Looking for advice. I need to replace my old stereo amp.
This is an overview of what is hooked up today in our family room
1) Movies ThroughTV, MUSIC through RCA
2) Someday this will be HDMI
3) AMP has builtin preamp for turntable
4) DVD recorder
5) Old Video is only played to be recorded on DVDs
I have 2 Boston Acoustics A150 speakers in the room as well as a powered subwoofer [Definitive Tech Powerfield 15]
(connected across the preamp output from the amp).
There is another pair of smaller speakers in the livingroom on the B-output of the Amp, used to play the same music as in the family room
when we entertain.
The A150's have just been refoamed and reconed by a person I can only describe as a 'magician'; they sound better than new (he put little weights on the cones to offset the wires on the other sides).
When we watch TV we sometimes turn on the AMP and get better sound by adding the A150's and the SUB to the existing TV speakers.
We also like to listen to Music (With the TV off).
The speakers are so good, that I now can tell the difference between LAME encoded VBR ripped MP3's and origional CDs.
The Slingbox is in the mix, since the kids are at school, and sometimes want to watch TV and they have no access there, so....
And yes - there is actually an ethernet hub in this pile of media, as well as a 3 port HDMI switch, since I am currently using one more HDMI port than my TV has.
My old NAD amp (receiver) is about shot (controls are failing, FM Tuner is dead), and it does not really work well in this new TV world.
Now - I want to add some smaller rear speakers in the family room, I think that's enough? Or do I need four additonal speakers, along with a center channel?
What type of MultiMedia Modern Amp (Receiver) should I be looking at? What additional Speakers to add to the Sub and A150's?
What should I read?
I assume when I am done in the new world most items will connect to the AMP and from there go to the TV. I know from previous attempts at this, the new AMP will have to be able to delay the audio before giving it to the speakers since the TV takes time to process the images (I hate out of sync issues).
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks for the laughs
you need an AVR badly!
What is your price range?
Look at the first few posts in this thread, this will explain the different features available in the different models in the Denon AVR lineup. Also note, the street price on all these models is substantially less than MSRP:
Reading: thread 1334369 (Thanks for the pointer) - I agree I need an AVR.
I have some concern about the amount of power the amps provide. The specs of the A150's 8ohms 15wpc minimal, 75wpc recommended (150wpc peak). How do you make sure that the amp provides the correct amount of power?
As far as price range is concerned ... I dont know, havent thought it through...
Of course purchasing additional speakers and a good AVR will set me back at least $1,000 - possibly more. If its much more, then I would grow into it a part at a time.
Not sure why someone found this a good laugh. I know there is a pile of components, it is what we use.
Buy a Denon 3312 or 4311 and call it a day. You can spent COUNTLESS hours researching AVRs. Place a value on your time, buy whichever of the above meet you're requirements for connections. Check out the first half dozen or so posts in the Denon XX12 models forum. Read the last 10-20 pages of the Denon 4311 no price talk forum. Read the "stickies" on amplifiers.
One rule of thumb for when you want to be able to play up to the limits of speaker without clipping the amp: is to choose an amp with an honest continuous wpc rating that is twice the speakers' continuous power rating (not known in this case), which is also the program power rating, or sometimes the max recommended power, and is half peak power handling (peaks are brief bursts of sound, usually less than 200ms).
So for you, that's 75 watts.
An example is a 100w RMS, 200w Program, 400 Peak. You could get a 200w amp. But if you had more sensitive speakers such that you knew out weren't going to turn it up, then a 100wpc or less would work fine too.
Most people use only a fraction of the power in their amps or AVRs. That is one of the reasons many AVRs do not output the same amount of power with 5 channels driven verse 2 channels driven. If you have evdr seen the needles on a McIntosh 200wpc amp they rearly go above 20 and at average levels may stay below 2 watts.
OK, so I'm feeling guilty about posting "thanks for the laughs", but it was a honest mistake. Lately I've been using the AVS app on my iphone, and this is the first time I looked at this forum on my laptop. Let me tell you, the formatting differences between the two devices is night and day. Evidently not much for text, but on a computer the OPs original post is decipherable here, and makes sense. On the iphone, I couldn't figure out what was being conveyed. So, my bad for assuming the original post was a joke, it sure looked that way on my phone.
I would just start out with 5.1 and see how it works in your room. Most rooms don't need 7 channels but sometimes it helps fill in the gaps with bigger rooms. I would for sure get a center channel because it should give you better sound than your TV. You just need to try to match it up as close as possible with the fronts. This may be difficult with your speaker so you may just have to get as close as possible just by listening. I'm not sure the new Boston Acoustics speakers will match your fronts but you could try them and then look at some other brands. Maybe buy something with a 30 day return policy so you can bring the center home and see if it's a good match. The surrounds don't have to match perfect but you still want something similar to the fronts. You wouldn't want some bright surround speakers to go with warm fronts.
I agree with this. Or even better: most people use only a fraction of the power most of the time.
Except for occasional peaks, or less occasional if it's turned up louder.
I don't think the reason the AVR puts out less 5 channel power is because the manufacturer didn't think it needed it as much. I think it's because it's more difficult to put out 5 channels of sound. The power supply is shared, so no matter what the application (needs of the customer), the two channel output would be higher than the five channel output.
If your average level is 2 watts, and you have 10 decibel peaks, then you only need 20 watts, as you say.
If your average level is 2 watts and you have 20 decibel peaks, then you need 200 watts.
You get 20 decibel peaks in more dynamic music, and in movie soundtracks.
If you never see the needle move up to 80w 150w 200w, then I suspect it's more due to the response of the gauge, which would need to respond to short 10 to 200ms bursts of power.
Else, why ever buy more than a 30 watt amp?
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