The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 330 - AVS Forum
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post #9871 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Rpml View Post
I am kind of surprised after all those problems you would still go with another denon. On this page alone 3-4 people posted problems they have had.. I think i am a bit wary of them after my 3805 and now the DOA 4520.. going to start looking at other brands today.
This sort of thing is normal for any electronics. No affordable consumer electronics are 100% tested. QC processes generally involve testing of a representative sample, usually per lot. The rule I have lived by for several decades is, electronics either are DOA, work for less than a month or work virtually forever. Generalizing of course. In recent years I have had to adjust the last option to "until obsolete".

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Originally Posted by PeterK View Post
Not sure why there have been the recent posts on faulty 4520s. I have been an owner for almost a year now and have read this entire thread. The people with issues up until the last month have been very few. Just wonder how many of these end of season shipments from BB are actually repackaged and resealed units for there to be so many problems?
Mine had to have been in a new box with a new or unused Audyssey mic if this were the case.

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Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post
FWIW, I just got an X5200 and it was DOA; I'm currently waiting on a replacement unit.

There is nothing inherently errant in either the 4520 or X5200 that I know of; but the nature of consumer electronics and mass production QA simply leads to a certain number of units that will have defects. Denon has a pretty good track record and they back these higher-end units with a 3-year warranty so that should give you new owners some peace of mind.

Dealing with these issues can be a hassle, but it's just something you have to be prepared for regardless of how much due diligence you perform before purchasing.
I was prepared for a reasonable set of issues and I always figure there is a nonzero probabilty that any CE purchase will come out of the box DOA. I also don't think there is anything inherently wrong with either unit. In a former life I was a proces engineer at a manufacturing co. that did robotic assembly of computer components like memory, motherboards, graphic cards, etc. and have some insight on late-production issues. Most of the time the greatest care in manufacturing and testing is very early in the product cycle. My 4520 was built in May '14, probably using up the last of the chipsets/bare boards/etc. By the time production on an item is drawing to a close, there is generally a bit of scavenging going on. Daughterboards that failed an initial check but passed after some rework, chips that were found hiding in the stockroom, tendency toward sloppiness because the product is "old hat" plus pressures to set the line up for the next product are all factors that can impact the quality of the end product. It's all part of the landscape and generally not a problem.

My primary issue, the reason I abandoned the 4520 route, is that the window for "bring it back for a replacement if it doesn't work" had for all intents and purposes closed. On top of that I live on top of a mountain 45 minutes from the nearest BB(Assuming no traffic) so add that to the hassle of unwiring/rewiring/reconfig. I think I articulated the rest of my reasons back in post #9797 .

I don't think it would be fair for the recent concentration of issues to be interpreted as some basic flaw in 4520s in general. The internet tends to magnify such issues anyway, since few people will seek out threads like this just to say that their 4520 has been unobtrusively doing what it is supposed to for two years.
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post #9872 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by curttard View Post
To be fair, the only issue I have had is the loose connections made at the HDMI jacks. I had this problem with my Yamaha as well, and in fact the failure of 3 of the 4 jacks on that one -- and the intermittent functioning of the only remaining one -- is why I bought the Denon in the first place.

HDMI jacks are always terrible. These seem a bit worse than most, maybe. At least on mine.
Get a grip! No, seriously, get a grip: Accell makes a series of HDMI cables called AVGrip PRO that work like a charm. They come in various sizes and flavors (the link is to the model that I have used and found effective) and tend to be a bit pricy compared to run-of-the-mill cables, but they will hold on nicely to the female port until you manually release them.
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post #9873 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by curttard View Post
I have the same issue. I watched a loud action movie the other night and had the volume at -7.5. Even then I actually would have preferred it louder, but while the overall volume wasn't excessive to me, the high end was getting uncomfortable at that point. Watching True Detective on Bluray, I was at iirc -2, and could easily have gone higher. I have everything off except for Dynamic EQ (which I have tried both on and off).



Yes, which is why I said "HDMI jacks are always terrible". I am using the port savers from Monoprice. They haven't helped, because they themselves are making just as tenuous a connection with the 4520.
If you are using heavy HDMI cables you can't hang them directly off a device. You need to relieve some of the tension. The few heavy ones I have used over the years have never caused any issues. Because I would tyrap it to something a foot or so away from the HDMI connection which relieves the tension.
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post #9874 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 02:12 PM
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BTW, I meant to add -- along the lines of "Works forever"... I still have the Onkyo TA-630D cassette deck that I bought in about 1978. It's all wire-wrap tech inside, and finding belts is a bit of a challenge when one breaks, but I'm probably going to keep it around as an example of "the way things were built in the good old days" even after I get to the point where I never use it.
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post #9875 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post
if there are any in the BB store by Black Friday

my guess is that they will be well below the $1K price that is available now..
To clarify, I don't think BBY will have any left and the Black Friday deals will be online.
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post #9876 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Zen Traveler View Post
To clarify, I don't think BBY will have any left and the Black Friday deals will be online.
time will tell

historically I have purchased

A Denon 4310, Pioneer SC 25,35,37,57,65,67 and a Yamaha A2010, A820( and a few others I think) during BF week or right after Christmas for about 65-75% off MSRP from Magnolia Home Theater


Warren

Rm 1 Samsung 64F8500 Onkyo 5508 prepro Sherbourn 5/1500A amp Atlantic technology System 350 THX Ultra speakers
Rm 2 LG 47LE8500 Pioneer SC37 Celestion 305 speaker system
Rm 3 Samsung 51E8000 Yamaha A2010 Kef 2005.2 speaker system
Rm 4 Panasonic 50ST50 Onkyo 5009/906 Mirage Omni sat speaker system
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post #9877 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by batpig View Post
Ah.. "Why" makes a lot more sense than "what".

By its nature, Dynamic Volume tries to restrict loud stuff. The whole point is to reduce the swings from soft stuff to loud stuff. So if you are trying to play your system loud, you need to turn it off. Otherwise you will keep cranking the volume and DV will be workign against you.

The same is true for any other limiting/compression scheme like DRC.

The flip side is that Dynamic Volume makes it easier to hear the soft stuff, so while you may have to turn it up to -20 to hear the dialogue clearly with Dynamic Volume off, with DV turned on you may be able to listen comfortable at -40. Now of course you won't get much visceral impact from explosions and stuff at that volume level, but the point of DV is to keep things level so you don't disturb wife/kids/neighbors.

Thanks. Good news. I was afraid there was an issue with Dynamic Volume that I didn't know about.


As a couple of "senior citizens", we could not be happier with the Audyssey "suite" (xt32, dynamic EQ, and dynamic volume) plus dialogue enhancer. With xt32 and dialogue enhancer we can now listen to movies without straining to understand the words. Dynamic EQ provides good balance even at lower volumes. Finally, dynamic volume is the "frosting on the cake". My wife gets bad headaches at loud sounds. Previously if volume was high enough for us to hear the dialogue, any bombs/gun shots (even loud shouts) in action tv shows/movies and she had to leave the room with a headache. Even loud volume from commercials could cause problems. Because of Dynamic volume (currently on medium), her issues with loud sounds have been pretty much resolved.
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post #9878 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 03:25 PM
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Wink

I think the real question is: can a digital signal path employing state-of-the-art MultEQ32 room correction, bass management, etc. match, or beat, a pristine analog-only signal path using very good components? This is a very difficult question to answer, and depends on other factors, like your listening room and its treatments. The only way I know would be to audition both systems in your home and make a decision.[/QUOTE]

Hi Jerry if you are in Plano any Time please feel free to come over for an audition. I can use some expertise on how to set up the best listening environment in my room without upsetting the wife ;-) ;-).

Neal
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post #9879 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post
time will tell

historically I have purchased

A Denon 4310, Pioneer SC 25,35,37,57,65,67 and a Yamaha A2010, A820( and a few others I think) during BF week or right after Christmas for about 65-75% off MSRP from Magnolia Home Theater


Warren
Hi Warren, As previously requested please let us NOOBs know when you find out about these deals. I am in Texas so I am not competing with you to buy the same equipment ;-) ;-).
I am saving up for BF at BB LOL.
Thanks.

Neal
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post #9880 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AVSF458 View Post
I think the real question is: can a digital signal path employing state-of-the-art MultEQ32 room correction, bass management, etc. match, or beat, a pristine analog-only signal path using very good components? This is a very difficult question to answer, and depends on other factors, like your listening room and its treatments. The only way I know would be to audition both systems in your home and make a decision.
Hi Jerry if you are in Plano any Time please feel free to come over for an audition. I can use some expertise on how to set up the best listening environment in my room without upsetting the wife ;-) ;-).

Neal[/QUOTE]

Hey, Neal, if you mean me, then thanks for the kind invitation. I don't get up that direction too often, so I don't know when we might meet.

As far as which of your two examples would win out, only careful listening tests combined with objective measurements will tell. It is a debate that has come up many times before, and surely will continue into the future.

In my case, even though I have expended a lot of effort on careful room treatments, automated room correction continues to add significant improvement. My primary interest is music, and it is much easier to hear improvements when listening to music than when listening to movies.

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post #9881 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 09:05 PM
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Gentlemen. I have recently got a projector setup for the main zone. I have my Panasonic TV in the next room now. I also have a computer monitor mounted on an Ergatron arm in the same room as my HT setup. So I am just figuring out how to connect everything best. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated! The TV in the next room is now the bedroom tv and we plan on getting a sound bar for some sort of "better" sound than the ones in the TV firing into the rear wall. Best buy had a Samsung and LG sound bar each with a wireless subwoofer for a decent little price and both sounded pretty decent. I also like this because an HDMI routed to that TV will send both the audio/video and the sound bar connects to the audio out on the tv is all. So no need for an extra AVR, amp or anything at all. But I notice that Zone 4 is the only HDMI out besides the main zone. And the comp monitor in the HT room is often used on a different input than the main zone so I have it on zone 4 right now. Sound to that monitor could possibly be important for gaming purposes as well. So I thought about just hooking the long HDMI routed the tv in the bedroom on the HDMI out titled "Monitor 2" I think this is best because the TV in the bedroom will most likely never be used the same time as the Main zone projector. The ideal situation would be...To get audio and video via HDMI to all three and the ability to have each on it's own input. Another thought is to have the PS3 for gaming on zone 2 with the red/green/blue input and get a wireless bluetooth headset that communicates the audio directly with the PS3.

So your experienced opinions would greatly be appreciated.

And one thing I don't know is, "Can 3 different zones all be on at the same time?" Like main, Z2 and Z4?

DIY Sound Group Volt 10 surround speaker build

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post #9882 of 9882 Old Yesterday, 11:43 PM
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AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGG!

FInally got this thing all hooked up to test it tonight and the first thing I'm dealing with is that every few seconds the hdmi signal to my projector seems to cut out. It goes out and then comes back again ...

I'm running hdmi from my oppo 93 to the denon and then from the denon's "monitor out" to my projector ...

Any ideas as to why the signal repeatedly drops out and then back in again? Must I return my baby? Please advise!

Also ... no sound. Went through the whole setup to configure my 7.2 speakers and the Denon says "Blu Ray Stereo" and I get no sound ....

One bright note ... while actually playing a movie the picture does not cut out, and oddly looks better than I can ever remember it looking before ... if only there were sound.

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post #9883 of 9882 Old Today, 01:04 AM
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AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGG!

FInally got this thing all hooked up to test it tonight and the first thing I'm dealing with is that every few seconds the hdmi signal to my projector seems to cut out. It goes out and then comes back again ...

I'm running hdmi from my oppo 93 to the denon and then from the denon's "monitor out" to my projector ...

Any ideas as to why the signal repeatedly drops out and then back in again? Must I return my baby? Please advise!

Also ... no sound. Went through the whole setup to configure my 7.2 speakers and the Denon says "Blu Ray Stereo" and I get no sound ....

One bright note ... while actually playing a movie the picture does not cut out, and oddly looks better than I can ever remember it looking before ... if only there were sound.
I was having the same issue with my unit. Appeared to be an HDMI handshake issue, and I wasn't sure whether it was the receiver, the TV or the cable. The cable had run straight from dish to the TV before, but I eliminated the dish box and the cable that was added when inserting the AVR in the chain since all inputs did the same thing. I was able to work around it by power cycling the TV. Try a different source, like BD player straight to projector using the same connector that was plugged into the AVR. That will at least tell you whether the problem is the AVR or downstream.
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