The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 541 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16201 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhinehart View Post

My initial reaction to connecting and testing the receiver for the first time is "lack of power". I am going to run through the setup Wizard today (just connected it last night and only tested briefly with no real setup). Maybe things will get better, but I had to turn it up to 75% to get even reasonable volume compared to my old Onkyo. I am a little concerned.

Average volume: TV (-35db to -25db); Music/movies (-25db to -15db)

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post #16202 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Most of the heat from the 3312CI is generated by the video chip on the front left side of the unit. The unit will draw about 85W without a load from the speakers and about 95W-100W at reference volume using the internal amps (ie. not much difference). The 1910 has no video chip so will always run much cooler than the 3312CI.

Thank you JD for the helpful information. It just happens that I had mounted the fan to the left side of the AVR, as the power cord connection is there, I figured that side would likely generate the most heat, not knowing about the video chip. The fan seems to do the trick for now. Fortunately I was able to find one that is totally silent. Thanks again.

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post #16203 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

The number on the volume display has nothing to do with power. It's about gain structures and volume control design. Modern digital receivers use a digital, logarithmic volume display. It's not like "the good old days" with a linear pot volume control where turning it up 1/2 way would blow the roof off.
Run audyssey and enjoy, and don't worry about the number on the display. All that matters is that it can get as loud as you want it to go. And remember to turn off dynamic volume if you are trying to crank it.

Good advice (running Audyssey). The problem was that I had not yet connected the sub during my initial listen. I connected the sub, followed the instructions to run Audyssey, and am pleased with the result. Now if the mount for my new projector would arrive I could finally have my theater room put back together!
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post #16204 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

You can have EITHER option 1 OR options 2/3 but not both. For option 1 you'll want to change AMP ASSIGN to "Front B".

Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.

Also, the inputs will only remain the same as long as zone 2 is set to "Source." I have noticed on my 3311 that, if I happen to change the input for zone 2 (via remote or web controller), I have to remember to return the input to "Source" in order for it to follow the changes in main zone input. I have often wondered, although it may seem counterintuitive, whether there is some way to avoid this snag (e.g., the source select input for zone 2 of "source" would remain as the default regardless of the current selection and would override the current selection (if different) anytime the input were changed in the main zone).

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post #16205 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 08:57 AM
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Hi

This is my first post on Recievers and hope this is the right place to post this. I am in the market to buy a low to mid range av recievers and after reading through various post and sites have zeroed in on Denon 2312CI model with Energy 5.1 Classic take speakers. The model is selling for $599 at crutchfield , is it worth to buy at this price or can I expect to see this go down further? ....given that it is a discontinued model.
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post #16206 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 02:27 PM
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I just hooked up a Denon 1712 and all is fine when everything in/out is HDMI but I cannot get component out to work.

II was hoping to use HDMI out to my projector and component out to my tv.

Any hints on how to enable component out? Out of the box it is not working. Tried it on multiple devices - no luck.
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post #16207 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 02:30 PM
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^^^

no can do... no avr will convert a hdmi input to a component output... it's against "the rules"...

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332917/ccotenj-finally-gets-a-projector

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post #16208 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 02:41 PM
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Thanks - I should have known that...

Any way to use both a projector and a tv with the 1712?

in other words dvd > avr > projector or tv

thanks
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post #16209 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 02:50 PM
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^^^

yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332917/ccotenj-finally-gets-a-projector

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post #16210 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?

I suspect/hope the answer is 'close enough'

Project = Epson710HD
TV = Hitachi 42HDS69 plasma

I will try an hdmi switch

thanks
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post #16211 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 04:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post

Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.

Right, which is why JD said in order to accomplish #1 he would have to change his configuration to "B" speakers. That's a distinct configuration from Zone 2.

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post #16212 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Right, which is why JD said in order to accomplish #1 he would have to change his configuration to "B" speakers. That's a distinct configuration from Zone 2.

Sorry, I missed that. That's actually how I had my "quasi-zone 2" set up before I changed my main zone set-up from 5.1 to 7.1, so I should have recognized the solution he was referring to!

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post #16213 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhlakes View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?

I suspect/hope the answer is 'close enough'

Project = Epson710HD
TV = Hitachi 42HDS69 plasma

I will try an hdmi switch

thanks

man, i haven't come across one of those funky hitachi "alis" displays in awhile... iirc, the only "fixed pixel" display that is actually natively interlaced....

the pj will accept up to a 1080p signal (it will always display at 720p, regardless)...

the display will accept up to a 1080i signal (and display at 1080i)...

so... the source connected to the avr and then through a basic hdmi splitter will "see" both, and handshake at a maximum of 1080i...

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332917/ccotenj-finally-gets-a-projector

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post #16214 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 10:46 PM
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Hi.

Just got my ave-2312CI! Very cool

Couple of questions.

1) THe manual says not to connect an iPad via USB, but the literature for the receiver says it can play a directly connected iPad. Is it OK to connect an iPad to it?

2) Where do I enter my username and password for Pandora?

Thanks,

Allan

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post #16215 of 19657 Old 11-24-2012, 10:49 PM
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whoops, I just figured out about Pandora. I got a refurbished unit and it had the previous owner's info.

Still curious about the iPad.

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post #16216 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:08 AM
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Anyone using the new Dish Hopper DVR?

I'd like to know the remote code for the 2312ci that will work with the Dish remote control. Teaching the Dish remote was not successful.

I don't want to buy or use a Harmony remote. Most activities use the Dish DVR functions and learning how to do all of those on a Harmony remote will be tedious. Getting the Dish remote to Mute, Volume-up, Volume-down on the 2312ci will cover 90% of my needs.

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post #16217 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post

Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.

When using the Zone 2 speakers setup as "Front B", the speakers mirror what is played on the Front A speakers, so volume control would be the same for both Zones in this instance, noting that "Front B" setting does not allow for independent source or volume.

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post #16218 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yel View Post

Hi
This is my first post on Recievers and hope this is the right place to post this. I am in the market to buy a low to mid range av recievers and after reading through various post and sites have zeroed in on Denon 2312CI model with Energy 5.1 Classic take speakers. The model is selling for $599 at crutchfield , is it worth to buy at this price or can I expect to see this go down further? ....given that it is a discontinued model.

It could very well go lower. Check your local area Best Buy stores as they will often offer 50-75% off if the units have been laying around too long. Although unless you need a specific feature on the 2312CI not offered on the 2112CI, the 2112CI would be a comparable unit at less cost.

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post #16219 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alokeprasad View Post

Anyone using the new Dish Hopper DVR?
I'd like to know the remote code for the 2312ci that will work with the Dish remote control. Teaching the Dish remote was not successful.
I don't want to buy or use a Harmony remote. Most activities use the Dish DVR functions and learning how to do all of those on a Harmony remote will be tedious. Getting the Dish remote to Mute, Volume-up, Volume-down on the 2312ci will cover 90% of my needs.
Aloke
I'm answering my own Q here, but I found this info on thesatteliteguys forum.

Try 1360 code for Denon receivers. It worked for me!! Yay!
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post #16220 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhlakes View Post

I just hooked up a Denon 1712 and all is fine when everything in/out is HDMI but I cannot get component out to work.
II was hoping to use HDMI out to my projector and component out to my tv.
Any hints on how to enable component out? Out of the box it is not working. Tried it on multiple devices - no luck.

As Chris notes, not possible with the AVR, rather you'll need to either (1) connect the source to the AVR via component video input, or (2) use a 3rd party HDMI--> component converter.

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post #16221 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alokeprasad View Post

I'm answering my own Q here, but I found this info on thesatteliteguys forum.
Try 1360 code for Denon receivers. It worked for me!! Yay!

Great! Thanks for the followup. smile.gif

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post #16222 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanMarcus View Post

Hi.
Just got my ave-2312CI! Very cool
Couple of questions.
1) THe manual says not to connect an iPad via USB, but the literature for the receiver says it can play a directly connected iPad. Is it OK to connect an iPad to it?
2) Where do I enter my username and password for Pandora?
Thanks,
Allan

The iPad works on the XX13 models so give it a try on your 2312CI. It will either work or it won't.

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Daily - 8am to 8pm EST
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post #16223 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:27 AM
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Is this to get the audio only or audio+video from the iPad to the screen?

Airplay is pretty good for audio-only connection.

Apple sells cables that'll output both via HDMI. It is not cheap, though frown.gif
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post #16224 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:35 AM
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^^^

not gonna get video that way... you need to use the hdmi cable for that to work....

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332917/ccotenj-finally-gets-a-projector

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post #16225 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 06:42 AM
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Just wanted to find out that attaching the iPad via USB will only get you audio.

Airplay is preferred way to do that, IMO.
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post #16226 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 09:31 AM
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I've just gotten a Denon 1612 and I'm having trouble getting the ARC to work with my LG CS570. I have done my best to follow all of the steps in the troubleshooting guide. Hopefully I'm missing something simple, but I can't see what it is.

I have HDMI control on and audio out set to amp. The Simplink control from the TV appears to be working, which is to say that the HT speakers appear in the Simplink menu, the TV volume control changes the volume on the AVR, and turning the TV power off turns off the AVR, but I don't get any sound. The AVR also comes on in TV mode as it should.

The one thing that seems funny to me is in the setup wizard for TV the only option I could select for audio connection was optical cable. Then looking at the Input Assign screen, TV shows "---" under HDMI and "OPT" under Digital. Changing the Digital option to "None" also does not fix the problem.

Any help would certainly be appreciated.
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post #16227 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alokeprasad View Post

Is this to get the audio only or audio+video from the iPad to the screen?
Airplay is pretty good for audio-only connection.
Apple sells cables that'll output both via HDMI. It is not cheap, though frown.gif

Apple tv will let you send audio and video wireless. Very convenient and cool and relatively inexpensive.
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post #16228 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uolmir View Post

I've just gotten a Denon 1612 and I'm having trouble getting the ARC to work with my LG CS570. I have done my best to follow all of the steps in the troubleshooting guide. Hopefully I'm missing something simple, but I can't see what it is.
I have HDMI control on and audio out set to amp. The Simplink control from the TV appears to be working, which is to say that the HT speakers appear in the Simplink menu, the TV volume control changes the volume on the AVR, and turning the TV power off turns off the AVR, but I don't get any sound. The AVR also comes on in TV mode as it should.
The one thing that seems funny to me is in the setup wizard for TV the only option I could select for audio connection was optical cable. Then looking at the Input Assign screen, TV shows "---" under HDMI and "OPT" under Digital. Changing the Digital option to "None" also does not fix the problem.
Any help would certainly be appreciated.

I've also tried each of the available HDMI inputs on the TV with the same outcome. The behavior is also the same whether I am watching the coax TV signal or an HDMI source through the TV. Finally, this is definitely an ARC problem, as everything works normally watching an HDMI source through the AVR.
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post #16229 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

When using the Zone 2 speakers setup as "Front B", the speakers mirror what is played on the Front A speakers, so volume control would be the same for both Zones in this instance, noting that "Front B" setting does not allow for independent source or volume.

This is helpful and what I was looking for...the only issue is that switching from A to B to A+B is nested all the way in the menus.

Is there an easy way, either on the remote or through a Quick Input setting or something like that, to set whether it splaying A,B or A+B without having to drill all the way down in the menus?

Thanks!
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post #16230 of 19657 Old 11-25-2012, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?

I got a Rocketfish splitter at Best Buy and all works great. Thanks for your help.

It is amazing what you can put together today for cheap money. I have an older humongous Sony 1252 3 tube CRT with a Faraudja LD100 that I bought used 10+ years ago up at my cottage. It literally cost more to have that old system cleaned/focused than it does to buy this new stuff that just works out of the box.
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