Other than the cool factor (nothing wrong with cool), based on your above conversation, thinking of your posted cost considerations, what's the point (the logic of your thinking) of a separate, 300w, stereo Amp?
(Nothing wrong with the OSD AMP300 as it's spec'd as 2 ohm stable.)
Earlier you asked: "Since the Wharfedale’s are only 6 ohms, does this mean that they will be powered more easily by the receiver (maybe I will not need an amp)?"
It's a bit confusing but as the ohms go down the resistance goes up and the receiver sees the lower ohm speaker requirement as a short; think arc welding. Pretty much, most receivers are 6 ohm spec'd. And yes, the confusion, the available watts does go up. Example, the Denon 2313CI goes from 105w to 135w and is 6 ohm stable.
(see pg 2)
From here one gets into watts, dB's and how loud do you want it? Getting one's rational concerns under control is much like herding cats.
An aside to your comment regarding the addition of a separate Amp. Something most don't concern themselves with when assembling a killer system, what is the amperage of the to be used circuit breaker? At 120V, a 15A breaker is only going give you 1800w of available current. What this means is, the more draw you put on the circuit, the less headroom your Amp will have to work with because the available current will be restricted and you'll start tripping breakers or blowing fuses. With constant draw, wire heats up from electron transfer friction; think wall fires. Also, when electrical devices are energy limited, they run hot like running a car up a long steep hill. And like a car, the hotter gear gets, the less efficiently they run.
A suggestion would be to add up all the watts of all the devices that would be running while viewing a movie, including the 300w Amp. All are things to consider when adding separates and low efficiency speakers into a system and how will they get along with existing wall wiring.