The "Official" Onkyo TX-NR3009 Owners Thread - Page 33 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #961 of 984 Old 07-26-2016, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
Thanks for the link.. it seems it's only a network chip issue.. and says it won't affect connected devices



No, I am not electronically inclined at all...

I am definitely going to get it to the repair center... I love this receiver and even though i plan to get the new atmos rz3100 when it comes out, i'll keep this one for another room and as a spare just in case.
The 3009 would make a heck of an amp for a few of the speakers, to take some of the load off the RZ3100.
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post #962 of 984 Old 07-26-2016, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
You're prob right Climber... thanks... and now will have to spend money repairing..

I switched in my Onkyo 1020 and it's working.. so, the signal chain is fine... therefore logically the problem must be with the receiver...

BTW: My receiver have been working fine for years, but after i plugged in the new DuneHD 4k Solo player, this happened after some playing around.. could it be possible the dune shorted the hdmi board in the receiver?
Exactly what happened to my onkyo 3009 about a year ago. I believe the receiver was around 4 yrs old. I just contacted onkyo and they sent out a box to return and replaced the board for free. Been working fine since.

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post #963 of 984 Old 07-26-2016, 05:33 PM
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Exactly what happened to my onkyo 3009 about a year ago. I believe the receiver was around 4 yrs old. I just contacted onkyo and they sent out a box to return and replaced the board for free. Been working fine since.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
BTW, I love that receiver.

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post #964 of 984 Old 07-26-2016, 05:36 PM
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BTW, I love that receiver.

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I just remembered a litle more. Give your s/n to onkyo and it might be on their list of potentials having a bad hdmi board. Thus, free repair. If not, call them. They were really good about it.

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post #965 of 984 Old 07-26-2016, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by chiltonj View Post
I just remembered a litle more. Give your s/n to onkyo and it might be on their list of potentials having a bad hdmi board. Thus, free repair. If not, call them. They were really good about it.

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Thanks... will do just that
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post #966 of 984 Old 02-27-2017, 03:45 PM
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Hi everyone,

I've had my TX-NR3009 since 2012 and love it!!! As always in the AV world we tend to want more from our equipment.

I'm a complete newbie to the amplifiers though and my questions are the following:

1. Will powering my speakers through the Emotiva XPA Get3 (most likely 5 channel or hopefully 7 ) improve the sound quality dramatically or will be barely noticeable? I used to power my JBL Northridge E90 floor standing speakers with the E30 center and Studio L830 surrounds. The sound was very good. Now, I will be powering JBL Studio L820, LC2, and L810 for the space reasons that used to run off Onkyo HT-RC160 in another room. I guess the real question here is whether or not TX-NR3009 truly delivers the promised power as per the specs or there's room for growth.

2. When using the amplifier, I assume you control the volume on the amp and not the receiver anymore. When people use multiple stereo amps, do you control the volume of fronts, center, and surrounds independently on different amps? Sorry if this question sounds silly but I really have 0 experience with pre/pro and amps. Only AVR experience...


Thanks in advance,
Ilya
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post #967 of 984 Old 02-27-2017, 06:14 PM
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Hi everyone,

I've had my TX-NR3009 since 2012 and love it!!! As always in the AV world we tend to want more from our equipment.

I'm a complete newbie to the amplifiers though and my questions are the following:

1. Will powering my speakers through the Emotiva XPA Get3 (most likely 5 channel or hopefully 7 ) improve the sound quality dramatically or will be barely noticeable? I used to power my JBL Northridge E90 floor standing speakers with the E30 center and Studio L830 surrounds. The sound was very good. Now, I will be powering JBL Studio L820, LC2, and L810 for the space reasons that used to run off Onkyo HT-RC160 in another room. I guess the real question here is whether or not TX-NR3009 truly delivers the promised power as per the specs or there's room for growth.

2. When using the amplifier, I assume you control the volume on the amp and not the receiver anymore. When people use multiple stereo amps, do you control the volume of fronts, center, and surrounds independently on different amps? Sorry if this question sounds silly but I really have 0 experience with pre/pro and amps. Only AVR experience...


Thanks in advance,
Ilya
First things first. You will still use your AVR just as you always have. Volume is controlled by the AVR and the output (pre-outs) go to your amp(s).

As far as a noticeable difference, you have to ask yourself the serious questions. Do I listen to movies/music at high volumes? Do I hear any sound anomalies coming from my speakers when I push them hard?

If you listen loud, you might very well get better response from your speakers. They won't sound any different, you will just have headroom to play with for demanding content. At moderate volume levels, you won't notice any difference at all.

With a recommended amp rating of 225W for the E90s, you would be in the "sweet spot" with 200WPC. 250WPC would be about as much as you could ever need.

As far as the NR3009 delivering the rated power... yes it does, but only in stereo mode. When you add channels, you drop the power. If you are running 5.1 you will probably have around 80W - 100W per channel. Less for very demanding content like bass-fest movies.

I own the 3009 and have the XPA-3 powering my RTiA9 speakers while the AVR powers the center and surrounds. I get some seriously powerful sound from the system with the amp. It's clearer and heavier on the bass during bass intense scenes too. I have all my speakers crossed at 80 Hz, which helps with the power, and am running two 15" subs for bass material. It is truly visceral and blissful.

Your first though should be with a powerful, dedicated subwoofer. That will make your system sound better right off and you'll think you have a whole new set of speakers. After you employ a good sub, then you should look into the amp for the mains. Good luck and good listening.

Power Sound Audio S7201 Quad 18" 4000W Sealed Subwoofer - Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Epson 5030UB Projector - Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - - XBox One S - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...
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post #968 of 984 Old 02-27-2017, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
First things first. You will still use your AVR just as you always have. Volume is controlled by the AVR and the output (pre-outs) go to your amp(s).

As far as a noticeable difference, you have to ask yourself the serious questions. Do I listen to movies/music at high volumes? Do I hear any sound anomalies coming from my speakers when I push them hard?

If you listen loud, you might very well get better response from your speakers. They won't sound any different, you will just have headroom to play with for demanding content. At moderate volume levels, you won't notice any difference at all.

With a recommended amp rating of 225W for the E90s, you would be in the "sweet spot" with 200WPC. 250WPC would be about as much as you could ever need.

As far as the NR3009 delivering the rated power... yes it does, but only in stereo mode. When you add channels, you drop the power. If you are running 5.1 you will probably have around 80W - 100W per channel. Less for very demanding content like bass-fest movies.

I own the 3009 and have the XPA-3 powering my RTiA9 speakers while the AVR powers the center and surrounds. I get some seriously powerful sound from the system with the amp. It's clearer and heavier on the bass during bass intense scenes too. I have all my speakers crossed at 80 Hz, which helps with the power, and am running two 15" subs for bass material. It is truly visceral and blissful.

Your first though should be with a powerful, dedicated subwoofer. That will make your system sound better right off and you'll think you have a whole new set of speakers. After you employ a good sub, then you should look into the amp for the mains. Good luck and good listening.


Thank you for a great advice! I was thinking about a sub as well. I'm currently using the studio L8400P and started looking into SVS SB13/SB16 sub.


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post #969 of 984 Old 07-28-2017, 12:05 AM
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Just for peeps info, I made a video of this amps big brother with special regard to the hdmi board.


Hope you find it useful.

Steve
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post #970 of 984 Old 07-28-2017, 07:51 AM
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Just for peeps info, I made a video of this amps big brother with special regard to the hdmi board.

https://youtu.be/C6QfmmJzWks

Hope you find it useful.

Steve
That is an awesome video and highlights the need for cooling options for your AVR and media consoles. My media console is open in the front and I use both of these to keep everything cool and air moving.



https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-M...+laptop+cooler




https://www.coolerguys.com/products/...ual-120mm-kits

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Power Sound Audio S7201 Quad 18" 4000W Sealed Subwoofer - Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Epson 5030UB Projector - Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - - XBox One S - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...

Last edited by climber07; 07-28-2017 at 07:58 AM.
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post #971 of 984 Old 07-28-2017, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
That is an awesome video and highlights the need for cooling options for your AVR and media consoles. My media console is open in the front and I use both of these to keep everything cool and air moving.



https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-M...+laptop+cooler




https://www.coolerguys.com/products/...ual-120mm-kits

How noisy is the laptop cooler? I am temporarly used g a 12v pc fan which shifts air but is not very attractive.

Steve
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post #972 of 984 Old 07-28-2017, 05:19 PM
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How noisy is the laptop cooler? I am temporarly used g a 12v pc fan which shifts air but is not very attractive.

Steve
Inaudible unless you put your ear near the AVR.
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Power Sound Audio S7201 Quad 18" 4000W Sealed Subwoofer - Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Epson 5030UB Projector - Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - - XBox One S - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...
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post #973 of 984 Old 07-28-2017, 11:29 PM
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Inaudible unless you put your ear near the AVR.
Can you post a pic of this cooler on your receiver? A good looking solution is very welcome as my receivers (Anthem 710 too) take pride of place on the av stand!

Steve
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post #974 of 984 Old 07-28-2017, 11:45 PM
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Can you post a pic of this cooler on your receiver? A good looking solution is very welcome as my receivers (Anthem 710 too) take pride of place on the av stand!

Steve
It's the second attachment in my post number 970.

Power Sound Audio S7201 Quad 18" 4000W Sealed Subwoofer - Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Epson 5030UB Projector - Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - - XBox One S - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...

Last edited by climber07; 07-28-2017 at 11:58 PM.
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post #975 of 984 Old 07-28-2017, 11:49 PM
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Ahh yes! A perfect solution, not super elegant but fine for in a cabinet.
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post #976 of 984 Old 08-04-2017, 11:42 PM
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I have fitted the heat sinks using 3M adhesive thermal conductive tape - spot the heat sinks in the thermal imaging picture:-)
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post #977 of 984 Old 08-04-2017, 11:49 PM
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I have fitted the heat sinks using 3M adhesive thermal conductive tape - spot the heat sinks in the thermal imaging picture:-)
Awesome idea my friend. I might pick up a few and slap 'em on mine too. Can't hurt for sure.

Did you ever get an airflow solution for your AVR? Moving air up through the unit definitely helps. Especially if you have a closed cabinet. Mine is open and have great airflow now that I put the cooler on top. I also put one on my Emotiva XPA-2 300W amp. It gets a little warm too.

Power Sound Audio S7201 Quad 18" 4000W Sealed Subwoofer - Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Epson 5030UB Projector - Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - - XBox One S - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...
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post #978 of 984 Old 08-05-2017, 01:00 AM
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Putting a laptop cooler underneath your AVR is not a really a great idea, because it does almost nothing blowing against the (somewhat slotted) bottom plate.

Do not install AVRs into a closed cabinet.
A proven cooling solution for those Onkyo AVRs could consist of specific heat sinks mounted onto the major heat sources (chips) on the HDMI board plus some large 12VDC (120 - 140mm dia) low rpm (< 1000 rpm) and low noise (< 20db) fans on top of the unit and above the HDMI board, sucking the heated air out of and blowing it away from the unit. This will not only remove some of the "thermal stress" from the active components but from the passive ones too, which are in the vicinity of those "hot" chips". Any additional identical fan will add 3db to the already existing noise floor of the other fans. The sum of the generated noise of all fans (max 4 ?) mounted should stay below 20db to be "almost" inaudible.

Beware of any units and near boards on top the AVR which additionally might hamper air transport. A minimum of 2" clearance (free space) is needed above the top of the AVR to get this working, the more the better. The fans (usually appr. max 1" high) must be in really close (and tight) contact to the top cover of the AVR to prevent a "short" for the air being sucked out (air flow normally follows the path of lowest resistance), lowering the efficiency of air suction. A cut-out of the AVRs top cover is not needed (and necessary) for this to work sufficiently.
"Fresh" and hopefully cooler air will be entering the unit mostly from the bottom.

All those cooling measures taken will lower the temperature by at least 10°C (50°F) or > 20°C (100°F) or even more, depending upon efficiency.
I still own an Onkyo 3009 which works like a charm since I bought it. I prepared mine with those actions described from day 1, without any HDMI board exchange or repair needed up to now.

Last edited by gurkey; 08-05-2017 at 01:34 AM.
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post #979 of 984 Old 08-05-2017, 01:09 AM
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Awesome idea my friend. I might pick up a few and slap 'em on mine too. Can't hurt for sure.

Did you ever get an airflow solution for your AVR? Moving air up through the unit definitely helps. Especially if you have a closed cabinet. Mine is open and have great airflow now that I put the cooler on top. I also put one on my Emotiva XPA-2 300W amp. It gets a little warm too.
They sure do suck the heat out that's for sure! Interesting to see all the descret components around the left side of the board produce a lot of heat too, there must be some serious current flow in this parts. I am also fitting four 160mm fans with chrome grills to the top case, cutting out circles in the top cover for maximum airflow with absolute minimal fan speed. I have to figure out some way of getting them to turn on automatically. Apparently the 12v trigger on these onkyos doesn't trigger when the amp is on so I have to figure out some other control method. Maybe a thermal switch on a heat sink....

Steve
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post #980 of 984 Old 08-05-2017, 01:15 AM
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I use a master / slave power strip for automatically turning on the fans power supply with the AVR.
12VDC trigger usually does not provide enough current for this (max ~150 mA) and is prone to failure if the current drawn is to high. One might try USB 5VDC power (~max 500mA) to trip a relay which activates the fans power supply.
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post #981 of 984 Old 08-05-2017, 01:29 AM
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Putting a laptop cooler underneath your AVR is not a really a great idea, because it does almost nothing blowing against the (somewhat slotted) bottom plate.
Is it fairly easy to remove the bottom plate? I'd happily cut more slots out for better air flow. I also was intending to have the flow downwards rather than upwards to favour the hdmi board but I doubt there's much in it?

The thermal camera reveals a fair amount of heat being produced on the board below the hdmi board too, maybe some more air vents at the rear near these boards would be useful too.

This all may seem a bit ott but i want to do this job and not have to worry about it in the future!

Steve
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post #982 of 984 Old 08-05-2017, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by gurkey View Post
I use a master / slave power strip for automatically turning on the fans power supply with the AVR.
12VDC trigger usually does not provide enough current for this (max ~150 mA) and is prone to failure if the current drawn is to high. One might try USB 5VDC power (~max 500mA) to trip a relay which activates the fans power supply.
I have tried the 5v USB but it stays on when the receiver is off:-(
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post #983 of 984 Old 08-05-2017, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bighairybloke View Post
Is it fairly easy to remove the bottom plate? I'd happily cut more slots out for better air flow. I also was intending to have the flow downwards rather than upwards to favour the hdmi board but I doubt there's much in it?

The thermal camera reveals a fair amount of heat being produced on the board below the hdmi board too, maybe some more air vents at the rear near these boards would be useful too.

This all may seem a bit ott but i want to do this job and not have to worry about it in the future!

Steve
The bottom plate carries the feet needed to support the unit and provides enough clearance for air entering the unit from the bottom. I wouldn't do anything there... it's to much hassle.

The described cooling measures will even remove heat originating from the boards below the HDMI board, because it removes any heat which leaves the HDMI board or originates from below due to the nature of air suction. Air flow for those boards underneath the HDMI board is been hampered anyhow by the horizontal orientation of those boards. If you look at other makers AVRs they arrived most of the time at the same choice of placement simply because of the orientation of the inputs / outputs on the rear panel... It's probably the most cost effective way of doing this...

I owned several (and still own some) Onkyo AVRs (906, 876, 5007, 3009, 5009, 5509 etc.) over time and have used the stated cooling measures for all of those with success. None of them ever got really "hot" or needed repair...
With the (unfortunate) move of Onkyo away from Audyssey to that inferior AccuEQ this has changed though.

Last edited by gurkey; 08-05-2017 at 03:40 AM.
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post #984 of 984 Old 08-05-2017, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighairybloke View Post
They sure do suck the heat out that's for sure! Interesting to see all the descret components around the left side of the board produce a lot of heat too, there must be some serious current flow in this parts. I am also fitting four 160mm fans with chrome grills to the top case, cutting out circles in the top cover for maximum airflow with absolute minimal fan speed. I have to figure out some way of getting them to turn on automatically. Apparently the 12v trigger on these onkyos doesn't trigger when the amp is on so I have to figure out some other control method. Maybe a thermal switch on a heat sink....

Steve
If you buy a green power surge protector, you can get a wall-wart and make a 12V trigger. Way back in another thread I posted how I made mine.

Here's a programmable thermal fan controller. You can set the on and off temps.

https://www.coolerguys.com/products/...th-led-display



You may also be able to buy a thermal controller from CoolerGuys or buy one of their cabinet kits and use the fans in your case.

https://www.coolerguys.com/collectio...ontrollers-kit

Power Sound Audio S7201 Quad 18" 4000W Sealed Subwoofer - Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Epson 5030UB Projector - Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - - XBox One S - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...
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