The Official Marantz SR7005 Receiver Page!! - Page 83 - AVS Forum
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post #2461 of 2490 Old 09-26-2014, 06:56 PM
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sr7005 + Rega Fono issues - HALP!

Hi everyone...searched for anyone having this issue and didn't find anything so forgive me if I'm inadvertently asking a redundant question.

So here's the deal: I just purchased a Rega Fono MM to go along with my Technics 1200 mk2. However, once I get it going the sound is hugely distorted when the record is playing and when it's not, I hear a faint, pulsing hum in the speakers. I've check the interconnects...both sets (in & out) sound fine when connected directly. My TT is grounded to the sr7005.

So what am I missing? It's about the most simple device I own so I can see how I'm screwing it up but ya know how that goes.

I'm a noob at all this so any feedback from all you gurus out there would really help a girl out.

Thanks in advance!
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post #2462 of 2490 Old 09-26-2014, 10:06 PM
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The SR7005 already has a fairly decent phono preamp built in so this extra external phono preamp isn't needed. Can you return it for a refund?


Do phono preamps differ? Yes, a little, but not by much, and only by a small fraction of the amount that phono cartridges do, however by using external devices you are more susceptible to hum, hiss, and ground loops as the signal passes from one device to the next, especially with very weak signals like the tiny amount of electricity which is generated by the wiggling of your phono stylus.


Anyway, let's assume you can't return this thing and/or have been duped into thinking that "it makes a big improvement" as so many millions of other people have. You'll know that I'm right and they're wrong when on a whim you bypass this thing, using the phono stage already built in, connect the turntable plugs and ground to the back of the SR7005 directly, to the input called "phono" of course, and suddenly have none of the problems you are currently experiencing.


The correct signal path, if you insist on using the external phono stage, is to connect the turntable's ground wire to it, not to the Marantz, and then the output of that phono box goes to any unused input on the Marantz EXCEPT "phono".

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


Last edited by m. zillch; 09-27-2014 at 01:44 AM.
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post #2463 of 2490 Old 09-27-2014, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
The SR7005 already has a fairly decent phono preamp built in so this extra external phono preamp isn't needed. Can you return it for a refund?


Do phono preamps differ? Yes, a little, but not by much, and only by a small fraction of the amount that phono cartridges do, however by using external devices you are more susceptible to hum, hiss, and ground loops as the signal passes from one device to the next, especially with very weak signals like the tiny amount of electricity which is generated by the wiggling of your phono stylus.


Anyway, let's assume you can't return this thing and/or have been duped into thinking that "it makes a big improvement" as so many millions of other people have. You'll know that I'm right and they're wrong when on a whim you bypass this thing, using the phono stage already built in, connect the turntable plugs and ground to the back of the SR7005 directly, to the input called "phono" of course, and suddenly have none of the problems you are currently experiencing.

The correct signal path, if you insist on using the external phono stage, is to connect the turntable's ground wire to it, not to the Marantz, and then the output of that phono box goes to any unused input on the Marantz EXCEPT "phono".

Well, I'm now forced to have a longer cable run than is optimal so I figured this would help. I've been running my TT directly to the phono stage of the sr7005 for a couple of years and even at shorter runs the sound is decent but I have to really crank up the dB's, obviously. The issue here is that my room configuration no longer allows the TT to sit close to the receiver.

Anyway, I'll try your suggestion of hooking it up to a different input to see if that takes care of the problem. I appreciate your feedback!
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post #2464 of 2490 Old 10-02-2014, 11:08 AM
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I need a new remote for this receiver; why could I get one from.
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post #2465 of 2490 Old 10-02-2014, 11:25 AM
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^^
Directly from Marantz. Although likely better served with a Harmony remote which could then likely control ALL of your devices.

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post #2466 of 2490 Old 10-15-2014, 10:33 AM
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My receiver is ALMOST back from repair, so I am preparing for its return. I'd like to use banana plugs to tidy things up in the back. However looking around the web, I see that the SR7005 has some sort of caps in the terminals. Is it easy to get those off? I read one account of someone who took a drill them, which sounds crazy. Then someone else said you can just screw off the top of the terminal and the cap falls right out from the inside. Which is closer to the truth?

Also, are any particular types of banana plugs recommended or advised against?
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post #2467 of 2490 Old 10-15-2014, 11:29 AM
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^^
The caps only apply to European models. Not the case for the USA models.

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post #2468 of 2490 Old 10-15-2014, 02:26 PM
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Some products which have plastic caps on their banana holes are nothing more than plugs with a domed top you can easily pry/pull out with long finger nails, although I can't say for sure this is the style you have.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #2469 of 2490 Old 10-15-2014, 03:08 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. My SR7005 is a U.S. model, so sounds like it might not even be an issue.

Any reason for me to go for Sewell's "Silverback" banana plug over this "Deadbolt" model? I prefer the low-profile design of Deadbolt, but the company claims a better connection with Silverback. I'm like 99% sure it's just marketing spin that I don't need to worry about, but I was wondering if anyone could give me a good reason backed by experience.
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post #2470 of 2490 Old 10-15-2014, 05:34 PM
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I recently bought a 10 pack of red and a ten pack of black double banana jacks from Monoprice, for my speakers, and they were a great deal, including the shipping.http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #2471 of 2490 Old 10-21-2014, 08:23 AM
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Thanks for the tips all. Got banana plugs on everything now, because my receiver is finally back!! It's so sweet after nearly 3 months of TV sound only... gah!!

I celebrated by upgrading to 7.1, so I've got two new satellites in the back of my room now. I'd like to get the most out of them. Is there an option that allows them to be used with 5.1 material? So that, for example, audio for the Left Surround channel could be heard from the Back Left Surround speaker as well?

I'd also like to sometimes have stereo sound mirrored by the surround speakers, to have music playing throughout different parts of the room - I am assuming there is a "surround stereo" mode that does something like this? I looked through the manual and saw the fader options, but that sounds like it switches the 2.0 material to a different pair of speakers, rather than playing in all speakers simultaneously.
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post #2472 of 2490 Old 10-21-2014, 08:32 AM
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^^
The DD PLIIx surround mode will simulate 7.1 from 2.0, 2.1, and 5.1 audio.

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post #2473 of 2490 Old 10-21-2014, 12:09 PM
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DD PLII will still have a front soundstage though. If the intent is more to have an even distribution of all the music from all speakers, good for people walking about the room during a party facing in random direction, say, MULTI CH STEREO might be a better bet. It even gets center stage information, for instance the lead vocals and movie dialogue (both almost always reserved for the center channel), into all the speakers from a stereo 2ch source.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #2474 of 2490 Old 10-21-2014, 12:18 PM
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^^
Agreed. I much prefer using Multi CH Stereo.

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post #2475 of 2490 Old 10-21-2014, 12:49 PM
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Great answers guys, thanks.
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post #2476 of 2490 Old 10-21-2014, 02:06 PM
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Neural is yet another option to consider; it is very similar to MULTI CH. All seven channels engaged without any tinny-sounding, echoey effects.

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Anyone know if the SR7005's HDMI ARC input is able to accept Dolby Digital Plus?

Wondering why my TV's Netflix app gets standard DD instead of DD+. I was told it can output DD+...double checking on that, too.

Anyone get DD+ thru HDMI ARC?

Thanks!

I want Ed on DVD/Blu-ray!
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post #2478 of 2490 Old 11-05-2014, 11:39 AM
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I'm in a 2nd floor apartment, and looking to de-emphasize the use of the subwoofer in my setup (so as not to disturb landlords). If I set my L/C/R speakers to "large" in the Marantz settings, would they take over more of the bass output? I'm wondering if I would retain more bass information this way vs. just turning the dial on the sub way down.

Also wondering, would I lose Audyssey settings this way?
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post #2479 of 2490 Old 11-05-2014, 11:43 AM
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^^
If the speakers were set to LARGE to begin with, their crossovers were originally set low, however, if set to SMALL, then those frequencies below the crossover will have not been EQ'd. Other than that, Audyssey will still be in play for the EQ'd frequency range after resetting to LARGE. Give it a try and see which you prefer.

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I'll experiment, thanks for the input.

Question of a different nature: How does one go about extending the infra-red sensor for the remote? The official Marantz recommendation seems to be a $100 bluetooth dongle that also happens to have an IR receiver (utilizing the "M-Xport" connection). Is there something simpler I could get? I'm not really interested in bluetooth functionality. I just want something I can stick in a more open part of my entertainment center, so it's easy to hit from any part of a rather large living room/kitchen combo.

I've looked into the "Remote Control" RCA hookups but apparently those are used for controlling other components through the marantz. Is the "Flasher" port what I should be looking at?
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post #2481 of 2490 Old 11-06-2014, 12:23 PM
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^^
Or you could just use a smart phone app.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
^^
Or you could just use a smart phone app.
I'm sure it's nice, but I'm mainly concerned with quick volume adjustments here. Tactile buttons on a real remote are the way to go for that! Besides, I'm using a programmed Harmony remote, and it would be a shame if the most important component in my entertainment setup was the one it had trouble with.
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post #2483 of 2490 Old 11-06-2014, 01:07 PM
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I bought, but have not yet used, a Monoprice IR repeater for this very reason. Although it comes with little IR flashers to stick to the front IR receiver eyballs of one's various devices, I'm pretty sure a hard wired connection to the rear panel remote sensor miniplugs jacks will work too.


Look up "dual band IR repeater" if this link doesn't work:


http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq...FYFqfgodvUcAcA

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #2484 of 2490 Old 11-06-2014, 01:08 PM
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AFAIK, Harmony makes a number of IR blaster accessories.

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post #2485 of 2490 Old 11-06-2014, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsaraco View Post
I'm in a 2nd floor apartment, and looking to de-emphasize the use of the subwoofer in my setup (so as not to disturb landlords). If I set my L/C/R speakers to "large" in the Marantz settings, would they take over more of the bass output? I'm wondering if I would retain more bass information this way vs. just turning the dial on the sub way down.

Also wondering, would I lose Audyssey settings this way?
I temporarily kill my sub quickly and easily with the push of a button I bought for $10 on the Big River in S. America's site called:
"Panlong® 2-Way AV Switcher Box 3RCA Composite Video L/R Audio Bi-directional Switch Selector 2 In 1 Out"

Yes, it's actually a switcher, but it works effectively just as well as a "kill switch" and since it is passive, with no active circuitry, I don't have to worry about added noise or any real appreciable frequency response deviations. My speakers are set to small, as they should be, so by throwing the switch both me and my neighbors late at night no longer hear the rumblings of 80Hz or below.


It's also a fantastic way to demonstrate to a guest "What exactly does a 'subwoofer' do?" I've had a sub kill switch in my car for this very purpose for decades.

Last edited by m. zillch; 11-06-2014 at 01:20 PM.
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Losing sound on several Uverse channels

Checking in to see if anyone has been experiencing similar issues or offer any advice. Starting yesterday, I noticed that several channels have any audio through my 7005. It is hooked up to a Uverse DVR via HDMI. Also odd, while watching football today, the sound worked on the game, but every commercial was muted.

I had AT&T out today and the technician thought it was the DVR so he switched boxes. Same problem. When I bypass the receiver and go straight through the TV, I get audio without issues.

He left with no resolution, telling me it was my 7005, but if it was a problem with my Marantz, I assume it would either work or not work - not only work on some channels. Very bizarre. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
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post #2487 of 2490 Old Today, 09:25 AM
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I now have a brand new remote. That is not the problem.

The receiver will not recognize the remote. Nothing is happening. The remote works fines,light up etc, but doe nothing on the receiver.

I have reset receiver as Marantz suggested; still nothing. Everything is fine manually.

Help please
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post #2488 of 2490 Old Today, 10:57 AM
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Sometimes batteries which seem fine (they light up the display and when tested under a simple volt meter report as being close to 1.5V, so they aren't initially questioned) actually have a hidden problem when put under a certain kind of electrical load. Also, whereas some remotes are quite comfortable with chemistries such as Ni-cad, NIMH, Eneloops, etc. others will balk at their use beyond a few minutes of use even after being fully charged.


I would try a brand new set of name brand alkaline batteries, such as Duracell or Energizer, which you LITERALLY just removed from the packaged, right then and there, to put in the remote to test it. I bet you this will cure it! I'm going to assume you'll take me up on at least a gentlemen's bet so it is now your move to prove me wrong.


I'm also betting you don't own a third party universal remote because if you did you'd see that that one works fine, proving the receiver itself is OK, and that the culprit is the batteries and/or finicky battery demands of your Marantz remote. [Which I had very similar gripes about as well but I moved on to a universal remote].
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Sometimes batteries which seem fine (they light up the display and when tested under a simple volt meter report as being close to 1.5V, so they aren't initially questioned) actually have a hidden problem when put under a certain kind of electrical load. Also, whereas some remotes are quite comfortable with chemistries such as Ni-cad, NIMH, Eneloops, etc. others will balk at their use beyond a few minutes of use even after being fully charged.


I would try a brand new set of name brand alkaline batteries, such as Duracell or Energizer, which you LITERALLY just removed from the packaged, right then and there, to put in the remote to test it. I bet you this will cure it! I'm going to assume you'll take me up on at least a gentlemen's bet so it is now your move to prove me wrong.


I'm also betting you don't own a third party universal remote because if you did you'd see that that one works fine, proving the receiver itself is OK, and that the culprit is the batteries and/or finicky battery demands of your Marantz remote. [Which I had very similar gripes about as well but I moved on to a universal remote].
I have a new pair, just got them, trying now. Does not work. The problem is the receiver.
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post #2490 of 2490 Old Today, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
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I have a new pair, just got them, trying now. Does not work. The problem is the receiver.
I was correct you don't own a universal remote, correct?
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