The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 291 - AVS Forum
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post #8701 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benga View Post
I feel you, the sound in direct modes is very VERY 'thin', defenitly compared when XT32 is enabled. It get's better on high volumes though ... I have the exact experience with b&w 684's ... not the hardest speakers to drive ... conclusion, I listen to most of my airplayed music with audyssey on @15D b offset ... and subeq works really good with electronic music.
I would never use direct. I measured it once and it had the bass below 120hz down like 12db. I was like ??? And yes that was before my REW issues for those who know about that

I came to the conclusion I will do serious music listening in Stereo for now on. I really like the ambient PLII Music effect from surrounds and the front stage with heights and wides. But With stereo I stay just with my better speakers. But the main reason is...I was doing some comparing to the same song/clips repeated between Stereo and PLII Music. I noticed some subtle effects that sealed the deal for me. On PLII Music I was noticing some of the drums and electric guitar was more "recessed" and "muffled." It was like a muffling blanket was put over them if you were watching live. Back to stereo and they are fully present. I am sure this is that they are stereo soucres and something happens when the PLII Music preset does it's mixing. One song had an electric guitar starting with a very continual picking strum repeatedly. It is very precise and "forward" for lack of better description. Going to PLII Music it honestly is like someone put the guy on the guitar in one of those drum enclosures you see the drummer sitting in sometimes. Those clear Plexiglas enclosures used to dampen the drums sometimes. Just curious if anyone else has noticed these things. It certainly is not along the same lines of "this amp sounds better than the other amp." It is real noticeable differences.
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post #8702 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 01:50 PM
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Most my hifi-nerd friends seems to run with as much processing turned off as possible also for movies. Absolutely no audyssey or similar. Not that strict myself, not yet at least.

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post #8703 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 02:03 PM
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If your room is carefully treated and your speakers (and subs) are highly accurate, then there isn't much left for Audyssey to do. Most people don't have that kind of listening environment, though.
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post #8704 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
If your room is carefully treated and your speakers (and subs) are highly accurate, then there isn't much left for Audyssey to do. Most people don't have that kind of listening environment, though.
Yup -- most of the time turning off Audyssey and other processing is more about "purity" bias than it is about actual objective data.

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post #8705 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 03:24 PM
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I was watching a movie last night when suddenly the picture goes crazy and then nothing. I thought i was my brand new jvc projector wit am hdmi problem. After about 3 hours of double checking the hdmi output on the denon is bad. I am sending it in to a local repair shop in Connecticut. The tech i spoke to said he has replaced many of the hdmi boards. I thought only Onkyo had this kind of problem. I was not sure if i should of sent it to the New Jersey location or not. I hope it is not gone too long since i am using an old onkyo 501 in its place.

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post #8706 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 04:22 PM
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Does anyone know haw many watts the 4520 actually draws? I'm currently using an APC 1300VA UPS with my 3808 and it doesn't come anywhere close to hitting the UPS max of 780 watts. But the 4520 is more powerful so if I need to get an APC 1500VA UPS(which can handle up to 865 watts) I need to put one in place of the 1300VA UPS before my 4520 arrives.

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post #8707 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 04:38 PM
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^^
Likely no more than 100W-110W on average (if that), although perhaps someone with a Kill-O-Watt can chime in.

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post #8708 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 04:41 PM
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OK. Then I should be fine. Thanks.

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post #8709 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post
Does anyone know haw many watts the 4520 actually draws? I'm currently using an APC 1300VA UPS with my 3808 and it doesn't come anywhere close to hitting the UPS max of 780 watts. But the 4520 is more powerful so if I need to get an APC 1500VA UPS(which can handle up to 865 watts) I need to put one in place of the 1300VA UPS before my 4520 arrives.
I don't know if it will be more stateside, but down here (230v), I used a Belkin device to measure (it's available off Amazon), and at idle it's about 25W, and in full tilt it's still less than 150W, but I have subs taking the stress off for the lower frequencies.

I once attached my laptop, Oppo BR player, TV, 4520 and stereo amp to the same socket, and the total draw was less than 700W...
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post #8710 of 8716 Old Yesterday, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post
Does anyone know haw many watts the 4520 actually draws? I'm currently using an APC 1300VA UPS with my 3808 and it doesn't come anywhere close to hitting the UPS max of 780 watts. But the 4520 is more powerful so if I need to get an APC 1500VA UPS(which can handle up to 865 watts) I need to put one in place of the 1300VA UPS before my 4520 arrives.
I have my 4520, 2-channel Onko amp, JVC RS46 projector, PS3, HTPC, router, modem, cooling fans and the rest of my home theater gear (except subs) all running through a 1500 watt APC battery backup without issues. It's usually got 3/5 LED's lit up on the load meter.

I finished the Dexter series finale on battery power one night. (storm...and disappointed in Dexter)

Last edited by Dreamliner; Yesterday at 11:51 PM.
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post #8711 of 8716 Old Today, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
I would never use direct. I measured it once and it had the bass below 120hz down like 12db.

I came to the conclusion I will do serious music listening in Stereo for now on. Back to stereo and they are fully present. I am sure this is that they are stereo soucres and something happens when the PLII Music preset does it's mixing.
Hmmz -12db on 120 hz?? Wow that's extreme and might explain my problem with the direct modi ... When listening in normal stereo do you prefer with or without audyssey engaged? I always tought that is was my speakers sounding muffled in the direct stand, but the fact you have measured this might point out to a 4520 flaw...
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post #8712 of 8716 Old Today, 12:44 AM
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What about your experiences with Multi-channel stereo(9.2 in my case) vs "normal" 2.1 Stereo mode?

Multi-CH. Stereo seems a bit too much overdone on mid and bass, but still I like the sound as a base for further tuning. There seems to be a huge difference between Multi-CH Stereo vs the 2.1 Stereo, anyone have a plausible explanation?
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post #8713 of 8716 Old Today, 02:58 AM
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Multi CH Stereo simply passes the same 2.0 signal going to the FL/FR speakers to each of the other 3 pairs of speakers you are using.

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post #8714 of 8716 Old Today, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Multi CH Stereo simply passes the same 2.0 signal going to the FL/FR speakers to each of the other 3 pairs of speakers you are using.
Well, that seems strange as I can defintely hear a distinct difference in bass output, and it seems more than just the higher volume due to more speakers. With multi channel stereo I need to bring soruce input level down by -10db to be equal to the Stereo mode output. Stereo with FR/FL(KEF IQ90) + my 2 subs seems very thin compared to the 9.2 output with multichannel stereo. Do you all experience the same i.e. A/B listen, not just the theory?
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post #8715 of 8716 Old Today, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I have my 4520, 2-channel Onko amp, JVC RS46 projector, PS3, HTPC, router, modem, cooling fans and the rest of my home theater gear (except subs) all running through a 1500 watt APC battery backup without issues. It's usually got 3/5 LED's lit up on the load meter.

I finished the Dexter series finale on battery power one night. (storm...and disappointed in Dexter)
Thanks. I forgot how little power the receivers draw. My 3808 last night didn't go higher than 170 watts when I was looking at it. ANd that was only when I had a loud section from a BD. I have one 1300VA UPS dedicated to my receiver, one 1500VA UPS dedicated to my subwoofer and then a couple of the 1500VA UPSs, with extended runtime batteries, dedicated to everything else in my main display area.

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post #8716 of 8716 Old Today, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post
Thanks. I forgot how little power the receivers draw. My 3808 last night didn't go higher than 170 watts when I was looking at it. ANd that was only when I had a loud section from a BD. I have one 1300VA UPS dedicated to my receiver, one 1500VA UPS dedicated to my subwoofer and then a couple of the 1500VA UPSs, with extended runtime batteries, dedicated to everything else in my main display area.
Aaron, that sounds about right extrapolating from my experience. I have my AVR-3311CI (driving 7 speakers), an AMP-100 (driving 4 speakers), and a TiVo Premiere Elite all on battery-backup outlets on a CyberPower CP825AVRG (450W). The highest power draw I've been able to measure has been between 130 to 140W, and that's at ear-splitting levels in the main zone; otherwise it seldom goes over about 110W. I have the rest of the AV gear in my main zone on a separate CyberPower CP550SLG (330W) with the SW on a surge-only protected outlet. I like CyberPower for their user-friendly PowerPanel UI, which allows me to monitor battery performance via USB to a laptop without having to access the UPS itself, which sits out of view behind my wall unit.

I don't know what your requirements are, but I am jealous of the resources you are devoting to UPS backup. I know you've had a little bad luck lately with water damage and a broken windshield, and it's too bad your UPS's couldn't have helped with those incidents.

BTW, as you know replacement batteries--particularly on the larger UPS's--can be rather expensive. I've had good results buying non-OEM batteries from this eBay seller. If they carry the suitable battery for your 1300/1500VA UPS's, you can probably get replacements for around $20 shipped, which is about one-half what you'd pay at a retail store.
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