The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 330 - AVS Forum
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post #9871 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by curttard View Post
To be fair, the only issue I have had is the loose connections made at the HDMI jacks. I had this problem with my Yamaha as well, and in fact the failure of 3 of the 4 jacks on that one -- and the intermittent functioning of the only remaining one -- is why I bought the Denon in the first place.

HDMI jacks are always terrible. These seem a bit worse than most, maybe. At least on mine.
Get a grip! No, seriously, get a grip: Accell makes a series of HDMI cables called AVGrip PRO that work like a charm. They come in various sizes and flavors (the link is to the model that I have used and found effective) and tend to be a bit pricy compared to run-of-the-mill cables, but they will hold on nicely to the female port until you manually release them.
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post #9872 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by curttard View Post
I have the same issue. I watched a loud action movie the other night and had the volume at -7.5. Even then I actually would have preferred it louder, but while the overall volume wasn't excessive to me, the high end was getting uncomfortable at that point. Watching True Detective on Bluray, I was at iirc -2, and could easily have gone higher. I have everything off except for Dynamic EQ (which I have tried both on and off).



Yes, which is why I said "HDMI jacks are always terrible". I am using the port savers from Monoprice. They haven't helped, because they themselves are making just as tenuous a connection with the 4520.
If you are using heavy HDMI cables you can't hang them directly off a device. You need to relieve some of the tension. The few heavy ones I have used over the years have never caused any issues. Because I would tyrap it to something a foot or so away from the HDMI connection which relieves the tension.
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post #9873 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 02:12 PM
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BTW, I meant to add -- along the lines of "Works forever"... I still have the Onkyo TA-630D cassette deck that I bought in about 1978. It's all wire-wrap tech inside, and finding belts is a bit of a challenge when one breaks, but I'm probably going to keep it around as an example of "the way things were built in the good old days" even after I get to the point where I never use it.
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post #9874 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post
if there are any in the BB store by Black Friday

my guess is that they will be well below the $1K price that is available now..
To clarify, I don't think BBY will have any left and the Black Friday deals will be online.
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post #9875 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Zen Traveler View Post
To clarify, I don't think BBY will have any left and the Black Friday deals will be online.
time will tell

historically I have purchased

A Denon 4310, Pioneer SC 25,35,37,57,65,67 and a Yamaha A2010, A820( and a few others I think) during BF week or right after Christmas for about 65-75% off MSRP from Magnolia Home Theater


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Rm 2 LG 47LE8500 Pioneer SC37 Celestion 305 speaker system
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post #9876 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by batpig View Post
Ah.. "Why" makes a lot more sense than "what".

By its nature, Dynamic Volume tries to restrict loud stuff. The whole point is to reduce the swings from soft stuff to loud stuff. So if you are trying to play your system loud, you need to turn it off. Otherwise you will keep cranking the volume and DV will be workign against you.

The same is true for any other limiting/compression scheme like DRC.

The flip side is that Dynamic Volume makes it easier to hear the soft stuff, so while you may have to turn it up to -20 to hear the dialogue clearly with Dynamic Volume off, with DV turned on you may be able to listen comfortable at -40. Now of course you won't get much visceral impact from explosions and stuff at that volume level, but the point of DV is to keep things level so you don't disturb wife/kids/neighbors.

Thanks. Good news. I was afraid there was an issue with Dynamic Volume that I didn't know about.


As a couple of "senior citizens", we could not be happier with the Audyssey "suite" (xt32, dynamic EQ, and dynamic volume) plus dialogue enhancer. With xt32 and dialogue enhancer we can now listen to movies without straining to understand the words. Dynamic EQ provides good balance even at lower volumes. Finally, dynamic volume is the "frosting on the cake". My wife gets bad headaches at loud sounds. Previously if volume was high enough for us to hear the dialogue, any bombs/gun shots (even loud shouts) in action tv shows/movies and she had to leave the room with a headache. Even loud volume from commercials could cause problems. Because of Dynamic volume (currently on medium), her issues with loud sounds have been pretty much resolved.
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post #9877 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 03:25 PM
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Wink

I think the real question is: can a digital signal path employing state-of-the-art MultEQ32 room correction, bass management, etc. match, or beat, a pristine analog-only signal path using very good components? This is a very difficult question to answer, and depends on other factors, like your listening room and its treatments. The only way I know would be to audition both systems in your home and make a decision.[/QUOTE]

Hi Jerry if you are in Plano any Time please feel free to come over for an audition. I can use some expertise on how to set up the best listening environment in my room without upsetting the wife ;-) ;-).

Neal
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post #9878 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by turnne1 View Post
time will tell

historically I have purchased

A Denon 4310, Pioneer SC 25,35,37,57,65,67 and a Yamaha A2010, A820( and a few others I think) during BF week or right after Christmas for about 65-75% off MSRP from Magnolia Home Theater


Warren
Hi Warren, As previously requested please let us NOOBs know when you find out about these deals. I am in Texas so I am not competing with you to buy the same equipment ;-) ;-).
I am saving up for BF at BB LOL.
Thanks.

Neal
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post #9879 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVSF458 View Post
I think the real question is: can a digital signal path employing state-of-the-art MultEQ32 room correction, bass management, etc. match, or beat, a pristine analog-only signal path using very good components? This is a very difficult question to answer, and depends on other factors, like your listening room and its treatments. The only way I know would be to audition both systems in your home and make a decision.
Hi Jerry if you are in Plano any Time please feel free to come over for an audition. I can use some expertise on how to set up the best listening environment in my room without upsetting the wife ;-) ;-).

Neal[/QUOTE]

Hey, Neal, if you mean me, then thanks for the kind invitation. I don't get up that direction too often, so I don't know when we might meet.

As far as which of your two examples would win out, only careful listening tests combined with objective measurements will tell. It is a debate that has come up many times before, and surely will continue into the future.

In my case, even though I have expended a lot of effort on careful room treatments, automated room correction continues to add significant improvement. My primary interest is music, and it is much easier to hear improvements when listening to music than when listening to movies.

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post #9880 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 09:05 PM
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Gentlemen. I have recently got a projector setup for the main zone. I have my Panasonic TV in the next room now. I also have a computer monitor mounted on an Ergatron arm in the same room as my HT setup. So I am just figuring out how to connect everything best. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated! The TV in the next room is now the bedroom tv and we plan on getting a sound bar for some sort of "better" sound than the ones in the TV firing into the rear wall. Best buy had a Samsung and LG sound bar each with a wireless subwoofer for a decent little price and both sounded pretty decent. I also like this because an HDMI routed to that TV will send both the audio/video and the sound bar connects to the audio out on the tv is all. So no need for an extra AVR, amp or anything at all. But I notice that Zone 4 is the only HDMI out besides the main zone. And the comp monitor in the HT room is often used on a different input than the main zone so I have it on zone 4 right now. Sound to that monitor could possibly be important for gaming purposes as well. So I thought about just hooking the long HDMI routed the tv in the bedroom on the HDMI out titled "Monitor 2" I think this is best because the TV in the bedroom will most likely never be used the same time as the Main zone projector. The ideal situation would be...To get audio and video via HDMI to all three and the ability to have each on it's own input. Another thought is to have the PS3 for gaming on zone 2 with the red/green/blue input and get a wireless bluetooth headset that communicates the audio directly with the PS3.

So your experienced opinions would greatly be appreciated.

And one thing I don't know is, "Can 3 different zones all be on at the same time?" Like main, Z2 and Z4?

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post #9881 of 9890 Old Yesterday, 11:43 PM
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AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGG!

FInally got this thing all hooked up to test it tonight and the first thing I'm dealing with is that every few seconds the hdmi signal to my projector seems to cut out. It goes out and then comes back again ...

I'm running hdmi from my oppo 93 to the denon and then from the denon's "monitor out" to my projector ...

Any ideas as to why the signal repeatedly drops out and then back in again? Must I return my baby? Please advise!

Also ... no sound. Went through the whole setup to configure my 7.2 speakers and the Denon says "Blu Ray Stereo" and I get no sound ....

One bright note ... while actually playing a movie the picture does not cut out, and oddly looks better than I can ever remember it looking before ... if only there were sound.

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post #9882 of 9890 Old Today, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post
AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGG!

FInally got this thing all hooked up to test it tonight and the first thing I'm dealing with is that every few seconds the hdmi signal to my projector seems to cut out. It goes out and then comes back again ...

I'm running hdmi from my oppo 93 to the denon and then from the denon's "monitor out" to my projector ...

Any ideas as to why the signal repeatedly drops out and then back in again? Must I return my baby? Please advise!

Also ... no sound. Went through the whole setup to configure my 7.2 speakers and the Denon says "Blu Ray Stereo" and I get no sound ....

One bright note ... while actually playing a movie the picture does not cut out, and oddly looks better than I can ever remember it looking before ... if only there were sound.
I was having the same issue with my unit. Appeared to be an HDMI handshake issue, and I wasn't sure whether it was the receiver, the TV or the cable. The cable had run straight from dish to the TV before, but I eliminated the dish box and the cable that was added when inserting the AVR in the chain since all inputs did the same thing. I was able to work around it by power cycling the TV. Try a different source, like BD player straight to projector using the same connector that was plugged into the AVR. That will at least tell you whether the problem is the AVR or downstream.
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post #9883 of 9890 Old Today, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda View Post
Can someone help with this configuration.

I have a Raspberry Pi connected as my media streamer. The Raspberry Pi uses my TV CEC and that allows me to control the Raspberry Pi using my TV remote. My Pi is connected to my Denon on the Media Player input and my TV remote works the Pi. I now want to use just my Denon remote. Problem is that I cannot configure Media Player to use Sony Bravia TV IR remote codes. And when I press TV audio the Demon moves to the TV Audio arc input.
My work around so far has been, press Media Player button on the remote to get the Pis video on the screen, then hide the IT transmitter of the remote and press TV audio, then I can use the remote to control the Pi while keeping it on the input.

Any ideas, to either get a TV code put on any of the inputs or to configure the Pi to work with the AVRs remote.
No one?
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post #9884 of 9890 Old Today, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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No one?
Universal remote.

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post #9885 of 9890 Old Today, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Gentlemen. I have recently got a projector setup for the main zone. I have my Panasonic TV in the next room now. I also have a computer monitor mounted on an Ergatron arm in the same room as my HT setup. So I am just figuring out how to connect everything best. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated! The TV in the next room is now the bedroom tv and we plan on getting a sound bar for some sort of "better" sound than the ones in the TV firing into the rear wall. Best buy had a Samsung and LG sound bar each with a wireless subwoofer for a decent little price and both sounded pretty decent. I also like this because an HDMI routed to that TV will send both the audio/video and the sound bar connects to the audio out on the tv is all. So no need for an extra AVR, amp or anything at all. But I notice that Zone 4 is the only HDMI out besides the main zone. And the comp monitor in the HT room is often used on a different input than the main zone so I have it on zone 4 right now. Sound to that monitor could possibly be important for gaming purposes as well. So I thought about just hooking the long HDMI routed the tv in the bedroom on the HDMI out titled "Monitor 2" I think this is best because the TV in the bedroom will most likely never be used the same time as the Main zone projector. The ideal situation would be...To get audio and video via HDMI to all three and the ability to have each on it's own input. Another thought is to have the PS3 for gaming on zone 2 with the red/green/blue input and get a wireless bluetooth headset that communicates the audio directly with the PS3.

So your experienced opinions would greatly be appreciated.

And one thing I don't know is, "Can 3 different zones all be on at the same time?" Like main, Z2 and Z4?
The only independent HDMI output is the Zone 4 HDMI. The other two are both for main zone displays and are parallel (can't be different sources).

You get another video zone by assigning the component video output to zone 2/3 but there is no HDMI video down mix so it wouldn't help with most inputs.

You could put the bedroom tv on the monitor 2 output and use standby passthrough to send the signal when the receiver is powered off in the PJ room. Or if you've got an iPad or laptop handy you could manually change the HDMI Audio setting from AMP to TV so the audio passes through.

Zone 4 HDMI is pure passthrough (no processing, just a matrix switch) so it will always send audio+video through. The main zone HDMI outputs are primarily configured to strip audio and pass video only to display, so you need to manually change that HDMI Audio setting.

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post #9886 of 9890 Old Today, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by AVSF458 View Post
Hi Warren, As previously requested please let us NOOBs know when you find out about these deals. I am in Texas so I am not competing with you to buy the same equipment ;-) ;-).
I am saving up for BF at BB LOL.
Thanks.

Neal
will be happy to send out info as I know more

I was just in north Texas( this week) and will be there for the holidays as its where I am originally from


Warren

Rm 1 Samsung 64F8500 Onkyo 5508 prepro Sherbourn 5/1500A amp Atlantic technology System 350 THX Ultra speakers
Rm 2 LG 47LE8500 Pioneer SC37 Celestion 305 speaker system
Rm 3 Samsung 51E8000 Yamaha A2010 Kef 2005.2 speaker system
Rm 4 Panasonic 50ST50 Onkyo 5009/906 Mirage Omni sat speaker system
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So ... the no sound thing that I'm having ... I'm wondering if maybe the Denon could be sending the hdmi sound signal on to my projector instead of amping it to my speakers ... which is why the Denon is reporting the signal as "Blu-ray stereo" ...

Is there a setting I can check to see if this is in fact the case? Can anyone give me a quick guide to getting the denon to amp a 7.1 hdmi signal from a blu-ray player?
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post #9888 of 9890 Old Today, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post
The only independent HDMI output is the Zone 4 HDMI. The other two are both for main zone displays and are parallel (can't be different sources).

You get another video zone by assigning the component video output to zone 2/3 but there is no HDMI video down mix so it wouldn't help with most inputs.

You could put the bedroom tv on the monitor 2 output and use standby passthrough to send the signal when the receiver is powered off in the PJ room. Or if you've got an iPad or laptop handy you could manually change the HDMI Audio setting from AMP to TV so the audio passes through.

Zone 4 HDMI is pure passthrough (no processing, just a matrix switch) so it will always send audio+video through. The main zone HDMI outputs are primarily configured to strip audio and pass video only to display, so you need to manually change that HDMI Audio setting.
Roger that BP! It is cool even if I have to switch that setting with having the bedroom set on Monitor 2.

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post #9889 of 9890 Old Today, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangled Cable View Post
So ... the no sound thing that I'm having ... I'm wondering if maybe the Denon could be sending the hdmi sound signal on to my projector instead of amping it to my speakers ... which is why the Denon is reporting the signal as "Blu-ray stereo" ...

Is there a setting I can check to see if this is in fact the case? Can anyone give me a quick guide to getting the denon to amp a 7.1 hdmi signal from a blu-ray player?
The HDMI audio setting defaults to AMP (not passing it through to the TV) so I doubt that's it.

Can you be a little more specific about "no sound". Does the receiver output sound with the test tones? Were you able to complete Audyssey calibration? If so, it appears that the receiver isn't "broken" in the sense that it can physically send audio to the speakers. That means it's either a device setting or incompatilibity / HDMI handshake type of problem.

There isn't a need for a guide to setting it up because HDMI audio should really be plug and play.

Does it happen with all sources? just HDMI? Can you troubleshoot by for example trying a network audio stream or just plugging something into the front AUX inputs with an analog RCA cable?

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post #9890 of 9890 Old Today, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post
Get a grip! No, seriously, get a grip: Accell makes a series of HDMI cables called AVGrip PRO that work like a charm. They come in various sizes and flavors (the link is to the model that I have used and found effective) and tend to be a bit pricy compared to run-of-the-mill cables, but they will hold on nicely to the female port until you manually release them.
These look great but there doesn't seem to be an extension cord version. I'm not replacing my cables, I just want a 1-3ft extension to get a nice connection to the receiver.
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