Official Marantz NR1602 Owner and Buyer Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 220 Old 04-03-2012, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Any one owns Marantz NR1602 ? Please share your experience and featrures you liked pictures of setups a plus, the manifacturer specification is confusing, not sure if it's 5.1 or 7.1 ? I'm ready to pull the trigger on one to replace my Onkyo, The main raison for upgrading is Airplay, 3D, and the slim design features.
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post #2 of 220 Old 04-04-2012, 07:56 AM
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I own a Marantz NR1602 and the SR7005 AVR as well. I use the SR7005 in a full 5.1 home theater set-up while the NR1602 is used as a stereo receiver to boost TV sound in another room.

The slim NR1602 is a full 7.1 channel unit with internet, airplay, USB input port, 3D, etc. Perhaps any confusion stems from the lower price, more basic NR1402 which is a 5.1 unit without internet capability, the USB port, etc. I like the internet connectability of the NR1602 and SR7005 for connection to internet radio stations and music from Pandora.

The NR1602 gives up little to its larger brother SR7005 but the per channel power output. If want a slim receiver and you can live with a 50 watts per channel unit, then the NR1602 is the perfect solution.
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post #3 of 220 Old 04-07-2012, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Griffin View Post

I own a Marantz NR1602 and the SR7005 AVR as well. I use the SR7005 in a full 5.1 home theater set-up while the NR1602 is used as a stereo receiver to boost TV sound in another room.

The slim NR1602 is a full 7.1 channel unit with internet, airplay, USB input port, 3D, etc. Perhaps any confusion stems from the lower price, more basic NR1402 which is a 5.1 unit without internet capability, the USB port, etc. I like the internet connectability of the NR1602 and SR7005 for connection to internet radio stations and music from Pandora.

The NR1602 gives up little to its larger brother SR7005 but the per channel power output. If want a slim receiver and you can live with a 50 watts per channel unit, then the NR1602 is the perfect solution.

I think 50 watts per channel is little bit low for my taste, but I think as long as the subwoofer is powerfull it should be ok, don't you think so? my subwoofer is from the HT-R960 HTIB the receiver which is came with HT-R960 outputs 130 watts per channel @ 8 ohms, it's going to be a huge drawback for me, is there any other good airplay compatible receivers ?
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post #4 of 220 Old 04-15-2012, 10:35 AM
 
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I'd say that I'm a bit surprised that this receiver wasn't more popular, but I can understand why it isn't. I fills the very specific need of "Denon AVR1912, but shorter". I say "Denon 1912" because that is essentially what it is. Anybody coming along later wondering what people think of this receiver, just go look at the enormous Denon AVR1912 thread. Any joys and annoyances that you will find there will hold true here for the Marantz NR1602. They are both made by the same company, contain the same software, and are extremely feature similar. The only real variances are the output power of 50W/channel versus 90W/channel, and 4-port HDMI switching instead of 6-port. This receiver exists for the people that want to fit the 1912 feature set in to a <6" space.

Doing a quick search for "NR1602" in this forum shows a concern that the receiver is only 50W. One post even claims that it will only reliably spit out 23W on the test bench. Let's assume this is true, and let's also assume that the AVR1912 spits out a perfect 90W all the time. What does this actually mean in the real world? Normally nothing, as most listening, especially when paired up with a powered sub, never exceeds a couple of watts. According to entry-level audio theory, it takes twice the power to cause a 3db increase in volume. This puts the difference between 23W and 90W at roughly 6db.

Let's do some quick back-of-the-napkin math! Using perfectly average 89db/W efficiency speakers at say 8 feet, that puts you at roughly 4W required to reach reference levels of 85db. 85db is of course freaking loud, and the vast majority of us don't use much more than 75db in our homes, with a power requirement closer to 0.5W. Going the other direction, 90W lets you reach roughly 99db with this fictional setup, while the NR1602's 23W still gives you a "GODDAMN THAT'S LOUD!" 93db.

In short: 23W versus 90W means very little, and 50W versus 90W means even less. The power rating is not a reason to skip over this receiver.

So, I've had mine for about a month now. Audyssey MultiEQ is fantastic. AirPlay is close to magic. The build quality is not nearly as good as the Yamaha RX-V2500 that it replaced, but it's also a $650 MSRP receiver versus $1100 MSRP. I wish it had dropped most of the analog inputs in favor of the two extra HDMI inputs that the AVR1912 has. The thing looks great, and more importantly actually fits in my new stand. The UI is convoluted and is poorly documented, as all Denons that I have ever touched are.

If I had the space, I would have picked up an AVR1912 and not a model higher, nor lower. $100 less and two more HDMI in. The loss of network features on the AVR1712 would suck, and the network plus drop to 5.1 would suck on the NR1402. In general, the NR1602 is a great little receiver that serves it's function of "short 1912" very well. Once one gets through the poorly documented setup, it functions fantastically in day to day use. MultiEQ sounds great, and it does everything else that you would expect a modern receiver to do.

Thumbs up!
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post #5 of 220 Old 04-16-2012, 09:43 AM
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Guys,

I have the NR1602 (fantastic AVR!) but cannot pass BtB and Whites above 234 levels over hdmi (tv -> AVR <- BD player)... looks like my tv (Pana GT30) is clipping white and crushing blacks due receiver connection.. just saw that when using S&M calibration disk.
I haven't updated any firmware version so far (not enough ethernet cable to run through rooms).
Is this a known issue or a firmware update is available to fix it?

As far as I know- many AVR's clip whites over hdmi...

Thanks for any toughts.
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post #6 of 220 Old 04-17-2012, 01:05 AM
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Hello, new to the forum.

Recently had a Marantz SR7001 take it's 4th dump with a problem in the 5v section of the power supply. I'm ready to replace it. Looking at the NR1602, but am wondering if the newer 50watt will deliver the same punch the 100watt the 7001 had. Yes I have read about the watt/dB deal, and I'm running quite efficient speakers (supposedly ~102dB) but still...need some punch. I also did not use the EQ in the 7001, I almost always ran it in Direct or Pure Direct mode.

The NR1602 is in the right price range and has enough inputs for the time being and the internet connectivity is pretty cool too. The thing holding me back is the power. My other option is to take back my loaned out Marantz AV600 and buy another big power amp (~100watt/ch) and use my tv as the video switcher.

My system is a pair of Altec Lansing A7-500 'Voice of the Theater' with Vampire wire braided copper/silver speaker wire. In the past they have been run off a Hafler 50watt power amp and it was ok. ~5years ago went to the SR7001 and it was great (concert level volume could be attained with clarity and punch...and crooked pictures on the wall). They are currently being powered by the ~20watt? from my Panasonic TH-50HD8UK plasma and it's just not cutting it..

What do you folks think? Is this the right unit or should I start shopping power amps.
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post #7 of 220 Old 04-23-2012, 09:31 PM
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I recently picked up an NR1602 and started playing with it today. I'm still getting accustomed to the operation; AirPlay has been a little hit or miss and the Wizz app can be as well. I tweaked some router settings, which seem to have helped (lowered MTU packet size, RTS and fragmentation thresholds, beacon interval and allowed anonymous internet requests. I can provide details if requested.) Bells and whistles aside, I bought this receiver for good quality sound reproduction and the slim form factor.

I did note the multi-room feature when purchasing. This may be a silly question, but in a single room setup is it possible to playback audio from one source and watch video from another source? For example listen to music off HDMI 2 while watching TV from HDMI 3? Or better yet, any audio source including AirPlay/ USB/ Internet radio, etc, while watching TV off an HDMI source? I can't seem to find a definitive answer and haven't figured out how to do it if it is possible.
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post #8 of 220 Old 04-23-2012, 10:15 PM
 
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On your remote, if you push the little menu looking thing above the word Source, to the left of Z2, it should give you separate audio and video input selections, if I recall. I haven't tried it myself, but I remember seeing a menu that does what you want and I think that's how I got there.

Also, AirPlay has been flawless here. Try run in it through iTunes. There you can select multiple zone out, spitting out audio over your pc speakers and the NR1602. Pretty awesome walking room to room and having the same audio everywhere. You can also use Apple's Remote app on your iOS thing to control iTunes directly, with the same multi-out functionality, giving you access to all your music, not just the stuff on your iPad.
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post #9 of 220 Old 04-24-2012, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darklordjames View Post

On your remote, if you push the little menu looking thing above the word Source, to the left of Z2, it should give you separate audio and video input selections, if I recall. I haven't tried it myself, but I remember seeing a menu that does what you want and I think that's how I got there.

I gave this a shot quickly before heading out this morning. It appears to be a matrix view of all inputs, but I couldn't figure a way of choosing one audio input and another video input. I downloaded the manual and went through it (slow morning at work) and couldn't find any answers there either.

I did see this in the basic operation section, but I'm not entirely sure what it means:

"When an input source select button (BD,
DVD, SAT, TV, CD, NET/USB, TUNER or
M-XP) is pressed once, the unit switches
to device selected by the operating mode of
the remote control. If the input source select
button is then pressed again twice, the input
source for the unit is switched."
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post #10 of 220 Old 04-24-2012, 07:26 PM
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I don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but I just tried some things that appeared like they should do the job of letting me watch TV while listening to music, but still no dice.

Here are the steps I took:

1) Switched to the desired audio input. I tried CD, Tuner and NET/USB.
2) Pressed "Amp Menu".
3) Scrolled down to "Input Setup", pressed right directional button.
4) Opened the first menu option, "Video".
5) Changed "Video Select" to a different input ("SAT" in my case).
6) Returned out of the menu.

What this produces is a blank screen and the proper audio output. When switching back and forth to this input it will quickly show some info at the bottom of the TV as follows: "Audio: CD" (or whatever other input you followed the directions on). "Video: SAT". And an audio mode.

Logic suggest this should be producing a result of playing audio and video as the inputs have been selected, but it's not. Am I missing something or in error somewhere? Can anyone reproduce this, or better yet get it working?

Thanks for any insight.
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post #11 of 220 Old 04-24-2012, 07:32 PM
 
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My suggestion? Not many people own this receiver. Go hop over in to the Denon AVR1712/1912 thread and ask them. The software is exactly the same on the AVR1912 as it is on the NR1602. Tons of people own that box on this forum, so you'll have a much higher chance of finding someone that already knows how to make what you want to do work.
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post #12 of 220 Old 04-25-2012, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lubs View Post

I did note the multi-room feature when purchasing. This may be a silly question, but in a single room setup is it possible to playback audio from one source and watch video from another source? For example listen to music off HDMI 2 while watching TV from HDMI 3? Or better yet, any audio source including AirPlay/ USB/ Internet radio, etc, while watching TV off an HDMI source? I can't seem to find a definitive answer and haven't figured out how to do it if it is possible.

It's possible using analog video sources only, so you'll need to also connect a component video cable from your cable/sat box to the 1602 in addition to the HDMI. Also note that when Airplay is playing in Zone 2, it must also be selected in the main zone (ie. cannot play another source in the main zone with Airplay audio going to Zone 2).

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post #13 of 220 Old 05-01-2012, 09:29 AM
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Somehow the last couple of responses slipped under my radar. Thanks for the information. It's a bit of an annoyance to run components, as I was so pleased to be able to use ARC for TV audio without running an optical cable. This is a rare function for me to use, but one that seems relatively common in other receivers. I suppose I can make do without.

With respect to AirPlay, a router reset seems to have remedied the previously spotty ability to use the function. I'm not sure if the other changes I made to router settings also aided, but a router reset would be my first course of action with any AirPlay difficulties.

I got the last piece of my setup last night and I'll all hooked up now. I'm quite happy with the results for a reasonably modest system:
Samsung UN55D6000
Marantz NR1602
Energy RC Micro 5.0
Outlaw M8

I was worried I may have gone too weak with the satellites before the sub arrived, but it really filled out the sound and is adequate for my apartment. Somewhere down the road I may pull the fronts back and pick up some bookshelfs for a 7.1 setup. Now to enjoy!
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post #14 of 220 Old 05-01-2012, 07:04 PM
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I just gave this setup a go in trying again to watch TV and listen to music simultaneously, but realized a shortfall of ARC...

Cable box connected directly to TV with HDMI
NR1602 output connected to TV input with HDMI w/ ARC

This delivers the desired result of cable on TV with full control of audio, and quite seamlessly at that. TV audio is automatically cut and sent to the receiver via ARC when the receiver is turned on. Unfortunately 5.1 audio is down-mixed to 2.0, so it comes with a pretty great cost. This is strange, since I've managed to get 5.1 audio over ARC with the TV's built in media player function. Any way to get this to play nice, short of running an optical cable?
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post #15 of 220 Old 05-02-2012, 05:59 AM
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^^
In most every instance (with a few exceptions), HDTVs will downmix HDMI connected source audio to 2.0 regardless of whether you use ARC or optical.

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post #16 of 220 Old 05-02-2012, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lubs View Post

I gave this a shot quickly before heading out this morning. It appears to be a matrix view of all inputs, but I couldn't figure a way of choosing one audio input and another video input. I downloaded the manual and went through it (slow morning at work) and couldn't find any answers there either.

I did see this in the basic operation section, but I'm not entirely sure what it means:

"When an input source select button (BD,
DVD, SAT, TV, CD, NET/USB, TUNER or
M-XP) is pressed once, the unit switches
to device selected by the operating mode of
the remote control. If the input source select
button is then pressed again twice, the input
source for the unit is switched."

Well, the remote can control external devices like BD and CD players. When you press the source button on the remote ONCE, you don't switch to that input on the NR1602, you just set up the remote to control that particular external device. When you press it twice, you select that input...
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post #17 of 220 Old 05-02-2012, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lubs View Post

I don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but I just tried some things that appeared like they should do the job of letting me watch TV while listening to music, but still no dice.

Here are the steps I took:

1) Switched to the desired audio input. I tried CD, Tuner and NET/USB.
2) Pressed "Amp Menu".
3) Scrolled down to "Input Setup", pressed right directional button.
4) Opened the first menu option, "Video".
5) Changed "Video Select" to a different input ("SAT" in my case).
6) Returned out of the menu.

What this produces is a blank screen and the proper audio output. When switching back and forth to this input it will quickly show some info at the bottom of the TV as follows: "Audio: CD" (or whatever other input you followed the directions on). "Video: SAT". And an audio mode.

Logic suggest this should be producing a result of playing audio and video as the inputs have been selected, but it's not. Am I missing something or in error somewhere? Can anyone reproduce this, or better yet get it working?

Thanks for any insight.

Check page 101 of the user manual PDF. It shows how to set input-assign to DIGITAL instead of HDMI so the optical/coax input can be heard instead of HDMI audio while a particular HDMI is watched.

However, it's a real pity that each HDMI can only appear in this table once. For example, I'd love to use the BD button on my remote to select the combination of HDMI1 video with HDMI1 audio (normal situation), while e.g. pressing DVD would allow me to watch HDMI1 video while listening to DIGITAL audio. So when I really watch a BD I would press BD, but when I want to watch a BD while listening to a CD, I could then press DVD every time. This is currently not possible but would be a nice firmware upgrade
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post #18 of 220 Old 05-06-2012, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philmcgee View Post

Well, the remote can control external devices like BD and CD players. When you press the source button on the remote ONCE, you don't switch to that input on the NR1602, you just set up the remote to control that particular external device. When you press it twice, you select that input...

This seems painfully obvious now. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by philmcgee View Post

Check page 101 of the user manual PDF. It shows how to set input-assign to DIGITAL instead of HDMI so the optical/coax input can be heard instead of HDMI audio while a particular HDMI is watched.

However, it's a real pity that each HDMI can only appear in this table once. For example, I'd love to use the BD button on my remote to select the combination of HDMI1 video with HDMI1 audio (normal situation), while e.g. pressing DVD would allow me to watch HDMI1 video while listening to DIGITAL audio. So when I really watch a BD I would press BD, but when I want to watch a BD while listening to a CD, I could then press DVD every time. This is currently not possible but would be a nice firmware upgrade

Thanks for pointing this out. It still wouldn't allow being able to listen to AirPlay or other Net/USB functions with a video stream. Your firmware update proposal would be handy nonetheless. I wonder how long firmware support will continue for this model, or if we'll even see another update or added features. I'm hopeful...
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post #19 of 220 Old 05-06-2012, 07:25 PM
 
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"I'm hopeful..."

Don't be. The only firmware update we'll see is if Denon finds a serious crash bug that needs fixing. Being a year old, this is unlikely. They won't add features, as that would take away incentive from buying whatever next model has more software features.

This isn't and Xbox 360 where the feature set has seen incredible expansion over it's lifetime. Those guys are selling software and services. This is a receiver. Denon's goal is to make you just barely happy enough to buy another Denon receiver as quickly as possible. This is not unique to Denon, and holds true for all the receiver manufacturers. Hell, look at all the early networkable TVs out there with just Netflix or Pandora that could easily be host to a wide variety of other services with some simple software updates. No, Samsung and Sony would rather that you buy the newer version that comes loaded with Hulu, Airplay, Picasa, and Facebook instead.
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post #20 of 220 Old 05-06-2012, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darklordjames View Post

"I'm hopeful..."

Don't be. The only firmware update we'll see is if Denon finds a serious crash bug that needs fixing. Being a year old, this is unlikely. They won't add features, as that would take away incentive from buying whatever next model has more software features.

Yes, I know you're right. I suppose there's no point in being hopeful. It's still a very competent receiver with some extra goodies regardless.
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post #21 of 220 Old 05-08-2012, 04:40 PM
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I am having an odd issue. When i set my Audio on Auto it goes to Stereo even if i know the audio output should be DTS or at the least surround sound. Anyone know how to fix / troubleshoot?

Source Blu ray HDMI out playing Transformers blu ray
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post #22 of 220 Old 05-08-2012, 05:13 PM
 
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This is more of a general "HDMI is kind of a broken, piece of crap format" issue. Try changing the order in which you turn things on. TV first, then receiver, then Bluray. In example, if I play my Xbox 360 it defaults to DD5.1. If I turn off the receiver and leave the 360 on, the 360 drops back to stereo, then stays in stereo when I turn the receiver back on. If the receiver is on, then I start up the 360, I have never noticed it fail to go in to proper surround.
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post #23 of 220 Old 05-08-2012, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerz View Post

I am having an odd issue. When i set my Audio on Auto it goes to Stereo even if i know the audio output should be DTS or at the least surround sound. Anyone know how to fix / troubleshoot?

Source Blu ray HDMI out playing Transformers blu ray

Verify the Blu-Ray player's audio output settings. You may also want to try a different HDMI cable and / or different HDMI input.
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post #24 of 220 Old 05-12-2012, 01:28 PM
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Does anyone know if the NR1602 will accept 192/24bit FLAC files converted to aLAc played over Airplay?
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post #25 of 220 Old 05-12-2012, 05:36 PM
 
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http://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html

Doesn't matter if it does. Listening to 192/24 is pointless, and in fact harmful to audio quality.
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post #26 of 220 Old 05-12-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:


Does anyone know if the NR1602 will accept 192/24bit FLAC files converted to aLAc played over Airplay?

No. The 1602 will accept up to 24 bit/96 kHZ FLAC. ALAC is not supported.

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post #27 of 220 Old 05-12-2012, 08:45 PM
 
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"No. The 1602 will accept up to 24 bit/96 kHZ FLAC. ALAC is not supported."

You can't run FLAC over AirPlay.
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post #28 of 220 Old 05-12-2012, 08:53 PM
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You can't run FLAC over AirPlay.

My bad, you can play 24 bit/96 kHz FLAC from an appropriate media server. Wasn't thinking.....

Airplay is limited to 16 bit/44.1 kHz.

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post #29 of 220 Old 05-14-2012, 03:02 AM
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Thank you for your answers.

1. I've bought 192Khz/24 bit music online (FLAC) and my NR 1602 won't play the songs even if I try playing it via USB-stock or DLNA server.

Shouldn't the amp in principle be able to handle this format in view of its specifications (i.e. the amp appears to have a DAC that will handle 192/24 music).

2. I can't find a reference stating that Airplay is limited to the 44 khz/16bit format. Please provide me with a reference for this statement.

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post #30 of 220 Old 05-14-2012, 04:02 AM
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^^
1. As noted in your 1602 Owner's manual, FLAC is limited to 96khz/24 via the USB jack (p. 27) and media server (p. 34).

2. Found the below on an Apple Support board:

"Airplay will stream the 24/96 content to receiving devices like the Marantz NA7004,

but only from your computer, not from one of the portable Apple devices. Those portable devices, like the iPhone and iPad are internally limited to 16/44. You can use your iPhone or iPad to control the content streaming from the computer to the receiver.

Also, when you listen to music on an iPhone or iPod, the music is not at the 16/44 resolution, it is lower. Apple provides a DAC in each device that does not deliver the full 16/44 resolution. 16/44 is equivalent to CD quality and the Apple Lossless format. If you want that quality from your iPhone, iPod or iPad then you need an external digital dock that decrypts the USB output and converts it at 16/44. Some of the docks available can process up to 24/192, but the iPhone, etc. are still going to restrict you to 16/44 maximum.

You can also use a streaming system over wifi from you iTunes library directly to your iPhone or iPad. Try Zumocast for that, but again, limited to 16/44 and you would need the digital dock as well to get that resolution.

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