The Official Marantz SR7005 Receiver Page!! - Page 84 - AVS Forum
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post #2491 of 2506 Old 11-29-2014, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I was correct you don't own a universal remote, correct?
I don't need one. I was controlling multiple device with the Marantz one.
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post #2492 of 2506 Old 11-29-2014, 10:23 AM
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I don't need one. I was controlling multiple device with the Marantz one.
Blast, my efforts to force universal remotes on consumers needlessly has been foiled yet again! Buhahahaha.
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The problem is the receiver.
Better send it in for service. If it comes back "NPF" that stands for "No problem found", by the way.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


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post #2493 of 2506 Old 11-29-2014, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Blast, my efforts to force universal remotes on consumers needlessly has been foiled yet again! Buhahahaha.
Hello, everyone; my name is Edwin. And, yes, I also use my factory-issued remote to control multiple devices, too. [sniffling in shame]

Edwin R. Hurd
AVS Forums Lurker-In-Training!

My Tight-space A/V Setup
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post #2494 of 2506 Old 11-29-2014, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by keenly View Post
I need a new remote for this receiver; why could I get one from.
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I now have a brand new remote. That is not the problem.

The receiver will not recognize the remote. Nothing is happening. The remote works fines,light up etc, but doe nothing on the receiver.
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I have a new pair, just got them, trying now. Does not work. The problem is the receiver.
When I last priced them, Marantz RC011SR remotes cost more than many universal remotes, even wiz bang deluxe ones like the Harmony 350, and my after market remote made by URC has markedly better range than the Marantz one, works off axis to the receiver's front panel much better, and doesn't eat up batteries, seemingly even from just sitting on a shelf for a few months without much use.


What has other people's findings been compared to third party remotes?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #2495 of 2506 Old 12-02-2014, 11:33 PM
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I just bought an open box AV7005 at Best Buy. Need to buy a remote, calibration mic, and XLR cables.

Looks like the RC011 remote goes for $55+ on ebay. Which universal remotes work with the 7005? Doesn't have to be super powerful; long battery life would be nice.

The ACM1H mic is only ~ $15k on ebay.
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post #2496 of 2506 Old 12-03-2014, 07:12 AM
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How do I actually use the red and white composite inputs for "CD" and "PHONO"? I'm hooking an extra audio source to them, but can't figure out how to assign the input through the menu. It looks like I am limited to Coax or Optical for CD, and Phono doesn't appear in the "Input Assign" menu at all.
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post #2497 of 2506 Old 12-03-2014, 07:39 AM
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^^
The analog audio inputs are not assignable on this model and the Phono input can only be used with a turntable without a built-in phono pre-amp.

Assignment of analog audio inputs was first introduced in 2012 on the AV8801 and then on all models in 2013.

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post #2498 of 2506 Old 12-03-2014, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
^^
The analog audio inputs are not assignable on this model and the Phono input can only be used with a turntable without a built-in phono pre-amp.

Assignment of analog audio inputs was first introduced in 2012 on the AV8801 and then on all models in 2013.
Thanks for the informative response. I had problems in the past that were related to the Input Assign menu and assumed this was the same.

So how does one get audio out of that connection then? Just to clarify, I'm talking about this one here:

[irrelevant pic]

*EDIT: I should add that I've been using the "CDR" composite connection for a while, without issue.


Never mind. After all that fuss, I just switched this connection with the one I had in the "CDR" input, and the now it's all working as I had originally hoped. It seems the CD input just didn't play nice with the AV switch I was using with the new component/s, for whatever reason. Not sure why the CD and CDR inputs would behave differently in that regard, but hey everything's set up like I wanted now so I won't complain!

Last edited by Gsaraco; 12-03-2014 at 09:31 AM.
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post #2499 of 2506 Old 12-03-2014, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky View Post
I just bought an open box AV7005 at Best Buy. Need to buy a remote, calibration mic, and XLR cables.

Looks like the RC011 remote goes for $55+ on ebay. Which universal remotes work with the 7005? Doesn't have to be super powerful; long battery life would be nice.

The ACM1H mic is only ~ $15k on ebay.
I use the Harmony remotes - they have all the codes stored in their data base and download them when you set it up. They still have some battery powered ones I think but I use the recharging Li powered ones so I never worry about battery life. They also have the best customer support

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Family Room:70" Sharp Elite/Marantz AV8801/MM8077/GoldenEar:Triton Ones (superseding Triton 2s), SuperCenter XL center channel, and SuperSat 60surrounds/Oppo BDP-105/Directv Genie/ HP Notebook
Basement: 60" Sony SXRD KDS-60A2000/Marantz AV8003/Marantz MM8003/PSB Stratus Gold Front,Center,Left, Surrounds
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post #2500 of 2506 Old 12-04-2014, 09:17 AM
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I use the Harmony remotes - they have all the codes stored in their data base and download them when you set it up. They still have some battery powered ones I think but I use the recharging Li powered ones so I never worry about battery life. They also have the best customer support
Thanks, I will try a harmony 700.
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post #2501 of 2506 Old Yesterday, 11:09 PM
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Okay guys, all of a sudden after 3yrs of use, my Panasonic TV from HDMI-1 input when blank. Got audio from all my sources but no video. Then after doing some "debugging" (yes I'm a computer programmer), it turns out it wasn't HDM1, 2 or 3 that was bad on my TV. It was HDMI-1 ARC on the my Marantz SR7005. I switched the in/out from HDMI-1 ARC to just HDMI-2 and voila...video is back. Has anyone had a problem with their HDMI-1/ARC (Audio Return Channel) go bad on theirs? Any suggestions on how to fix before I turn it in for repair (though HDMI-2 works just as fine).

Thanks,
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post #2502 of 2506 Old Yesterday, 11:29 PM
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Are you sure switching back to HDMI-1 won't find it working again? On the SR7005 only one of the two HDMI outs can work at a time and if one locks up sometimes all it needs is to be toggled away from the HDMI out you want, wait for an attempted handshake with the new output (wait at least 10 seconds) and then return back to the original HDMI out and it works again, after reestablishing yet another new handshake.


I doubt the repair cost will be worth it for most folks considering the even lower cost of adding an outboard HDMI switch box, which could be added to the existing, working output, or maybe even spring for two simultaneous outs by way of an active HDMI splitter for that one good port. I can vouch for this one I bought for about $24 shipped:
"ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D "

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


Last edited by m. zillch; Yesterday at 11:32 PM.
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post #2503 of 2506 Old Today, 09:53 AM
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I didn't wait for 10 seconds. I will try your solution when I get home tonight and if not will look at the switch you purchased.

Thanks
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post #2504 of 2506 Old Today, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Are you sure switching back to HDMI-1 won't find it working again?
Okay got home and yes I turned on my DIRECTV HD DVR, Panasonic Viera TC-P55VT30 TV, all from the DIRECTV remote, and since I am plugged into HDMI-1 ARC then also it remembers that any other devices that were last turned on/off, that other device being the Marantz receiver, so all 3 things would ordinarily turn on. But it didn't. So I used the AVR remote to turn it on. I got audio but no video.

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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
On the SR7005 only one of the two HDMI outs can work at a time and if one locks up sometimes all it needs is to be toggled away from the HDMI out you want, wait for an attempted handshake with the new output (wait at least 10 seconds) and then return back to the original HDMI out and it works again, after reestablishing yet another new handshake.
I tried this suggestion of yours and no change. HDMI-2 works fine, but not 1-ARC. I like the ARC because all 3 devices would turn on automatically. My Marantz was under a 1yr mfg warranty so I'm in yr 3. Other than that it works fine.

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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I doubt the repair cost will be worth it for most folks considering the even lower cost of adding an outboard HDMI switch box, which could be added to the existing, working output, or maybe even spring for two simultaneous outs by way of an active HDMI splitter for that one good port. I can vouch for this one I bought for about $24 shipped:
"ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D "
Does this device duplicate the functionality of ARC? I will look into it. Thanks for the advice zillch.
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post #2505 of 2506 Old Today, 10:18 PM
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Okay got home and yes I turned on my DIRECTV HD DVR, Panasonic Viera TC-P55VT30 TV, all from the DIRECTV remote, and since I am plugged into HDMI-1 ARC then also it remembers that any other devices that were last turned on/off, that other device being the Marantz receiver, so all 3 things would ordinarily turn on. But it didn't.
ARC has nothing to do with devices talking to each other and automatically turning on, for example. That feature is called HDMI control ["ON"] and HDMI out #2 has it.


ARC, which can be turned on or off and only exists for HDMI out #1 , means instead of sending out sound to the speakers from the selected source, like from your sat box or blu ray, instead the SR7005 amplifies sound coming from the TV itself, useful only to people who use the TV set's internal tuner to watch over the air broadcasts or for Smart TVs (or whatever they call them) which play video files from an inserted memory card, streaming service, etc.


You should be able to go into the menu of the sr7005 while watching the TV display n HDMI out #2, to turn on HDMI control (which you seem to like).


The device I bought lets me, in theory, send the signal from my device to two TVs simultaneously, so it isn't an A/B switch like what's in your SR7005, but rather a "splitter", taking one output and splitting it in to two out to send it off to two TV displays. If you don't need to do this there would be no reason for you to buy it.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


Last edited by m. zillch; Today at 10:23 PM.
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post #2506 of 2506 Unread Today, 10:43 PM
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ARC has nothing to do with devices talking to each other and automatically turning on, for example. That feature is called HDMI control ["ON"] and HDMI out #2 has it.
After I posted I was researching this and I did see the setting HDMI control. And the thing is, is that this happened two days ago when I went to bed and I shut off everything with one remote but the AVR didn't turn off. I figured I'll deal with it the next day. But no settings were touched AT ALL.

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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
ARC, which can be turned on or off and only exists for HDMI out #1 , means instead of sending out sound to the speakers from the selected source, like from your sat box or blu ray, instead the SR7005 amplifies sound coming from the TV itself, useful only to people who use the TV set's internal tuner to watch over the air broadcasts or for Smart TVs (or whatever they call them) which play video files from an inserted memory card, streaming service, etc.
I did get the basic concept of it, like when using Vieracast on my Panasonic TV, there is a "chime/bell" sound that wouldn't play in my speakers and only come out of the TV speakers, until I used ARC and then it would go to my external Martin Logan speakers.

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You should be able to go into the menu of the sr7005 while watching the TV display in HDMI out #2, to turn on HDMI control (which you seem to like).
Yes I like this feature but as I mentioned that setting was never touched but I did check and confirmed and it was set to ON. Now I have the HDMI cable from the AVR in slot HDMI-2 going up to the TV in HDMI-1 ARC. Now why I keep it there is because my calibrator that calibrated my TV has all my settings on HDMI-1 slot. So I guess I'll keep it there. As for why when I shut off the DIRECTV DVR using the remote, only the TV and DVR shut-off and not the AVR.

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The device I bought lets me, in theory, send the signal from my device to two TVs simultaneously, so it isn't an A/B switch like what's in your SR7005, but rather a "splitter", taking one output and splitting it in to two out to send it off to two TV displays. If you don't need to do this there would be no reason for you to buy it.
Yeah I figured it was just a typical splitter for 1 out to 2 input displays. I wouldn't have a need for that. Thanks for the help.
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