The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 819 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 07-23-2016, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The NET/USB GUI factory defaults to 30sec. It can be set to 10sec, OFF, Always on. Refer to p. 104 in your Owner's manual.

Still goes out after 30 seconds (checked with a timer shuts off in 30seconds)...... Seems I got into other screen presets, do I set screensaver to off or on if I want it to display all the time in USB.


BTW this is all done in Options, right ?

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Old 07-30-2016, 08:09 PM
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Need some assistance. I actually had this same problem 3 years ago and actually posted here about it, but I never revealed in my posts, nor did others with the same problem, the solution!! Basically when I turn my TV off and my projector on, the 4311 will automatically switch to the projector and vice versa. Now all of a sudden, when I switch the TV off and the projector on, the projector gets no HDMI signal. I just cant remember how I fixed this last time. Any ideas would be great. Thanks!
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:48 PM
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Need some assistance. I actually had this same problem 3 years ago and actually posted here about it, but I never revealed in my posts, nor did others with the same problem, the solution!! Basically when I turn my TV off and my projector on, the 4311 will automatically switch to the projector and vice versa. Now all of a sudden, when I switch the TV off and the projector on, the projector gets no HDMI signal. I just cant remember how I fixed this last time. Any ideas would be great. Thanks!
Try changing Monitor Out from "Auto" to "Monitor 2."

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Old 07-31-2016, 06:16 AM
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Lol, Funny thing is, I think youre the one that responded 3 yrs ago Smoothie. But why would that setting change on me? I had a power outage prior to all of this happening. What does that setting do exactly? Like last time, I can switch the HDMI cables of the TV and projector and everything works fine. But the 4311 just wont do the switching auotmatically when I turn off the TV and and turn on the projector. Previously, when Id turn of the TV, there is a brief silence of the audio while the receiver looks for another video input. Now, It doesnt do that.
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Old 08-19-2016, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post
Lol, Funny thing is, I think youre the one that responded 3 yrs ago Smoothie. But why would that setting change on me? I had a power outage prior to all of this happening. What does that setting do exactly? Like last time, I can switch the HDMI cables of the TV and projector and everything works fine. But the 4311 just wont do the switching auotmatically when I turn off the TV and and turn on the projector. Previously, when Id turn of the TV, there is a brief silence of the audio while the receiver looks for another video input. Now, It doesnt do that.
Sounds like one of the old mysterious hints might help (in case you haven't done it yet): Unplug all HDMI cables AND all power plugs from all respective devices. Then, turn all devices on once without their HDMI cables connected. Then remove power completely again and plug in all HDMI cables anew. Finally, power on all devices. Please tell us whether it worked or not.

…and now to something completely different!
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:35 PM
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Ok, I think I may have it figured out. I havent done what you suggested, yet. But I did switch out the HDMI from my TV and hook it to the projector. Worked fine. From what I can gather, the 50 ft HDMI to the projector is bad. But how? How can a stationary cable just stop working? I dont get it. I think someone addressed this here in this thread, but I cant recall if it was here or on another forum. To confirm, Ill have to go under the house and pull out the cable to the main room and see if it works with another source.
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:43 PM
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Ok, after further troubleshooting, the HDMI is fine. I got under the house pulled it all out and brought it in. I did a direct connect of the 50" HDMI from the projector to Apple TV. Worked fine. Did a direct from PS3 to projector, worked fine. Then, flipped back and forth from the 2 HDMI output lines on the 4311 with my TV, worked fine. The 4311 would detect me switching ports on back and switch the TV on. But, when I hook up the projector to one of those same HDMI outputs on the 4311, I get no switching. I in fact, a few times got an error message from the projector saying: NOT SUPPORTED H:67.89 V: 59.90
I still havent narrowed it down to the 4311 or the projector. But something is happening to the signal when I do the pass through on the 4311 out to the projector. Any ideas folks?
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:26 PM
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Can you dim the display?

I was trolling Craigs List and found a Denon 4311 listed

I really didnt need it...but was able to buy it for $180...
Works fine and included all the acc other than the original box
a couple of things
1. I do think it is the sonic equal to the 4520....which I own
2. I dont like the GUI as well...it has elements of some older Denons

But anyway..is there a way you can dim the AVR display?

I dont see a dimmer button on either of the remotes that came with the unit


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Old 08-21-2016, 08:27 AM
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A couple years ago my hdmi out went completely out, no problem, I changed to the second hdmi out, last night upon turning it on no picture, but sound is present. My projector on screen menu is showing up, but no video is being fed. I checked all the connections, any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post
..is there a way you can dim the AVR display?
Yes. Bright, Dim, Dark, Off options are buried in the menu.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigotis View Post
A couple years ago my hdmi out went completely out, no problem, I changed to the second hdmi out, last night upon turning it on no picture, but sound is present. My projector on screen menu is showing up, but no video is being fed. I checked all the connections, any ideas would be appreciated.
Try powering off and unplugging the AVR and devices connected to it for 10 minutes. Plug back in and power on as follows: PJ, wait 5 secs, AVR, wait 5 secs, source device. If using a BDP, ensure the Deep Color Output setting is OFF.

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Old 08-21-2016, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post
Ok, after further troubleshooting, the HDMI is fine. I got under the house pulled it all out and brought it in. I did a direct connect of the 50" HDMI from the projector to Apple TV. Worked fine. Did a direct from PS3 to projector, worked fine. Then, flipped back and forth from the 2 HDMI output lines on the 4311 with my TV, worked fine. The 4311 would detect me switching ports on back and switch the TV on. But, when I hook up the projector to one of those same HDMI outputs on the 4311, I get no switching. I in fact, a few times got an error message from the projector saying: NOT SUPPORTED H:67.89 V: 59.90
I still havent narrowed it down to the 4311 or the projector. But something is happening to the signal when I do the pass through on the 4311 out to the projector. Any ideas folks?
You may want to try adding an HDMI extender ---> https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_...seq=1&format=2

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Old 08-21-2016, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Try powering off and unplugging the AVR and devices connected to it for 10 minutes. Plug back in and power on as follows: PJ, wait 5 secs, AVR, wait 5 secs, source device. If using a BDP, ensure the Deep Color Output setting is OFF.
Thanks so much, no luck though. This week I'll play with it some more, perhaps another avr has bit the dust.
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Old 08-21-2016, 10:17 AM
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Yes. Bright, Dim, Dark, Off options are buried in the menu.
thanks yes...found it
Its also on page 105 of the owner's manual..

I had a little hick up yesterday..The first thing I did was a hard reset on the unit
When I tried to run Audyssey I kept getting error messages that said "speaker or microphone disconnected"
It would do this right after running the tones for the first channel...I tried three times

I grabbed another Audyssey mic...either from the 4520 or the 8801
Ran it again and it worked fine
Curiously the newer Audyssey mic seemed heavier than the one seller gave me with the 4311

Anyway..I put the unit through it paces watching The Maze Runner last night
I am VERY impressed for the $180 I spent for the 4311 to run a secondary system
In fact..I think its better sounding the Pioneer SC87 that I was using in that spot before

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Old 08-21-2016, 12:09 PM
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I am VERY impressed for the $180 I spent for the 4311 to run a secondary system
Mine's been a workhorse for 3.5 years. Don't forget to save your Audyssey run via the browser. For a while there were incompatible mics floating around; don't believe that's now as big an issue.

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Old 08-21-2016, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post
I was trolling Craigs List and found a Denon 4311 listed

I really didnt need it...but was able to buy it for $180...
Works fine and included all the acc other than the original box
a couple of things
1. I do think it is the sonic equal to the 4520....which I own
2. I dont like the GUI as well...it has elements of some older Denons

But anyway..is there a way you can dim the AVR display?

I dont see a dimmer button on either of the remotes that came with the unit


Warren
$180?? Youre kidding me? Thats a $2400 AVR new. Regardless if you need it, you could probably flip it on eBay for a profit.
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Old 08-21-2016, 02:28 PM
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Mine's been a workhorse for 3.5 years. Don't forget to save your Audyssey run via the browser. For a while there were incompatible mics floating around; don't believe that's now as big an issue.
yes...dont know about the mic the seller gave me
Its looked like the factory correct one...it had Denon stamped on it
But as I said before..it kept giving errors
I had 3-4 other Audyssey mics sitting around from one of the D&M or Onkyo/Integra products that had XT32
Used it and worked fine the first time
I did notice that the other mics I had felt "heavier"
I didnt even bother to check the model number on the mic the seller gave me
Its really no biggie considering everything

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$180?? Youre kidding me? Thats a $2400 AVR new. Regardless if you need it, you could probably flip it on eBay for a profit.
I think street was $1300-1500 for the 4311?...someone that bought one can probably speak to that

But..yes...I thought it was a good buy
Think I am going to keep it as it does a few things better than the Pioneer Elite AVR that was in that spot and I dont need ATMOs in that space

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Old 08-21-2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post
yes...dont know about the mic the seller gave me
Its looked like the factory correct one...it had Denon stamped on it
But as I said before..it kept giving errors
I had 3-4 other Audyssey mics sitting around from one of the D&M or Onkyo/Integra products that had XT32
Used it and worked fine the first time
I did notice that the other mics I had felt "heavier"
I didnt even bother to check the model number on the mic the seller gave me
Its really no biggie considering everything


I think street was $1300-1500 for the 4311?...someone that bought one can probably speak to that

But..yes...I thought it was a good buy
Think I am going to keep it as it does a few things better than the Pioneer Elite AVR that was in that spot and I dont need ATMOs in that space

Warren
Honestly, I cant recall what I paod for mine. I wanna say $1200, I just cant remember. The sticker when it came out was $2000 and I even saw some a bit more and some less. But still, to find that for $180 is a steal. Good find.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:54 AM
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I think street was $1300-1500 for the 4311?...someone that bought one can probably speak to that
Yep- I think mine was right at $1,500. Wish I could add some of the newer functionality my X2200W has, but otherwise still very satisfied with the unit... just the back of it is enough to frighten the uninitiated away



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Old 08-23-2016, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post
Honestly, I cant recall what I paod for mine. I wanna say $1200, I just cant remember. The sticker when it came out was $2000 and I even saw some a bit more and some less. But still, to find that for $180 is a steal. Good find.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejh2854 View Post
Yep- I think mine was right at $1,500. Wish I could add some of the newer functionality my X2200W has, but otherwise still very satisfied with the unit... just the back of it is enough to frighten the uninitiated away



.
looks like you guys paid more for the 4311 than I paid for the 4520

I think I paid $869 for a new Denon 4520 at Magnolia...plus I got the 6.25% back in reward zone points

Sonically..I would say the units are about the same...or I dont think I could pick one out in a DB test

personally..I like the looks and the menu system of the 4520 better

But for $180....both of those were a moot point and I could care less

Warren
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:31 AM
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Does anyone know what this setting does for the subwoofer, there's already a crossover setting, I'm a little confused...

Also what is everyone using for a setting or what is the default setting?

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Old 09-02-2016, 11:20 AM
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It's not a crossover, it's a separate low pass filter (LPF) that's ONLY for the dedicated LFE channel (the "point 1" in a 5.1 or 7.1 signal).

The subwoofer reproduces two things: (1) LFE content and (2) the redirected bass from other speakers which have crossovers. It combines these two inputs and that's what gets sent to the SW pre-outs.

So for example let's say you have all speakers set to small and set to 80Hz crossover. The subwoofer will get all bass below 80Hz redirected from those other speakers, and it will ALSO play back the .1 LFE channel on a multich soundtrack. The LFE channel only ever goes to the subwoofer.

So that setting controls the upper end filter for JUST the LFE portion. The crossovers you set on each speaker control the upper end that the sub gets from redirected bass, and the LFE LPF setting you are asking about controls it for the .1 channel.

Typically the advice is to just set it to 120Hz and forget about it.

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Old 09-03-2016, 02:46 PM
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Question...<br />
I have a 4311ci running 11.2 surround in the main room with zone 3 and zone 2 speakers directly connected to the avr.<br />
<br />
I have a desire to add a 4th zone and have a HK3490 ready to go. Outside of splitting off of either LR or Zone2/Zone3, what's the best way to feed the HK the same signal that the rest of the system is using?
Does zone2 and zone3 feed their preouts when the avr is powering those zones directly?
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:02 AM
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Question...<br />
I have a 4311ci running 11.2 surround in the main room with zone 3 and zone 2 speakers directly connected to the avr.<br />
<br />
I have a desire to add a 4th zone and have a HK3490 ready to go. Outside of splitting off of either LR or Zone2/Zone3, what's the best way to feed the HK the same signal that the rest of the system is using?
Does zone2 and zone3 feed their preouts when the avr is powering those zones directly?
1. As there are only 11 speaker posts, you really have a 7.2 + Zone 2 + Zone 3.
2. Yes.

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Old 09-04-2016, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
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1. As there are only 11 speaker posts, you really have a 7.2 + Zone 2 + Zone 3.
2. Yes.
1) no...I externally amp everything with an xpa5 and 3 upa2's. All 11 channels run off the preouts to the appropriate amps and I run DSX H+W.

I think I actually said the only speakers directly connected were z2 and z3.

2) perfect. I'll run off the preouts then.
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I'm hoping someone can help out, I've been using DL4 with my A100 and Denon 4010 for years now with no issues until a few months ago. A couple of months ago I started have audio dropouts about every 5 seconds with DL4. I disabled DL4 and just started using HDMI and that works like a charm, last week for the heck of it I switched DL4 back on and it worked just fine. The next time I tried the issue resurfaced. The 3 lights are on, DL4 is enabled as well as HDMI control. It's possible some other input was touched but just can't figure what it might be or what is causing the clock control issue.
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