batteries even with camera flashes. I am 100% sure it is not the batteries. If it was the batteries, then it would happen when I am in the menu but I can control the AV7005 with no problems at all while changing settings, but right when I switch over to BD or SAT, it locks up.

I have honestly tried 16 different sets of batteries and every set has done the lockup. My wife even bought an 8 pack of Duracells at the store Sunday and all 4 sets locked up. When it locked up I would put another set in and then nothing, then put another set in and nothing. Then wait 10-30 minutes and then the remote would start to control the volume again.

I am gonna send the unit to the service center.

Proud owner of a Pioneer E-Lite 50" with ISF-Day/Night enabled!!
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post #4797 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 01:30 PM
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Might want to see if its the remote and not the 7005.

If you have another remote that is either programable or can learn commands, you might want to try it.

Samsung 64F8500, Panasonic 65VT50, Oppo 95, Tivo Roamio for OTA, Dish VIP722, Marantz AV8801 preamp, Rotel Amps, Atlantic Tech 8200 speakers, Seaton Submersive HP, Calman 5, Chromapure, Accupel DVG-5000, i1Display3pro, i1pro2, eecolor colorbox.
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post #4798 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 01:39 PM
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Be sure to send the remote in as well, of course. It might have a partial short.

Quote:


BD or SAT, it locks up.

and I think we can safely assume you have a video display turned on in this same room when using those inputs [see my original post on the matter regarding invisible IR/UV partially blinding the sensor]

You might also try a master reset before sending it in, just for yucks.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4799 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 03:50 PM
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My AV 7005 came in today! Before I hook everything up I wanted to make sure that I have the latest firmware. I called Marantz earlier to ask if i could do this without having it hooked up to a monitor and they said yes. So I hooked my Ethernet up and turned the AV on and pushed the menu botton as the tech told me to and nothing happended??? The tech stated that it would be displayed, and that i could go into the Manual set-up, then option set-up. I couldnt ever get the Av to display this or the remote. Can somebody help me on this one?
Thanx
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post #4800 of 9637 Old 04-12-2011, 03:54 PM
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^^^

yes... put your system together FIRST... then worry about the firmware update... getting through the menu structure will be MUCH easier for you when you can see it on your display...

i've noted this before... a pre-pro isn't a bdp... unless you've got a specific issue, there's no rush to go updating it...

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332917/ccotenj-finally-gets-a-projector

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