The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 541 - AVS Forum
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post #16201 of 19258 Old 11-23-2012, 08:43 AM
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Heat issue with 3312

Short story: I recently add an external amp running off my 3312ci and am surprised how much heat the AVR produces considering it is not driving any speakers. Is there something else I need to do other then moving the speaker wires to the Emo XPA-5 ?? Is there some way to turn off the 3312's internal amplifiers?

Long story... I had been running a Denon 1910 for several years and had it inside an open back A/V cabinet. The AVR barely got warm, however I would always leave the glass front doors open when using it. Several months ago I upgraded to the 3312 and configured it exactly as the 1910, plug for plug, wire per wire, and essentially identical settings. Not surprisingly, the 3312 was a little bit warmer than the 1910 (125wpc vs 90wpc) however still was not uncomfortably warm.

Last weekend I added an external Emotiva XPA-5 to drive the five main channels, but now the 3312 seems to run extremely hot. It was no longer enough to keep the doors open and I had to add a cooling fan to the cabinet. I cannot find any menu settings in the Denon setup menu regarding use of an external amp, nor any special considerations mentioned in the manual.

BTW the Emo amp is outside the A/V cabinet and is not heating the interior. Funny, but the Emo barely gets warm and is driving all the speakers, while the Denon gets red hot and not driving any speakers. Would the 3312 be happier if I added some dummy resistors across the now empty speaker posts? If the Denon is going to drive its internal amps anyway, should I use the Denon in addition to the Emo to bi-amp my speakers, just to keep it cooler?

I had always believed that heat resulted from current running thru a resistive load. In this case there is infinite resistance and would therefore expect current flow to be minimal. Thanks for any insight into this.

Polk RtiA9's, Denon 3312ci & Emo XPA-5 amp, CsiA6, RtiA7 surrounds, FxiA6 rears, twin Klipsch Synergy Sub-12's, DSW660 & Lsi9's upstairs
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post #16202 of 19258 Old 11-23-2012, 10:31 AM
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I am having some problems with the Zone 2 Function.

I have hooked it up using Analog.

Now Im trying to figure out how to do the following: It seems there are a couple of different scenarios of how youd want to control the two zones. I am totally confused about which of these I can / cannot do, and how:
1. Have both Zones on same input and same volume / volume control (i.e. turning the volume up or down adjusts volume simultaneously on both)
2. Both Zones on same input with independent volume settings and control
3. Each Zone on a different input (and obviously for this one you would want independent volume)

Most of the time I will want #1 - is it possible to just have each Zone stay in synch in terms of volume and adjustment?

If Id like to do #2 - how do I separately adjust the volume for each Zone when using the same input?

#3 seems like you can select different inputs from the remote when you first hit the Zone button.although Im not sure if thats right. Also, once this is done, lets say I now want to leave a CD playing in Zone 2 but want to switch Zone 1 to TV/cable box. How would I do this?

Thanks for guiding me to the answer!
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post #16203 of 19258 Old 11-23-2012, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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@ Lirong -

Both #2 and #3 are normal Zone 2 function. Source and volume are always independent, but you can still tune both zones to the same source. Your #1 isn't the way zones work (the whole point is independence).

The volume and source control are really easy, you just need to make sure the remote is set for the zone you are trying to control and then change source or the volume. Nothing special needed. The web control and/or smartphone app are even easier.

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post #16204 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 01:24 AM
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I've read through Batpig's very helpful FAQ (as well as posts 1-6), but didn't seem to find the topic of two input types connected to the same logical input (e.g. HDMI and composite on CBL/SAT):
For what it's worth, I'm using a Denon AVR-2112CI

Although this also applies to the DVD input with composite/component, I'll focus on the CBL/SAT situation. I have my AT&T U-verse STB plugged in via HDMI on HDMI 3 (CBL/SAT). Video and audio are passed correctly, and everything's great. This evening I dug out my old LaserDisc player (Denon LA-2300), and plugged it into the composite port labeled CBL/SAT, as well as the Monitor Out to the composite port on my display. Audio seems to work correctly, as it's going from LD -> AC-3/RF Demodulator -> Coax on receiver (mapped correctly to CBL/SAT).

Basically what I'm asking is how to handle situations where the same input contains both HDMI and composite/component. In particular, cases where it's HDMI and Composite, and the Monitor Out is being used for composite. My previous Onkyo 607 receiver handled this without issue (or requiring any sort of mode change on the AVR - simply tune to the right input on the display, and it displayed).

Connection diagram:

DVR -> HDMI -> Denon AVR (CBL/SAT on HDMI 3) -> HDMI out -> Panasonic TC-P55ST30
-- Audio and video are displayed and audible with no issues

LD video -> composite -> Denon AVR (CBL/SAT composite terminal) -> Monitor Out (composite terminal) -> Panasonic TC-P55ST30
-- Cannot see any video displayed when tuning to Composite input on display

LD audio -> digital coax -> Kenwood AC-3/RF Demodulator -> digital coax -> Denon AVR (Digital Coax terminal mapped to CBL/SAT)
-- Audio plays back correctly with no issue. Used Star Wars Trilogy SE (Side 4) and the proper AC-3 signal was detected and played when the Denon AVR was tuned to CBL/SAT
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post #16205 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:15 AM
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Unplug the DVR (HDMI) from the SAT/CBL input and get the LD to work correctly via the composite video input/output as the issue may be with the LD itself.

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post #16206 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lirong View Post

I am having some problems with the Zone 2 Function.
I have hooked it up using Analog.
Now Im trying to figure out how to do the following: It seems there are a couple of different scenarios of how youd want to control the two zones. I am totally confused about which of these I can / cannot do, and how:
1. Have both Zones on same input and same volume / volume control (i.e. turning the volume up or down adjusts volume simultaneously on both)
2. Both Zones on same input with independent volume settings and control
3. Each Zone on a different input (and obviously for this one you would want independent volume)
Most of the time I will want #1 - is it possible to just have each Zone stay in synch in terms of volume and adjustment?
If Id like to do #2 - how do I separately adjust the volume for each Zone when using the same input?
#3 seems like you can select different inputs from the remote when you first hit the Zone button.although Im not sure if thats right. Also, once this is done, lets say I now want to leave a CD playing in Zone 2 but want to switch Zone 1 to TV/cable box. How would I do this?
Thanks for guiding me to the answer!

You can have EITHER option 1 OR options 2/3 but not both. For option 1 you'll want to change AMP ASSIGN to "Front B".

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post #16207 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobLee View Post

Heat issue with 3312
Short story: I recently add an external amp running off my 3312ci and am surprised how much heat the AVR produces considering it is not driving any speakers. Is there something else I need to do other then moving the speaker wires to the Emo XPA-5 ?? Is there some way to turn off the 3312's internal amplifiers?
Long story... I had been running a Denon 1910 for several years and had it inside an open back A/V cabinet. The AVR barely got warm, however I would always leave the glass front doors open when using it. Several months ago I upgraded to the 3312 and configured it exactly as the 1910, plug for plug, wire per wire, and essentially identical settings. Not surprisingly, the 3312 was a little bit warmer than the 1910 (125wpc vs 90wpc) however still was not uncomfortably warm.
Last weekend I added an external Emotiva XPA-5 to drive the five main channels, but now the 3312 seems to run extremely hot. It was no longer enough to keep the doors open and I had to add a cooling fan to the cabinet. I cannot find any menu settings in the Denon setup menu regarding use of an external amp, nor any special considerations mentioned in the manual.
BTW the Emo amp is outside the A/V cabinet and is not heating the interior. Funny, but the Emo barely gets warm and is driving all the speakers, while the Denon gets red hot and not driving any speakers. Would the 3312 be happier if I added some dummy resistors across the now empty speaker posts? If the Denon is going to drive its internal amps anyway, should I use the Denon in addition to the Emo to bi-amp my speakers, just to keep it cooler?
I had always believed that heat resulted from current running thru a resistive load. In this case there is infinite resistance and would therefore expect current flow to be minimal. Thanks for any insight into this.

The 3312CI's amps will remain ON regardless of whether you're using them or not and there is no way to disable them. Most of the heat from the 3312CI is generated by the video chip on the front left side of the unit. The unit will draw about 85W without a load from the speakers and about 95W-100W at reference volume using the internal amps (ie. not much difference). The 1910 has no video chip so will always run much cooler than the 3312CI. Bi-amping is not likely to resolve your heat issue.

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post #16208 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fusecon View Post

I've encountered an HDMI problem with my AVR-2112CI. I've done some initial searching but found no "real" solution other than unplug and replug everything.
Here are the details:
AVR-2112CI (maybe 6 months old)
DISH SAT -> Receiver -> TV
Panasonic BD35 -> Receiver -> TV
The Panasonic pukes and gives U73 error code (HDMI issue). No video.
DISH will allow audio but no video.
No cables touched or setups changes, the receiver started flaking out today.
I've unplugged and replugged and got TV working for a bit but then it went away. Initially seemed like lose connection.
I'm wondering if this is a HW failure (suspect) or maybe some firmware upgrade will work.
Any ideas or links to potential solutions?
Thanks,
-dan

This issue is more likely the result of a recent firmware update to the Dish box. As is often suggested with cable/sat boxes (which are not designed to be connected to an AVR), and in fact often configured by a Dish installer, connect the Dish (HDMI) directly to the TV with Dish (optical) to the AVR.

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post #16209 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocelittle View Post

I'm still sitting with my Onkyo 7.1 set up (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882120088&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA - configured in 5.1 right now), and would love to start upgrading my speakers.
What are some speakers that work well with the 1712? I have my eye on these...

You'll be better served posting "speaker" related questions in the Speakers forum.

http://www.avsforum.com/f/89/speakers

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post #16210 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhinehart View Post

My initial reaction to connecting and testing the receiver for the first time is "lack of power". I am going to run through the setup Wizard today (just connected it last night and only tested briefly with no real setup). Maybe things will get better, but I had to turn it up to 75% to get even reasonable volume compared to my old Onkyo. I am a little concerned.

Average volume: TV (-35db to -25db); Music/movies (-25db to -15db)

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post #16211 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Most of the heat from the 3312CI is generated by the video chip on the front left side of the unit. The unit will draw about 85W without a load from the speakers and about 95W-100W at reference volume using the internal amps (ie. not much difference). The 1910 has no video chip so will always run much cooler than the 3312CI.

Thank you JD for the helpful information. It just happens that I had mounted the fan to the left side of the AVR, as the power cord connection is there, I figured that side would likely generate the most heat, not knowing about the video chip. The fan seems to do the trick for now. Fortunately I was able to find one that is totally silent. Thanks again.

Polk RtiA9's, Denon 3312ci & Emo XPA-5 amp, CsiA6, RtiA7 surrounds, FxiA6 rears, twin Klipsch Synergy Sub-12's, DSW660 & Lsi9's upstairs
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post #16212 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

The number on the volume display has nothing to do with power. It's about gain structures and volume control design. Modern digital receivers use a digital, logarithmic volume display. It's not like "the good old days" with a linear pot volume control where turning it up 1/2 way would blow the roof off.
Run audyssey and enjoy, and don't worry about the number on the display. All that matters is that it can get as loud as you want it to go. And remember to turn off dynamic volume if you are trying to crank it.

Good advice (running Audyssey). The problem was that I had not yet connected the sub during my initial listen. I connected the sub, followed the instructions to run Audyssey, and am pleased with the result. Now if the mount for my new projector would arrive I could finally have my theater room put back together!
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post #16213 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

You can have EITHER option 1 OR options 2/3 but not both. For option 1 you'll want to change AMP ASSIGN to "Front B".

Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.

Also, the inputs will only remain the same as long as zone 2 is set to "Source." I have noticed on my 3311 that, if I happen to change the input for zone 2 (via remote or web controller), I have to remember to return the input to "Source" in order for it to follow the changes in main zone input. I have often wondered, although it may seem counterintuitive, whether there is some way to avoid this snag (e.g., the source select input for zone 2 of "source" would remain as the default regardless of the current selection and would override the current selection (if different) anytime the input were changed in the main zone).
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post #16214 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 08:57 AM
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Hi

This is my first post on Recievers and hope this is the right place to post this. I am in the market to buy a low to mid range av recievers and after reading through various post and sites have zeroed in on Denon 2312CI model with Energy 5.1 Classic take speakers. The model is selling for $599 at crutchfield , is it worth to buy at this price or can I expect to see this go down further? ....given that it is a discontinued model.
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post #16215 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:27 PM
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I just hooked up a Denon 1712 and all is fine when everything in/out is HDMI but I cannot get component out to work.

II was hoping to use HDMI out to my projector and component out to my tv.

Any hints on how to enable component out? Out of the box it is not working. Tried it on multiple devices - no luck.
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post #16216 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:30 PM
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^^^

no can do... no avr will convert a hdmi input to a component output... it's against "the rules"...

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 


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post #16217 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:41 PM
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Thanks - I should have known that...

Any way to use both a projector and a tv with the 1712?

in other words dvd > avr > projector or tv

thanks
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post #16218 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 02:50 PM
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^^^

yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 


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post #16219 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?

I suspect/hope the answer is 'close enough'

Project = Epson710HD
TV = Hitachi 42HDS69 plasma

I will try an hdmi switch

thanks
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post #16220 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 04:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post

Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.

Right, which is why JD said in order to accomplish #1 he would have to change his configuration to "B" speakers. That's a distinct configuration from Zone 2.

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post #16221 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Right, which is why JD said in order to accomplish #1 he would have to change his configuration to "B" speakers. That's a distinct configuration from Zone 2.

Sorry, I missed that. That's actually how I had my "quasi-zone 2" set up before I changed my main zone set-up from 5.1 to 7.1, so I should have recognized the solution he was referring to!
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post #16222 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhlakes View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?

I suspect/hope the answer is 'close enough'

Project = Epson710HD
TV = Hitachi 42HDS69 plasma

I will try an hdmi switch

thanks

man, i haven't come across one of those funky hitachi "alis" displays in awhile... iirc, the only "fixed pixel" display that is actually natively interlaced....

the pj will accept up to a 1080p signal (it will always display at 720p, regardless)...

the display will accept up to a 1080i signal (and display at 1080i)...

so... the source connected to the avr and then through a basic hdmi splitter will "see" both, and handshake at a maximum of 1080i...

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 


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post #16223 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 10:46 PM
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Hi.

Just got my ave-2312CI! Very cool

Couple of questions.

1) THe manual says not to connect an iPad via USB, but the literature for the receiver says it can play a directly connected iPad. Is it OK to connect an iPad to it?

2) Where do I enter my username and password for Pandora?

Thanks,

Allan


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post #16224 of 19258 Old 11-24-2012, 10:49 PM
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whoops, I just figured out about Pandora. I got a refurbished unit and it had the previous owner's info.

Still curious about the iPad.


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post #16225 of 19258 Old 11-25-2012, 06:08 AM
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Anyone using the new Dish Hopper DVR?

I'd like to know the remote code for the 2312ci that will work with the Dish remote control. Teaching the Dish remote was not successful.

I don't want to buy or use a Harmony remote. Most activities use the Dish DVR functions and learning how to do all of those on a Harmony remote will be tedious. Getting the Dish remote to Mute, Volume-up, Volume-down on the 2312ci will cover 90% of my needs.

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post #16226 of 19258 Old 11-25-2012, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post

Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.

When using the Zone 2 speakers setup as "Front B", the speakers mirror what is played on the Front A speakers, so volume control would be the same for both Zones in this instance, noting that "Front B" setting does not allow for independent source or volume.

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post #16227 of 19258 Old 11-25-2012, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yel View Post

Hi
This is my first post on Recievers and hope this is the right place to post this. I am in the market to buy a low to mid range av recievers and after reading through various post and sites have zeroed in on Denon 2312CI model with Energy 5.1 Classic take speakers. The model is selling for $599 at crutchfield , is it worth to buy at this price or can I expect to see this go down further? ....given that it is a discontinued model.

It could very well go lower. Check your local area Best Buy stores as they will often offer 50-75% off if the units have been laying around too long. Although unless you need a specific feature on the 2312CI not offered on the 2112CI, the 2112CI would be a comparable unit at less cost.

---------------------------------
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** Think the AVR is defective?  Reset the microprocessor 4-5 times. 
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post #16228 of 19258 Old 11-25-2012, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alokeprasad View Post

Anyone using the new Dish Hopper DVR?
I'd like to know the remote code for the 2312ci that will work with the Dish remote control. Teaching the Dish remote was not successful.
I don't want to buy or use a Harmony remote. Most activities use the Dish DVR functions and learning how to do all of those on a Harmony remote will be tedious. Getting the Dish remote to Mute, Volume-up, Volume-down on the 2312ci will cover 90% of my needs.
Aloke
I'm answering my own Q here, but I found this info on thesatteliteguys forum.

Try 1360 code for Denon receivers. It worked for me!! Yay!
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post #16229 of 19258 Old 11-25-2012, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhlakes View Post

I just hooked up a Denon 1712 and all is fine when everything in/out is HDMI but I cannot get component out to work.
II was hoping to use HDMI out to my projector and component out to my tv.
Any hints on how to enable component out? Out of the box it is not working. Tried it on multiple devices - no luck.

As Chris notes, not possible with the AVR, rather you'll need to either (1) connect the source to the AVR via component video input, or (2) use a 3rd party HDMI--> component converter.

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Mon - Fri: 10am – 10pm EST (Sat/Sun too if you leave message)
Call for pricing on Denon, Marantz, Yamaha, Def Tech, Atlantic Tech, Parasound
** Think the AVR is defective?  Reset the microprocessor 4-5 times. 
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post #16230 of 19258 Old 11-25-2012, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alokeprasad View Post

I'm answering my own Q here, but I found this info on thesatteliteguys forum.
Try 1360 code for Denon receivers. It worked for me!! Yay!

Great! Thanks for the followup. smile.gif

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** Think the AVR is defective?  Reset the microprocessor 4-5 times. 
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