Originally Posted by dem45133
but thank you for your responses. After the shock at high end store, I bought a spool (250 ft) of 14/2 "speaker wire" from Lowes. Didn't see any larger there. I am concerned though about the aluminum ground conductor. We'll hook it up and see (listen).
Just for the sake of argument and to stir the pot, here is what Vandersteen says about wires.
From Vandersteen's FAQ section of their webpage:
Roger Russell's webpage explains that whole block of PR
copy quite well - they aren't going to tell you that speaker wire makes no difference because the audiophools who don't feel validated if they can't spend $55,000/pair on 20 ft of speaker cable wouldn't buy their products if they didn't just say "do whatever you want". It's all about market appeal. You're perfectly well handled by your 14/2, unless you're running a ton of power or a huge length.
Find a chart somewhere if you're really interested in length/gauge/power limits. A truncated one is available from the below Roger Russell link, Bose publishes one (and actually suggests standard lamp cord for all wiring), Wikipedia has a VERY complete one, and I'm sure others exist.
Originally Posted by dem45133
but its definitely not copper or copper colored... its silver colored. Advertised on the label for Sound, Security, and Alarm, 14/2 CL3 for indoor use. Made by CCI (Coleman Cable Inc, Waukeegon, IL .... might actually be Made in the USA, says it is)
Concern is that on a higher than typical engineered system such as the Vandersteens, that the silver conductor will pass electrons differently than the copper side is feeding them... It has to travel differently than the copper side doesn't it? If so, what does than do to the sonic qualities (or lack of)?
Haven't open then spool...can take it back yet. Just trying to get the best I can out of these Vandersteen 2Ce's when fed with a pair (bi-amp'd) of Rotel RB980-BX's. But I can't justify the OFC costs, at least theirs.
The bi-amping is also probably a waste of wire and equipment unless its done in the most complex way possible (in other words, pull the crossovers out of the speakers and use active components to drive amplifiers - it will take quite a lot of tuning to get it right), not to stir things up any more, but most "audiophile things" are hype. If you aren't at least running active crossovers I'd say it's still a waste of equipment and time (in other words, if you've just got a receiver/preamp set to bi-amp or are feeding the signal full duplex to the amps, while it may provide some minor benefit, is a huge waste of power).
"Sorry. Proper biamping requires the removal of the built-in passive crossovers in the speakers and the design/construction of custom active crossovers to fit between the preamp/processor and the power amps." - Kal Rubinson
"If I don't believe that expensive speaker wire makes an audible difference, why is it used inside the IDS-25 speaker system? The answer is very simple. IDS is out to sell speakers and not everyone believes in ordinary wire. The explanation is the same as what McIntosh found at shows and is described in the section above. Cardas wire does not sound any better but it may help to sell speakers to those who are concerned about wire and are not convinced that ordinary wire is just as good. The increase in cost is negligible compared to the drivers, enclosures and equalizer." - Roger Russell
As far as aluminum vs copper, yeah I would have some objections to aluminum wire, nothing to do with electron speed (BAH!), but resistance and ultimately heat. That said, your coated wires are fine, and should be nice to wire (you can visually see them as different, so maintaining polarity/phase is much easier).