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#1 ·
Starting with the RX-A710 which I will be receiving tomorrow and testing over Labor Day weekend.



AVENTAGE AV Receivers: Designed to Deliver the Highest Levels of Audio Performance


The AVENTAGE line of high-performance AV receivers is based on the audio design concept of providing a massive, full-bodied sound for movie sound effects and the accurate reproduction of music sources. By expertly harmonizing traditional and advanced technologies, every factor that affects sound quality, from materials and parts to construction, layout, vibration damping (unique A.R.T. Wedge foot) and fine-tuning the sound, is handled with no other thought than to achieve the best possible audio quality. As a result, every AVENTAGE model has the ability to reproduce the most subtle details of high-definition sound, so that listeners can enjoy a truly high-class sound studio experience at home.

A.R.T. Wedge Helps to Ensure that Vibrations Do Not Affect Sound Quality


The A.R.T. (Anti-Resonance Technology) Wedge is a fifth foot in the center of the unit. It dampens vibrations from the power transformer, power transistors and heat sinks, as well as vibrations that might be caused by the sound from the speakers. This elimination or reduction of vibration provides an audible increase in sound quality throughout the AVENTAGE Series.

Aluminum Front Panel Offers Visual and Aural Benefits


All of the AVENTAGE components feature the same sleek, clean design, with an elegant aluminum front panel and silky touch volume/selector knobs. The aluminum front panel is used to effectively shield sensitive circuitry from external noise and electronic energy generated by dimmer switches, fluorescent lighting, video monitors and so on. This ensures optimum sonic performance in the widest range of installation environments.

HDMI with 3D and Audio Return Channel


3D means the receiver can handle 3D signal data. The Audio Return Channel function enables data to be sent and received via the same HDMI cable, so you can hear the sound from the TV via a single HDMI cable, with no need for an extra optical cable.

Analog and HDMI Video Upscaling to Full HD 1080p


This AV Receiver will upscale video signals up to 1080p. HDTVs capable of 720p, 1080i or 1080p resolution can provide more detailed picture.

High Quality Video Processing with Edge Adaptive Deinterlacing


In ordinary deinterlacing, pixels in areas of movement are interpolated by upper and lower ranges. This causes jaggies in diagonal lines. Edge adaptive deinterlacing detects the direction of the line and interpolates the pixels optimally.

Network Functions


This AV receiver provides a variety of network functions that enable you to access more sources and also enhance operation. You can connect the receiver to a PC to enjoy Internet Radio, Pandora, Rhapsody, Sirius XM and Napster, and use a Web Browser Control. The AV Controller app lets you control various functions from your iPhone or iPad, etc.

AV Controller App for Easy, Convenient Operation


The AVENTAGE AV Receivers let you use the Yamaha AV Controller app, a free download from the iTunes App Store to control power on/off and volume, select input and DSP modes and operate other functions from an iPhone, iPad and other devices. An Android app will be available in the coming months.

USB Digital Connection for iPod and iPhone on the Front Panel


A USB port on the front panel allows convenient connection of an iPod/iPhone, which also charges when connected. Because the digital signal from the iPod/iPhone is transmitted directly to the AV receiver, there is no signal loss or interference, so you enjoy the best possible sound quality. In addition, you can use the receiver's remote control unit to operate the iPod/iPhone music playback functions.

YPAO Automatically Sets the Best Sound for Any Room


Yamaha's YPAO system uses a small microphone and sophisticated equalization to automatically set the best sound for any room, no matter where the speakers are. First it checks the speaker connections and phase of each speaker. Then it sends out tones which are captured by the microphone to analyze the room acoustics and sets a variety of parameters, such as the speaker size, the distance of the speakers and even the sound pressure level, etc. Until it achieves the best sound conditions for your room and you don't have to do anything!

SCENE for One-Touch Start


The Four SCENE buttons make operating the receiver easier than ever. They are initially set to default settings for BD/DVD Viewing, CD Disc Listening, TV Viewing and Radio Listening. Pressing a SCENE button will automatically launch a number of operations that initiate play of the source controlled by that button. Other SCENE settings are also available, such as iPod Listening, SiriusXM Listening [model dependent], TV Sports Viewing and Action Game Playing. Browsing and selecting the settings is quickly accomplished by changing Input via the front panel and watching the on-screen display. The settings can be selected for one-time use, or they can replace the original default settings. The SCENE names can be changed also.

HDMI CEC for Easy Operation


Another benefit of HDMI is the availability of CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) functionality. When the unit is connected to a CEC compatible TV, it will turn on and off together with the TV, and you can use the TV remote to control the volume. CEC also provides advanced functionality with other components. For example, you can use the receiver's remote unit to control player functions like Skip and Stop.


*All connected devices must be HDMI CEC compatible. Some CEC compatible TVs/players may not work.

Input Selection in HDMI Standby Through Mode


When the AV receiver is in HDMI Standby Through mode, the input source (Blu-ray Disc player, game console, etc.) for viewing on the monitor can be changed via the remote control. There's no need to turn on the AV receiver in order to switch sources.

HDMI Front Panel Input


In addition to the large number of HDMI inputs on the rear panel, there is also one on the front panel. This gives you a convenient way to quickly plug in a digital camera or camcorder for highest quality pictures.

Advanced On-Screen GUI


Yamaha's latest Graphical User Interface (GUI) has a high resolution display with clear, easy-to-use menus and also includes a selectable Status Bar that shows input source, volume level, DSP mode and audio format. The GUI provides a choice of six languages: English, French, German, Japanese, Russian and Spanish, and can be displayed over both normal and 3D pictures.

Intelligent Amp Assign


Intelligent Amp Assign automatically assigns amplifier channels to certain speakers, depending on what functions are selected. For example, in a 7.1-channel system, when Zone 2 is off, all 7.1 channels will be used in the Main Zone. However, when Zone 2 is on, power to the two Surround Back channels will be directed to the two speakers in Zone 2, and the Main Zone will receive 5.1 channels of power. Similarly, when CINEMA DSP 3D is on, the two Front Presence speakers will be powered and not the two Surround Back speakers. When CINEMA DSP 3D is off, this situation is reversed. Thanks to Intelligent Amp Assign, there's no need to switch the speaker cables on the rear of the receiverone more way Yamaha makes your life a little easier.

HD Audio with CINEMA DSP 3D and Virtual Presence Speaker


CINEMA DSP 3D provides a wide, high and dense sound field. HD Audio format decoding lets you enjoy HD Audio sources. Virtual Presence Speaker delivers 3-dimensional sound without actual use of presence speakers. The actually measured sound field data contain the information of the height of the sound images. CINEMA DSP 3D mode achieves the reproduction of the accurate height of the sound images so that it creates the accurate and intensive stereoscopic sound fields in a listening room.

Compressed Music Enhancer


When music is encoded into a digitally compressed format like MP3, the frequency response suffers. Yamaha's Compressed Music Enhancer employs sophisticated digital signal processing using exclusive algorithms to restore what was lost, so the music always sounds the way it should.

Adaptive DRC (Dynamic Range Control)


Adaptive DRC automatically adjusts the dynamic range of the sound according to the volume level. This ensures that you hear clear dialogue and vocals, and all sound effects at comfortable levels. There is no need to adjust the volume level as you listen; everything from whispers to big explosions will be heard clearly and comfortably at the same volume setting. It also tones down loud TV commercials, and is ideal for low-volume, late-night listening, when you do not want to disturb others.

Versatile Zone Control


Zone 2 on/off and control on front panel

Zone sleep and system sleep

Remote input/output

Programmable +12V trigger output

Low Standby Power Consumption


Yamaha makes its receivers eco-friendly with a low standby power consumption of 0.1W (2W in HDMI Standby Through mode).

Eco-Friendly Design with Selectable Auto Power Down


Auto Power Down lets you save energy by selecting to turn off the power after 4, 8 or 12 hours.

Optional Accessories for Added Convenience


Yamaha optional docks make it easy to enjoy your favorite music from your iPod or iPhone, with or without cables. Select from of the following models:

yAired Wireless Dock System YID-W10

Universal Dock for iPod/iPhone YDS-12

Bluetooth® Wireless Audio Receiver YBA-10

Notable Audio Features


7-channel powerful surround sound

- 90W per Channel (8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz, 0.09 % THD, 2 ch driven)

- 105W per Channel (8 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.9 % THD, 2 ch driven)

HD Audio format decoding: Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio; Dolby Digital Plus and DTS-HD High Resolution Audio

Discrete amp configuration

Selected high quality parts to achieve optimum audio performance

Pure Direct for HD Audio and video enjoyment

Low jitter PLL circuitry helps optimize sound imaging

Detachable Power Cable for easier installation (also allows cable upgrade)

Assignable amplifiers for bi-amp connection

Intelligent assignable amplifiers for Surround Back - Front Presence or Zone 2

Notable Video Features


1080p-compatible HDMI: 8 inputs (1 on front) and 2 outputs

Supports Deep Color (30/36 bit), x.v.Color, 24Hz Refresh Rate and Auto Lip-Sync compensation

Multi-cadence (incl. 3-2 pull-down) detection

HDMI with 3D and Audio Return Channel

Notable Advanced Features


DLNA 1.5 certified SIRIUS Satellite Radio ready

Audio input assign capability for HDMI and component video input

iPod/iPhone compatibility with optional YDS-12 Universal Dock

Wireless connection for iPod/iPhone with optional YID-W10

Bluetooth (A2DP) compatibility with optional Yamaha Bluetooth® Wireless Audio Receiver YBA-10

iPod/iPhone song titles displayed in English and Western European languages on the front panel and on-screen display

Dialogue Lift

Audio Delay for adjusting Lip-Sync (0-250ms)

Preset remote unit

Background video feature (for tuner, Net, USB and SIRIUS Satellite Radio)

Notable Surround Realism Features


Virtual Presence Speaker function for CINEMA DSP 3D surround without Front Presence Speakers

Adaptive DSP Level

SILENT CINEMA and Virtual CINEMA DSP


Note: The basic format of this thread was taken from the RX-V671 thread, but I felt like the AVENTAGE features were not being discussed there and wanted to split them out. I am hoping owners of this line of receivers will submit their $0.02 and find the information they are looking for easier. I know that personally I had a difficult time finding good reviews on this line of AVRs.
 
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1
#2,505 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainVideoJW  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2490#post_23361582


Use a digital to analog adapter from your Apple TV's optical out. Works for me.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003O509PY/
Captain, is there a big difference in sound quality when you use this converter compared to the optical connection?
 
#2,506 ·
Not much
 
#2,507 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pappaduke  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2490#post_23361715


Ross are you saying that if I use a USB for music it can be played in my third zone?

Yup, if you connect a USB stick with MP3s in the front USB jack you can play the music on it in zone 2 or 3. However, the USB and network sources all share the same internal device, so you can listen to different MP3s or different USB/network sources at the same time in different zones.
 
#2,509 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2460#post_23336869


You cannot have rear presence speakers without front presence speakers. This is true regardless of whether or not you use external amplification.


You have four options: 1) Move the rear presence speakers to the front and use them as front presence speakers, described as "9.2 channel system (using surround back speakers)" in the manual, 2) add front presence speakers so you have both front and rear presence speakers, "9.2 + 2 channel system (using both surround back and rear presence speakers)", 3) remove the rear presence speakers so you don't have any presence speakers, "7.1 channel system (using surround back speakers)", or 4) move the rear surround speakers to the front and use them as front presence speakers, "7.1 channel system (using front presence speakers)".


None of these options require that you use an external amplifer or change the power amp assign setting from its default. YPAO will detect which of these speaker configurations you've chosen and configure the speaker settings appropriately. If you go with option 2) then the surround back and rear presence speakers won't be used simultaneously, the receiver will dynamcially choose which set of speakers to use depending on your choice of DSP mode.

I seem to keep getting bad advice. The above advice for option 2 is DEAD wrong.


Over the weekend I installed a pair of front presence speakers. I now have a 11.1 speakers setup (9.1 + 2). I ran YPAO and still no sound from the rear presence speakers


.......and here's why......







ALL 11 speaker systems require a separate amplifier. I guess I should have RTFM.


Page 16 in the manual states that with a 9.2 + 2 setup, the rear presence speakers and the rear surround speakers will not produce sound at the same time. Do not interpret this as the amplifier will switch back and forth. This must mean the processor will switch back and forth.




Now I need to buy an inexpensive amplifier to run either the rear or front presence speakers. I can't imagine much sound comes from these.

Any advice on a dependable, cheap amp? I have never run separates before, so I have no idea what I'll need to spend.

Do separate amps turn off and on based on signal? If so, I'd like to keep the amp behind my rack. I need to have automatic power up or remote control power up with my setup.
 
#2,510 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyJonesBSME  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2490#post_23367609


I seem to keep getting bad advice. The above advice for option 2 is DEAD wrong.

No, the advice I gave is correct.
Quote:
ALL 11 speaker systems require a separate amplifier. I guess I should have RTFM.

The image from the manual you pasted is not complete listing of the possible speaker configurations, it only gives alternative "advanced" speaker configurations. The "9.2 + 2 channel system (using both surround back and rear presence speakers)" speaker configuration I mentioned is one of the basic speaker configurations given earlier in the manual. It uses 11 speakers and doesn't require external amplifcation.
Quote:
Page 16 in the manual states that with a 9.2 + 2 setup, the rear presence speakers and the rear surround speakers will not produce sound at the same time. Do not interpret this as the amplifier will switch back and forth. This must mean the processor will switch back and forth.

The manual is clear in saying that receiver will switch between the speakers in use depending on the DSP mode: "The unit automatically changes the speakers to be used, depending on the selected sound program." I have no idea what you mean by the "processor will switch back and forth", but internally two different things gets switched. The first is what gets sent to the surround back amplifers, either the surround back channels or the DSP generated rear presence channels. The second whether the output of the surround back amplifiers gets connected to surround back speaker terminals or the "EXTRA SP2" speaker terminals.


Activating the one of the many "Cinema DSP" modes, as indicated by the this icon appearing on the front panel display, should result in an audible click coming from the receiver itself and sound from your rear presense speakers. If not the the check the following:


Make sure the Power Amp Assign setting ([On Screen] -> Setup -> Speaker -> Manual -> Power Amp Assign) is set to "Basic". This tells the receiver that you're using no external amplification. If it's set to something else you need to change it to "Basic" and re-run YPAO.


If the Power Amp Assign setting was correctly set to "Basic" then check whether or not YPAO detected the rear presence speakers: [On Screen] -> Setup -> Speaker -> Manual -> Rear Presence. If this is set to "None" instead of "Use" then you can fix it by changing the setting manually, but this would likely indicate that your speakers aren't properly attached to your receiver. Check the connections at the back and at the speakers. If you can't find a problem then test your speaker cables by temporarily disconnecting your front speakers from the receiver and connecting the rear presence speakers to the front speaker terminals. Use a stereo source like the FM tuner and Pure Direct mode so the other speakers don't get used.


Another thing to check is that I'm not sure how the receiver will prioritizes using rear presence speakers instead of the surround back speakers when there's actual surround back channels in the source material. You might want to try using a 5.1 or stereo source to see if it makes any difference. The Extended Surround setting ([Option] -> EXTD Surround), which allows for the synthesis of surround back channels from 5.1 sources, may also have an effect.
 
#2,511 ·
This manual is a little confusing with this. When it mentions basic speaker configuration, I did not take this as a setting on the receiver. I don't remember seeing basic as a choice.



I'll give your suggestions a try and dig into it tonight.


I did run YPAO, but I don't think I had it set to basic, so no sound came from the rear presence speakers.


Thanks for hanging in there with me.
 
#2,514 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyJonesBSME  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2490#post_23367609


I seem to keep getting bad advice. The above advice for option 2 is DEAD wrong.


Over the weekend I installed a pair of front presence speakers. I now have a 11.1 speakers setup (9.1 + 2). I ran YPAO and still no sound from the rear presence speakers


.......and here's why......







ALL 11 speaker systems require a separate amplifier. I guess I should have RTFM.


Page 16 in the manual states that with a 9.2 + 2 setup, the rear presence speakers and the rear surround speakers will not produce sound at the same time. Do not interpret this as the amplifier will switch back and forth. This must mean the processor will switch back and forth.




Now I need to buy an inexpensive amplifier to run either the rear or front presence speakers. I can't imagine much sound comes from these.

Any advice on a dependable, cheap amp? I have never run separates before, so I have no idea what I'll need to spend.

Do separate amps turn off and on based on signal? If so, I'd like to keep the amp behind my rack. I need to have automatic power up or remote control power up with my setup.

I would suggest going to http://www.classicaudioparts.com and looking at a "B" stock ATI AT 2002 amp, they are guaranteed for 7 years and are great amps, I use there 2007 and 2004 models for 11 channels of external amplification with my RX-A3010 and could not be happier.
 
#2,515 ·
OK, Darn Yamaha, after posting I noticed a new RX-A3030 startup thread and lo and behold they are now going to offer SEPERATES!!! count me in as one who will jump on the CX-A5000. This unit is what I was trying to accomplish using the RX-A3010 with external amps. Heck since I allready have the amps count me in as one who will jump on the CX-A5000 as soon as it hits the shelves. I already have sent what information is available to the AV store I use and now I have him stooked on it and the 11 channel amp too. If yamaha can replicate how good there pre amps were in the past they will do extremely well.
 
#2,516 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty8451  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2490#post_23372119


OK, Darn Yamaha, after posting I noticed a new RX-A3030 startup thread and lo and behold they are now going to offer SEPERATES!!! count me in as one who will jump on the CX-A5000. This unit is what I was trying to accomplish using the RX-A3010 with external amps. Heck since I allready have the amps count me in as one who will jump on the CX-A5000 as soon as it hits the shelves. I already have sent what information is available to the AV store I use and now I have him stooked on it and the 11 channel amp too. If yamaha can replicate how good there pre amps were in the past they will do extremely well.

Yeah, I noticed the release of the new line after the fact also! I'm still happy with the deal I got on an A820, but had I known, I would have been sorely tempted to wait on an A1020 at a heavily discounted price. C'est la vie!


Go ahead folks -- tell me I should have waited.



Rich
 
#2,517 ·
Hello. I have the European RX-A1010 and while I have enjoyed it for a while I've got some questions that I hope you'll be able to answer me here



First, my front speakers are JBL L 8000 (an anniversary edition of the L 80's). I like them very much and they look and sound great! Specs here.


As you can see they are 4 ohm, but the AVR allows 4ohm front speakers when set to 6ohm, as it says on the back here. So no worries there. I have them hooked up with Bi-amping, and I assume that the extra set of speaker terminals for Bi-amping also supports 4ohm, right? I mean it would be stupid if they didn't.

However I just stumbled upon this thread where the guy with the picture says he has to change a jumper inside his JBL L7 speaker to allow for Bi-amping. That's not something I should do with my L 8000s right? Looking at the spec sheet I posted it looks like the woofer is completely seperated from the midrange + tweeters. Isn't that right?



Anyway, the main reason for me writing here is because I finally found a seller with the JBL L Center speaker for a reasonable price. Now I find out that the center speaker isn't 6ohm
It's 4 accoring to hifi-wiki.de and 5ohm according to the official spec sheet found here . So will that cause a huge problem for me if I attempt to hook this up to my AVR? Will it work with absolutely no problems or will my dream of finally having a perfectly matching center speaker die right here?



I think the highest I have ever had the volume when using 5.1 speakers were about -15 to -10db. But that was a movie with pretty low volume. Normally it's about -25db when playing at a fairly loud volume.


I should mention that I used to have my JBL 8000 speakers bi-wired to a Sony STR-DG820 which is 8ohms and it newer shut itself off even when I played at high volume. There could have been clipping in the audio though, as it did sound much better when I switched to the Yamaha RX-A1010.


I'm also thinking about getting some smaller JBL surround speakers (same seller). Those are 8ohm, so they won't damage anything as far as I can understand. But will the added impedance make the listening field uneven? Or will it match the front speakers fine once calibrated?


Any help regarding these questions would be highly appreciated.
 
#2,518 ·
You shouldn't try to bi-amp speakers that weren't designed to be bi-amped. Bi-amp capable speakers have two sets of speaker terminals on each speaker cabinent. Usually a metal bar of some sort will connect the two sets of speaker terminals, and this metal bar needs to be removed when bi-amping. It's also possible a switch is used to disconnect the two sets of speaker terminals from each other. Make sure that your speakers have two sets of speaker terminals, one for the low range and one for the high range, and ensure they're not connected together externally or internally.


Using a 4 or 5 ohm center speaker shoud be OK. Using 8 ohm speakers surround should be ok as well, but they may limit how loud you can go before audible distortion becomes a problem.
 
#2,519 ·
Hi. The JBL L 8000s does have two sets of terminals, and I have of course removed the metal plates that connected those
That picture I linked to just got me worried that you would need to switch a jumper inside to make the bi-amping work. But I guess I don't have to, according to the speaker schematics the two sets of speaker terminals are already separated. Otherwise it would have shorted the speaker terminals on the AVR, and that couldn't have sounded good



Just me being overly cautious and getting too little sleep



I've found several people saying that using 4ohm speakers on a 6ohm AVR is a bad idea, it could lead to the AVR getting much hotter than it should, clipping in audio or the AVR shutting itself off, if it's being pushed too far
 
#2,520 ·
Yes, you're more likely have the receiver shutdown (or worse if the protection circuitry fails for any reason). Still I don't think having one speaker 4 or 5 ohms instead of 6 is going to make it significantly more likely. I would be more concerned if you were going to hook up five additional 4 ohm speakers.
 
#2,521 ·
Last night I reset my 3010 to Basic and ran YPAO. All 11.1 of my speakers were recognized.


Ross was right..........I was wrong.

Thanks Ross.



While watching a movie last night, I noticed that one pair of the rear speakers were greyed out. I know the manual says the receiver will decide when to use these, but I thought it would be dynamically chosen.

Does anyone know how these get chosen?
 
#2,522 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2490#post_23374990


Yes, you're more likely have the receiver shutdown (or worse if the protection circuitry fails for any reason). Still I don't think having one speaker 4 or 5 ohms instead of 6 is going to make it significantly more likely. I would be more concerned if you were going to hook up five additional 4 ohm speakers.

Thank you, unless someone here strongly disagrees with you I'm going to buy the speaker. Should there be any problems I can probably sell it for the same price again.


Do you have any thoughts on the Bi-amping terminals supporting 4ohms like the front-terminals? I mean, the back of the AVR says it supports 4ohm front speakers when set to 6ohm, and the AVR support Bi-amping. So if the bi-amping (woofer) terminals were 6ohms only that would be the most retarded hardware design ever.


In the manual it says this under specs:
Quote:
❑ Audio Section

• Rated Output Power

(20 Hz to 20 kHz, 0.06% THD, 8Ω)

Front L/R .............................................................110 W+110 W

Center ............................................................................. 110 W

Surround L/R.......................................................110 W+110 W

Surround Back L/R .............................................110 W+110 W

(1 kHz, 0.9% THD, 8Ω)

Front L/R .......................................... 135 W/ch (120 W+120 W)

Center ...........................................................135 W/ch (120 W)

Surround L/R.................................... 135 W/ch (120 W+120 W)

Surround Back L/R .......................... 135 W/ch (120 W+120 W)

(1 kHz, 0.9% THD, 4Ω) [U.K. and Europe models]

Front L/R .................................................................... 170 W/ch

• Maximum Effective Output Power (JEITA, 1 kHz, 10% THD, 8 Ω)

[China, Korea, Asia and General models]

Front L/R .................................................................... 165 W/ch

Center ........................................................................ 165 W/ch

Surround L/R.............................................................. 165 W/ch

Surround Back L/R .................................................... 165 W/ch

• Dynamic Power (IHF)

Front L/R (8/6/4/2 Ω) .................................. 135/165/210/280 W

• Damping Factor

Front L/R, 1 kHz, 8 Ω ............................................. 150 or more

As you can see the Front L/R is clearly marked as 4ohms at the bottom of the "Rated output power" section. However the "ZONE 2/F.PRESENCE/BI-AMP" terminals I use for the woofers are not listed in the specs. So... 4ohms or 6ohms?


It also says

"• Dynamic Power (IHF) Front L/R (8/6/4/2 Ω)..." So does that mean the front speakers could be as low as 2ohms even? Why else mention it in the manual? This is truly very confusing
 
#2,523 ·
The rated power spefications are not meant as recommendations, and as ones for models sold outisde the US aren't subject to the FTC's Amplifier Rule don't necessarily reflect realistic operating conditions. The dynamic power numbers in particular are only for what the reciever can supply in short fraction of a second bursts. As the actual impedance of a speaker varies according to the frequency of the sound it's playing, the actual impedance of a nominal 4 ohm speaker can vary from 2 to 8 ohms depending on the frequency of that burst. The nominal impedance given in speaker specifications is an average over time whem playing most music.


All of the speaker terminals in your receiver are connected to identical amplifiers all powered from the same power supply. There's no actual difference between them electrically. The 4 ohm front and 6 ohm everything else minimuim requirement reflects what the designers think the receiver can drive safely without having the protection circuitry kick in at expected listening levels. The more you deviate under these recommendations the more risk you're taking.
 
#2,524 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2520#post_23376480


The rated power spefications are not meant as recommendations, and as ones for models sold outisde the US aren't subject to the FTC's Amplifier Rule don't necessarily reflect realistic operating conditions. The dynamic power numbers in particular are only for what the reciever can supply in short fraction of a second bursts. As the actual impedance of a speaker varies according to the frequency of the sound it's playing, the actual impedance of a nominal 4 ohm speaker can vary from 2 to 8 ohms depending on the frequency of that burst. The nominal impedance given in speaker specifications is an average over time whem playing most music.

Thank you. That got a bit technical, but I think I understood the essence of it.
Quote:
All of the speaker terminals in your receiver are connected to identical amplifiers all powered from the same power supply. There's no actual difference between them electrically. The 4 ohm front and 6 ohm everything else minimuim requirement reflects what the designers think the receiver can drive safely without having the protection circuitry kick in at expected listening levels. The more you deviate under these recommendations the more risk you're taking.

Okay it makes sense that they are all identical. So 4ohm for my woofers too. That's good. What's not so good is that I already have four of the seven amps driving 4ohm speakers (two for each speaker because of bi-amping). So if I add the L Center too that would be 5/7 amps driving speakers at 4ohm, and the last two running either 6 or 8ohm surround speakers (8ohm if I buy the other pair).


Wouldn't that end up being exactly what you're advising me not to do?
 
#2,525 ·
I can't quantify the risk you'd be taking except to say that you'd be operating the receiver out of spec, as you already knew. In all likelihood you'll have no problems at with your proposed set up. There are people who use all 4 ohms speakers and leave the receiver at its default 8 ohm setting and have often recommended that others here do so as well. They're running their receivers way more out spec then you're proposing and apparently they haven't had any problems. So all I can say is that you're taking more of a risk, but you should be OK.
 
#2,527 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Konsolkongen  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2520#post_23377183


Okay thank you very much
Maybe you should consider not bi amping. Some believe there really isn't much of a difference with bi amping an AVR as opposed to using truly separate power amps. Now if you are hearing a difference then keep it as it is, but if not, maybe not bi amping will lessen the load. I'm no expert, but just a thought.
 
#2,528 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Konsolkongen  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2520#post_23376781


Thank you. That got a bit technical, but I think I understood the essence of it.

Okay it makes sense that they are all identical. So 4ohm for my woofers too. That's good. What's not so good is that I already have four of the seven amps driving 4ohm speakers (two for each speaker because of bi-amping). So if I add the L Center too that would be 5/7 amps driving speakers at 4ohm, and the last two running either 6 or 8ohm surround speakers (8ohm if I buy the other pair).


Wouldn't that end up being exactly what you're advising me not to do?
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#2,529 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pappaduke  /t/1357468/the-official-yamaha-aventage-rx-a710-810-1010-2010-3010-thread/2520#post_23377416


Maybe you should consider not bi amping. Some believe there really isn't much of a difference with bi amping an AVR as opposed to using truly separate power amps. Now if you are hearing a difference then keep it as it is, but if not, maybe not bi amping will lessen the load. I'm no expert, but just a thought.

I was considering this too. But not bi-amping would result in less power to the speakers, and if I remember correctly it's supposed to minimize crosstalk where the sound going to tweeter and middle tone can sometimes get the woofer moving, or somthing like that


To be honest I have never tried not bi-amping using the Yamaha. But perhaps I'll try it later today.


EDIT: Perhaps I'm dead wrong. I thought that bi-amping through and AVR would filter out the unneeded parts of the audio automatically, so to eliminate crosstalk and practically doubling the power sent to the speaker.

I was aware that there was something called passive and active bi-amping and that the AVRs only had passive.


I just did some searching on the matter and this came up:
Quote:
An active crossover takes the full-range output from your preamp (AVR) and splits the signal into high (HF) and low (LF) parts before it gets to the power amps that drive your speakers. The power amps thus only "see" a limited frequency band so all their power is focused in that band. With a good crossover you can fine-tune the crossover frequency, slope, and phase to really dial-in your speakers. This eliminates (or bypasses) the passive crossover built into the speakers, something that is not always optimal for every room and that does have some loss.


The passive biamping capability of the AVRs under discussion sends a full-range signal to each amp and you use a separate amp for HF and LF. This does not really unload the amp except that the speaker's built-in crossover (which must remain in place in this set-up) rejects the out-of-band power so the amp need not deliver load power outside the crossover point. However, ost all amps are voltage devices, so the voltage swing is still being used even if the out-of-band output current is low. The result is very little (approaching nil, IMO) practical benefit with "passive" bi-amping. The out-of-band signals are still taking away dynamic (voltage) range from the amplifiers, the AVR's power supply must still deal with the same load, and the overall power into the speaker is about the same (twice the power over half the bandwidth, net no gain).
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1348770/bi-amping-no-flame-no-theory-just-real-world-ear-based-experience#post_20721254


So if the Yamaha works the same way, it basically sends the same signal twice, but the internal filter of the speakers cuts the signal in half anyway, roughly speaking. So there's a good chance I've just been wasting power all this time...? And that disabling bi-amping would give very much the same sound and power? :O
 
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