What do you think about NAD - C715? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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It is a compact NAD stereo system with tuner, cd player
Continuous average power output into 8ohms 2 x 25 (at 1kHz, EIAJ) 6 Ohm
Rated distortion (THD 20Hz-20kHz) < 0.09%
Signal to noise ratio A-weighted; ref. 1W >-90dB
Treble control ±10dB
Bass control ±10dB
Tuner
Useable input sensitivity FM Mono < 15uV/m, EMF
Harmonic distortion FM Mono < 0.3%
FM Stereo < 0.5%
Frequency response ±1.5dB 30 - 12KHz -3.0dB

Has anyone owned this or heard it before?
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post #2 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:04 PM
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Looks like most shelf system "head units" - given that brand, it's probably terribly overpriced for what it offers.

What do you need out of it though?

FWIW - Yamaha has a few models that offer similar functionality, I think one of them even plays DVDs, and there are plenty of complete HTIB packages that have small control units.


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post #3 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought about it as another option instead of the NAD 326bee. the 326bee still has much better value and better transformer then this Walbert? I still have to go hear a tube amp sometime and go to NYC to hear the Rotel Ra1520. I have a yamaha receiver that I got for 15 bucks the other day, but it sounds a little bright. I will keep it since it is surround sound. I will eventually hook it up to the living room Panasonic 42 inch lcd tv. I am sure that it sounds okay for movies. Maybe I tried it with the wrong speakers. Are kenwood speakers normally bright?
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post #4 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I am mostly a 2 channel kind of guy. I use to watch a lot of movies when I worked at the movie theater. I use to watch movies at home in dolby pro logic on old pioneer surround receiver. I use to use a magnavox home theatre in a box system for a while when I was younger. I left it at my other house. I am not sure if I want to move back to that state or stay here, so I left a lot of my old stuff there.
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post #5 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:17 PM
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There is not really a "sound" to an amplifier - it's the result of EQing, speaker placement, speaker characteristics, or perceived/imagined differences. In this case I'd vote on the last option - Yamaha is usually claimed by many audiophiles to be "bright" and there is a whole mythos about the "sounds" of various consumer brands.

Generally, and this is my opinion, NAD is never a good value for the money - you're usually paying extra just for the name.

If the goal is something highly compact (so-called "Executive Systems") this is probably one of the few options out there that plays discs; Yamaha makes the others (at least that I'm aware of) - I think Teac has a model or two that lack a CD player. If you have the space for a full-size component, I would go with a full-size component; don't pay extra to get the thing smashed down to the smallest possible size. In that regard, the Yamaha you have is probably perfectly suitable; does yours feature an EQ or room EQ? (Many Yamaha surround sound devices have EQs, even the pre-YPAO hardware, and some of them can be pretty aggressively set).


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post #6 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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maybe the yamaha is on a weird surround sound setting that I don't like since it came from thrift store. I am not sure what last setting was used on it. It is Yamaha HTR-5730. I thought about still purchasing nad 326bee, but also thought about buying a NAD Cd player to go with it. Is it better to match the same cd player brand with amp brand?
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post #7 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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but what about the people who say that Rega is so bright that it takes several hours to tame it? I saw a post on here once saying that MAcintosh amps made a guys system so bright that it annoyed him. This is where I get confused because you said that a amp doesn't have sound.
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post #8 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keyboardcat View Post

maybe the yamaha is on a weird surround sound setting that I don't like since it came from thrift store. I am not sure what last setting was used on it. It is Yamaha HTR-5730. I thought about still purchasing nad 326bee, but also thought about buying a NAD Cd player to go with it. Is it better to match the same cd player brand with amp brand?

"Matching" does not matter beyond aesthetic preference. There is no benefit to any of this "audiophile" equipment - it will not fundamentally fix any sort of response problems with your equipment.

What does the display on the Yamaha say while it's powered on? Additionally, did you go through the set-up menus and make all of the correct adjustments to reflect your configuration? AVRs are not "simple" and cannot just be dropped-in without a few adjustments.

If you don't have the user's manual or other information about the unit, see here:
http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio..._u/?mode=model

This unit doesn't appear to have YPAO, but it seems to have every other bell and whistle that you could ever need apart from HD codec decoding (which isn't really as big of a problem as you'd think) - it should do everything you want and much more. Additionally, if you refer to page 20, it mentions a "room size parameter" - it seems this unit performs some level of DSP processing to the signal, but not full-on room EQ along the lines of YPAO or Audyssey.

Quote:
Originally Posted by keyboardcat View Post

but what about the people who say that Rega is so bright that it takes several hours to tame it? I saw a post on here once saying that MAcintosh amps made a guys system so bright that it annoyed him. This is where I get confused because you said that a amp doesn't have sound.

And I'd challenge those people to prove it, in a quantifiable manner. That would mean an ABX test. I can make wild claims too: this sentence is false.

Testing between amplifiers and so on has generally demonstrated that unless one of the amplifiers under test is doing something naughty (e.g. a tube amp with an inherently non-linear output) and both amplifiers are being asked to deliver an output that is within their specification (so we take two random amplifiers that can both deliver 5W), listeners cannot pick them apart in properly controlled conditions. The differences that we can measure, such as THD and SNR, are generally so low in level that they're either inaudible and/or entirely masked by the (comparatively) huge distortion products created by speakers and the room they are placed within.

That doesn't stop people from either fabricating claims (to whatever end), or falling prey to various cognitive biases. Human perception is NOT an absolute thing, and it's very unfair to assert that one is capable of picking apart minute details over space and time in a very accurate manner. It just doesn't reflect the documented abilities of man.


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post #9 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the yamaha link. It had no remote and no manual.
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post #10 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:31 PM
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From giving the manual a quick looking over, it appears you need the remote to adjust menu settings on this unit. I'd look for an inexpensive universal; replacements will probably be very costly.


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post #11 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
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What about heat sinks though? I hear that NAD has better heat sink then Yamaha? I know what you are talking about with Yamaha mini systems. A salesman at Boscovs department store told me the Yamaha was loud and a good deal. He said that even though it's only like 20 or 30 watts, it gets loud. He was impressed with it. He was like you even get speakers with it. He said that he would recommend Yamaha over other brands. I heard rumors that surround sound receivers don't use good heat sinks a lot of times. Is it true? Some people said that a 100 watt receiver was only 30 watts cuz small heat sink.
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post #12 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 04:45 PM
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A heatsink does nothing for sound quality - it's a cooling device. It's a piece of metal (usually aluminum although some computers use copper or more exotic materials (I've seen gold plating a time or two on really customized equipment)) that provides a greater surface area for heat to dissipate from. It's size is dictated by what it has to cool, and airflow. Fans can reduce the size requirements, placement can change the size requirements, and so on. Finally, the amount of heat they have to dissipate determines how large they must be - more efficient amplifiers do not need as much cooling, as they express less of their input power as heat.

There's a huge Wikipedia article too:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heatsink (I really don't mean to "brush you off" - I just don't feel like re-inventing the wheel talking about sinking).

Regarding everything else:
"Loud" is subjective and tells us nothing - 30W cannot be louder than 100W. That's physics. However it is not *much* louder, and depending on how it's volume control is set-up, many people will argue that it might be "more powerful" - see here:
http://trace.wisc.edu/docs/2004-About-dB/
And:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=58829

Now as far as the final bit - inexpensive receivers notoriously do not live up to their power ratings, but this is generally always the result of their power supplies being inadequate (and in some cases, the numbers on the box are just purely fabricated because they meet a marketer's needs). However this ignores the complexity of the issue: ACD does not matter in the real world. If the unit can deliver a reasonable continuous power output (which you can figure out based on the sensitivity and placement of your speakers relative to your performance requirements), and can hit per-channel peak levels for the material you're playing back, it will be suitable. Most receivers can accomplish this easily.


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post #13 of 18 Old 05-09-2012, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I remember looking at a integra receiver once, and they said that it was better connection because it was gold plated.
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post #14 of 18 Old 05-10-2012, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keyboardcat View Post

I remember looking at a integra receiver once, and they said that it was better connection because it was gold plated.

Doesn't matter, that's a wholly irrelevant marketing blurb to worry about.

Integra is just a re-badged Onkyo (does it feel as special now?), they target CI dealers.


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post #15 of 18 Old 05-10-2012, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Walbert what other brands are re branding with similar parts other then onkyo?
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post #16 of 18 Old 05-10-2012, 03:25 PM
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I wanted to add to what I said earlier (the previous post was sent from my mobile) -

I don't mean to send you "running and screaming" from the prospect of rebadged hardware. In a lot of cases there's nothing wrong with the product wearing different shoes. Sometimes it means a much higher price though, and in those cases I would caution you - there's an oft-cited example of a Lexicon player (that has an SRP of something like $5000) that's a re-packaged Oppo model. Does having it say Lexicon on the faceplate do very much for you?

In the case of Integra and Onkyo, they usually charge the same (or very similar) prices for both products, and it just depends on what channel you're going through as to which you'll get. They make competent products (and we could re-name them anything we wanted and that wouldn't change), it's just something worth noting at the end of the day (I've heard a lot of arguments about Integra being "high end" and "clear sounding" while Onkyo usually doesn't receive such praise; the irony is that it's the same exact hardware - what does this tell you?).

And the take-away here is basically: there's lots more to this than just looking at the brand name. Generally speaking the brand name doesn't tell us a whole lot, unless you're dealing with a brand that has a reputation for poor customer service or not honoring warranties (I can't think of an example). Basically my advice is to figure out what your actual application requirements are, and then find a list of products that satisfy those requirements. Once you've got that list, pick anything on it. As an example, there's probably at least 20 different Blu-ray players that I could "drop-in" in place of the one I have - with absolutely no difference beyond having to re-program my remotes and the time to install the unit. Obviously I can't buy all 20, so I picked one (and in my case, I picked what happened to be both the cheapest and coolest looking (I know, such legitimate technical criteria!) model). For most people, I suspect a similar situation to exist; there's easily dozens or hundreds of products that can satisfy whatever need you have and be more or less transparent to one another as a proper solution. As the saying goes - there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Here's an example with NAD:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21880472

This doesn't mean the T747 is bad - remember, it's the same thing as that M80. Neither company is "dishonest" here. So re-badging isn't always the big bad gorilla that it's sometimes made out to be. Now, if NAD wanted $3000 for that receiver just because it's now a NAD, that would be absurd (I think SRP for the 747 is $1299 but I may be wrong - it's slightly more than the M80's stated price of $999, but remember that NAD provides direct end-user support while the Proficient is sold through custom-install channels; not to mention that you can actually BUY the NAD while the Proficient is fairly rare).


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post #17 of 18 Old 01-22-2013, 11:54 AM
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I have owned one of these buggers for about 4 years now.

Build quality is not up to what is normally NAD's standards. Potmeter went south after two years (digital, expensive to replace) but volume can still be adjusted with the remote.
The DAB-unit is so flimsy it is borderline useless. I have a 800 yard clean view to the antenna, and still the FM reception is better.
CD-player and using mp3 from USB is however painless.

Sound character of the 715 is a bit brighter than Teac 300 series. But poor bass control in general. Only likes to be used at low volume with 8ohm speakers with high sensitivity. Using the subwoofer line out is almost required to get good bass even if you run a double-refrigerator HT setup.
The heatsinks and weight is impressive, but don't be fooled - it is a a sheep in sheep's clothing.
Considering the price I would so not recommend this product.
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post #18 of 18 Old 05-10-2013, 02:17 AM
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Does anybody know if I could hook up my NAD c715 to an end-amplifier?
(In this case a NAD 216 THX.)

The c715 doesn't have a pre-amp out. Could I use the Tape-out, for instance?

(BTW I'm quite happy with my c715, but as it has to fill quite some space with sound in my new house, I'm in need of some extra power.)

Thank's!

Frederik



Edit: I've started a new thread http://www.avsforum.com/t/1472139/hook-up-nad-c715-to-end-amplifier
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