Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 304 - AVS Forum
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post #9091 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

The only expected release is the 3D HDMI support. I think Anthem
promised a March Release. Even if you are not using 3D - at this
point you should get it with your purchase.

3D HDMI Support was provided over a year ago...

MRX 500/700 v50.04 main update (MRX 300 v50.01):
1. 3D capability according to HDMI v1.4a specification.

Or are you referring to something different?

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post #9092 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post


The only expected release is the 3D HDMI support. I think Anthem
promised a March Release. Even if you are not using 3D - at this
point you should get it with your purchase.

3D support is already present, as tigger has mentioned.
John

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post #9093 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

3D HDMI Support was provided over a year ago...

MRX 500/700 v50.04 main update (MRX 300 v50.01):
1. 3D capability according to HDMI v1.4a specification.

Or are you refering to something different?

I thought the SAME applied to the MRX as the D2v - SORRY.
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post #9094 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosh70 View Post

Quick question for you guys....I recently replaced the driver in my PB13 Ultra and have been running it for the last couple of weeks to break it in. I will re-run ARC again as I have dropped the center channel a couple of inches as well but one thing me and my boy have noticed is the LF's are very dependent on where you sit on the couch. Middle position is good, left seems a bit better and the right side (basically facing the sub) seems pretty non-existent.

It seems to be a result of ARC and the replacement of the driver so I'm hoping a re-run will cure this phenomenon. Should I be looking at anything else as well?

That's just a fact of life with one sub in most rooms. EQ can fix response at one spot, but at the cost of making it worse elsewhere.

The only answer is to use multiple subs to smooth out room modes. Three subs seems to be the point just before diminishing returns in most rooms, though with lots of placement flexibility some get really lucky with two.

Fortunately, the other subs needn't be beasts like the SVS Ultra. You can get by with much smaller/less powerful subs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skvinson View Post

Great. Using ARC to measure will be a big help. I didn't want to have to buy a mic and potentially sound card, etc. ...

The ARC mic will work just fine with FuzzMeasure Pro on Macs, and I assume not-a-Mac programs like HOLMimpulse too. Just plug it into the USB port. You can also get it calibrated by a NIST-certified lab, so that you have a correction file for it that works outside of the closed ARC system. But that's debatably necessary in the frequency region of interest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsil View Post

I forgot to ask how will does ARC do with 2 subs.

No autocorrection system handles multiple subs particularly well. But if you set up the subs manually (and I don't just mean matching their level and phase, but taking actual measurements and blending them sequentially with the mains for smoothest response) then you can run ARC and redo your sub EQ to correct the errors that ARC introduced.

ARC, like Audyssey and the other systems, is inherently flawed because it assumes the interaction of subs and mains in the crossover region is predictable. Problem is, it's not. That's why these systems always result in audibly poorer integration than a good manual calibration, where one runs sweeps through the mains and folds in each sub sequentially, adjusting the lowpass/level/phase of each sub until you have the smoothest possible response in that room.

So my advice is do that, then run ARC, then remeasure, and then fix whatever ARC (if anything) botched by playing with level/delay/highpass and any parametric EQ you have available. Yes, there are going to be those who will whine that doing something after ARC will ruin what ARC did. They are, simply speaking, wrong. It's just an EQ (overall a very good one, with this one notable flaw shared by all such systems), and if it does something wrong then the higher-fidelity approach is to fix it, not live with it and get used to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dodds View Post

Just as I was about to do a full reset prior to dragging it back to the dealer, I checked the settings one last time.***

It strikes me that all modern AVRs - not just Anthem's, and not Anthems more than anyone else's - need a "help" button with an in-unit troubleshooting menu. Something along the lines of what Harmony remotes do, or the network assistant in OSX.

These things are complicated.

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post #9095 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 08:51 AM
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I'm experiencing lockups all the time

I can't find the download link for the 50.12 firmware on Anthem's site so I can roll back.

Anyone have a link?

I'm using the MRX 700, EU 230V model.

/Martin
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post #9096 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayla View Post

I'm experiencing lockups all the time

I can't find the download link for the 50.12 firmware on Anthem's site so I can roll back.

Anyone have a link?

I'm using the MRX 700, EU 230V model.

Check your mailbox.
Did you report it to Anthem?
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post #9097 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sida View Post


Check your mailbox.
Did you report it to Anthem?

Thanks!

Yes I have reported it, happens mostly when changing to my Mac Mini (HDMI).

/Martin
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post #9098 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Your fronts and surronds are, as you say, satellites, no room changes or placement changes will change that... so no point in worrying about them. They simply do not have any low end. So your only alternative is to try and get a sub that will come up to meet where the satellites end.

Based on your graphs, it looks like satellites are pretty much bottomed out around 150Hz. So, we need to try and get your sub to fill in the gap. First step is to make sure all the filters on the sub are off or turned up as high as they will go... Next we can try moving the sub using "Quick Measure" to watch the subs response and see if we can flatten out its response a bit and get what is currently a mountian that continues to rise and then fall to flatten out a bit and extend higher up.

If you have an option of trying the sub along the front, somewhere near the center, this should help prevent the affects of vocals coming from the center from sounding like they are comming from the center and leave you still hearing your stereo image as desired.

Understood, will try it out. thanks.
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post #9099 of 16595 Old 02-14-2012, 03:45 PM
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I've owned an MRX500 for about a year now and I'm still amazed at the sound quality.

With the wife out of the house this past weekend, I spent some quality time with ARC. I thought I'd contribute as I haven't seen my setup here.

Here's my setup:
- Main: Def Tech BP7002
- Centre: Def Tech CLR2300
- In Ceiling rears: Def Tech DI6.5R

The room is 16'x24' with the tv+sound on one side and the couch bisecting the room at about 11'. So the listening area is about 16'x11' with the speakers on the 16' wall.

Notes:
- I used the quick measure feature to adjust my sub-volume on the back of the bp7002 to flatten the response.
- Using the quick measure I found that the sub-volume for my CLR2300 was stuck at the 100% level. I unplugged the centre for now until I can fix it.
- I initially had the LFE split and hooked up to both bp7002 and allowed ARC to measure and setup a subwoofer profile.
- After looking at the charts, it was clear that the subs in my bp7002 are not true subwoofers and it was better that I set the bp7002 to 'large' (with crossover at 30hz) and remove the sub (and LFE hookup).

Result:
- to my ears the sound is clearer and more precise.
- Dialogue is easier to understand and the surround effect is awesome.
- Bass is tight and present, but I'm going to be shopping for a subwoofer soon.
- This is a case where having the ARC measurements saved allowed me to play with different scenarios to get the most out of the system without needing to remeasure.

I've attached my final charts. You can still see the measured response from the sub hookup.

cheers,
klc
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post #9100 of 16595 Old 02-15-2012, 12:55 AM
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Hello,

Based on my readings about the Anthem MRX, I am considering to replace my Yamaha DSP Z11 used exclusively for HC as a pure processor amplified with an amplifier Sherbourn 7/200 by an Anthem MRX 300 (or higher if necessary but i understood that the preamp section is the same for all MRX).

In other words, do you believe that I will benefit from relatively significant improvements by replacing my Z11 by an anthem MRX 300 (gain resulting from the ARC compared to the YPAO) ?

What would be your advice, suggestions and comments on such a modification of my system

Many thanks in advance

Kind regards,

Frédéric

Ps: I have a pack Klipsch Ultra THX II (7.2) and I do not used the video section since i have a radiance lumagen directly connected between my oppo 93 and my JVC DLA X7.
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post #9101 of 16595 Old 02-15-2012, 06:25 AM
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After hearing this MRX500 last weekend at my dealer I now will have it in my house today Read most of this thread and cant wait to start using it.
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post #9102 of 16595 Old 02-15-2012, 08:56 AM
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Here are my results from MRX-300, if anyone can seen anything that can be improved further I'm all ears .







LL
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post #9103 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 03:02 AM
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Just picked up a 700. One question is whether running more sweeps, say from 5 to 10, increase ARC accuracy of a single location like the centre main seat?

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post #9104 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 06:01 AM
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In need of help with major issue.

I've had my MRX-300 hooked up for less then a week now and experiencing Video drop out. It usually happens when watching something off a USB Flash key from my Oppo-BDP93.

The Screen goes either black, white, green or even pink but the sound still plays. If I shut the receiver off and back on the Picture comes back on.

Are there any fixes to this issue or do I have a faulty receiver?

Thanks for the help.
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post #9105 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nr1416 View Post

In need of help with major issue.

I've had my MRX-300 hooked up for less then a week now and experiencing Video drop out. It usually happens when watching something off a USB Flash key from my Oppo-BDP93.

The Screen goes either black, white, green or even pink but the sound still plays. If I shut the receiver off and back on the Picture comes back on.

Are there any fixes to this issue or do I have a faulty receiver?

Thanks for the help.

I might be wrong but it could be your HDMI lead between Oppo and amp. Try different lead to see if that makes any difference.
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post #9106 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 06:29 AM
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Got a call yesterday afternoon that my MRX 300 was in. Spent hours taking apart my old component/digital audio mess and rearranging things to my liking.
Hit my first snag, I had everything hooked into a Furman power box working fine earlier that day. The Furman died on me when I tried to turn it back on after hooking up the new gear. After rearranging my power cords and using some strips I had around I got everything powered up ok. No problem getting HDMI to work with my cable box, but now I had a really loud ground loop hum. It's occuring both through my power amp and sub. It was not present before, so I think it's either the Anthem or the Furman was effectively eliminating it before.
I found that it's associated with a dimmer switch in the room, it's at it's minimum when the switch is off, but still intolerable. I found that by reducing the gain on my amp and cranking up the Anthem, it was tolerable for the rest of the night. I just turned off the sub and surrounds to minimize the distraction.
I'll have to spend some time troubleshooting it this weekend. It's a real pain having to run wires through a hole in the wall to get things from one shelf to another on a built in bookcase I use as my rack. I did break one HDMI cable I had going to an Oppo, the connector got bent so I need to be very careful.
I was considering taking my amp out of the equation, but my banana plugs are spaced too close together to utilitze with the speaker outputs on the Anthem. My amp weighs 80 pounds and is on a shelf, so it's a real pain to move around and I don't have a lot of play with some of the speaker leads.
I suppose removing or replacing the dimmer would help, but I don't want to mess with that myself. It's strange that the light switch has two dimmers, only one seems to be the problem, so it could be a bad switch. I vaguely recall a similar problem when I first hooked things up 6 years ago, it was solved by moving where some things were plugged in, that was before the dimmer was installed.
The other snag was none of the Anthem codes worked on my URC-R40, but it was easy to just program it using the learning mode.
I think I still have some work ahead of me before I even attempt to run ARC. Luckily I borrowed a laptop from work that has a serial connection, of course I already bought the keyspan adapter.
Any suggestions on fixing the ground loop?
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post #9107 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post

Got a call yesterday afternoon that my MRX 300 was in. Spent hours taking apart my old component/digital audio mess and rearranging things to my liking.
Hit my first snag, I had everything hooked into a Furman power box working fine earlier that day. The Furman died on me when I tried to turn it back on after hooking up the new gear. After rearranging my power cords and using some strips I had around I got everything powered up ok. No problem getting HDMI to work with my cable box, but now I had a really loud ground loop hum. It's occuring both through my power amp and sub. It was not present before, so I think it's either the Anthem or the Furman was effectively eliminating it before.
I found that it's associated with a dimmer switch in the room, it's at it's minimum when the switch is off, but still intolerable. I found that by reducing the gain on my amp and cranking up the Anthem, it was tolerable for the rest of the night. I just turned off the sub and surrounds to minimize the distraction.
I'll have to spend some time troubleshooting it this weekend. It's a real pain having to run wires through a hole in the wall to get things from one shelf to another on a built in bookcase I use as my rack. I did break one HDMI cable I had going to an Oppo, the connector got bent so I need to be very careful.
I was considering taking my amp out of the equation, but my banana plugs are spaced too close together to utilitze with the speaker outputs on the Anthem. My amp weighs 80 pounds and is on a shelf, so it's a real pain to move around and I don't have a lot of play with some of the speaker leads.
I suppose removing or replacing the dimmer would help, but I don't want to mess with that myself. It's strange that the light switch has two dimmers, only one seems to be the problem, so it could be a bad switch. I vaguely recall a similar problem when I first hooked things up 6 years ago, it was solved by moving where some things were plugged in, that was before the dimmer was installed.
The other snag was none of the Anthem codes worked on my URC-R40, but it was easy to just program it using the learning mode.
I think I still have some work ahead of me before I even attempt to run ARC. Luckily I borrowed a laptop from work that has a serial connection, of course I already bought the keyspan adapter.
Any suggestions on fixing the ground loop?

I don't think this is an issue with the MRX. In fact as you state it changes with the dimmer switch, it sounds like you have already isolated one issue. Most houses share one circuit for multiple rooms, as clearly your lights and wall outlet are already on the same circuit, I would be willing to bet the next couple of rooms around (including possibly above or below) are also on the same circuit. You may in fact fine several source to your hum and they may not all be in the same room.

I have a feeling the ground loop was there before hand and your line in filter was helping remove the issue. As turning the level down on the Power Amp and up on the MRX made things better, this would suggest the Power Amp is the one reproducing the grounding hum. You might try simply turning off the MRX and leaving the power amp on and seeing if the hum is still there... for further testing I would even disconnect the Power Amp from the MRX so you simply have the PowerAmp and your speakers and see if the hum is still there.

Keep in mind though, that ground loops are complicated, the MRX may simply act as a path between your Power Amp and another peice of equipment, the combined picture creating your issue...

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post #9108 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nr1416 View Post

In need of help with major issue.

I've had my MRX-300 hooked up for less then a week now and experiencing Video drop out. It usually happens when watching something off a USB Flash key from my Oppo-BDP93.

The Screen goes either black, white, green or even pink but the sound still plays. If I shut the receiver off and back on the Picture comes back on.

Are there any fixes to this issue or do I have a faulty receiver?

Thanks for the help.

I would check your HDMI cable. Also, is it reproducable? Does it always fail on the same videos in the same place?

What versions of firmware are you using on the Oppo and MRX. I had issue similar to this when switching videos, played off my network on my Oppo. The latest firmware releases from Oppo seem to have fixed the issue.

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post #9109 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

I don't think this is an issue with the MRX. In fact as you state it changes with the dimmer switch, it sounds like you have already isolated one issue. Most houses share one circuit for multiple rooms, as clearly your lights and wall outlet are already on the same circuit, I would be willing to bet the next couple of rooms around (including possibly above or below) are also on the same circuit. You may in fact fine several source to your hum and they may not all be in the same room.

I have a feeling the ground loop was there before hand and your line in filter was helping remove the issue. As turning the level down on the Power Amp and up on the MRX made things better, this would suggest the Power Amp is the one reproducing the grounding hum. You might try simply turning off the MRX and leaving the power amp on and seeing if the hum is still there... for further testing I would even disconnect the Power Amp from the MRX so you simply have the PowerAmp and your speakers and see if the hum is still there.

Keep in mind though, that ground loops are complicated, the MRX may simply act as a path between your Power Amp and another peice of equipment, the combined picture creating your issue...

If the amp is connected to the MRX and the MRX is off, I still get the hum. If I disconnect the pre-outs, it goes away. After doing some reading, it sounds like cable tv inputs are often the culprit. I'm going to see if disconnecting the cable tv makes it go away, if so, I'll try running it through an isolator on a power box.
If it was just the amp, I'd chalk it up to it, but the sub is having the same issues.
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post #9110 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breadvan View Post

Just picked up a 700. One question is whether running more sweeps, say from 5 to 10, increase ARC accuracy of a single location like the centre main seat?

More sweeps will actually dilute the accuracy of ARC at one location. Use the standard 5 sweeps and a pattern that concentrates on the center seat such as:

...Front of Room...

5---------------4
------------------
---3----1----2---

Or

-----5-----4-----
------------------
--3-----1-----2--

...Back of Room...

The first is the standard prefered by a lot of people. The second will concentrate more on a single focus point. Note, all mic positions need to be at least 2 feet from an other mic position. So mic position 5 should be at least 2 feet from position 3 and postion 1 and position 4 in the second diagram.

Introducing more sweeps simply averages the data over a larger area. If you have a large listening area and want to try and provide all locations with a decent experience then using more sampling locations across the larger seating area may be a good way to go. If you are focused only on one seat or a couple of close seats, you will simply be forcing those seats to have a more compromised calibration to compensate for the wider placed mic positions where no one is even sitting.

Remember ARC is trying to provide a good experience for everyone in the "listening area", to do this it has to sacrifice "the perfect listining experience" in one location a little bit to help the other locations out. The more locations, and the further away from the primary listeneing positions, the more ARC has to average the correction it applies to compensate fo locations that are farther away and often not idealy sypathetic to the primary position.

EDIT: See clarification in post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=9138 this example assumes a very simple single couch setup.

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post #9111 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post

If the amp is connected to the MRX and the MRX is off, I still get the hum. If I disconnect the pre-outs, it goes away. After doing some reading, it sounds like cable tv inputs are often the culprit. I'm going to see if disconnecting the cable tv makes it go away, if so, I'll try running it through an isolator on a power box.
If it was just the amp, I'd chalk it up to it, but the sub is having the same issues.

Sounds like you are on the right path. Something sounds like it is flowing through the MRX to get to your PowerAmp and Sub.

I admit your tight working quarters are not going to help... but usually the next step would be to disconnect everything, from the MRX except one amp, say the power amp, if you have no issues, then add the Sub... then one peice of equipment at a time until you find an issue. Though it is also possible that several peices of equipment may be adding together to create your issue or even independantly each creating an issue.

Eitherway, replace your dimmer, they are often the issue. And if possible, get your equipment on a seperate circuit from your lights and outlets in other rooms.

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post #9112 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 07:49 AM
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I've had my Anthem 300 for a couple weeks now. I wanted to finish my subs and let them break in a little before I ran ARC. Got that done now. Here are my graphs and targets. I thought I was going to have to EQ the sub via a BFD prior to running ARC, but it looks like ARC does all I need.

Thanks again for this thread... VERY helpful!
LL
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post #9113 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Sounds like you are on the right path. Something sounds like it is flowing through the MRX to get to your PowerAmp and Sub.

I admit your tight working quarters are not going to help... but usually the next step would be to disconnect everything, from the MRX except one amp, say the power amp, if you have no issues, then add the Sub... then one peice of equipment at a time until you find an issue. Though it is also possible that several peices of equipment may be adding together to create your issue or even independantly each creating an issue.

Eitherway, replace your dimmer, they are often the issue. And if possible, get your equipment on a seperate circuit from your lights and outlets in other rooms.

My dealer suggested a similar troubleshooting procedure. It's not difficult to get to the rear of the Anthem. There's just 2 HDMI cords hooked up to it (besides the pre-outs), so that won't take long. I'm hoping to get if figured out so I can run ARC this weekend.
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post #9114 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

I would check your HDMI cable. Also, is it reproducable? Does it always fail on the same videos in the same place?

What versions of firmware are you using on the Oppo and MRX. I had issue similar to this when switching videos, played off my network on my Oppo. The latest firmware releases from Oppo seem to have fixed the issue.

Yes its always in the same place pretty much.

I've tried different HDMI cables with no luck.

I'm running the current Firmware on my MRX and Oppo.
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post #9115 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by nr1416 View Post

Yes its always in the same place pretty much.

I've tried different HDMI cables with no luck.

I'm running the current Firmware on my MRX and Oppo.

This sounds more like an issue with the video in all likelyhood.

Does it do this with the MRX in "Through Mode"?

A few other things to try that might help, as it sounds like the video is causing an intermitant handshake to occure that is giving you the issue. Checkout the following and see if any of the info in them helps:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...o#post21297336

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...o#post21096862

Please, before you ask a question about...
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post #9116 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post

My dealer suggested a similar troubleshooting procedure. It's not difficult to get to the rear of the Anthem. There's just 2 HDMI cords hooked up to it (besides the pre-outs), so that won't take long. I'm hoping to get if figured out so I can run ARC this weekend.

Excellent! Keep in mind that the ground loop could even be between the Power Amp and the Sub amp... passing through the MRX.

If both the Power Amp and the Sub are three pronged, you can try sticking a three prong to two prong adapter on one of the amps power cords and see if that helps (do not connect the grounding cord of the two prong adapter to anything).

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post #9117 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

If both the Power Amp and the Sub are three pronged, you can try sticking a three prong to two prong adapter on one of the amps power cords and see if that helps (do not connect the grounding cord of the two prong adapter to anything).

That's on my list of things to try also. If that works, do you just leave it like that? There must be a reason they use a 3 prong plug.
Strangely, when I was trying to troubleshoot the failed Furman, their power cord is three pronged, but it looks like on the female end, one of the main prongs is a dummy that just pushes in a spring on the receiving end. I wonder what's up with that. It's been too long since my EE degree.
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post #9118 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

This sounds more like an issue with the video in all likelyhood.

Does it do this with the MRX in "Through Mode"?

A few other things to try that might help, as it sounds like the video is causing an intermitant handshake to occure that is giving you the issue. Checkout the following and see if any of the info in them helps:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...o#post21297336

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...o#post21096862

Sorry for my ignorance but what is "Through Mode"? should I have this on or off?

Thanks for the tips, I will try it out tonight.
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post #9119 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post

That's on my list of things to try also. If that works, do you just leave it like that? There must be a reason they use a 3 prong plug.
Strangely, when I was trying to troubleshoot the failed Furman, their power cord is three pronged, but it looks like on the female end, one of the main prongs is a dummy that just pushes in a spring on the receiving end. I wonder what's up with that. It's been too long since my EE degree.

Most well designed electronics should not need the ground, infact you'll notice that both the MRX and your Oppo don't have grounds. Grounds are typically all tied together back at the circuit breaker box, bring your whole house into the ground equation of your equipment. As your equipment already has a positive and a neutral lead for the power supply, no other alternate grounding path should be needed and as such your amp should not need the ground... unless of cours it has a fault of its own... which is always possible if something in the amp is failing.

You may recall from your electronics days that most circuit boards have a grounding plane or path of some kind, which is usually tied to the metal chassis of the equipment... the idea being to create a large single mass of metal that is all at a single potential that all of the rest of the electronics in the equipment can use as a reference point. In other words, a single large metal grounding plane that is large enough to keep all of the other grounding points at a similar potential to itself.

The grounding pin of your amp is then tied to chassis of your equipment... hence the grounding pin of your power amp is now connected to the ground of all the electronics inside your amp and inside of your house that use a grounding pin!

Now... my electronics days are a ways behind me as well... but as I recall your problem now is when the potential of your external ground changes quickly relative to the internal ground of the amp you suddenly start introducing different potentials throughout your whole amp circuit and the once stable reference is now no longer a reference but an issue to be dealt with! You have now ended up with different grounding potentials throughout the system and suddenly your electronics begin seeking alternate grouding routes... including over the rca leads from your amp to the MRX and out of the MRX to other equipment... like your sub! I think I'll stop there as my memory is getting stretched... but perhaps someone will pick up where I'm at or polish off the explenation better than I did

The long and the short of it is... the problem is the grounding pin often creates a second grounding path with a large potential of its own and if that new potential is changing rapidly it does not provide a nice steady constant grounding source for all of your electronics, which frequently leads to a hummm and your ground loop issues.

NOTE: I'm pretty sure Bob did a really nice right up in this thread a while ago on ground loops and what causes them.... you might give a search for "ground loop" and see what you can find

Edit: Ok, here are few of Bob's great posts. There is also a thread somewhere on the AVS forum for troubleshooting ground loop and Hum/Hiss issues that might be worth reading:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=8305

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=5756

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=8966

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=8964

Hum/Hiss FAQ sticky thread in the Audio Theory forum: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=322698

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post #9120 of 16595 Old 02-16-2012, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by skvinson View Post

I've had my Anthem 300 for a couple weeks now. I wanted to finish my subs and let them break in a little before I ran ARC. Got that done now. Here are my graphs and targets. I thought I was going to have to EQ the sub via a BFD prior to running ARC, but it looks like ARC does all I need.

Thanks again for this thread... VERY helpful!

Your main speakers are probably close to the wall behind them, as you're getting quite a bit of boundary gain. The biggest thing I notice, however, is that your center channel is rolling off starting at 1 kHz and dropping off like a rock below about 500 Hz. I would suspect that it is a 2 1/2 way or three way speaker and that the woofer that is responsible for the low end is not working very well. Perhaps it's a 2 1/2 way and the woofer that only runs for the bottom few octaves is out completely. You might want to check into that.

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