Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 289 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Receivers, Amps, and Processors > Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide
Tank_PD's Avatar Tank_PD 12:04 PM 01-15-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by VTGOLFER View Post

Perfect...thanks guys. As I see since I have the external amp, I do not need internet radio (worthless to me) and I have the Apple TV and a Olive on the way then the MRX300 should be more than adequate to handle the back surrounds and/or heights.

I will be mainly using the Anthem as a pre/pro and will be purchasing more external amps for the surrounds eventually. Does everyone agree the MRX 300 would be the best for my situation?

My current setup has an MRX300 as a pre/pro and an external amp. Did you notice any improvement with the XPA-3? At my listening levels I didn't notice much difference between the MRX300 and using the external amp. Made me wish I had just gone with the 700 to keep it simple and have a bit more power for 2-channel listening. I would save your money on external amps and put towards your next set of speakers.

saeyedoc's Avatar saeyedoc 12:15 PM 01-15-2012
Is it worth stepping up to the 500 for the USB port?

I'm thinking about making a move from my B&K Ref 20. I would keep my Parasound HCA-2205A and at most use 2 channels in the new unit for rear surrounds. Will be running my old Vandersteen 2C Fronts, Vienna Waltz CC and Vandy surrounds, Vandy sub. There are some mediocre in-ceiling speakers in the right place I can use as rear surrounds. It's in a big, non-dedicated family room with windows on one side, open to the living room on the other. I think it would really benefit from ARC or Audessy
Was initially just considering pre-pros, either the Onkyo 5509 when it comes out, or the equivalent Integra. The Anthem pre-pros are more than I want to spend, but the MRX line seems like a better move, even if not using the amps.
Onkyo, Denon, etc. look to have more bells and whistles, but I prefer to buy from smaller companies like Anthem. One main reason for my upgrade is to simplify things by using HDMI for everything, so not having analog MC ins is no big deal to me. Would also like to hook up Apple TV or Squeezebox to allow access to streaming Netflix and our itunes libraries.
DS-21's Avatar DS-21 02:09 PM 01-15-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post

Is it worth stepping up to the 500 for the USB port?

Seems to me that depends on if you think you'll use it.

For me, the answer was a clear no.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post

Will be running my old Vandersteen 2C Fronts, Vienna Waltz CC and Vandy surrounds, Vandy sub. There are some mediocre in-ceiling speakers in the right place I can use as rear surrounds.

Any chance you can fit a third Vandy 2C up front? That will likely give a bigger improvement than any other you can make. Including trading your B&K part for an Anthem one.

There are two types of front speaker setups: identical speakers, in identical orientations, at identical elevations; and flawed ones.
saeyedoc's Avatar saeyedoc 02:26 PM 01-15-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post

Any chance you can fit a third Vandy 2C up front? That will likely give a bigger improvement than any other you can make. Including trading your B&K part for an Anthem one.

There are two types of front speaker setups: identical speakers, in identical orientations, at identical elevations; and flawed ones.

No chance, I'm restricted to a 9 or 10" space between the mantle of the fireplace and the bottom edge of my plasma. Not and ideal setup. I have a Vandersteen CC, but it doesn't work in the space. Besides, it may be difficult to find one 1987 era 2C to really match the others.
I like the Waltz, I think it fits in well with the Vandersteens.
VTGOLFER's Avatar VTGOLFER 03:09 PM 01-15-2012
Hopefully my Denon AVR4810ci sells quickly because I'm going to order the Anthem MRX300 tomorrow. What is the best way to sell the Denon. I bought it from my local dealer and it still has a year left of warranty. I listed it on the Emotiva Emporium and I'm thinking about putting it on Audiogon but I know Audiogon has changed their website and some are not to pleased.

Thanks
dglozic's Avatar dglozic 08:56 PM 01-15-2012
OK, I think I have learned my room and ARC measurement process to claim this set as final at this time. One thing I have learned is to read the manual carefully. On page 28, it says:

"Ideally, the front speakers' high-frequency drivers should be at approximately the same height as the listener's ears but if they aren't and the result sounds dull or bright, microphone height will have to be adjusted and measurements repeated."

This turned out to be spot on - my last set of measurements was made after I adjusted the mic position to be EXACTLY my ear level when I am seated on the sofa (this turns to 37 1/2''). I have also left about 10'' clearence from the sofa and chair cushions. This has resulted in much smoother measurements with much less correction above 2kHz than before. In full range, L/R bass levels were left almost untouched (apart from correcting dips at 60Hz for L and 130Hz for L/R speaker).

Another thing I learned is to never question jayray - he kept hammering home the message that many people try to tweak ARC and eventually return to the original set of targets. And tweak I did - bass from auto to flat to 8th order back to flat. And frequency limit from 5000Hz to 200Hz to 1kHz to 2kHz (like Kal Rubinson when he reviewed MRX 700) and back to 5000Hz. I also played with room gain and always returned to whatever ARC computed. And of course, I didn't touch levels.

That does not mean I have nothing left to tweak. For example, the resulting sound is so clean and transparent that I managed to hear clear differences between connecting my HTPC via HDMI vs Musical Fidelity V-LINK + Toslink vs V-LINK + digital coaxial. In fact, I can hear subtle differences between two digital coaxial cables (both Monster Cable Video, both solid core with extensive shielding). I also hear differences when cable box is connected via Toslink vs HDMI audio. You see - there is always something to tweak .

One thing I may still do is put my surround speakers on taller stands. Right now they are on 24'' stands, which puts their tweeters at 33'', while L/R tweeters are at 40''. Putting them on a 30'' stand would even things out and help them clear the sofa back.

I am now going to enjoy MRX without playing with ARC for a while. If I can fault the sound at the moment, the only thing that comes to mind is that it is possible that my B&W 800 series speakers can use a bit more current and control that MRX can provide. It is definitely not an issue of power, just current and control. Again, it is possible that Kal Rubinson's combination (MRX + Bryston 9B SST) would offer more solidity in the bass and lower midrange. I may do it at some point in the future (I always wanted 9B SST , but I am definitely not desparate to do it right away. On the positive side, I have been told that B&W CM1 and 805S have similar crossover and should show family resemblance. My old Denon receiver left me wanting, but with MRX, front to back pans sound very natural and without any change in timbre (and I am thrilled that CM1 can nicely handle 60Hz crossover point).

So there it is. My levels are:

L: -1
C: -1
R: -1
LS: 1
RS: 1
Sub: -5
LL
LL
LL
LL
m_maloney's Avatar m_maloney 09:13 PM 01-15-2012
A couple of ARC questions. I'm a happy owner of a MRX 500 and had set up ARC previously for a 2.1 setup . I've just purchased a center channel and have been playing with speaker placement.

Since its a new speaker do I need to let it break in before ARC or does it not matter?

I move my speakers for critical listening but for casual listening and movies the speakers are moved back a bit. Should I run ARC for my most used but not ideal placement?
dglozic's Avatar dglozic 10:11 PM 01-15-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by m_maloney View Post

A couple of ARC questions. I'm a happy owner of a MRX 500 and had set up ARC previously for a 2.1 setup . I've just purchased a center channel and have been playing with speaker placement.

Since its a new speaker do I need to let it break in before ARC or does it not matter?

I move my speakers for critical listening but for casual listening and movies the speakers are moved back a bit. Should I run ARC for my most used but not ideal placement?

I know that there are break in sceptics but when it comes to mechanical things (or your shoes :-) break in is easy to understand - new material is losening a bit until it is 'run in'. Audiophiles tend to exaggerate this period - manufecturers usualy recommend a few hours of break in. After a few days the speaker should definitely be close to its final sound.

The issue with moving is that you are never sure whether you are hitting the original positions. Is it possible to mark the 'critical' and 'casual' locations for the speakers on the floor so that you can move them into the same two locations with accuracy? If so, you can take advantage of 'Music' and 'Movie' profile and run ARC for both locations. You will have to run twice as many microphone measurements - one set in the 'critical' and another in the 'casual' location. Otherwise, only run ARC for 'critical' and turn ARC off when in 'casual' location since the correction will be wrong at that point.

Note though that I would never bother moving the speakers - I would like to find one location where they can stay and be done with that.
rklpoon's Avatar rklpoon 10:34 PM 01-15-2012
Not sure if asked before, my friend in PRC uses Anthem MRX700(120volt)and has misplaced the ARC software disc. After a recent system rebuild of his computer, he cannot load the ARC software downloaded from the web(due to missing of two relevant data files?). Any suggestion/help please(already emailed to Tech support last week but no reply received as of today andwould like to seek other suggestion here)?
Tigger!'s Avatar Tigger! 10:52 PM 01-15-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by rklpoon View Post

Not sure if asked before, my friend in PRC uses Anthem MRX700(120volt)and has misplaced the ARC software disc. After a recent system rebuild of his computer, he cannot load the ARC software downloaded from the web(due to missing of two relevant data files?). Any suggestion/help please(already emailed to Tech support last week but no reply received as of today andwould like to seek other suggestion here)?

Email Anthem Support or Call them. They will need to have the serial number from your microphone. With a little luck they may be able to supply you with the origional calibration files for your mic.
hanser's Avatar hanser 03:07 AM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post


So in this graph, ARC is not correcting things up at 10k. The crossover has reduced everything at 24db per octave above the crossover point. The only resouce that ARC is using is the crossover which is there regardless. ARC is only applying EQ resources to the "Active" part of the speaker (ie up to the crossover point).

UPDATE: Andrew at Anthem did confirm that the ARC is not wasting any resources out beyond the crossover. So don't worry about that! All your resources are going where you would like them to

But why then disappears the hump above 200 Hz in my first graph (post 8564)?
Tigger!'s Avatar Tigger! 07:49 AM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by hanser View Post

But why then disappears the hump above 200 Hz in my first graph (post 8564)?

I'm not sure what you mean by "disappears".

However, the post you were quoting is reference to the graph in post 8595.

In this graph you were concerned that ARC was applying EQ resources above crossover up to 10k, which it is not.

In the graph in post 8564 it appears that the sub has its own filtering being applied, on the sub level, so the sub itself is rolling off everything after the crossover. In this graph there is a small "hump" at 200Hz around 60db, however the crossover has diminished this as it is a very small hump.

Note, some EQ resources maybe being assigned in the crossover area which 200Hz might include, but again they are not being used in say the 1k-10k range that is outside of the crossover and active region of your sub.

As you can see in both of the graphs linked above, however, ARC performed about the same level of EQ to your sub in the active region and both look very good after ARC.
Bob Pariseau's Avatar Bob Pariseau 08:07 AM 01-16-2012
The sub crossover itself applies all the way up. It is just a filter progressively attenuating output at a fixed rate per octave. NOTE: LFE content is handled specially with respect to the sub crossover filter so that you don't lose LFE content above the crossover.

The Room Correction resources, on the other hand, stop being applied above the sub's "cutoff" frequency -- actually rolling off in their application for a bit above that. So no Room Correction resources are being applied to the sub at 10KHz. But the sub Crossover filter basically squelches any possible output from the sub up there ANYWAY.
--Bob
rklpoon's Avatar rklpoon 08:37 AM 01-16-2012
Thank you. Done what you suggested and now waiting for the reply.
Crescent's Avatar Crescent 11:03 AM 01-16-2012
I've had my MRX300 which I'm using as a prepro for about six weeks now. It sounds pretty darn good. But man, it took a lot of tweaking to get there. Perhaps this will help some newbies.

General impressions - Out of the box, the Anthem was a very sibilant unit, both in the dealer's show room and in my room. Doing the "standard" setup with a Radio Shack SPL meter, the results were not as holographic as the results with the ARC setup. Treble had to be turned way down and that's probably what hurt the imaging, although I'm not an expert at such things. The menus were intuitive and easy to navigate.

Measuring - I think I measured the room a dozen times. I used input from this forum, thanks guys, to help me get it right. Using the correct mic height did mitigate the treble. I found it was better to err on the side of setting them a bit higher, than lower, assuming of course that perfection is impossible. I also read the section on the different measuring configurations. I have a riser and a back row, which is in use only when we have more than three guests, which isn't often these days. Most of the time it's just me down there. What I finally settled on, and was the best result for me, was to measure directly in front of the seating positions of the recliners, starting in the middle of course, and then directly behind them with the seat backs lowered, six positions total for three seats. Trying to incorporate the rear row had negative effects on the front row.

Component video switching - I have a CRT projector. Anthem left out it's component video switching customers who own blu-ray players as the unit does not allow the combination. I was also told this could not be fixed with firmware. I would rather have not had to use a separate component video switcher.

Tech support - I was not thrilled with the tech support. The person I was emailing practically called me a liar when I told him that my Sony S550 would output 720p via component and high resolution audio via HDMI at the same time. He insisted that they had four blu-ray players in their office and none of them would do that. But I was doing it via a component video switcher and the Anthem was acknowledging DTS HD Master Audio.

Software - The software, I thought was good. It allowed for me to be able to use standard ARC in movie mode and a/b experimental settings in music mode.

ARC - To me, in my room, ARC sounds too muddled in the area where it adds room gain. It sounded as if the hump was concealing other frequencies. So I conducted multiple experiments with crossover settings, subwoofer cutoffs and room gain levels. What I settled on, was a room gain of 1 (per BobAd) and then use whatever else ARC had figured out. I noticed that lowering the sub cutoff eliminated some of the bass on certain playback (LFE perhaps?). I was somewhat confused by this expecting that bass above 60 HZ to be routed to the other speakers.

OVerall this is a great sounding unit with almost holographic levels of imaging. I am very pleased. For this price, I'm not aware of anything that can touch it. But man, it's a lot of work. Someone encouraged me not to give up and he was right. For me, the bottom line is how does it sound? It passes with flying colors.

I'd like to thank everyone on this forum for such great advice and help. Having such experts like you, really convinced me to stick with it. Thanks again!
jayray's Avatar jayray 12:03 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crescent View Post

I've had my MRX300 which I'm using as a prepro for about six weeks now. It sounds pretty darn good. But man, it took a lot of tweaking to get there. Perhaps this will help some newbies.

General impressions - Out of the box, the Anthem was a very sibilant unit, both in the dealer's show room and in my room. Doing the "standard" setup with a Radio Shack SPL meter, the results were not as holographic as the results with the ARC setup. Treble had to be turned way down and that's probably what hurt the imaging, although I'm not an expert at such things. The menus were intuitive and easy to navigate.

Measuring - I think I measured the room a dozen times. I used input from this forum, thanks guys, to help me get it right. Using the correct mic height did mitigate the treble. I found it was better to err on the side of setting them a bit higher, than lower, assuming of course that perfection is impossible. I also read the section on the different measuring configurations. I have a riser and a back row, which is in use only when we have more than three guests, which isn't often these days. Most of the time it's just me down there. What I finally settled on, and was the best result for me, was to measure directly in front of the seating positions of the recliners, starting in the middle of course, and then directly behind them with the seat backs lowered, six positions total for three seats. Trying to incorporate the rear row had negative effects on the front row.

Component video switching - I have a CRT projector. Anthem left out it's component video switching customers who own blu-ray players as the unit does not allow the combination. I was also told this could not be fixed with firmware. I would rather have not had to use a separate component video switcher.

Tech support - I was not thrilled with the tech support. The person I was emailing practically called me a liar when I told him that my Sony S550 would output 720p via component and high resolution audio via HDMI at the same time. He insisted that they had four blu-ray players in their office and none of them would do that. But I was doing it via a component video switcher and the Anthem was acknowledging DTS HD Master Audio.

Software - The software, I thought was good. It allowed for me to be able to use standard ARC in movie mode and a/b experimental settings in music mode.

ARC - To me, in my room, ARC sounds too muddled in the area where it adds room gain. It sounded as if the hump was concealing other frequencies. So I conducted multiple experiments with crossover settings, subwoofer cutoffs and room gain levels. What I settled on, was a room gain of 1 (per BobAd) and then use whatever else ARC had figured out. I noticed that lowering the sub cutoff eliminated some of the bass on certain playback (LFE perhaps?). I was somewhat confused by this expecting that bass above 60 HZ to be routed to the other speakers.

OVerall this is a great sounding unit with almost holographic levels of imaging. I am very pleased. For this price, I'm not aware of anything that can touch it. But man, it's a lot of work. Someone encouraged me not to give up and he was right. For me, the bottom line is how does it sound? It passes with flying colors.

I'd like to thank everyone on this forum for such great advice and help. Having such experts like you, really convinced me to stick with it. Thanks again!

Glad it's working well, enjoy.
John
Tigger!'s Avatar Tigger! 12:17 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crescent View Post

... I noticed that lowering the sub cutoff eliminated some of the bass on certain playback (LFE perhaps?). I was somewhat confused by this expecting that bass above 60 HZ to be routed to the other speakers ...

The LFE track is only sent to the LFE output and LFE can go as high as 120Hz. The LFE track will not be steered elsewhere (such as the fronts). This is typical behavior of almost all receivers on the market, though a few like Anthems Signature series have special custom DAC's that can do some steering of the LFE track.

Of course, setting the cutoff of the LFE channel to 120Hz does not mean that is where the other cutoffs were set. If you set your fronts to 60Hz, they will still crossover to your sub at 60. Only the LFE track is being set to 120.

This is why we work so hard to get all the filtering on subs turned off and the MRX to naturally set the target for the sub to 120. We don't want you to go losing out on any LFE content when watching movies!
audit13's Avatar audit13 02:03 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

TKO1,

I hear ya. I suffered from the same pops and did a lot of the early leg work reporting them to Anthem, however, if you read the paragraph I wrote, following the one you quoted... the issues is a lot better for almost everyone (in fact I think you are the only one that I know of that is still finding them problematic).

I do still occasionally hear them, but they are very faint and as I stated, not bothersome at this point.

I don't think the pop should be something that most consumers need to be concerned about these days, but they are worth mentioning. I hope Anthem is able to get you were you are happy with them as well! I know when I was taking with my dealer, he mentioned a lot of the other receivers have the same problem but much more pronounced than the MRX.

I didn't notice any pops from the first time I powered up my 500 running the original firmware (50.12) that shipped with the unit. I just went back and tested my unit again with a redbook CD on a Sony bdp-s370 via hdmi. No audible pops could be heard when skipping forward or backward between tracks.

Do the pops depend on whether the audio is fed to the mrx via hdmi and optical?
atabea's Avatar atabea 02:35 PM 01-16-2012
Hi guys, AVForums in the UK just posted a review of the MRX700

http://www.avforums.com/review/Anthe...-Receiver.html

The reviewer said the following:

"With the Subwoofer channel set flat, but LFE ramped up a notch (or three), dialogue was stunningly natural, music immersive, whilst dynamic impacts were a truly sofa troubling experience. You're left in no doubt that the MRX has considerable dynamic reserves that again belie it's modest power rating."

What is he saying? How can you set the subwoofer to "flat" and yet "ramp" up the LFE? I didn't think it was a good idea to alter ARC settings after it is has been established and uploaded.

atabea
atabea's Avatar atabea 02:42 PM 01-16-2012
I was trying to listen to some music on a jump drive connected to the MRX and I could not get it to display the songs in the display window. Actually, for some reason, it only defaults/plays one song and I could not skip or go back--it just keeps repeating the same song. Any suggestions to resolve this??

thanks

atabea
m_maloney's Avatar m_maloney 02:46 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by dglozic View Post


I know that there are break in sceptics but when it comes to mechanical things (or your shoes :-) break in is easy to understand - new material is losening a bit until it is 'run in'. Audiophiles tend to exaggerate this period - manufecturers usualy recommend a few hours of break in. After a few days the speaker should definitely be close to its final sound.

The issue with moving is that you are never sure whether you are hitting the original positions. Is it possible to mark the 'critical' and 'casual' locations for the speakers on the floor so that you can move them into the same two locations with accuracy? If so, you can take advantage of 'Music' and 'Movie' profile and run ARC for both locations. You will have to run twice as many microphone measurements - one set in the 'critical' and another in the 'casual' location. Otherwise, only run ARC for 'critical' and turn ARC off when in 'casual' location since the correction will be wrong at that point.

Note though that I would never bother moving the speakers - I would like to find one location where they can stay and be done with that.

Sorry for the newbie questions but isn't ARC intended to correct less than ideal room issues? With two babies in the house I can't place my speakers in perfectly symmetrical places (not without the toddler tripping over them) .

Guess I'm hoping ARC will correct an asymmetrical speaker placement (one speaker on a fireplace and the other on hardwood floor so height is about 6" off and the distance from the center is off by 6 or 7 inches.). Is this too much for ARC to correct for ?
Tigger!'s Avatar Tigger! 02:59 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by audit13 View Post

I didn't notice any pops from the first time I powered up my 500 running the original firmware (50.12) that shipped with the unit. I just went back and tested my unit again with a redbook CD on a Sony bdp-s370 via hdmi. No audible pops could be heard when skipping forward or backward between tracks.

Do the pops depend on whether the audio is fed to the mrx via hdmi and optical?

I've never heard the pops on a redbook cd, however there was an issue early on where tracks were muted at the beging to eliminate garbage that gets sent when the codec changes, to much muting was implemented and lead to the start of the track being silenced. It sounds like the timing involved with TKO1's player may be very different than most players somehow and he needs more muting?

Normally the pops have been heard when a codec change clearly occures... for example, but in a DVD, usually the menu screen of the DVD will have music and the MRX will show it as a 2.0 source. Hit Play, when the movie starts, it will probably be a in suround sound and the MRX's screen will switch from 2.0 to 3/2. The pop is heard when the codec switches from 2.0 to 5.1.

Hence, if the pop is not very loud, usually this doesn't bother anyone as it is not in the middle of something. However, when skipping on a DVR (or DVD/BluRay player) you sometimes heard the pop as the player drops the audio codec during the skip operation. I also occasionally heard it when watching TVthrough my cable box if a comercial was 2.0 and the show was 5.1, you would hear it between the comercial ending and the show starting again.

In TKO1's case, it sounds like he is hearing something between tracks on a cd, which leads one to wonder if his CD player is for some reason droping the audio signal between tracks? I can't remember if TKO1 posted the details of the player he is using or how it is connected. But it seems this is not an issue for anyone else with redbook at this point.

What ever problem he is experiencing, it would only occure with a digitial input (not analog). If it is occuring with analog as well, than it is a problem with the player.
Tigger!'s Avatar Tigger! 03:05 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

Hi guys, AVForums in the UK just posted a review of the MRX700

http://www.avforums.com/review/Anthe...-Receiver.html

The reviewer said the following:

"With the Subwoofer channel set flat, but LFE ramped up a notch (or three), dialogue was stunningly natural, music immersive, whilst dynamic impacts were a truly sofa troubling experience. You're left in no doubt that the MRX has considerable dynamic reserves that again belie it's modest power rating."

What is he saying? How can you set the subwoofer to "flat" and yet "ramp" up the LFE? I didn't think it was a good idea to alter ARC settings after it is has been established and uploaded.

atabea

I think "whilst dynamic impacts were a truly sofa troubling experience" is meant in a good way

I think he was trying to state is, that dispite the ratings listed on the box, which would lead you to expect the MRX to be underpowered, the fact is that it appears in the real world to have more than enough power and head room to spare and that the LFE channel is capable of knocking everything you own off the shelves they are sitting on, including you sitting on the couch ... but I'm really reading between the lines a bit.

As for the LFE, in some cases, manually setting the sub to Flat is a good idea, if we see a chart that we believe would benifit, we always inform the user of how to make the change. If we did not recommended it to you, your sub is probably not a good candidate. Most are not.

In general you never want to change what ARC sets... in some case, there are exceptions for expert users. Flat is the most common exception as ARC is conservative in its use due to the fact that pushing a sub not designed to be pushed can do damage to the sub. Always better to be cautious than do damage
jayray's Avatar jayray 03:12 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

Hi guys, AVForums in the UK just posted a review of the MRX700

http://www.avforums.com/review/Anthe...-Receiver.html

The reviewer said the following:

"With the Subwoofer channel set flat, but LFE ramped up a notch (or three), dialogue was stunningly natural, music immersive, whilst dynamic impacts were a truly sofa troubling experience. You're left in no doubt that the MRX has considerable dynamic reserves that again belie it's modest power rating."

What is he saying? How can you set the subwoofer to "flat" and yet "ramp" up the LFE? I didn't think it was a good idea to alter ARC settings after it is has been established and uploaded.

atabea

Hard to know what he's saying. Set to flat, then don't touch anything. That's how to do it.
John
Tigger!'s Avatar Tigger! 03:15 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by m_maloney View Post

Sorry for the newbie questions but isn't ARC intended to correct less than ideal room issues? With two babies in the house I can't place my speakers in perfectly symmetrical places (not without the toddler tripping over them) .

Guess I'm hoping ARC will correct an asymmetrical speaker placement (one speaker on a fireplace and the other on hardwood floor so height is about 6" off and the distance from the center is off by 6 or 7 inches.). Is this too much for ARC to correct for ?

Many of us have less than ideal rooms we have to work with, you are not alone. ARC can work some pretty impressive "miracles" at times it seems, though it obviously can not overcome some things.

Obviously, the better your speakers, there placement and the room you have them in, the more of a chance ARC has.

I would give the two profile trick a try (with some good markings so you always get the speakers back in the exact same place). See what ARC can do with your two different locations.

I think you may be very happy, given your limited working environment.
Tigger!'s Avatar Tigger! 03:26 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

I was trying to listen to some music on a jump drive connected to the MRX and I could not get it to display the songs in the display window. Actually, for some reason, it only defaults/plays one song and I could not skip or go back--it just keeps repeating the same song. Any suggestions to resolve this??

thanks

atabea

No idea, but a few questions to begin the creative troubleshooting processes:

1) What is your MM (MultiMedia) firmware version?
2) How large a memory stick do you have?
3) What File System is the stick formatted with?
4) How many music files and directories are we taking?
5) How many folders deep is the music file you are playing?
6) How long are the file names of the music files you are playing?
7) What type of files are you playing? MP3's?
8) What is the bit rate of the files you are playing?
9) Are there other non music related files on the stick?
10) Do the files play on your laptop/desktop?
11) On screen do you see the id3 tags for the file you are playing such as track, artist, title etc?
12) Do you see the correct track length with the counter as the song plays?

On the MRX Media Screen:

13) Do you see one, counter clockwise, in a circle, arrow OR two counter clockwise arrows OR two arrows pointing to the right that cross each other?

You want the two arrows going in a circle. If you have just one the MRX is set to repeat the song it is on. Use either the green or blue button (can't remember which, it says on screen) to change the repeat mode. It can be a little slow to respond so press the button and wait 10 seconds before you press it again.

Do you have a BluRay or DVD player that is capable of playing music from a memory stick, such as an Oppo. If yes, can it see the directory and play the music (the Oppo probably has one of the most dynamic lists of capabilities in this area short of a computer).
jayray's Avatar jayray 05:13 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post


I think "whilst dynamic impacts were a truly sofa troubling experience" is meant in a good way

I think he was trying to state is, that dispite the ratings listed on the box, which would lead you to expect the MRX to be underpowered, the fact is that it appears in the real world to have more than enough power and head room to spare and that the LFE channel is capable of knocking everything you own off the shelves they are sitting on, including you sitting on the couch ... but I'm really reading between the lines a bit.

As for the LFE, in some cases, manually setting the sub to Flat is a good idea, if we see a chart that we believe would benifit, we always inform the user of how to make the change. If we did not recommended it to you, your sub is probably not a good candidate. Most are not.

In general you never want to change what ARC sets... in some case, there are exceptions for expert users. Flat is the most common exception as ARC is conservative in its use due to the fact that pushing a sub not designed to be pushed can do damage to the sub. Always better to be cautious than do damage

Actually a very good review. As we always say, ARC is exceptional and power is better than stated. This is why we own them
John
audit13's Avatar audit13 06:22 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

I've never heard the pops on a redbook cd, however there was an issue early on where tracks were muted at the beging to eliminate garbage that gets sent when the codec changes, to much muting was implemented and lead to the start of the track being silenced. It sounds like the timing involved with TKO1's player may be very different than most players somehow and he needs more muting?

Normally the pops have been heard when a codec change clearly occures... for example, but in a DVD, usually the menu screen of the DVD will have music and the MRX will show it as a 2.0 source. Hit Play, when the movie starts, it will probably be a in suround sound and the MRX's screen will switch from 2.0 to 3/2. The pop is heard when the codec switches from 2.0 to 5.1.

Hence, if the pop is not very loud, usually this doesn't bother anyone as it is not in the middle of something. However, when skipping on a DVR (or DVD/BluRay player) you sometimes heard the pop as the player drops the audio codec during the skip operation. I also occasionally heard it when watching TVthrough my cable box if a comercial was 2.0 and the show was 5.1, you would hear it between the comercial ending and the show starting again.

In TKO1's case, it sounds like he is hearing something between tracks on a cd, which leads one to wonder if his CD player is for some reason droping the audio signal between tracks? I can't remember if TKO1 posted the details of the player he is using or how it is connected. But it seems this is not an issue for anyone else with redbook at this point.

What ever problem he is experiencing, it would only occure with a digitial input (not analog). If it is occuring with analog as well, than it is a problem with the player.

I checked again with a couple of different CD audio discs and no pops so and the start of the track is not truncated or muted. This includes a commercially-pressed CD and a compilation CD-R I created.

I play movies using a Patriot Box Office. Since the Box Office doesn't support BR menus, I watch just the main movie so there would be no change in audio signals; that is, DD to TrueHD, DTS to DTS-HD MA, etc. I'll have to try this with my BR player to see what happens.
Tigger!'s Avatar Tigger! 08:20 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by audit13 View Post

I checked again with a couple of different CD audio discs and no pops so and the start of the track is not truncated or muted. This includes a commercially-pressed CD and a compilation CD-R I created.

I play movies using a Patriot Box Office. Since the Box Office doesn't support BR menus, I watch just the main movie so there would be no change in audio signals; that is, DD to TrueHD, DTS to DTS-HD MA, etc. I'll have to try this with my BR player to see what happens.

Audit13, why are you looking for this problem? It has been investigated and fixed, except the issue Anthem is investigating for TKO1. And very faintly for a few others. Many never even heard it...

Enjoy your MRX
audit13's Avatar audit13 10:03 PM 01-16-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Audit13, why are you looking for this problem? It has been investigated and fixed, except the issue Anthem is investigating for TKO1. And very faintly for a few others. Many never even heard it...

Enjoy your MRX

I don't use many functions or inputs on my receiver so I like to test things in my 500 when other users report an issue.

Believe me, I love the sound from my 500
Tags: Anthem Mrx500 , Anthem Mrx300 , Anthem Mrx700 , Receivers Amplifiers , Component Amplifiers , 3d Hdtv , Speaker Systems
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