The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 271 - AVS Forum
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post #8101 of 8839 Old 05-12-2014, 05:17 PM
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Do you know what the LFE should be set to in the receiver. Im running two svs sb-2000 subwoofer's.
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post #8102 of 8839 Old 05-12-2014, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterK View Post

If you are using subwoofers, then all your speakers need to be set as "small" to properly have the low frequencies routed to the subs.

Is that correct? LFE will still go to the subs, just not L/R lows if you set speakers to large, I would think.

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post #8103 of 8839 Old 05-12-2014, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes that is correct. All covered in the audyssey FAQs. Bass management is a good thing, let your subs do what they were meant to.

If speakers are set to small the LFE setting is irrelevant. If set to large the LFE+MAIN setting engages double bass.

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post #8104 of 8839 Old 05-12-2014, 05:34 PM
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This is discussed in detail in the Audyssey thread. Search for kbarnes701 and follow the links in his signature.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=21782993&postcount=51803
http://www.avsforum.com/t/795421/official-audyssey-thread-faq-in-post-1/51750#post_21783025
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post #8105 of 8839 Old 05-12-2014, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterK View Post

Have a new 4520. Thanks JD!
Question is probably a dumb one.
How do you get Pandora to work? I have network working - hard wired to router. When I select Pandora, it starts Authenticating and then says cannot connect. No other options to set up an account show up. What steps to set this up am I missing? Does this require being fed Pandora from an external device like a PC or Apple product? I thought this would access directly.
DHCP is On and Proxy is off.
Nothing in the owners manual and found nothing in Setup.
Internet Radio is working.
Thanks
Pete

I have actually never used Pandora on the 4520, so I thought I would give it a try. When I select Network, and then Pandora, I don't get any display on the TV screen. How do I configure the video to get on-screen output for Network apps?
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post #8106 of 8839 Old 05-12-2014, 05:50 PM
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Mine automatically displayed using the HDMI TV connection. My TV I have to switch to HDMI as I use regular coax cable direct to TV for cable viewing. If your regular Denon GUI will display then I would think the Network screen should show up. I used the Internet Radio button on the Denon remote to access Pandora to get the display. I may be doing it wrong as I can't get Pandora to connect.
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post #8107 of 8839 Old 05-12-2014, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterK View Post

Mine automatically displayed using the HDMI TV connection. My TV I have to switch to HDMI as I use regular coax cable direct to TV for cable viewing. If your regular Denon GUI will display then I would think the Network screen should show up. I used the Internet Radio button on the Denon remote to access Pandora to get the display. I may be doing it wrong as I can't get Pandora to connect.

This is exactly how I do it, and it works great for me.

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post #8108 of 8839 Old 05-12-2014, 11:20 PM
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hey guys i just got the 4520 a week ago and i love it, im using 9 speakers and im thinking on getting a amp to drive FLC and use my denon for FH/FW and side Surround , I Look at the Emotiva UPA-500, will this amp work whit the 4520, i never have a amp but i will like to step into the world of separates, i only have 499.00 to spend on amp, will this improvise the SQ or help the 4520

my speakers are Axiom

VP150 v3 On-Wall Center Channel /Max 200 Watts
M22 v3 On-Wall Speakers FL/FR /Max 200 Watts
6 - M3 v4 On-Wall Speakers FH/FW Side Surround /Max 175 Watts

thanks in advanced

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post #8109 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATA7 View Post

hey guys i just got the 4520 a week ago and i love it, im using 9 speakers and im thinking on getting a amp to drive FLC and use my denon for FH/FW and side Surround , I Look at the Emotiva UPA-500, will this amp work whit the 4520, i never have a amp but i will like to step into the world of separates, i only have 499.00 to spend on amp, will this improvise the SQ or help the 4520

my speakers are Axiom

VP150 v3 On-Wall Center Channel /Max 200 Watts
M22 v3 On-Wall Speakers FL/FR /Max 200 Watts
6 - M3 v4 On-Wall Speakers FH/FW Side Surround /Max 175 Watts

thanks in advanced

I would save up and invest just a bit more and get the Emotiva XPA5. Emotiva has sales about 3 times a year. My XPA5 drives my FCL and side surrounds. The 4520 drives my heights and rear surrounds.
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post #8110 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATA7 View Post

hey guys i just got the 4520 a week ago and i love it, im using 9 speakers and im thinking on getting a amp to drive FLC and use my denon for FH/FW and side Surround , I Look at the Emotiva UPA-500, will this amp work whit the 4520, i never have a amp but i will like to step into the world of separates, i only have 499.00 to spend on amp, will this improvise the SQ or help the 4520

my speakers are Axiom

VP150 v3 On-Wall Center Channel /Max 200 Watts
M22 v3 On-Wall Speakers FL/FR /Max 200 Watts
6 - M3 v4 On-Wall Speakers FH/FW Side Surround /Max 175 Watts

thanks in advanced

 

What is it that you are expecting an external amp to give you that the amps in the 4520 won't deliver?

 

Are you experiencing clipping or any sort of distortion when you play content to the levels you want to listen at?

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post #8111 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 09:33 AM
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i expect the external amp help my 4520 run more smooth cause the 4520 wont have to run 9 speakers, i listen movies loud around -10db and don't hear any clipping or distortion, like i say i never have a amp but always like to have one they look nice and if it can help my AV on anyway that would great

quattroatl i think the Emotiva XPA5 would be to expensive even in sale would be like 100.00 or 200.00 off, still to expensive

thanks for you help guys

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post #8112 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATA7 View Post

i expect the external amp help my 4520 run more smooth cause the 4520 wont have to run 9 speakers, i listen movies loud around -10db and don't hear any clipping or distortion, like i say i never have a amp but always like to have one they look nice and if it can help my AV on anyway that would great

quattroatl i think the Emotiva XPA5 would be to expensive even in sale would be like 100.00 or 200.00 off, still to expensive

thanks for you help guys

 

If you aren’t hearing any problems with the amps in the 4520, then an external amp isn't likely to make any audible differences for you. Decent modern solid state amps have for a long time been able to pass the input to the output unchanged other than in amplitude, and those in your 4520 are no exception to that. So unless the amps in the 4520 are being driven beyond their design parameters, they will 'sound' no different to another amp being driven also within its design parameters.

 

Of course, adding an external amp won't do any harm either and Emotiva amps are a good choice. If you just fancy the idea of an external amp in the system, then go for it - but if you are expecting any significant gains in SQ, then you will likely be disappointed.

 

The other way to look at the proposed expenditure is whether it could be spent on something which will undoubtedly improve SQ, such as room treatments, or a better sub, or an additional sub if you currently only have one.  Any of those will have the potential to improve the actual SQ, whereas swapping electronics won't.

 

WRT to the UPA-500m it is only rated at 80 wpc all channels driven so it isn't really all that much better than the internal amps in the 4520, if at all. I don't think that that amp would bring any benefits at all over what you already have. A better route IMO would be to go for the XPA-200 which has 150w x 2 and use that for the front L&R channels, letting the 4520 drive the centre and surrounds. It will only cost you another 50 bucks. The XPA-3 would be an even better choice at 200w x 3 and could drive the L, R and Centre channels but this would cost quite a bit more. Remember that you have to double the watts to get a 3dB increase in loudness, so an 80 wpc amp like the UPA-500 isn't going to add anything at all over the 4520, even though it is specced at 80 watts all channels driven. I’d be surprised if the 4520 didn't deliver pretty much 80 watts all channels driven too.

 

IMO I would definitely not spend $399 on a UPA-500 if I had a 4520. Either save up an get an amp with a lot more power, like the two I mention above, or spend the money where you will benefit with better SQ.

 

EDIT: if you are determined to have an external amp, how about the Emotiva UPA-200 - 125w x 2? That would save you 50 bucks compared with the UPA-500 and might stand a slim chance of actually outperforming what you already have in the 4520 (although I doubt if you would hear any difference). Use it to drive the L&R speakers and let the 4520 handle the rest.

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post #8113 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarius View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterK View Post

If you are using subwoofers, then all your speakers need to be set as "small" to properly have the low frequencies routed to the subs.

Is that correct? LFE will still go to the subs, just not L/R lows if you set speakers to large, I would think.

 

It is correct. Take a look at these Audyssey FAQ answers for more info:

 


c)2.   Why do I often see advice to raise the Crossovers to 80Hz?


c)3.   I have big tower speakers at the front. Shouldn't I set these to Large'?


c)5.   What is the LPF of LFE and what should it be set to?

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Ok, read these all. Given that I'm going to be using the powered subs in my L/R/SL/SR should I enable LFE+Mains? All these FAQs assume a separate subwoofer. All the woofers do technically have LFE's in, so I could run an extra RCA to them (and I probably will have to, to the surrounds) but if there's a setting that can avoid extra cabling, shouldn't I use that?

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post #8115 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 01:27 PM
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I have a question about the 4520's headphones out. There are many tests and reviews about the amps in the unit, but I couldn't find any tests and/or comparisons between its HP out with other devices. I've just bought a new pair of headphones - Shure SRH1840, because my old Bose QC2's plastic is in appaling condition (I've glued it with Poxipol more than 10 times already) and I wanted to try open back headphones. So I'd like to know if the HP output in the 4520 is good enough for this high-grade headphones or should I buy a dedicated HP amp? Any comments will be appreciated, thanks smile.gif.
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post #8116 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarius View Post
 
Ok, read these all. Given that I'm going to be using the powered subs in my L/R/SL/SR should I enable LFE+Mains? All these FAQs assume a separate subwoofer. All the woofers do technically have LFE's in, so I could run an extra RCA to them (and I probably will have to, to the surrounds) but if there's a setting that can avoid extra cabling, shouldn't I use that?

 

I'm not the best person to answer that - personally I think subs built into main speakers are a really, really bad idea. Mains have to be positioned for imagining, and that position is rarely the best place for good bass. IMO the flexibility is required to be able to move the sub(s) to where they integrate best with the room and its modes, not to have their location forced by the position the mains happen to be in.  Also, the 'subs' built into speakers will never rival a separate, purpose-designed subwoofer for depth of bass and power - another reason IMO to avoid them.

 

But that ship has already sailed for you and you have the speakers you have. How best to hook them up someone else will have to answer - sorry.

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post #8117 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
 

 

I'm not the best person to answer that - personally I think subs built into main speakers are a really, really bad idea. Mains have to be positioned for imagining, and that position is rarely the best place for good bass. IMO the flexibility is required to be able to move the sub(s) to where they integrate best with the room and its modes, not to have their location forced by the position the mains happen to be in.  Also, the 'subs' built into speakers will never rival a separate, purpose-designed subwoofer for depth of bass and power - another reason IMO to avoid them.

 

But that ship has already sailed for you and you have the speakers you have. How best to hook them up someone else will have to answer - sorry.

I have subs in my speakers and it's not a problem LOL

 


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post #8118 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 01:43 PM
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I'm not the best person to answer that - personally I think subs built into main speakers are a really, really bad idea. Mains have to be positioned for imagining, and that position is rarely the best place for good bass. IMO the flexibility is required to be able to move the sub(s) to where they integrate best with the room and its modes, not to have their location forced by the position the mains happen to be in.  Also, the 'subs' built into speakers will never rival a separate, purpose-designed subwoofer for depth of bass and power - another reason IMO to avoid them.

But that ship has already sailed for you and you have the speakers you have. How best to hook them up someone else will have to answer - sorry.

No worries, appreciate the info so far. They've worked phenomally for me so far, and I've got a relatively small (14x16) rectangular room enclosed by stone/cement/tile on 5 of 6 sides, so a dedicated hard hitter might be too much.(too what? I can't believe I wrote that!?) The four powered integrated subs are pretty nice as well.. 2 Goldenear Triton 2's (2 active 2 passive each w/ 1200wpc amps, and 2 Klipsch RP3's (10" woofers w/ 800wpc amps). I'll give them a year to work out, and if not, it'll be time to look around for some separate subs (SVS or PSAs probably). God knows where I'll put them. The four towers already sit in the four corners. Planning on finally getting it all hooked up tomorrow so we'll see how it goes. The RP3's with a custom 10" sub used to shake the chest in my much larger livingroom.

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post #8119 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

If you aren’t hearing any problems with the amps in the 4520, then an external amp isn't likely to make any audible differences for you. Decent modern solid state amps have for a long time been able to pass the input to the output unchanged other than in amplitude, and those in your 4520 are no exception to that. So unless the amps in the 4520 are being driven beyond their design parameters, they will 'sound' no different to another amp being driven also within its design parameters.

Of course, adding an external amp won't do any harm either and Emotiva amps are a good choice. If you just fancy the idea of an external amp in the system, then go for it - but if you are expecting any significant gains in SQ, then you will likely be disappointed.

The other way to look at the proposed expenditure is whether it could be spent on something which will undoubtedly improve SQ, such as room treatments, or a better sub, or an additional sub if you currently only have one.  Any of those will have the potential to improve the actual SQ, whereas swapping electronics won't.

WRT to the UPA-500m it is only rated at 80 wpc all channels driven so it isn't really all that much better than the internal amps in the 4520, if at all. I don't think that that amp would bring any benefits at all over what you already have. A better route IMO would be to go for the XPA-200 which has 150w x 2 and use that for the front L&R channels, letting the 4520 drive the centre and surrounds. It will only cost you another 50 bucks. The XPA-3 would be an even better choice at 200w x 3 and could drive the L, R and Centre channels but this would cost quite a bit more. Remember that you have to double the watts to get a 3dB increase in loudness, so an 80 wpc amp like the UPA-500 isn't going to add anything at all over the 4520, even though it is specced at 80 watts all channels driven. I’d be surprised if the 4520 didn't deliver pretty much 80 watts all channels driven too.

IMO I would definitely not spend $399 on a UPA-500 if I had a 4520. Either save up an get an amp with a lot more power, like the two I mention above, or spend the money where you will benefit with better SQ.

EDIT: if you are determined to have an external amp, how about the Emotiva UPA-200 - 125w x 2? That would save you 50 bucks compared with the UPA-500 and might stand a slim chance of actually outperforming what you already have in the 4520 (although I doubt if you would hear any difference). Use it to drive the L&R speakers and let the 4520 handle the rest.

thanks a lot for you help man great explanation , i will look on the amp that you recommend and see what i can do

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post #8120 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
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@ Solarius -- I checked google and according to this review your Triton 2's have pretty significant output down to 30Hz and then drop off quickly below that. So If you are truly interesting in plumbing the "subsonic" stuff you would need a dedicated sub, but given your small room you are probably covered in terms of sheer output capabilities down to 30Hz (and maybe a bit lower with some room gain).

Also, since your receiver has XT32, you don't gain the benefit of higher resolution sub filters like you would with lesser versons of Audyssey. And since the subs are all powered you don't have the "easing the load on the amp" benefit to worry about.

With your current config, the LFE/LFE+MAIN setting is actually irrelevant since the receiver doesn't "know" you have a subwoofer -- it should just see four "large" speakers after calibration. In that context, a "subwoofer setting" completely irrelevant since you have no subwoofer (according to the processor). If you DID decide to hook up the LFE inputs then I most certainly would NOT want to use the "double bass" setting (LFE+MAIN) because your main speakers ARE your subwoofer, you'd be copying the same signal twice to the same speaker.

So, bottom line, stick to the LFE setting regardless, not LFE+MAIN. In general that's a good idea but especially so in your case.

So the big question is whether you get BETTER bass response by using the SW outs on the receiver to run to the dedicated RCA LFE inputs on the powered sub portions of the speakers. Without measuring gear it will be hard to say. But there would be two primary advantages:

1) the SW levels would be independent from those of the other speakers, so you could pump up the bass a little bit by adjusting the SW level without also raising the levels of the "tops" of the speakers.

2) the SW channel is EQ'd as a SUMMED response of both SW outs, so you might end up with a flatter bass calibration.

The first point is relatively minor (you might even have sub volume knobs on the speakers so could do it manually) but the second part could be important. Audyssey EQ's each speaker independently, not measuring their combined output. Normally that's not an issue since the mono bass region is handed off to a dedicated SW system. But in your case, with four "large" speakers and no separate SW channel, each speaker is calibrated to be as flat as possible *independently*, but you have no idea how they interact in your room in that low bass region. So each speaker could individually measure perfectly flat, but when you sum all four powered subs together the response may be really lumpy.

If you go with the LFE out method, you would probably want to hook up the two front speakers split off as SW1 and the two surround speakers split off as SW2. Assuming the fronts and surrounds are relatively equidistant to the MLP it should work well; Audyssey would ping each "pair" of subs separately to set distance and delays. Then, it would measure the SUMMED response of all four subs and create an EQ filter to calibrate the entire region. The bass management would be handled digitally in the processor. So you might end up with a more smoothly calibrated bass region by allowing Audyssey to EQ the <100Hz region as a summed response.
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post #8121 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 04:41 PM
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So does anyone have any clue to why I can't connect with Pandora? Never asks for any login info, just tries to authenticate but comes up unable to connect?
Thanks. Pete
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post #8122 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wysiwygbg View Post

I have a question about the 4520's headphones out. There are many tests and reviews about the amps in the unit, but I couldn't find any tests and/or comparisons between its HP out with other devices. I've just bought a new pair of headphones - Shure SRH1840, because my old Bose QC2's plastic is in appaling condition (I've glued it with Poxipol more than 10 times already) and I wanted to try open back headphones. So I'd like to know if the HP output in the 4520 is good enough for this high-grade headphones or should I buy a dedicated HP amp? Any comments will be appreciated, thanks smile.gif.
I have the same pair of Shure headphones and the 4520 drives them just fine. I do have some dedicated HP amps (Schiit Lyr, Schiit Valhalla, Schiit Asgard, and some Firestone Cute-series amps) and I don't think there's enough difference between those amps and the Denon's amp when used with the Shure headphones to be worth their additional expense.
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post #8123 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 05:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PeterK View Post

So does anyone have any clue to why I can't connect with Pandora? Never asks for any login info, just tries to authenticate but comes up unable to connect?
Thanks. Pete

Sorry, wish I could help. I have no issue with the built in Pandora app on my old 2113 and my new X4000.

Maybe at some point when you have some time to spare, to a SAVE of the current settings and then reset the microprocessor (full "deep" reset including the network reset) which will clear out network settings. Then it might let you log in and ask for username/password. Then reload the settings from the saved file so you don't have to rerun Audyssey etc.

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post #8124 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterK View Post

So does anyone have any clue to why I can't connect with Pandora? Never asks for any login info, just tries to authenticate but comes up unable to connect?
Thanks. Pete

Is this just an issue with Pandora or not connecting with the modem/router at all? Have you tried a soft reset by simply unplugging the unit for at least 10 minutes?

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post #8125 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterK View Post

So does anyone have any clue to why I can't connect with Pandora? Never asks for any login info, just tries to authenticate but comes up unable to connect?
Thanks. Pete

Also anything "funny" on your Internet connection? Is upnp enabled on your router? Dunno if that is required or not for Pandora, but except for the huge security holes it opens up no reason not to for a short time to see. Have you tried rebooting/resetting your router and/or network switches?

Smells more like a networking issue to me...
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post #8126 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 06:53 PM
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Well it is weird. My Denon is wired to my router. Very basic setup with just the router, the Denon 4520, a Panasonic Blu-Ray and a Apple Mini direct connected.
All the devices have no problem connecting to the Internet. Pandora works fine on my Apple devices and laptop connected wireless.
I have rebooted the modem and router a couple times.
Will try various resets to the receiver but will be gone for a couple weeks before I can try anything more.
Thought there might be something basic I am missing like requiring the premium version of Pandora as Spotify does with this receiver.
Thanks everyone for the ideas.

Really loving this receiver!
Even the remote keeps amazing me. Constantly finding it does things for controlling all my other devices. Might not even bother setting up my Harmony as this remote easily handles my simple system.
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post #8127 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 08:02 PM
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@ Solarius -- I checked google and according to this review your Triton 2's have pretty significant output down to 30Hz and then drop off quickly below that. So If you are truly interesting in plumbing the "subsonic" stuff you would need a dedicated sub, but given your small room you are probably covered in terms of sheer output capabilities down to 30Hz (and maybe a bit lower with some room gain).

Also, since your receiver has XT32, you don't gain the benefit of higher resolution sub filters like you would with lesser versons of Audyssey. And since the subs are all powered you don't have the "easing the load on the amp" benefit to worry about.

With your current config, the LFE/LFE+MAIN setting is actually irrelevant since the receiver doesn't "know" you have a subwoofer -- it should just see four "large" speakers after calibration. In that context, a "subwoofer setting" completely irrelevant since you have no subwoofer (according to the processor). If you DID decide to hook up the LFE inputs then I most certainly would NOT want to use the "double bass" setting (LFE+MAIN) because your main speakers ARE your subwoofer, you'd be copying the same signal twice to the same speaker.

So, bottom line, stick to the LFE setting regardless, not LFE+MAIN. In general that's a good idea but especially so in your case.

So the big question is whether you get BETTER bass response by using the SW outs on the receiver to run to the dedicated RCA LFE inputs on the powered sub portions of the speakers. Without measuring gear it will be hard to say. But there would be two primary advantages:

1) the SW levels would be independent from those of the other speakers, so you could pump up the bass a little bit by adjusting the SW level without also raising the levels of the "tops" of the speakers.

2) the SW channel is EQ'd as a SUMMED response of both SW outs, so you might end up with a flatter bass calibration.

The first point is relatively minor (you might even have sub volume knobs on the speakers so could do it manually) but the second part could be important. Audyssey EQ's each speaker independently, not measuring their combined output. Normally that's not an issue since the mono bass region is handed off to a dedicated SW system. But in your case, with four "large" speakers and no separate SW channel, each speaker is calibrated to be as flat as possible *independently*, but you have no idea how they interact in your room in that low bass region. So each speaker could individually measure perfectly flat, but when you sum all four powered subs together the response may be really lumpy.

If you go with the LFE out method, you would probably want to hook up the two front speakers split off as SW1 and the two surround speakers split off as SW2. Assuming the fronts and surrounds are relatively equidistant to the MLP it should work well; Audyssey would ping each "pair" of subs separately to set distance and delays. Then, it would measure the SUMMED response of all four subs and create an EQ filter to calibrate the entire region. The bass management would be handled digitally in the processor. So you might end up with a more smoothly calibrated bass region by allowing Audyssey to EQ the <100Hz region as a summed response.

Wow! Thanks! Saved me some trouble there I think. I'm pulling cable tomorrow, If I have enough RCA I'll pull it just so it's there at least. I have been thinking maybe I should have gone with the Triton 7's (no powered subs) and added a dedicated sub. C'est la vie.

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post #8128 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 08:34 PM
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I asked once before and did not get an answer. When I select either Network or Internet Radio on the remote, I get no display on the TV, which is connected to the 4520 using HDMI. I have scoured the Menu, but see no settings that would prevent the network apps from displaying on-screen.

I would appreciate any tips on how to resolve this issue.
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post #8129 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

I asked once before and did not get an answer. When I select either Network or Internet Radio on the remote, I get no display on the TV, which is connected to the 4520 using HDMI. I have scoured the Menu, but see no settings that would prevent the network apps from displaying on-screen.

I would appreciate any tips on how to resolve this issue.
I ran into this exact problem as well. If I remember correctly, there was a setting I had to change in the receiver's Video - Output Settings menu. I could be remembering this wrong, but I think the i/P Scaler setting was set to Analog and I had to turn it to Off to get the display to appear on-screen. Obviously you'll have to do this from the front panel, the web-based GUI, or Denon's iOS or Android (is there an Android version?) remote since the settings won't appear on your display.

Let us know if this helps!
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post #8130 of 8839 Old 05-13-2014, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Schwa View Post


I ran into this exact problem as well. If I remember correctly, there was a setting I had to change in the receiver's Video - Output Settings menu. I could be remembering this wrong, but I think the i/P Scaler setting was set to Analog and I had to turn it to Off to get the display to appear on-screen. Obviously you'll have to do this from the front panel, the web-based GUI, or Denon's iOS or Android (is there an Android version?) remote since the settings won't appear on your display.

Let us know if this helps!


I have tried the video output settings and this doesn't seem to be the answer.

 

Anyone else?

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