Marantz NR1403 and NR1603 Slim Line Receiver Thread - Page 28 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #811 of 831 Old 12-28-2014, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by solobaric View Post
Will give it a shot. Will the optical cable automatically be recognized by the marantz/Ps3 or is there a setting I need to look for? Also would a better quality or different hdmi cable possibly make a difference?

Yes, you'll have to go to the settings in the receiver for optical input and PS3 to output via optical. I recommend Monoprice's RedMere ultra slim high performance HDMI cables.
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post #812 of 831 Old 12-28-2014, 09:24 PM
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Hey all. Looking for some advice as I'm in the market for a new AVR. I had a very odd scenario which led me to my search. I had recently finished my home theater. When introducing the final component (xfinity box) I had a surge thru the cable line. This caused the entire HDMI board on my Sony AVR to die and in turn spread to my other components. So the hdmi boards on my ps4, Xbox one and projector all need to be replaced. Only the projector is under warranty. The moral is: never trust anything Xfinity/Comcast. They came out and looked at everything and won't reimburse me.

So because my Sony 5.2 AVR cost me $200 and isn't worth sending in to fix being out of warranty, I was looking at the 5.1 Marantz. Here's my hesitation, I noticed the Marantz is rated at 50w per channel. My Sony was rated at 100 per channel. Now, I'm aware that ratings are mostly BS, but I was happy with the way the Sony pushed my Klipsch reference speakers. Marantz owners, will this receiver be enough to push my system for movies? I really don't listen to music in the HT, so my concern is specifically in pushing big and accurate sound for films. Thanks
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post #813 of 831 Old 12-29-2014, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solobaric View Post
Will give it a shot. Will the optical cable automatically be recognized by the marantz/Ps3 or is there a setting I need to look for? Also would a better quality or different hdmi cable possibly make a difference?
You will have to make a sound setting change on the PS3 and on the AVR ensure the OPT IN is assigned to the same source name used for the PS3 (eg. BDP) and set the INPUT MODE setting for that source to "Digital."

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post #814 of 831 Old 12-29-2014, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argyle Shepard View Post
Hey all. Looking for some advice as I'm in the market for a new AVR. I had a very odd scenario which led me to my search. I had recently finished my home theater. When introducing the final component (xfinity box) I had a surge thru the cable line. This caused the entire HDMI board on my Sony AVR to die and in turn spread to my other components. So the hdmi boards on my ps4, Xbox one and projector all need to be replaced. Only the projector is under warranty. The moral is: never trust anything Xfinity/Comcast. They came out and looked at everything and won't reimburse me.

So because my Sony 5.2 AVR cost me $200 and isn't worth sending in to fix being out of warranty, I was looking at the 5.1 Marantz. Here's my hesitation, I noticed the Marantz is rated at 50w per channel. My Sony was rated at 100 per channel. Now, I'm aware that ratings are mostly BS, but I was happy with the way the Sony pushed my Klipsch reference speakers. Marantz owners, will this receiver be enough to push my system for movies? I really don't listen to music in the HT, so my concern is specifically in pushing big and accurate sound for films. Thanks
Klipsch speakers are very efficient, such that on average are only drawing 1-2W/CH, so yes, 50W will be more than sufficient.

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post #815 of 831 Old 01-01-2015, 03:29 PM
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Headphones w/NR1403

I need to replace an old Denon amp which allows me to connect my wireless headphones into the headphone jack full-time. This does not affect the speaker outputs. It also provides the ability to switch to headphones only when I need to go into quiet mode. It seems from the manual that the NR1403 does not allow the heaphones and speakers to function at the same time. Can someone please verify this?
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post #816 of 831 Old 01-01-2015, 03:50 PM
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^^
Confirmed. This is true for all D&M models going back at least 7 years. You would need to connect to the FL/FR pre-outs to keep the surround speakers powered on.

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post #817 of 831 Old 01-01-2015, 05:22 PM
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Thanks for the confirmation. Unfortunately connecting headphones to the FL/FR pre-outs will not get the center channel (dialog) mix for real surround sources.
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post #818 of 831 Old 01-01-2015, 05:58 PM
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^^
With the 1603, the better option would be to connect a RCA cable from the source to the AVR in addition to HDMI and connect wireless headphone amp to the Zone 2 pre-outs. As there are no Zone 2 pre-outs on the 1403, you could set sound mode to STEREO and at least still have FL/FR speakers active.

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post #819 of 831 Old 01-02-2015, 07:19 PM
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Thanks JD. Unfortunately my DVD player does not have analog audio outputs. My other thought would be to take the AC3 output of the TV which is already downmixed to stereo into the NR1603 and use the Zone 2 analog as you suggest for the headphones. It would also be ideal if the mute switch on the remote also muted zone 2 at the same time as zone 1 or could be setup to do so.

All this is assuming that I can get lip-sync to work correctly. Does the programmable delay on the 1403/1603 inputs get passed through to the switched HDMI output or only to the amplified audio outputs?
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post #820 of 831 Old 01-03-2015, 04:54 AM
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^^
If you have the 1403, there are no Zone 2 pre-outs. If by AC3 you are referring to the optical audio output on the TV, there is no optical --> analog down conversion on either the 1403 or 1603. Zones are treated independently so each would have to be muted separately.

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post #821 of 831 Old 01-09-2015, 03:53 PM
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This is a pretty basic setup question but I have been reading the manual and my feeble mind is having trouble. I have purchased a 1403 for friend and I haven't opened it yet as I'm not sure it will handle his setup. He currently has an old analog receiver and an early HDTV with one HDMI input and one component video input. He purchased a Roku and is forced to use the analog. To use the Roku HDMI he would need a new HDTV or an AVR to do it and I suggested the AVR being the cheaper of the options.
I'm having a problem figuring out analog connections. He has a Blu-ray, CBL box and Roku for HDMI (BR,CBL/SAT,MEDIA device). He also has a analog only DVD and VHS. I see that there is only a BLU-RAY and CBL/SAT analog audio in and a BLU-RAY, DVD, CBL/SAT composite video in. Can the system be set up to handle these 2 Inputs? He only listens to sound through the receiver so the TV would only be a video monitor. Connections to the TV from AVR would be HDMI OUT for BR,CBL,ROKU and MONITOR OUT for DVD, VHS. He has a Harmony remote so HDMI control would be off. Can the DVD be connected to the BLU-RAY analog audio/video and be used by setting SOURCE LEVEL to analog vs digital or is it (hopefully) much simpler than that? Can you do something as simple as setting up the AUX to be the analog audio and video inputs labelled as BLU-RAY on the AVR?

His other option is to just get a new smart TV with enough HDMI and analog inputs and feed the sound back to his old analog receiver. My AVR option is less than half the price, if it will work.

I've also noticed JD commenting a few times that the STB/DVR/CBL going through the 1403 is a problem. Is this only when using HDMI control? If it's a problem I'll have to return it because there's only one HDMI input on the TV and that must come from the AVR for my setup to work.
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post #822 of 831 Old 01-09-2015, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNit View Post
This is a pretty basic setup question but I have been reading the manual and my feeble mind is having trouble. I have purchased a 1403 for friend and I haven't opened it yet as I'm not sure it will handle his setup. He currently has an old analog receiver and an early HDTV with one HDMI input and one component video input. He purchased a Roku and is forced to use the analog. To use the Roku HDMI he would need a new HDTV or an AVR to do it and I suggested the AVR being the cheaper of the options.
I'm having a problem figuring out analog connections. He has a Blu-ray, CBL box and Roku for HDMI (BR,CBL/SAT,MEDIA device). He also has a analog only DVD and VHS. I see that there is only a BLU-RAY and CBL/SAT analog audio in and a BLU-RAY, DVD, CBL/SAT composite video in. Can the system be set up to handle these 2 Inputs? He only listens to sound through the receiver so the TV would only be a video monitor. Connections to the TV from AVR would be HDMI OUT for BR,CBL,ROKU and MONITOR OUT for DVD, VHS. He has a Harmony remote so HDMI control would be off. Can the DVD be connected to the BLU-RAY analog audio/video and be used by setting SOURCE LEVEL to analog vs digital or is it (hopefully) much simpler than that? Can you do something as simple as setting up the AUX to be the analog audio and video inputs labelled as BLU-RAY on the AVR?

His other option is to just get a new smart TV with enough HDMI and analog inputs and feed the sound back to his old analog receiver. My AVR option is less than half the price, if it will work.

I've also noticed JD commenting a few times that the STB/DVR/CBL going through the 1403 is a problem. Is this only when using HDMI control? If it's a problem I'll have to return it because there's only one HDMI input on the TV and that must come from the AVR for my setup to work.
I just had a thought. I can connect the DVD to the analog BLU-RAY inputs (L/R/V) and the VHS to the analog CBL/SAT inputs (L/R/V). Then I connect the BLU-RAY to the HDMI DVD input and the CBL/SAT to the HDMI GAME input. The ROKU still goes to the HDMI MEDIA PLAYER. I then do into "Rename Sources" and label them accordingly. It limits him to one more HDMI input (aux) but he may have a new TV by that time.
It still leaves the question about the AVR/CBL problem. Is this just a handshake problem? Is it a problem if you turn HDMI control off? If it's a real problem, he could still use his component video connection to the TV and use a coax digital connection to the AVR and assign it to TV AUDIO.
Does everyone have problems with AVR/CBL hdmi?
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post #823 of 831 Old 01-09-2015, 07:51 PM
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Doesn't the blu-ray play standard DVDs? Do you not want to run HDMI from source to receiver then the TV? For the roku, use an HDMI switcher from monoprice or run roku to receiver.


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post #824 of 831 Old 01-10-2015, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post
Doesn't the blu-ray play standard DVDs? Do you not want to run HDMI from source to receiver then the TV? For the roku, use an HDMI switcher from monoprice or run roku to receiver.


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The DVD and VHS sources I'm talking about is a actually a VHS/DVD recorder (recording VHS to DVD). It is true that he could use the Bluray to play DVDs as well. I'm connecting all the devices (that have HDMI outputs) to the AVR and then on to the TV. I don't want to get into switchers unless they are electronic and can be operated my a Harmony remote. I'm using the AVR as the HDMI switcher.
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post #825 of 831 Old 01-11-2015, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNit View Post
I just had a thought. I can connect the DVD to the analog BLU-RAY inputs (L/R/V) and the VHS to the analog CBL/SAT inputs (L/R/V). Then I connect the BLU-RAY to the HDMI DVD input and the CBL/SAT to the HDMI GAME input. The ROKU still goes to the HDMI MEDIA PLAYER. I then do into "Rename Sources" and label them accordingly. It limits him to one more HDMI input (aux) but he may have a new TV by that time.
It still leaves the question about the AVR/CBL problem. Is this just a handshake problem? Is it a problem if you turn HDMI control off? If it's a real problem, he could still use his component video connection to the TV and use a coax digital connection to the AVR and assign it to TV AUDIO.
Does everyone have problems with AVR/CBL hdmi?
Yes, the above would work. The issue with HDMI handshakes and cable box is device dependent with all brands of AVRs, not just the 1403, so the only way to know if there is one is to connect it up via HDMI; however, as you note there are work arounds.

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post #826 of 831 Old 01-14-2015, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McGowdog View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by timackerman 

Has anyone used the 1403 to drive a pair of 4 ohm speakers...

Do you think this would be too much for the 1403?


How sure are you they are 4 ohms? If I measured the speaker outlet to be 4 at dc, they would actually more like 6 ohm speakers as far as the rcvr is concerned.
going threw the old posts and ran across this post. The 1403 will not drive 4ohm speakers, it works for 10 seconds or so and resets and works for 10 seconds or so and so on ect. It also says its 8ohm in the manual but I have verified it will not work with a pair of b&w dm 600I speakers who work and sound fantastic on a onyko 803.
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post #827 of 831 Old 01-16-2015, 11:58 AM
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Hello all. New owner of a NR1403 and have read through this entire post and also Audessey 101/FAQ post.
I have run Audessey (once) at all six positions and have great results EXCEPT it set the crossovers for my Def Tech Pro Cinema 100/Pro Center 100/Pro Sub 100 monitors as follows: FL/FR 150hz; Center 120hz; RR/RL 80hz; Subwoofer 120hz.

Am I understanding this correctly? Wouldn't there be a null in the bass between 120 - 150hz? Or does Audessey perform some kind of frequency roll-off?

Sub (while watching HDTV) is WAY too loud. Audessey set it @ 3.5db and I've reduced it to -3.5db and, to me, it's still too high. I am using DynEq & DynVol.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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post #828 of 831 Old 01-16-2015, 12:10 PM
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^^
Nope. Speaker crossover settings have nothing to do with the LFE signal (20Hz-120Hz). If the sub is too loud, set Dyn EQ to OFF (or if you prefer to leave it ON, you can reduce the bass boost by setting the Dyn EQ Reference Level Offset to 10db) when watching TV as this setting is set per source device. You can further reduce the sub volume from present setting of -3.5db down to max of -12db.

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Last edited by jdsmoothie; 01-16-2015 at 12:14 PM.
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post #829 of 831 Old 01-25-2015, 10:10 AM
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Quick question for 1403 owners. Does the included remote turn power on/off for other components like sat, DVD and TV? Thanks
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post #830 of 831 Old 01-25-2015, 12:27 PM
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^^
No. Generally only the higher level models use such remotes; however, you can use one of many various Harmony remote models to accomplish the same goal.

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post #831 of 831 Old Today, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsnkiefer View Post
Hello all. New owner of a NR1403 and have read through this entire post and also Audessey 101/FAQ post.
I have run Audessey (once) at all six positions and have great results EXCEPT it set the crossovers for my Def Tech Pro Cinema 100/Pro Center 100/Pro Sub 100 monitors as follows: FL/FR 150hz; Center 120hz; RR/RL 80hz; Subwoofer 120hz.

Am I understanding this correctly? Wouldn't there be a null in the bass between 120 - 150hz? Or does Audessey perform some kind of frequency roll-off?

Sub (while watching HDTV) is WAY too loud. Audessey set it @ 3.5db and I've reduced it to -3.5db and, to me, it's still too high. I am using DynEq & DynVol.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Definitely try playing with the Reference Level Offset setting in Audyssey. When I first calibrated mine, movies were good, but TV shows had way too much bass. I run my offset at 10 dB, and that seems to work well.

On my setup, Audyssey really only nailed the bass for movies. For music (even with dynamic EQ on) I still bumped my sub up several dBs. Bass was too weak otherwise.
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