The Official Marantz SR7005 Receiver Page!! - Page 85 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2521 of 2544 Old 01-21-2015, 05:35 PM
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There have been other reports of blown HDMI boards on these units. Not sure how much they cost to replace and repair, but I'd be inclined to just buy a new AVR or continue to use the SR7005 with the analog video ports until a serious advancement in A/V comes along that you long for. Spending 100-150 bucks to fix what's now an older unit would be hard to justify in my book.


Having used the prepro version of this unit, the AV7005 for many years, I recently was in a pinch and needed a new power amp to go with it. As an interim solution I simply bought an introductory Yamaha AVR, a b-stock RXV375, then around $169, shipped, to fill in for both prepro and M.Ch amp, and I was blown away by how good it was, in fact in some regards I like it better!

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #2522 of 2544 Old 02-10-2015, 09:46 AM
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CEC, ARC issue

Hi guys, I never had a TV with an ARC until now, so I dont really know how it's supposed to work. The problem is that every time I turn the TV on, my SR7005 comes on as well, this can't be normal, right?

How do I fix this?

If it's relevant the TV is a 65" vizio
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post #2523 of 2544 Old 02-10-2015, 10:16 AM
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^In the Marantz "HDMI setup" menu you need to change the status of "Power off control".

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #2524 of 2544 Old 02-10-2015, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by SonicAppeal View Post
Hi guys, I never had a TV with an ARC until now, so I dont really know how it's supposed to work. The problem is that every time I turn the TV on, my SR7005 comes on as well, this can't be normal, right?

How do I fix this?

If it's relevant the TV is a 65" vizio
Are you using the HDMI(ARC) feature to pass TV smart app audio back to the AVR? If yes, then yes this is normal. If you're not using HDMI(ARC), then set HDMI Control (p. 80 Owner's manual) to OFF.

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post #2525 of 2544 Old 02-10-2015, 11:55 AM
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^In the Marantz "HDMI setup" menu you need to change the status of "Power off control".
That option is kind of the opposite of what I want. With this option the AVR shuts off automaticlaly by turning the TV off.

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Are you using the HDMI(ARC) feature to pass TV smart app audio back to the AVR? If yes, then yes this is normal. If you're not using HDMI(ARC), then set HDMI Control (p. 80 Owner's manual) to OFF.

So with this ARC function is either turn the AVR off every time you turn the TV on OR set the HDMI control to "off" but then if you need sound from your system, you have to go back in the menu and turn the HDMI a control to "on"!?!?!?

I am so disappointed right now... I guess I've always had a better set up: I always have an optical cable running from the TV or the cable box to the TV input of whatever AVR I have. So if I want to watch TV with sound from my HT, for like a fight, a concert or whatever -5% of the time- I jus turn the AVR on but if I just want sound from the TV itself -95% of the time- I simply turn the TV on... And that's it.

Is this the norm? I just can't see a Yamaha AVR being so asinine...
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post #2526 of 2544 Old 02-10-2015, 12:26 PM
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^^
Sounds like you would be better served not using HDMI(ARC) and simply connect an optical cable from the TV --> AVR.

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post #2527 of 2544 Old 02-10-2015, 12:58 PM
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I can't speak to Vizio, but on my Panny TV HDMI CEC commands for "On" and "Off" can independently be set. Does Vizio have this?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #2528 of 2544 Old 02-11-2015, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
^^
Sounds like you would be better served not using HDMI(ARC) and simply connect an optical cable from the TV --> AVR.
Lol... So much for common sense, ah?

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I can't speak to Vizio, but on my Panny TV HDMI CEC commands for "On" and "Off" can independently be set. Does Vizio have this?
OIC, well, i was messing with some settings on both the TV and the AVR and nothing worked.
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post #2529 of 2544 Old 02-11-2015, 07:38 AM
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Oh btw, I ended up turning off the HDMI control off on the AVR because I'd use the HT for TV playback very seldom, so I figured I'd just go in the menu and turn it on in a case by case basis.

Well, to add insult to injury, by turning off the HDMI control, by default, the HDMI pass through (which is set up to "last") also shuts off. So in order to use either my kids' Wii U, the Apple TV or my Xbox one at all, I also have to go in the menu and turn the HDMI control to "on."

So, I have to turn off the CEC function from the TV instead.

I guess my 90s set up with optical cable is much more efficient than current technological advancements, lol.

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post #2530 of 2544 Old 02-11-2015, 10:02 AM
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adding second sub a klipsch r-10sw w/adjustments for crossover freq. what setting?

hi i am adding a second sub to the home theatre system a klipsch r-10sw. the first sub is the onkyo skw 770 and the rest of the speakers are the Klipsch icon series. originally i used the audyseey to set up everything and life has been good. this new sub has dial adjustment settings on it for gain/volume and the cross over frequencies. i am using the LFE rca plug for the input.

so the question is how do i know what to set the cross over frequencies to on the sub woofer control panel. i have read the marantz manual and it is a wee bit confusing. the klipsch manual seemed to indicate if the cross over was controlled by the AV receiver to set the dial on the sub control panel to 160hz. although wouldnt it make more sense to set the sub control panel to what ever the output frequency is coming out of the AV receiver?

thanks bob
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post #2531 of 2544 Old 02-11-2015, 10:08 AM
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^^
Follow the directions and set sub to max (ie. 160Hz) as the AVR will control bass management. Run Audyssey again to account for second sub.

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post #2532 of 2544 Old 02-11-2015, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
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^^
Follow the directions and set sub to max (ie. 160Hz) as the AVR will control bass management. Run Audyssey again to account for second sub.

thks JD i appreciate the help, i think i understand.....setting the sub to 160 allows the sub woofer to process whatever frequencies the AVR sends to the subwoofer, in other words the sub control panel filters out nothing. will the audyssey system ping each of the two subwoofers individually and then will I see them listed individually in the channel level display screen?

from my original Audyssey set up i did notice that the original subwoofer had a +3.00 db rating where most of the speakers had a -2.00 db range. i am assuming that i must have had the subwoofer volume turned down a little too low and the audyssey compensated by boosting the gain to the channel. since i can control the sub volume do i want to aim for an audysey channel level neutral position of 0.00 db? seems like i can keep doing the tests until i get it right. thks bob

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post #2533 of 2544 Old 02-12-2015, 09:06 AM
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life is good again....i did alot of reading in the manual and I was able to get to the menu driven system that sent out test tones to each speaker so i could balance the two subwoofers to each other. then I ran the Audysey set up several times with some rebalancing of the speakers unitl I got the subwoofer channel levels to be greater then -12.00db. i think i finihsed up at the -7.00db level on the subwoofers with the Onkyo sub set to about 3/4 volume level and the Klipsch subwoofer set to about 1/3 level. I would not have expected such a different volume setting difference. But the system does sound really good.
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post #2534 of 2544 Old 02-12-2015, 09:45 AM
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^^
As you learned the subs are not individually calibrated. The newer models with Audyssey MultEQ XT32 (eg. SR7008, SR7009) also feature Audyssey Sub EQ HT which can individually set level/delay of each sub. After running Audyssey, many owners find the bass a little too weak and so will bump up the Sub level in Manual Setup about 3-5db; however, if you like it as is, then so be it.

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post #2535 of 2544 Old 02-12-2015, 10:45 AM
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thks i will play around with it a little more, i listened for two hrs last night to music blurays/dvds and it sounded pretty good. my balancing of the two subs to each other was a little crude doing it by ear and vibrations to the hand placed on the subwoofer. i will look for some way to actually measure the test tone and continue on my journey. although i did not expect such a big discrepancy in the volume settings for the two subs. i can see where having an audyssey setup for the subs would be nice.
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post #2536 of 2544 Old 02-12-2015, 11:38 AM
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Being sure the two subs are playing at the same volume is critically important, otherwise the louder one completely masks the contribution of the quieter one and the quieter one's "contribution" to your overall room sound effectively becomes nil. 99% of internet buzz seems surprisingly ignorant of this. [Although this is of course not a problem for systems truly designed to calibrate for two subs, such as any receiver with Audyssey SubEQ HT, usually found on most XT32 receivers, since they specifically ping the two subs for this].


ONLY if the two subs are level matched, and that means the levels are tested by a microphone at the ear (and has zip to do with where the level knobs happen to be set, since differing room locations for the two subs' placement have profound consequences regarding the measured SPL) can one achieve proper results.


Luckily anyone with this SR7005 has a perfectly accurate way to measure this: Audyssey MultEQ XT, but you have to run it three times or so:


STEP 1. Run Audyssey with just Sub A in place and consider your sub level trim setting results to be the "target" you want to match Sub B to.


STEP 2. Then disconnect Sub A and instead run Audyssey with sub B alone. The results will then tell you how many dB louder or softer it is compared to sub A and hopefully you'll then have a feel for which direction you need to tweak sub B's rear panel level control until it will match whatever value Audyssey sets the trim level for sub A, by itself.


STEP 3. Keep running Audyssey for sub B. When Audyssey reports the exact same trim level reading [1 dB off is OK], for both A by itself and then B by itself, then you know they are truly level matched.


STEP 4. You finally run Audyssey one last time, but this time with both A and B both connected, acting in unison as if they were one, powerful sub. Audyssey will most likely reduce the trim level by 3 dB, or so, for the net result, compared to the value seen during the level matching procedure when you used only one sub at a time, and you are done.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #2537 of 2544 Old 02-12-2015, 01:37 PM
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thanks for that excellent write up. I wish I had come to that thoughtfully logical tuning method on my own.......some more home work tonight I see. It was fun last night after the house quieted down I found myself listening to a Neil Young performance on a DVD and dozing on the couch.....just like in college 40 yrs ago, jeez that makes me sound old.. tonight i think it will be Tom Petty...thks Bob
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post #2538 of 2544 Old 02-13-2015, 08:26 AM
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thanks everybody for the help. I purchased an inexpensive sound meter from a radio shack closing down and that got me close to matching the two subs. I used the test tone menu page to send out a signal to the two subs. I unplugged the RCA lead from one of the subs and the other sub had an on/off toggle switch. so i set up the sound meter on a tripod and measured the subs and kept alternating the adjusting between them until i got the readings close. they seemed to vary about 4.5db within any test of the individual sub. so i did this until they both had the same range. this was a fairly fast process. then i ran the audyssey set up as written below by m.zillch. this process was not fast since i have speakers for all the possible configurations and it pings them all, and it would have been too much effort to unplug all of the speakers. this took a while to balance since the first time the final reading of the set up gave me -12.db and it seemed to me that means i couldnt really tell where the level was. so i re balanced everything and wound up with a final individual sub rating of -3.5db and -4.5db on the audyessy channel level with a total combined reading of -9.5db. i then locked in the settings. after this for giggles and grins i then redid the channel level ping test for the subs with alternating turning them off and on. for what ever reason i measured the difference to be with a 3db range on the sound meter. thanks for all the help. bob


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......Luckily anyone with this SR7005 has a perfectly accurate way to measure this: Audyssey MultEQ XT, but you have to run it three times or so:


STEP 1. Run Audyssey with just Sub A in place and consider your sub level trim setting results to be the "target" you want to match Sub B to.


STEP 2. Then disconnect Sub A and instead run Audyssey with sub B alone. The results will then tell you how many dB louder or softer it is compared to sub A and hopefully you'll then have a feel for which direction you need to tweak sub B's rear panel level control until it will match whatever value Audyssey sets the trim level for sub A, by itself.


STEP 3. Keep running Audyssey for sub B. When Audyssey reports the exact same trim level reading [1 dB off is OK], for both A by itself and then B by itself, then you know they are truly level matched.


STEP 4. You finally run Audyssey one last time, but this time with both A and B both connected, acting in unison as if they were one, powerful sub. Audyssey will most likely reduce the trim level by 3 dB, or so, for the net result, compared to the value seen during the level matching procedure when you used only one sub at a time, and you are done.
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post #2539 of 2544 Unread Today, 10:57 AM
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SR7005 display shuts off

The latest development in my love/hate relationship with this AVR (more hate really) is that when I turn it on it's normal for a couple of seconds and then both displays shut off, the only light that remains on is the blue light around the circular mini display.

During the few seconds that it's still on, I tried turning both the input selection and volume knobs and it shuts off as soon as I turn it. Same deal, blue ring light remains on.

I figured a simple resetting ought to fix it, so I followed the steps to resetting to a t and once it was done resetting, but before I loaded my settings, it was normal but then I loaded my settings (memory) and the same problem was still there, which leaves me to believe that maybe it's a problem with the settings? But it just doesn't make sense... Push comes to shove I'll reset it, not run the memory load, set it up and run the audyssey again but I just don't want to do all that if at all possible. Thanks for any advice ahead of time.
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post #2540 of 2544 Unread Today, 11:14 AM
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For inputs which you have turned on "Pure Direct" it is normal for the displays to self extinguish after a couple of seconds. Is that it?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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For inputs which you have turned on "Pure Direct" it is normal for the displays to self extinguish after a couple of seconds. Is that it?
No that's not it. The receiver's display is going out period. Either by itself within a couple of seconds or right away if you touch ANY button on the receiver itself or the remote.
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I think then you need to do this sequence from the remote:
Menu, manual setup, option setup, display, change to "ON"
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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Quote:
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I think then you need to do this sequence from the remote:
Menu, manual setup, option setup, display, change to "ON"
That did it, thanks a million!

But did that setting just change on its own?

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post #2544 of 2544 Unread Today, 04:43 PM
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Completely inexplicably, I at times look at my front display to see that "Zone 2" has turned on, all by itself. The only thing I can think of is some neighbor, when the atmospheric conditions are just right, uses their RF remote to send such a command and my ir/rf repeater picks it up out of the air and transmits it to my setup...Either that or we are not alone! AREA 51 IS REAL. ROSWELL WAS A GOVERNMENT COVERUP. THE FBI IS MONITORING ALL OF OUR COMMUNIC
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