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post #91 of 115 Old 09-28-2013, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by lmf22 View Post

I will probably try the little tubes in a couple of months. I want to get familiar with the new power tubes first.
Any recommendations for the three small tubes?
Depends.. If you like a warmer sound vintage Mullards (haven't tried the re-issue). More detail Telefunken - RFT - Gec. Which tubes are in your V70se now? I find the Sovtek 12ax7lps input to be very forward and quite detailed.

That being said it's all about total system synergy and your personal taste. I would also caution against using Eat KT88's and vintage Tesla's due to the higher plate voltage the Octave has (540V) for output tubes. I have been told even though those tubes are rated at 600V max they were optimally designed to run at 450V.
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post #92 of 115 Old 09-29-2013, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by OctaDyn_Dude View Post

Depends.. If you like a warmer sound vintage Mullards (haven't tried the re-issue). More detail Telefunken - RFT - Gec. Which tubes are in your V70se now? I find the Sovtek 12ax7lps input to be very forward and quite detailed.

That being said it's all about total system synergy and your personal taste. I would also caution against using Eat KT88's and vintage Tesla's due to the higher plate voltage the Octave has (540V) for output tubes. I have been told even though those tubes are rated at 600V max they were optimally designed to run at 450V.

I believe the the three small tubes are the stock ones that came with the V70SE (I bought it used so I cannot be sure). Two of the little tubes have a "M" logo on it but not sure what the manufacturer is. One of them is Sovtek.
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post #93 of 115 Old 09-04-2014, 12:35 PM
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Question

I have an Octave V70SE with Gold Lion KT88 tubes. One of them (in socket #4 ) broke last night; a little piece of plate fell off and the amp went into protection mode. It sucks because it's only 1 year old.

I'm ordering two more Gold Lion KT88 (one for replacement, one for spare). I'm wondering how I should place them:
1) Put one new tube in socket #4 socket; keep old tubes in sockets #1-3 ?
2) Put two new tubes in #3 and 4 (right channel)?
3) Put one new tube in left channel and one in right channel? (So it would be #1-old , #2-new , #3 -old, #4 new)?
Does it even matter?

Also, I'm upgrading the three driver tubes. I got one Gold Lion ECC83/12AX7 and two Mullard CV4024/12AT7/ECC81. This should be fun.
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post #94 of 115 Old 09-04-2014, 02:12 PM
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Personally I would just replace the one in socket 4 because the Octave is manual bias. But if it would make you feel better maybe replace both 3 & 4 and keep #3 for a spare.

The Mullard CV4024's are very warm sounding tubes which sound great with Dyn speakers.

Good Luck
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post #95 of 115 Old 09-04-2014, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by OctaDyn_Dude View Post
Personally I would just replace the one in socket 4 because the Octave is manual bias. But if it would make you feel better maybe replace both 3 & 4 and keep #3 for a spare.

The Mullard CV4024's are very warm sounding tubes which sound great with Dyn speakers.

Good Luck
Thanks for quick reply! Upscale Audio shipped the tubes today, so I can pick it up from UPS' customer center tomorrow morning.
I will go with what an experience user like yourself would do; replace the one in socket 4
I've read some great reviews about the Mullard CV4024, but not specifically with Dynaudio speakers. Glad to know they will work well with my speakers (Contour S3.4).
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post #96 of 115 Old 09-05-2014, 03:56 AM
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When I had the Dyn C1 sig's I loved the Mullard CV4024 and Telefunken 5965's especially with original Tung Sol 6550 solid black plates. I also liked the RCA 5751 triple mica black plate in place of the 12ax7 (another nice warm sound). I really hated the TS KT120's (very forward and in your face but punchy). Other Octave/Dynaudio owners agreed. Well that all changed when I upgraded to the Raidho D1's. Now the KT120's sound great and the Ei KT90 type 2 sounds the best. Honestly the Ei KT90's sound great with either speaker.
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post #97 of 115 Old 09-05-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by OctaDyn_Dude View Post
When I had the Dyn C1 sig's I loved the Mullard CV4024 and Telefunken 5965's especially with original Tung Sol 6550 solid black plates. I also liked the RCA 5751 triple mica black plate in place of the 12ax7 (another nice warm sound). I really hated the TS KT120's (very forward and in your face but punchy). Other Octave/Dynaudio owners agreed. Well that all changed when I upgraded to the Raidho D1's. Now the KT120's sound great and the Ei KT90 type 2 sounds the best. Honestly the Ei KT90's sound great with either speaker.
I will keep those in mind next time I feel like tube rolling

Another thing. I noticed the amp takes a while to warm up. I turn it on for about 30 minutes (without any music playing) and set the bias to all green. But after another 15-30 minutes (total 1 hour without music playing), the bias indicators would be at green/red or red. Should I then readjust the bias to all green? Should I just warm up for a hour before adjusting the bias?
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post #98 of 115 Old 09-05-2014, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by lmf22 View Post
I will keep those in mind next time I feel like tube rolling

Another thing. I noticed the amp takes a while to warm up. I turn it on for about 30 minutes (without any music playing) and set the bias to all green. But after another 15-30 minutes (total 1 hour without music playing), the bias indicators would be at green/red or red. Should I then readjust the bias to all green? Should I just warm up for a hour before adjusting the bias?
That is quite common. Again I would adjust them for all green and if they drift up to green/red or all red I would them back down to all green. Then check them again in a couple of hrs again. I've been told from Andreas (through Dynaudio) that all green if fine and will likely make the tubes last even longer. I've had tubes take up to 3 weeks to settle down. I've also seen tubes drop after a warmup.

That said I normally play music only after 2-3 min of warmup and that seems to accelerate the changes in bias. Playing music loud also seems to accelerate the process and sometimes causes the bias to change again. I would also recommend if you change tubes a lot like I do make sure the pins in the output tube sockets are tight. Loose pins can and will make the bias jump all over the place including protection mode. Goes to say make sure power is off and cooled down because the pin that has the plate voltage is 540V and the pin with grid voltage is 310V.
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post #99 of 115 Old 09-21-2014, 08:01 PM
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Bad luck... I got a set of four Gold Lion KT88 a little more a year ago and in the past month I had two of them go out. (I have the Octave V70SE.) With the first one (tube #4 ), it was easy to spot what was wrong; a piece of metal from the bottom of the tube broke and jumped up to the top (clearly visible). But I'm not sure what's wrong with this one (tube #1 ). Right before the amp went into protection mode, there was a dark blue/purple flash. Anyone know that might cause that?

Since two of the tubes went out in a month, I'm hoping it's just bad luck with the set of four tubes that I got last year, and nothing wrong with the amp.
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post #100 of 115 Old 09-23-2014, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmf22 View Post
Bad luck... I got a set of four Gold Lion KT88 a little more a year ago and in the past month I had two of them go out. (I have the Octave V70SE.) With the first one (tube #4 ), it was easy to spot what was wrong; a piece of metal from the bottom of the tube broke and jumped up to the top (clearly visible). But I'm not sure what's wrong with this one (tube #1 ). Right before the amp went into protection mode, there was a dark blue/purple flash. Anyone know that might cause that?

Since two of the tubes went out in a month, I'm hoping it's just bad luck with the set of four tubes that I got last year, and nothing wrong with the amp.
I had some Sed tubes (both 6550 and KT88) that had a blue glow. I was told that wasn't a problem and common for Sed tubes. Sounds like the tube arced over. My first tube failure had a blue flash before protection mode. Since the second tube failure was in a different socket I don't believe the amp is at fault. Does the bias stay steady on all tubes especially after a couple of hours? Something I found a while back is if you are checking the bias take a pen or pencil and lightly tap each tube and see if the bias jumps around. If so you may have loose pins in that socket.
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post #101 of 115 Old 09-24-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by OctaDyn_Dude View Post
I had some Sed tubes (both 6550 and KT88) that had a blue glow. I was told that wasn't a problem and common for Sed tubes. Sounds like the tube arced over. My first tube failure had a blue flash before protection mode. Since the second tube failure was in a different socket I don't believe the amp is at fault. Does the bias stay steady on all tubes especially after a couple of hours? Something I found a while back is if you are checking the bias take a pen or pencil and lightly tap each tube and see if the bias jumps around. If so you may have loose pins in that socket.
The bias seems pretty stable. Every once awhile, after some louder than usual music, one or two tubes' bias might go up a little (green and dim red).
I tried tapping each tube while checking the bias; no changes. That's a good trick.
Thanks for the help!
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post #102 of 115 Old 09-24-2014, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by lmf22 View Post
The bias seems pretty stable. Every once awhile, after some louder than usual music, one or two tubes' bias might go up a little (green and dim red).
I tried tapping each tube while checking the bias; no changes. That's a good trick.
Thanks for the help!
Very normal. At least it isn't a socket problem. Honestly it sounds to me you had a couple of bad tubes.
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post #103 of 115 Old 09-25-2014, 09:59 AM
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Very normal. At least it isn't a socket problem. Honestly it sounds to me you had a couple of bad tubes.
I hope it is just bad tubes. But that means the other two tubes have a good chance of going bad soon (I ordered them at the same time last September, so they're probably from the same batch. I just went ahead and ordered two more as spares, just in case.

One last thing. If I listened at low volume and adjust bias to all green, then listened at higher volume and found that it went up (green and red), should I turn the bias down to all green? I assume the answer is yes, but just to make sure

Last edited by lmf22; 09-25-2014 at 10:08 AM. Reason: Added one more question.
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post #104 of 115 Old 09-25-2014, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by lmf22 View Post
I hope it is just bad tubes. But that means the other two tubes have a good chance of going bad soon (I ordered them at the same time last September, so they're probably from the same batch. I just went ahead and ordered two more as spares, just in case.

One last thing. If I listened at low volume and adjust bias to all green, then listened at higher volume and found that it went up (green and red), should I turn the bias down to all green? I assume the answer is yes, but just to make sure
Yes that's how I do it with most tubes. The only tubes I do push to green/red at louder volumes is the Ei KT90 and TS KT120's. All others I keep at all green per Andreas suggestion for longer tube life.
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post #105 of 115 Old 06-19-2015, 02:43 PM
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Hello all, I see this tread is quite old and a little left behind but I´m in the looks for one nice amp, and I´m thinking about the V70SE or another one from Octave or another brand, like a Macintosh.

My question is, how do you like your Octaves equipment and do you prefer it over Mac?

Kind regards and congrats to all, you have very nice set ups.

Marco
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post #106 of 115 Old 06-20-2015, 05:22 AM
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Hello all, I see this tread is quite old and a little left behind but I´m in the looks for one nice amp, and I´m thinking about the V70SE or another one from Octave or another brand, like a Macintosh.

My question is, how do you like your Octaves equipment and do you prefer it over Mac?

Kind regards and congrats to all, you have very nice set ups.

Marco
I've had the Octave V40 V70 and V110 in my home. All are great. I owned the V70se and later upgraded to the V110. With each step up there is a bit more 'control' in the sound. Depending on your speakers consider the black box or super black box. Lowers the noise floor and adds a bit more headroom. The Octave has many great features and is pretty bullet proof. Tube rolling is a lot of fun. With the right tubes you can change from warm sounding to very linear and everything in between . Honestly when I had the Dyn C1's I did not like the KT120's at all (punchy but too shouty for my taste). They were better with Raidho D1 and D2's but still not my cup of tea. My preference was the Ei KT90 type 2 or 3.

I did have a nice chat with the Octave/Dynaudio/T+A distributor at Axpona and Octave just lowered the retail price because of the drop in the Euro. Probably won't last very long. But he did tell me Andreas Hoffman is working on a KT150 integrated which will be a totally new design. The V110 is a modified V70se that has higher plate and grid voltages (switch selectable) among other things.

I've heard Mac's but in different rooms and equipment. For that reason it wouldn't be fair to comment although my local dealer sold some Dyn C1 Platinums to a customer that had the Mac 225 and he claimed they didn't have the punch the Octave has.

That said I did just trade my V110 w/black box for an Aavik U300 right after Axpona. At low to mid listening levels the V110 really held its own.

George
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post #107 of 115 Old 06-22-2015, 08:53 AM
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thank you very much
regards
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post #108 of 115 Old 02-11-2017, 09:01 PM
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I have a little mystery with Octave V40SE and Gold Lion KT88 tubes and wondering if any encountered anything similar. (Didn't want to start a new thread and thought I should post here.)

I have a set of Gold Lion KT88 in my Octave V70SE for about 2 years. My dad wanted to try them on his Octave V40SE. When I put the tubes into the V40SE, the bias indicator went to all Red after a few minutes of turning on the amp. (I did turn on bias setting knob all the way down before turning on the amp.) According to manual, this indicates faulty tubes. However, when I put the tubes back into my V70SE, it works fine. Any ideas what is going on?
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post #109 of 115 Old 02-12-2017, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lmf22 View Post
I have a little mystery with Octave V40SE and Gold Lion KT88 tubes and wondering if any encountered anything similar. (Didn't want to start a new thread and thought I should post here.)

I have a set of Gold Lion KT88 in my Octave V70SE for about 2 years. My dad wanted to try them on his Octave V40SE. When I put the tubes into the V40SE, the bias indicator went to all Red after a few minutes of turning on the amp. (I did turn on bias setting knob all the way down before turning on the amp.) According to manual, this indicates faulty tubes. However, when I put the tubes back into my V70SE, it works fine. Any ideas what is going on?
Yes I had that happen to me when I had the V70se. It turned out to be a loose pin in the tube socket. What seemed confusing to me was I could put a different tube in its place and not have the problem. But if I put that tube in a different socket it was fine. If you swap tubes a lot the pins in the socket will become loose. Also even though there is a standard for the pin thickness and length the pins can vary. After tightening the pins I got some socket savers from the tube monger
http://www.tubemonger.com/
The pins on the socket savers seemed to be thicker than most tubes I had and the socket pins were extremely tight because they were thicker. Just remember if you tighten the pins yourself there is 540V available for the anode pin and can take a while to bleed off.
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post #110 of 115 Old 02-12-2017, 07:49 AM
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Yes I had that happen to me when I had the V70se. It turned out to be a loose pin in the tube socket. What seemed confusing to me was I could put a different tube in its place and not have the problem. But if I put that tube in a different socket it was fine. If you swap tubes a lot the pins in the socket will become loose. Also even though there is a standard for the pin thickness and length the pins can vary. After tightening the pins I got some socket savers from the tube monger
http://www.tubemonger.com/
The pins on the socket savers seemed to be thicker than most tubes I had and the socket pins were extremely tight because they were thicker. Just remember if you tighten the pins yourself there is 540V available for the anode pin and can take a while to bleed off.
Thanks! I will check out the tube savers and look into checking pin tension and tightening them. This was the first time we changed tubes on the V40SE, so I'm not sure why the pins might be loose. I was also careful not to wiggle the tubes too much when removing and inserting them. I should have mentioned, what confused me even more was that all four tubes were like that. When I put the original tubes that came with the V40SE back in, everything was fine.
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post #111 of 115 Old 02-12-2017, 08:00 AM
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Thanks! I will check out the tube savers and look into checking pin tension and tightening them. This was the first time we changed tubes on the V40SE, so I'm not sure why the pins might be loose. I was also careful not to wiggle the tubes too much when removing and inserting them. I should have mentioned, what confused me even more was that all four tubes were like that. When I put the original tubes that came with the V40SE back in, everything was fine.
All 4 tubes does sound strange but when it happened to me the 2 left tubes shot up triggering the protection mode. It was the far left socket that had the loose pins. What also threw me for a loop was I could be listening for an hour or so before it happened. The other thing I had noticed is when I tapped the chassis I could see the bias jump and sometimes the left driver tube would arc.
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post #112 of 115 Old 02-21-2017, 07:48 PM
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All 4 tubes does sound strange but when it happened to me the 2 left tubes shot up triggering the protection mode. It was the far left socket that had the loose pins. What also threw me for a loop was I could be listening for an hour or so before it happened. The other thing I had noticed is when I tapped the chassis I could see the bias jump and sometimes the left driver tube would arc.
An update and interesting development. I found two 1-year-old Gold Lion tubes (it was in my V70SE for about a year before I got a new set) and tried it out on dad's V40SE. The V40SE went into protection mode immediately. The pins feel tight enough. Is it possible the driver tubes have compatibility issues with the power tubes?
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post #113 of 115 Old 02-22-2017, 03:35 AM
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An update and interesting development. I found two 1-year-old Gold Lion tubes (it was in my V70SE for about a year before I got a new set) and tried it out on dad's V40SE. The V40SE went into protection mode immediately. The pins feel tight enough. Is it possible the driver tubes have compatibility issues with the power tubes?
I would doubt the 'driver' tubes. The 12ax7 is the preamp tube and the 6922 is the driver which separates the + and - for the push pull output tubes. With your dads output tubes they don't go into protection. Is that correct? You are turning the bias all they way down before adding the GL's? When you put your dad's tube back is the bias adjustable (thinking maybe one of the bias pots may not be adjustable). Mick Tillman from Dynaudio had told be you can use the Octave to test a tube by only installing one tube in the far left socket and just powering it up in the bias mode. Then watch and adjust as a test. Have you powered up the V40 in the bias mode with the bias turned all the way down and just watch the bias without adjusting? If you see a tube position bias moving it would indicate a problem with that position. Also you should wait about 5 - 10 min before cycling power after changing tubes per Mick.
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post #114 of 115 Old 02-22-2017, 06:06 PM
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I would doubt the 'driver' tubes. The 12ax7 is the preamp tube and the 6922 is the driver which separates the + and - for the push pull output tubes. With your dads output tubes they don't go into protection. Is that correct? You are turning the bias all they way down before adding the GL's? When you put your dad's tube back is the bias adjustable (thinking maybe one of the bias pots may not be adjustable). Mick Tillman from Dynaudio had told be you can use the Octave to test a tube by only installing one tube in the far left socket and just powering it up in the bias mode. Then watch and adjust as a test. Have you powered up the V40 in the bias mode with the bias turned all the way down and just watch the bias without adjusting? If you see a tube position bias moving it would indicate a problem with that position. Also you should wait about 5 - 10 min before cycling power after changing tubes per Mick.
The amp is fine, running normal, and bias pots are adjustable with the original KT88 tubes that came with the V40SE (he bought it brand new a few years ago).

The amp had been off for a few hours before he took the original tubes out and installed the Gold Lion tubes. The bias pot for those two tubes were set at the lowest setting before powering on the amp. After the soft start light went off, the bias indicator lights went to red almost immediately, then the protection kicked in. The two tubes have been in storage for about 3 years and I haven't tested them on my V70SE, so maybe they have gone bad? I'll get them back this weekend and put them into my V70SE.

This weekend I will also bring the KT88 tubes that originally came with V70SE and put them into his V40SE and see what happens.

Thanks for the tip about putting one tube in the far left socket for testing.
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post #115 of 115 Old 02-23-2017, 02:16 PM
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The amp is fine, running normal, and bias pots are adjustable with the original KT88 tubes that came with the V40SE (he bought it brand new a few years ago).

The amp had been off for a few hours before he took the original tubes out and installed the Gold Lion tubes. The bias pot for those two tubes were set at the lowest setting before powering on the amp. After the soft start light went off, the bias indicator lights went to red almost immediately, then the protection kicked in. The two tubes have been in storage for about 3 years and I haven't tested them on my V70SE, so maybe they have gone bad? I'll get them back this weekend and put them into my V70SE.

This weekend I will also bring the KT88 tubes that originally came with V70SE and put them into his V40SE and see what happens.

Thanks for the tip about putting one tube in the far left socket for testing.
Well I'm out of ideas. From what you describe sure sounds like a loose pin 4 or 5 (bias grids). The bias grids are kept at a negative voltage and if loose or not making contact (meaning 0V) that would cause plate saturation resulting in protection mode.

Post back if you get it figured out
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