The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 148 - AVS Forum
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post #4411 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleHTGuy View Post

Yes, People with the issues, will post the most.

Wait, I thought you said you didn't have any issues.

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post #4412 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

to be clear, the discussion you quoted was about a BUG. What I was describing was NOT normal function.

The A100 should behave IDENTICALLY with your old 4810 in terms of menus / overlays. If it isn't, something is wrong. Have you turned "Video Convert" off??

I did for BD (my ps3) but it is on for tv...

it was the BD where it wont overlay.. screen goes black and then the menu comes up.. i lose the video when the menu shows.

I haven't tried for the other sources (that I can recall).

so when you are watching movies or TV and you bring up the menu.. it overlays on top of the video source for you?

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post #4413 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

out of curiosity, why are you not using DenonLink? What's the point of getting the "matching" player if you aren't using the proprietary connection format?

To be honest, I just haven't gotten around to testing this yet. I have some very nice interconnects and HDMI cables from my previous set up so just haven't been compelled to try out DenonLink yet. Besides I've been too busy auditioning a new center channel (Joseph Audio's Pulsar) and finally adding a sub (JL's Fathom) to my set up!

Maybe I'll have the time to play around with DenonLink this weekend and see how it compares to HDMI or analog. Thanks for reminding me about this, as I pretty much forgot about it.
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post #4414 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin View Post


Wait, I thought you said you didn't have any issues.

Oh, but I posted I did have a few scares/issues. One is that I had to do one hard power (Unplug) reset early on to get my net functions working. To me, this is not good. The second is I have always had problems with the Tivo Audio Drop. I can only solve this by outputting everything at 1080i out of my Tivo. I would prefer the 4311 do everything and accept the Tivo's "native". I had this problem with the 4810 as well and I believe this is the classic concern that is crazy documented everywhere. Other than these two things, the 4311 has been totally bulletproof. I have been very pleased with the HTPC connection in all programs, WMC, WMP, Arcsoft TMT 3.0, WMC Live TV via HD-Homerun, and of course plain old Win 7 audio out. In fact, there is very little comment regarding HTPC compatibility but the 4311 has been flawless. The 4810 had issue out of the box and required a number of firmware updates from both my Video Card manufacturer and Denon to play well together. I won't bore you but it was pretty bad to start. I even had to find some garage software maker who did some kind of hotfix for my projector and the 4810. BTW, it worked.

So, now I will probably come home to a burning pile of metal, plastic and silicon as I've said to others to lighten up. The Audio/Video Gods will repay me for my optimism....
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post #4415 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 10:37 AM
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Not sure if any1 had similar issues but when video is on 'auto' (output to 2 displays) there is no display to 2nd HDMI output which is connected to my Panasonic plasma 50ps60.

1st HDMI is panasonic projector which is also connected but switched off.
I believe auto displays on both and/or which ever is connected at that time.

Am I doing something wrong or 4311 is designed this way ?
Every single time I have to manually set the HDMI output to monitor2 and this sometimes doesnt work meaning TV still outputs no signal.

Also once it so happened that there was display .. but no OSD on second output. wth ?
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post #4416 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Babel_Fish View Post

I did for BD (my ps3) but it is on for tv...

it was the BD where it wont overlay.. screen goes black and then the menu comes up.. i lose the video when the menu shows.

when you turn off Video Convert, you cannot overlay any graphics. So what you are experiencing is "by design" and correct behavior.

turn Video Convert back on if you want to overlay volumes/GUI on the BD. If you don't want the scaler touching anything, just turn i/p scaler OFF.

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post #4417 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

when you turn off Video Convert, you cannot overlay any graphics. So what you are experiencing is "by design" and correct behavior.

turn Video Convert back on if you want to overlay volumes/GUI on the BD. If you don't want the scaler touching anything, just turn i/p scaler OFF.

okay.. I will change that when I get home.. what is the difference between IP scaler and Video Convert?

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post #4418 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

first off, it's baTpig

Sorry! I realized it after I hit the submit reply button


Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

it's the difference between accessing a menu vs. a discrete command.

if you hit "CH Level", it takes you to the full menu where you can bounce around and change any channel you want.

if you use the discrete command, it will directly change the volume of a given speaker without opening up the menu.

This was a silly question of mine. When I tried 'CH Level' some days ago, I could only see F/L and subwoofer on the 4311 menu, so I was thinking, how can you have discrete codes for other speakers that aren't showing in the 4311 menu? I just tried again and could see all the speakers can be adjusted. Not sure why I couldn't see them before.

Thanks for all your other answers. really appreciated.
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post #4419 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 12:39 PM
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I have an A 100 that is not diplaying any of the issues of sone of the other"s having on this thread. I have ran this unit for hundreds of hours and use no fans either. I installed it in an old Southwestern chest and used metal shelfs with precut holes in it (some what like diamond plateing but thinner) so air flow comes up and out the back where I cut the back out for Banana plug clearance. The only problem I have so far is getting Audyssey to make my Klipsch KLF-30"s small which are FR and FL. Also the cross overs seemed to be a little high at120 Hz and 80Hz on F wides and side surrounds and rear surounds. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to make the fronts small? Any help would be greatly appreciated. All my speakers are Klipsch
fronts = KLF-30's
Front wides = RB-75's
Side surrounnds = KSP S6's
Rear surounds = RS-7's
Center = RC-7
Sub = KSW-200 (SVS PB-13 Ultra's X 2 on back order)

Bob
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post #4420 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Babel_Fish View Post

I re-ran audyssey and I am still not liking how it sounds. the highs seem really bright.. i am not sure what is the difference. maybe I will rerun audyssey with the blinds up.. who knows. lol I have honeycomb blinds and they kindof act like a sound trap/room treatments but it just doesn't sound right.. even my wife noticed that it doesn't sound right... now I know that I am not insane lol..

I have adjusted the bass and I think I am good there.. but the results of audyssey I dont like.. it put my center channel at -3.5 and left and right at 0... made the L/R very loud and vocal light.. normally I like the results of audyseey but for some reason I am not getting good results.. anyone else having/had problems running this version of audyssey?

When I had my 4311 unit, I am waiting for a replacement, I noticed the same thing the highs were very bright (not right). The voices on the center channel seemed to have no bass, I had to turn down the center to make voices sound "close to normal".

I am back to using my 3803, self tuned with the same speakers, and it sounds great!
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post #4421 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kee68 View Post

I have an A 100 that is not diplaying any of the issues of sone of the other"s having on this thread. I have ran this unit for hundreds of hours and use no fans either. I installed it in an old Southwestern chest and used metal shelfs with precut holes in it (some what like diamond plateing but thinner) so air flow comes up and out the back where I cut the back out for Banana plug clearance. The only problem I have so far is getting Audyssey to make my Klipsch KLF-30"s small which are FR and FL. Also the cross overs seemed to be a little high at120 Hz and 80Hz on F wides and side surrounds and rear surounds. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to make the fronts small? Any help would be greatly appreciated. All my speakers are Klipsch
fronts = KLF-30's
Front wides = RB-75's
Side surrounnds = KSP S6's
Rear surounds = RS-7's
Center = RC-7
Sub = KSW-200 (SVS PB-13 Ultra's X 2 on back order)

Bob

AFAIK Audyssey will always set them to Large.. simply set them to Small after calibration.. that can be done through manual setup under speaker config I believe.

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post #4422 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

I believe I had this issue when I had my Oppo DBP-83SE as well with my 3311ci, it did not like being switch from HDMi to 2 ch analog. I was the first time I experience that with coming from a regular 83.


DJOel

First of all, I found golfugh's idea to turn off HDMI audio pretty good, but it didn't help. However, I was able to resolve this based on what you and others were saying and playing around more.

The circumstance under which it wasn't working is as follows: Instead of having to go a few levels deep into the menu to change the input mode (HDMI, analog, EXT.IN, or auto), I thought I was being smart by connecting the stereo analog audio cable from Oppo to an unused source stereo input (DVD) and I changed input mode to EXT. IN on another unused source type (DVR), so that I could change input mode between HDMI, analog stereo and EXT.IN just by selecting the corresponding source input. I don't understand the reason why, but it results in stop/start/stop/start... on the Oppo. So we have sound with a hickup if we choose to listen anolog stereo or EXT. IN.

It DOES work properly, however (and what bliss!), if you do the normal stuff:
1) use BD stereo IN on 4311 to connect the Oppo stereo OUT.
2) assign HDMI slot for the cable coming from the Oppo to BD
3) Just change input mode from within the BD source input menu to whatever you want to get to your Denon (DSD over HDMI, analog stereo, or multi-channel analog).

With the Harmony and batpig's command to toggle between input modes, this is OK for me, and I will delete DVD and DVR from the list of inputs, which will simplify things.

Hopefully the other dude on this thread who has the same problem reads this, because I think there's a good chance his problem is for the same reason.
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post #4423 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Babel_Fish View Post

okay.. I will change that when I get home.. what is the difference between IP scaler and Video Convert?

Video Convert = the global ON/OFF switch for the entire video section, including analog>digital conversion, GUI overlay, etc.

i/p scaler = a SUBSET of the video section, just controlling the scaling/deinterlacing functions (i.e. the ABT video chip)

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post #4424 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kee68 View Post

The only problem I have so far is getting Audyssey to make my Klipsch KLF-30"s small which are FR and FL.

Bob, it will never set them to small because they have too much bass response. As noted above, just manually set them to "small" after running Audyssey (Speaker Setup > Speaker Config) and then raise the crossover from the 40Hz default (Speaker Setup > Crossover Freq).

Quote:


Also the cross overs seemed to be a little high at120 Hz and 80Hz on F wides and side surrounds and rear surounds.

that's normal, not high at all. Audyssey is measuring what it measures so leave those as is.

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post #4425 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Video Convert = the global ON/OFF switch for the entire video section, including analog>digital conversion, GUI overlay, etc.

i/p scaler = a SUBSET of the video section, just controlling the scaling/deinterlacing functions (i.e. the ABT video chip)

What about video mode (game or movie), regardless of Video Convert, I can adjust these settings...
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post #4426 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 04:43 PM
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Yo. I've been hesitating from posting, mostly because soon as I do, I know I'll start to see problems - just FYI, I've had the 4311 for almost a month and no consistent issues. I got green menu corruption once. My setup is very basic (ps3, 4311, tv), and the 4311 sits on a shelf inside my well-ventilated closet. Plenty of hours on denon's internet radio, pandora, ps3mediaserver, blue rays, dvd's, etc. I came from no HT experience and computer speakers to this 7.2 system on a 65" plasma, it's pretty fargen cool. I kinda wish I could try out a wide setup, but my L&R speakers are already up high so I don't think it'd work. Ah, well. The how to train your dragon movie is simply amazing. I find myself pulling out old cds, too, to listen to music. My ears have slowly become accustomed to high quality speakers and the receiver now, very happy.

Last week while I was away, however, my gf was watching a few dvds an old sitcom using the ps3 as the source, and said she the sound kept turning off; switching away from and back to the ps3 source fixed the problem. When I came home from my trip, I checked it out - sure enough, audio loss would occur after about 10-20 minutes using any of the DVD's. I THINK they are plain stereo, but I cannot tell, doesn't say on the dvd (I'm really embarrassed to post which one.. *cough*cosby show*cough* don't judge her! ). Haven't seen it happy on anything else.

Other than that, I haven't had any issues. Just reporting. Hope there are solutions to the issues for everyone.
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post #4427 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 04:46 PM
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By the way, there was a post, cannot find it, where someone asked about why the sound would get "quieter" when using the "pure/direct" mode. I didn't see anyone respond. So here goes...

If you had either multieq enabled, your own curves, or dolby dynamic audio turned on, then it is behaving normally (at least, it does the same for me). The manual tells me that pure/direct bypasses the equalization curves. Hope that helps whoever you are
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post #4428 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 04:49 PM
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take a picture of your 4311 display when playing the DVD's that cause the dropouts

we can figure out what source/encoding from there
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post #4429 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 05:17 PM
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I've been putting this baby to work today, Pandora all day last night at least 4-5 hours..So how many hours of Pandora you get

DJoel
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post #4430 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Video Convert = the global ON/OFF switch for the entire video section, including analog>digital conversion, GUI overlay, etc.

i/p scaler = a SUBSET of the video section, just controlling the scaling/deinterlacing functions (i.e. the ABT video chip)

yep.. overlay is back and overlay volume is back

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post #4431 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 05:19 PM
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post #4432 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

I've been putting this baby to work today, Pandora all day last night at least 4-5 hours..So how many hours of Pandora you get

DJoel

do you have pandora one? if so it is unlimited.. its only $32 a year I believe for pandora one

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post #4433 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tephra View Post

What about video mode (game or movie), regardless of Video Convert, I can adjust these settings...

As previously noted Video Convert is a new option which appears to allow Denon to distinguish between video processing and video conversion. Presumably game mode reduces video processing (and latency) as well as audio latency although the manual is unclear.

It not discussed much and most people are probably unaware of or forget about it. I don't recall seeing it as a reason to step up from a xx10 model even though it clearly is one. It's also a source of glitches but that seems to have stopped after the 4311 firmware update.

Edit: Ah, okay so it doesn't reliably fix the 24Hz problem.
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post #4434 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djoel View Post

I've been putting this baby to work today, Pandora all day last night at least 4-5 hours..So how many hours of Pandora you get

DJoel

Currently, I believe there is no limit for dedicated devices, such as the 4311. PC's have Pandora limits. There is no limit on Pandora via Sonos. Anyone can correct me but I think you are going to be non-restricted for now.
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post #4435 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SeattleHTGuy View Post

Currently, I believe there is no limit for dedicated devices, such as the 4311. PC's have Pandora limits. There is no limit on Pandora via Sonos. Anyone can correct me but I think you are going to be non-restricted for now.

wow.. that is neat if that is true.. i got pandora one because I listen to pandora at work all day long.. I hit the 40 hours in one week lol..

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post #4436 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Babel_Fish View Post


wow.. that is neat if that is true.. i got pandora one because I listen to pandora at work all day long.. I hit the 40 hours in one week lol..

It is definitely true with the Sonos and Pandora has officially responded that with network devices there are no charges but I have neve e-mailed nor seen confirmation on Denon AVR's but do not immediately assume there is a limit. Now I've popped off I'll try and confirm.
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post #4437 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 06:27 PM
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I'm trying to connect a TV to the 2nd HDMI output (the first has a Panasonic projector). I haven't been able to figure out how to get the sound thru the TV. I did set the 'Audio HDMI out' option correclty in the menu (to TV), selected the right opton on the TV istelf (Sony 46HX800), turned on/off the HDMI control option (even though I have no interest in that), but still no luck (sound always comes through the speakers). Was anyone successful with a similar configuration?
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post #4438 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Limited to 40 free hours/month on Pandora.

Hm that's what I originally though, well I clocked it at 36 hours

Quote:
Originally Posted by Babel_Fish View Post

do you have pandora one? if so it is unlimited.. its only $32 a year I believe for pandora one

I gotta check on that, 32 bucks is a give away imo

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleHTGuy View Post

Currently, I believe there is no limit for dedicated devices, such as the 4311. PC's have Pandora limits. There is no limit on Pandora via Sonos. Anyone can correct me but I think you are going to be non-restricted for now.

Man that would be awesome if so.

DJoel
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post #4439 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Babel_Fish View Post

AFAIK Audyssey will always set them to Large..

It's not Audyssey that sets them that way. Denon is the one that's making the determination of setting then at large or small, not Audyssey.
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post #4440 of 23296 Old 12-01-2010, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnla View Post

It's not Audyssey that sets them that way. Denon is the one that's making the determination of setting then at large or small, not Audyssey.

ahh good to know

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Audyssey , Denon Avr 4311ci 9 2 Channel Network Multi Room Home Theater Receiver With Hdmi 1 4a , Denon Avr A100 100th Anniversary 9 2 140w , Denon
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