"Official" Yamaha RX-A1000/RX-A2000/RX-A3000 thread - Page 310 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Casual_Observer View Post
I've got a A-3000 which has recently started causing me some grief. Using the remote I'm having to press and click and bugger around with inputs and turn the tv and/or amp off before somehow I'll eventually get any sound from any of the sources (Apple TV, LG TV [Simplink], Cable TV, Popcorn Hour media player, PS4). I've checked all physical connectors and the connections it all seems okay. Problem happens whether the LG TV Simplink system is connected or not. Anyone got any ideas where to start looking for a solution? Thanks folks.


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When you are using it next, sit in front of it and look at what the panel is saying re the audio signal. That should give you a clue as to when the source is readable by the receiver.

My no.1 suspect would be an HDMI cable, whether the cable itself or a slightly deformed socket due to previous stress from cables.
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:48 AM
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I'll have to try now that you said it. I already replaced the receiver with a Denon AVR 3300... not in the same league I know, but it has a few cool features I do like already. I will get my A3000 repaired in the future, but right now - it's on the back burner. But when I try the external pre-outs, I'll be sure to post my results.
It used to be accepted that components occasionally failed, and repair shops did a brisk trade. Now one or two people have bad luck and its "poor quality". Too often, easily repairable equipment gets thrown away. I can see no reason (beyond being obsolete) why most A3000s shouldn't be working in 30 years. I have the RX-v3067 and its as good as new. I also run a Yamaha CR-2020 receiver from 1978, also going strong but it has needed the occasional repair.

I would take it to a trusted repair shop. They will be able to give you the right diagnosis. Things like a bad capacitor or a dry solder are simple and cheap to fix. If it's more fundamental, it may not be economical to repair, but could still be sold for parts.

You may even have a "repair cafe" nearby where you might get free diagnostics from a competent volunteer.

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Old 02-17-2017, 06:11 AM
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I've just read your post regarding your RX-A2000, and its need to warm up for a while before sound output is enabled. I have an RX-A3000 that is exhibiting identical symptoms, and was wondering what, if anything you might have done to resolve the fault? Did it worsen over time? Did you have it serviced?

Many thanks,
Jaye.
I also have an A3000 showing the same problem. I've brought it to a Yamaha certified service center and was told the signal processing chip was faulty. The chip or the board that has the chip mounted are no longer available for purchase.

I still hope the diagnosis was wrong and I could just replace a capacitor to make it work again.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:55 AM
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Hi all.

I'm curious to know if any of the fellow owners of the RX-A3000 have purchased the RX-A3060. I am wanting to add Atmos to my system, which is why I'm thinking about upgrading.

For those of you who have made the switch, other than Atmos were there any significant and noticeable improvements in sound quality or power? Just wondering if I should expect the new receiver to be just like my RX-A3000 but with Atmos, or if there are other significant and noticeable improvements that I could look forward to.

To clarify, I'm aware that Yamaha had added additional features and done other improvements. My question is whether or not those improvements have resulted in a significant and noticeable improvement in sound quality and/power.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Chris

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Receiver - Yamaha RX-A3060
Front - CM9, Center - CMC2, Side Surrounds - DS3, Rear Surrounds - CM5, Front/Rear Atmos - CCM663, Subs - PB12+ and PB13 Ultra
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:15 PM
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Since these are getting older I am thinking of upgrading to 2060 or Denon or Marantz or Sony, (others?). Your preferences and why would be appreciated. I've been using Yamaha for years with pretty good luck. All the new ones will have Blue Tooth and WiFi which is a major plus to ditch cables. Most seem to have a Sonos look-a-like add on too which is nice. Presently using at least 4 HDMI inputs. 2 Zones.
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Old 03-01-2017, 08:07 PM
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Since these are getting older I am thinking of upgrading to 2060 or Denon or Marantz or Sony, (others?). Your preferences and why would be appreciated. I've been using Yamaha for years with pretty good luck. All the new ones will have Blue Tooth and WiFi which is a major plus to ditch cables. Most seem to have a Sonos look-a-like add on too which is nice. Presently using at least 4 HDMI inputs. 2 Zones.
I just went through the same thing. I was considering the RX-A3060 or the equivalent in most of the other brands. At the very beginning I thought I'd end up buying a Marantz SR7011 because I liked Marantz's look, but after looking closely I noticed I'd always need the flap (or whatever it's called) down whenever I wanted to see more information on the screen. Since I have my stuff in an enclosed rack, I decided against Marantz and always having the flap down.

As for Onkyo, I kind of ruled that out pretty early in the process due to their semi-recent problem with HDMI. I also think, and maybe it's wrong, that Onkyo is a brand that has a lot of features for the money, but the quality just isn't there.

That's also part of the reason why I didn't want to buy a Pioneer since they're now owned by the same company as Onkyo. Besides that, I'm not a big fan of the Orange text on Pioneer's screens. Petty, I know, but I had to consider it.

I'm not really sure why I didn't consider Denon more. The 6300H was the one in consideration, but I just had no excitement about buying a Denon either - even though it had
Audyssey.

I also thought quite hard about buying an Anthem 1120, but I messed around with one at a local shop and wasn't impressed with the buttons, etc. Just didn't feel like a $3,500 receiver.

I guess it came down to being familiar with Yamaha, and appreciating that I had zero issues with my A3000. I also like that there are many who perceive Yamaha as a quality brand, one that can last a long time.

I was quoted a price on the Pioneer SC-LX901 that was many hundreds of dollars less than Best Buy's price, and got not quite as good of a deal on the A3060 but I took it anyway.

Now I'm waiting for my new toy to be delivered to the store so I can pick it up. Ordered 6 new speakers too, so my whole system is getting a pretty nice upgrade. Hopefully I'll be as impressed with Atmos at home as I was in the store I demoed it at.

With so many options out there, it can be really hard to decide. Best of luck to you in your search.
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:21 AM
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Since these are getting older I am thinking of upgrading to 2060 or Denon or Marantz or Sony, (others?). Your preferences and why would be appreciated. I've been using Yamaha for years with pretty good luck. All the new ones will have Blue Tooth and WiFi which is a major plus to ditch cables. Most seem to have a Sonos look-a-like add on too which is nice. Presently using at least 4 HDMI inputs. 2 Zones.
Upgraded to a 2060 from a 2000 (was starting to have no-sound issues) in November. We have a simple 2.1 HT setup but a bunch of devices hooked up to it. Using 6 HDMI inputs (OTA TV, DIRECTV, PC, Roku 4, Roku Ultra, X Box One S), 1 optical (HD Radio) and several analog inputs to send analog sound to Zones 2 and 3 (amplified)... I also like it includes Spotify Connect and it still has SiriusXM IR (which is always on)... Plus, it's HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2.2...
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Old 03-04-2017, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by pabovski View Post
When you are using it next, sit in front of it and look at what the panel is saying re the audio signal. That should give you a clue as to when the source is readable by the receiver.

My no.1 suspect would be an HDMI cable, whether the cable itself or a slightly deformed socket due to previous stress from cables.
Thanks for your input. I swapped out the cables with no difference. The problems worsened over the following two-three weeks until eventually I couldn't get any sound at all. This was over HDMI so I tried connecting via RCA and there was nothing out of that channel at all. Something must have died unfortunately :-/
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:27 PM
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It would seem that QA had some serious issues on these AVRs as mine is now displaying that dreaded "no sound on startup" issue. I have to turn it off (and my TV as well) and back on, then my TV afterward (because it's my computer display and the OS doesn't see the AVR if I turn the TV on first) or else I get no sound. I'll get "decoder OFF". Yet today it started up with "PCM" displayed (I use 192 KHz stereo as my default for my OS sound output as I have emulators that can utilize that sampling rate) and still no sound.

These are not cheap units to replace and given that we just spent $33k on windows, $4k on roof repairs due to storm damage, $3.3k for painting the house, and $200 on a new SB8200 cable modem to replace our SB6190 Puma 6 POS, there isn't a lot of moola to go toward replacing whatever's failing on this particular piece of equipment. And seeing how many people are complaining about the same thing, it's looking more and more like an overall design flaw, probably one that couldn't realistically be detected until it started happening en masse.

The sad part here is that the only amplifier sections that ever get used on this thing are the center and two main rears. The main speakers (a pair of RTi-A9s) are vertically bi-amped on each of two Adcom GFA-555 MkIIs and use the preamp outs on the A3000, so this thing has never been really "stressed" in its lifetime. To see such low quality design on a $2000 flagship product does not inspire confidence.

Edit: Thankfully I kept the receiver manager software (is there a newer official version than the one given out years ago?), so I was at least able to save/reload my settings after reinitializing the processor. I guess we'll see if that helps the situation any, at least in the near term.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:49 PM
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Just curious... have you tried other sources when that happened? FM radio, for example?

In use: 1) Yamaha NS-BP300 + Technics SU-Z65 + ST-Z45 + Pioneer DV-420, 2) Audio-Technica ATH-M35 + Audioengine D1 + Strawberry Pi.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:37 AM
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Just curious... have you tried other sources when that happened? FM radio, for example?
When our A2000's audio started dropping, it was happening on all inputs but not FM Radio, SiriusXM IR, Net Radio...

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Old 03-21-2017, 04:14 AM
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The FM tuner has never worked right for me, which hasn't been an issue since the only station I ever listen to on the radio is KCBS, and that's only when I'm driving, so meh. Doesn't matter if the FM tuner works if the rest doesn't (I prefer video game music to what's on the radio BTW).

Right now my A3000 works if I turn it on a second time. But going by just about everyone else with the problem, it's eventually going to kick the bucket and I haven't the money to replace such an expensive beast. I actually use most inputs on the HDMI side and at least one component input (I have a PS1, PS2, PS3, PS4 Pro, GameCube, Dreamcast, and Hackintosh connected to the A3000). And I'd need to use another input for DirecTV if I ever had a DVR in my room again (I used to but got rid of it when we went whole-home and ditched the five VCRs we used to use).

I could get by with a lower tier AVR, but I prefer the clean signals in the upper range of the Aventage lineup, not to mention their flexibility (my SCENEs are set as lip sync on/off (1 and 2 respectively) because auto lip sync never has worked right, and large/small speakers (3 and 4) for when I want to get full range on my speakers and not use the sub or vice versa). And having clean pre-outs is a must since my mains are being vertically bi-amped into Adcom GFA-555 MkIIs. Receiver manager control is a major plus for the Aventage line too, as that saves me massive amounts of time vs. remote control entering of system settings and input names and reassignments.

If this thing goes my only real option is to hope there's a Yamaha service center near enough to me that can fix the problem (likely the network board). As you can see, there's a reason I got the high end A3000 in the first place.

Fun fact: As powerful as the A3000 is, its amplifier section couldn't muster any usable bass on my RTi-A9s even in just stereo/pure direct mode. It just couldn't drive those three woofer/subwoofers on each speaker. That's what the Adcoms are for @ 200w for each of the upper and lower arrays on each speaker.

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Old 03-21-2017, 05:29 AM
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... Right now my A3000 works if I turn it on a second time. But going by just about everyone else with the problem, it's eventually going to kick the bucket and I haven't the money to replace such an expensive beast. I actually use most inputs on the HDMI side and at least one component input (I have a PS1, PS2, PS3, PS4 Pro, GameCube, Dreamcast, and Hackintosh connected to the A3000). And I'd need to use another input for DirecTV if I ever had a DVR in my room again (I used to but got rid of it when we went whole-home and ditched the five VCRs we used to use).
The main reason when we ditched our "malfunctioning" A2000 for the A2060 was familiarity. We're not audiophiles over here (we just have a 2.1 set up) BUT like you our receiver has a lot of things going on with it... [OTA (HDMI), DIRECTV (HDMI and analog), PC (HDMI), HD Radio tuner (optical and analog), Xbox One S (HDMI), Wii (component), Roku 4 (HDMI and analog), Roku Ultra (HDMI)]. Plus, we heavily use SiriusXM IR and really like Spotify Connect...

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Old 03-21-2017, 11:32 AM
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Heh. Now it won't even give me sound and just sits there at "Decoder OFF" even after a restart. When these boards die they die FAST. This is definitely a defect and even out of warranty should be covered since it affects ALL Aventage models.

I think I'll be contacting our locak news investigation team to see if they can dig into just how widespread of a problem this really is. Perhaps lighting a fire under Yamaha's ass might get some results.

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Old 03-21-2017, 11:27 PM
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When I asked about FM, it was because there is surely a different internal path, and likely different boards, for HDMI inputs, S/PDIF and Toslink inputs, and internal sources (AM/FM/Network radio). Testing each type of input may help narrow down the possible causes for the issue. What you guys are describing seems to me like a problem with the HDMI inputs/board, which I think was incredibly common in receivers from another brand a few years ago...

Anyway, I'm sorry to hear you guys are having this kind of trouble. I have an A1000, I hope it never presents those symptoms [knocking on wood]. I couldn't afford a new one today, either.

And for what it's worth... in Brazil - where I use to live - cable TV networks are usually badly grounded. When cable TV decoders with HDMI outputs started to come out, many people apparently fried their receivers' inputs because the decoder was sending a higher DC voltage than the receivers could stand. Since then, the usual "practice" among AV enthusiasts has been to run an HDMI cable from the decoder to the display and a Toslink to the AVR. I can't confirm this whole thing, and I take it with a big grain of salt, because I don't see why an HDMI input in the display would be resistant to higher DC voltages than the inputs in the AVR. But the number of people complaining in the local forum and the quality of the service the cable companies provide over there make me think it's not impossible.

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Old 03-31-2017, 02:51 PM
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Aaaaaand now the decoder is completely dead on my A3000. Nothing seems to wake it up into life now. $2000 for an AVR that lasted roughly six years. That's pathetic.

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Old 03-31-2017, 02:52 PM
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Aaaaaand now the decoder is completely dead on my A3000. Nothing seems to wake it up into life now. $2000 for an AVR that lasted roughly six years. That's pathetic.
Sorry to hear this...

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Old 03-31-2017, 06:07 PM
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Aaaaaand now the decoder is completely dead on my A3000. Nothing seems to wake it up into life now. $2000 for an AVR that lasted roughly six years. That's pathetic.
Wow. Sorry to hear. I still have my 2800 running in the bedroom And the A3000 is still going since January 2011. But you're right, that's BS after only 6 years. Maybe Yamaha will give you a discount on the new one.

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Old 04-01-2017, 07:19 PM
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Wow. Sorry to hear. I still have my 2800 running in the bedroom And the A3000 is still going since January 2011. But you're right, that's BS after only 6 years. Maybe Yamaha will give you a discount on the new one.
Probably not. They'll be all like "out of warranty period. Too bad, so sad. But hey, buy our new one instead!"

Edit: Regarding the question of trying the FM tuner, that was a no-go. And as I have both pre-out and speaker terminals in use, I've determined neither are working (my mains are connected via two Adcom GFA-555 MkIIs via the pre-outs in vertical bi-amp configuration while my center and surround speakers are connected via speaker terminals). Headphones don't work either. And attempting to update to the 3.70 firmware "just in case" resulted in an "Error 0100!" when verifying S5-1. I can still use the A3000 as a video switch, but no audio. Fine for Diablo 3 and World of Warcraft which I play without sound, but not so fine for watching movies or playing on any of my game consoles.

Mega miffed that a flagship AVR was treated so pathetically by Yamaha. I was really hoping this would serve me until HDMI 2.1 came out.

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Old 04-11-2017, 10:24 PM
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Lawls...I've graduated from Error 0100 on S5-1 to Error 0400 (on the same EEPROM). Uh...ok... too bad there are no references whatsoever that I can find that tell you what these error codes mean. Not that it matters much when your $2000 AVR has been essentially turned into a glorified HDMI switch without audio thanks to bunk hardware that appears to have infected the entire Aventage lineup for at least the first three years' models.

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Old 04-20-2017, 07:23 AM
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Does anyone know the exact DSPs used in the A3000? I'm interested to see if any of them match the defective ones used in the Pioneer Elite AVRs that give the UE-22 error there.

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Old 04-20-2017, 12:33 PM
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Have you even contacted Yamaha? YOu've been predicting what they'd say, but without actually contacting them and reporting your issue, you don't actually know what their response would be…

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Old 04-20-2017, 12:54 PM
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Have you even contacted Yamaha? YOu've been predicting what they'd say, but without actually contacting them and reporting your issue, you don't actually know what their response would be…

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I've contacted their support a few times over the years and found them quite helpful. My $.02.
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:38 AM
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Have you even contacted Yamaha? YOu've been predicting what they'd say, but without actually contacting them and reporting your issue, you don't actually know what their response would be…

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Capt. Obvious
For someone that uses Captain Obvious, you're rather assumptive now, aren't you? I was told that the part necessary to replace the defective part in my A3000 is no longer made, and is out of stock, therefore I'm SOL, warranty or no warranty.

Now, the fact that these parts ran out of stock as quickly as they did indicates a pretty widespread problem between the various Aventage models affected (all of them are affected up to the xx30 models at least - the others are too new to really show signs of failure just yet).

Now, that said, does anyone know what exact DSPs were used in the A3000? My Google Fu isn't exactly coming up Milhouse on the subject.
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Old Today, 10:13 PM
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The bitter irony to go along with this whole defective parts debacle: If I turn off the receiver, HDMI passthrough works and I get audio (to TV speakers only of course). But turn on the receiver and nope, decoder's dead so no audio for you sirs!

When a Priest says they're going to Flash you, it isn't for healing.

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