Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 205 - AVS Forum
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post #6121 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 03:13 AM
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Can I run ARC with longer cable lengths?
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post #6122 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolsen187 View Post

Can I run ARC with longer cable lengths?

Sure, why not?
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post #6123 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolsen187 View Post

Can I run ARC with longer cable lengths?

That's why they use serial cables, long lengths don't matter.
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post #6124 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 04:49 AM
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What about the mic cable. I only need 10 more feet
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post #6125 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolsen187 View Post

What about the mic cable. I only need 10 more feet

In practice, the USB specification limits the length of a cable between full speed devices to 5 meters (a little under 16 feet 5 inches). For a low speed device the limit is 3 meters (9 feet 10 inches).
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post #6126 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

The second post looks much better to me and is extending out to 120hz nicely unlike the first where it is dropping off around 80hz.

You didn't post your fron speaker graphs... but something there looks off... why are they set at 120? I would have expected they would be more like 60?

I'm not questioning why ARC picked 120, I'm sure that is the best solution, I'm more concerned with why you don't seem to have any low end... are your fronts small cube speakers? is there some sort of crossover for the low end that is disconnected? Unless both the woofers in your fronts are bad, I would expect they should be doing something below 120...

Thanks for the response. I actually uploaded the second graph last night. Looks better. The gramma isolation riser didn't seem to help. I think my sub is designed to be coupled with the floor anyway.

I don't know why arc is setting my mains to 120hz and center to 80hz. They are the exact same M&K S-150 speakers. They are designed to crossover at 80hz via THX standard. I don't believe there is anything wrong with my mid bass drivers. They're capable of going lower than 120hz.
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post #6127 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svphile View Post

Thanks for the response. I actually uploaded the second graph last night. Looks better. The gramma isolation riser didn't seem to help. I think my sub is designed to be coupled with the floor anyway.

I don't know why arc is setting my mains to 120hz and center to 80hz. They are the exact same M&K S-150 speakers. They are designed to crossover at 80hz via THX standard. I don't believe there is anything wrong with my mid bass drivers. They're capable of going lower than 120hz.

Can you post up the graphs for the fronts, or point us at the post where you previously posted them?

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post #6128 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 08:34 AM
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post #4399

not the same chart as now but basically the same as it relates to fronts.
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post #6129 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 08:37 AM
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sorry,
page 147
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post #6130 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svphile View Post

post #4399

not the same chart as now but basically the same as it relates to fronts.

Based on your charts:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=4399

the 120Hz makes sense. Your low end is definitely droping off before it gets to 80. You state your center is the same speaker... I'm guessing however that your center is positioned in a cabinate? Or up against a flat hard surface of some kind? And that your fronts are out in the open?

Can you push your fronts perhaps back against a wall and see if that helps to lift the low end a bit?

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post #6131 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 11:05 AM
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pretty good analysis. front three are all on the same st stands. However, my center sits below my plasma (closer to floor) directed up to listener position. My mains are about two feet higher and float in space a bit more. They're all on the same plain.

No real way to get better placement of mains.

Is it best to go with the sub measurment of 120hz if the mains are at 120hz?

If so, I'll need to lose the gramma riser. The gramma riser is making arc set the sub to 80hz.
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post #6132 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svphile View Post

pretty good analysis. front three are all on the same st stands. However, my center sits below my plasma (closer to floor) directed up to listener position. My mains are about two feet higher and float in space a bit more. They're all on the same plain.

No real way to get better placement of mains.

Is it best to go with the sub measurment of 120hz if the mains are at 120hz?

If so, I'll need to lose the gramma riser. The gramma riser is making arc set the sub to 80hz.

Yes, 120hz is the desired cutoff, even if your fronts were going lower.

I think that your center is benifiting from "boundary gain". This is the effect a wall creates when a low frequency speaker is placed close to the wall (or in your case the "wall below the speaker" you call a floor ). Each wall the speaker gets close to will "boost" the lower frequencies of the speaker. So currently your center is getting some boost from sitting on the floor. If you were to place your fronts on the floor, they would like wise get a similar boost... of course each wall you add boost more, so if you then took your mains (now hypothetically on the floor) and slid them back against the front wall, the boost would go up further... now slide them into a corner and again it would go up still even higher! as you know have essentially 3 "walls" all reflecting the bass.

Often on here you will see that we recommend people pull their speakers away from a wall... this is because they are suffering from to much boundary gain. In your case you are suffering from the oppisit problem! Speakers in free space not near any walls!

If you are trying to keep the mains in the same plain (which is a good practice and makes sense) so you cannot "slide them back to the front wall", can you perhaps slide them sideways up agains a side wall?

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post #6133 of 16588 Old 08-11-2011, 07:35 PM
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Just a quick plug for the new firmware. Pops, squeaks, and squeals appear to be a thing if the past for me and my 500. :-)
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post #6134 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 12:06 AM
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Hello,

I recently purchased an MRX700. To be honest I was looking at cheaper options because it was my first HT setup and was happy to start small and build up. However at the end of tax time there were specials and I got one for far cheaper than anticipated and hence took the plunge. I updated the firmware, ARC version etc. and then begun to set the thing up.

However, the fact that it is my first HT is making things a little harder - it sounds great to me but that probably doesn't mean it is set up right! I was just hoping somebody could tell me if anything looks very wrong and a suggestion to improve it?

I initially set it up without a sub so just 4 x bookshelves (2back/2 front) and the centre - Bookshelves are Usher s520 and Centre is the s525. Running ARC resulted in the top 2 pictures.

I then tried to integrate the subwoofer which is an REL T3 which connects to the same posts as the front speakers so it receives the same signals. That is via a Neutrik Speakon high level input. There is also a cable from the 1/LFE sub input to the sub output on the MRX 700.

Adding this affected the graphs somewhat but you can see the calculated ones below. The measured lines for the front speakers are clearly all over the place. When running ARC the sub is obviously going when the fronts are being measured, since it is connected to those.

Is there anything that stands out to anybody as something which needs to be fixed. Apologies for so many questions in my first post - I am a little out of my depth as you can tell. I know how highly rated the MRX series are which sort of swung me towards them simply due to a decent price I could get it for. However I am not entirely convinced I have the nous to get the best out of it, at least at the moment!
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post #6135 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 04:09 AM
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How is the 700 handling low ohm speakers ? When looking at weight at this unit it seems low, therefore i wonder.
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post #6136 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by SweElite View Post

How is the 700 handling low ohm speakers ? When looking at weight at this unit it seems low, therefore i wonder.

Does fine, this question has been asked dozens of times. Give a search on the thread for 4 ohm and you should see other people using the MRX's with them and the advices that has been handed out.

If your plan is to run 4 ohm, however, you may want to consider the 500/700 over the 300 for the added umph they have. Of course if you are not looking to drive your low ohm speakers with the internal amp, the 300 is fine (but then this question would also be silly in that case!).

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post #6137 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 07:20 AM
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What options do these speakers have to control the crossover on them to the woofers? You seem to have a hole between 100Hz and 200Hz which is not helping ARC determine how to handle the woofers that you attached causing ARC to think that your speakers are loosing performance below the 200Hz region of your speakers.

Also is there a volume or level adjustment on the woofers in the speakers to better match their output to the rest of the speaker? It looks like that level needs to be turned down substantially.

As for the Sub, it looks like you have filters engaged. Set all the filters to bypass or to their extreems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtMaster View Post

Hello,

I recently purchased an MRX700. To be honest I was looking at cheaper options because it was my first HT setup and was happy to start small and build up. However at the end of tax time there were specials and I got one for far cheaper than anticipated and hence took the plunge. I updated the firmware, ARC version etc. and then begun to set the thing up.

However, the fact that it is my first HT is making things a little harder - it sounds great to me but that probably doesn't mean it is set up right! I was just hoping somebody could tell me if anything looks very wrong and a suggestion to improve it?

I initially set it up without a sub so just 4 x bookshelves (2back/2 front) and the centre - Bookshelves are Usher s520 and Centre is the s525. Running ARC resulted in the top 2 pictures.

I then tried to integrate the subwoofer which is an REL T3 which connects to the same posts as the front speakers so it receives the same signals. That is via a Neutrik Speakon high level input. There is also a cable from the 1/LFE sub input to the sub output on the MRX 700.

Adding this affected the graphs somewhat but you can see the calculated ones below. The measured lines for the front speakers are clearly all over the place. When running ARC the sub is obviously going when the fronts are being measured, since it is connected to those.

Is there anything that stands out to anybody as something which needs to be fixed. Apologies for so many questions in my first post - I am a little out of my depth as you can tell. I know how highly rated the MRX series are which sort of swung me towards them simply due to a decent price I could get it for. However I am not entirely convinced I have the nous to get the best out of it, at least at the moment!


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post #6138 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 07:22 AM
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But theese are class a/b amps ?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Does fine, this question has been asked dozens of times. Give a search on the thread for 4 ohm and you should see other people using the MRX's with them and the advices that has been handed out.

If your plan is to run 4 ohm, however, you may want to consider the 500/700 over the 300 for the added umph they have. Of course if you are not looking to drive your low ohm speakers with the internal amp, the 300 is fine (but then this question would also be silly in that case!).

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post #6139 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

What options do these speakers have to control the crossover on them to the woofers? You seem to have a hole between 100Hz and 200Hz which is not helping ARC determine how to handle the woofers that you attached causing ARC to think that your speakers are loosing performance below the 200Hz region of your speakers.

Yes and one possible solution is to reverse the phase of the sub as this might problem might be due to cancellation.

However, by using such a sub, the OP loses the opportunity to have real bass management. The AVR cannot do it since the sub is on the main L/R channels and, thus, crossover options in the AVR disappear. So, I would lose those speaker-level connections and use only the "1/LFE sub input" connection. Then, the AVR will measure properly and manage the bass properly.

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post #6140 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

Yes and one possible solution is to reverse the phase of the sub as this might problem might be due to cancellation.

However, by using such a sub, the OP loses the opportunity to have real bass management. The AVR cannot do it since the sub is on the main L/R channels and, thus, crossover options in the AVR disappear. So, I would lose those speaker-level connections and use only the "1/LFE sub input" connection. Then, the AVR will measure properly and manage the bass properly.

Thanks Kal, Great advice!

I no little to nothing about these specific speakers so your insight helps a lot... From what you are suggesting ,there should be an option on the speakers to use the internal crossover with the main speaker wires from the MRX's front posts to both the mid/high section of the speakers and the low end(probably using bridge clips on the speaker?) or alternatively the speakers can be set up with the main section mid/high end running off of the Main speaker wires from the MRX and then you would disconnect the bridge clips and the low (sub) area of the speaker would then be set to use an internal amp and the LFE sub input? Is that correct?

If I'm understanding what you are saying correctly, it makes perfect sense. This will mean he will need a 'Y' splitter off of the MRX to feed the L speaker and R speaker LFE inputs which will be exactly like the rest of us that are running two subs off of the MRX's sub output today!

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post #6141 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Thanks Kal, Great advice!

I no little to nothing about these specific speakers so your insight helps a lot... From what you are suggesting ,there should be an option on the speakers to use the internal crossover with the main speaker wires from the MRX's front posts to both the mid/high section of the speakers and the low end(probably using bridge clips on the speaker?) or alternatively the speakers can be set up with the main section mid/high end running off of the Main speaker wires from the MRX and then you would disconnect the bridge clips and the low (sub) area of the speaker would then be set to use an internal amp and the LFE sub input? Is that correct?

If I'm understanding what you are saying correctly, it makes perfect sense. This will mean he will need a 'Y' splitter off of the MRX to feed the L speaker and R speaker LFE inputs which will be exactly like the rest of us that are running two subs off of the MRX's sub output today!

I do not understand your central paragraph. Can you insert some sentence structure for me?

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post #6142 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 03:56 PM
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Software

ARC Software v3.0.2
MRX 500 Software Upgrade v50.12 (230 volt)
MRX 500 Software Upgrade v50.12 (120 volt)
MRX Multimedia Upgrade v1.1.0
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post #6143 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post
I do not understand your central paragraph. Can you insert some sentence structure for me?
Thanks Kal, Great advice!

I no little to nothing about these specific speakers so your insight helps a lot...

From what you are suggesting ,there should be an option on the speakers to use the internal crossover bridging or to run a sperate LFE cable to the internal amp of the low end (sub).

From what was described by ArtMaster, it sounded as though his mid/high section was bridged to the the low end (sub) on the speaker via the Main speaker post of the MRX.

Based on what you wrote, it sounds like you are suggesing that the bridge can be removed and then the sub amp portion of his speakers can directly received the LFE signal from the MRX.

If this is the case, than that sounds like a great solution. He should note that he will need a 'Y' splitter off of the MRX's sub out to feed the L speaker and R speaker LFE inputs. This of course is not an unusual thing to do. It is exactly the same thing that any of us running two subs do today.

Sorry for the fast typing earlier... happens when I respond in the middle of the work day

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post #6144 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kosmo7479
Software

ARC Software v3.0.2
MRX 500 Software Upgrade v50.12 (230 volt)
MRX 500 Software Upgrade v50.12 (120 volt)
MRX Multimedia Upgrade v1.1.0
This was posted several days ago. The link is on the first page of the FAQs.
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post #6145 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 05:24 PM
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Thanks for the responses to my original post - I intend to sit down tonight and go through the system in more detail and hopefully resolve a few of the issues.

I noted one suggestion was to remove the high level input and just have the 1/LFE connection. This is a simple thing to try so will get onto that. Just in case it helps at all I have attached some information from the Subwoofer manual and Speaker specs.

Thanks for all the advice so far guys - I am a little over my head with a lot of this so it really is invaluable. Like I say, watching films at the moment sounds pretty good but that is because 2 weeks ago I was using the TV speakers! Obviously I would love to get as much out of the system as possible so this thread is a great source.
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post #6146 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 05:55 PM
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I recently got the 500 and I am loving it so far. The dealer did not have a 700 in stock. He told me to take the 500 home and use it for a month, but keep all the original packaging. If I decide I want to go to the 700, I can upgrade for the difference. I am enjoying the 500 a lot, but is the upgrade to the 700 worth it another $500

I am guessing not, which is why I went with the 500. The store had the 300 setup and I choose it over the Pioneer SC-37 which is their current flagship. Just looking for some opinoins, thanks!
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post #6147 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 06:04 PM
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I recently got the 500 and I am loving it so far. The dealer did not have a 700 in stock. He told me to take the 500 home and use it for a month, but keep all the original packaging. If I decide I want to go to the 700, I can upgrade for the difference. I am enjoying the 500 a lot, but is the upgrade to the 700 worth it another $500

I am guessing not, which is why I went with the 500. The store had the 300 setup and I choose it over the Pioneer SC-37 which is their current flagship. Just looking for some opinoins, thanks!
If you want HD radio or a little more power then take the 700. I suspect the 500 will be more than adequate.
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post #6148 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 06:14 PM
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HD radio does not interest me at all. Other than that, the power I have now is pretty good. I would rather start saving and upgrade my speakers. I got the 500 to replace my Nakamichi AV8, which I love but is too outdated now. For speakers I still have :

paradigm Phantoms v2
PDR8 sub
cc170 centre
atoms for rears
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post #6149 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
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So, I would lose those speaker-level connections and use only the "1/LFE sub input" connection. Then, the AVR will measure properly and manage the bass properly.
I just simply took that connection out and ran ARC which came back with this
LL
LL
LL
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post #6150 of 16588 Old 08-12-2011, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtMaster View Post
I just simply took that connection out and ran ARC which came back with this
Can you post your targets window as well?

Please, before you ask a question about...
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Anthem Mrx500 , Anthem Mrx300 , Anthem Mrx700 , Receivers Amplifiers , Component Amplifiers , 3d Hdtv , Speaker Systems
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