Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 553 - AVS Forum
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post #16561 of 16588 Old 08-27-2014, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skytowner View Post
Hello, I am experiencing some issues with my MRX 500. When watching TV for instance the receiver will suddenly continually switch from 1080 to 480, making it impossible to watch the program. It does this for a few minutes,I power the unit off and sometimes it fixes it and other times it does not. It seems to be an intermittant problem, I had it set to Auto and changed to throughput but it still does it?

I am by no means an expert and am learing as I go so any input/help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Maybe a bad cable or connection?
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post #16562 of 16588 Old 08-27-2014, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwheelwright View Post
Maybe a bad cable or connection?
Connection is HDMI, wouldn't a bad cable result in no signal and not the constant switching between signals?
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post #16563 of 16588 Old 08-27-2014, 02:31 PM
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Nope. People love to talk about ones and zeros making it or not but that simply isn't always true. HDMI handshake issues can be caused by cables. A few people have solved their issues by replacing cables. I myself made my issues worse when I introduced a Sony S790 into the mix with video going to the TV for HDMI 1 and Audio going to the MRX on HDMI 2. I deal with it though and after it resolves itself everything works fine but sometimes the TV flashes like 10 times before it looks on. Didn't do it with my S550.
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post #16564 of 16588 Old 08-27-2014, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skytowner View Post
Hello, I am experiencing some issues with my MRX 500. When watching TV for instance the receiver will suddenly continually switch from 1080 to 480, making it impossible to watch the program. It does this for a few minutes,I power the unit off and sometimes it fixes it and other times it does not. It seems to be an intermittant problem, I had it set to Auto and changed to throughput but it still does it?

I am by no means an expert and am learing as I go so any input/help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Is your cable box set to output 1080p for all content or auto? I'm asking because if the station output say a commercial in 480p and then the show in 1080 you'll get the behavior you're describing. You'll also get this if some channels output 1080 and others 480 or 720. Take a look at the front of the box and see if different channels output different formats/

"What do you mean it's too loud? My ears aren't even bleeding yet!"

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post #16565 of 16588 Old 08-28-2014, 06:39 AM
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Help with my arc

Hi folks, I will thank some welp with my graphics.
My system is:
MRX-500
Frontal: Sonus Faber Concerto Domus
Center: Sonus FaberToy Center
Rear: B&W 686
SW: B&W 608
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post #16566 of 16588 Old 08-28-2014, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macario12 View Post
Hi folks, I will thank some welp with my graphics.
My system is:
MRX-500
Frontal: Sonus Faber Concerto Domus
Center: Sonus FaberToy Center
Rear: B&W 686
SW: B&W 608
Hi, Everything looks pretty good except your sub chart. Your sub is rolling off around 50Hz and based on it's specs it should play down to around 30Hz or so before rolling off.

In the Target Customizations window click "Advanced" and change the "Subwoofer High pass Order" to Flat. Also make sure on the back of your sub the "Low-pass filter switch" is set to Out. For the EQ and Bass Extension switches on your sub you'll have to play with these to get the best performance. Changes to these and the Low pass Filter switch will really effect how low your sub goes,

You manual says this about the EQ and Bass Extension switches:
Quote:
"The BASS EXTENSION switch offers three options of subwoofer bass extension. Position A gives the greatest extension and position C gives the least extension. Position B provides a compromise setting. If the system is to be used at very high volume levels or in a large listening room, restricting the bass extension by selecting either B or C may help ensure that the subwoofer is not asked to exceed its performance limits. In most situations the BASS EXTENSION switch should be left in position A. The EQ switch alters the subwoofer bass roll-off alignment. The bass you hear is a combination of the subwoofer plus the effects of the room and you should choose the position that best complements your room and the location of the subwoofer. Position A gives a drier” alignment, more suited to placing the subwoofer in a corner or compensating for a resonant room. Position B is suited to a less resonant room acoustic and use away from a corner."
I like extension so I'd go with "A" on the Bass Extension switch.

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post #16567 of 16588 Old 08-30-2014, 02:19 AM
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Thanks Legairre, I have change all that you said.

Is there any way to check these changes? Because if I do the measures again, I lose the advanced settings.

Regards
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post #16568 of 16588 Old 08-30-2014, 02:21 AM
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Which Dolby Volume settings do you guys recommend?

I would like to reduce, if possible, the difference in sound levels between normal TV watching and commercials.

Also, in my appartment I need to keep loud movie noises down a bit too.

But, it shouldn't be too noticeable (the Dolby Volume changes in volume level).

Thanks,

/Martin
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post #16569 of 16588 Old 09-03-2014, 12:43 AM
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Hi all,

ARC failing and showing msg "Failed to start the test tone". I've got serial to USB which worked perfectly to upgrade FW and without any drivers issue in device manager. I've also tried with few different USB ports and always the same. Other thing is whenever I open ARC program, it seems to hang on window "...Calibration in progress". I've to press OK on remote and it'll come up with option to choose mic and after a while failed msg. Any ideas??

MRX300 bought used.
W7 64bit.

Thanks.

Edit: calibration done. It was the HTPC connected with MRX300. Had to use other laptop.

Last edited by linesman; 09-03-2014 at 02:56 PM.
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post #16570 of 16588 Old 09-05-2014, 12:50 PM
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I bought new speakers, and it is time to run ARC again. My 5.1 system now consists of: PSB Imagine T2 (mains), PSB Imagine C (center), PSB Imagine mini (surrounds), SVS PC 13-Ultra (subwoofer).


The attached images are from my first run with the new speakers. There was a fair amount of background noise from traffic.


Levels are: FL +1, C 0, FR +1, SR 0, SL -1, Sub -3.


On the left-front, the green line wasn't tracking very well below 70Hz. The same was true for the center below 60Hz, but not quite as bad. The right-surround was a little bumpy between 100 and 300 Hz.


The PSB speakers come with port plugs. I experimented with quick measure, plugging and unplugging various ports on the three speakers, to see if I could improve on the measured graphs. Plugging the center speaker really made a
mess of it, so I left that one alone. The left-front and the right-surround each got one plug added.


(Continued in next post.)
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post #16571 of 16588 Old 09-05-2014, 12:54 PM
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For my second run, (with the left-front and right-surround speakers plugged) my graphs are attached to this post. I did this one late at night, and there was much less background noise.


All the levels were the same as the first run, except the FL, which increased from +1 to +2, probably because of the port plug.


On the left-front, the deviations are smaller, but now range up to 150Hz. The right front got worse, even though I didn't touch that one, with deviations below 70Hz.


The center picked up some extra bumps from 80 to 200 Hz, and even the Subwoofer is not quite as smooth as it was.


The right-surround smoothed out, but picked up a new bump below 40Hz. The left-surround, which I did not touch, is not tracking as well as it did the first time, especially below 30Hz.


So which are the important deviations, and which ones can be ignored? Am I obsessing over nothing?
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post #16572 of 16588 Old 09-05-2014, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macario12 View Post
Thanks Legairre, I have change all that you said.

Is there any way to check these changes? Because if I do the measures again, I lose the advanced settings.
If you go to the ARC software in the target window you can have two separate configurations. One for movies and one for music. Make the changes to one of them so you can compare it to the other. Then go into the Anthem receiver's setup menu and go to the "Audio/Video Setup and Presets" menu and change the bass manager back and forth from music to movie to see which one you like the best.

Using this method you have two different configs without rerunning ARC.

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post #16573 of 16588 Old 09-05-2014, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayla View Post
Which Dolby Volume settings do you guys recommend?

I would like to reduce, if possible, the difference in sound levels between normal TV watching and commercials.

Also, in my appartment I need to keep loud movie noises down a bit too.

But, it shouldn't be too noticeable (the Dolby Volume changes in volume level).

Thanks,
I wish I could help but I keep my Dolby volume setting off all the time. I'm sure others will chime in though.

"What do you mean it's too loud? My ears aren't even bleeding yet!"

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post #16574 of 16588 Old 09-05-2014, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Isble View Post
For my second run, (with the left-front and right-surround speakers plugged) my graphs are attached to this post. I did this one late at night, and there was much less background noise.


All the levels were the same as the first run, except the FL, which increased from +1 to +2, probably because of the port plug.


On the left-front, the deviations are smaller, but now range up to 150Hz. The right front got worse, even though I didn't touch that one, with deviations below 70Hz.


The center picked up some extra bumps from 80 to 200 Hz, and even the Subwoofer is not quite as smooth as it was.


The right-surround smoothed out, but picked up a new bump below 40Hz. The left-surround, which I did not touch, is not tracking as well as it did the first time, especially below 30Hz.


So which are the important deviations, and which ones can be ignored? Am I obsessing over nothing?
Unless you're room is treated and absolutely perfect you'll never get every speaker tracking perfectly with the blue line. Looking at your graphs things look pretty good unless you're willing to start moving around the surrounds and other speakers. BTW your sub looks great. you hit the 120Hz mark for the crossover and it's not dropping off at the lower frequencies.

Sure you could improve the other speakers but it depends on the room and how much you're willing to move the speakers.

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post #16575 of 16588 Old 09-11-2014, 09:51 AM
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I have MRX500 and am considering using the zone 2 output to for a set of deck speakers and I have a couple of questions. Is it possible to still use zone 1 playing 7.1 from one source while using zone 2 from another source? Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced ($100 or less) and sized 2 channel amp to power a pair of deck speakers.
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post #16576 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 08:42 AM
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Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if the Anthem Remote App works on the MRX 500?
Thx

"I'd start a revolution, if I could just get out of bed." -fetters
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post #16577 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 11:06 AM
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hey guys,

been lurking here forever, finally posting up my results with the ARC.
the system specs are -

fronts - paradigm montior 9 v.5
center - paradigm cc-390 v.5
rear - paradigm ADP-390 v.5
subwoofers - pair of SVS PB-12 plus
amps - emotiva XPA-2 (fronts) XPA-3 (center and surrounds)

the room is treated with some homemade acoustic pannels and i'm running my MRX-500 as
a pre/pro.

so what do the OG professionals think? i found after it was done, it sounded WEAK. the ARC set the cutoffs on the mains (3 fronts) at 60hz, the rears
at 120hz. i adjusted all the channels to 75DB and then it was way better. i also juiced up my SVS's from -20 to -10, and then played with the sub levels
on the anthem to get nice angry tight bass, but not too much.

any insight? i enclosed the measurements before and after the ARC correction.
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Last edited by laychooba; 09-15-2014 at 11:28 AM.
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post #16578 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 11:50 AM
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Does anyone know if the Anthem MRX 700 is capable of playing 4K TV's to get the ultra HD picture? If so, is it necessary to change the HDMI cable? Thanks for all your input.
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post #16579 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laychooba View Post
hey guys,

been lurking here forever, finally posting up my results with the ARC.
the system specs are -

fronts - paradigm montior 9 v.5
center - paradigm cc-390 v.5
rear - paradigm ADP-390 v.5
subwoofers - pair of SVS PB-12 plus
amps - emotiva XPA-2 (fronts) XPA-3 (center and surrounds)

the room is treated with some homemade acoustic pannels and i'm running my MRX-500 as
a pre/pro.

so what do the OG professionals think? i found after it was done, it sounded WEAK. the ARC set the cutoffs on the mains (3 fronts) at 60hz, the rears
at 120hz. i adjusted all the channels to 75DB and then it was way better. i also juiced up my SVS's from -20 to -10, and then played with the sub levels
on the anthem to get nice angry tight bass, but not too much.

any insight? i enclosed the measurements before and after the ARC correction.
Are you using the latest version of ARC2? It should be v1.0.1.7

Reason why I ask is because the earlier versions set cutoffs below 80 Hz.

Also can you post an image of the ARC calculation screen where it sets cutoffs, calibration volumes, etc.

Ascend Acoustics Sierra 2
Ascend Acoustics HTM-200SE
Powersound Audio XV15
Anthem MRX 510
Rega RP1

Last edited by JasonT35; 09-15-2014 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Wanted to ask another question
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post #16580 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonT35 View Post
Are you using the latest version of ARC2? It should be v1.0.1.7

Reason why I ask is because the earlier versions set cutoffs below 80 Hz.

Also can you post an image of the ARC calculation screen where it sets cutoffs, calibration volumes, etc.
He can't use ARC2. ARC2 is for the 10x series. The 00 series latest ARC is ARC1 version 3.0.2.

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post #16581 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 02:59 PM
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@JasonT35

yeah, i forgot to take a screen grab of the calculation screen. i'll get on it tonight.

isn't that version of v1.0.1.7 only for the 510 model? i just checked on the site and for the 500 it's
ARC-1 Software v3.0.2. can i run the new version even i have a MRX-500?\

thanks!
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post #16582 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 04:56 PM
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I'm sorry guys. I thought I was in the mrx x10 thread
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post #16583 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonT35 View Post
I'm sorry guys. I thought I was in the mrx x10 thread
ah ha. i thought maybe i posted in the wrong thread there
for a second.

here's the screen grab from the calculation screen.
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post #16584 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonT35 View Post
I'm sorry guys. I thought I was in the mrx x10 thread
I did the same thing a month or so ago.

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post #16585 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laychooba View Post
ah ha. i thought maybe i posted in the wrong thread there
for a second.

here's the screen grab from the calculation screen.
You have a big null on your sub's graph!! The low end
Out put is very good.but you are loosing a lot of content
Between 50hz and about 100hz...so much so that ARC
Has set the HPF at 80hz. That # should be 120hz!

"Murphy's Law" states that subs will rarely sound their
Best when positioned where they look the best.

You are going to need to move you subs around to get a
"Flatter" graph. Get rid of that big "V"
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post #16586 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 05:25 PM
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ughhhhh i had a feeling i would have to move them.
man, they just fit SO GOOD there. is there something specific
i should be doing while ARC tuning dual subs?

Last edited by laychooba; 09-15-2014 at 05:31 PM.
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post #16587 of 16588 Old 09-15-2014, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laychooba View Post
ughhhhh i had a feeling i would have to move them.
man, they just fit SO GOOD there.
Sorry! I would start by moving the subs drivers
90 degrees so that the drivers face the left and right
Walls.

Use the "quick measure" function on ARC to
Save time. Measure the sub only in real time
And maybe do one at a time looking for a flatter
Graph. Good luck and be patient. It took me a
Couple of hours to get mine right and mine was
About as bad.
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post #16588 of 16588 Old Yesterday, 11:04 AM
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Anyone have help for me? Can't get arc to run it says can't find a valid Anthem processor?

Never mind needed drivers

Sierra-2 LCR
HTM-200 rears
Rythmik E15HP
Anthem MRX-300
Samsung 8550 UHD
-$8500ish : (

Last edited by JustABrah; Yesterday at 11:41 AM.
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