Denon AVR-4311CI Problems/Issues..Let's figure them out - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 73 Old 07-20-2013, 04:38 PM
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Being a factory refurbish, you first action should have been to immediately contact Denon and/or the supplier notifying them of the issue and asking for suggestions. You may have been given the answer straight away. Only then would you know what direction you should go. Having said that, I hope the box was cheap. Like buying 2nd-hand cars/anything, there is always the chance you have just bought someone else's problems.
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post #62 of 73 Old 06-16-2015, 04:57 PM
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I posted this on the Official Denon AVR-4311CI -AVR-A100 thread before I noticed this thread. Sorry for the duplication.
I have a Denon AVR-4311ci that has no sound. I can hear the relays respond after I turn iton. Even the headphone output does not produce any sound. Mute is NOT on. I am able to navigate to speaker setup andtried the test tone (no sound), I havechecked the fuses and none appear blown. The two heat sinks on either side of the transformer get warm when ithas been on for a while. The displayworks fine and displays on a tv when hooked up to HDMI monitor out (only one I tried) as well as program material on the Blu-ray disc. I can navigate through the menus and the unitwill stay on but it is totally without audio. I have performed a system reset(7 times) and network reset (2 times) with no change in performance. It has never shown a red ring around the power button, just green.
I would greatly appreciate any ideas as to what the problem couldbe and possible solutions I haven’t tried.
Thanks,
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post #63 of 73 Old 06-16-2015, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil44 View Post
I posted this on the Official Denon AVR-4311CI -AVR-A100 thread before I noticed this thread. Sorry for the duplication.
I have a Denon AVR-4311ci that has no sound. I can hear the relays respond after I turn iton. Even the headphone output does not produce any sound. Mute is NOT on. I am able to navigate to speaker setup andtried the test tone (no sound), I havechecked the fuses and none appear blown. The two heat sinks on either side of the transformer get warm when ithas been on for a while. The displayworks fine and displays on a tv when hooked up to HDMI monitor out (only one I tried) as well as program material on the Blu-ray disc. I can navigate through the menus and the unitwill stay on but it is totally without audio. I have performed a system reset(7 times) and network reset (2 times) with no change in performance. It has never shown a red ring around the power button, just green.
I would greatly appreciate any ideas as to what the problem couldbe and possible solutions I haven’t tried.
Thanks,
I think the only practical, logical and sensible thing to do is take it to a registered Denon service centre.
Ask for a quote before committing to any fixes. When getting repairs at a registered Denon service centre you sometimes get an upgrade thrown in, for free.

Any work costing under $300 (or even more) is probably worth it, considering how good this receiver is and I think still relevant in the home theatre world, even with the new X (Atmos) series now available.

Good luck.
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post #64 of 73 Old 07-06-2017, 06:37 AM
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Just wondering if anyone has had this problem. One of my HDMI outs no longer seems to work. I have a display and a projector hooked up to each output and one stopped switching/working. Is this a common occurance? Im kind of tired of this happening. Ive gone through 3 Onkyos and finally switched to a Denon 4311 and couldnt be happier. But now this. I have $400 25+ yr old Technics and other A/V receivers that still work great to this day, yet I finally make enough to afford this model and the damn things keep breaking. Just wondering if its something that a reset might correct. Is there a way, short of unhooking the brains of my system and taking to a repair shop, to determine if it truly is faulty?
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post #65 of 73 Old 07-06-2017, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post
Just wondering if anyone has had this problem. One of my HDMI outs no longer seems to work. I have a display and a projector hooked up to each output and one stopped switching/working. Is this a common occurance? Im kind of tired of this happening. Ive gone through 3 Onkyos and finally switched to a Denon 4311 and couldnt be happier. But now this. I have $400 25+ yr old Technics and other A/V receivers that still work great to this day, yet I finally make enough to afford this model and the damn things keep breaking. Just wondering if its something that a reset might correct. Is there a way, short of unhooking the brains of my system and taking to a repair shop, to determine if it truly is faulty?
Your 25 year old Technics doesn't feature HDMI jacks which can be very sensitive to voltage surges (eg. during storms). Try swapping the HDMI cables to each display to confirm the issue is the HDMI jack and not a cable or signal strength issue. If confirmed to be a jack issue, a microprocessor reset is unlikely to resolve the issue but certainly worth trying after first using the Web Control SAVE feature to save a copy of the config file to a PC.
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post #66 of 73 Old 07-06-2017, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Your 25 year old Technics doesn't feature HDMI jacks which can be very sensitive to voltage surges (eg. during storms). Try swapping the HDMI cables to each display to confirm the issue is the HDMI jack and not a cable or signal strength issue. If confirmed to be a jack issue, a microprocessor reset is unlikely to resolve the issue but certainly worth trying after first using the Web Control SAVE feature to save a copy of the config file to a PC.
Thanks for the reply. It is indeed the output and not the cable. I have this (https://www.amazon.com/Monster-Refer.../dp/B00004Y2ZF) hooked up to my system, basically because it was a spare my GF had. I was under the impression that it would help protect from storms and whatnot. Is saving the config file and transferring back to the unit pretty easy? I have no idea how to save it, but Ill figure it out. Whats the ballpark on repairing the output?
Also, is there a way to test the output? Other than hooking cables up?

Last edited by Daffypuck; 07-06-2017 at 07:47 AM.
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post #67 of 73 Old 07-06-2017, 07:49 AM
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Thanks for the reply. It is indeed the output and not the cable. I have this (https://www.amazon.com/Monster-Refer.../dp/B00004Y2ZF) hooked up to my system, basically because it was a spare my GF had. I was under the impression that it would help protect from storms and whatnot. Is saving the config file and transferring back to the unit pretty easy? I have no idea how to save it, but Ill figure it out. Whats the ballpark on repairing the output?
Also, is there a way to test the output? Other than hooking cables up?
Monster isn't always as protective as you would expect.

Unsure how much repair estimate would be .... however, you're likely better served purchasing an HDMI splitter instead of repair.
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post #68 of 73 Old 07-06-2017, 07:58 AM
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Monster isn't always as protective as you would expect.

Unsure how much repair estimate would be .... however, you're likely better served purchasing an HDMI splitter instead of repair.
Yeh, that was what I was thinking. Still though, it pisses me off that we pay this much for a nice piece of HIFI and its so fragile.
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post #69 of 73 Old 07-06-2017, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Monster isn't always as protective as you would expect.

Unsure how much repair estimate would be .... however, you're likely better served purchasing an HDMI splitter instead of repair.
Yeh, that was what I was thinking. Still though, it pisses me off that we pay this much for a nice piece of HIFI and its so fragile. Will this do the trick?https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5K1SG4...a-305845699829
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post #70 of 73 Old 07-06-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post
Yeh, that was what I was thinking. Still though, it pisses me off that we pay this much for a nice piece of HIFI and its so fragile. Will this do the trick?https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5K1SG4...a-305845699829

Most likely.
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post #71 of 73 Old 07-08-2017, 02:16 PM
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Most likely.
In the future, is there anyway to protect the sensitive parts of the rcvr from storms and power surges etc?
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post #72 of 73 Old 07-09-2017, 01:58 AM
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In the future, is there anyway to protect the sensitive parts of the rcvr from storms and power surges etc?
The Monster console should have done this, although you may also want to consider installing a "whole house" surge suppressor as well which can be purchased and installed by an electrician. Also best to ask him for a recommendation from the products he sells as to what is most effective.
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post #73 of 73 Old 07-09-2017, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post
In the future, is there anyway to protect the sensitive parts of the rcvr from storms and power surges etc?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The Monster console should have done this, although you may also want to consider installing a "whole house" surge suppressor as well which can be purchased and installed by an electrician. Also best to ask him for a recommendation from the products he sells as to what is most effective.
Agree on the whole house surge protector. Here is more detail on surges and your options.

Two levels of surge protection are best.

One level, the whole house surge protector, will lower surges that originate external from the house, such as lightening strikes, to between 600 volts and 1,000 volts. These external surges can be up to 10,000 volts or so. Closer lighting strikes will likely produce arcs in your service entrance equipment so you'll be out of luck. Such close strikes happen, but are not common unless you live in places such as Central Florida. In that case, consider lightening rods plus surge protection.

The type of whole house service protection you install is very dependent how your existing service entrance, that is electrical panel, is installed and its characteristics. The easiest install is to replace an existing 240V breaker with a combination surge protector/breaker. The existing breaker needs to occupy two full height slots in your panel for the new breaker to fit easily. The best place for this breaker is at the end of the panel where the service from the power company enters the panel. This is usually at the top. The potential issue with these breakers is that many panels use 1/2 height breakers so this breaker requires moving wires around to create two full sized slots or this breaker won't fit at all if the panel is full. Here is an example breaker from Eaton for use in Eaton panels (and relabeled panels sold by other companies). Both 30A and 50A 240 breakers are available. Consider EBay for lower prices. Similar breakers for entrance panels from other suppliers such as Square D are likely available.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-30-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

The next major option is to mount a separate surge protector external to your electrical panel. Here is an example from Eaton.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-Who...RA-1/204761136

There are two considerations with this device. The first is that access to your panel from the side, as shown in the product listing picture, is best. If you have a flush-mounted, outdoor panel this maybe impractical. The second issue is that lightening can be modeled as a 1MHz signal, that is 1,000,000Hz. At this frequency the inductance of the wires connecting the device to the bus in the panel becomes significant. The voltage may drop as much as 25V per inch. The means one of these devices connected with 12-inches of wires loses as much as 300V of protection since it "sees" a pulse 300V smaller. This may or may not be important. The combination surge protector/breakers described above attach directly to the bus so loss of protection due to wire length is less of an issue.

As JD notes, it's good to get an electrician involved in these installations. Electricity can injure or kill you. The above text gives you an idea of the options however.

The second level of power protection is typically provided by a surge protection power strip. Most all of these strips use metal oxide varistors (MOV's) for protection and can work very well. Always look for a strip which is UL listed. Low quality strips can start fires.

Most local protection is designed to reduce surges (let through voltage) to 330V or so. This means that connected equipment must handle surges at least at this level, perhaps higher depending on the protector. Damage comes from not only single high surges, but also from repeated small surges. Surges can be very high if not reduced by a whole house protector. Surges also come from equipment in the home such as a motor turning on or off, or devices controlled electronically such as many vacuum cleaner motors, refrigerator motors, ECM furnace motors, etc.

Often power strips or power conditioners with surge protection also provide filtering, typically using passive components such as capacitors and inductors. Since the impedance of the power circuits connected to the power strip, and the electrical characteristics of the devices connected to the power strip and other locations in the facility is not known, devices with filtering may cause unanticipated issues such a power spikes. Not all circuits cause these issues. This teardown in Tom's Hardware gives an example of an issue. You have to read a way into the piece; look for the pictures of the oscillliscope traces and associated description.

http://www.tomshardware.com/pictures...-down.html#s38

Ideally a local surge protector will indicate when its surge protection is no longer effective with a light. The MOV's used in these devices essentially wear out over time. Some protectors will shutdown when the protection is lost which may or may not be a good thing depending on the installation.

As with any topic theses days, much more information is available on surge protection on the Internet.
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