The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 535 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:31 PM
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I can hardly believe that I am asking this question after using the 2312ci for 6 months or so. This whole DD, THX etc is confusing unless one dives deep into Wikipedia smile.gif

I have a 7.1 speaker system. My players (PS3, Sammy BD player) are set to bitstream, so that the 2312 will be doing the decoding.

For a typical modern BD or DVD, which will typically have DD (in various flavors), D True HD, THX or not (this is not a encoding protcol, right?) or whatever, which one should I select using the Movie button? I want to be true to what the movie director intended the soundscape to be like.

Is there a way to set this setting so that the "correct" setting will be selected by the receiver based on the disk being played?
This is also a question that comes up when channel surfing on my Dish system, when different channels or programs seem to be encoded differently.

If the incoming sound is shown to be 5.1 in the Denon display, what is the implication of selecting one of the DD + PL IIx to extend it to 7.1?
The answer is going to be subjective, but I'd like your opinion.

I'm being lazy here, but my family gets bugged by me playing with the Movie button on the remote for the first 5 min of every movie, trying out the various choices. I just want to set it and forget it.

TIA
Aloke
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:36 PM
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on my 1612 I press the direct button, from what I understand it bypasses all the sound modes?

I have to double check again because I swore I was playing a movie and it was DTS MA but in the channel menu only the front left and right was playing.. But I noticed today it was fine in direct.
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:09 PM
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Thanks Batpig,

Do you have any suggestions on a good sub? I keep hearing how important it is...

I will look around a bit at the smaller sized speaker setup then... I'm sure that I could find some pretty sweet deals. And thanks for that Craigslist link... I will follow up on that.

Thanks,
Ian

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Old 11-08-2012, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

What model AVR do you have? Do you use DD PLII to simulate 5.1 when watching SD channels or do you listen in stereo (FL/FR) only?


my model is the AVR-2312

when watching SD its just stereo (FR / FL)
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:34 AM
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The 2312CI features a custom set of 2CH Stereo settings (p. 107 OM) in which you can adjust the volume +/-12db for the FL/FR speakers. When the SD channel is playing, select the STEREO surround mode to engage these custom settings.

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Old 11-08-2012, 12:54 PM
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Well - here's my update (for those that are bored and know what I've experienced):
Replacement crossover arrived for one of my fronts. Replaced it, re-ran Audyssey: same EQ results (woefully off).
So I unplugged the fronts, unplugged my surrounds and plugged them into the front inputs on the AVR and moved the rear surrounds to the surround plugs. Re-ran audyssey: the EQ settings for the fronts (formerly the surrounds) ended up the same as when they were when plugged into the surrounds.
So is it the speakers or AVR?
I can't explain why the 3808 (which I've used twice when I've shipped out the 3312 for repair and had used for the past few years before getting the 3312) has a realistic EQ for the fronts and doesn't cause the tweeters to clip and why the 3312 does.

SO: I moved the surrounds and rear surrounds back to their speaker inputs, plugged the fronts back into the fronts, manually added the rear surrounds, set the crossovers on the rears, did NOT run audyssety and that's where i'm at.

No clipping in the tweeters now and I'm too darn scared to run audyssey again so I'll leave it in its Frankenstein state.

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Old 11-08-2012, 01:04 PM
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Wryker,

Sorry, I've forgotten: have you tried a replacement microphone?

Several people have reported getting anomalous Audyssey calibrations which were traced to defective microphones.

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Old 11-08-2012, 01:10 PM
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On the phone with Denon they said (and I would agree) if it was a faulty microphone it'd impact all the speakers and not just the fronts. It just makes no sense. I've replaced the tweeter and then the crossover: but still showing the lows and highs @-20!! So I'll keep it like it is now........and maybe buy an Onkyo or different model in the next couple years.
I've had at least 4 Denon's in a row and this is the first time something has happened and I only fear it's a sign of things to come.

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Old 11-08-2012, 01:22 PM
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you cant take it in for repair?
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:55 PM
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Closest center is several hundred miles away: and I've already shipped it to not one, but TWO Supercenters and they both found nothing wrong w/the AVR.

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Old 11-08-2012, 02:19 PM
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will denon swap you a new one, especially since they say the one you have is fine, they should have no problem taking the good one back.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrotel View Post

will denon swap you a new one, especially since they say the one you have is fine, they should have no problem taking the good one back.

I'm mustering up the strength to call them to do 'battle'. I've paid @$100 in shipping charges and when I call them I'm going to push for a new unit but not at my expense to ship it to them. This will be my 4-5 call in the last 4 months to them.

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Old 11-08-2012, 02:49 PM
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I recently purchased a 3312CI. I have 2 PS3's; one is a newer Slim and the other the older FAT. I'm trying to determine which to hook up to my Denon and which to relegate back up to the bedroom. For the purpose of audio quality, compatibility, and configurations, which unit would be better suited to connect to the Denon? From what I read, the Slim has the bitstream option, the Fat does not. I also read that the only real noticeable difference in having the bitstream enabled on the PS3 is to see the cool little display lights on the AVR light up, and perhaps some secondary audio for menu actions and possible special feature commentary. I've read through a number of AVS threads and most say that there is not audible difference in sound quality. True/False (from your experience)?

Recommendations needed:

Option 1) PS3 Fat --> Denon 3312CI
Option 2) PS3 Slim --> Denon 3312CI

Thanks in advance, and this will probably not be the last time this thread hears from me.

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Old 11-08-2012, 02:58 PM
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^^^

there's no reason to believe there would be a sound quality difference one way or the other...

you've already figured out the "fancy lights" difference, so that's good... smile.gif

i'd use the slim in whatever location gets the most use... simply because it likely runs cooler...

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Old 11-08-2012, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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It's true, there isn't any difference in sound quality. It doesn't matter where the audio is 'unpacked'.

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Old 11-08-2012, 09:38 PM
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Hi all,
I was having issues with HDMI sound with cable box, but resetting to default setup fixed the issue.
However, now I have another issue. I had not plugged in my sub yet (energy), couldnt find the cable smile.gif . Hooked it up today but there is no sound from sub. Tried the Audyssey auto setup too, it does not find Sub. Tried manual setup for Sub, still now sound. Its completely dead. Just to make sure, I hooked the sub to my old Onkyo and it is working fine.
Is it possible that I have a faulty AMP? is there any settings I am missing? Please help!
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:15 AM
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If the sub has an ON/AUTO/OFF switch, set it to ON rather than AUTO. Make sure it is securely fitted at each end into the sub and AVR. Try resetting the microprocessor again. If still no joy, then the unit will likely need to be repaired.

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Old 11-09-2012, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

If the sub has an ON/AUTO/OFF switch, set it to ON rather than AUTO. Make sure it is securely fitted at each end into the sub and AVR. Try resetting the microprocessor again. If still no joy, then the unit will likely need to be repaired.
Thanks, it was a settings Issue. The Audysseyy setup had set the front speakers as Large during auto config and thus, it turned off the sub. I manually set the speakers to small and was able to get the sub working.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:41 AM
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I know there's lots of information out here with regards to the AVR 1312 (and other AVR) and handshake issues with cableboxes and such. I had a AVR 391 prior to January when lightning hit my house (and sent me on a electronics shopping spree!), and I replaced it with a 1312 simply because it was the equal replacement. I had minor handshake issues with the 391, but they seem worse with the 1312, and seem to be getting progressively worse. Quite often I have to turn everything off and on, but i'm noticing lately that I get sound dropping out when connected to the PS3. No video issues, though. All connected with latest HDMI cables.

Went to Best Buy and asked them about this, and they recommended adding a Monster Power Surge thingy that supposedly eliminates power fluctuations... any sense to that?

Do any of the higher-end models resolve any of the handshake issues, or does the blame still goes to the Cablebox / PS3?
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nautilus11 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

If the sub has an ON/AUTO/OFF switch, set it to ON rather than AUTO. Make sure it is securely fitted at each end into the sub and AVR. Try resetting the microprocessor again. If still no joy, then the unit will likely need to be repaired.
Thanks, it was a settings Issue. The Audysseyy setup had set the front speakers as Large during auto config and thus, it turned off the sub. I manually set the speakers to small and was able to get the sub working.

this may seem like semantics, but it's not...

a) "audyssey" doesn't set speaker sizes/xovers, the avr does...

b) setting your speakers to large doesn't "turn off" the sub... it simply does not engage bass management... different, although the results are the same...

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Old 11-09-2012, 07:01 PM
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im getting my second f12 tomorrow so ill be setting up dual subs with a denon 1712. i got the splitter cable plus two cables one for each sub.

im not exactly sure how to do this regarding audyssey.

since my receiver cant do two subs. this is my thinking on how to do this.

i connect one sub to the avr. i then run the first step in audyssey and get the sub to +/-3, then disconnect it.

then i connect the second sub, run audyssey again getting it to +/-3. do both subs have to get audyssey to determine the same decible? for example, if the first sub was set by audyssey at say +2. I need to get the second sub set by audyssey to +2?

after i get the subs dialed in i connect both subs with the splitter and run all audyssey positions?

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Old 11-09-2012, 07:02 PM
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^ wondering about that too
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:42 PM
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My understanding from reading the Audyssey thread is that you should have both subs powered on and active, connected using the Y cable when you run Audyssey. The room correction has to be done with the audio environment that you'll be listening to.

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Old 11-09-2012, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

My understanding from reading the Audyssey thread is that you should have both subs powered on and active, connected using the Y cable when you run Audyssey. The room correction has to be done with the audio environment that you'll be listening to.

maybe with your reading youre talking about one of those .2 receivers that can configure two subs at once? my 1712 cant do that.

my confusion is if both subs are powered on using the splitter when running audyssey, how do you know which sub you have to raise or lower the volume on the back of the sub (gain i think they call it), and get audyssey to get both equal regarding decible. i just dont see how running audyssey with two subs connected at the same time is going to work. i just want to know how to do it correctly

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Old 11-09-2012, 09:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Selden - he is just talking about using audyssey to level match the subs independently as an initial step, and then once they are level matched he would connect both with a y splitter and do the full calibration. That is a good procedure if you don't have an spl meter.

Bradymartin - if you do this try and keep the subs relatively equidistant from the listening zone and try to get them as close as possible. 3db may not sound like much but it requires about double the power! And if one sub is much closer than the other you may end up with very different levels (the closer one not having to play as loud). Ideally both subs would "share the load" as equally as possible. So if you get them physically equidistant, and get them level matched within 1-2db, you should be fine.

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Old 11-09-2012, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Selden - he is just talking about using audyssey to level match the subs independently as an initial step, and then once they are level matched he would connect both with a y splitter and do the full calibration. That is a good procedure if you don't have an spl meter.
Bradymartin - if you do this try and keep the subs relatively equidistant from the listening zone and try to get them as close as possible. 3db may not sound like much but it requires about double the power! And if one sub is much closer than the other you may end up with very different levels (the closer one not having to play as loud). Ideally both subs would "share the load" as equally as possible. So if you get them physically equidistant, and get them level matched within 1-2db, you should be fine.

i have no desire or want to buy an spl meter and need to use a computer to do this. feck more confusion. i am relying on audyssey.

both f12s will be in front corners of the room next to the tv, outside the front tower speakers. the distance from both subs to primary listening position should be almost identical.

"3db may not sound like much but it requires about double the power!"
now im lost and confused, again. should i get the subs at -3 or just 0 but not close to 3?

i think i should have used the term level match since you brought it up. so when i do this tomorrow am i right in how to get the two subs dialed in without spl meter? i. el using audyssey to level match the subs independently etc.?

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Old 11-09-2012, 10:41 PM
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I've 1912 receiver and Pioneer FS51 floor speaker with SW-8 subwoofer. I tried multiple settings to make 2.1 channel work on MAIN zone, but it seems it is not working and sound is same a TV speakers. Then I tried to configure 2.1 channel for zone-2. This is giving better sound, but subwoofer is not giving any sound.

Question: What is configuration to make it work as 2.1 channel in main zone. If that is not possible, what is configuration to make 2.1 channel work in zone-2. If that is not possible, should I return subwoofer as it is not producing any sound?

Note: I'm planning to add remaining speakers latter on, as currently living in apt and having 5.1 or 7.1 does not make much sense.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:06 AM
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I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but I'm trying to connect a external amp to the center channel pre out, a single rca on my 3312

Do i connect the left and right from the stereo amp to the single center rca and the "matching" sub rca?

Do i only have to run one rca to the single center channel connecting the pre out and either the left or right on the amp?

Do i need some kind of y splitter?

I cant seem to figure it out.
thanks
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alokeprasad View Post

I can hardly believe that I am asking this question after using the 2312ci for 6 months or so. This whole DD, THX etc is confusing unless one dives deep into Wikipedia smile.gif
I have a 7.1 speaker system. My players (PS3, Sammy BD player) are set to bitstream, so that the 2312 will be doing the decoding.
For a typical modern BD or DVD, which will typically have DD (in various flavors), D True HD, THX or not (this is not a encoding protcol, right?) or whatever, which one should I select using the Movie button? I want to be true to what the movie director intended the soundscape to be like.
Is there a way to set this setting so that the "correct" setting will be selected by the receiver based on the disk being played?
This is also a question that comes up when channel surfing on my Dish system, when different channels or programs seem to be encoded differently.
If the incoming sound is shown to be 5.1 in the Denon display, what is the implication of selecting one of the DD + PL IIx to extend it to 7.1?
The answer is going to be subjective, but I'd like your opinion.
I'm being lazy here, but my family gets bugged by me playing with the Movie button on the remote for the first 5 min of every movie, trying out the various choices. I just want to set it and forget it.
TIA
Aloke
Nothing?

Oh well, back to experimentation ... and reading.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:20 AM
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Aloke,

Suggestion: leave Prologic enabled. That way all of your speakers will always be active, even when a movie's soundtrack includes fewer channels. Although that's not necessarily "what the director intended", it usually makes movies more enjoyable. If your 7.1 speakers are properly located, the side-surrounds will be positioned to the side instead of slightly to the rear, as is the norm for 5.1 speakers. Having audio come from the rear-surrounds compensates for this difference.

If you use a disc's Setup menu, you can make the choice of audio track before starting the movie, minimizing audience annoyance. When movie discs include two versions of the primary soundtrack (usually a lossy format in addition to a lossless format) that's most often so they'll be usable with older receivers and pre/pros which cannot decode one of those formats. If you have modern equipment, select the highest quality audio track. Usually that's the default on the disc, but sometimes it isn't.

In some cases, the choice is available simply so you can pick the one you want to listen to. Some concert DVDs, for example, include both a lossy DD 5.1 track and a lossless two-channel LPCM track. Some people prefer the surround-sound provided by 5.1, while others prefer the apparent accuracy provided by the stereo track. Depending on the bitrate of the DD track, the difference in accuracy might not be audible.

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