The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 370 - AVS Forum
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post #11071 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 04:26 PM
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^^^

the display is shared between multiple units...

nothing... the box going away simply tells you that you've changed something...

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 

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post #11072 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 04:36 PM
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Oh ok. Thanks ccotenj and cruel!
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post #11073 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostProtocol View Post

Thanks for the replies. But i tried to sneak on the screen display on my receiver when its off and i saw "XT" next to multieq. I read in some other threads that denon 1912 model has audyssey multieq XT on it.

@ccotenj what's the diff with or without the box on audyssey? Thanks again!

Also in Europe the 1912 comes with Multieq XT and they pay more for it.
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post #11074 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayjohnson88 View Post

Can anyone suggest a confirmed solution for an IR extender for an AVR-1712?

Can anyone help me with the IR input on my avr-1712?

I bought this from monoprice, received it today with no luck

5ft IR Extender Cable (Receiver), product 8060

Does my denon avr take mono IR input? And can anyone recommend a simple solution for an IR extender? My receiver is hidden, and am looking for a cheap practicle solution to control it.

Thanks!
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post #11075 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 05:42 PM
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^^
I have the Next Gen and it is working beautifully. It turns your IR remote to RF working thru walls. I use a single 3.5mm audio cable to connect the Next Gen to the remote in in the back of my 3312. Not sure your Denon has this remote in connection, if not, you can use the included emitter eyes. You just place the base receiver by your equipments and your remote will control all of them. Very sweet little device.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ce-full-site=1
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post #11076 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayjohnson88 View Post

Can anyone help me with the IR input on my avr-1712?

I bought this from monoprice, received it today with no luck

5ft IR Extender Cable (Receiver), product 8060

Does my denon avr take mono IR input? And can anyone recommend a simple solution for an IR extender? My receiver is hidden, and am looking for a cheap practicle solution to control it.

Thanks!

Try the Search this Thread on the top of any page of this forum below the pg. # and type IR extender. Also try the avs 3311/991 thread as I recall several discussions on this matter that may help you out.
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post #11077 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 06:11 PM
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^^^

Yes the 1712 is the first in the 12 series line to have the Room-to-Room back connection so the Next Gen extender would also work for you that Yuong suggested. Is there a model # I may pick one up to use in another room.
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post #11078 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 06:27 PM
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it s been years since i have the Next Gen. Not sure the A, B, C switch in its receiver allow one to use the remote independently.
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post #11079 of 19339 Old 04-19-2012, 11:03 PM
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I'm thinking about buying a 3312 because...

I currently own a 3808, and I recently bought an ATON DLA4 speaker selector. Why? Because I want a device that can remotely control 3 additional rooms of speakers on/off with independent volume control. The speaker selector input is connected to my 3808 via the amp assign (Zone 2) terminals. The DLA4 selector output is connected to 8 ohm speakers. However, I think I've run myself into a problem, because the max power input to the DLA4 selector is 125W. I'm guessing the 3808 will push 130W+ in direct stero mode to those 8 ohm speakers. And I'm also guessing that's the sole reason why I get no sound to flow through the speaker selector when everything is wired up. I know the speakers and the DLA4 selector work b/c I tested them with an older 90W amp.

Question 1: do the 125W vs 130W ratings really make that much of a difference? Or is the 3808 likely even pushing more power (130W+) because its in direct mode? Any other reason why my setup may not work? Any tricks I could do to get the 3808 to dial back the power?
Question 2: If I bought a 3312 (which I need anyway for HDMI 1.4) would the 125W rating on that unit solve the problem? Even if I'm pushing to speakers in direct sound mode, potentially letting the 125W rating drift higher?
Question 3: Does anybody know of another speaker selector that will allow independent remote control (on/off and volume) of each speaker pair with a higher rating than 125W? I do not want a selector that uses mechanical buttons and knobs that you have to physically touch...I am controlling this stuff over my IP network with an iPad & iPhone.

Thanks!
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post #11080 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 01:11 AM
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^^
1. Nope. Nope. Yup (Zone 2 is likely OFF or an HDMI source is selected). Yup (First turn Zone 2 ON and also plug an analog cable in from any HDMI source to the 3808CI). Also follow the DL24 Quick Select Guide to set the proper Zone 2 volume on the 3808CI.

2. Yup, but first solve the problem using the 3808CI.

3. Refer to #1.

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post #11081 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 06:46 AM
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I just received my 2112ci to replace my aging Onkyo TX-SR674. I am about to run setup and have a question about a sub setting.

In the Audyssey guide, it says to set phase control to "0", however my sub only has the option of "normal or rev". Which would be the best setting?

It also does not have a polarity setting to turn to "0" or LPF setting to disable unless I have overlooked this in a setting on the unit.

The sub is a 10" that came with a Polk Audio RM6880 5.1 setup.

Any help is much appreciated.
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post #11082 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 07:22 AM
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set phase to normal, adjust the crossover to its max, sub gain to half way then run the Autosetup.
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post #11083 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 07:22 AM
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Phase control "normal" would be 0 degrees. If your sub doesn't a have LFE setting then don't worry about it as some don't. BTW is this sub powered?

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post #11084 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 08:28 AM
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Sammy,
I see you have a HTPC. Wonder if you use a Harmony remote to control MCE. If so, do you know how to program it as mouse control? I have the 650 with the Next Gen RF transmitter to control my HTPC and all other equipment and love the combo. If i can use my Harmony to mouse control MCE, i will be happy and leave my wireless keyboard/mouse Iogear out except for web browsing. Now, if Harmony makes a control with a built in QWERTY keyboard in the back similar to Boxee Box control, i will definitely buy one. Thanks.
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post #11085 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post

Sammy,
I see you have a HTPC. Wonder if you use a Harmony remote to control MCE. If so, do you know how to program it as mouse control? I have the 650 with the Next Gen RF transmitter to control my HTPC and all other equipment and love the combo. If i can use my Harmony to mouse control MCE, i will be happy and leave my wireless keyboard/mouse Iogear out except for web browsing. Now, if Harmony makes a control with a built in QWERTY keyboard in the back similar to Boxee Box control, i will definitely buy one. Thanks.

I suggest posting over in the HTPC area which is very active. If you look in the assassin HTPC sticky and find a post by him (1st one of course) there's a link to his blog. If you subscribe to his blog there's specific instructions on mouse control using a Harmony as well as dozens of illustrated guides on seting up your HTPC to do all sorts of things.

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post #11086 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
1. Nope. Nope. Yup (Zone 2 is likely OFF or an HDMI source is selected). Yup (First turn Zone 2 ON and also plug an analog cable in from any HDMI source to the 3808CI). Also follow the DL24 Quick Select Guide to set the proper Zone 2 volume on the 3808CI.

2. Yup, but first solve the problem using the 3808CI.

3. Refer to #1.

jdsmoothie - thanks for the quick reply. I was hoping to hear from you. However, I'm not sure the troubleshooting tips on #1 are true. Let me explain:

Prior to connecting the speaker selector, i was powering my outdoor speakers via Zone 2 configuration using my amp assign terminals on the 3808...just a straight connection from the 3808 to the outdoor speakers...using an input mode of "CD" with an analog input. Success. Only when i routed the amp assign wiring through the speaker selector did the sound disappear. I thought the speaker selector may have been faulty, so i tested it (still connected to the same outdoor speakers) using a different amp with lower power. It worked fine.

Not sure if you answered this...but is it possible to reduce the power output on a channel in the 3808? (I'm thinking "no.")

I'll go back and check the volume setup steps on the DLA4, but I'm skeptical. I will also contact their tech support.
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post #11087 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 09:42 AM
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Sure it's possible ... just lower the volume. Note that on average, even at reference volume, the speakers are drawing < 5W/CH.

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post #11088 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy2 View Post


I suggest posting over in the HTPC area which is very active. If you look in the assassin HTPC sticky and find a post by him (1st one of course) there's a link to his blog. If you subscribe to his blog there's specific instructions on mouse control using a Harmony as well as dozens of illustrated guides on seting up your HTPC to do all sorts of things.

I did post there with no reply. Tempting to sign up for Assassin guide.
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post #11089 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy2 View Post

Phase control "normal" would be 0 degrees. If your sub doesn't a have LFE setting then don't worry about it as some don't. BTW is this sub powered?

Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is powered. I ran the Audyssey setup and everything sounds great. I can't get over the improvement over my older Onkyo TX-SR674.
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post #11090 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 01:27 PM
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I noticed most receivers list higher THD values for 6 ohm speakers compared to 8 ohm. Many times the THD for 8 ohms is shown as measured over the audible spectrum 20 to 20,000hz. On the other hand, 6 ohm measures (when they are provided at all), are often shown only measured at 1,000hz.

My question, are 6 ohm speakers inferior to 8 ohm due to the generally higher THD output? I ask because on some receivers (such as a few Yamaha I looked at) the THD was listed as 10% for 6 ohm speakers. My understanding is 1% THD is the point where it becomes audible for most folks? If so, it seems that any receiver that lists THD values higher than 1% for 6 ohm speakers, probably should not be used with these sort of speakers. (Note: my Denon 1712 manual lists THD measured under 1% for 6 ohms speakers measured at 1,000 hz.)

THD is confusing me because of how different the measured numbers are between receivers and the differences with 6/8 ohm speakers. Anyone know when to be concerned about THD?
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post #11091 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 01:40 PM
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As you already noted, when it goes above 1%. Mfr's power ratings can be inflated when using THD values > 1% to make them appear to be comparable to other more expensive models (this is especially true with lower priced HTIB setups). So in bold type the mfr can post 100W/CH, but in smaller print post THD of 10%, where the buyer is more likely to focus on the power rating and not the THD.

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post #11092 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 02:41 PM
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I purchased a refurbished Denon AVR-1712 from MacMall on 4/2/12 and it is randomly making a crackling and popping noise through the speakers. It also makes a thup-thup-thup noise when I turn the volume up and down.

I checked, double checked, triple checked, then quadruple checked my connections. I'm using banana plugs from monoprice, don't know if that means anything.

They are asking me to return it for store credit as that model is already sold out. Not thrilled about having to spend more money I don't have. Wondering if anyone else purchased theirs from MacMall and if so did you have any problems?
Customer Service Rep was nice though. Looks like these are my options;
AVR890, AVR3312CI, AVR2311CI.
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post #11093 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 02:42 PM
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Ok, Hope somebody can help me figure this one out.
I had my two front speakers in my livingroom biamped but decided to put a couple speakers on my front porch and use zone2 on my 1912 for that instead. So I turned off biamp and set it to zone2 in the settings. Set my home theater front l/r speakers back to work on a single amp channel each. I then ran the wires connected the outside speakers and got everything working...however the problem I am having is that I'm now having to raise the volume 15 to 20 steps higher than before the change to get the same volume levels on any source I have tried? This happens rather zone 2 is on or not...I think zone 2 is the same way, seems like I have to raise the level a lot higher than I should on it as well. Any idea what would cause this? I'm at a loss
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post #11094 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 02:54 PM
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Did you remember to replace the jumper on the FL/FR speaker posts?

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post #11095 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albert's Fish View Post

I purchased a refurbished Denon AVR-1712 from MacMall on 4/2/12 and it is randomly making a crackling and popping noise through the speakers. It also makes a thup-thup-thup noise when I turn the volume up and down.

I checked, double checked, triple checked, then quadruple checked my connections. I'm using banana plugs from monoprice, don't know if that means anything.

They are asking me to return it for store credit as that model is already sold out. Not thrilled about having to spend more money I don't have. Wondering if anyone else purchased theirs from MacMall and if so did you have any problems?
Customer Service Rep was nice though. Looks like these are my options;
AVR890, AVR3312CI, AVR2311CI.

Every vendor is bound to get a small % of defective units, in some cases it might be a result of poor handling by the shipper as HDMI boards are sensitive to jostling around. Did you try resetting the microprocessor (p. 96)?

Although it won't help you on this purchase, MacMall only provides a 90 day warranty on Denon AVR purchases while there are other refurb resellers that provide 1 year warranty. At the very least, check with your credit card provider as they may double the 90 days to 180 days (AMEX will do this for sure). If those models are your only options, the 3312CI is likely out of your budget and overkill, while the 2311CI would offer HDMI 1.4 capability, the 890 being 3 years old and only HDMI 1.3.

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post #11096 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Every vendor is bound to get a small % of defective units, in some cases it might be a result of poor handling by the shipper as HDMI boards are sensitive to jostling around. Did you try resetting the microprocessor (p. 96)?

Although it won't help you on this purchase, MacMall only provides a 90 day warranty on Denon AVR purchases while there are other refurb resellers that provide 1 year warranty. At the very least, check with your credit card provider as they may double the 90 days to 180 days (AMEX will do this for sure). If those models are your only options, the 3312CI is likely out of your budget and overkill, while the 2311CI would offer HDMI 1.4 capability, the 890 being 3 years old and only HDMI 1.3.

It's still under warranty. No problem there. It's just I don't have any money until next month.
I like the phono in on the 3312CI. I have a cheap preamp but I just believe a receiver should have a phono in. Call me crazy.
Would I be able to hook a seperate amp up to the 3312CI? I wouldn't be able to do that with the 2311CI correct?
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post #11097 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 03:34 PM
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Correct. The 33XX series is the lowest level with a full set of main zone preouts.

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post #11098 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

FY 11 (replaced by) FY 12 [The 3 digit models from previous years are no longer being continued]
391 -----------------> 1312 (avail as of May 2011)
591 -----------------> 1612 (avail as of May 2011)
1611 ----------------> 1712 [avail as of June 23 2011]
791 -----------------> 1912 (avail as of April 2011)
1911 ----------------> 2112CI (avail as of May 2011)
891 -----------------> (no replacement)
2311CI --------------> 2312CI (avail as of June 20 2011)
991 -----------------> (no replacement)
3311CI --------------> 3312CI (avail as of June 2011)
4311CI/4810CI-------> 4520CI (ETA Sep 2012, due to the earthquake in Japan in March 2011, the replacement for the 4311CI and 4810CI has been delayed to Sep 2012.)

As the, 8## and 9## were always the consumer version of the 23## and 33## CI's, it is only paritally true that they have no replacement, I think. Denon just merged them into the higher end units, no?

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post #11099 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 03:37 PM
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As the 3 digit models had fewer features then did their 4 digit counterparts, safe to say there was no replacement ... although in the end ... call it what you want.

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post #11100 of 19339 Old 04-20-2012, 03:42 PM
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The only real difference I think was the R-232 port and two remotes vs one but everything else was the same. To simplify and cut costs I presume Denon just elliminated them altogether because the differences were so slight and the price difference was $50.

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