Onkyo TX NR709 Owners' Thread - Page 83 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2461 of 2487 Old 12-11-2014, 01:20 PM
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Passthrough

Hello,

I have my Apple TV connected to the TX-NR709 where I get the passthrough so that I don't need to have the receiver on all the time when I watch it. I'd like to get a Blu-Ray player, which I often use to play CDs. If I connect the player to the receiver, can that be set to passthrough as well so that if I'm watching a movie, I don't need to have the receiver on and watch through the tv, or does this receiver only handle one passthrough?
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post #2462 of 2487 Old 12-12-2014, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedegasbulbo View Post
Hello,

I have my Apple TV connected to the TX-NR709 where I get the passthrough so that I don't need to have the receiver on all the time when I watch it. I'd like to get a Blu-Ray player, which I often use to play CDs. If I connect the player to the receiver, can that be set to passthrough as well so that if I'm watching a movie, I don't need to have the receiver on and watch through the tv, or does this receiver only handle one passthrough?
As your question to Duane on the Onkyo USA Facebook page.... he's very responsive.
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post #2463 of 2487 Old 12-12-2014, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedegasbulbo View Post
Hello,

I have my Apple TV connected to the TX-NR709 where I get the passthrough so that I don't need to have the receiver on all the time when I watch it. I'd like to get a Blu-Ray player, which I often use to play CDs. If I connect the player to the receiver, can that be set to passthrough as well so that if I'm watching a movie, I don't need to have the receiver on and watch through the tv, or does this receiver only handle one passthrough?
Yes, I'm pretty sure it can, but I would think you need to change the setting as to what input is auto-selected when turned off. That might be a problem.
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post #2464 of 2487 Old 12-27-2014, 05:20 PM
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Default Input Selection

I have not been on this thread in some time so I apologize in advance if this issue has been previously addressed. When I power the unit on the default input is VCR/DVR IHDMI 2) and I would like it to be CAB/SAT (HDMI 3) since I usually watch cable TV with the unit on. How can I fix this so the default input is CAB/SAT when I power the unit on. Thanks, For some reason the unit defaults to HDMI 2. In fact I literally switched the cable box to HDMI 2 (and the VCR/DVR to HDMI 3) so the cable will be the default but this doesn't seem the correct fix.

Last edited by Munga7; 12-27-2014 at 07:40 PM.
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post #2465 of 2487 Old 01-05-2015, 07:35 PM
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Optical Out Line Level Lower

Hello- I have just tried connecting my macbook pro to one of the optical inputs (TV/CD). I've noticed that the volume is lower than when I wirelessly stream audio via the macbook (Apple TV is using the VCR/DVR input. Any ideas as to why? Thanks!
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post #2466 of 2487 Old 01-16-2015, 04:42 PM
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Hello and I'm sure this has been asked but I don't have time to read through all 80 some pages of posts. Has any one come up with a permanent fix for the HDMI board issue? I have tried the oven trick twice now and it works for a few weeks and then fails again.

Thanks
Mike
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post #2467 of 2487 Old 01-16-2015, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg732 View Post
Hello and I'm sure this has been asked but I don't have time to read through all 80 some pages of posts. Has any one come up with a permanent fix for the HDMI board issue? I have tried the oven trick twice now and it works for a few weeks and then fails again.

Thanks
Mike

Onkyo acknowledges failed units and extending warrranties until 2018


You DID see this didn't you??? It's right at the top of the page here.


Ed
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post #2468 of 2487 Old 01-16-2015, 08:07 PM
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Onkyo acknowledges failed units and extending warrranties until 2018


You DID see this didn't you??? It's right at the top of the page here.


Ed

His has been in the oven....not sure if Onkyo will touch it now.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #2469 of 2487 Old 01-16-2015, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by NODES View Post
His has been in the oven....not sure if Onkyo will touch it now.

I wouldn't think they could tell----unless it smells like pizza or something.


Ed
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post #2470 of 2487 Old 01-17-2015, 12:07 AM
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I'm not to the original owner, plus its been serviced before under warenty. So I don't know if they will fix it.
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post #2471 of 2487 Old 01-17-2015, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mpg732 View Post
I'm not to the original owner, plus its been serviced before under warenty. So I don't know if they will fix it.
You don't have to be the original owner, you don't need a receipt and I've seen several posts where one had been repaired previously. Try it. Whatta ya have to lose?


Ed
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post #2472 of 2487 Old 01-17-2015, 02:42 PM
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They should mine was a refurb and I got it on CL for 300$ a year and a half ago and also changed out the cap's and tried the oven thing but didn't help me at all!!lol
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post #2473 of 2487 Old 01-17-2015, 02:44 PM
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Is the 709 better than the 737? Only difference 4k and hdmi 2.0?

Why doesn't 737 support Audyssey DSX, Audyssey Dynamic Volume, Dynamic EQ and Additional Volume Management like Dolby?

http://www.se.onkyo.com/en/product-c...95,26797,26265

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post #2474 of 2487 Old 01-17-2015, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by azz7686 View Post
They should mine was a refurb and I got it on CL for 300$ a year and a half ago and also changed out the cap's and tried the oven thing but didn't help me at all!!lol
My understanding that the 709 doesn't suffer from the caps, only the THX chip underscoring it self from heat issues. When it fails, you also lose network connection. How long did you cook it and at what temp?
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post #2475 of 2487 Old 01-17-2015, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by B|G1 View Post
Is the 709 better than the 737? Only difference 4k and hdmi 2.0?

Why doesn't 737 support Audyssey DSX, Audyssey Dynamic Volume, Dynamic EQ and Additional Volume Management like Dolby?

http://www.se.onkyo.com/en/product-c...95,26797,26265

Onkyo has removed Audyssey from all the receivers.They are now using their own room calibration software.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #2476 of 2487 Old 01-18-2015, 12:26 AM
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Aha.

Anyone with experience of Onkyos own?

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post #2477 of 2487 Old 01-18-2015, 12:50 AM
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Aha.

Anyone with experience of Onkyos own?

Well no where near Audyssey...maybe in time they will catch up.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #2478 of 2487 Old 01-18-2015, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by NODES View Post
Well no where near Audyssey...maybe in time they will catch up.
Hehe, to bad... too expensive to keep Audyssey?

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post #2479 of 2487 Old 01-18-2015, 12:58 AM
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Hehe, to bad... too expensive to keep Audyssey?

I guess trying to cut corners to keep up with the turning economy.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #2480 of 2487 Old 01-18-2015, 01:03 AM
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I guess trying to cut corners to keep up with the turning economy.
AccuEQ Vs Audyssey

Wellwell... Maybe I will hold on to my Onkyo 709... I hope that 709 can passthrough 4k. I have disabled video processing..

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post #2481 of 2487 Old 01-18-2015, 09:31 AM
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Yes network was out also, I could do the on/off thing like 6-8 times get it to come on or have the top off and use a heat gun to heat up that chip for 10-15 seconds that usually did the trick but who wants to do that every time I even saw posts where people mounted halogen lights in their case with a switch to heat them up(this is where I got the idea). I don't quite remember the temp but it was a you tube post you wrap the board with aluminum foil and expose the chip some where around 450F and 20 minutes or something like that! After replacing the caps the heat gun trick no longer worked so it sat in my garage for a few weeks until I stumbled across this forum and tried it and luckily I got the board replaced, even tho its used in the garage now cause I ordered a new receiver when I thought I was out a receiver. I'm happier with new AVR and like having v-tuner in garage cause I get my favorite channel out there now since they added it to v-tuner and I live just a few miles to far to receive it on regular tuner!!
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post #2482 of 2487 Old 01-18-2015, 06:05 PM
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I'd like to connect a projector to the first HDMI and use it with my 5.1 speaker setup, and connect the TV (mounted on another wall) to the second HDMI and use it with its built-in speakers. Is this possible with the 709? Any recommended settings?

Thanks!
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post #2483 of 2487 Old 01-20-2015, 12:13 PM
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Subwoofer isn't enabled when playing music from "Net - vTuner"
Tried to enable "Stereo" mode but subwoofer ain't playing... bug? All other music modes sounds crap, Stereo mode is best.

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post #2484 of 2487 Old 01-21-2015, 11:03 PM
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No subwoofer sound

I would like to note that my nr709 has already been out for repair once, but ever since it has been working awesomely. currently all the speakers and subwoofer I have connected to the nr709 are onkyo branded and are the ones that came with an old Onkyo HTIB 7.1 system I had bought long ago. If i remember correctly, it was called ht 6100.

As of recently, the subwoofer will not come on. The onkyo subwoofer has a red light at the front that changes to blue when it detects a bass signal, red is just confirmation that is receiving power from the outlet. No matter what Audio mode I put, or what source I select, the subwoofer will not come on. I simply get no sound.

Also, this had happened before about a month ago. WHen it happened then, I tried changing the cables and and resetting the receiver and such, and it didnt work, until it suddenly worked on its own again. Now, just as suddenly, it isnt working.

I have had this subwoofer for 5+ years. Is it time to replace it? Or is something wrong with my receiver? Has anybody had similar problems with this particular receiver?

Thank you very much for your time.
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post #2485 of 2487 Old 01-23-2015, 02:34 AM
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So funniest thing, turns out the problem is something is wrong with my surge protector, where the sub woofer will not power up unless I plug it elsewhere. Unfortunately (or fortunately, really) I didn't realize until I went to Frys and pulled the trigger on a klipsch r 12sw for $314 and a pair of klipsch rf42 II's for $100 each. So when I get home and set it all up, I realized the new sub woofer wasn't working either until I switched it to a different outlet..and then realized I didn't really need a new one after all. But hey, it's a huge upgrade from onkyo htib satellites and sub, so what the heck why not lol
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post #2486 of 2487 Old 01-24-2015, 11:02 AM
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So funniest thing, turns out the problem is something is wrong with my surge protector, where the sub woofer will not power up unless I plug it elsewhere. Unfortunately (or fortunately, really) I didn't realize until I went to Frys and pulled the trigger on a klipsch r 12sw for $314 and a pair of klipsch rf42 II's for $100 each. So when I get home and set it all up, I realized the new sub woofer wasn't working either until I switched it to a different outlet..and then realized I didn't really need a new one after all. But hey, it's a huge upgrade from onkyo htib satellites and sub, so what the heck why not lol
Well if it makes you feel better I love my Klipsch. The sound great with my Onkyo "least when it worked"...
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post #2487 of 2487 Unread Today, 03:55 AM
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Bought a second hand TX-NR709 with HDMI issues. I have done some things and they appeared to have worked. Although I am not sure which of these was the most help

1. When I inspected the underside of the HDMI board, I noticed yellowing of the network connector pins to the board (indicates heat). So I resoldered the network pins to the board. I know that this appeared to fix a problem where if I turned up the volume when playing internet music, the unit trips and turns off
2. Heated the board in the oven (aluminum foiled with just the DTS chip exposed). Don't quite know what the impact of this long term
3. I rigged a mechanical clamp to the DTS BGA chip. The clamp straddles the width of the HDMI board, and it contacts (and presses down on) both the HDMI chip and another chip which appeared to be quite hot. The clamps are made from heat sink material and are clamped at each end with screws. I did not have to worry about the end which fits inside the unit. However I had to remove the back plate of the unit, make a cutout at the back next to the network connector to allow the clamp to stick out. If there is a problem later, I can tighten the screws on both ends of the clamp to press the DTS chip against the board (and hopefully if there are poor solder connections later, the mechanical clamp would help). I had to use stand offs to make sure clamp would not contact HDMI board components. For the chip side, I used U-shaped heat sinks as standoffs. The clamps fitted the inside of the U. On the other side, I cut small pieces of blank PCBs (two layers). I had 5 supports at the bottom - 3 around the bottom side of the DTS chip and one at each end of the board. The supports around the chip had to be small to fit around the surface components. Hopefully this will help overcome further heat issues with the chip.
4. While I had the unit open, I noted that the rectifier (D5SBA60) was very hot. This is on the board below the HDMI board and has an aluminum plate as a heat sink. I desoldered the rectifier and mounted it on another aluminum plate (with another video card heat sink) to a location to the front left of the unit. I noticed after relocating this chip, it ran a lot cooler. I think the original solder must have been making poor contact and therefore was generating a lot of heat. The reason why I shifted the chip was because the heat from it would have been moving up and sitting on the underside of the HDMI board, especially at the back (eg, the network connector). Any fan mounted at the top of the unit would have a hard time clearing this heat.

I had the unit working even before I did steps 3 and 4. However I am somewhat convinced with the heating behaviour of the rectifier before and after relocating (Step 4) that this must have some effect. For those with nothing to lose, I suggest that you move this chip slightly (to reconnect the solder) if you are playing around with the HDMI board. If it helps, you can re-do the solder on the 4 pins of the rectifier. Although be warned, the existing solder is pretty hard to shift

Good luck - and unfortunately this is not a thread about tweaking the unit to get better sound, but that would of course be the next step. And of course a picture is worth a thousand words - see the unit open before the back plate was modified
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