The "official" Yamaha RX-V673 thread. 7.2-Channel Network AVR - Page 106 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #3151 of 3486 Old 01-28-2014, 11:47 AM
Advanced Member
 
Woobieizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Good Ole' Copper Fan
Posts: 847
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by kli View Post

I do, but I also did with the old receiver.

I did just do a quick test - turned the PC down all the way down to just above mute. It lessens the "pop" somewhat, but its still there and noticeable. The odd thing though is that the video playback volume hasn't changed, but the normal windows sounds are now indiscernible.

Windows 7 or Win 8x?

individual Sound Control via Mixer.

Woobieizer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #3152 of 3486 Old 01-28-2014, 11:57 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bond 007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 12,066
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Liked: 838
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

Your observation at -30 dB doesn't sound abnormal to me at all, so I think you're fine. I don't know what speakers you have or their efficiency, or how sensitive your hearing is, though--I can only offer my experience that around -30 is a common TV-watching volume for me.

Remember that the logarithmic scale applies to the power output of the amplifier, not to the volume of sound you perceive. You need to double the power output to get a 3 dB gain, but you need 10x the power output for a perceived doubling of the volume in your ears. Most low-volume listening that doesn't interfere with conversation is probably less than 1 watt into the speakers. Once you decide to turn it up, because of the logarithmic nature of audio power, then you really start to chew through the available amplifier power. When you go from -30 to -20 your ears will hear about twice the volume, but your amp output has increased by 10x.
+1

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
Bond 007 is online now  
post #3153 of 3486 Old 01-28-2014, 01:03 PM
kli
Member
 
kli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

Windows 7 or Win 8x?

individual Sound Control via Mixer.

Hm, I'll verify again, but I swear when I checked the settings last night that it was set to control everything together rather than individually. I'll take a look again tonight.

I'm running Windows 8.1. I still have my old receiver in the AV cabinet as a "backup" until I know everything is working correctly, so i'll also switch it back over to the old one and see if the popping is there. That should tell me if its an issue with the sub/sub connection or not. Since it didn't start until I switched to the new receiver, it probably is a configuration/receiver issue.

I'll also check out whether there is something with the HDMI audio out. I initially had tried to output via HDMI and I found that there was a lot of static via HDMI. I didn't have much time to troubleshoot at the time so I switched back to the SPDIF connection. Since the 2 outputs have 2 different sets of chips/drivers (HDMI = NVIDIA, SPDIF = REALTEK) its entirely possible that it could be a configuration conflict somewhere.

I also saw NVIDIA has updated drivers out, so I'll have to look into whether or not that may make a difference.
kli is offline  
post #3154 of 3486 Old 01-28-2014, 03:24 PM
Newbie
 
emergesunscathe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

Hello all-

 

I have a bit of a conundrum with my RX-V673, and it's kind of driving me nuts.  I have my receiver hooked up to my Samsung SmarTV (UN55F6400) with one HDMI cable, in the ARC port.  I have no problem getting Smart Function (Netflix, etc.) audio returned to the receiver, and great surround sound for all my devices otherwise.

 

The problem is, when I first turn things on in the morning, and select my cable box as the source on the RX-V673, sound works for a few seconds, then switches to the ARC.  The TV itself should not be outputting any sound to trigger the ARC to be "activated" or whatever.  If I change the source on the RX-V673 back to the cable box, all is well.  It's just frustrating that it automatically switches to the ARC without any sound output from the TV.  This only occurs when initially turning everything on in the morning or whenever, and it doesn't matter what order I turn the devices on in.  

 

I'm using a Logitech Harmony 550 remote to control everything.  I set one of the custom buttons on the remote to switch the source to cable on the cable activity, so it's one button press, but it's still frustrating.

 

If this has been asked and answered, I'm sorry.  This problem seems difficult to search for answers for.

emergesunscathe is offline  
post #3155 of 3486 Old 01-28-2014, 03:43 PM
Advanced Member
 
Woobieizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Good Ole' Copper Fan
Posts: 847
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Woobieizer is offline  
post #3156 of 3486 Old 01-28-2014, 05:00 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bond 007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 12,066
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Liked: 838
Quote:
Originally Posted by emergesunscathe View Post

Hello all-

I have a bit of a conundrum with my RX-V673, and it's kind of driving me nuts.  I have my receiver hooked up to my Samsung SmarTV (UN55F6400) with one HDMI cable, in the ARC port.  I have no problem getting Smart Function (Netflix, etc.) audio returned to the receiver, and great surround sound for all my devices otherwise.

The problem is, when I first turn things on in the morning, and select my cable box as the source on the RX-V673, sound works for a few seconds, then switches to the ARC.  The TV itself should not be outputting any sound to trigger the ARC to be "activated" or whatever.  If I change the source on the RX-V673 back to the cable box, all is well.  It's just frustrating that it automatically switches to the ARC without any sound output from the TV.  This only occurs when initially turning everything on in the morning or whenever, and it doesn't matter what order I turn the devices on in.  

I'm using a Logitech Harmony 550 remote to control everything.  I set one of the custom buttons on the remote to switch the source to cable on the cable activity, so it's one button press, but it's still frustrating.

If this has been asked and answered, I'm sorry.  This problem seems difficult to search for answers for.
That problem is extremely common. It can easily be solved by turning off HDMI Control and ARC and running an optical cable from the tv to the 673.

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
Bond 007 is online now  
post #3157 of 3486 Old 01-29-2014, 07:16 AM
Member
 
DecLinE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 43
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hello, I'm from Italy and I'm a new owner of Yamaha RX-V675 connected to a kit Canton Movie 70CX.
I have some questions:

1. I did the initial setup with YPAO (as per instructions, I set the volume of the sub in the middle "0" and the crossover to 160Hz , that is the max). It set the distance at 3.5 mt (which is correct), with a level of -1.0dB (which I set to "0") and the crossover to 160Hz (which I set to 100Hz...am I wrong?). What should I do to optimize my subwoofer?

2. How the "Dialog Lift" should be set? For now I left it to "0", because (ignorantly) I thought that the voice should clearly starting from the center channel underneath my television.

3. As for the parametric EQ , YPAO set it to FLAT...should I set it to NATURAL to improve the overall sound?

4. If I wanted to raise the level of the subwoofer should I raise it directly from the sub, as it is now to "0", or raise the level of dB from the speakers manual configuration?

5. I connected a WDTV Live for watching contents in 480p/576p/720p, and for now I have set in the menu VIDEO PROCESSING the DIRECT MODE. If I would set to 1080P would see better quality?

6. In the speakers manual configuration, YPAO set the distances and levels in the same way between left and right side (FL and FR are both set to +1.0dB, SL and SR are both set to +3.0dB), but if I go to Parametric EQ and go to MANUAL SETTING (where you can see graphics), the values are different from left and right (Example: left is +184.5 and right is another value). Is it ok or is it something wrong?

Thank you.
DecLinE is offline  
post #3158 of 3486 Old 01-29-2014, 07:37 AM
Senior Member
 
ThinkRationally's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 301
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by DecLinE View Post

Hello, I'm from Italy and I'm a new owner of Yamaha RX-V675 connected to a kit Canton Movie 70CX.
I have some questions:

1. I did the initial setup with YPAO (as per instructions, I set the volume of the sub in the middle "0" and the crossover to 160Hz , that is the max). It set the distance at 3.5 mt (which is correct), with a level of -1.0dB (which I set to "0") and the crossover to 160Hz (which I set to 100Hz...am I wrong?). What should I do to optimize my subwoofer?

2. How the "Dialog Lift" should be set? For now I left it to "0", because (ignorantly) I thought that the voice should clearly starting from the center channel underneath my television.

3. As for the parametric EQ , YPAO set it to FLAT...should I set it to NATURAL to improve the overall sound?

4. If I wanted to raise the level of the subwoofer should I raise it directly from the sub, as it is now to "0", or raise the level of dB from the speakers manual configuration?

5. I connected a WDTV Live for watching contents in 480p/576p/720p, and for now I have set in the menu VIDEO PROCESSING the DIRECT MODE. If I would set to 1080P would see better quality?

6. In the speakers manual configuration, YPAO set the distances and levels in the same way between left and right side (FL and FR are both set to +1.0dB, SL and SR are both set to +3.0dB), but if I go to Parametric EQ and go to MANUAL SETTING (where you can see graphics), the values are different from left and right (Example: left is +184.5 and right is another value). Is it ok or is it something wrong?

Thank you.

I can try to answer some of these.

1. I'm surprised it didn't set the subwoofer distance a bit further than it actually is to account for delay within the subwoofer. In any case, I would take what YPAO set for distance even if it's further than the sub actually is. As for the level, you can adjust it up if you like more powerful bass. My feeling is that YPAO sets the sub very low (or I just like more bass).

If YPAO set the crossover to 160 Hz, it must be because your speakers do not have sufficient output below that. That's very high, in my opinion, but if you reduce it and your speakers can't fill the gap between 100 Hz and 160 Hz then you have a gap in that range in the sound. That would be a bad thing.

EDIT: The specs for the Canton Movie 70 claim a frequency response of 120 Hz - 25 KHz for the satellite speakers. I'm not sure whether the 120 Hz is the -3 dB point or something else. It seems that YPAO isn't happy that the speakers can reproduce frequencies below 160 Hz, though. I definitely wouldn't set the crossover to 100 Hz, because at the least you'll have a gap from 100 Hz to 120 Hz. I suspect the gap is even larger, though. I'm not sure I'd go below 140 Hz for the crossover.

2. Ideally, it should seem like dialog is coming from the TV screen where the people are speaking. Dialog lift can be used to make up for the fact that most center channels are below the TV. I think the lift works better if you have presence speakers. In any case, do what you feel sounds best.

3. Choose the YPAO curve that you like best. For the Flat curve, YPAO attempts to make the response of your system flat across the full spectrum, thus reproducing sound as closely as possible to how it was mixed. Natural rolls of the highs a bit, which some people find harsh. Natural may be a bit of a warmer sound. Pick the one you like.

4. I like to control the sub from the AVR settings. However, I know that I want to run the sub a little hot, so I turned up the sub before running YPAO so that YPAO would set it to -4 dB or so. Then I turned it up to somewhere around 0 dB to +1 dB in the AVR.

5. Does your TV upscale? Most newer HDTVs do. Mine does, and I compared it to the AVR's upscaling. I found that the TV did a slightly better job, so I don't have the AVR do it. Also, I don't like how the AVR menu gets laggy when it's processing video (and I think there are some things you can't do, I don't remember all the details).

6. You can see the levels for Flat, Front, and Natural, too. You can even change them if you want. I have a 773, and that's the case for me. Did you copy anything into Manual (like Flat or Natural)? If not, where did the values in the Manual setup come from? My guess is that they are meaningless (I'm also guessing that +184.5 is a typo). You can start by copying one of the YPAO curves like Flat or Natural into Manual, and adjusting it to suit you (if you aren't happy with the YPAO curves as they are).
ThinkRationally is offline  
post #3159 of 3486 Old 01-29-2014, 01:30 PM
kli
Member
 
kli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Hm, I'll verify again, but I swear when I checked the settings last night that it was set to control everything together rather than individually. I'll take a look again tonight.

I'm running Windows 8.1. I still have my old receiver in the AV cabinet as a "backup" until I know everything is working correctly, so i'll also switch it back over to the old one and see if the popping is there. That should tell me if its an issue with the sub/sub connection or not. Since it didn't start until I switched to the new receiver, it probably is a configuration/receiver issue.

I'll also check out whether there is something with the HDMI audio out. I initially had tried to output via HDMI and I found that there was a lot of static via HDMI. I didn't have much time to troubleshoot at the time so I switched back to the SPDIF connection. Since the 2 outputs have 2 different sets of chips/drivers (HDMI = NVIDIA, SPDIF = REALTEK) its entirely possible that it could be a configuration conflict somewhere.

I also saw NVIDIA has updated drivers out, so I'll have to look into whether or not that may make a difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

It's winter.. I'm out on a limb, the air is dry...static electricity as well as RF/EMI is abundant.

Get down to Radio Shack and drop some love on a Ferrite Choke

I'll swing by Radioshack tonight after work and see if the chokes or the ground isolator loop help.

I did do a quick test last night and swapped back to the old receiver (just for the sub). It worked perfectly fine. Bass was much louder and clearly defined, and no "pops" when skipping or turning the receiver on or off. Switched back to the Yamaha and back to the same issues. That leads me to believe that its more of an issue with the Yamaha receiver and the way its configured and/or possibly the sub connection on the receiver.

Incidentally, i haven't turned up the Bass much to get more output due to the POP, so I hope that if i can resolve that issue, i can get the bass from the sub back up to appreciable levels.

Will also look into the new NVIDIA drivers, although as I mentioned, based on the test I did with the old one, I would think its more on the receiver side than anything else. I'm open to any other thoughts though.
kli is offline  
post #3160 of 3486 Old 01-29-2014, 03:08 PM
Advanced Member
 
Woobieizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Good Ole' Copper Fan
Posts: 847
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by kli View Post

Thanks JK -

I'll see if I can pick one up and see if it helps. I'm actually connecting a PC since I use Media Center as my primary media device.

Any ideas though if this is an issue with the receiver? The only thing I changed in my setup was the receiver.

My previous receiver was an old Panasonic SA-XR25. My connections basically went from:

PC (video) => RGB => TV
PC (audio) => SPDIF => Receiver

To:

PC (video) => HDMI => Receiver => HDMI => TV
PC (audio) => SPDIF => Receiver (I haven't changed the audio to pass via the HDMI because I'm still working out a driver issue.)

Did you ever do this in your NVIDIA Applet when your Yamaha was connected? (Turn Off Audio)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kli View Post


I'll swing by Radioshack tonight after work and see if the chokes or the ground isolator loop help.
Readers Digest! (Click to show)
I did do a quick test last night and swapped back to the old receiver (just for the sub). It worked perfectly fine. Bass was much louder and clearly defined, and no "pops" when skipping or turning the receiver on or off. Switched back to the Yamaha and back to the same issues. That leads me to believe that its more of an issue with the Yamaha receiver and the way its configured and/or possibly the sub connection on the receiver.

Incidentally, i haven't turned up the Bass much to get more output due to the POP, so I hope that if i can resolve that issue, i can get the bass from the sub back up to appreciable levels.

Will also look into the new NVIDIA drivers, although as I mentioned, based on the test I did with the old one, I would think its more on the receiver side than anything else
. I'm open to any other thoughts though.

Clarification time:
PC (video) => RGB => TV
PC (audio) => SPDIF => Receiver

Your back on the Panny SPDIF and to TV via RGB negating the HDMI from PC to anything altogether Correct?
:
That would rule out any misconfiguration of the HDMI NVIDIA Panel Config: rendering the HDMI handshake from to Yamaha Amp as "nothing learned".

It's time to ask.. what is your GPU? Is it capable to send audio over HDMI? Speccy can help

If you've done a step different, appoligies..
Woobieizer is offline  
post #3161 of 3486 Old 01-29-2014, 04:00 PM
kli
Member
 
kli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

Did you ever do this in your NVIDIA Applet when your Yamaha was connected? (Turn Off Audio)

Yep, I verified that this is turned off so the audio from the PC is via the SPDIF (REALTEK Driver)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer 
Clarification time:
PC (video) => RGB => TV
PC (audio) => SPDIF => Receiver

Your back on the Panny SPDIF and to TV via RGB negating the HDMI from PC to anything altogether Correct?
:
That would rule out any misconfiguration of the HDMI NVIDIA Panel Config: rendering the HDMI handshake from to Yamaha Amp as "nothing learned".

It's time to ask.. what is your GPU? Is it capable to send audio over HDMI? Speccy can help

If you've done a step different, appoligies..

Actually the PC is currently cloning the video out to both RGB (directly to TV) and HDMI (through the receiver and then to TV), mostly because I was trying to compare the picture between the 2 video inputs.
When I first setup the 673, I tried to output the audio via HDMI as well and encountered static from all the speakers (I haven't verified to make sure there's not interference from recording inputs). I disabled the HDMI audio in the NVIDA control panel and then went back to using just the SPDIF digital out.

So as of right now, it should only be outputting audio via the SPDIF. What I could also try is just disconnecting the HDMI altogether and then see if just an RGB/SPDIF connection still experiences the same pop.

Its an onboard video Nvidia 9300 on a Asus P5N7A-VM board.
kli is offline  
post #3162 of 3486 Old 01-29-2014, 04:20 PM
Member
 
Cla55clown's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Durham, North Carolina
Posts: 156
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 21
How does the 673 DAC handle DSD data from a Sony BDP? I hope it can decode it as I have no other way to listen to my SACDs (other than the regular CD layer).
Cla55clown is offline  
post #3163 of 3486 Old 01-29-2014, 05:34 PM
Advanced Member
 
Woobieizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Good Ole' Copper Fan
Posts: 847
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by kli View Post

Yep, I verified that this is turned off so the audio from the PC is via the SPDIF (REALTEK Driver)
Actually the PC is currently cloning the video out to both RGB (directly to TV) and HDMI (through the receiver and then to TV), mostly because I was trying to compare the picture between the 2 video inputs.
When I first setup the 673, I tried to output the audio via HDMI as well and encountered static from all the speakers (I haven't verified to make sure there's not interference from recording inputs). I disabled the HDMI audio in the NVIDA control panel and then went back to using just the SPDIF digital out.

So as of right now, it should only be outputting audio via the SPDIF. What I could also try is just disconnecting the HDMI altogether and then see if just an RGB/SPDIF connection still experiences the same pop. Exactly

Its an onboard video Nvidia 9300 on a Asus P5N7A-VM board.

Is this the item?


Does the NVIDIA keep the HDMI set OFF. There is a reason I am asking this.. Try this .. remembering to disconnect the SPDIF from the back of the PC, thus creating only one possible path for audio.
toggle that puppy on and test your sound, Make Note and proceed to Toggle it OFF and test sound. Any difference? Meaning did you loose the static and especially pop? Did you even get sound?

If you read my post linked to the PM picture I sent.. in the "Any hacks to get A/V over HDMI?", you would have noticed we share a similar problem with the POP and static.. I had this situation from the same PC connected to two different HDTV and two different Amps. I was pulling my hair out. You see.. i knew my video card was unable to send audio via HDMI.. but the NVIDIA control applet did not care, would not, and did not play nice.. I landed on this site after considerable Google-Fu fiddled with this sites suggested Reg hacks *read up and down* but ended up with the hard wired fix.

I'm just throwing all this at you to have all the ingredients. Your keen ability to reason troubleshot and successfully resolve your issue is nigh.
Woobieizer is offline  
post #3164 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 12:14 AM
kli
Member
 
kli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

Is this the item?

Yup, thats the one.


Quote:
Does the NVIDIA keep the HDMI set OFF. There is a reason I am asking this.. Try this .. remembering to disconnect the SPDIF from the back of the PC, thus creating only one possible path for audio.
toggle that puppy on and test your sound, Make Note and proceed to Toggle it OFF and test sound. Any difference? Meaning did you loose the static and especially pop? Did you even get sound?

It took a little bit of playing around with and an update of the drivers, but I am now running sound over the HDMI cable as well. Unfortunately, the pop is still there although the static is gone.
Quote:
If you read my post linked to the PM picture I sent.. in the "Any hacks to get A/V over HDMI?", you would have noticed we share a similar problem with the POP and static.. I had this situation from the same PC connected to two different HDTV and two different Amps. I was pulling my hair out. You see.. i knew my video card was unable to send audio via HDMI.. but the NVIDIA control applet did not care, would not, and did not play nice.. I landed on this site after considerable Google-Fu fiddled with this sites suggested Reg hacks *read up and down* but ended up with the hard wired fix.

I'm just throwing all this at you to have all the ingredients. Your keen ability to reason troubleshot and successfully resolve your issue is nigh.

I guess I'm a little luckier in the sense that HDMI is working by "default" over HDMI. Unfortunately I'm unluckier in the sense that the POP is still there. I also noticed something else that was odd by accident -
I mentioned how I tested the old receiver connection and everything seemed fine with the sub so I switched back over to the 673. However, when I got home today, I accidentally powered on the old receiver and immediately heard a pop from the sub - except that there is no audio connection whatsoever. Actually nothing was connected to the old receiver except for the power cable. I decided to disconnect the receiver from the powerstrip as well thinking maybe there's some sort of interference going on but no dice. POP still occurs on the 673.

I also picked up the chokes and a ground loop isolator. Neither of those made a difference. I tried moving the power cables to "filtered" positions on the power strip (conditioner) everything is connected to and that didn't make a difference either. One thing I forgot to try though is just the pure RGB/SPDIF connection with no hdmi. I'll have to test that tomorrow as I got home late tonight from work and didn't have much energy to do much troubleshooting.
kli is offline  
post #3165 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 01:01 AM
Advanced Member
 
Woobieizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Good Ole' Copper Fan
Posts: 847
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by kli View Post

Yup, thats the one.


It took a little bit of playing around with and an update of the drivers, but I am now running sound over the HDMI cable as well. Unfortunately, the pop is still there although the static is gone.
Condensing: Questions in Red! (Click to show)
I guess I'm a little luckier in the sense that HDMI is working by "default" over HDMI. Unfortunately I'm unluckier in the sense that the POP is still there. I also noticed something else that was odd by accident -
I mentioned how I tested the old receiver connection and everything seemed fine with the sub so I switched back over to the 673. However, when I got home today, I accidentally powered on the old receiver and immediately heard a pop from the sub - except that there is no audio connection whatsoever. Actually nothing was connected to the old receiver except for the power cable.and the sub? or that the old reciever was just on the same power strip and the sub was connected to the Yam but the Yam was off? I decided to disconnect the receiver from the powerstrip as well thinking maybe there's some sort of interference going on but no dice. POP still occurs on the 673.So the sub pops with the originally described problem as well as when Old Amp is powered w/ nothing but power draw? how ODD .. but how revealing.. yummy.. lol

I also picked up the chokes and a ground loop isolator. Neither of those made a difference. I tried moving the power cables to "filtered" positions on the power strip (conditioner) everything is connected to and that didn't make a difference either. One thing I forgot to try though is just the pure RGB/SPDIF connection with no hdmi. I'll have to test that tomorrow as I got home late tonight from work and
didn't have much energy to do much troubleshooting.

tongue.gif You're rocking out the troubleshooting.. thats a lot of work.. I KNOW.. Good Job kli.. you've got sound over HDMI and we'll get this sorted.. where did you put the chokes? What else is connected to the Yam amp?
Woobieizer is offline  
post #3166 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 01:49 AM
Advanced Member
 
Woobieizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Good Ole' Copper Fan
Posts: 847
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked: 67
OK money bags wink.gif time to read up on Tesla's post here:

Borrow one of these from Lowes, and test your outlets. We're concentrating on the Ground problem only.


As you stated you did the power strip test.. but if you can, trace your outlets to the breaker box and make sure your Sub gets connected to an oulet that is correctly grounded and not on the same breaker as the AMP.. then test...

See ya after work. biggrin.gif
Woobieizer is offline  
post #3167 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 03:29 AM
Member
 
DecLinE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 43
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

I can try to answer some of these.

1. I'm surprised it didn't set the subwoofer distance a bit further than it actually is to account for delay within the subwoofer. In any case, I would take what YPAO set for distance even if it's further than the sub actually is. As for the level, you can adjust it up if you like more powerful bass. My feeling is that YPAO sets the sub very low (or I just like more bass).

If YPAO set the crossover to 160 Hz, it must be because your speakers do not have sufficient output below that. That's very high, in my opinion, but if you reduce it and your speakers can't fill the gap between 100 Hz and 160 Hz then you have a gap in that range in the sound. That would be a bad thing.

EDIT: The specs for the Canton Movie 70 claim a frequency response of 120 Hz - 25 KHz for the satellite speakers. I'm not sure whether the 120 Hz is the -3 dB point or something else. It seems that YPAO isn't happy that the speakers can reproduce frequencies below 160 Hz, though. I definitely wouldn't set the crossover to 100 Hz, because at the least you'll have a gap from 100 Hz to 120 Hz. I suspect the gap is even larger, though. I'm not sure I'd go below 140 Hz for the crossover.

2. Ideally, it should seem like dialog is coming from the TV screen where the people are speaking. Dialog lift can be used to make up for the fact that most center channels are below the TV. I think the lift works better if you have presence speakers. In any case, do what you feel sounds best.

3. Choose the YPAO curve that you like best. For the Flat curve, YPAO attempts to make the response of your system flat across the full spectrum, thus reproducing sound as closely as possible to how it was mixed. Natural rolls of the highs a bit, which some people find harsh. Natural may be a bit of a warmer sound. Pick the one you like.

4. I like to control the sub from the AVR settings. However, I know that I want to run the sub a little hot, so I turned up the sub before running YPAO so that YPAO would set it to -4 dB or so. Then I turned it up to somewhere around 0 dB to +1 dB in the AVR.

5. Does your TV upscale? Most newer HDTVs do. Mine does, and I compared it to the AVR's upscaling. I found that the TV did a slightly better job, so I don't have the AVR do it. Also, I don't like how the AVR menu gets laggy when it's processing video (and I think there are some things you can't do, I don't remember all the details).

6. You can see the levels for Flat, Front, and Natural, too. You can even change them if you want. I have a 773, and that's the case for me. Did you copy anything into Manual (like Flat or Natural)? If not, where did the values in the Manual setup come from? My guess is that they are meaningless (I'm also guessing that +184.5 is a typo). You can start by copying one of the YPAO curves like Flat or Natural into Manual, and adjusting it to suit you (if you aren't happy with the YPAO curves as they are).

First of all, thank you very much for your comprehensive answer. smile.gif

1. I don't understand what you mean with "I'm not sure whether the 120 Hz is the -3 dB point or something else". Could you as well explain me better the "gap" concept of my speakers, please? Then, in the speakers configuration menu, I can switch between 120Hz, 160Hz and 200Hz. Before your answer, it was set to 100Hz and now I set it to 120Hz. Actually the subwoofer is now more present than before, I feel it a little more complete. So which frequence you'd suggest between 120Hz, 160Hz and 200Hz?

2. I set it to 2 and now dialogues come exactly from my TV...no more from the central speaker, which is better for me!

5. My TV is a Sony NX710 46''. I think it upscales signals, but I'm not so sure. But I realized that watching a movie in 576p (for example), if I go into the elaboration video menu, it is automatically set to 1080P. This could mean that the television upscales my signal, right?

6. No, I didn't copy anything into "Manual". In fact those values are just examples, I think. My doubt is another, in fact I was wrong to explain! I made YPAO calibration, and when I choose "FLAT" (my current setting) and go into the sub menu, I see those values even if the distances and levels are the same between left and right side (FL and FR are both set to +1.0dB, SL and SR are both set to +3.0dB). The values are:

FL: 198.4Hz - Q 1.260 - Gain: +2.5dB
FR: 157.5Hz - Q 1.260 - Gain: +2.5dB
SL: 157.5Hz - Q 2.520 - Gain: +6.0dB
SR: 198.4Hz - Q 2.520 - Gain: +6.0dB
DecLinE is offline  
post #3168 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 04:13 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bond 007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 12,066
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Liked: 838
There is nothing wrong with the values for #6.

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
Bond 007 is online now  
post #3169 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 05:55 AM
Senior Member
 
ThinkRationally's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 301
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by DecLinE View Post

First of all, thank you very much for your comprehensive answer. smile.gif

1. I don't understand what you mean with "I'm not sure whether the 120 Hz is the -3 dB point or something else". Could you as well explain me better the "gap" concept of my speakers, please? Then, in the speakers configuration menu, I can switch between 120Hz, 160Hz and 200Hz. Before your answer, it was set to 100Hz and now I set it to 120Hz. Actually the subwoofer is now more present than before, I feel it a little more complete. So which frequence you'd suggest between 120Hz, 160Hz and 200Hz?

2. I set it to 2 and now dialogues come exactly from my TV...no more from the central speaker, which is better for me!

5. My TV is a Sony NX710 46''. I think it upscales signals, but I'm not so sure. But I realized that watching a movie in 576p (for example), if I go into the elaboration video menu, it is automatically set to 1080P. This could mean that the television upscales my signal, right?

6. No, I didn't copy anything into "Manual". In fact those values are just examples, I think. My doubt is another, in fact I was wrong to explain! I made YPAO calibration, and when I choose "FLAT" (my current setting) and go into the sub menu, I see those values even if the distances and levels are the same between left and right side (FL and FR are both set to +1.0dB, SL and SR are both set to +3.0dB). The values are:

FL: 198.4Hz - Q 1.260 - Gain: +2.5dB
FR: 157.5Hz - Q 1.260 - Gain: +2.5dB
SL: 157.5Hz - Q 2.520 - Gain: +6.0dB
SR: 198.4Hz - Q 2.520 - Gain: +6.0dB

1. I looked up the specs for your speakers and they gave a frequency response of 120 Hz to 25,000 Hz, but they didn't give any more information. Small speakers can't reproduce lower frequencies, so they have less and less output below a certain point. Generally, the frequency where the output drops by 3 dB is considered the lower limit of acceptable output. What I don't know is whether that's what the 120 Hz spec represents or not. I'm guessing there's some marketing involved, and that the usable output drops off at a higher frequency than 120 Hz--but this is only a guess.

If YPAO set your crossover at 160 Hz, that means that YPAO doesn't think your speakers can reproduce frequencies down to the next crossover option, which is 120Hz. If the only options are 120 Hz and 160 Hz it's your call on what to choose, but be aware that you may have a response gap. The only way to know for sure, though, is to measure the output and see if there's a dip in response (and I'd spend the money on better speakers before the measuring equipment).

By a gap, I mean a range of frequencies that no speakers in your system are reproducing. For example, if your speakers can only reproduce frequencies down to 140 Hz, and your sub crossover is set to 100Hz, then nothing is producing frequencies between 100 and 140 Hz (there will be some sound, likely--it will just be much lower). This is why you need to smoothly integrate your sub with your speakers.

2. Great!

5. I think your TV upscales, yes. Mine does, but it's generally not called "upscaling" in the menus. Each manufacturer has some brand named features that control this. Sometimes you really have to read up on the TV to find out these things. I'm only guessing, but I'd say your TV does upscale. You can compare the TV to the AVR. Put in a DVD (not a blue-ray, and make sure your player isn't doing the upscaling or you won't be comparing anything) and compare the same scene with the AVR video processing turned off and turned on and see what looks best. When it's off, assume that your TV is doing the upscaling to 1080p. If you can't tell the difference, leave the AVR on direct.

6. Those values are your PEQ settings (PEQ can be complicated, so if you want to know more you should research and read up on it). The acoustics of your room will likely cause differences between the speakers when it comes to these settings, even if the speakers are the same distance from the listening position. YPAO is trying to correct for the way sound bounces around the room.

Hope this helps.
ThinkRationally is offline  
post #3170 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 07:50 AM
Member
 
DecLinE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 43
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

1. I looked up the specs for your speakers and they gave a frequency response of 120 Hz to 25,000 Hz, but they didn't give any more information. Small speakers can't reproduce lower frequencies, so they have less and less output below a certain point. Generally, the frequency where the output drops by 3 dB is considered the lower limit of acceptable output. What I don't know is whether that's what the 120 Hz spec represents or not. I'm guessing there's some marketing involved, and that the usable output drops off at a higher frequency than 120 Hz--but this is only a guess.

If YPAO set your crossover at 160 Hz, that means that YPAO doesn't think your speakers can reproduce frequencies down to the next crossover option, which is 120Hz. If the only options are 120 Hz and 160 Hz it's your call on what to choose, but be aware that you may have a response gap. The only way to know for sure, though, is to measure the output and see if there's a dip in response (and I'd spend the money on better speakers before the measuring equipment).

By a gap, I mean a range of frequencies that no speakers in your system are reproducing. For example, if your speakers can only reproduce frequencies down to 140 Hz, and your sub crossover is set to 100Hz, then nothing is producing frequencies between 100 and 140 Hz (there will be some sound, likely--it will just be much lower). This is why you need to smoothly integrate your sub with your speakers.

2. Great!

5. I think your TV upscales, yes. Mine does, but it's generally not called "upscaling" in the menus. Each manufacturer has some brand named features that control this. Sometimes you really have to read up on the TV to find out these things. I'm only guessing, but I'd say your TV does upscale. You can compare the TV to the AVR. Put in a DVD (not a blue-ray, and make sure your player isn't doing the upscaling or you won't be comparing anything) and compare the same scene with the AVR video processing turned off and turned on and see what looks best. When it's off, assume that your TV is doing the upscaling to 1080p. If you can't tell the difference, leave the AVR on direct.

6. Those values are your PEQ settings (PEQ can be complicated, so if you want to know more you should research and read up on it). The acoustics of your room will likely cause differences between the speakers when it comes to these settings, even if the speakers are the same distance from the listening position. YPAO is trying to correct for the way sound bounces around the room.

Hope this helps.

Thank you again for your patience and your exhaustive answers... wink.gif

1. So, if I understand correctly your answer, if my speakers really could reproduce frequencies up to 120 Hz (as per instructions), I do well setting crossover to 120Hz, is it right? But since according to you output drops off at a higher frequency than 120 Hz, it would be better to set my crossover to values ​​higher than 120Hz, right?! The only options are 120Hz and 160Hz, so maybe it's better 160Hz to be safer...what you think?
DecLinE is offline  
post #3171 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 09:09 AM
Senior Member
 
ThinkRationally's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 301
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by DecLinE View Post

Thank you again for your patience and your exhaustive answers... wink.gif

1. So, if I understand correctly your answer, if my speakers really could reproduce frequencies up to 120 Hz (as per instructions), I do well setting crossover to 120Hz, is it right? But since according to you output drops off at a higher frequency than 120 Hz, it would be better to set my crossover to values ​​higher than 120Hz, right?! The only options are 120Hz and 160Hz, so maybe it's better 160Hz to be safer...what you think?

Close, but you have it reversed the way you said it. The question is how whether your speakers can produce sound DOWN to 120 Hz, not up to 120 HZ. Your speakers will be responsible for frequencies higher than the crossover setting, and the subwoofer will be responsible for frequencies lower than the crossover.

The question to figure out is what is the lowest frequency your speakers can reliably produce. Honestly, I can't tell you from here what that is. I can't find detailed enough specs on your speakers. Have you checked your speaker documentation for a suggested crossover setting?

If YPAO automatically set the crossover to 160 Hz, that means it didn't think your speakers could extend down to 120 Hz, which is the next option. It's unfortunate there are no settings between 120 and 160, because I suspect that's where it needs to be. 160 Hz for a crossover is quite high. Nothing below that will be in stereo, and part of the human vocal range will be coming from your subwoofer.

I'm not sure what to recommend here. I suspect that the crossover should be something like 130 or 140 Hz, but you don't have that option. You can try 120 Hz and maybe play some test tones (you can search for mp3 test tones and download some). Play 100 Hz, 110 Hz, 120 Hz, 125 Hz, 130 Hz, 140 Hz, etc. If any of them are significantly quieter than the rest just above the crossover, that might indicate a gap in the sound. If there's a gap you may not notice it, or it may not bother you--that's up to you.

That's all I've got for you, aside from suggesting new and bigger speakers and sub smile.gif That way you could set the crossover at 100 Hz or lower and have no gaps.
ThinkRationally is offline  
post #3172 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 10:41 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bond 007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 12,066
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Liked: 838
Quote:
Originally Posted by DecLinE View Post

Thank you again for your patience and your exhaustive answers... wink.gif

1. So, if I understand correctly your answer, if my speakers really could reproduce frequencies up to 120 Hz (as per instructions), I do well setting crossover to 120Hz, is it right? But since according to you output drops off at a higher frequency than 120 Hz, it would be better to set my crossover to values ​​higher than 120Hz, right?! The only options are 120Hz and 160Hz, so maybe it's better 160Hz to be safer...what you think?
Try 120 and 160 and keep it where it sounds best.

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
Bond 007 is online now  
post #3173 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 07:37 PM
kli
Member
 
kli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kli 
I also noticed something else that was odd by accident -
I mentioned how I tested the old receiver connection and everything seemed fine with the sub so I switched back over to the 673. However, when I got home today, I accidentally powered on the old receiver and immediately heard a pop from the sub - except that there is no audio connection whatsoever. Actually nothing was connected to the old receiver except for the power cable.
and the sub? or that the old reciever was just on the same power strip and the sub was connected to the Yam but the Yam was off?

the latter. the sub was connected to the 673 and it was powered off when I turned on the old receiver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kli 
I decided to disconnect the receiver from the powerstrip as well thinking maybe there's some sort of interference going on but no dice. POP still occurs on the 673.
So the sub pops with the originally described problem as well as when Old Amp is powered w/ nothing but power draw? how ODD .. but how revealing.. yummy.. lol

yup that's correct. when i powered it on with nothing connected to it, the sub popped. haha i don't know about yummy. more like bleh. at least there's more info to work with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kli 
I also picked up the chokes and a ground loop isolator. Neither of those made a difference. I tried moving the power cables to "filtered" positions on the power strip (conditioner) everything is connected to and that didn't make a difference either. One thing I forgot to try though is just the pure RGB/SPDIF connection with no hdmi. I'll have to test that tomorrow as I got home late tonight from work and
didn't have much energy to do much troubleshooting.
You're rocking out the troubleshooting.. thats a lot of work.. I KNOW.. Good Job kli.. you've got sound over HDMI and we'll get this sorted.. where did you put the chokes? What else is connected to the Yam amp?

i put a choke at the end of the sub cable at the sub end.
i only have a xbox 360 connected to it currently via component/spdif.
kli is offline  
post #3174 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 07:54 PM
kli
Member
 
kli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

OK money bags wink.gif time to read up on Tesla's post here:

Borrow one of these from Lowes, and test your outlets. We're concentrating on the Ground problem only.


As you stated you did the power strip test.. but if you can, trace your outlets to the breaker box and make sure your Sub gets connected to an oulet that is correctly grounded and not on the same breaker as the AMP.. then test...

See ya after work. biggrin.gif

haha i wish all that work meant that i was a money bags. FTE means no overtime for me.
and no need to borrow the outlet tester, i have one from when i replaced all the outlets in my house years ago. i know everything worked then, but i double checked and verified that the outlets are properly grounded.

i did connect the sub to a separate circuit as well and it still had the same pop. i also went back and did the test i forgot and made sure all the hdmi connections were disconnected and only had rgb/spdif. the pop was still there.

hm so "TESLA's" theory is that the internal protection circuit of the 673 (in my case) could be interfering with the external protection circuit of my power strip (which happens to be a older belking pureav p40L power conditioner). i will test that in a bit and see if removing it from the power conditioner affects anything.
kli is offline  
post #3175 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 07:59 PM
Advanced Member
 
Woobieizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Good Ole' Copper Fan
Posts: 847
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by kli View Post

haha i wish all that work meant that i was a money bags. FTE means no overtime for me.
and no need to borrow the outlet tester, i have one from when i replaced all the outlets in my house years ago. i know everything worked then, but i double checked and verified that the outlets are properly grounded.

i did connect the sub to a separate circuit as well and it still had the same pop. i also went back and did the test i forgot and made sure all the hdmi connections were disconnected and only had rgb/spdif. the pop was still there.

hm so "TESLA's" theory is that the internal protection circuit of the 673 (in my case) could be interfering with the external protection circuit of my power strip (which happens to be a older belking pureav p40L power conditioner). i will test that in a bit and see if removing it from the power conditioner affects anything.

Other way around.. that the sub's internal protection system is messing with Sasquatch.
Woobieizer is offline  
post #3176 of 3486 Old 01-30-2014, 09:04 PM
kli
Member
 
kli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

Other way around.. that the sub's internal protection system is messing with Sasquatch.

By Sasquatch are you referring to the Yamaha or the power conditioner? If it's the latter then I would have expected the issue to have been present with the old receiver as well so I'll assume you meant the receiver.
kli is offline  
post #3177 of 3486 Old 01-31-2014, 02:28 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bond 007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 12,066
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Liked: 838
Quote:
Originally Posted by kli View Post

By Sasquatch are you referring to the Yamaha or the power conditioner? If it's the latter then I would have expected the issue to have been present with the old receiver as well so I'll assume you meant the receiver.
Have you tried plugging the sub into an outlet on the other end of the room? Or a different room? I've heard of people with a similar problem that had to use an extension cord to power the sub from an outlet in a different room.
The power conditioner is most likely not helping anything. If it didnt fix the problem return it and get your money back.
The sub may be damaged by now too as long as youve been messing with this problem. Do you have another sub you can try?

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
Bond 007 is online now  
post #3178 of 3486 Old 01-31-2014, 03:49 AM
Member
 
DecLinE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 43
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

Close, but you have it reversed the way you said it. The question is how whether your speakers can produce sound DOWN to 120 Hz, not up to 120 HZ. Your speakers will be responsible for frequencies higher than the crossover setting, and the subwoofer will be responsible for frequencies lower than the crossover.

The question to figure out is what is the lowest frequency your speakers can reliably produce. Honestly, I can't tell you from here what that is. I can't find detailed enough specs on your speakers. Have you checked your speaker documentation for a suggested crossover setting?

If YPAO automatically set the crossover to 160 Hz, that means it didn't think your speakers could extend down to 120 Hz, which is the next option. It's unfortunate there are no settings between 120 and 160, because I suspect that's where it needs to be. 160 Hz for a crossover is quite high. Nothing below that will be in stereo, and part of the human vocal range will be coming from your subwoofer.

I'm not sure what to recommend here. I suspect that the crossover should be something like 130 or 140 Hz, but you don't have that option. You can try 120 Hz and maybe play some test tones (you can search for mp3 test tones and download some). Play 100 Hz, 110 Hz, 120 Hz, 125 Hz, 130 Hz, 140 Hz, etc. If any of them are significantly quieter than the rest just above the crossover, that might indicate a gap in the sound. If there's a gap you may not notice it, or it may not bother you--that's up to you.

That's all I've got for you, aside from suggesting new and bigger speakers and sub smile.gif That way you could set the crossover at 100 Hz or lower and have no gaps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Try 120 and 160 and keep it where it sounds best.

Thank you to you all for your advices!
I really don't know why my Yamaha RX-V675 lets me switch only between 120 and 160Hz. However, I watched a 15-minute movie repeatedly swapping from 120Hz to 160Hz and vice versa, but honestly I haven't noticed any difference. smile.gif
DecLinE is offline  
post #3179 of 3486 Old 01-31-2014, 03:52 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bond 007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 12,066
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Liked: 838
Quote:
Originally Posted by DecLinE View Post


Thank you to you all for your advices!
I really don't know why my Yamaha RX-V675 lets me switch only between 120 and 160Hz. However, I watched a 15-minute movie repeatedly swapping from 120Hz to 160Hz and vice versa, but honestly I haven't noticed any difference. smile.gif
Thats what I expected. No reason to be real concerned over it then.

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
Bond 007 is online now  
post #3180 of 3486 Old 01-31-2014, 07:54 AM
kli
Member
 
kli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Have you tried plugging the sub into an outlet on the other end of the room? Or a different room? I've heard of people with a similar problem that had to use an extension cord to power the sub from an outlet in a different room.
The power conditioner is most likely not helping anything. If it didnt fix the problem return it and get your money back.
The sub may be damaged by now too as long as youve been messing with this problem. Do you have another sub you can try?

I've had the power conditioner/surge suppressor for almost as long as I've had the speakers and old receiver, so that shouldn't have been the main cause of pop.

I tried connecting the sub on a different circuit last night while still connected to the receiver and had the same popping.

Connecting it to the old receiver it works just fine and with no popping.

Unfortunately I don't have another sub to test out with this.
kli is offline  
Reply Receivers, Amps, and Processors

Tags
Yamaha Rx V673 Receiver
Gear in this thread - V673 by PriceGrabber.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off