Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 319 - AVS Forum
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post #9541 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dglozic View Post

If you care about non-nonsense writeup about cables, Blue Jean Cable web site has a few about different kinds that is reasonable and shows you what matters and what does not. When it comes to speaker cables, the first priority is minimizing resistance, which you do by using as wide a wire (gauge) as practically possible. If you check B&W speaker specs, they always suggest keeping speaker wire resistance below 0.1ohm. You can Google for tables that show you relationship of wire gauge, length and total resistance. For example, to keep your 14 gauge wire below 0.1ohm you need to keep it shorter that 14'. Drop to 12 gauge and you can go up to 19' and so on.

Another parameter that is kept low in speaker cables is inductance. This is typically handled by twisting the pair of conductors. Twisting increases capacitance but most well engineered amplifiers will handle resonable cable capacitance without begining to oscillate or otherwise misbehave.

Conclusion: use the tables to compute the gauge that keeps your total speaker resistance below 0.1 ohm, and pick a twisted pair construction (many manufacturers do this). Avoid speaker wires where two conductors are placed in parallel to each other - they have larger inductance.

Disclosure: I use Audioquest Type 4 wire for my front speakers - four twisted LGC copper conductors with equivalent gauge of 15, 8' (two runs actually since I biwired all three speakers). This gives me total resistance of 0.0832ohm - i.e. <0.1 as suggested.

As for digital connection, I agree with Tigger that digital is digital but note that HDMI is known to have high levels of jitter. I don't know if MRX has sufficient jitter rejection, but one way to try is to connect your Panasonic via coaxial SPDIF cable (you can map it to another input, say CD). If CDs sound better through the CD input (coaxial SPDIF) than the Blu-Ray input (HDMI), use CD input for CDs and you are golden. If you cannot detect any difference, use HDMI input for all.

In my system, I have Arcam FMJ CD23 connected via Audioquest digital coaxial to MRX, and also Panasonic Blu-Ray via HDMI. To my ears, CDs sound better on Arcam. I am fully prepared to be ridiculed, but many high end companies prefer SPDIF to HDMI for high quality audio, so at least I am not alone. Just keep this in perspective - we are talking minute details that may or may not be noticeable in your room and system.

Nicely stated dglozic. I really enjoyed reading some of the articles that Blue Jeans Cable's site has on HDMI cables but have never checked out their articles on speaker wire. May have to zip over there and check those out!

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post #9542 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rwheelwright View Post

I was at a friends house on Saturday and he had major issues when using the blu-ray player. I couldn't get it to lock on to a resolution. The MRX kept going from 480P to 1080P. I'm not sure it is a player problem or an MRX problem. I did unplug and replug the cable at both ends but since I didn't have another cable or player I couldn't do much troubleshooting. This was with 50.19. Also, when I switched him to through mode, I couldn't get the onscreen menu to work correctly. When it would switch the picture was all distorted. I had to reboot the MRX to resolve the issue. I think you said you have a panasonic TV. He has what I think is a 65" Panasonic Plasma. I know it is a panasonic and plasma just not sure of the size.

update

It looks like the MRX 300 is working fine as I have used another TV with hdmi input as all all working as it should, instant switching for all inputs etc.

It seems like the weak link is the HD Fury or my Panel even tho this works fine using my old Denon reciever!....

As previously stated my Panel is 768 x 1024 would this be causing the problem with the MRX? is this resolution supported?

I am wondering if I got an hdmi input blade for the PH9 would this cure the problem? IF not its more money wasted.

edit I;ve decided to get the Input Board for my Panel TY-FB8HM

unless anybody has had a problem with this?

thanks all


I
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post #9543 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 06:51 AM
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Hi all, I am sure many of you have seen Rogers' web site before but for those who have not, here is the link, look for speakers and then then wire charts. As far as I am concerned this is the bible as far as speaker wire and many other sources of audio related info is concerned.



FYI, Roger was an engineer at McIntosh Laboratory and should know a thing or two about our hobby.

http://www.roger-russell.com/

Enjoy!

Chris
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post #9544 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayla View Post

I know you probably won't recommend me selling my MRX 700 in this thread, but I have downgraded my 7.1 setup to a 2.1 setup (and could use the money from selling the MRX 700)

I have thought about getting an Onkyo 609 (or the new 616) instead.

Do you think I'll be terribly disappointed with the Onkyo's music performance now that I'm used to the MRX 700?

My new speakers are two Anthony Gallo Diva Ti's and TR-1 subwoofer.

Thanks,

My personal opinion is you WILL notice a rather large difference in sound quality when comparing any of the MRX models to a 609. I speak from experience on this one. I have had no less than 8 different receivers in my home over the last 3 months. 4 of which were Onkyos going up to the 809. The MRX 300 just sounds better, stronger and leaner than any of the Onkyos or Yamaha models I tested.

I run KEF IQ speakers in a 5.1 setup and it became instantly clear that the MRX 300 I currently own sounds better. I would say the Onkyo's sounded compressed by comparison and if you are really particular about how your music sounds you WILL most likely miss your MRX.

I have always been a huge fan of the HK sound which I find much better to my ears than Onkyo. I was amazed at how much cleaner the MRX line sounds than the H/K models I tested. In fact, last night I was switching out an H/K 3650 with the MRX 300 and there is literally a night and day difference in how these two sound with the MRX just having a much better blending of all the speakers. (still like the warmth of H/K though)

If you are thinking about switching I highly recommend you demo whatever you are thinking about buying while you still own the MRX. I am still stunned at how much better the 300 sounds compared to everything I tested the last three months.
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post #9545 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 08:49 AM
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From reading the manual Dolby Volumn seems to be Anthem's version of Audyssey's Dynamic Volumn and Dynamic EQ combined. Based on my research it seems most agree Dynamic Volumn and Dolby Volumn are best left off except occassions such as when watching movies at night.

Audyssey's Dynamic EQ gets mostly favorable comments and seems to be a very desirable feature. If I understand the manual Anthem's appears you can set Dolby Volumn to off and there is a second control that seems to mimic what Dynamic EQ does.

I don't see many positive comments on Dolby Volumn by Anthem owners. Can Anthem be set to only act as a Dynamic EQ similar to Audyssey and if so is it as effective?

My basic understanding of the two is dolby volumn or Dynamic Volumn levels the sound for example in programs with loud commercials while Dynamic EQ compensates for low output of highs and lows because of low volumn and reduces this compensation as you increase the volumn to reference level in order to perceive a fuller sound at all volumn levels.

Is my understanding correct and does the Anthem perform Dynamic EQ as good as Audyssey?

Thanks,
Barry
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post #9546 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 10:19 AM
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also see your from peterborough also!

Howdy neighbor!

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post #9547 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 11:08 AM
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I got my MRX 700 yesterday. I sold my D2v, P5, S8, C5 and downgraded to Sig S6, C3 and MRX 700. I still use ADP3. Well I just connected the speakers and played some songs without ARC, adjusteing the speaker distances or the crossover (left it at 80hz default) and withoout properly adjusting the speaker levels and the subwoofer phase and polarity. Well, this MRX 700 is about 80% the same as the D2v and P5 I had. I am hoping it will be very close to D2v and P5 after I do ARC and other adjustments. This applies to my room. Maybe I did not use the full power of D2v and P5 in my room. But what I don't like is the binding posts. I have 12 ga. cables and it is almost impossible to use the binding posts on MRX. If anyone knows any tricks please let me know.
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post #9548 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

I got my MRX 700 yesterday. I sold my D2v, P5, S8, C5 and downgraded to Sig S6, C3 and MRX 700. I still use ADP3. Well I just connected the speakers and played some songs without ARC, adjusteing the speaker distances or the crossover (left it at 80hz default) and withoout properly adjusting the speaker levels and the subwoofer phase and polarity. Well, this MRX 700 is about 80% the same as the D2v and P5 I had. I am hoping it will be very close to D2v and P5 after I do ARC and other adjustments. This applies to my room. Maybe I did not use the full power of D2v and P5 in my room. But what I don't like is the binding posts. I have 12 ga. cables and it is almost impossible to use the binding posts on MRX. If anyone knows any tricks please let me know.

You just described my ideal system! The one you got rid of that is! If you don't mind me asking, why did you downgrade? THose that you sold are exactly what I want but can't do it now. Hopefully in the future I can start to piece it together. I haven't recovered from my Sub 2 purchase yet and that was back in May of last year.
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post #9549 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwheelwright View Post


You just described my ideal system! The one you got rid of that is! If you don't mind me asking, why did you downgrade? THose that you sold are exactly what I want but can't do it now. Hopefully in the future I can start to piece it together. I haven't recovered from my Sub 2 purchase yet and that was back in May of last year.

I wouldn't trade my D2v, A5, A2 combo for anything, especially my MRX 500
John

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post #9550 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

I got my MRX 700 yesterday. I sold my D2v, P5, S8, C5 and downgraded to Sig S6, C3 and MRX 700. I still use ADP3. Well I just connected the speakers and played some songs without ARC, adjusteing the speaker distances or the crossover (left it at 80hz default) and withoout properly adjusting the speaker levels and the subwoofer phase and polarity. Well, this MRX 700 is about 80% the same as the D2v and P5 I had. I am hoping it will be very close to D2v and P5 after I do ARC and other adjustments. This applies to my room. Maybe I did not use the full power of D2v and P5 in my room. But what I don't like is the binding posts. I have 12 ga. cables and it is almost impossible to use the binding posts on MRX. If anyone knows any tricks please let me know.

WOW!!!! I guess it's definitely different strokes for different folks; but, I wouldn't have given up a D2v, P5, S8, and C5. As long as you are happy is all that matters. You are a lot bolder than me.
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post #9551 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 12:45 PM
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WOW!!!! I guess it's definitely different strokes for different folks; but, I wouldn't have given up a D2v, P5, S8, and C5. As long as you are happy is all that matters. You are a lot bolder than me.

I had to PROGRAM a BIG Crestron system so the Crestron
Dealer would buy me my NEW 3D Projector. Sometimes
will make financial decisions in these HARD times.
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post #9552 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

I had to PROGRAM a BIG Crestron system so the Crestron
Dealer would buy me my NEW 3D Projector. Sometimes
will make financial decisions in these HARD times.

Well, I don't know what the circumstances were, and I don't need to know. Like I said, as long as he's happy with it, is all that matters. And hopefully, you are happy with your NEW 3D Projector.
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post #9553 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 12:56 PM
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Well, I don't know what the circumstances were, and I don't need to know. Like I said, as long as he's happy with it, is all that matters. And hopefully, you are happy with your NEW 3D Projector.

I see if I like it on Saturday when I install it with my
Non-3D Anthem D2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blb1215 View Post

From reading the manual Dolby Volumn seems to be Anthem's version of Audyssey's Dynamic Volumn and Dynamic EQ combined. Based on my research it seems most agree Dynamic Volumn and Dolby Volumn are best left off except occassions such as when watching movies at night.

Audyssey's Dynamic EQ gets mostly favorable comments and seems to be a very desirable feature. If I understand the manual Anthem's appears you can set Dolby Volumn to off and there is a second control that seems to mimic what Dynamic EQ does.

I don't see many positive comments on Dolby Volumn by Anthem owners. Can Anthem be set to only act as a Dynamic EQ similar to Audyssey and if so is it as effective?

My basic understanding of the two is dolby volumn or Dynamic Volumn levels the sound for example in programs with loud commercials while Dynamic EQ compensates for low output of highs and lows because of low volumn and reduces this compensation as you increase the volumn to reference level in order to perceive a fuller sound at all volumn levels.

Is my understanding correct and does the Anthem perform Dynamic EQ as good as Audyssey?

Thanks,
Barry

Dolby Vol. - On
Half-Mode - On
Levler - Off

This should give you what Audyssey Dynamic EQ is set-up to do.

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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post


I had to PROGRAM a BIG Crestron system so the Crestron
Dealer would buy me my NEW 3D Projector. Sometimes
will make financial decisions in these HARD times.

Never hurts to have skills others don't
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post #9556 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 01:04 PM
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I see if I like it on Saturday when I install it with my
Non-3D Anthem D2

I wish you all the best!!!!
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post #9557 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

WOW!!!! I guess it's definitely different strokes for different folks; but, I wouldn't have given up a D2v, P5, S8, and C5. As long as you are happy is all that matters. You are a lot bolder than me.

There are many reason why people do things - need to free up some cash, need to simplify, moved to a smaller place where P5 is just too much... I don't think the OP just woke up one morning and decided to downgrade just for fun.
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post #9558 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

I got my MRX 700 yesterday. I sold my D2v, P5, S8, C5 and downgraded to Sig S6, C3 and MRX 700. I still use ADP3. Well I just connected the speakers and played some songs without ARC, adjusteing the speaker distances or the crossover (left it at 80hz default) and withoout properly adjusting the speaker levels and the subwoofer phase and polarity. Well, this MRX 700 is about 80% the same as the D2v and P5 I had. I am hoping it will be very close to D2v and P5 after I do ARC and other adjustments. This applies to my room. Maybe I did not use the full power of D2v and P5 in my room. But what I don't like is the binding posts. I have 12 ga. cables and it is almost impossible to use the binding posts on MRX. If anyone knows any tricks please let me know.

So no one actually answered your question...

Are you trying to put bare raw wires into the binding posts of the MRX? I think around 12 gauge or larger, that is going to get real tricky... any reason you don't simply use some banana plugs?

Please, before you ask a question about...
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post #9559 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dglozic View Post

There are many reason why people do things - need to free up some cash, need to simplify, moved to a smaller place where P5 is just too much... I don't think the OP just woke up one morning and decided to downgrade just for fun.

I understand all of that, and whatever the reason is for the OP to downgrade is the OP's business. As long as the OP is happy is all that matters regardless of what anyone has to say including me.
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post #9560 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rwheelwright View Post

You just described my ideal system! The one you got rid of that is! If you don't mind me asking, why did you downgrade? THose that you sold are exactly what I want but can't do it now. Hopefully in the future I can start to piece it together. I haven't recovered from my Sub 2 purchase yet and that was back in May of last year.

Due to space limitation, I had to sell them. Also needed some cash.
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post #9561 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 04:27 PM
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So no one actually answered your question...

Are you trying to put bare raw wires into the binding posts of the MRX? I think around 12 gauge or larger, that is going to get real tricky... any reason you don't simply use some banana plugs?

Yes, just bare raw wires. But since they are very difficult to use, I might use banana plugs.
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post #9562 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 04:43 PM
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Yes, just bare raw wires. But since they are very difficult to use, I might use banana plugs.

I would definitely use banana plugs for the connection instead of using just bare wire. Over time, the banana plug will be a better connection.
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post #9563 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 04:44 PM
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Due to space limitation, I had to sell them. Also needed some cash.

Definitely understandable in this economy.
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post #9564 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 06:17 PM
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Also 2 questions to the knowledgable folk on this forum
- Does speaker cable make a difference, and I'll expand, using something like Chord cable compared to generic cable that would be thicker than the chord. Not sure of the guage I am using at the moment but sales person in the store said the Chord would make a big difference.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglozic View Post

If you care about non-nonsense writeup about cables, Blue Jean Cable web site has a few about different kinds that is reasonable and shows you what matters and what does not. When it comes to speaker cables, the first priority is minimizing resistance, which you do by using as wide a wire (gauge) as practically possible. If you check B&W speaker specs, they always suggest keeping speaker wire resistance below 0.1ohm. You can Google for tables that show you relationship of wire gauge, length and total resistance. For example, to keep your 14 gauge wire below 0.1ohm you need to keep it shorter that 14'. Drop to 12 gauge and you can go up to 19' and so on.

Another parameter that is kept low in speaker cables is inductance. This is typically handled by twisting the pair of conductors. Twisting increases capacitance but most well engineered amplifiers will handle resonable cable capacitance without begining to oscillate or otherwise misbehave.

Conclusion: use the tables to compute the gauge that keeps your total speaker resistance below 0.1 ohm, and pick a twisted pair construction (many manufacturers do this). Avoid speaker wires where two conductors are placed in parallel to each other - they have larger inductance.

Disclosure: I use Audioquest Type 4 wire for my front speakers - four twisted LGC copper conductors with equivalent gauge of 15, 8' (two runs actually since I biwired all three speakers). This gives me total resistance of 0.0832ohm - i.e. <0.1 as suggested.

As for digital connection, I agree with Tigger that digital is digital but note that HDMI is known to have high levels of jitter. I don't know if MRX has sufficient jitter rejection, but one way to try is to connect your Panasonic via coaxial SPDIF cable (you can map it to another input, say CD). If CDs sound better through the CD input (coaxial SPDIF) than the Blu-Ray input (HDMI), use CD input for CDs and you are golden. If you cannot detect any difference, use HDMI input for all.

In my system, I have Arcam FMJ CD23 connected via Audioquest digital coaxial to MRX, and also Panasonic Blu-Ray via HDMI. To my ears, CDs sound better on Arcam. I am fully prepared to be ridiculed, but many high end companies prefer SPDIF to HDMI for high quality audio, so at least I am not alone. Just keep this in perspective - we are talking minute details that may or may not be noticeable in your room and system.

Others have weighed in nicely on this - a few of my observations. The Chord cable is twisted pair, to reduce inductance, and has, I believe, a low capacitance dialectric. However, generic cables may offer the same benefit at reduced cost - the Belden 1311A or 1313a, for example. Belden also has some nice literature on cable design.

What I have noticed about the MRX is that it seems to be responsive to cable guage, even over short runs. I have tested several different types of cable with my MRX, including 4 types of Audioquest ( 1 stranded, 3 solid core), as well as DH labs(Silver Sonic), generic Hitachi, Cat 5, etc., as well as a couple different types of Belden and Rapco. What I have noticed is that double runs to increase wire guage always resulted in an improvement in sound, particularly in the bass region. It DIDN'T matter the brand (or pricing - doubling that Audioquest and DH Labs could get pricey.)


Anyway, I now run 2 Belden 1311A in parrallel for each speaker (each wire carries both polarities) which gives me 2 12ga. wires per speaker. It has totally transformed the bass response and overall system sound. At about $1.00 (US) per foot, it is reasonably priced. The Belden does have twisted pair and Polyolefin insulation for low capacitance at a reasonable price. It can also be run in wall.

One other note - May I suggest running ARC after changing your cables - it seemed to make a difference to my ears.
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post #9565 of 16595 Old 03-06-2012, 11:39 PM
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Anyway, I now run 2 Belden 1311A in parrallel for each speaker (each wire carries both polarities) which gives me 2 12ga. wires per speaker. It has totally transformed the bass response and overall system sound. At about $1.00 (US) per foot, it is reasonably priced. The Belden does have twisted pair and Polyolefin insulation for low capacitance at a reasonable price. It can also be run in wall.

One other note - May I suggest running ARC after changing your cables - it seemed to make a difference to my ears.


I did a search online and could only find the Belden wire in 500' lengths (or longer). Does HD or Lowe's sell it by the foot?
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post #9566 of 16595 Old 03-07-2012, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Very interesting finds. I'm still not sure that you are crossing the fronts over when in Anthem Music mode... I'm wondering if perhaps Anthem is creating a "Dot 1" channel instead.

I actually, very specifically, asked Anthem the question of what happens when you set a speaker to full range crossover and here was the response...

"Checking the Full Range box in Targets sets the speaker to Large in the menu. Large means that fronts bass won't get redirected to the sub."

And just to better complete the picture... here was the exact question I asked:

"If you set a speaker to "Full range X-over" in ARC and set the 'cutoff' value to something other than 'Flat', such as say 40, will the speaker still crossover to the sub below 40 or does setting it to "Full range" prevent it from crossing, even if you do not set it to 'Flat'?"

Remember that the Anthem Music/Cinema modes are artificially creating all of the other channels in your system. So I'm guessing it creates an LFE Channel as well based on your findings. Just a guess of course, perhaps sending Anthem a quick email with your findings might provide us with a better idea of what is going on

I would be interestined to know if your sub is producing frequencies up to 100Hz or higher when you use Anthem Music.

I've done some more experimentation. The Anthem is certainly not doing what it is supposed to, but whether that is a bad thing or not is moot.

First I set the speakers to Flat and then tested it. The sub still plays (unless I turn it off). In effect this gives you something like the Double Bass setting found on Onkyos and Denon receivers.

Then I set the speakers to Full Range, but the cut off to 100Hz to see how high the sub would play. It didn't play any higher so it doesn't play up to 100hz, but only below some set frequency. The volume of the sub is also slightly lower than if you use the Small 60Hz setting.

The odd thing was that the drivers of my main speakers were still vibrating heavily even when the cut-off was set to 100Hz. This is because ARC stops applying correction below a certain figure, as you can see in the graphs I've attached. There is, in fact, more deep bass sent to your speakers the higher you go. You can see some roll-off from the 30Hz cut-off I've attached, but at 50Hz and above the bump comes back.

To sum up, my Anthem (at least) does add the sub to the full range setting, but unless you are crossing really low (30-40Hz) you are risking really deep bass still coming out of your mains. They obviously want you to pick Small 60Hz and be done with it.
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post #9567 of 16595 Old 03-07-2012, 03:08 AM
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Re: Using DOLBY VOLUME to reduce overall volume for late night viewing
I'd like to be able to reduce the bass/ loudness' etc if watching a movie late a night on the fly. I live in a terraced house

The Dolby volume button on the remote suggests this does exactly what I'm looking for = a one button press to activate Dolby Volume...
Reading user manual Page 37 section 4.6.7, it states to use Dolby Volume according to its setting in the level Calibration and source setup menus press the DOLBY VOLUME

I tried alternating this button ON/OFF last night and then opened the Level Calibration menu to see if the DOLBY VOLUME setting in the matched but it did not match.
E.g. when I toggled to ON via the remote, the Dolby Volume setting under level calibration still showed as OFF.
Whilst tying this post now in work I'm just thinking should I have looked up the ADVANCE SOURCE SETUP menu instead?

Now I'm reading through the MRX manual and just getting confused

Reading/comparing Pages 17 & 20 on the various Dolby volume settings
I'm confused about the relationship between setting the:

- Dolby Volume Leveler Amount in the LEVEL CALIBRATION menu option (page 17)
versus
-configuring Dolby Volume mode in Advanced source Setup menu (page 20)

The LEVEL CALIBRATION is for all sources - I do NOT want any Dolby volume reductions set to ON by default, this is where I'm confused.I just want the option to activate Dolby volume temporarily late at night. E.g. I want BDP by default to have all DOLBY VOLUME setting switched off so I'm reluctant to change Dolby Volume Leveler Amount for all sources..

Q1) Do you just use the Dolby Volume Leveler Amount to set your personal preference as to what level of adjustment you get when you activate Dolby Volume mode for a specific source?
e.g. does this setting ONLY come into effect in conjunction with having the Dolby Volume mode set to ON'?

Next, User manual Page 17, section titled Dolby Volume Leveler Amount states
..when Dolby Level is Off the frequency response adjustment still applies unless Dolby Volume is also off

Q2) So if Dolby Volume Leveler Amount but Dolby Volume still set to ON - what level is being applied? I don't understand from the wording in the manual

And 1 basic question:

Q3) Using the Dolby Volume button on the remote - is this setting stored after powering down the MRX?
I'm hoping it is NOT and is merely there to allow that on the fly activation if the sound is a little too much when watching late at night



Hoping someone can make sense of my rambling summary and help me understand these alternate settings?
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post #9568 of 16595 Old 03-07-2012, 05:03 AM
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Hi Jayray, if you don't mind would you update the FAQ with regard to PC resolutions in Through mode?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1086

Thanks

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #9569 of 16595 Old 03-07-2012, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sneill View Post

I do NOT want any Dolby volume reductions set to ON by default, this is where I’m confused….I just want the option to activate Dolby volume temporarily late at night.

Sounds like it's on by default in the source setup.

Setup > Audio/Video Setup and Presets > Advanced Source Setup > Dolby Volume Mode (set to Off)

Alternatively, if newer software is in use, load defaults and Dolby Volume preset will be Off for all sources. You'd have to re-do your settings and re-load the ARC file before saving the configuration in User Settings memory.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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post #9570 of 16595 Old 03-07-2012, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dodds View Post

The odd thing was that the drivers of my main speakers were still vibrating heavily even when the cut-off was set to 100Hz. This is because ARC stops applying correction below a certain figure, as you can see in the graphs I've attached.

Nothing odd about it - the text box in the Targets panel explains what's happening, and it's that the target cutoff has to do with correction range not crossover. Normally, ARC sets the crossover frequency to the same frequency. If you then change the cutoff frequency in the Targets panel and want the crossover frequency to also change, you have to go to the MRX setup menu - speaker configuration.

The most important noise floor is in your head. Always remember to protect your hearing.
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