The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 205 - AVS Forum
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post #6121 of 9153 Old 11-03-2013, 07:57 PM
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hi all just got a 4520 upgraded from a 4311 in love so far saw some where looking at heights vs wides I use heights paradigm ams in walls heres some pics
null_zps10153d1d.jpg

DSC_0442.jpg
DSC_0341-1.jpg

I did have some studio 20s before as my wides to go with the studio 100s and miss them so on the hunt for these again lol
old pic with the covers on
29716581.jpg
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post #6122 of 9153 Old 11-03-2013, 08:44 PM
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SoundofMind

Thanks for the advice, I will try them in the Wide setting position as recommended and check out the results.

Once again thanks to all of the responses so far, much appreciated.

Phil
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post #6123 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 03:28 AM
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Quote:

Originally Posted by drtoronto View Post
...
I did have some studio 20s before as my wides to go with the studio 100s and miss them so on the hunt for these again lol
old pic with the covers on
29716581.jpg

That's a very attractive HT setup.  BTW, just from the perspective of the pics, it doesn't appear that like the htz OR wides are placed for best audio effect.  It's all about the angles.


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post #6124 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by pmcduie View Post
SoundofMind
Thanks for the advice, I will try them in the Wide setting position as recommended and check out the results.

You're welcome.  I recommend a protractor, a laser pointer and an assistant with some masking tape to mark the position on the wall. Seated in MLP and using straight ahead/CC as the centerline, shoot  60 degrees.  As a reference your FR/L should be about 30 and surr at about 90.  So wides will fill that gap in the surr bubble perfectly. 

 

As for install, if space and aesthetics allows, placing bookshelf size speakers on speaker stands against the side wall is a frequent good choice, like drtoronto's classy look.  For on-wall mount, ideally the front wall edge should be shimmed out so the tweets aim at MLP.  Some on/in-wall speakers have an aimable tweeter that might allow for a more flush mount if desired.

 

edit: Oh, now I see just how tiny those VAF i49s are.  As even a small recessed shelf is not easy into a block wall, could go for tiny shelves and angle the speaker on the shelf, or small brackets.


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post #6125 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by pmcduie View Post

Thanks for the response, not sure I can easily try both options, I have concrete walls and adding the speakers to both front and wide as a test is not viable. I expect to commit to one or the other and then attach them to the walls and rerun Audyssey on my 4520.
I understand the 60 degree recommendation, but it is not clear to me about the height of the wide speakers ( relative to the Fronts). The existing fronts are 1100 mm high ( 3 ft 7" imperial). Any recommendations appreciated. Also should they be angled towards the MLP?
Is there a "published" reference by Audyssey on this, that can be downloaded?

Phil

The use of Front Heights seem to get mixed reviews in forum posts as to their effectiveness as well as which simulation mode is used whereas if the room (and WAF) permits, Front Wides will provide a much bigger improvement:

Front Height
- DSX (audio derived from FL/FR speakers + audio level from FL/FR/FHL/FHR dropped by 3db)
- Neo:X (audio derived from FL/FR/SL/SR)
- Dolby PLIIz (SL/SR)

Front Wide
DSX and Neo:X (FL/FR, SL/SR)

As SOM suggests, the larger the separation (ie. following the suggested guidelines in that Audyssey image) between the Front Heights/Wides and the Front Mains will produce the most dramatic effect. I added Front Wides to my setup a couple months ago and enjoy the surround bubble much more so as a result. I have the Front Wides on stands with the tweeters at roughly the same height as the FL/FR tower tweeters.
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post #6126 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by drtoronto View Post

...

I did have some studio 20s before as my wides to go with the studio 100s and miss them so on the hunt for these again lol

old pic with the covers on
29716581.jpg
That's a very attractive HT setup.  BTW, just from the perspective of the pics, it doesn't appear that like the htz OR wides are placed for best audio effect.  It's all about the angles.

Hence audessy room correction it's very hard to position speakers to there specs ie all rooms are different and different layouts mine works well with heights at 5ft and 45degres plus all the safe and sound plus having all my fronts at the same height ie tweeters aligned isn't easy as well smile.gif
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post #6127 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 12:42 PM
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I have the Denon 4520 with Klipsch LaScalas on my front thee channels and Klipsch Heresy Industrial HIP speaker in the rear. I ran Audyssey and it knocked my levels down from 6-9db on my channels. Prior to running Audyssey I was listening to movies at about 20 db lower (using the volume control readout as an indicator). An example was I was listening before at around -40 and now I am listening at -25 (which is about the same as when I had my Paradigm Studios. The difference in efficiency of the 2 setups is around 14db (which I know doesn't equate quite to the figures but maybe it is because the Klipsch are louder in the voice area?? I do know that without the Audtssey I could still hear the speakers with the volume one notch above full mute where no I can't

My questions are:
1:) Is the reference level the level you would be listening at, and if so would that be with my volume control at 0? Without the Audyssey, there is no way I could listen at 0.

2:) In the menu is a spot where it lists reference level and mine is at 0. When it is knocking down the level by 6 to 9 db... That means I need to raise the volume up 6-9db or change the internal levels to get them all back to 77-80db correct?

3:) If I leave the settings alone it means I am turning the volume up which means I am using more power to get to the same volume level I had prior to Audyssey therefor defeating the efficiency of the Klipsch speakers, correct?


tia,
Ron

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post #6128 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

I have the Denon 4520 with Klipsch LaScalas on my front thee channels and Klipsch Heresy Industrial HIP speaker in the rear. I ran Audyssey and it knocked my levels down from 6-9db on my channels. Prior to running Audyssey I was listening to movies at about 20 db lower (using the volume control readout as an indicator). An example was I was listening before at around -40 and now I am listening at -25 (which is about the same as when I had my Paradigm Studios. The difference in efficiency of the 2 setups is around 14db (which I know doesn't equate quite to the figures but maybe it is because the Klipsch are louder in the voice area?? I do know that without the Audtssey I could still hear the speakers with the volume one notch above full mute where no I can't

My questions are:
1:) Is the reference level the level you would be listening at, and if so would that be with my volume control at 0? Without the Audyssey, there is no way I could listen at 0.

2:) In the menu is a spot where it lists reference level and mine is at 0. When it is knocking down the level by 6 to 9 db... That means I need to raise the volume up 6-9db or change the internal levels to get them all back to 77-80db correct?

3:) If I leave the settings alone it means I am turning the volume up which means I am using more power to get to the same volume level I had prior to Audyssey therefor defeating the efficiency of the Klipsch speakers, correct?


tia,
Ron
My understanding of Audyssey calibration is that 'Reference' is a fixed set of values as to properly reproduce audio content the way it was recorded. By completing Audyssey calibration, it adjusts the individual volume levels, equalization, crossover frequencies and delay of each speaker based on it's individual performance and room acoustics to create a sound as close to 'Reference' as possible in a given room with the speakers available.
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post #6129 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

My understanding of Audyssey calibration is that 'Reference' is a fixed set of values as to properly reproduce audio content the way it was recorded. By completing Audyssey calibration, it adjusts the individual volume levels, equalization, crossover frequencies and delay of each speaker based on it's individual performance and room acoustics to create a sound as close to 'Reference' as possible in a given room with the speakers available.
What volume level would I set it to if I want to listen to reference level then? Is reference level the same as the theater? Would I be messing it up then to go in and manually set each channels level to 80db with the Denon Audyssey tones and a meter after running the Audyssey in auto mode?

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post #6130 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Several misunderstandings here....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

My questions are:
1:) Is the reference level the level you would be listening at, and if so would that be with my volume control at 0? Without the Audyssey, there is no way I could listen at 0.

There is no mandate that you actually listen at reference level (and in fact few people do at home, it's too loud). After calibration, regardless of what speakers you are using, Reference Level is defined as 0 (relative scale) or 80 (absolute scale) on the volume dial. Most people will listen well below that however, and that's why Dynamic EQ is there to maintain the tonal balance at this sub-reference volume level.

The fact that all your speaker trims are well into the negative range just reflects the fact that these speakers are very efficient, and require less power to achieve the same volume as your prior speakers.

Quote:
2:) In the menu is a spot where it lists reference level and mine is at 0. When it is knocking down the level by 6 to 9 db... That means I need to raise the volume up 6-9db or change the internal levels to get them all back to 77-80db correct?

No, not correct. I assume you are referring to the Dynamic EQ Reference Level OFFSET parameter in the Audyssey menu. This is used to tone down the boost of Dynamic EQ, primarily for non film sources which may not have been mixed at the standard film reference level. So, for example, without any offset the receiver thinks "reference" is at 0 on the volume dial, and Dynamic EQ will start boosting progressively more as you drop the volume below 0. If you set the offset to 10dB, then it thinks reference level is actually -10 (or 70 out of 80 on the absolute scale) and will only boost starting as the volume drops below -10dB. This is needed for cable TV, music, etc. which can sound excessively boomy without any offset.

Quote:
3:) If I leave the settings alone it means I am turning the volume up which means I am using more power to get to the same volume level I had prior to Audyssey therefor defeating the efficiency of the Klipsch speakers, correct?

Incorrect again smile.gif The amount of power required to reach a certain volume level is a fixed quantity, based upon the speaker sensitivity and distance from the speaker (plus any room acoustic gain). If it takes 50 watts of power to reach 90dB at the listening position, it will always take 50 watts (unless you changed speakers or listening distance). Period.
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post #6131 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

What volume level would I set it to if I want to listen to reference level then? Is reference level the same as the theater?

See my post above. Reference Level = 0 or 80 (depending on the volume scale setting) and, yes, it would be theoretically equivalent to what you would hear in a calibrated theater or mixing stage.

Quote:
Would I be messing it up then to go in and manually set each channels level to 80db with the Denon Audyssey tones and a meter after running the Audyssey in auto mode?

There is zero point in doing this. If you bump up all channel levels by 5dB, it's exactly the same as if you had simply turned up the master volume by 5dB. Either way, the volume is 5dB louder.

Leave the calibrated levels as set by Audyssey, and just use your volume knob wink.gif
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post #6132 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

I have the Denon 4520 with Klipsch LaScalas on my front thee channels and Klipsch Heresy Industrial HIP speaker in the rear. I ran Audyssey and it knocked my levels down from 6-9db on my channels. Prior to running Audyssey I was listening to movies at about 20 db lower (using the volume control readout as an indicator). An example was I was listening before at around -40 and now I am listening at -25 (which is about the same as when I had my Paradigm Studios. The difference in efficiency of the 2 setups is around 14db (which I know doesn't equate quite to the figures but maybe it is because the Klipsch are louder in the voice area?? I do know that without the Audtssey I could still hear the speakers with the volume one notch above full mute where no I can't

My questions are:
1:) Is the reference level the level you would be listening at, and if so would that be with my volume control at 0? Without the Audyssey, there is no way I could listen at 0.

2:) In the menu is a spot where it lists reference level and mine is at 0. When it is knocking down the level by 6 to 9 db... That means I need to raise the volume up 6-9db or change the internal levels to get them all back to 77-80db correct?

3:) If I leave the settings alone it means I am turning the volume up which means I am using more power to get to the same volume level I had prior to Audyssey therefor defeating the efficiency of the Klipsch speakers, correct?


tia,
Ron

 

Audyssey attempts to calibrate your system to movie Reference Level, which is 85dB average, 105dB peaks (with 115dB peaks for the LFE channel). If your system is capable of this, it will achieve it when the master Volume is set to 0dB.

 

Prior to calibration you would have had no particular setting on the MV that meant anything at all, other than how subjectively 'loud' the system was playing, You may have achieved, for example, Reference Level at -7dB or at +4dB - it is anyone's guess.

 

In order to achieve Reference Level at 0dB on the MV, Audyssey will have 'listened' to your system when calibrating it and adjusted the trim levels of the speakers accordingly. In doing so, it has had the effect that 85dB/105dB is now achieved at 0dB.

 

There is no question of 'wasting power' - 85dB is 85dB regardless of where it appears on the MV.

 

EDIT: Gee, if I had read ahead a couple of posts, I’d have seen that baptpig had already given you a 100% correct response. :)

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post #6133 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

I have the Denon 4520 with Klipsch LaScalas on my front thee channels and Klipsch Heresy Industrial HIP speaker in the rear. I ran Audyssey and it knocked my levels down from 6-9db on my channels. Prior to running Audyssey I was listening to movies at about 20 db lower (using the volume control readout as an indicator). An example was I was listening before at around -40 and now I am listening at -25 (which is about the same as when I had my Paradigm Studios. The difference in efficiency of the 2 setups is around 14db (which I know doesn't equate quite to the figures but maybe it is because the Klipsch are louder in the voice area?? I do know that without the Audtssey I could still hear the speakers with the volume one notch above full mute where no I can't
Previously your receiver was not calibrated for your room. Without a careful measurement of your room's acoustics, there's no way to know how its volume control levels were related to the sound levels at your primary listening position. From what you've written, I'm guessing you didn't use a sound level meter to measure the sound levels that you liked to listen to.
Quote:

My questions are:
1:) Is the reference level the level you would be listening at, and if so would that be with my volume control at 0? Without the Audyssey, there is no way I could listen at 0.
Only listen at Reference level if it's what you like. After the receiver has been calibrated for your room, Reference level (0 or 80 depending on which volume scale you're using) is supposed to be the same at your primary listening position as the sound level you would hear when seated centrally in a properly calibrated commercial movie theater.
Quote:
2:) In the menu is a spot where it lists reference level and mine is at 0. When it is knocking down the level by 6 to 9 db... That means I need to raise the volume up 6-9db or change the internal levels to get them all back to 77-80db correct?
Nope. The calibrated volume scale is directly related (in dB) to the volume levels standardized for movies. If you adjust any levels, the volume settings shown when you adjust the volume control knob (or equivalent remote control command) are no longer correct.

In most home environments, with untreated listening rooms, people tend to listen to movies at about -20dB and CDs at about -30dB. In carefully treated rooms people tend to listen at settings closer to Reference. I believe this is because the treatments remove the extra energy contained in reflections. Without those reflections, the aggregate sound level is noticeably lower.
Quote:
3:) If I leave the settings alone it means I am turning the volume up which means I am using more power to get to the same volume level I had prior to Audyssey therefor defeating the efficiency of the Klipsch speakers, correct?
Nope. After calibration, the volume level values tell you the sound levels you will be hearing relative to Reference (as described above). They say nothing whatsoever about how much total power is being used by the receiver to produce that sound level. This is quite different from the old-style volume controls which were used before receiver calibration became common. To put it another way, you simply cannot determine from volume control settings how much power is being used to produce the sound levels that you hear.

This actually can be a problem if you're using inefficient speakers in a large (or acoustically dead) room. The sound levels used to calibrate the receiver are substantially below reference level. The receiver might actually be unable to produce reference sound levels if it isn't powerful enough. That's not the case for your system, though, since Klipsch speakers are quite efficient.

If you use a sound level meter (like those available from Radio Shack, for example) and know the efficiency of your speakers and the distance between your speakers and the meter's microphone, you can calculate the power that the receiver is putting out. Another way would be to replace one of your speakers with a fixed resistance load, provide a fixed sinusoidal tone and directly measure the power dissipated by it at a specific volume control setting.

I hope these comments help to clarify things a little.

Edited to add. Of course others beat me to this response. (I had several interruptions while writing it smile.gif ) But I'll leave it anyhow, since the viewpoint is slightly different.
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post #6134 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Several misunderstandings here....
There is no mandate that you actually listen at reference level (and in fact few people do at home, it's too loud). After calibration, regardless of what speakers you are using, Reference Level is defined as 0 (relative scale) or 80 (absolute scale) on the volume dial. Most people will listen well below that however, and that's why Dynamic EQ is there to maintain the tonal balance at this sub-reference volume level.

The fact that all your speaker trims are well into the negative range just reflects the fact that these speakers are very efficient, and require less power to achieve the same volume as your prior speakers.
No, not correct. I assume you are referring to the Dynamic EQ Reference Level OFFSET parameter in the Audyssey menu. This is used to tone down the boost of Dynamic EQ, primarily for non film sources which may not have been mixed at the standard film reference level. So, for example, without any offset the receiver thinks "reference" is at 0 on the volume dial, and Dynamic EQ will start boosting progressively more as you drop the volume below 0. If you set the offset to 10dB, then it thinks reference level is actually -10 (or 70 out of 80 on the absolute scale) and will only boost starting as the volume drops below -10dB. This is needed for cable TV, music, etc. which can sound excessively boomy without any offset.
Incorrect again smile.gif The amount of power required to reach a certain volume level is a fixed quantity, based upon the speaker sensitivity and distance from the speaker (plus any room acoustic gain). If it takes 50 watts of power to reach 90dB at the listening position, it will always take 50 watts (unless you changed speakers or listening distance). Period.

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

See my post above. Reference Level = 0 or 80 (depending on the volume scale setting) and, yes, it would be theoretically equivalent to what you would hear in a calibrated theater or mixing stage.
There is zero point in doing this. If you bump up all channel levels by 5dB, it's exactly the same as if you had simply turned up the master volume by 5dB. Either way, the volume is 5dB louder.

Leave the calibrated levels as set by Audyssey, and just use your volume knob wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Audyssey attempts to calibrate your system to movie Reference Level, which is 85dB average, 105dB peaks (with 115dB peaks for the LFE channel). If your system is capable of this, it will achieve it when the master Volume is set to 0dB.

Prior to calibration you would have had no particular setting on the MV that meant anything at all, other than how subjectively 'loud' the system was playing, You may have achieved, for example, Reference Level at -7dB or at +4dB - it is anyone's guess.

In order to achieve Reference Level at 0dB on the MV, Audyssey will have 'listened' to your system when calibrating it and adjusted the trim levels of the speakers accordingly. In doing so, it has had the effect that 85dB/105dB is now achieved at 0dB.

There is no question of 'wasting power' - 85dB is 85dB regardless of where it appears on the MV.

EDIT: Gee, if I had read ahead a couple of posts, I’d have seen that baptpig had already given you a 100% correct response. smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

Previously your receiver was not calibrated for your room. Without a careful measurement of your room's acoustics, there's no way to know how its volume control levels were related to the sound levels at your primary listening position. From what you've written, I'm guessing you didn't use a sound level meter to measure the sound levels that you liked to listen to.
Only listen at Reference level if it's what you like. After the receiver has been calibrated for your room, Reference level (0 or 80 depending on which volume scale you're using) is supposed to be the same at your primary listening position as the sound level you would hear when seated centrally in a properly calibrated commercial movie theater.
Nope. The calibrated volume scale is directly related (in dB) to the volume levels standardized for movies. If you adjust any levels, the volume settings shown when you adjust the volume control knob (or equivalent remote control command) are no longer correct.

In most home environments, with untreated listening rooms, people tend to listen to movies at about -20dB and CDs at about -30dB. In carefully treated rooms people tend to listen at settings closer to Reference. I believe this is because the treatments remove the extra energy contained in reflections. Without those reflections, the aggregate sound level is noticeably lower.
Nope. After calibration, the volume level values tell you the sound levels you will be hearing relative to Reference (as described above). They say nothing whatsoever about how much total power is being used by the receiver to produce that sound level. This is quite different from the old-style volume controls which were used before receiver calibration became common. To put it another way, you simply cannot determine from volume control settings how much power is being used to produce the sound levels that you hear.

This actually can be a problem if you're using inefficient speakers in a large (or acoustically dead) room. The sound levels used to calibrate the receiver are substantially below reference level. The receiver might actually be unable to produce reference sound levels if it isn't powerful enough. That's not the case for your system, though, since Klipsch speakers are quite efficient.

If you use a sound level meter (like those available from Radio Shack, for example) and know the efficiency of your speakers and the distance between your speakers and the meter's microphone, you can calculate the power that the receiver is putting out. Another way would be to replace one of your speakers with a fixed resistance load, provide a fixed sinusoidal tone and directly measure the power dissipated by it at a specific volume control setting.

I hope these comments help to clarify things a little.

Edited to add. Of course others beat me to this response. (I had several interruptions while writing it smile.gif ) But I'll leave it anyhow, since the viewpoint is slightly different.
Thank you very much for explaining this better to me. I have some Wool panels on the walls (inside of Japanese Kimono silk), and that is it for wall treatments for the time being. I have the Radio Shack meter and a Mastech Digital sound level meter MS6700 30 dB - 130 dB for measuring. Is there any need to set your levels manually with the Audyssey prior to running the auto mode?

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post #6135 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
 
In most home environments, with untreated listening rooms, people tend to listen to movies at about -20dB and CDs at about -30dB. In carefully treated rooms people tend to listen at settings closer to Reference. I believe this is because the treatments remove the extra energy contained in reflections. Without those reflections, the aggregate sound level is noticeably lower.

 

This is very true. When I had no treatments at all, I used to listen typically at about -15dB. After I added my first lot of treatments, this dropped to about -12dB on the MV, followed by more treatments taking the MV to typically -9dB. Now I have added even more treatments I typically listen at -6dB. So the treatments seem to have removed about 9dB of energy in total which is a heck of a lot. Or, because the sound is so much cleaner, I may be listening at much higher levels - or a combination of the two. I do find nowadays that I can wind the MV up considerably and the system still sounds just as clean as at lower MV settings, but louder. Often I am surprised at how loud I am listening because it doesn't 'sound loud'. Everyone will find different settings of the MV which are best for them of course - almost nobody listens at Reference Levels at home as you have said (not even professionals like FilmMixer who finds Reference at home "too loud").

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post #6136 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Is there any need to set your levels manually with the Audyssey prior to running the auto mode?

No, any settings are ignored during calibration.
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post #6137 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
 
Thank you very much for explaining this better to me. I have some Wool panels on the walls (inside of Japanese Kimono silk), and that is it for wall treatments for the time being. I have the Radio Shack meter and a Mastech Digital sound level meter MS6700 30 dB - 130 dB for measuring. Is there any need to set your levels manually with the Audyssey prior to running the auto mode?

 

No - Audyssey ignores AVR settings when it does the calibration.

 

If you are new to Audyssey, there is a ton of useful info, hints and tips in the Audyssey FAQ, linked in my sig.

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post #6138 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by batpig View Post
 
Quote:
Is there any need to set your levels manually with the Audyssey prior to running the auto mode?

No, any settings are ignored during calibration.

 

LOL - gee, bp, twice in one session! I shall have to sharpen up my act :)

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post #6139 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
 
Edited to add. Of course others beat me to this response. (I had several interruptions while writing it smile.gif ) But I'll leave it anyhow, since the viewpoint is slightly different.

 

I do this all the time because I hardly ever read ahead and never if the replies already made go over to the next page. I usually leave the semi-redundant post too, on the basis that if a few people respond similarly it confirms to the OP that the answers can be relied on - more authority etc. And also, as you say, there are often nuances to different replies which can also enlighten.

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post #6140 of 9153 Old 11-04-2013, 01:39 PM
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Well I am done calibrating then till my Triax sub arrives. Thanks again for all the assistance in understanding this part. smile.gif
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post #6141 of 9153 Old 11-05-2013, 09:40 PM
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Hello all,

I am using the media player HDMI input for sound only from my Sony 4K player. The sound continuously clips.
Am I doing something wrong or should I be using a different input?
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post #6142 of 9153 Old 11-06-2013, 06:37 AM
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Hello all,

I am using the media player HDMI input for sound only from my Sony 4K player. The sound continuously clips.
Am I doing something wrong or should I be using a different input?

I have the same Sony player and a 4520. I have the player HDMI2 out connected to the 4520 (it doesn't matter which HDMI input you use), and there is no clipping.

There have been a number of audio issues associated with the Sony player unrelated to the AVR being used. I recommend you move this conversation to the media player thread.
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post #6143 of 9153 Old 11-06-2013, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by crutch85 View Post

I've recently purchased the Denon AVR-4520ci and have a quick question about the standby/power. Is this unit supposed to turn off completely when you press the power button on the remote or front panel? When I press either button, the display toggles between main zone on and main zone off.

I'm sorry if this has been answered before. I couldn't find anything in my searches. This unit replaces my Denon 5803 from long dragging my feet to avoid upgrading. Thanks for any help.

Sounds like you may have another zone turned on by accident.

I know on mine if zone two is on it will do that when I turn main off.

See My Setup Here

 

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post #6144 of 9153 Old 11-06-2013, 07:55 PM
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Does anyone know how to do a factory reset on the unit? I
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post #6145 of 9153 Old 11-06-2013, 07:57 PM
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Does anyone know how to do a factory reset on the unit? I

 

Deep reset:   UP and DOWN arrows while powering on

Network Reset:  DIMMER and INFO buttons while powering on

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post #6146 of 9153 Old 11-08-2013, 02:16 PM
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Hey guys

New 4520 owner. Upgraded from 4810.

My 4520 is connected to my Samsung LCD (monitor 1) aNd my epson 5030 (monitor2).

When I put the 4520 on auto I get no picture from the Samsung even with the projector off. If I unplug the projector from monitor 2 I have a picture. This was the case on my 4810 as well. It must be the Samsung LCD.

If I put the 4520 on monitor one I can have both the tv and the projector hooked up and have a picture on the LCD.

On the 4810 there was a button on the remote to switch from monitor 1 to 2.

Is there a quick way with the 4520 to do the same without going into the menus?

Thanks in advance

Custer
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post #6147 of 9153 Old 11-08-2013, 02:21 PM
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Does anyone know how to do a factory reset on the unit? I

I describe the (3) resets in post 3 of this thread linked below ...

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1430049/the-official-denon-avr-4520ci-thread/0_100#post_22413909

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post #6148 of 9153 Old 11-08-2013, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by General Custer View Post

Hey guys

New 4520 owner. Upgraded from 4810.

My 4520 is connected to my Samsung LCD (monitor 1) aNd my epson 5030 (monitor2).

When I put the 4520 on auto I get no picture from the Samsung even with the projector off. If I unplug the projector from monitor 2 I have a picture. This was the case on my 4810 as well. It must be the Samsung LCD.

If I put the 4520 on monitor one I can have both the tv and the projector hooked up and have a picture on the LCD.

On the 4810 there was a button on the remote to switch from monitor 1 to 2.

Is there a quick way with the 4520 to do the same without going into the menus?

Thanks in advance

Custer

The buttons on the current remotes are greatly reduced from yesteryear. Your best bet is to use a universal/programmable remote (eg. Harmony) which can learn the button commands from your 4810 remote (or can be downloaded from the Logitech website).

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post #6149 of 9153 Old 11-08-2013, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The buttons on the current remotes are greatly reduced from yesteryear. Your best bet is to use a universal/programmable remote (eg. Harmony) which can learn the button commands from your 4810 remote (or can be downloaded from the Logitech website).

Will the old 4810 remote work with the 4520. My unit is updating the firmware so I can't check.

Would I be better off connecting the projector to the zone 4 out?

Thanks

Custer
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post #6150 of 9153 Old 11-08-2013, 02:40 PM
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Not sure , but they likely will. The Zone 4 output would be another option, with the limitation that if playing the same source to both TV and PJ, the audio to the surround speakers will likely be down mixed to Stereo.

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