The "official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A710/810/1010/2010/3010 thread - Page 98 - AVS Forum
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post #2911 of 2939 Old 07-29-2014, 01:11 PM
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I no longer need help with this issue. Turns out that my comcast modem/router had some sort of issue that caused me to lose my Ethernet connection (wifi was fine). I reset it several times with no change. Called comcast and was asked to reset it and magically it is now working. I have yet another reason to dislike comcast. X1 ongoing issues and now this. I just wasted two hours of my day. Now to get those ribs on the grill, because I simply could I not grill without music and knowing that I had an AV issue.
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post #2912 of 2939 Old 08-02-2014, 03:14 AM
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issues with RX A-810 V-AUX

Hi All

I own RX A-810 and am not able to use V-AUX HDMI cable for connecting my laptop or STB. When I connect a laptop, the screensaver is visible on the screen. In the case of STB, only the video output is visible on TV, but the audio is not audible through AVR speakers. Everything is working fine with the HDMI in points at the back. Any pointers on what might be wrong are appreciated.

Thanks
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post #2913 of 2939 Old 08-06-2014, 11:58 AM
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I have the 3010 and have recently completed the YAPO still working out the bugs to get my correct sound. It is quite clear and powerful.

I do agree that all of the buttons on the remote are small, too many and confusing. Also that the setup is a bit tricky to remember where it is all located.

One thing that I noticed is that YAPO must have an empty room to work correctly. I know because I was lazy the first time and did not empty my room.
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post #2914 of 2939 Old 08-06-2014, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishingsteve View Post
One thing that I noticed is that YAPO must have an empty room to work correctly.
Interesting proposition. I've had four Yamaha receivers with YPAO (current one is an A2010), and I don't recall ever reading that in any of their owner's manuals. I find it hard to believe that enthusiasts who frequently run YPAO (or Audyssey) would ever bother using it, if they were expected to always completely empty the room beforehand.

Also... isn't it the whole point of "room correction" software to compensate for the size, shape and contents of the room?



Could you possibly elaborate?....
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post #2915 of 2939 Old 08-07-2014, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishingsteve View Post
I have the 3010 and have recently completed the YAPO still working out the bugs to get my correct sound. It is quite clear and powerful.

I do agree that all of the buttons on the remote are small, too many and confusing. Also that the setup is a bit tricky to remember where it is all located.

One thing that I noticed is that YAPO must have an empty room to work correctly. I know because I was lazy the first time and did not empty my room.
I've removed objects and miscellaneous furniture hoping for an improvement in the past. Anything that won't be in the room during playback needs to be removed IMO. Taking the coffee table out permanently was a good step.
For me I seemed to get the best results when the room, and the rest of the house, was dead quite. No dishwasher, dryer, kids, etc. running in the next room.
The nearly sound proof room took care of this little pet peave.
Now I wish I could fill the seats during the setup, our room sounds its best with people seated in the room.


YPAO needs to be watched and rerun when the numbers displayed are funky.
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post #2916 of 2939 Old 08-07-2014, 05:06 AM
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I also found it hard to believe and , as you, thought that the whole idea was to correct for the room, contents, setup etc?????? However http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio...a3010_black_u/ go to Support then look at the last two downloadable manuals easy set up guide pg. 6 in the upper rectangle 6th bullet point. It is also stated again in the last download pg 49. ?????

The other thing that i found odd was that it stated to set volume on woofer at 1/2 but also said to set crossover to max. Just thought you would set it somewhat close to desired listening as a starting point.

When i ran it the 1st time with the furniture in the room, 10 theater seats it came up with all sorts of crazy distances, levels were set from 0 to -10. The worst being my subs at -10 and gave error code W-3 found on pg 55 of the last download.

It sounded horrible. I have 2- HSU Research VTF3-MK4's subs AWESOME and highly recommend them if you are a base head. 2- KLIPSCH RB8-1 surround rears, 2- RS5211 surrounds, RC52 11 center and Jamo towers as the fronts cant remember model

Removed the seats started over and one hell of a difference. Still customizing the settings but much improved. No errors base set to -2, which i changed of course. Distances very close, i measured. respectable levels.

I am running 7.2 presently and am looking to upgrade to the full 11.2 with both front and rear presence. More Klipsch RS5211's.
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post #2917 of 2939 Old 08-07-2014, 08:04 AM
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I see nothing in the manual (yes I went to page 46...) about removing furniture from the room. Rather, the implication seems to be to keep the room quiet but otherwise exactly as one would have the room when listening to music.

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post #2918 of 2939 Old 08-07-2014, 09:53 AM
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^ ^ Exactly.

On page 47 in the A2010's manual (and on page 6 in its Easy Setup Guide), it states:

"YPAO measurement is not performed correctly when any obstacles are in the room."

"During the measuring process (about three minutes), keep stuff in the corners or remove it from the room."


I think it's fairly obvious that by "obstacles" and "stuff", Yamaha is referring to objects in the room (lamps, art objects sitting on tables/stands...) that -- because of their size and position -- could possibly obstruct the soundpath between the speakers and the YPAO microphone. Regarding removing furniture... even if I were willing to do so, it seems fairly counter-intuitive to me to suppose that measurements made in an empty room would still apply, once the room's furnishings were replaced.

I appreciate your response, though. Perhaps, in cases where the room is a completely dedicated theater-room, and the room's only furniture is its theater-seating, it does work out to be better. The vast majority of us, however, whose home "theaters" are also our fully-furnished living rooms, do not enjoy such luxury.

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The other thing that i found odd was that it stated to set volume on woofer at 1/2 but also said to set crossover to max. Just thought you would set it somewhat close to desired listening as a starting point.
Not odd at all. Setting the crossover to max on the subwoofer allows you to set it in your AVR to whatever value works for your setup... the point being that your AVR should be the only instrument which controls any of your speakers' crossover settings.
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post #2919 of 2939 Old 08-23-2014, 12:01 PM
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YPAO, SPL PEQ and manual setup

I have a Yamaha RX-A2010 (the rest of my equipment is in my signature and links below). I finally got an SPL meter and set my 7.1 system up this morning. I've never used all of the available YPAO tools before so I wanted to go through what I did and see if any of you who have also done a manual YPAO set up think I did it OK. Here's what I did:

  1. Using the YPAO mike, I ran YPAO in automatic mode
  2. Once completed, I adjusted the speaker sizes (all to small) and some of the crossovers based on the capabilities of the specific speakers. For instance, I changed the front speakers to 60 because they are quite capable of going that low -- or lower. The rear-back speakers were changed to 90 because they are less capable.
  3. I then turned my 2010 volume to '0' and sent test tones to each individual speaker. Using the SPL, I adjusted YPAO settings up or down so that each speaker was putting out 75db. The sub was set 2db lower (73) as per the SVS Sound team.
  4. (From here on, I've never used these steps so I'm most interested in feedback about steps 4 and 5.) I then went into the Parametric Equalizer (PEQ) section of YPAO and changed the setting to manual, copying the FLAT settings obtained during the YPAO auto-setup run into the manual PEQ memory.
  5. Then I went into each speaker, looked at the speaker's response line and using YPAO's PEQ tools, I flattened each line out.
It sounds really good but I'm asking if this is the proper YPAO manual set up procedure?



Thanks in advance!

Links: My System Diagram / System Pix
Yamaha RX-A2010, Samsung UN55B8000, AppleTV, Roku3, Yamaha CDC-685, Oppo BDP-93
Klipsch: (2) RF-83's, (1) RC-64, (2) RVX-54's, (2) RSX-5's
SVS: (1) SB13-Ultra
See links above for additional system details.

Last edited by lflorack; 08-23-2014 at 12:21 PM.
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post #2920 of 2939 Old 08-23-2014, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post
I have a Yamaha RX-A2010 (the rest of my equipment is in my signature and links below). I finally got an SPL meter and set my 7.1 system up this morning. I've never used all of the available YPAO tools before so I wanted to go through what I did and see if any of you who have also done a manual YPAO set up think I did it OK. Here's what I did:

  1. Using the YPAO mike, I ran YPAO in automatic mode
  2. Once completed, I adjusted the speaker sizes (all to small) and some of the crossovers based on the capabilities of the specific speakers. For instance, I changed the front speakers to 60 because they are quite capable of going that low -- or lower. The rear-back speakers were changed to 90 because they are less capable.
  3. I then turned my 2010 volume to '0' and sent test tones to each individual speaker. Using the SPL, I adjusted YPAO settings up or down so that each speaker was putting out 75db. The sub was set 2db lower (73) as per the SVS Sound team.
  4. (From here on, I've never used these steps so I'm most interested in feedback about steps 4 and 5.) I then went into the Parametric Equalizer (PEQ) section of YPAO and changed the setting to manual, copying the FLAT settings obtained during the YPAO auto-setup run into the manual PEQ memory.
  5. Then I went into each speaker, looked at the speaker's response line and using YPAO's PEQ tools, I flattened each line out.
It sounds really good but I'm asking if this is the proper YPAO manual set up procedure?



Thanks in advance!

Sorry to quote myself, but....


I think #5 is wrong. By doing that, I defeated everything that YPAO set to accommodate the room acoustics and the different speakers I'm using. I think using the manual tools are there to tweak the response curves to personal taste -- not wipe them out completely.


Will still be happy to hear other points about this.
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Links: My System Diagram / System Pix
Yamaha RX-A2010, Samsung UN55B8000, AppleTV, Roku3, Yamaha CDC-685, Oppo BDP-93
Klipsch: (2) RF-83's, (1) RC-64, (2) RVX-54's, (2) RSX-5's
SVS: (1) SB13-Ultra
See links above for additional system details.
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post #2921 of 2939 Old 08-23-2014, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post
Sorry to quote myself, but....


I think #5 is wrong. By doing that, I defeated everything that YPAO set to accommodate the room acoustics and the different speakers I'm using. I think using the manual tools are there to tweak the response curves to personal taste -- not wipe them out completely.


Will still be happy to hear other points about this.
Yep step five pretty much undid ypao.

And step three shouldn't be necessary. How far off were the speakers before step three?

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post #2922 of 2939 Old 08-23-2014, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post
I have a Yamaha RX-A2010 (the rest of my equipment is in my signature and links below). I finally got an SPL meter and set my 7.1 system up this morning. I've never used all of the available YPAO tools before so I wanted to go through what I did and see if any of you who have also done a manual YPAO set up think I did it OK. Here's what I did:

  1. Using the YPAO mike, I ran YPAO in automatic mode
  2. Once completed, I adjusted the speaker sizes (all to small) and some of the crossovers based on the capabilities of the specific speakers. For instance, I changed the front speakers to 60 because they are quite capable of going that low -- or lower. The rear-back speakers were changed to 90 because they are less capable.
  3. I then turned my 2010 volume to '0' and sent test tones to each individual speaker. Using the SPL, I adjusted YPAO settings up or down so that each speaker was putting out 75db. The sub was set 2db lower (73) as per the SVS Sound team.
  4. (From here on, I've never used these steps so I'm most interested in feedback about steps 4 and 5.) I then went into the Parametric Equalizer (PEQ) section of YPAO and changed the setting to manual, copying the FLAT settings obtained during the YPAO auto-setup run into the manual PEQ memory.
  5. Then I went into each speaker, looked at the speaker's response line and using YPAO's PEQ tools, I flattened each line out.
It sounds really good but I'm asking if this is the proper YPAO manual set up procedure?


Thanks in advance!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post
Sorry to quote myself, but....


I think <a href="http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=5" target="_blank">#5 is wrong. By doing that, I defeated everything that YPAO set to accommodate the room acoustics and the different speakers I'm using. I think using the manual tools are there to tweak the response curves to personal taste -- not wipe them out completely.


Will still be happy to hear other points about this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Yep step five pretty much undid ypao.

And step three shouldn't be necessary. How far off were the speakers before step three?

Before Step #3 , most of the speakers were too high -- putting out between 76d-78b. So it was mostly tweaking to make them equal at 75db. I've reversed the effects of step #5 now. It was/is interesting to see what YPAO did to the equalizer (PEQ) settings to even out the room acoustics and speaker differences. There is a few odd peaks and dips.


So, my (after the fact) assumption that the manual PEQ tools are there just to allow to tweaking of the response curves to personal taste, is correct?

Links: My System Diagram / System Pix
Yamaha RX-A2010, Samsung UN55B8000, AppleTV, Roku3, Yamaha CDC-685, Oppo BDP-93
Klipsch: (2) RF-83's, (1) RC-64, (2) RVX-54's, (2) RSX-5's
SVS: (1) SB13-Ultra
See links above for additional system details.
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post #2923 of 2939 Old 08-23-2014, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lflorack View Post
Before Step #3 , most of the speakers were too high -- putting out between 76d-78b. So it was mostly tweaking to make them equal at 75db. I've reversed the effects of step #5 now. It was/is interesting to see what YPAO did to the equalizer (PEQ) settings to even out the room acoustics and speaker differences. There is a few odd peaks and dips.


So, my (after the fact) assumption that the manual PEQ tools are there just to allow to tweaking of the response curves to personal taste, is correct?
Sure, or some people measure with a professional mic and a dedicated analysis software package and then dial in the PEQ manually.
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post #2924 of 2939 Old 08-24-2014, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Sure, or some people measure with a professional mic and a dedicated analysis software package and then dial in the PEQ manually.

Thanks nathan_h! Appreciate the feedback.

Links: My System Diagram / System Pix
Yamaha RX-A2010, Samsung UN55B8000, AppleTV, Roku3, Yamaha CDC-685, Oppo BDP-93
Klipsch: (2) RF-83's, (1) RC-64, (2) RVX-54's, (2) RSX-5's
SVS: (1) SB13-Ultra
See links above for additional system details.
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post #2925 of 2939 Old 08-25-2014, 08:07 AM
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Does anyone know if it is possible to overlay the GUI on the Video AUX (front panel) on the A2010 ?

Reason I ask is that I seem to be able to overlay the GUI on any other source input but using Video AUX it just blanks the screen and then displays the GUI!

Any info appreciated.
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post #2926 of 2939 Old 09-09-2014, 07:19 AM
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Streaming Access Errors with RX-A3010

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Originally Posted by John Weston View Post
I still cant seem to get my Pandora or Rhapsody to stream more than 5 minutes before it freezes and I get the access error message....any help is GREATLY appreciated as this was one of the reasons I bought my RX-A2010...and yes im using ver1.37



I have this issue with my RX-A3010 as well - started about a month ago, give or take. I also know another who is having similar problems. I've put a post onto the Yamaha HUB (Facebook-based help) but after originally being advised to upgrade the Firmware (with no effect), I've heard nothing. Have you (or has anybody else) gotten anywhere with this?


Also, I don't want to introduce a red herring, but it seems the problem is worse during "peak" hours. That is, during evening prime time hours. When I say "worse" I mean the streaming is completely unusable in the evening. During the day, the problem only sometimes occurs. Have anybody else noticed this?
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post #2927 of 2939 Old 09-27-2014, 08:31 PM
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I'm looking for help regarding the YNC/YNCA protocol sheets, specifically for my application I need to find the most recent one(s) possible. Mine are 2 years old. Additionally, I'm curious if anyone is working in integrating these receivers with control software of any kind.

My recent foray with Yamaha had me find out they supply the album art via a simple URL. The thing that really shocked me is they apparently encrypt the album art or use a proprietary image format. I send over a pure white and pure black image for album art and the resulting files just contained random garbage - but their app likes it well enough. Really?

I've written to Yamaha about this and they are cordial in their replies - they offer to forward my requests to the engineers who then ignore my requests.

Anyone have anything?
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Is the Yamaha rx-a740bl a good receiver and what speakers will go well with it?
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post #2929 of 2939 Old 10-07-2014, 12:38 PM
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YPAO help, please!

Apologies up-front, for my blatant ignorance.

Referring back to the discussions in this thread starting on August 6th... at one point I mentioned that I've owned four YPAO-equipped Yamaha AVRs (current one is an RX-A2010).

What I didn't mention, is that -- since I generally prefer "manual" adjustments over "automatic" -- I've never once tried using YPAO... until last week.

My setup is Klipsch RF-7 II fronts, RC-64 II center, SF-3 towers as surrounds, and an SVS SB12 sub. I'm extremely happy with the overall sound, but in the interest of possible "betterment" -- and since the A2010 has manual PEQ ability that includes the subwoofer -- I recently acquired a Mastech MS6700 SPL meter... which I really like:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upon graphing my measurements, I discovered some areas which seemed to need "adjustment", so I started messing around with the manual PEQ... only to discover that I can't make any sense out of the Yamaha's PEQ adjustment parameters at all. It provides the ability to adjust PEQ according to "Band/Gain", "Frequency/Gain" and "Q/Gain", but when I try them, each of those three parameters seems to do exactly the same thing to the graph of the signal... so there's obviously a huge chunk of understanding that I'm completely missing, both in regards to how to specifically go about entering those adjustments, and in understanding what the graphs are telling me.

After fiddling with it for a few hours, I gave up, and reset the graphs' curves to flat. The following day, I finally set up the YPAO mike, and performed the auto procedure, using the "flat" setting. After running it, I reset all the speakers to small, reset the crossovers to 60Hz and reset the sub's output level to "0" (YPAO set it to +4.5), but left everything else the way YPAO had set it.

Of course, after transferring the auto settings into manual so I could look at what it had done, the frequency graphs still made no sense to me.

In any case, even though I didn't initially like how it sounded, I listened to the system like that for the next two days -- just to be "fair" -- after which I decided that it sounded basically "dead", and again reset everything back to pre-YPAO.

So... since the A2010 Owner's Manual offers no explanation whatsoever about how or in what way the manual "Band/Gain", "Frequency/Gain" and "Q/Gain" PEQ adjustments work, or what they each specifically do, or what the differences between changes in each of them actually accomplish (I do understand that Q-Gain adjusts bandwidth)... can anyone please point me to a tutorial or online discussion that specifically addresses Yamaha YPAO manual PEQ adjustment, and interpretation of its graphs, in detail?

PMs regarding this would be very welcome, as well... and I truly appreciate any assistance offered!
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post #2930 of 2939 Old 10-07-2014, 06:54 PM
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post #2931 of 2939 Old 10-07-2014, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post
So... since the A2010 Owner's Manual offers no explanation whatsoever about how or in what way the manual "Band/Gain", "Frequency/Gain" and "Q/Gain" PEQ adjustments work, or what they each specifically do, or what the differences between changes in each of them actually accomplish (I do understand that Q-Gain adjusts bandwidth)... can anyone please point me to a tutorial or online discussion that specifically addresses Yamaha YPAO manual PEQ adjustment, and interpretation of its graphs, in detail?

PEQedit can connect to your receiver, read out the PEQ settings for each YPAO mode, and graph them for you.

You can make changes too, but remember that the graph is only showing you the effect of the PEQ filters, it's not showing the actual measured response in your room.
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post #2932 of 2939 Old 10-07-2014, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post

I can't make any sense out of the Yamaha's PEQ adjustment parameters at all. It provides the ability to adjust PEQ according to "Band/Gain", "Frequency/Gain" and "Q/Gain"
Page 112 of the manual it gives a brief description. I've expanded that a little.


I believe you see the same graph in each mode because the effects of all three are shown in aggregate.


"Band / Gain: You can select a center frequency from 7 preset bands and adjust the gain."

The Band type (shape), center frequency and width of each band are adjustable.


"Frequency / Gain: You can adjust the center frequency of the selected band and adjust the gain."

In the negative range, you are decreasing the amplitude of the frequency and in the positive range, you are increasing the amplitude of that frequency.


"Q / Gain: You can adjust the Q factor (bandwidth) of the selected band and adjust the gain."

The 'width' of the frequency band you are working with.
So in the example the frequency is 1 kHz. The Q adjustment ranges from .5 to 10.08. When it is near .5, it will affect only frequencies very near 1 kHz. If it is near 10, it will affect frequencies quite a ways below and above 1 kHz. In the plot you can see that with a high Q (near 10) the range is much larger and frequencies as low as 78.7 Hz and as high as 16 kHz will be affected (although only very slightly at those extremes).


I use manual PEQ especially on my subs. Sub 1 output goes to my two front subs. I have the it set to more high-pass..
Sub 2 goes to my two rear subs, and I have the PEQ set to a tighter, much less boomy sound since they're so close to my listening position. I don't want to hear things like baritone male news anchors voices in my subs.

If you really want to get obsessive, you can borrow a realtime spectrum analyzer.


And the Aventage series uses parametric eq's because there's really not room in there for a 31 band equalizer. Plus the PEQ's have advantages over multi band. With individual bands, you can adjust one band and it jacks with another due to room acoustics, etc and you're in a never ending adjustment as you watch your real time analyzer. That's a whole other ball game

This is a decent how to on PEQ

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Parametric-Equalizer

If you're still lost call Yamaha, they are pretty knowledgeable.
Yamaha Support
714-522-9105, opt 5
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post #2933 of 2939 Old 10-08-2014, 12:33 PM
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Many thanks to all three of you for the input!

I actually do understand the basics of what the three parameters encompass. But what was confusing me most was -- as CaptVideo explained:

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainVideoJW View Post
Page 112 of the manual gives a brief description. I've expanded that a little.

I believe you see the same graph in each mode because the effects of all three are shown in aggregate.
I had read that section in the manual, but it wasn't exactly "overly" detailed or informative... so my uncertainty was with exactly how to go about manipulating the three functions in manual YPAO, since the graphs apparently combine the effects.

Also... I have every intention of calling Yamaha support about this (I've had terrific experiences with them in the past)... I just thought it'd be useful if I gained a little better understanding of what's involved, before I call. The more I know up-front, the easier it'll be to formulate really good questions.

Regarding the use of PEQedit... I'm still a little fuzzy-headed from being up all night watching the lunar eclipse, so I'll look into it tonight or tomorrow. I don't have any of my AV equipment connected to the Internet (and don't really want to), but if it can work via USB or HDMI connection directly to my computer, it sounds like it could be just what I need.

I'll definitely post an update!
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post #2934 of 2939 Old 10-08-2014, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B 26354 View Post
...Regarding the use of PEQedit... I'm still a little fuzzy-headed from being up all night watching the lunar eclipse, so I'll look into it tonight or tomorrow. I don't have any of my AV equipment connected to the Internet (and don't really want to), but if it can work via USB or HDMI connection directly to my computer, it sounds like it could be just what I need.

PEQedit needs the receiver to be on your network to read its PEQ settings. But even without connecting you can play with frequency, gain, and Q for each filter and see their effect graphically. So at least it will give you a feel for what's happening (e.g. high Q makes a narrow filter, low Q makes a wide filter, etc.).
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post #2935 of 2939 Old 10-08-2014, 02:37 PM
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^ Thanks. I think I do have the necessary feel for what's (supposed to be) happening when I manipulate the three parameters. Specifically, I just don't get what the Yamaha YPAO graphs are (theoretically) telling me. I'll call Tech Support sometime in the next few days.
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post #2936 of 2939 Old 10-17-2014, 05:39 AM
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Why No 5.1

Maybe you guys can help me-I have an RX-A830 and was watching the NFL game last night on CBS. I was only getting sound from the front speakers, no surround. The 830 was showing PCM Dolby Pro-logic. I have not watched a game before on my setup, but have no problem with blu-rays, always shows DolbyDigital or DTS-MA. I checked and I have the decoder set to Dolby Pro-logic. The audio is from my Comcast DTA-HD box (this is a digital converter box for HD, not a regular, full service box), with HDMI directly to the 830.
Why wasn't it coming through in DD5.1? My only thought is that the comcast box isn't made to send through DD, only Pro-Logic.
Any ideas,
Thanks
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post #2937 of 2939 Old 10-25-2014, 11:34 AM
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I'm considering changing around my amplification/cabling.
Currently my mains are running off an amp and surrounds of the RX-A.
The separate is more (x2) capable but I'm not using the available power in this room.
Will there be a difference in sound quality from swapping cables to have the mains on the RX-A and surrounds running off the separate amp?
It's one of those nagging thoughts that won't go away...

I need a new money tree, this ones's starting to smell bad.

Last edited by brwsaw; 10-25-2014 at 02:20 PM.
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post #2938 of 2939 Old 10-29-2014, 11:11 PM
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Nope, unless you are exceeding the capabilities of one.
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post #2939 of 2939 Old Yesterday, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Nope, unless you are exceeding the capabilities of one.
Thanks, I was sure there wouldn't be but the idea stuck.
I'm definitely thinking the 3040 is for me, maybe a year from now.
Atmos, DTS-UHD and Auro all have my attention. A years a long time to wait, especially with the current pricing being so low. Ah well, it will be awesome when it happens.
Thinking a 3010/3020/3030 might come available if I keep watching, going form 7 to 9 or 11 channels would be a nice upgrade too.

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