The new Denon xx12 models are officially out so here's the owner's thread!
Click here to read my instructions for customizing your Harmony remote to work with your Denon receiver!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
For general setup help and Denon FAQ go to batpigworld.com
What's new in the xx12 models?
In terms of features, there isn't really anything new on the xx12 models. Rather, these new models have seen a "trickle down" of features like GUI, networking, USB ports, and MultEQ XT. See the specific model-to-model comparisons below.
* EVERY model in the line now has a GUI which can overlay over HDMI video signals
* The 2312 and 3312 models have an "advanced" GUI which can also overlay on 3D video signals
* Networking now goes down to the 1912 model, and all networked models have Airplay built in
* MultEQ XT is available in the 1712 model, skips the 1912, and then is in all models from 2112 on up
Which model is right for me?
All of the models in the current lineup except the 1312 use the same basic components (e.g. DAC's, DSP chips), so the primary differences in audio fidelity will depend on which version of Audyssey MultEQ you have -- the "basic" flavor or the more advanced XT version. Therefore, make your decisions based on (1) connectivity and (2) features!!
For the xx12 models, ALL models feature a GUI / volume display that can overlay on top of HDMI video. NOTE however that, with the exception of the 3312ci, the GUI menus will ONLY display via the HDMI video output! That means it will NOT display over standard (yellow) composite video or component video outputs.
AVR-1312 (75 watts x 5.1 channels) - $249 msrp
The AVR-1312 is an extremely basic, stripped-down model that is essentially just an HDMI switchbox with 5 amps built in. It has 4 HDMI inputs but lacks Audyssey MultEQ (or any other auto setup program) and uses cheaper components (e.g. spring terminals for the center and surround channels, generic 96/24 DAC's, etc) than the 1612 and higher level models.
Official batpig advice: for any "serious" home theater setup, the AVR-1612 is the MINIMUM model you should consider! Although the 1612 has the same connectivity on the back panel, the AVR-1312's lack of Audyssey MultEQ is a crippling loss for any real enthusiast. The AVR-1312 also does not implement several of the HDMI 1.4 features such as standby-passthrough and ARC. The 1312 doesn't even let you rename inputs or delete unused sources!
The AVR-1312 can expand to a 7.1 by adding a 2-channel external amp to power the surround back speakers.
AVR-1612 (75 watts x 5.1 channels) - $349 msrp
Like the 1312, the AVR-1612 is a basic 5.1 model with pre-outs to expand to 7.1 (with an extra 2-ch amp powering the two additional speakers). Again, the 1612 is really the MINIMUM model that anyone on AVS should be considering for their Home Theater setup.
Stepping up from the 1312 to the 1612 adds:
* Audyssey MultEQ, Dynamic EQ, and Dynamic Volume
* Front panel USB port for connected iPod, iPhone, etc.
* HDMI-CEC (allows for control connection between TV and AVR, standby passthrough, and ARC / audio return channel)
* Dolby PLIIz (if you expand to 7.1, the extra two speakers can be "height" speakers instead of "surround back")
* A superior remote control which can be programmed to control other devices (using preset codes), and has dedicated [Movie], [Music], [Game], and [Direct] buttons for controlling surround modes
* More flexible setup menus including:
--- An "Information" section of the GUI to check audio input signal, HDMI status, etc.
--- The ability to rename inputs and delete unused sources
* Three different "Restorer" modes for compressed music (vs. just one generic mode on the 1312).
The next three models (1712, 1912, 2112) are all built on the same platform with identical amp sections and 6 HDMI inputs, but differ in the specific features and other input options:
AVR-1712 (90 watts x 7.1 channels) - $399 msrp
The AVR-1712 is a strange "neither here nor there" in-between model, lacking some of the modern bells and whistles like networking but featuring the more advanced Audyssey MultEQ XT for superior audio fidelity. It also has greater legacy support with 2 component video inputs and one output. Consider this the "budget audiophile" model for people who don't need the modern niceties like networking and USB.
Official batpig advice: Unless you REALLY want a USB port for your iPod, there is almost no reason to get the 1612 instead of paying a bit more for the 1712!!
Stepping up from the 1612 to the 1712 adds:
* Audyssey MultEQ XT instead of "regular" MultEQ
* 7 channels x 90 watts
* The ability to "assign" the two extra amps
* 6 HDMI inputs (up from 4 on the 1312/1612)
* 2 Component Video inputs with 1 output
* Dedicated "2CH DIRECT/STEREO" menu for configuring 2-channel audio differently than multichannel audio
* Zone 2 functionality (no pre-outs, must be powered via the two "assignable" amps)
* Room-to-room IR jack for hard-wiring a remote control (e.g. from another room or to hide gear in a closet)
* NO USB port
AVR-1912 (90 watts x 7.1 channels) - $549 msrp
The AVR-1912 is like the AVR 1712's trendy twin brother -- same body, same amps, same 6 HDMI inputs, but sacrifices the XT version of MultEQ and the component video switching for some popular new features: networking, Airplay, video conversion, and a USB input for an iPod, iPhone, etc.
Official batpig advice: If you are spending the extra on the 1912 vs. the 1612 or 1712 to get the networking, video conversion, etc. you should spend the extra tiny bit more and get the 2112ci!!
Stepping up from the 1712 to the 1912 adds:
* Networking, including:
--- ethernet firmware updates
--- Pandora, Rhapsody, Internet Radio, etc.
--- The ability to control your receiver over the network (using a browser or an iPod, iPhone, Android phone, etc)
* Front panel USB port for connected iPod, iPhone, etc.
* Video conversion of analog video inputs into HDMI output, so you can send all video to the TV with one HDMI cable
* However, you LOSE both the XT version of MultEQ and a component video input and output
AVR-2112ci (90 watts x 7.1 channels) - $649 msrp
The AVR-2112ci is the best of all worlds in this tier of 6-HDMI, 90W/7ch units. It is essentially a souped-up 1912, stepping up to MultEQ XT while retaining the USB, networking, video conversion, and adding a few bonus features. The 2112ci really hits a sweet spot this year in terms of features for the pricepoint, adding some nice extras over the 1912 at only $100 more msrp, while being a full $200 below the next model (2312ci).
Official batpig advice: Stepping up to the 2112ci from the 1912 is a no-brainer!! Even if you don't give a crap about the CI stuff, getting MultEQ XT, the save/load option, and the extra year of warranty is worth the small marginal cost increase.
Stepping up from the 1912 to the 2112ci adds:
* MultEQ XT instead of regular MultEQ
* An extra year of warranty (CI models get 3 years warranty instead of 2)
* Extra functionality in the web control function, adding a "Setup Menu" section in which you can:
--- SAVE and LOAD configurations to a networked computer
--- Access the full GUI on your web browser, including the "Audio Adjust", "System Setup", and "Information" menus
* The "CI" features for superior control and integration:
--- Zone 2 pre-outs (so you don't have to sacrifice 7.1 to add multizone speakers)
--- RS-232 port for integrating with serial control systems
--- Room-to-room IR jack for hard-wiring a remote control (e.g. from another room or to hide gear in a closet)
AVR-2312ci (105 watts x 7.1 channels) - $849 msrp
Stepping up to the AVR-2312ci/3312ci takes you to Denon's "mid level" in the current lineup. Comparing back panels, the 2312/3312 are clearly built on a similar platform which is different from that of the 1712/1912/2112 trio, with a greater array of input/output options and a few extra goodies for custom integration like 12v trigger outputs and more flexible multizone control options. The 2312/3312 also add video processing, with an "advanced" GUI and the ability to overlay volume/GUI graphics on 3D video in addition to 2D. Finally, the 2312/3312 have a larger front panel display (FPD) with more details, including channel lights which show input signal / output channel information.
Official batpig advice: Only step up to the 2312 from the 2112 if you will actually use the features listed below!! Sound quality should be the same, the "on paper" power difference is negligible in real-world use, and video processing in the receiver is a largely overrated feature. If you have a "high end" setup and are looking to step things up, skip the 2312 and go all the way to the 3312.
Stepping up from the 2112ci to the 2312ci adds:
* Greater input/output flexibility:
--- a seventh HDMI input located on the front panel
--- 1 each extra optical and coaxial digital inputs
--- 1 more component video input and 1 output
--- 1 extra RCA composite input (red/white audio + yellow video) and 1 more s-video input
--- an RCA composite recording output (red/white + yellow, labeled "DVR")
--- dual subwoofer pre-outs
--- an extra unique video input name for input assignments
* Improved video section:
--- Advanced GUI (see screen shots in manual and on product pages at Denon website)
--- GUI and volume graphics can overlay on 3D video
--- Upscaling any signal up to 1080p
* Improved multizone / CI control:
--- bass/treble controls for Zone 2
--- mono/stereo switch for Zone 2
--- ability to set Zone 2 volume to "fixed" or "variable" for Zone 2 pre-outs
--- 12v trigger output
AVR-3312ci (125 watts x 7.1 channels) - $1099 msrp
The 3312ci is the top of the current xx12 Denon lineup. It is the only xx12 model suitable as a pre-amp since it is the only model that offers pre-outs for connecting an external amplifier. It is also the most suitable for high-end or complex installs, since it has dual HDMI outputs, 3 zones, dual 12v triggers. Finally, it adds some other "audiophile" goodies like Audyssey DSX, a dedicated PHONO input for a record player, and AL24+ processing on the front two channels for better 2-channel audio fidelity.
Stepping up from the 2312ci to the 3312ci adds:
* Dual HDMI outputs that can be active simultaneously
* Pre-outs for all channels
* Audyssey DSX with speaker terminals for all 11 speakers (however only 7 can be active at once)
* AL24+ processing on FL/FR channels for greater 2ch music fidelity
* A dedicated PHONO input with pre-amp stage
* HD Radio
* Ability to scale sources to 1080p/24
* Ability to cross-convert analog video signals (e.g. s-video in to component out)
* Enhanced multizone / CI capabilities:
--- 3 zones instead of 2
--- Composite video output to Zone 2
--- Ability to send digital 2.0 PCM audio (optical/coax only, not HDMI) to Zone 2/3
--- dual 12v trigger outs
FY 11 (replaced by) FY 12 [The 3 digit models from previous years are no longer being continued]
391 -----------------> 1312 (avail as of May 2011)
591 -----------------> 1612 (avail as of May 2011)
1611 ----------------> 1712 (avail as of June 23 2011)
791 -----------------> 1912 (avail as of April 2011)
1911 ----------------> 2112CI (avail as of May 2011)
891 -----------------> (no replacement)
2311CI --------------> 2312CI (avail as of June 20 2011)
991 -----------------> (no replacement)
3311CI --------------> 3312CI (avail as of June 2011)
4311CI/4810CI-------> 4520CI (avail as of Sep/Oct 2012, due to the earthquake in Japan in March 2011, the replacement for the 4311CI and 4810CI has been delayed to Sep/Oct 2012.)
This post is a summary of much of what has been discussed in this thread and gets updated on a regular basis as new questions/comments are discussed. In some cases, the colored words/phrases are hyperlinks that connect to another post or other webpage for more information. This is also true for each line in the Table of Contents listed below. If a line appears under the word/phrase when you place your cursor over the word/phrase, then click on it to go to the linked page.
If this is your first visit to this thread, and you wish to make a post, please provide the following information to allow for better responses to your questions:
(a) Identify the model number of the XX12 AVR you are asking about, as there are 7 models discussed in this thread,
(b) Identify what you've done so far to troubleshoot the issue and what the front panel is displaying if an audio issue,
(c) Unless you indicate what settings have been changed, the assumption will be that all settings are on the factory defaults (ie. usually "Auto"),
(d) If the advice given seems to simplistic or obvious, don't shoot the advice giver as we have no idea of the level
of your technical understanding,
(e) If there is no response to your post, it either means no one knows the answer or it's simply been overlooked so repost if you still haven't resolved your issue,
(f) If you post a question in this thread and are given advice and either it or some other advice (eg. Denon phone support, Denon "Ask a Question" webpage) resolves your issue, have the common courtesy to post back what solution resolved your issue so others can learn from it as well,
(g) If the issue is not user error or just a misunderstanding on how the AVR works, please call Denon support so the issue is registered, and
(h) If you don't live in either the USA or CA, please either indicate your country location in your profile or your post as some Denon models from other regions in the world differ in configuration from their USA/CA counterparts (eg. 1912) otherwise responses made will be regarding the USA/CA model.
Denon AVR-XX12/XX13 FAQ/Setup/Troubleshooting Guide
This guide provides general information on the 2011 Denon AVR models (1312, 1612, 1712, 1912, 2112CI, 2312CI, 3312CI) and the 2012 Denon AVR models (1513, 1613, 1713, 1913, 2113CI, 2313CI, 3313CI); however, some areas may apply to other model years as well (esp. Troubleshooting).
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. AUTO SETUP/Audyssey
.......... a. Audyssey Mic Not Included
.......... b. AUTO SETUP
.......... c. Sub Settings
2. AVR General Info
.......... a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion
.......... b. GUI/Menu
.......... c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion
.......... d. Ipod Dock/USB port Compatibility Chart
.......... e. Master Volume Adjustment
.......... f. Microprocessor Reset
.......... g. Mute Icon
.......... h. Power OFF AVR
.......... i. Power Ratings
.......... j. Power Ring/Indicator Light when AVR in Standby
.......... k. Protection Mode
.......... l. Remote Control
.......... m. Settings - Memory Retention
.......... n. Setup Lock
.......... o. Unit Dimensions
3. Denon Website Info
.......... a. Owner's Manual
.......... b. Spec Pages
.......... a. 1080p/4K Video Upscaling
.......... b. 1612 - Internet Radio
.......... c. 3312CI/3313CI - Extra Speaker Posts
.......... d. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp
.......... e. ARC (Audio Return Channel)
.......... f. Bluetooth Adapter
.......... g. CI Models
.......... h. HDMI Audio Out
.......... i. HDMI Standby Passthrough
.......... j. SAVE/LOAD config settings
.......... k. Stream iPhone/DLNA server music to non-network models
.......... l. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source
5. Known Issues: XX12 models: ---->click here ..XX13 models: --->click here
.......... a. 1712 vs. 2112CI
.......... b. Bitstream vs. PCM
.......... c. FY 11 (XX11) vs. FY 12 (XX12) vs. FY13(XX13)
.......... d. HDMI Cable 1.3 vs. 1.4
.......... e. OEM Box
.......... f. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks
.......... g. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models
.......... h. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb
.......... a. Airplay
.......... b. Connecting to Home Network
.......... c. Firmware Updates
.......... d. Network Reset
.......... e. NET/USB
.......... f. Remote Control Smartphone Apps
.......... g. Rhapsody Smartphone apps
.......... h. SiriusXM Smartphone apps
.......... i. Spotify Smartphone apps
.......... j. Web Control - 1613
8. Purchasing Info
.......... a. Best Buy/Magnolia
.......... b. Warranty
9. Rear Panel Connections
.......... a. 12v Trigger
.......... b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit
.......... c. Switched Outlets
.......... d. Turntable/Phono
.......... a. Dual Subwoofers
.......... b. Front Height / DSX Wide minimum requirements
.......... c. Minimum number of speakers
.......... d. Speaker Recommendations
.......... e. Speaker/Sub Volume
.......... f. Speaker Wire
.......... g. Sub - Best Location
.......... h. Sub - Cable option
.......... i. Surround Speaker Placement/Connections
.......... j. Tower Speakers w/built in sub
.......... a. Airplay Icon not showing up
.......... b. Airplay Speaker Not Available
.......... c. AVR randomly changes to other sources
.......... d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes
.......... e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON
.......... f. Cannot see networked Denon on my WIN XP computer/laptop
.......... g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV
.......... h. "Connection failed. Check the device"
.......... i. Green screen on TV
.......... j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo
.......... k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts)
.......... l. HTPC won't pass audio/video
.......... m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video
.......... n. Menu/GUI won't display
.......... o. No audio from single speaker
.......... p. No Video on AVR front panel display
.......... q. Projector - no video displayed
.......... r. PS3/Blu Ray Player (BDP)/Game machine - No Video or Intermittent Video Issue
.......... s. Speaker volume change won't stick
.......... t. Sub not working
.......... u. Surround mode changes
.......... v. Unresolved Issues
.......... w. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box
.......... x. White sparkles on TV
.......... y. Why do my small speakers get set to LARGE?
.......... z. Why does front panel display read "Multi Ch In" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?
.......... za. Why only "STEREO" or "PLII" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?
.......... zb. Wii only displays in 4:3 aspect
.......... zc. WIN 7 PC shows up as "Not Authorized"
.......... zd. WMP 11 audio files won't play from PC via wireless network
12. Zone 2
.......... a. 2-CH Amp
.......... b. Source Limitations
.......... c. Whole House Audio
.......... d. Wireless Headphones
1. AUTO SETUP/Audyssey
a. Audyssey Mic Not Included: If you think Denon forgot to ship the Audyssey mic with your new AVR ... check again. The mic is located inside a small white box that may be embedded inside the styrofoam packaging itself so check all around the styrofoam. If you have an older Denon AVR, the XX12 model mic (DM-A409) is the same mic that is used on all XX09/X89 through XX12 Denon models.
If the mic is indeed missing, you cannot use just any mic from another brand (other than Onkyo or Marantz) as the DM-A409/ACM1H/ACM1HB mics have been specifically calibrated to work with your Denon AVR. Contact Denon for a replacement or call your local Best Buy as they sometimes will have extra mics laying around from their demo units. The Audyssey mic cable length is 25'. If you have the AVR located in a closet or some distance from the main zone, you can buy a 25' extension cable like this one; however, 50' from the AVR to the mic is the maximum length that Audyssey recommends.
b. AUTO SETUP: The Setup Wizard and AUTO SETUP can be run at any time. Just because you only have the front main speakers and are waiting on the surrounds is no reason not to run AUTO SETUP (Audyssey). Simply run it again when you add the additional speakers. You'll also want to rerun it if you move the speakers or any furniture in the room. Regardless of how many actual seats are in your listening room and where they are physically located, ideally you will want to run all 6 (MultEQ) or 8 (MultEQ XT) positions using a camera tripod or (boom mic stand + mic adapterhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1) within a 2'-3' radius around the #1 mic position (ie. main listening position (MLP)) in order to provide the most data points for the Audyssey filters. One of the reasons you likely bought a Denon AVR was for Audyssey, so take advantage of it's capability by providing it with as much data as possible. The whole process shouldn't take more than 20 minutes, although ensure it is completely quiet in the room (ie. no pets or kids running around). Also, the test tones can be quite loud (75db), so best not to do this at night (especially if living in an apartment).
Prior to running AUTO SETUP, you'll ideally want to have your front main speakers toed in towards the main listening position, the center speaker angled up/down (as appropriate) to aim towards the main listening position (ear height) and if using front height speakers, aimed down towards the main listening position.
It doesn't matter what settings you have set prior to running AUTO SETUP as they will be ignored and any previous Audyssey settings will be written over each time AUTO SETUP is run. Simply follow the directions listed in the SETUP WIZARD or follow along in the Denon Owner's manual. Also note that some speakers are intentionally wired "out of phase" by the mfr so if you get a PHASE error and have confirmed the speaker is wired correctly (i.e. +/+ and -/-) then simply press SKIP and move on to the next speaker. Initially just run 1 mic position with the sub volume/gain knob set to 12 o'clock (middle volume) and check to see what the Denon set the sub volume to ... if it's -12db (ie. the maximum the Denon can try to lower the sub with +12db being the maximum it can try to increase the sub), that means your sub volume is louder than 75db so you'll want to lower the volume knob on the sub a few notches (eg. to 10 o'clock) and redo AUTO SETUP again for just 1 position. As long as it's < -10db (eg. -9db, -8db, -7db, etc.) you're good to go to complete the remaining 5 (MultEQ) or 7 (MultEQ XT) positions. There is no reason to get it as close to 0db as possible (unless the sub signal is not causing the sub to turn ON and in that case, get the trim closer to 0db so the AVR sends a stronger signal to the sub) as doing so simply allows more room to adjust the sub volume lower even more with the remote (which isn't what most will want to do, rather most will likely want to raise it a few db louder.
The AVR will set any speaker that is capable of playing a < 50hz frequency (regardless of what the mfr's spec is on paper) in your room to LARGE. Note this setting is NOT about the physical size of the speaker, rather simply whether it can play low frequencies (LARGE) or not (SMALL). However, after running AUTO SETUP, if you are using a sub, go into the Denon GUI and change ALL speakers to SMALL and raise any crossovers that were set below 80hz up to either 60hz or 80hz (whichever you prefer). This not only transfers those lower frequencies to the sub (which is generally able to handle them better as it's got it's own amp) but also frees up some extra headroom for the AVR. Also note that there are 64x (MultEQ) and 8x (MultEQ XT) more Audyssey filters used for the sub then for the speakers so your setup will likely sound better by transferring more to the sub. Feel free to adjust the sub or speaker volume level higher/lower to suit your preference using the "Ch Level" button on the remote (and not on the sub itself) as doing so will not affect the Audyssey filters. For better center channel dialog during TV viewing, make sure the center speaker is angled up/down (as required) towards ear height of your main listening position. You can also set the Audyssey Dyn EQ Reference Level Offset setting to "-10db" for the cable/sat box source.
Note that in order to use Audyssey MultEQ, as well as the Audyssey related features Dyn EQ (increases bass and surround audio at lower volumes below 0db) or Dyn Volume (tames loud commercials/explosions for late night viewing), you must run AUTO SETUP. Generally most folks will want to use Dyn EQ for all sources, all the time (as most everyone listens at below 0db), and use Dyn VOL (EVENING/MEDIUM) for TV and late night movie viewing only (when it's important to keep the loud explosions down due to sleeping kids, etc.), leaving it OFF for regular movie viewing when there's no need to be quiet.
c. Sub Settings: Prior to running AUTO SETUP, the sub knobs should be set as shown below. Refer to your AVR Owner's manual section on "Setup Speakers (Audyssey Auto Setup) - Setup subwoofer." For information on setting up dual subs, refer to the Audyssey Setup Guide para III. If you have an AVR with dual sub pre-outs (2312/13CI and 3312/13CI), simply connect a digital coax cable from each pre-out to each sub, otherwise, you can also use a RCA Y splitter cable from a single sub pre-out to each sub.
Once AUTO SETUP settings are saved and you are satisfied with the settings (ie. sub is not set to -12db), DO NOT make any further volume adjustments on the sub itself (other than possibly changing the power from "ON" to "AUTO"), rather adjust the sub volume using the remote control, "CH Level" button (XX12 models) or the GUI menu (XX13 models). Note: On XX12 models the box around "Audyssey MultEQ" will disappear to let you know that adjustments have been made to the original AUTO SETUP settings; however, the actual Audyssey filters are still in tact and enabled. Although the speaker "distances" will likely be spot on, the sub "distance" will likely be considerably longer as it is actually a value that allows for a delay due to filters in the sub so do NOT manually change the sub distance to its' actual distance.
For more questions about Audyssey, refer to the Audyssey FAQ or go to Ask Audyssey.
2. AVR General Info
a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion: Only the 1912/1913 and CI models can convert a component video source (eg. Wii) to HDMI. The 1712 does, however, offer a component video out jack so you can pass the component video source input to a non-HDMI TV. Another option is to use a component --> HDMI converter or if you have a Wii you can use the Wii2HDMIhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1.
b. GUI/Menu display: With the exception of the 3312CI (displays GUI/status menu over "any" video output connection), all other XX12/XX13 models can ONLY display the GUI/status menu over an HDMI connection to your TV, which means if you don't have an HDMI TV you should likely be considering one of the older XX11 models that CAN display over other than just HDMI. Although much of the information can be read on the front panel display, some setup information is NOT displayed.
Note: The GUI is displayed in 480i resolution so if you have an older TV that cannot display 480i over HDMI, try playing a video source and displaying the GUI over the non-480i video source. The GUI display defaults to 30sec for the NET/USB, TUNER, and iPOD menus. This setting can be changed to 10sec, OFF, or always ON. When using the Video Select feature, eg. to watch cable TV with the TUNER as the audio source, you may have to set the TUNER GUI display to OFF. One piece of information that is not displayed on the front panel display is the AVR's IP address; however, one 2112CI owner (w/o an HDMI TV) was able to get the IP Address by using the iPhone remote app DeRemote.
c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion: If you have an older non-HDMI TV, note that there is no HDMI--> Component video conversion by any current AVR on the market. Either you must use the (XX12 models: 1712, 2312CI or 3312CI; XX13 models: 2313CI or 3313CI), which have (2) component video inputs AND (1) output, or you can use an external device that can do the conversion like the ViewHD or this Monoprice converter.http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 Note however, that although the GUI/status menu will appear over the component video output with the 3312/13CI, it will NOT appear when using the 1712 or 2312/13CI.
d. iPod Dock/USB port Compatibility Chart: This chart shows the compatibility of the various Denon docks and USB port with the various iPod devices.
e. Master Volume Adjustment: Unlike perhaps your older receiver that was really loud at say 1/4 of the max volume scale, Denon AVRs use a logarithmic scale and will require the volume turned to roughly 2/3 of the maximum for average volume levels. Denon AVRs have two volume scales, the default being "relative" (XX12: -80db to +18db, XX13: -79.5db to +18db) and "absolute" (XX12: 0 to 99, XX13: 0 to 98), although note that the terms relative and absolute are no longer used in the XX13 manuals. If you have run AUTO SETUP, then average volume for most folks with 8Ω speakers and at least 87db+ efficiency, will be around -30db to -20db (51-61 absolute) for TV viewing and -20db to -10db (61-71 absolute) for movie watching. Each model has a "Volume Limit" that defaults to OFF although can be set to -20db (XX12: 61, XX13: 60), -10db (XX12: 71, XX13: 70), or 0db (XX12: 81,XX13: 80). Setting this to -10db (XX12: 71, XX13: 70) is a good idea to ensure that others in the house cannot raise the master volume too loud which might cause the AVR to shut down in protection mode or clip the speakers. To ensure the AVR doesn't shut down in protection mode, it's a good idea to not raise the volume above 0db (XX12: 81, XX13: 80) (little additional volume gained at the price of an extreme increase in power required). Also note that when adjusting the volume using the remote, it's better to tap the volume up/down buttons as pressing and holding it down for several seconds results in a HUGE change in volume. This is common to ALL stock Denon remotes.
f. Microprocessor Reset: XX12 models: Click here. XX13 models: Click here.
g. MUTE Icon: There is currently no way to remove the MUTE icon from the TV display when in the MUTE mode. To prevent the relays from clicking when pressing MUTE, change the Mute Level setting from FULL to -40db.
h. Power OFF AVR: The only way to turn the XX12 and newer models completely OFF is to unplug them, otherwise they are either ON or in Standby. They will use anywhere from roughly 65W-85W when ON (no audio playing) to 80W-100W at reference volume (0db) using 8Ω speakers of at least average sensitivity (ie 87db+). In Standby they will use 0.1W with HDMI Control OFF and about 2.2W with HDMI Control or Network Standby/IP Control set to ON.
i. Power Ratings: For marketing purposes, Denon generally uses 6Ω ratings (ie. gives a higher wattage rating) on the lower level AVRs which is why you will find them advertised (eg. Best Buy) at higher power ratings than listed in their Owner manuals or in these info posts both of which use the 8Ω rating. For example the 1912/13 is a 90W AVR; however, is marketed as being 125W. Remember to read the fine print when checking the power ratings of an AVR. Also note that the difference in power ratings between these models is moot as going from the 75W (1612/13) to the 125W (3312/13CI) will result in less than a 3db increase in volume .... 3db being the lowest amount of volume that can generally be detected by most people. This is the reason that if you truly want additional volume capability, you are better served adding an external amp of at least 200W+ (although this can only be done with the 3312/13CI model as it is the only model with main zone preouts to connect to an external amp) or simply buying speakers that are at least 3db more efficient (eg. from 86db to 89db efficiency/sensitivity rating).
j. Power Ring/Indicator Light when AVR in Standby: When either "HDMI Control" or Network Standby" (XX12)/IP Control (XX13) is set to ON/ALWAYS ON, the power ring light (XX12) or power indicator light above the power button (XX13) on the front panel will change to solid "red" when placed in Standby mode.
k. Protection Mode: If the AVR shuts off in protection mode and the power ring/indicator light flashes red, it generally means the following based on the frequency of flashes:
The most common cause for shutting down, is a loose speaker wire strand touching another post. A great way to shore up loose speaker wire strands is to use banana plugs by forum sponsor Monoprice. Visually check the speaker connections at both the AVR and the speakers themselves to guarantee that speaker wire from one post isn't touching another post. Pull the AVR out of the rack or cabinet if you have to in order to ensure this is the case. If you have in wall speaker wire, it's very possible a nail may have split the speaker wire casing causing it to short. If you have confirmed there are no speaker wire issues and are not running 4Ω speakers excessively loud, then disconnect all sources and add one at a time to see if the issue is being caused by a particular source. If not, then disconnect all the speakers and add one speaker back at a time to see if the issue is caused by a particular speaker. If not and you are using a power strip, try connecting directly to the outlet as you may have a bad power strip. If still no joy, then try resetting the microprocessor as a last resort. If still no joy, you're likely looking at having to send the unit in for repair as it could be amp failure.
l. Remote Control: The Denon XX12 stock remotes, although having a number of various pre-programmed devices stored in them, have limited function keys to control these devices (XX13 remotes (except 3313CI) cannot operate other devices). Unlike the 43XX series, they are NOT learning remotes nor can they do MACRO commands. If you want to boost your Wife Acceptance Factor (WAF), your best bet is to purchase a Harmony (or other universal/programmable) remote which can be used for not only most every function on the Denon stock remote but on your other device remotes as well. Simply download the remote codes for your particular Denon AVR model (and other devices) from the Logitech data base. Numerous Harmony models are available, although the Harmony ONEhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 is most often recommended and generally scores many WAF points.
m. Settings - Memory Retention: All settings in the AVR to include the Audyssey settings should be retained for at least 1-2 weeks if the power cable is disconnected from the AVR. In some instances, if the power is interrupted (eg. Power outage) while the AVR is powered ON, the settings will return to their factory default settings.
n. Setup Lock: When you have small kids in the house, it may be a good idea to consider setting the "Setup Lock" feature to ON. This setting defaults to OFF from the factory. Also, with cats around, check for loose cable connections at the rear panel if you suddenly start having connection issues.
o. Unit Dimensions
Note that when placing the AVR inside a cabinet, there should be at least 3" clearance on all sides (to include the rear so cables don't have to bend at a sharp angle) and ideally open to the front and back. If there are no holes in the back of the cabinet and there is a door on the front of the cabinet, consider cutting a large hole in the back and leaving the door on the front open when using the AVR. In tight spaces, you may also want to consider using a USB cooling fanhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 that can exhaust the warm air away from the AVR. Denon AVRs generally don't run to warm (although the 2312CI and 3312CI will tend to run on the hot side), but you still need sufficient clearance around the unit.
3. Denon Website Info
a. Owner's Manual: Denon has replaced the hard copy Owner's manuals with a CD for all the XX12 and newer models. This same .pdf file can be downloaded from Denon's website here.
b. Spec Pages: When viewing Denon's AVR spec pages note that Denon has been known to leave errors on these pages. For clarification, download and review the respective Owner's manual or post your question in this thread if there is some doubt as to a particular feature.
a. 1080p/4K Video Upscaling: The 2112CI and lower XX12 models do NOT include a video chip and cannot upscale video to 1080p, rather they will simply pass the video through at the same resolution sent by the source (ie. 1080p from a BDP will pass through as 1080p to the TV). Only the 2312CI/3312CI include a video chip to upscale video to 1080p ... the Analog Devices ADV 8002-4/8002-1. Although it is a brand new chip to market, early reports are that it provides no better improvement over the ABT chips from previous year's models. Keep in mind though that if you have all HD sources, or you feel your cable/sat box, BDP, or TV does a good job of upscaling SD content, you don't need to upgrade to the 2312CI or 3312CI just for the upscaling feature as the upscaling feature of the AVR most likely will provide no better video quality then will your TV or source devices. If you have the 2312CI or 3312CI and want to pass the video through the AVR with no upscaling, set the "i/P Scaler" setting for that particular input to OFF.
b. 1612 - Internet Radio: If you want to play internet radio or other application (eg. Pandora) on the 1612 using the iPhone, connect it to the front USB jack and change the display mode setting from the default of "REMOTE" to "BROWSING." See your Owner's manual for details.
c. 3312CI/3313CI extra speaker posts: Although the 3312CI and 3313CI models both feature 11 sets of speaker posts, as they are 7.2 AVRs, they can only run up to 7 speakers at a time ... the extra speaker posts are merely provided for convenience so as not to have to rewire for other configurations. If you want to run more than 7 speakers in the main zone, you will need to upgrade to either the 4311CI or 4520CI which are 9.2 AVRs (capable of up to 11.2 w/external 2 CH amp).
d. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp: Using this mode (known as "passive bi-amping") generally produces no noticeable improvement in either audio quality nor extra power as you're simply sending the same full range signal to each set of posts on the bi-ampable speaker (which they would still get with a single connection) from the same single power supply in the AVR. If you want extra power for the speakers (which in most cases is not necessary for 8Ω speakers with an 86db+ efficiency in small/med sized rooms), consider the 3312/13CI models which have main zone pre-outs so you can add an external amp if desired.
e. ARC (Audio Return Channel): This is the feature that will pass audio from the TV (eg. OTA, Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, etc.) back to the AVR over the same HDMI cable that connects the AVR from the Monitor Out jack to the TV. In order for the ARC feature to work, it must be offered on both the TV and the AVR. Just because the TV and AVR are HDMI 1.4 DOES NOT mean they offer the ARC feature. Note the 1312 and 1513 do NOT offer ARC and therefore ARC will not work when either model is connected to a TV with ARC. In order to use the TV's ARC feature you must set the TV's "HDMI-CEC" setting (LG - SimpLink; Phillips - EasyLink; Panasonic - VieraLink; Sony - BraviaSync; Samsung - Anynet+; Toshiba - CE-Link,RegzaLink) to ON as well as setting the AVR's "HDMI Control" setting to ON as the factory default is OFF. Some TV's also require the audio to be set to external speakers (eg. Samsung - set to Home Theater). Also make sure the HDMI cable from the AVR is plugged into the ARC labeled jack on the TV (eg. HDMI1 - Panasonic, HDMI2 - Samsung, Panasonic). Note that with the 3312CI/3313CI, only one of the HDMI Monitor Out jacks will support the ARC feature at a time and must be set using the HDMI Control (Control Monitor) setting (p. 109/?). Once these settings are made, turn all devices OFF for a few minutes and then ON again ... TV first and then the AVR. Note that a side effect when using the TV's HDMI-CEC/ARC set to ON is that the AVR will always shift to the "TV" source input when first turned ON rather than going to the last input that was on prior to the AVR being put into Standby (as is the case when ARC is OFF). Note also that with some TVs (ie. Samsung) the AVR will also revert to the TV input while in Standby which will prevent you from using the HDMI pass through feature (eg. cable/sat box) without turning the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV to OFF. If this is too annoying, either turn off the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on the TV when not using it or forgo the ARC feature (set HDMI-CEC/ARC to OFF) and use an optical cable from the TV to the AVR. The optical cable will pass the same audio (PCM 2.0 or DD 5.1) that the HDMI cable would have passed with no loss in audio quality. Another option, if not trying to pass audio from the TV back to the AVR is to simply delete the "TV" source using the SOURCE DELETE feature in the OPTION menu. If you have the cable/sat box connected directly to the TV (eg. due to an HDMI handshake issue), check your TV owner's manual to see if the TV will pass DD 5.1 from connected sources when using the ARC connection (as most down mix to stereo only). If not, then connect an optical cable from the sat/cable box to the AVR instead if it passes DD 5.1 over the optical audio out.
f. Bluetooth Adapter:: Although Denon AVRs do not feature bluetooth connectivity, you can connect a 3rd party bluetooth adapter (eg. Logitech or Belkinhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1) to the AVR's analog input and wirelessly stream audio from any bluetooth capable device (eg. iPhone, iPad, android phone, etc.).
g. CI Models: The "CI" (custom installer) models include such features as remote control jacks (used with IR extenders/repeaters), RS-232 jack for remote access (eg. home automation systems like Crestron), maintenance mode (pro installer or service tech only), and Audyssey Pro installer ready (2312CI/3312CI and 2313CI/3313CI only) - using an Audyssey Pro installer kit via a registered Pro Installer or the kit can be purchased by consumers for $700 ($550 kit/mic + $150 license/AVR). Refer to the Audyssey website for more information). The CI models (XX11 and newer) also offer a 3 year warranty (vice 2 years for the non-CI models).
h. HDMI Audio Out: This feature only works with devices connected to the AVR with an HDMI cable. It's an "either/or" setting in that the audio can be set to pass to the "AMP" or the "TV", but not both at the same time.
i. HDMI Standby Pass through: This feature allows you to pass HDMI connected sources only through the AVR (when in Standby) to the TV. Set HDMI Control to ON (factory default is OFF) and set the Standby Source to either LAST (default) or to a specific HDMI jack # (eg. that the cable/sat box is connected to). Once making these settings, turn the AVR and TV off for a few minutes, then power both back on, the TV first, then the AVR. If this feature is not working for you, try setting the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on your TV to OFF.
j. SAVE/LOAD config settings: The XX12 ("CI" models only) and XX13 (1713 and higher models only) have the ability to SAVE/LOAD the config/settings file (includes Audyssey settings) to a PC using the Web Control feature. Note: This feature is not offered on the 1912 or 1613. If you are having difficulty SAVE(ing) a file, make sure to stop any network playback by first playing something on the network and then either pressing the Stop Playback (black square) or the ENTER button on the remote for a few seconds. You may also need to set "Network Standby" to OFF (contrary to what the Owner's manual indicates). The config.dat file should be about 347kb, however, it's a good idea to confirm the AVR is actually saving data in the file as the file size will be 347kb whether it's all zeroes or filled with data. Some owners have noted a file with all zeroes was saved. You may be able to open the file with Windows or possibly Notepad; however, if neither works for you, then try one of the free hex viewer programs listed here. If you do get a file with all zeroes or if a file with data won't load properly, then set Network Standby to OFF, cycle the AVR OFF/ON and then try a SAVE again which should result in a config.dat file with non-zero data. If not then, set Network Standby back to ON and try it again. It's also a good idea to SAVE the settings prior to a firmware update even though firmware updates generally don't change the system settings. If you are having difficulty using IE, try using Firefox. If still no joy when trying to LOAD the config.dat file, try resetting the microprocessor and then do the LOAD again.
k. Stream iPhone/DLNA music to non-network models: If you have a PS3, xbox360, or laptop that is connected to your home network as well as hard wired to your AVR, you can use the AirMusic iPhone app to stream audio to these devices and play it through your surround setup. For android 2.2 phones you can stream audio using the Skifta app. There are also several other devices that can be used to include Apple TV, Airport Express, as well as converting the audio to a FM frequency and playing it via the built in TUNER. Read this article for more details. You can also use a Bluetooth adapter to wirelessly stream audio from a bluetooth device (iphone, iPad, android phone, etc.) to either a non-network or networking model as mentioned a few items above.
l. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source: You have a couple of different options here. One option is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV w/optical from the cable/sat box to the AVR. That way you can use the HDMI to the TV for video and then select whatever audio source you want on the AVR. Another option is to use the "Video Select" (XX12)/"Video Source (XX13) feature on the AVR noting that you cannot select an HDMI video source. Rather you must connect the cable/sat box to the AVR with a component video/optical cable and then while the audio source is selected (eg. TUNER), change the "Video Select" setting to the component video source. Note that on the XX13 models, with a "network" audio source selected, this feature cannot be used.
a. 1712 vs. 2112CI: Although both models feature Audyssey MultEQ XT, the 1712 is not a networking model while the 2112CI does offer networking. If you have an AppleTV or PS3 or other networking device the 1712 will likely serve you well; however, note that the benefits of on board networking on the 2112CI include: (a) the ability to control the AVR with a smartphone app from anywhere in the house where you can access your home network with your phone; (b) the ability to SAVE the settings/Audyssey config file to a PC so you don't have to rerun AUTO SETUP again should you have to reset the microprocessor, and (c) the ability to update the unit's firmware without having to ship it off to a repair facility. The 2112CI also adds a 3rd year of warranty.
b. Bitstream vs. PCM: When playing audio from a BD/DVD, you can set the Blu Ray player (BDP) to either "bitstream" or "PCM/Direct". By setting it to "PCM/Direct" the BDP will decode (or unzip) the file which will then pass the audio in its’ original uncompressed format (ie. multi-channel PCM) to the AVR and display "MULT CH IN" on the front panel display of the AVR, or you can "bitstream" the audio and just let the BDP pass the compressed file directly to the AVR to let the AVR decode (or unzip) it in which case you will see the compressed file codec used (eg. DD, DTS, Dolby TrueHD, DTS HD MA, etc.) on the front panel display. Either way the audio quality will be the same, although the bitstreamed audio will likely sound a bit louder, and most prefer to see the compressed file codec on their AVR's front panel display rather than just "MULT CH IN". When bitstreaming the audio, ensure the "Secondary audio" or "Audio Mix" setting (if there is one) on the BDP is set to OFF. Also note that HD audio tracks can be either 5.1 or 7.1; regardless, it will be downmixed to however many speakers are in your setup.
c. FY 11 (XX11) vs. FY 12 (XX12) vs. FY13 (XX13) : Some great prices can be had from stores clearing out the previous year's models. The XX11 models are the first year the HDMI 1.4a models were released; however, all of the XX12 models offer GUI overlay on 2D video (also over 3D on 2312CI and 3312CI) while every XX13 model offers GUI overlay on both 2D/3D video. Some new enhancements/differences on the XX13 models: (a) networking starts at the 1613, (b) front HDMI jack on all models, (c) SiriusXM and Spotify (1913 and higher via a firmware upgrade summer 2012), (d) remote no longer comes with preprogrammed device codes, and (e) HDMI inputs are no longer assignable. The advantage the XX11/X91 lower level models have is that they can do analog --> HDMI conversion while the XX12 (1312, 1612, and 1712) and XX13 (1513, 1613, and 1713) cannot do the conversion.
d. HDMI Cable 1.3 vs. 1.4: There is no difference between an HDMI 1.3 cable and HDMI 1.4 cable. Cables are either High Speed (1080p) or Standard speed (720p/1080i). If it is an HDMI 1.3 cable and can pass 1080p video, you don't need to buy new cables because you upgraded to an HDMI 1.4 AVR. For cable and switch needs consider forum sponsors Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable where good quality "High Speed" 6' HDMI cables can be had for about $5 each. There's no reason to get ripped off buying overpriced Monster cables at Best Buy. There's also no reason to pay more for an HDMI cable w/ethernet as none of the XX12 or XX13 models can take advantage of this cable.
e. OEM Box: The original Denon box the AVR comes in should be kept for the life of the AVR as it will be needed if the AVR has to be returned to the vendor you purchased it from or if it needs to be shipped to a repair facility for firmware updates or repair.
f. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks:: If you have an older generation AVR that lacks HDMI jacks and the only reason you want to upgrade to an HDMI AVR is to get the new HD codecs (DD TrueHD and DTS HD MA), then unless you want to spend more money, keep your old AVR as the lossy DD/DTS tracks on BD's are created at a higher bitrate (~640kbps vs. 430kbps) on a regular DVD. You will likely be hard pressed to discern any audio difference between these tracks and the HD audio tracks via HDMI.
g. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models: Although the USA/CA and Europe/Asia Pacific models are very similar, a few noted differences include: (1) the Europe/Asia Pacific 1912 also includes a Source Select knob and Audyssey MultEQ XT (due to there being no 2112 model outside of the USA) whereas the USA/CA 1912 only uses MultEQ, (2) Europe/Asia Pacific 2313CI features main zone pre-outs whereas the USA/CA 2313CI does not, and (3) the Europe/Asia Pacific 1713 does not feature Web Control (although it can still be accessed as noted in this post) or have Zone 2 pre-outs, both of which are featured on the USA model. Also note there is a 2 digit code on the OEM shipping box with the model number that identifies the region of the AVR (eg. 1912 E3): EU or E3 = USA, EC = Canada, E1 = Asia, E2 = Europe, and EA = Australia.
h. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb: When purchasing an other than new in box unit, you'll want to refer to reset the microprocessor which will ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults.
a. Airplay: The Airplay feature (audio only) is offered on the XX12 ( 1912 and higher) and XX13 (1613 and higher) networking models. It allows you to stream your iTunes songs wirelessly from your laptop, iPhone 3GS or newer (will not work with iPhone 3G), or iPad to one of the above models when both are connected to your home network. This feature can also be replicated on non-networking models by using an Apple TV (audio and video) or Airport Express (audio) connected to the AVR. There is however, a limitation when using the on board Airplay feature with the XX12 models in that when playing to Zone 2, you must also have the main zone ON and playing the same Airplay source as well (ie. cannot play another source in the main zone with Airplay in Zone 2). This same limitation also exists with the free Airplay firmware upgrade to the 3311CI/991 and 4311CI. However, when using Airplay via an Apple TV or Airport Express connected to the XX12 model, or the on board Airplay on the newer XX13 models, this limitation does not apply (ie. you can play the Airplay source to Zone 2 while listening to another source in the main zone). Also note that Apple currently has only licensed AVR mfr's to use Airplay in "audio" only mode (ie. no video). If you want to pass video, you'll to need to add the Apple TV. Note that in order to pass the ATV2's optical audio to Zone 2 using the XX12 models(1712, 1912, 2112CI, and 2312CI), and XX13 models(1713 and higher), you will also need to buy an optical to RCA analog converter similar to thishttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 one as these models can only pass analog audio from externally connected sources to Zone 2 (exception: the 3312CI can pass PCM 2.0 over the ATV optical cable to Zone 2).
A "wired" connection from the AVR to the router/modem is preferred to reduce connection issues and reduce audio dropouts due to buffering (eg. AVR front panel display reads Buffering 60%). If you don't want a networking model, adding an Apple TV will give you Airplay, although there are noted issues with the ATV having audio dropouts regardless of the brand of AVR connection. Some have noted that turning off bluetooth and closing background applications on your iphone, ipad, etc. will reduce/eliminate the Airplay audio dropouts. Also, if having connectivity issues, try unplugging the AVR for a few minutes and then power on again.
Notes: (1) When using Airplay, the source controls the initial volume so make sure it is turned down on your laptop, iPhone, iPad, etc. before starting to stream the audio through your surround speakers. (2) If you want to turn the AVR ON to use Airplay, make sure NETWORK STANDBY is set to ON, and download one of the REMOTE apps listed in para 7(f) below. (3) In order to use Airplay with an Android phone, you can use the doubleTwist app. (4) To bypass Airplay with an Android phone, use the Android 2.2 Skifta app to stream audio/video from a DLNA device connected to your home network.
b. Connecting to a home network: None of the XX12/XX13 models are "wireless" or include the capability of being wireless by adding a wifi dongle/USB adapter. You must either connect the network capable AVR directly to a router/modem with an ethernet cable (recommended) or connect the AVR to a wireless bridge like this one or this one or thishttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 one. The Airport Express can be setup as a wireless bridge as well as provides Airplay capability. If you're having problems with connecting with the Airport Express, disconnect the Airport Express from the AVR and connect it to a laptop and try to make that connection work first, turning off the wireless adapter in the laptop.
A couple of alternatives to a wireless bridge are: (1) Powerline adapters that plug into nearby outlets that can then connect to your wireless router/modem which effectively turns your house wiring into a "wired" network, or (2) Ethernet over coax MoCA adaptershttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 which use your existing coax cable used for your TV.
If you don't plan on using the network capability for other than firmware updates, 100' Cat 5/6 ethernet cables are fairly inexpensive and available from forum sponsor Monoprice. You can also purchase 1000' Cat 5/6 bulk cable if longer length is required; however, note the maximum length without signal amplification is 100m or 328'.
If you are experiencing intermittent audio dropouts while using the network streaming feature, consider connecting the AVR directly to the router rather than a wireless connection or consider upgrading to a newer, better quality router that is able to handle more bandwidth. Additionally, if you have a NETGEAR router which is causing problems, try disabling the UPnP mode. Also make sure that the router's SSID is not "hidden", nor should it have a blank (" ") in its’ name. If you have an xFinity modem/router, try placing it in "bridge" mode.
c. Firmware Updates: XX12 models: Click here. XX13 models: Click here.
d. Network Reset: XX12 models: Click here. XX13 models: Click here.
e. NET/USB: When finished using the NET/USB input source, it's important to back all the way out of the menus otherwise the connection will remain open.
f. Remote Control Smartphone apps: The Denon REMOTE app is a FREE app that can be downloaded from the iTunes website here and used by an iPhone, iPod touch or iPad to control the networking models from anywhere in the house (where wireless internet is available). The latest Ver 3.0 adds some additional features for XX13 models only (Frequency Direct FM Tuning, Fast Internet Radio Browsing, Volume Limit Setting). For the more experienced iPhone/iPad remote users, you may want to try the iPhone GUI Design application, Demopad .
A couple of other similar apps (fee required), DenONOFF and DeRemote can also be used on prior year models going back to XX08. For those of you with Android phones, you can download AVR-Remote free as well. Another option using an Android phone, is to download the Remote for iTunes app which will control iTunes on your PC or MAC which can then stream to the AVR using Airplay. Or if having audio/drop out issues using Airplay, consider using the 2Player android app. Make sure the Network Standby setting is set to ON in order to turn the AVR ON from Standby. If the remote app should suddenly stop working, try powering off the AVR and unplug it for a few minutes.
g. Rhapsody Smartphone apps: Rhapsody audio can be streamed to the AVR (w/monthly subscription) using either the Rhapsody iPhone app or the Rhapsody android phone app.
h. SiriusXM Smartphone apps: Although Denon XX12 networking models do not feature on board SiriusXM radio connection while 1613 and higher models do, you can still stream SiriusXM Internet Radio (w/monthly subscription) via either the SiriusXM iPhone app or the SiriusXM android app.
i. Spotify Smartphone apps: Although the Denon XX12 networking models do not feature on board Spotify (1913 and higher models will receive a firmware upgrade to install Spotify sometime during the summer of 2012: Note: This upgrade will NOT be made available for the XX12 models), Spotify mobile audio can be streamed to the AVR (w/monthly subscription) using either the Spotify iPhone app or possibly the Spotify android phone app. Using an iPhone, in Spotify, start a track, click the information sign and next to the volume, click the TV icon with an arrow in it to then select the Airplay speakers. If the Airplay icon fails to show up, try cycling the iPhone OFF then ON again. Using an android phone, you may need to read the following article and may need to load Airfoil to a PC in order to get it to work. Note: If someone can confirm what is required to make this work with an Android phone, please PM me with the details. Another method to play Spotify is using the "Spotimote" android app. Download the software to your PC running Spotify and connect the PC to an input on the AVR. Then download the app to your phone and you can control Spotify on the PC from your phone.
j. Web Control - 1613: Although the 1613 does not come featured with the Web Control feature available on the 1713 and higher models, you can still use this feature by entering the AVR's IP address (XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX) + the following additional directory info (ie. XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX/MainZone/index.html). You can also use the SAVE/LOAD feature by entering the AVR's IP address (XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX/Setup_Index.asp).
8. Purchasing Info
a. Best Buy/Magnolia: Best Buy is Denon's largest customer so you can generally find the full line of Denon AVRs at their stores, although specific models will be limited depending on whether there is a Magnolia in the store or not. Best Buy stores w/no Magnolia will generally only sell the lower level models (1312, 1612, and 1912) while those with a Magnolia will sell the 1712, 2112CI, 2312CI, and 3312CI although all these models will be on clearance sale now that the XX13 models are being released. Do you have Best Buy gift cards but would prefer to buy at one of the on line authorized resellers that offer a discount? There are several sights that will buy your gift cards at 90% of face value ($25 min) including this one. Although you will generally always pay full MSRP when purchasing the current year models at a Best Buy/Magnolia with a 10% discount for open box/demo units, the benefit of purchasing here is there is no restocking fee if returned within 30 days, regardless of whether it's defective or not, whereas the on-line authorized resellers that provide a discount will normally charge a 15-20% restocking fee plus require you to pay return shipping (Electronics Expo has removed the restocking fee but has reduced the return period from 30 days to 15 days, no questions asked). Also note that Best Buy has some great deals when clearing out previous year's models so be sure to visit the store before considering a XX13 model to possibly get a higher XX12 model and still stay within your budget.
b. Warranty: In order for the Denon warranty to be valid, the AVR must be purchased from an authorized reseller, either on-line or B&M store. Although Amazon is an authorized reseller, that is only if they are the "seller" so check where it says "Ships from and sold by XXXX" to ensure the XXXX company is either Amazon or another Denon authorized reseller. Unless they are listed on Denon's website as an authorized reseller, the warranty may not be valid (ie. some vendors are not listed on the website but purchase from authorized resellers and therefore the warranty is still valid so call Denon if in doubt). If purchasing from an unauthorized reseller, you may want to purchase a 3rd party "Date of Purchase" warranty which is often times offered by the unauthorized vendors. In some cases the reseller will offer their own in house warranty. AV Science is an authorized reseller as well and although they may only list a few models on their website, they sell the full line of Denon AVRs and at a discount off MSRP when "calling" them. In fact you may want to get the best deal you can via one of the other on-line authorized resellers above and then give AV Science a call to see if they will match the offer.
Warranty period (when purchased from authorized reseller)
(a) Denon has been known to extend the 2yr/3yr (CI models) warranty period up to 45 days beyond normal expiration
(b) If your unit requires service and the service center cannot repair/return it within 30 days, the repair facility "should" offer a refurbished unit if available. If you accept the refurbished unit, rather than wait, your warranty on the refurbished unit would be the time remaining from the original purchase.
(c) Buying refurbished units can be a good way to save some money, although receiving a defective "refurbished" unit is not uncommon so if you choose to go this route, make sure the reseller has a good customer service rating (see resellerratings.com). There's also no guarantee that the refurbished unit will have any updated firmware installed. In some cases you can get a brand new, fully warrantied unit from one of the authorized resellers that provide discounts (Electronics Expo, J&R, ABT, AV Science, etc.) for the same or lower price than buying refurbished, especially when the units are on clearance to make room for the new year's models.
(d) Amazon Warehouse "open box" deals will still include Denon's full warranty as is the case with any authorized reseller selling "open box" items. In general these can be great deals as often times the previous buyer simply didn't understand how to set up the AVR (and obviously didn't know about AVS forum) and so there's usually nothing wrong with the AVR. Check to make sure you have all the included accessories, although if the mic is missing, you can generally buy one off of eBay (DM-A409, ACM1H, or ACM1HB - US distributors only) or check with your local Best Buy as may have an extra mic from one of their demo units.
(e) Some charge cards (eg. AMEX) will add an additional year to the mfr's warranty (ie. total 3 - non "CI"/4 "CI" models), so before you give up on your old AVR, or consider adding to the Denon warranty with a 3rd party warranty (eg. SquareTrade), if you purchased with a charge card, check to see if they offer an Extended Warranty benefit.
(f) Denon has changed the return policy when purchasing a refurb from Accessories4less. Rather than returning the refurb to AC4L, you will contact Denon directly to troubleshoot the issue and if still no joy, you will deal with Denon directly for an exchange/return. Often time’s returns are not warranted, rather simply the new owner not understanding how to setup the AVR.
(g) Electronics Expo has reduced its’ return period from 30 days to 14 days; however, no longer charges a restocking fee should you change your mind or want to A/B test two AVRs and return the one you don't want to keep. Providing all equipment and accessories are returned in their original packaging, you should only be responsible for the original shipping and return shipping costs (ie. no restocking fee). Note that EE operates in the following states (Arizona, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Nevada, New Jersey, Pennsylvania) and therefore charges tax if you live in one of them.
9. Rear Panel Connections
a. 12v Trigger: When connecting a trigger jack to an external device that also has a trigger jack, use a 1/8" to 1/8" Mono cable like this one to connect the AVR to the device you want to trigger (eg. external amp, projection screen, lights, etc.). Although triggers are more sophisticated than switched outlets, the simple ON/OFF feature of a trigger can be replicated using a smart power strip (although note this particular model doesn't work with all AVRs) rather than getting the 2312CI/2313CI (1 trigger) or 3312CI/3313CI (2 triggers). If you are using an external amp that goes to Standby when powered back on (eg. Emotiva), consider using this trigger switchhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 from Emotiva along with the smart power strip.
b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit: An IR extender/repeater kit can be used to extend the IR signal of the Denon remote when the AVR is located in a closet or other room. There are numerous 3rd party kits on the market which will include a powered "blaster" and a receiver, although not all may work with your model so before buying, ask the reseller if it's been tested with your model. The powered "blaster" will have either a single or multiple wired emitters connected to it (generally with no more than 6' wire) that are placed over the IR sensor on the front panel of each device you want to control and as such, can be used with ANY Denon AVR model. The receiver is then placed in the room in which you will be using the remote control. Some kits cannot be used in close proximity to a LCD or plasma TV and others have limited range so be sure to read the fine print before buying one of these kits. On Denon AVRs the IR sensor is located about 1/3 from the left side of the front panel display (see picture in your Owner's manual). The "CI" models include remote control jacks which provide a cleaner connection in the rear panel of the AVR rather than having to place an emitter over the IR sensor on the front panel display. If you have a CI model and would prefer to use the remote control IN jack, there are kits that use a 3.5mm plug instead of an emitter or AFAIK, you can simply replace the emitter with a 3.5mm mono-to-mono cable. Google "IR extender kit" or "IR repeater kit" and ensure you read the fine print to get a model that is appropriate for your particular requirements. Also make sure it is returnable if it doesn't work correctly.
c. Switched Outlets: Denon AVRs no longer include switched outlets; however, they can be easily replicated by using a smart power strip like this one or thishttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 one. Also, as a reminder, when using an AVR with switched outlets, never plug the subwoofer into them as they are not designed for a high amperage device like a subwoofer.
d. Turntable/Phono: Although the 3312/13CI is the only model with a Phono input, you can connect a turntable to any model using a phono preamp similar to thishttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 one (if one is not built in to the turntable). Simply connect the preamp to any of the analog inputs on the AVR.
a. Dual subwoofers: If you have 2 (or more) subs that you want to connect, but don't need the features offered in the 2312/13CI or 3312/13CI (both of which have 2 sub preout jacks), simply pick up a RCA "Y" splitter at Monoprice (or Radio Shack or Walmart) and connect it to the single sub preout on the 2112/13CI or lower model and you'll create the same result. The 3312/13CI and 2312/13CI simply use an internal "Y" splitter.
b. Front Height / DSX Wide minimum requirements: To add either PLIIz (Front Height) speakers or DSX (height/wide) speakers you will need a minimum of a 5.0 setup (FL/C/FR/SL/SR).
c. Minimum number of speakers: All models can run with a minimum of 2 speakers up to 5.1/7.2 depending on the model. Audyssey will work just as well with 2 speakers as it will with 7 speakers.
d. Speaker Recommendation: When considering speakers, the general rule of thumb for a good 5.1 setup is you should budget at least 2x the cost of the AVR (ie. $500 AVR -> $1000+ 5.1 speaker setup), the bottom line is you're much better served with a lower quality AVR and better quality speakers, then a higher level AVR and lower quality speakers. If you're considering one of the lower level models (or your budget is < $500 for speakers), a good setup is either the Energy Take 5.1 Classic , Klipsch HDT 300 5.1, Jamo 5.1, or the Fluance 5.0 (so you'll need to add a sub). An even better deal is the 5.1 setup offered by forum sponsor Monoprice, which is a rebranded Energy Take 5.1 classic for roughly half the price. If you don't mind spending some time in the used market (eg. Craigslist), you can often find a $1000-$1500 5.1 original MSRP setup for $500 or less. Although Denon AVRs are designed to work with 6-8Ω speakers, you can generally safely use 4Ω speakers if the volume is limited to average listening volume only (ie. max volume roughly -20db). However, it's generally better to stick with 8Ω speakers unless using the 3312/13CI in which case you can add an external amp if necessary. Review thishttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 post for more information on the impact of speaker efficiency. Bottom line is that going from speakers rated at 86db efficiency to 89db efficiency is like going from a 75W AVR to a 150W AVR so look for more efficient speakers rather than a higher powered AVR. Ideally you would want to demo different speakers at a Best Buy/Magnolia or other Hi Fi shop, keeping in mind these stores generally do not run the AVRs EQ program (eg. Audyssey) so if you like their sound in the store, they'll likely sound even better when in your home after running AUTO SETUP (ie. Audyssey). If you are just starting to build your speaker setup, it's better to have better quality front three speakers L/C/R and sub and hold off on the surround speakers until you can afford them. If TV and movies will make up the majority of your audio listening, you'll ideally want the center speaker to be of the same quality as your front L/R speakers as 80%+ of the dialogue will come from the center speaker.
If you have a 5.1 surround setup from a HTIB that you want to use with your new AVR ... DON’T, at least not without checking what impedance they are rated. More often than not, HTIB speakers are generally only 2-4Ω speakers designed to work only with the receiver that came with the HTIB and in some cases have special wire connectors. If they are 6Ω or 8Ω speakers (as is the case with Denon HTIB setups), you're good to go, otherwise, sell the HTIB speaker setup on Craigslist or eBay and buy a stand-alone 8Ω speaker setup. Also, ideally stay away from Bose speaker systems as they generally don't work well with Audyssey due to having to be connected to the Bose Acoustimass module first so the AVR never sees the sub.
e. Speaker/Sub Volume: XX12 models: The easiest way to adjust individual speaker or sub volume is to press the "CH Level" button on the remote, select the speaker (or sub) you want to change and adjust the volume either up or down. XX13 models: Press the SETUP button on the remote and change the speaker levels in the Manual Setup menu. These adjustments can be made without impacting the Audyssey filters. However, before making adjustments to the sub (esp. increasing the volume), try leaving it at the current setting (after running AUTO SETUP) for at least 2-3 weeks to adjust to the "reference" setting the mixer intended rather than the boomy bass many are used to hearing from older model receivers. If after that time, you still feel you want the sub volume louder, then bump it up a few db using the remote/AVR menu to suit your "preference."
f. Speaker Wire: For speaker wire runs up to 80', a 16AWG wire will be sufficient. Longer runs should use 14AWG wire. A good place to buy speaker wire is from forum sponsor Monoprice.
g. Sub - Best location: To learn more about the best place in your room to place your subwoofer, follow the
h. Sub - Cable option: If you don't have a digital coax cable handy to connect the sub preout on the AVR to the sub, you can use the "yellow" composite video cable as a suitable substitute.
i. Surround Speaker Placement/Wire Connections: With a 5.0 or 5.1 setup, the surround speakers are considered "side" surrounds and should be connected to the speaker posts labeled "Surround" and ideally be placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and within 90-110 degrees from the main listening position (ie. to the "sides" of the main listening position and NOT the rear). When you add a 2nd set of surrounds in a 7.0 or 7.1 setup, or "rear" surrounds, they should be connected to the "Surr Back/Amp Assign" speaker posts and also ideally placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and about 3' directly behind the main listening position. See the Dolby Digital website here for more information. Note: If you only have a 5.0/5.1 setup and the surround speakers are already wired in the rear, then you must still connect those speakers to the "side" SURROUND speaker posts as this is the proper setup for a 5.0/5.1 setup. If you want to connect Front Heights or Front B speakers, you would also connect these speakers to the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts as well (except with the 3312/13CI) and set the AMP ASSIGN setting accordingly.
j. Tower Speakers w/built in sub: When using this type of speaker (eg. Def Tech) and no external sub, connect the LFE cable from the AVR sub preout to a "Y" splitter and then to each sub. After running AUTO SETUP, you will still want to set the front mains to SMALL (regardless of what the mfr's speaker manual recommends) as there are 8x (MultEQ XT) and 64x (MultEQ) more Audyssey sub filters than speaker filters. This configuration will also then allow you to adjust the sub channel volume to suit your preference.
a. Airplay icon not showing up: If the Airplay icon is no longer displayed, try one or more of the following steps to resolve the issue:
b. Airplay Speaker Not Available: This issue may be a result of not turning OFF the NET/USB source on the AVR when finished using it (as opposed to simply changing to another input). When you are finished with the Airplay audio, on XX12 remotes, try pressing the "Zone/Device Standby" button (ie. bottom row to the right of the TV INPUT button ... circle with line through the top), while on XX13 remotes, press/hold the ENTER button. Another solution is to uncheck the airplay symbol on the iPhone/iPad (putting it on the iphone/iPad speaker and thus breaking the handshake). This issue has also known to present when changing the [Option Setup - GUI- Net/USB] (XX12) / [Video - Audio Display - Audio] (XX13) setting from the default of "30s" to "Always" so if you have changed it, set it back to the factory default of "30s".
c. AVR randomly changes to other sources: This generally indicates a defective HDMI board although before shipping to an authorized repair facility for replacement, try resetting the microprocessor as listed in your Owner's manual.
d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes: A good rule of thumb is to not raise the master volume above 0db (relative) or 82 (absolute) as it may result in clipping/distortion from the speakers. You can set the "Volume Limit" setting to 0db to ensure this doesn't happen. If the AVR is shutting down at volumes lower than 0db (eg. -10db) then it is most likely the result of a loose speaker wire from one post on the back of the AVR touching another post so verify all speaker connections are clean. Pull the AVR out of the cabinet or rack if you have to in order to visually check the rear panel as more than one owner has learned a cursory look with a flash light may not be good enough to see the single wire strand that is causing the problem.
e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON: This occurs because you have the HDMI-CEC/ARC feature on your TV set to ON as well as HDMI Control on the AVR set to ON. There are several work-arounds to prevent this from happening depending on whether you:
want to pass audio from the TV back to the AVR:
Or, don't want to pass audio back to the AVR but do want to use the HDMI Control feature to turn the TV ON/OFF with the AVR:
f. Cannot see networked Denon on my computer/laptop: Try doing the following: Go to "control panel"..."my computer"... "my network places"..."show icons for networked upnp devices." If using a Verizon Actiontec router .... on the router, go to Advanced (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable IGMP Proxy which should resolve the issue. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.
g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV: Adjust the Dynamic EQ "Reference Offset" setting from 0 to 10db. You can also try increasing the center channel volume by using the “CH Level” button on the remote (XX12 models only) or adjusting the Center Dialogue setting (XX13 models only). And lastly, another option is to use the "Multi Ch Stereo" mode which will add the dialog to the surround speakers bringing it closer to your main listening position.
h. "Connection failed. Check the device": This error occurs with the networking models when the AVR is unable to connect to the home internet router/modem. Place the AVR in Standby and unplug for a few minutes. Reset the router or connect directly to the router if connecting wirelessly. You also may want to consider replacing the router if it is more than several years old with one that is capable of handling higher bandwidth. If you are using an Apple device, make sure that "Home Sharing" is turned ON (as it may have been turned OFF by updating the firmware/iOS). If you use a NETGEAR router, try disabling the UPnP mode. If the SSID of your router contains a "space", rename the router without the space.
i. Green screen on TV: This is usually the result of either a bad HDMI cable or HDMI handshake issue with the TV. Try replacing the HDMI cables with "High Speed" (1080p) cables. Also try the HDMI Handshake resolution tips listed in item (k) below. If after doing the suggested tips, you are still seeing a green screen, give Denon a call as there may be an issue with the AVR's HDMI board.
j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo: Sometimes when a TV station indicates the HD show is in DD 5.1, they will only broadcast a stereo signal but do it over a 5.1 audio track with blank channels so although the front panel display will say Dolby Digital you will only hear audio from your front L/R speakers. And because it is detected as DD 5.1, you cannot use a simulation mode (eg. DD PLII) to simulate 5.1 audio. Note also that not all HD channels are broadcast using DD 5.1 audio and even those that are advertised as DD 5.1, the station may only broadcast stereo 2.0.
k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts): Handshake issues will most often present as "audio dropouts" or sometimes video display issues. HDMI handshake issues with cable/sat boxes are quite common (with any brand of AVR) and are usually always the fault of the cable/sat box not being designed to be connected to an HDMI repeater (ie. AVR) which is why they work without issue connected directly to the TV. The first thing to try to resolve the issue is to ensure the source device having the issue has the latest firmware installed and has been reset (ie. powered down, unplugged for a few minutes, then powered back ON again). Next try following this turn ON order: TV first, wait a few seconds, then the AVR, wait a few seconds, and finally the source device. If this doesn't resolve the issue, then in some cases you may resolve the issue by trying the HDMI HDCP reset procedure listed below. With the 2312CI/3312CI (1913/XX13 CI models) if you are having a video issue, try setting the "Resolution" setting to the resolution of the TV(eg. 1080p) rather than the "Auto" setting.
HDMI HDCP reset
1. With all devices powered on, remove the two HDMI cables at both ends from the source device to the AVR and from the AVR to the TV.
2. Power off all devices and disconnect power cables to all devices.
3. Wait 10-15 minutes.
4. Reconnect HDMI and power cables to all devices.
5. Power on the devices in this order ... TV, wait a few secs, AVR, wait a few secs, and then source device (although this is the generally recommended order, in some instances, you may have better luck powering on the AVR first and then the TV, then the source last ... bottom line if it's still not working, try a different power on sequence).
If the issue only involves the cable/sat box, note that HDMI handshake issues (audio and/or video) with HDMI repeaters (ie. AVR of any brand) is quite common. Give your cable/sat box provider a call to see if there is a firmware update that can be applied to the box to resolve the issue although note that in some cases, a future firmware update to the cable/sat box may very well cause an HDMI handshake issue as well, so your best option to avoid the issue now (or in the future) is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV and also connect an optical cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR for surround audio. If you don't have an optical cable available, and your cable/sat box has a coax digital "orange" output, you can also use a coax digital cable (note: a "yellow" composite video RCA cable is a suitable substitute) and connect it to the SAT/CBL coax digital input on the AVR (ie. right next to the optical jack). Note that with this configuration (ie. HDMI straight to TV) you will lose the GUI/status menu for the cable/sat box, but you retain the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only with the AVR in Standby (eg. news, sports, wife, kids). Another option, if your AVR features a component video input is to connect both a component video cable and an optical (or digital coax) cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR noting that although you gain the GUI/status menu feature, you will lose the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only. You may also want to try upgrading to a different model cable/sat box.
You may also want to try inserting an HDMI switch in between the AVR and the TV.
l. HTPC won't pass audio/video: HTPC connections can be "iffy" at best. If you are having problems trying to connect your HTPC to the AVR, ensure the HDMI port on the HTPC is selected for audio/video output and that the latest firmware is installed on the HTPC video card or try a different video card if one is available. Try each of the HDMI inputs on the AVR (especially the one closest to the HDMI Monitor Out jack) as well as ensuring the HTPC is set to a standard TV resolution rather than the default resolution of the HTPC's display. If using a 6' HDMI cable, try using a longer HDMI cable (12'+) as this has been known to work in some instances. The issue likely involves incorrect EDID information being passed to the HTPC video card from jhe AVR. Refer to this post and this post both of which discuss an EDID Override procedure. If you are having problems using Windows Media Player then try using TVersity. If you are having problems playing .flac files, try using ffdshow. Sometimes connecting a Gefen HDMI Detective between the HTPC and the AVR has been known to resolve the EDID issues. The HDMI Detective also works well with DVI TV's that are having EDID issues. If you are trying to connect to a Panasonic plasma, and getting the 10 red blinking light on the Panny, check out thishttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 post for several solutions.
NVIDIA video card owners: Try the following: Bring up the NVIDIA control panel. For display options, select the AVR (not the HTPC display). AVR->Adjust desktop color settings->Apply the following enhancements->Content type reported to the display->Full-screen video (vice the default of AUTO).
If the HTPC is having issues reconnecting after coming out of "sleep" mode, then refer to this ATI solution or this NVIDIA solution for more info to resolve the issue.
Another option is to set the “Video Mode" setting to either "MOVIE" or "GAME" vice "AUTO."
m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video: Other than the possibility of an HDMI handshake, try connecting the HDMI cable to each of the other inputs on the AVR to determine if one HDMI jack works better for you with that input (previous year's models have shown that HDMI1 and HDMI2 react differently than the other inputs). Also try all the HDMI inputs on your TV as well as ensuring there is a tight, secure connection at both ends of the HDMI cable as sometimes the cable can just be loose. Note that just because the HDMI cable works when connected directly to the TV, doesn't necessarily mean it will work when connected to the AVR. When in doubt, try another HDMI cable that is confirmed to work with the AVR. You may also want to try inserting an HDMI switch between the AVR and the TV.
n. Menu/GUI won't display: The Denon XX12 remotes come preloaded to control several commonly used devices (not the case with the XX13 remotes). In order to get the AVR GUI/menu to display you must first press the "AMP" button and then the "Menu" button to let the remote know you want the menu from the AMP as opposed to another device's menu. Also note, on some XX12 units (1912, 2112CI) there is a defect issue with the NET/USB GUI not showing up, otherwise, in some cases unplugging the AVR for a few minutes will resolve the issue.
o. No audio from single speaker: If there is no audio coming from a single speaker, try swapping the speaker with another speaker to ensure it works. If it works, it's not the speaker. Place it back in its’ original location. Unhook the speaker wire at the AVR posts and connect it to a AA battery (+/+ and then tap the - to the -). If you hear static at the speaker, then there is no short in the wire itself and the issue is with the AVR channel. Try resetting the microprocessor as noted in post #5 to see if that resolves the issue. If not, time to call Denon or your local authorized repair facility.
p. No Video on AVR front panel display: If you suddenly find no video being displayed on the front panel display, check to see that the DIRECT button on the remote wasn't pressed and changed the surround mode to PURE DIRECT which turns off the video processing capability of the AVR. Also check to make sure all your cable connections are securely inserted into their jacks as little ones and cats have a habit of getting to the back panels when at their level.
q. Projector - no video displayed: If you are running an HDMI cable from the AVR to a projector that is longer than 20' and it won't pass 1080p video but will pass 720p, then the signal is too weak. Test this by using a shorter cable to the PJ. HDMI generally only works to about 15'-20' without issues, although some owners have indicated with a Monoprice 50' HDMI cable they have no issues. Monoprice also now sells active HDMI cables. . If replacing the cable is not possible, you'll likely want to try a powered HDMI extender. Check Monoprice as there are several models offered. For those of you using HDMI--> CAT 5/6 converters, and having video display issues, you may want to try using this HDMI voltage enhancerhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1.
r. PS3/Blu Ray Player (BDP)/Game machine - No video or intermittent video Issue: On the PS3 or Blu Ray player, set the "Deep Color Output" setting to OFF. Ensure the game machine is set to a standard TV resolution otherwise the AVR won't recognize the signal. Additionally, on the xBox, try turning off auto-detect display settings and forcing the display settings to match the TV.
s. Speaker volume change won't stick: When you make individual speaker/sub volume changes, the changes are global and will apply to all inputs unless you use a Quick Select for that particular input. After making the channel volume change, make sure to re-memorize the Quick Select button by pressing/holding the button for a few seconds until MEMORIZE is displayed.
t. Sub not working: If there is no audio coming from the sub, it could be the sub is dead, the sub's power cord isn't plugged in and the sub powered ON, the sub coax digital cable is bad, there is an issue with the AVR sub preout, or the AVR's speaker settings are incorrect. First make sure the sub is plugged in and powered ON. Remove the cable from the AVR sub preout jack and rub your finger over the connector tip. You should hear some static from the sub. If not, replace the cable with another cable (use a "yellow" composite video cable to test with) and try again. If still no noise from the sub, then you may have a busted sub. Otherwise if there is noise from the sub, the issue is with the AVR. Make sure that all speakers are set to SMALL (Manual Setup as well as 2CH Direct/Stereo custom settings if your model has this feature) with no lower than 80hz crossovers which will then pass all audio below 80hz to the sub. If you have your front speakers set to LARGE and the sub set to LFE, then although the sub will play the low bass in the 0.1 (LFE) channel during DD/DTS 5.1 movies, it will not play the low bass in stereo (2.0) music unless you change the sub setting to LFE+Main, although the issue with no bass during music is alleviated if the front mains are set to SMALL w/80hz crossovers as is suggested after running AUTO SETUP.
u. Surround mode changes: You change the surround mode for SD channels from stereo to DD PLII - Cinema but it changes back to stereo the next time you turn on the AVR. The most common cause for this is that you are using a Quick Select button to select the source and didn't re-memorize the new surround setting to the Quick Select by pressing/holding the QS button for 3-4 seconds after making the change. Otherwise, the Personal Memory Plus feature of the AVR will remember the setting and use that same setting the next time that source signal is received.
v. Unresolved Issues: If you are experiencing an issue with your AVR that is not listed in post #4 of either the Denon AVR-XX12 or AVR-XX13 Owner’s threads, and for which you cannot get a resolution either by (a) reviewing the information in this thread, (b) unplugging the AVR for a few minutes, (c) resetting the source device, (d) ensuring the source device has the firmware updated (if possible), (e) ensuring the AVR has it's firmware updated (if a networking model), (f) resetting the microprocessor using the procedure in your Owner’s manual, or (g) posting the issue in this thread, then call Denon CSR at 800-497-8921 and report the issue. If you have not reported it to Denon yourself personally, don't assume that Denon is aware of the issue. If the CSR response is "I've never heard of your issue before," ask the CSR if they can test it out on one of their units there and call you back. If they don't comply, go to Denon's website here, review their FAQ and if still no resolution, then register, and submit your issue with the AVR as well as the response provided by the 800 CSR via the "Ask A Question" tab. Regardless of how you submit your question, if you receive a response from Denon that resolves your issue, please post Denon's response here in the thread so others might learn from it as well.
w. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box: Setting Audyssey Dynamic Vol to OFF for the AT&T U-Verse source input should resolve this issue, otherwise you can bypass the AVR with HDMI from the box to the TV and optical from the box to the AVR.
x. White sparkles on TV: If you see white sparkles (ie. snow) displayed on the HDTV when the source is connected via HDMI, this may be a sign the HDMI cable is defective. Before replacing the cable; however, try powering on your equipment in this order: TV, AVR, source device and see if that resolves the issue. If not, you can find inexpensive High Speed (1080p) or Standard (720p/1080i) replacement cables at forum sponsor Monoprice. If it's happening with your Blu Ray player only, try setting Deep Color Output to OFF. Some LG BDP's output in Deep Color and don't have a setting to turn it OFF. If you are having issues with it, you may want to consider changing to another brand of BDP.
y. Why do my small speakers get set to LARGE?: The AVR will set any speaker to LARGE if it detects it can handle frequencies < 50hz in your room (regardless of what they are rated for on paper). If there is no sub in your setup, the front mains must default to LARGE, otherwise if there is a sub, then manually set the speaker to SMALL with at least a 60hz or 80hz crossover. For more information on bass management and the LARGE/SMALL settings refer to this article.
z. Why "Multi Ch In" and not Dolby TrueHD/DTS MA HD?: This is because your Blu Ray player is set to "PCM" and so it is decoding/uncompressing the audio to PCM. If you want the AVR to do it (won't matter audio quality wise which one decodes it) so you can see the compressed audio track on the AVR's front panel display then set the Blu Ray player to "bitstream" with Secondary audio to OFF.
za. Why only "STEREO" or "PLII" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?: This is because you likely had your Blu Ray player or PS3 connected directly to your TV (prior to adding the AVR) which could only receive a stereo signal. Reset the BDP/PS3 while connected to the AVR so it will pass a multi-channel signal (also see above para (x)). For the PS3, press/hold the Power ON button longer than usual until you hear a series of beeps which will reconfigure it to the AVR. Refer to your BDP or game box owner's manuals on how to reset them to pass multi-channel audio.
zb. Wii only displays in 4:3 aspect: If you have a 2112CI or lower model (ie. no video card), there is no ASPECT setting, so regardless of what you have the Wii set to, it will only display to 16:9 if you change your TV setting from "AUTO" to "Fullscreen" (or whatever the setting is to expand 4:3 content to 16:9). Note that any other picture display/format changes must also be made using the TV as there are no video display setting changes on the 2112CI (1713) and below.
zc. WIN 7 PC shows up as "Not Authorized": On the AVR, set DHCP to OFF, then put in a manual address for the router and set DHCP back to ON. Also check Control Panel --> Network and Internet --> View Network Computers and Devices --> Denon AVR-XXXX .... change setting from "Blocked" to "Allowed."
zd. Windows Media Player (WMP 11) audio files won't play from PC via wireless network: If you have an extremely large media library which includes artwork with the files and some of the files are not playing on the AVR, try using MediaMonkey to strip/hide the artwork from the AVR. First when adding the library to MediaMonkey, you have to go to tools\\options\\library and uncheck scan file directory for artwork. After the transfer you still have the artwork for every single song embedded in the tag. You can easily remove that by hitting the right button over the picture and after choosing remove image also check the option remove image from all the tracks in the album. Doing so should then allow you to play the album wirelessly to the AVR. Removing the artwork can be done with the FREE version, although review the website for the benefits of using the Gold version if additional capabilities are needed.
12. Zone 2
a. 2-CH Amp: The 1713 and 2112/13 CI models have Zone 2 pre-outs (the 3312/13CI also have Zone 3 pre-outs) which can be used to connect a red/white RCA cable to an external amp if you want to run a 7.1 setup in the main zone plus Zone 2 speakers (and/or Zone 3 - 3312/13CI), otherwise, if you only want to run a 5.1 setup, you can use the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts to power the Zone 2 speakers (7.1 models only). You can generally find used 2CH amps on Craigslist for ~$50 or you can buy this one or this onehttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=a...s-20&l=ur2&o=1 new. You can also use another AVR as well by connecting the RCA cable to the 2nd AVR's analog inputs and connecting the Zone 2 speakers to the FL/FR speaker posts on the Zone 2 AVR.
b. Source Limitations: XX12 models: No XX12 model can pass HDMI audio to Zone 2. The 1912, 2112CI, and 2312CI will only pass Airplay, internet radio and external analog only sources to Zone 2 (1712 can only do the latter as it is not a networking model); but cannot pass HDMI or other external digital audio sources connected to the AVR to Zone 2. This limitation is common to the vast majority (98%) of all AVRs on the market today. It applies whether you're using the powered Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts or the Zone 2 preout jacks to an external amp. The 3312CI is the exception in that it can pass analog sources to Zones 2/3 as well as PCM 2.0 over optical/digital coax/USB. So for example, if you want to connect an Apple TV, in addition to the HDMI cable you would also have to connect an optical cable to pass audio to Zone 2. With the 3312CI, you're good to go with just the optical cable connection; however, with the 2312CI and lower level models, you'll have to connect the optical cable from the ATV to an optical --> analog converter.
A work around if you want to pass ANY source (HDMI, digital, analog) to another room using a 7.1 model, is to use the "Amp Assign - Front B" setting with the understanding that the Front B speakers can only play the same source as is playing on the Front A speakers and the volume of the Front B speakers will be controlled by the volume of the Front A speakers. If you have a 1712 or higher XX12 model (or XX13 “CI” model), there are separate 2CH STEREO settings, so if you prefer not to use the STEREO mode in the main zone, you can setup a "custom" STEREO setting using the Front B speakers only (ie. Front B speakers set to LARGE and no subwoofer playing) to get audio only in the room with the Front B speakers whenever you use the remote to change to STEREO mode. If you want an independent source and volume control for Zone 2 (other than Airplay - see Networking - Airplay), you will have to use the "Amp Assign - Zone 2" setting.
c. Whole House Audio: If you have a Zone 2 model (1712/1913 or higher) and want to send the "same" audio to more than just one zone/room, you can connect a multi zone impedance matching speaker selector (eg. 4 zone speaker selector) to the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts. If adding more than 2 additional rooms; however, you will want to consider an AVR model that has Zone 2 pre-outs (XX12: ”CI” models, XX13: 1713, and all “CI” models) so that a separate 2CH amp can run the whole house speakers. You would then connect the speaker selector between the speakers and the external amp. For more information on whole house audio setups, review this website.
d. Wireless Headphones: One advantage of having a model with Zone 2 pre-outs (ie.1713 and “CI” models), is that you can connect a set of analog wireless headphones (eg. Sennheiser) and listen to music elsewhere in the house while someone is watching a movie or playing a game in the main zone.
Disclaimer: All information posted above is believed to be accurate. If you find that to not be the case, please PM me with the corrected information to include links which may no longer work. Also if you have any other 3rd party product recommendations please PM with that information as well.
Known Issues for the Denon AVR-XX12 models
7/16/11: Resolved by firmware update.
2. A 2112CI owner has noted that HDMI Standby pass through defaults to TV when HDMI-CEC on the TV is set to ON (tested by noting the pass through feature doesn't work unless HDMI-CEC on the TV is set to OFF). This result is to be expected when the AVR is first tuned ON, however, may or may not be designed to do the same thing when in Standby. This issue may affect Samsung (Anynet+) TV's only as a Panasonic (VierraLink) owner indicated no issue with his TV. The workaround (as is also the case when the AVR is ON) is to set ARC or HDMI-CEC on the TV to OFF when not using that feature. You can also simply use an optical cable connection from the TV to the AVR rather than using ARC for the same quality audio.
6/26/11: Denon's response: This is acting as designed and therefore will not be changed via a firmware update. If you have a Samsung or other brand that results in this issue, you'll have to use one of the workarounds listed above.
3. The Denon REMOTE App for the iPhone, iPod Touch and iPad is no longer functioning correctly after the recent AVR firmware updates to the 1912, 2312CI, and 3312CI (does not apply to the 2112CI).
7/23/11: Resolved by firmware update.
2/24/12: Denon's response: The Japan engineers are currently investigating this issue.
5. When using the 12v trigger on the 2312CI, it will not respond when either the TUNER or GAME2 port is selected.
as of 11/1/11: Resolved by firmware update.
6. After July 12, Rhapsody account holders will no longer be able to access your accounts via the AVR due to an update Rhapsody made to their website. If you have a Premium Plus account, you can use either an iphone app or android phone app as noted in Post 3, para 8f. Give Rhapsody customer service a call to explain Denon has not pushed a firmware update yet and they should give you credit for the missed access time.
7/23/11: Resolved by firmware update.
7. Sometimes the GUI will not appear when the NET/USB source is selected on the networking models.
1/23/12: Denon's response: Although reported as a hardware issue, this issue is not wide spread on all units and is being handled on a case by case basis by Denon service. Several work arounds include setting HDMI Control to OFF or unplugging the AVR for 10 minutes, or better yet, unplugging it overnight (neither of which should reset any settings). Yet, another solution has been to turn on the AVR first, followed by the TV.
8. When Audyssey MultEQ XT is enabled on the 1712, the "XT" does not light up on the front panel display (although it is enabled).
2/22/12: Resolved by firmware update. This is a minor "display" issue only. Note however that the fact that you can run 8 mic positions (vice only 6 with MultEQ) indicates the unit does indeed have MultEQ XT. The only way to get the firmware updated is taking it to an authorized repair facility.
9. Adding an internet radio preset that contains either an asterisk (*) or an apostrophe(') in its name results in "Connection Error" and disables the ability to use a web browser to control internet radio. Note: This issue has also been seen on the 3310CI as well (so likely also applies to all XX10 and XX11 networking models as well).
10. Pandora users have noticed some glitches to include greyed out items in the GUI menu and conflicts with Internet radio selections. At least one owner noted that backing out of Pandora and coming back in resolved the issue. Note this issue is different from the issue of not being able to login to Pandora which has subsequently been fixed for all XX12 and XX13 models via a firmware update as noted below in post #6.
How do I Reset my Denon AVR-XX12 model?
When the AVR is acting up or doing something strange, the first thing to try is to turn the AVR to Standby and unplug it for about 10 minutes, then plug back in and turn ON. If this doesn't resolve the issue, then you'll need to reset the microprocessor. You'll also want to reset the microprocessor if you purchased the AVR as an "open box" or demo unit to ensure all settings are returned to their factory defaults. For the 1912 and below, jot down any settings you want to return to as all settings will be wiped out and require you to run AUTO SETUP again. The instructions are listed in your owner's manual as shown below ...
Firmware Update Information for Denon AVR-XX12 models
(1) Denon does not send out any kind of notification that a firmware update is available for the non-networking models. If you are experiencing any issues, review post #4 to see if it is listed there. Regardless, give Denon a call (800-497-8921) to determine your next course of action.
(2) Firmware updates for the 1312, 1612, and 1712 will require the unit being either dropped off at or shipped (at owner's expense) to a Denon authorized repair facility that is able to install updates to these models (as not all facilities will be able to install them). The PanurgyOEM facility in NJ is able to repair/install firmware to any model. Note that the non-networking models generally do not get any firmware updates unless there is a major issue (AFAIK as of 5/1/12 there are no firmware updates for these non-networking models), while past year's networking models generally have gotten about 6-10 updates over the first year or two after being released.
(3) Firmware updates for the network models 1912, 2112CI, 2312CI, and 3312CI can be done by the owner via a network connection to the Denon servers. Although it's not necessary to update your unit if you are not experiencing any problems, it's generally a good idea to keep it updated so that if there are any problems with the update the unit will still be covered under warranty. If the update process is stuck on "Authenticating", ensure a source other than NET/USB is selected and let it continue for up to a few hours and it should eventually begin the update process (although note that Denon's servers have been known to crash the first day of release due to the overload, so you may awant to wait a few days before trying again). Some have found that rather than selecting "Check for Update", instead simply select "Start Update" and this may avoid the "Authenticating" issue. The update process generally doesn't take more than 30 minutes once the update actually begins and also generally does not erase any settings, although it's always a good idea to SAVE the settings file (CI models only) using the Web Control feature prior to doing the update just in case. Yet another owner, found that disconnecting ALL sources from the unit enabled the update to continue when it had not otherwise been able to for well over a year.
During the update, the AVR will go into Standby mode, but will continue to update status on the front panel display. If the updates seems to be hung up (ie. goes beyond 1 hour), press and hold the ON/Standby power button for at least 5 seconds until "Update Retry" appears on the display at which point the update should continue. If still no luck with the update, perform a Network Reset as shown in post #5 above. Also note, that once the update has completed, there is no way of returning to an earlier version of firmware.
Networking model owner's will be notified automatically when there is a firmware update when the AVR is turned ON as long as the Notification Update setting is set to ON (factory default). For more information refer to Network Setup-Other-Notification-Update in your respective Owner's manual. To manually check for an update, refer to Network Setup-Other-Firmware Update-Check for Update in your manual.
(4) There is currently no other option for firmware updates other than what is listed above (ie. not via USB), so if you cannot get the unit to update, it will require being sent in to a repair facility. If the update fails, press and hold the ON/STANDBY on the main unit for more than 5 seconds, or remove and re-insert the power cord. “Update retry” appears on the display and update restarts from the point at which update failed. If the error continues despite this, check the network environment (ie. reset the router, replace the router with a more current/robust model, or wire directly to the router if connecting wirelessly).
(5) Denon will sometimes make "minor" changes to the firmware with each new manufacturing production run, so it's not unusual to see a higher version number on a newer unit of the same model. For the non-networking models, this doesn't mean an older unit needs to be returned to get the firmware updated, rather it only needs to be updated if you are experiencing a problem that resetting the microprocessor will not resolve. The year/month the unit was mfr'd can be determined by looking at the first 3 digits of the serial number (eg. 104xxxxxxxx would be April 2011) which can be found on the original box as well as using the procedure below:
(6) There are two firmware notification settings, both of which default to "ON" from the factory..... "Update" (fixes) and "Upgrade" (new feature). If at some point there is an "upgrade" it will most likely be at cost (generally $50-$100). When either an "update" or "upgrade" is available the networking models will display a message alerting you to this "update" or "upgrade" every time you turn on the AVR. If you prefer not to install the update/upgrade then simply change the appropriate setting at System Setup ---> Network Setup ---> Other ---> Notification ---> Update/Upgrade to OFF and it will go away.
The current firmware version can be determined by the following procedure ...
1 - Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 - Press ON/STANDBY while simultaneously pressing the last two buttons just beneath the lower right side of the front panel display: "DIMMER" (1312, 1612 and 1712) / "iPod >" (1912, 2112CI and 2312CI) / "TUNER PRESET CHANNEL +" (3312CI) and "STATUS."
3 - Once the AVR powers on, release the two buttons.
4 - Each time you press the STATUS button, you will cycle through a different config item to include the Main Ver # and Sub Ver #
5 - To return the AVR to it's normal mode, turn off the power using ON/STANDBY and power back on normally.
The above procedure is being provided primarily for the networking model owners as a way to determine if they have the most current firmware update.
This area will be used to track the changelog of the firmware updates for the network models (1912, 2112CI, 2312CI, 3312CI). At some point, Denon is expected to start providing this information on their Updates webpage again.
- There is a possibility that the product malfunctions by Radio Text of a character string that is larger then the regulation.
- The input-output of the HDMI terminal is connected and CEC is "ON." The image might not output from HDMI when "MAIN ZONE" is "OFF/ON."
- There's a possibility that the screen shakes when the input signal of "480i/576i/1080i_50/60Hz_Film Source" is converted into the progressive signal.
- Allows for connection to Rhapsody servers.
- Denon REMOTE app fixed.
4. 7/24/11 - 12/6/11
- (additional updates - no info available)
- Control software change
- Firmware update is impossible, and the error message of "Connection Fail 25" is displayed.
- Changed the default Internet radio station of PRESET CHANNEL3 from "1.fm Classical Musick" to "98.1 Klassik Radio FM".
- Improve network connectivity
- Airplay doesn't operate with a particular model of NEC router
- Front panel display flickers when using "Pure Direct" mode with RDS broadcast of FM.
- Resolves Pandora connection issues due to configuration changes made by Pandora.
- DTS-HD MA/96k (peak bit rate) stream results in noise or no sound output
- Noise occurs in the play of DD+ stream of Netflix
- Same as 3312CI
- Same as 3312CI, plus
- It doesn't change from AUTO even if the setting of the progressive mode is switched from AUTO to "Video1/Video2".
- Same as 3312CI
4. 7/24/11 - 12/6/11
- Same as 3312CI
- Same as 3312CI
- Same as 3312CI
- Same as 3312CI
- Same as 3312CI
- Fixes inability to pass full range video 0-255 signal.
- Same as 3312CI above for same date.
- Firmware update impossible, error message "Connection Fail 25"
- Countermeasure of the Podcast play defect in Internet radio.
- Ethernet connectivity issues
6. 5/24/12 [Note: Some owners have indicated the update taking as much as 3-4 hours, however, eventually completed, so you can either give it a try or give it a week to let Denon work out the issues with the update.]
- Missing of 1 vertical line of pixel
- Update notification in English is wrong
- AirPlay doesn't operate, when a particular router of NEC is used
- When AVR connects with Toshiba DBR-Z150 via HDMI, and BD playing is stopped and plays it again, the level of the sound pressure increases 6dB
- When turn on the "Pure-direct" by the RDS broadcast of FM, the display is flickering
- Same as 3312CI
- An unnecessary display might occur at the time of "Power Off" and "A/C Off."
- There is no sound from the surround back speakers when DTS-Express (DTS-LBR) (ie. "secondary audio") is played, because remapping is not done when speaker config is 5.1 + SBL/R.
- This was likely the failed Rhapsody update and is no longer available as Denon must do another corrected update.
- Same as 3312CI above for same date.
- Same as 2112CI above for same date, plus ..
- Incorrect network behavior
- Black display when iPod is replaced
- Video signal (0-255) doesn't do HDMI pass through
- "XT" does not display on front panel after running AUTO SETUP (non-USA units only)
- Improvement in firmware update download time
- USB connectivity issue (interaction with DM860 SubAssy)
- Same as 2112CI above for same date
- Connection to Pandora servers (** NOTE: There may be no notification for this update, so you will have to access the setting manually .... via System Setup -- Option Setup -- Firmware Update -- Start)
** NOTE: The changelog information above is provided as is, without any further explanation and only when I am able to obtain it. If the information listed above doesn't make sense, please don't ask for clarification, as I have none.
On the box of the 1912 it says 125 watts x 7 channel and in the owner's manual that number is listed also, yet I've always read it was 90 watts x 7 channel and that's the figure listed on Denon's website. Confusing or am I confused?
Am still trying to get it set up optimally for 2 channel stereo. So far still doesn't sound as good as my old Yamaha RX-750.
The 125W is rated at 6 ohms with a higher THD (distortion) rather then the 90W which is rated at 8 ohms. Some vendors use the higher number for marketing purposes to make a perspective buyer think the AVR is more powerful when comparing to another AVR. This is especially common with HTIB systems rated at 1000W when in actuality that rating is at 4 ohms, and closer to 500W when at 8 ohms.
Have you run AUTO SETUP?
Also the ..12 models are uglier than last.
Just finished running AUTO SETUP. Wow, what a difference! There's the sound I was looking for!
I know this might not be the thread to ask this question but is there any deals on the 1912 or 2112 or 2312 granted the latter 2 aren't out yet.
I remember when last year models hit there were deals right out of the gate.
If you "call" (ie. use the phone) the usual authorized resellers that provide discounts (ie. Electronics Expo, 6Ave, J&R) you'll likely get the best deal, although again, you must "call" as they will list MSRP on their websites. Also, sometimes there will be coupon codes available, however, you can generally get the same deal by "calling" them.
Cheers mate. I knew about them but hadn't bother to call yet because I'm not sure if I want the 2112 or the 2312 and also they aren't out yet.
Considering the 2112CI offers MultEQ XT for only $50 more than the 1912, as long as there is no rush, IMHO the 2112CI is a much better purchase.
I'm also holding out until the multEQ XT models start shipping. I have an AppleTV for networking and a house full of iPads and iPhones, so I'll probably end up a 1712. I've been watching for deals on the 3311 since it's an outgoing model, but the price isn't really moving. Ah, the waiting game.
Keep in mind the 1712 is NOT a networking model so you would not be able to use the Web Control feature to control the AVR with your iPhone or iPad.
Does anybody know what models Best Buy will carry this year? There is not a magnolia near me and I would like to try out the 2312 or 2112. Last year the highest model the BBs near me had was the 791 so I'm afraid that the 1912 will be the highest one.
Originally Posted by rob968
I'm also holding out until the multEQ XT models start shipping. I have an AppleTV for networking and a house full of iPads and iPhones, so I'll probably end up a 1712. I've been watching for deals on the 3311 since it's an outgoing model, but the price isn't really moving. Ah, the waiting game.
The 3310 dropped pretty quick last year after the 3311 was released. I'm watching Amazon right now but I haven't seen anything. I got my 3310 in October last year and that's when the prices were really low. The 991 is on sale on Amazon but it doesn't have preamp outputs if that matters to you. The 1712 doesn't either so I'm guessing its a non issue.
You are likely correct ... 1912 is the best you'll get which is what a local non-Magnolia store just told me is the case with their store. Although keep in mind, as I pointed out in an earlier post, Best Buy does not set up Audyssey so you won't be able to check out MultEQ XT.
I have a question about the new models. I have a 3808 so I am a fan of Denon and the CEO of our company is in need of 2 new receivers for her house. They currently own a newish Onkyo 575 which is apparently exhibiting symptoms that alot of the Onkyo of late are with regard to HDMI problems especially with a PS3. This receiver was relatively cheap so they don't want to go to trouble of sending the thing in to be fixed so I am trying to steer them toward Denon. It is in a dedicated home theater room outputting to a front projector. They have a second receiver that is in a living room that is pretty old and it is hooked up to a large Mitz rear projection set that is HD but only has component inputs. I was thinking that the 3311, or now probably 3312 would be a good choice for the theater and maybe a lower end model for their living room but I need to confirm the receiver will take a HDMI in from a Dish box and output over component with no trouble. From what I have read the on screen menu is only available over HDMI, is this true? If so what is the lowers model they should consider?
Just as with your 3808 there is no HDMI --> component video down conversion so she would need to get one of the models that has component video IN/OUT jacks (ie. 1712, 2312CI, or 3312CI); however, according to the Owner manuals, the 3312CI is the only XX12 model that will display the OSD/menu over component output. Her best bet for the living room would be last year's 2311CI which will has component IN/OUT jacks and will display the OSD/menu over the HDMI and component outputs.
That's a good point. I was originally thinking that networking isn't needed because the appletv will do all the media feeding, but it might be nice to control volume with the iDevices. If I fire up a zone 2, can the denon app give me separate volume control for each zone? I have a harmony one remote for the system, otherwise.
If I'm using a separate power amp and only 5.1 speakers, which is the cheapest option for me? I want all of the bells and whistles with the highest possible sound quality. I will also need a bypass option for 2 channel music.
The 2312 looks like the best option unless I'm reading it wrong.
If I'm using a separate power amp
sorry, the 3312 is the ONLY model in the current lineup that has pre-amp outputs.
if budget is a concern there, you might be able to find a closeout deal on the 3311...
Do any of the Denon receivers support HDMI pass thru? I want to be able to watch t.v. without the receiver being on all the time. I went to a local store and they told me Onkyo was the only brand they had that support this? They offered Yamaha, Pio, Denon, Onkyo, etc. Is this true?
Originally Posted by DunnoAV
Do any of the Denon receivers support HDMI pass thru? I want to be able to watch t.v. without the receiver being on all the time. I went to a local store and they told me Onkyo was the only brand they had that support this? They offered Yamaha, Pio, Denon, Onkyo, etc. Is this true?
Hi DunnoAV, Denon support HDMI pass thru since 2008/2009 model.
New 1612 and above support HDMI pass thru (1312 does not).
Should you note the drop of ABT chips as one of the "what's new with the xx12 models?"
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