"Official" Yamaha RX-A1000/RX-A2000/RX-A3000 thread - Page 293 - AVS Forum
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post #8761 of 8882 Old 03-18-2014, 01:54 PM
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I found this link. I didn't even know this software existed. I'll have to try it when I get home.

source:
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1562948&p=2#r33
Leery about that site... Has anyone else dl from there?

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post #8762 of 8882 Old 03-18-2014, 02:00 PM
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Leery about that site... Has anyone else dl from there?
I just installed it on my PC from that link. It's legit.


Looks old and clunky but I guess it works.
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post #8763 of 8882 Old 03-18-2014, 02:25 PM
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I just installed it on my PC from that link. It's legit.


Looks old and clunky but I guess it works.
Got it too! Yeah, looks old... something made for Win98. I guess this stuff has more options than the iPad app...

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post #8764 of 8882 Old 04-21-2014, 02:50 PM
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It's been quiet here. But I have a new problem that needs attention. When I turn on my A-2000, the HDMI indicator light blinks. I checked all HDMI cable connections. I even unplugged the unit for at least 30 seconds. Going in via HDMI are; input 1: Panasonic BDP-55 Blu Ray player, input 2: Roku 3; input 3: an HTPC. I use output 1 to feed my Samsung A750 DLP TV. Any thoughts on what is happening or about to happen?
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post #8765 of 8882 Old 04-21-2014, 03:12 PM
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Did you unplug it for awhile and see if that clears it?
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post #8766 of 8882 Old 04-21-2014, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic26 View Post

It's been quiet here. But I have a new problem that needs attention. When I turn on my A-2000, the HDMI indicator light blinks. I checked all HDMI cable connections. I even unplugged the unit for at least 30 seconds. Going in via HDMI are; input 1: Panasonic BDP-55 Blu Ray player, input 2: Roku 3; input 3: an HTPC. I use output 1 to feed my Samsung A750 DLP TV. Any thoughts on what is happening or about to happen?

Does it impact the function, or does your video work just fine despite the blinking inidicator? I swear the indicators always look different on mine, but I ignore it because everything still seems to work the same.
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post #8767 of 8882 Old 04-21-2014, 04:26 PM
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Does it impact the function, or does your video work just fine despite the blinking inidicator? I swear the indicators always look different on mine, but I ignore it because everything still seems to work the same.

Video works fine today. The other night my wife had a BD from Netflix that would not play. The message was "content not HDCP protected" or something like that. I just wrote that off as a bad Netflix disk That was when I got home from work 10 PM one night and she promptly put it back in the mail the next morning before I could see for myself.
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post #8768 of 8882 Old 04-22-2014, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic26 View Post

Video works fine today. The other night my wife had a BD from Netflix that would not play. The message was "content not HDCP protected" or something like that. I just wrote that off as a bad Netflix disk That was when I got home from work 10 PM one night and she promptly put it back in the mail the next morning before I could see for myself.

Sounds like it could be a flaky cable, but that is the only idea I have at the moment.
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post #8769 of 8882 Old 05-03-2014, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic26 View Post

Video works fine today. The other night my wife had a BD from Netflix that would not play. The message was "content not HDCP protected" or something like that. I just wrote that off as a bad Netflix disk That was when I got home from work 10 PM one night and she promptly put it back in the mail the next morning before I could see for myself.

How long is your cable run? If it is more than 10 feet, you should consider a 24 AWG HDMI cable from Monoprice.com. Most HDMI cables, including Monster's own cables, are 28 or 30 AWG, which is insufficient for long runs. You can also use the Redmere HDMI cables for runs longer than 6-10 feet if you are having handshake issues, which is exactly what appears to be happening as the HDMI indicator light only blinks during handshaking on the RX-A AVRs.

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post #8770 of 8882 Old 05-04-2014, 10:01 AM
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FYI - Crutchfield currently has a special sale ($1299.99) on the A3020 model; weblink http://www.crutchfield.com/p_022RXA3020/Yamaha-AVENTAGE-RX-A3020.html
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post #8771 of 8882 Old 05-04-2014, 02:57 PM
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Just saw on Yamaha's website that some newer models have Spotify... This gets me itching for an upgrade...

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post #8772 of 8882 Old 05-04-2014, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by VARTV View Post

Just saw on Yamaha's website that some newer models have Spotify... This gets me itching for an upgrade...
2013 adds spotify and mhl. 2014 will add hdmi 2.0. Stay at 2030 or above for some good subwoofer manual eq. After ypao autoeq it will still need some.
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post #8773 of 8882 Old 05-04-2014, 04:35 PM
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2013 adds spotify and mhl. 2014 will add hdmi 2.0. Stay at 2030 or above for some good subwoofer manual eq. After ypao autoeq it will still need some.
Many thanks! We are a HUGE Spotify using family...

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post #8774 of 8882 Old 05-04-2014, 05:41 PM
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Been away a long time, but it only just occurred to me now to ask a question that's been burning in my head for a long time.

Slight public service announcement first which you can happily ignore but I feel I have to say it:
Spotify is a great tool for music fans and listeners, especially if you want to hear an album once or twice before making the choice to buy it. But it pays the artists just slightly more than nothing. I mean fractions of a penny. No artist is making any real money from them. The only ones making anything are the Spotify execs, and *maybe* the label execs, if it's something that gets a ton of play. As an artist I feel strongly that if you do any repeat listening, please support the artist directly!

OK, down from soap box.

My question:

I have a 5.1 setup using a mediocre set of Boston speakers. The fronts are (I think) 5 inch bookshelves, so they do not produce much in the way of bass. However, the subwoofer puts out about 20x more bass than I'll ever need, so it's more than sufficient, and I generally keep the volume on the sub at around 30-40% max when watching movies and TV. BUT, when I'm just listening to music (in either 2.1 or 5 channel "stereo"), there is almost no bass to be found unless I crank the sub. To the best of my knowledge, I have everything set up to spec, meaning I used the included mic and ran the white noise test and let the system set the levels. And again, for surround sound viewing, it's great. Music, no bass. Is there some setting I don't know about that will rectify this. or do I just have to keep manually adjusting the sub level when switching back and forth?

(I have the 2000)

Thanks!
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post #8775 of 8882 Old 05-04-2014, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishy Tia View Post

How long is your cable run? If it is more than 10 feet, you should consider a 24 AWG HDMI cable from Monoprice.com. Most HDMI cables, including Monster's own cables, are 28 or 30 AWG, which is insufficient for long runs. You can also use the Redmere HDMI cables for runs longer than 6-10 feet if you are having handshake issues, which is exactly what appears to be happening as the HDMI indicator light only blinks during handshaking on the RX-A AVRs.

None of my HDMI cables are more than 6 feet. I made sure each cable was properly seated at each component and the A-2000. Then I unplugged the unit for 30 seconds. Problem resolved.
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post #8776 of 8882 Old 05-04-2014, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bustamelon View Post

I have a 5.1 setup using a mediocre set of Boston speakers. The fronts are (I think) 5 inch bookshelves, so they do not produce much in the way of bass. However, the subwoofer puts out about 20x more bass than I'll ever need, so it's more than sufficient, and I generally keep the volume on the sub at around 30-40% max when watching movies and TV. BUT, when I'm just listening to music (in either 2.1 or 5 channel "stereo"), there is almost no bass to be found unless I crank the sub. !

If your front speakers are set as Large in the receiver then the suib won't play anything for a stereo source (e.g. a CD). Make sure the speakers are set as Small with a suitable crossover frequency. (But that won't explain why the sub does play something for a stereo source if you crank the volume. It shouldn't play anything at all for speakers set as Large.)
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post #8777 of 8882 Old 05-04-2014, 07:49 PM
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If your front speakers are set as Large in the receiver then the suib won't play anything for a stereo source (e.g. a CD). Make sure the speakers are set as Small with a suitable crossover frequency. (But that won't explain why the sub does play something for a stereo source if you crank the volume. It shouldn't play anything at all for speakers set as Large.)

If it's playing anything at all even at high volume, then there's a defect in the cutoff circuitry and you should consider contacting Yamaha if it's a noticeable problem for you. When the speakers are set to large or you use Pure Direct, that output should receive zero electrical signal.

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post #8778 of 8882 Old 05-05-2014, 05:17 AM
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Thanks for the responses so far. Sorry if I wasn't clear -- I nonchalantly mention "2.1" and "5 ch stereo" (actually it's labeled "7 ch stereo" even though I only use 5 channels + sub). I understand that Large/Pure Direct won't use LFE.

My system was setup with front speakers "small" crossover at 90Hz, and I *believe* the internal crossover on the sub is being bypassed. I adjusted the crossover on the fronts down to 80Hz last night (too late to test) and will check it out when I get home from work today. However, it seems I'm probably going in the wrong direction -- I would *think* the higher the xover frequency, the more work is being given to the sub, but I might be mistaken there.

Anyway, thanks again. Will play with different settings. It's just that it seems the amount of bass is dramatically different between TV/Video and "stereo." Of course it could be/probably is related to source material, but the bass is still lacking even with bass heavy material, compared to TV output.
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post #8779 of 8882 Old 05-05-2014, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bustamelon View Post

The music bass is still lacking even with bass heavy material, compared to TV output.
Try the option button on the remote. There is a subwoofer trim under volume trim.
Boost your bass there and try to save that setting to a scene button for music.
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post #8780 of 8882 Old 05-05-2014, 07:27 AM
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Try the option button on the remote. There is a subwoofer trim under volume trim.
Boost your bass there and try to save that setting to a scene button for music.

"Volume trim" eh? Why have I never heard of this before?
If it's sticky by input, then that may be just what the doctor ordered. And if not, as you say, attaching it to a Scene will work too, though I don't use Scene at all and would prefer not to, if only to avoid having to reprogram the Harmony.
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post #8781 of 8882 Old 05-05-2014, 07:48 AM
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someone wrote above:


If your front speakers are set as Large in the receiver then the sub won't play anything for a stereo source (e.g. a CD). Make sure the speakers are set as Small with a suitable crossover frequency. (But that won't explain why the sub does play something for a stereo source if you crank the volume. It shouldn't play anything at all for speakers set as Large.


this is not entirely true in that you can also set the subwoofer to "both" and it will play simultaneous with your large fronts, gives a little extra kick to the system too
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post #8782 of 8882 Old 05-05-2014, 07:57 AM
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Setting fronts to Large is to be avoided. Takes a lot of power from the amp and it's much easier to optimize the bass when it comes only from your sub (for one thing you can move the sub around to find the best spot).
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post #8783 of 8882 Old 05-05-2014, 09:13 AM
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didn't say it was recommended, just said it was possible
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post #8784 of 8882 Old 05-05-2014, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustamelon View Post

Been away a long time, but it only just occurred to me now to ask a question that's been burning in my head for a long time.

My question:

I have a 5.1 setup using a mediocre set of Boston speakers. The fronts are (I think) 5 inch bookshelves, so they do not produce much in the way of bass. However, the subwoofer puts out about 20x more bass than I'll ever need, so it's more than sufficient, and I generally keep the volume on the sub at around 30-40% max when watching movies and TV. BUT, when I'm just listening to music (in either 2.1 or 5 channel "stereo"), there is almost no bass to be found unless I crank the sub. To the best of my knowledge, I have everything set up to spec, meaning I used the included mic and ran the white noise test and let the system set the levels. And again, for surround sound viewing, it's great. Music, no bass. Is there some setting I don't know about that will rectify this. or do I just have to keep manually adjusting the sub level when switching back and forth?

(I have the 2000)

Thanks!
I ended up using good old "Pro logic" for 2 channel sources like phono or CD. I like the result and it brings all speakers into use.
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post #8785 of 8882 Old 05-07-2014, 06:17 PM
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Has anyone lost the ability of the Yamaha iphone based control ap to find their receiver on their LAN? I had to manually enter its IP address to reestablish control.
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post #8786 of 8882 Old 05-07-2014, 07:44 PM
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Has anyone lost the ability of the Yamaha iphone based control ap to find their receiver on their LAN? I had to manually enter its IP address to reestablish control.
I never had a problem seeing it in the app but I always had a problem finding the music share on my PC within the app to stream tunes.
All those problems seemed to have gone away since I assigned the A2000 as well as my PC a static IP by their MAC address in my router's setup.
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post #8787 of 8882 Old 05-07-2014, 08:25 PM
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I also made my A2000 have a static IP and have only twice in 3 years seen it not connect to where I had to hit refresh in the app.
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post #8788 of 8882 Old 05-08-2014, 07:49 AM
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I had a problem yesterday with my A2000 that I was hoping someone could provide some advice on.

We were watching Frozen, daughter’s birthday party, on Blue Ray with my Yamaha BD-A1010. The problem I had was that I could not get the audio to output to the L and R Surround Back Speakers in my 7.1 set up. The indicator lights on the front panel of the A2000 would only show the 5.1 setup and all those speakers received their audio signals perfectly.

The BD Player’s on screen display showed that it was outputting “DTS-HD Master Audio – 7.1” and the A2000 was set to “Straight” which I thought would pass the signal right through to ALL the speakers. I use an HDMI cable from the Blue Ray to the A2000. Also, I have the “Power Amp Assign” Speaker Set Up set to “7ch+1 Zone”, not sure if that matters or not.

Things I tried:
• Switching from “Straight” to other sound field effects including 7-channel stereo, which worked fine in all 7 speakers, and “Sur-Decode” modes.
• Tried using another Blue Ray, Tangled , which was also outputting in “DTS-HD Master Audio – 7.1”.
• Switched the BD audio output to other formats like Spanish, French, etc. and the audio from the speakers changed accordingly.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how this can be corrected so that the A2000 will output 7.1?
Are there other settings I can try on the A2000?
Is there a way to verify what signal format the A2000 is receiving from the BD player or if it is being additionally processed at the A2000?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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post #8789 of 8882 Old 05-08-2014, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustamelon View Post

Been away a long time, but it only just occurred to me now to ask a question that's been burning in my head for a long time.

I have a 5.1 setup using a mediocre set of Boston speakers. The fronts are (I think) 5 inch bookshelves, so they do not produce much in the way of bass. However, the subwoofer puts out about 20x more bass than I'll ever need, so it's more than sufficient, and I generally keep the volume on the sub at around 30-40% max when watching movies and TV. BUT, when I'm just listening to music (in either 2.1 or 5 channel "stereo"), there is almost no bass to be found unless I crank the sub. To the best of my knowledge, I have everything set up to spec, meaning I used the included mic and ran the white noise test and let the system set the levels. And again, for surround sound viewing, it's great. Music, no bass. Is there some setting I don't know about that will rectify this. or do I just have to keep manually adjusting the sub level when switching back and forth?

(I have the 2000)

Thanks!

Same problem here, except I have no sub just very large front speakers. The sound is fairly natural sounding, but there is little bass for the hard hitting music (things like a double bass drum have no real impact). I know my speakers can perform, but I feel like the receiver expects a person to have a big sub with independent control if they want big bass.

I recently went into the receiver manager software and adjusted the manual PEQ for the lowest two frequencies. This way I can use the bass adjustment on the receiver to tone it down, but when I want more, it is available.
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post #8790 of 8882 Old 05-09-2014, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Setting fronts to Large is to be avoided. Takes a lot of power from the amp and it's much easier to optimize the bass when it comes only from your sub (for one thing you can move the sub around to find the best spot).

Pure Direct does the same thing essentially. If the speakers aren't large towers this won't be an issue. However, if you are using large speakers, then yes, having the fronts as large can be a problem in surround mode. It shouldn't be much of an issue in stereo mode unless you're using massively overkill speakers like the RTi-A9s I use, or unless you're using 4/6-ohm speakers that can draw more power than 8-ohm speakers.

For my situation I use Large when I don't have my sub on and I'm watching movies/DVDs since I'm lucky enough to have an Adcom GFA-555 Mk. II powering each A9 in a vertical bi-amp setup. Having 200W to each array in these towers makes a huge difference, leaving the A3000 free to power just the CSiA6 and two TSi200s (soon to be four TSi200s). Of course I have my Polk DSW MicroPro 4000 sub to back up the A9s when I want it to. Sadly I've yet to see any integrated AVR that is capable of handling the A9s' power hungry bass array - the bass always ends up muffled without an external amp.

Overkill makes Ayumi Hamasaki sound absolutely delicious. smile.gif

When a Priest says they're going to Flash you, it isn't for healing.

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