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post #9721 of 9725 Old 04-28-2015, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harsha1000 View Post
Hello, I have got a 7.1 setup with MarantzSR7005, Focal Speakers, Panasonic AE4000 series Projector.
PS3, Denon Blu-ray player, TV DTH all connected through HDMI. Output of AMP is connected to Projector through HDMI...
Any suggestion will be of great help. Thanks in advance for the help.
I have the Panasonic AE4000 and the prepro version of the SR7005 receiver (pretty much the same but with no internal amps) AV7005, so I guess I'm better qualified to respond than most. The image indeed goes black from time to time and I've noticed it seems triggered by certain images, namely a bright flash of light in a scene or fades to black and especially fades to white.


A sudden bright flash might occur in a movie with a scene showing a strobe light, which is not terribly common, however fades to black and fades to white are quite common at the ends of TV commercials.


There's nothing that can be done to fix this, as far as I know, I just live with it. HDMI has many problems and the industry has always taken a finger pointing approach to "solving" the issues: if you consult Marantz they will point the finger at Panasonic and claim the problem lies with them, and if you consult Panasonic they will point the finger at Marantz! Especially considering all these models are discontinued at this point, I'd be surprised if any engineers at either company are spending any time at addressing this problem. I also later bought the Panny 7000 and it has the same issue, BTW.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #9722 of 9725 Old 04-29-2015, 07:00 AM
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Thank you @M.Zillch and @jdsmoothie . I don't think extender is a problem, the same works fine with pioneer VSK model.
I brought a standby pioneer A/V receiver. I love Marantz for its sound though, that's the reason I wanted to see if someone from Marantz forum can help me out or faced similar problem.


@M.Zillch - This doesn't happen as a flickering and it is random. doesn't happen only when I watch blu-ray or high definition movies or during any action sequence. It happens for no reason every 2 minutes even while watching some channel over DTH. Sad part is even when I just play songs from laptop through HDMI this happens. Annoying it is because my whole family looses interest while watching a movie.


I have to restart the A/V and re-plug the laptop to A/V and it works fine for 2 to 3 minutes, before the problem crops again.
isn't the firmware released for Indian and Singapore Marantz av7005? Does the update loop mean I cannot upgrade the firmware anyday?
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post #9723 of 9725 Old 04-29-2015, 07:01 AM
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Thank you @M.Zillch and @jdsmoothie . I don't think extender is a problem, the same works fine with pioneer VSK model.
I brought a standby pioneer A/V receiver. I love Marantz for its sound though, that's the reason I wanted to see if someone from Marantz forum can help me out or faced similar problem.


@M.Zillch - This doesn't happen as a flickering and it is random. doesn't happen only when I watch blu-ray or high definition movies or during any action sequence. It happens for no reason every 2 minutes even while watching some channel over DTH. Sad part is even when I just play songs from laptop through HDMI this happens. Annoying it is because my whole family looses interest while watching a movie.


I have to restart the A/V and re-plug the laptop to A/V and it works fine for 2 to 3 minutes, before the problem crops again.
isn't the firmware released for Indian and Singapore Marantz av7005? Does the update loop mean I cannot upgrade the firmware anyday?
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post #9724 of 9725 Old 04-29-2015, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harsha1000 View Post
I don't think extender is a problem, the same works fine with pioneer VSK model.
Moot point as they are different brands.

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post #9725 of 9725 Unread Today, 03:04 PM
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Issue sounds like ground noise -- *not* a ground loop

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Originally Posted by DocTock993 View Post
Ground loop "solved" in a safer manner by use of an Ebtech Hum X..
DISCLAIMER: I'M A CERTIFIED ELECTRONICS TECHNICIAN AND A HOME THEATER "ENTHUSIAST" (NUT?), BUT I'M *NOT* A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN (though I've done plenty of wiring that's passed code inspection). IF YOU'RE NOT FAMILIAR WITH BASIC HOME WIRING, DO *NOT* TRY THE ACTIONS BELOW. INSTEAD, HIRE A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN TO HELP YOU. IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, FROM THIS POINT FORWARD, JUST READ -- DO *NOT* TAKE ACTION.

As mentioned a bit further down from the post quoted above, m. zillch is correct that the Ebtech has no where near the power handling ability that your rig needs. So, now what to do...?

I strongly suspect that the ground to your wall outlet is NOT truly "at ground" -- there is noise on the ground line. You can verify this if you have a pal/buddy who has an oscilloscope and you check for ANY "signal" present between: (a) the "ground" that your equipment is plugged into (at the wall plug that is) and (b) a "guaranteed good/known ground". If the ground is good, you'll see a straight horizontal line on the scope. If you see anything else, you're observing some sort of noise being "overlayed" onto the wall plug's ground. (Yes, it could be 60hz hum from somewhere -- a compressor or a motor.)

What would the source of a "guaranteed good/known ground" be for testing? The BEST would be to locate the structure's earth ground. They're copper rods (usually electrical code requires 2 rods connected together a few feet apart driven vertically several feet into the ground) that the ground wire to the home's main breaker panel is directly connected too -- no junctions. The top of the rods are typically slightly below ground level, but not at ground level. An alternative source could be a metal water pipe after the water meter where the pipe exits the house into the ground outside.

To get the two ends [(a) and (b) above] near enough to each other to be measured with a scope probe, you could connect/clamp some #14 (for 15 amp circuit) or #12 wire (for 20 amp circuit) to the grounding rod and pass the wire via shortest route through doors/windows to get it near the wall plug.

If you can't get your hands on a scope, you could try TEMPORARILY running the described "test ground wire" to the outlet, and TEMPORARILY replace the original ground wire with the test ground wire at the outlet. You are effectively TEMPORARILY substituting an alternate/test ground, and using your ears instead of a scope for observing/testing.

If you fire everything up and there is no hum/buzz, you've proven the root cause is noise on the existing ground wire. If there's *still* a buzz that goes away when NO ground wire is attached, then the same noise present on the original ground could be being back-fed all the way to the rods and through your test ground! (NOTE: Again, I'm no expert, but I believe that is not likely -- but who knows?) To test that theory, try the water pipe alternative instead.

In the still-noise-with-test-ground-connected-to-outlet case, you could purchase and pound a new, dedicated ground rod and connect the test ground wire to the new rod instead of the original rod(s) and re-test. If either: (i) the test ground with the original rod(s), or (ii) the new rod/wire combo solves the problem, you can make the solution permanent by re-running the ground wires in a code-legal and safe manner. If you aren't absolutely sure what that means AND how to do it -- HIRE A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN.

P.S. Alternative (more work/more risk) option if noise verified to be coming from original ground wire:

Isolate the source of the noise and get rid of it. Source could be anywhere in house and troubleshooting would require removing the breaker box's front panel (*RISK*) and disconnecting ground wires one-by-one (*WORK*) at the main breaker box until identifying the offending circuit. (NOTE: Simply turning off the breakers one-by-one won't do the trick since that only disconnects each circuit's hot leg, leaving the neutral and ground connected.) Once isolated to a single circuit...
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