The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 344 - AVS Forum
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post #10291 of 10824 Old 11-02-2014, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
TorTorden, you are only confusing things. The LPF for LFE is a low pass filter that affects only the LFE channel, and restricts what frequencies that are in the LFE channel from being passed to the sub.

In addition to LFE signals, the subs receive re-directed bass from all channels set to "small". The frequency at which this re-direction occurs is the crossover identified in the AVR as Front, Center, Surround, etc. IOW, a Front crossover of 80Hz is a crossover between the Front speakers and the sub. That is why you don't see a crossover for the sub, because what nonsense would a sub to sub crossover be?

The AVR manufacturers have done their customers a huge injustice by including the LPF for LFE setting, because it is the most misunderstood setting.
OK ... now that we've established that there is no Subwoofer Crossover setting, should the Individual Speaker Selection Crossovers remain at the current settings? Or, should I switch to "ALL" and select the 80Hz setting.

BTW, I lowered the LPF for LFE to 100Hz (there seems to be some merit in seeking something between 120Hz and 80Hz).
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post #10292 of 10824 Old 11-02-2014, 04:07 PM
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I use a 60Hz crossover for my SVS mains and then use an 80 Hz crossover for my SVS center and SVS four surround speakers as well as with my Axiom Front Heights.

I'm still toying with the idea of getting a second SVS sub to compliment my ancient SVS sub from 2003. But the calibration with the 4520 has done a superb job with the one sub woofer so I'm not sure when I will get another SVS sub.
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post #10293 of 10824 Old 11-02-2014, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herbg View Post
OK ... now that we've established that there is no Subwoofer Crossover setting, should the Individual Speaker Selection Crossovers remain at the current settings? Or, should I switch to "ALL" and select the 80Hz setting.

BTW, I lowered the LPF for LFE to 100Hz (there seems to be some merit in seeking something between 120Hz and 80Hz).
You may establish whatever crossover you want between the individual speakers and the sub. A typical selection would be 80Hz for all the speakers (unless Audyssey sets a higher crossover value, in which case you should not lower the crossover). Depending on the capabilities of your main speakers, you might select a lower value, say 60Hz, but you should experiment and select the value you feel provides the best sound. Remember, your sub is designed to for handling the low frequencies, in most cases better than your mains, so let them do their job.

Lowering the LPF for LFE to 100 Hz is likely not going to have any audible improvement whatsoever. I would leave it at the default, and recommended, value of 120Hz. If you can cite a source that recommends a lower LPF, then please do so. There have been several discussions that lowering the LPF to 80Hz filters out some unwanted signals in the LFE channel on some poorly-engineering music sources, but as a general rule this doesn't apply for movie content.
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post #10294 of 10824 Old 11-02-2014, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
You may establish whatever crossover you want between the individual speakers and the sub. A typical selection would be 80Hz for all the speakers (unless Audyssey sets a higher crossover value, in which case you should not lower the crossover). Depending on the capabilities of your main speakers, you might select a lower value, say 60Hz, but you should experiment and select the value you feel provides the best sound. Remember, your sub is designed to for handling the low frequencies, in most cases better than your mains, so let them do their job.

Lowering the LPF for LFE to 100 Hz is likely not going to have any audible improvement whatsoever. I would leave it at the default, and recommended, value of 120Hz. If you can cite a source that recommends a lower LPF, then please do so. There have been several discussions that lowering the LPF to 80Hz filters out some unwanted signals in the LFE channel on some poorly-engineering music sources, but as a general rule this doesn't apply for movie content.
All good points. Set LPF for LFE back to 120Hz. I also bumped up the Crossovers for the Fronts from 40Hz to 60Hz. Left the Center @ 60Hz and bumped the Surrounds to 60Hz.

I have a 2nd ML BalancedForce 210 arriving this week so I will be doing another Audyssey calibration soon.
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post #10295 of 10824 Old 11-02-2014, 07:34 PM
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I run my mains and center on small and 80hz, and the LPF on 120 hz.

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post #10296 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
I run my mains and center on small and 80hz, and the LPF on 120 hz.
Me to I run everything at 80hz and lpf at 120.
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post #10297 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 06:33 AM
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I have not had anymore green screens with the audio issues. I stopped using the denon app and been only using the supplied remote. So maybe the 4520 gets confused through ip control. I do notice on the app that there are functions that do not relate to the 4520 too. I will keep an eye on it.
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post #10298 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
TorTorden, you are only confusing things. The LPF for LFE is a low pass filter that affects only the LFE channel, and restricts what frequencies that are in the LFE channel from being passed to the sub.
....

...
The AVR manufacturers have done their customers a huge injustice by including the LPF for LFE setting, because it is the most misunderstood setting.
Sry, just wanting to help.
As for the "LPF for LFE" it could indeed have been named better, but I would much rather have the setting than not.

As for the confusing part this is what manuals and the internet is for.
I buy higher tier equipment primarily to have just these superfluous options.
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post #10299 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 09:10 AM
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My New 4520 Crapped Out This Morning

Yesterday evening I finally decided that I'm going to keep it, mainly for the rounder, tighter bass compared to my old 4310. To celebrate, I had a glass of wine while listening to Dave Brubeck. Then went to bed.

This morning when I turned it on, no sound. After a few other maneuvers, including input switching, on/off, unplugging for 5 minutes, a loud pop came out of the right speaker then static and a faint buzz. I could not resuscitate it even after a few hard resets. So I guess that was it.

My dilemma now is should I send it out for repair or return it? I'm not sure whether it is something with this particular unit (it was a shelf unit at BB for a couple years) or does the 4520 model have a higher rate of failures in general?

Do you guys have any other ideas I could try out first?

Thanks, F.
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post #10300 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 09:48 AM
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HDMI and Zone 3

I am trying to send audio from HDMI to zone 3 without success, can you help ...Thanks
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post #10301 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zigggy View Post
I am trying to send audio from HDMI to zone 3 without success, can you help ...Thanks
Not possible. The 4520 like most receivers can only send analog audio to other zones.
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post #10302 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by zigggy View Post
I am trying to send audio from HDMI to zone 3 without success, can you help ...Thanks
Yes it is possible but the same source will play in all zones

As per Post #3

18. All Zone Stereo: Will play any source (HDMI, optical, digital coax, or analog) to zones 2/3 (via Amp Assign or pre-outs) downmixing the source to Multi CH Stereo in the main zone.
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post #10303 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 11:36 AM
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When I hit the option button the "all zone stereo on" is gray I cant choose it ??? Any ideas
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post #10304 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 11:44 AM
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Got this on Denon support website
"There are also some newer models like the AVR-X3000, AVR-X4000, and AVR-4520CI that incorporate an HDMI output strictly for Zone 2 use. These models can either pass an encoded Dolby or DTS based signal through to a second receiver in a Zone 2 application or they can simply pass 2 channel based audio to a secondary TV. This can be altered using the HDMI Output (Zone 2) menu option."
????? dont have zone 2 in HDMI option ??
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post #10305 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by zigggy View Post
When I hit the option button the "all zone stereo on" is gray I cant choose it ??? Any ideas
Do you have your Zone 2/3 turned on?
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post #10306 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 12:14 PM
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Ok !!! got it, thanks everyone ......have a nice day
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post #10307 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irwinroad View Post
Yes it is possible but the same source will play in all zones

As per Post #3

18. All Zone Stereo: Will play any source (HDMI, optical, digital coax, or analog) to zones 2/3 (via Amp Assign or pre-outs) downmixing the source to Multi CH Stereo in the main zone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zigggy View Post
When I hit the option button the "all zone stereo on" is gray I cant choose it ??? Any ideas
Oops, sorry, yes, I forgot about All Zone Stereo.

zigggy -- you need to manually turn on the other zones first or else AZS will not be available as an option.

The newer models have streamlined this, adding both digital audio output to other zones (without AZS) and also turning on the other zones for you instead of making you turn them on manually first.

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post #10308 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigggy View Post
Got this on Denon support website
"There are also some newer models like the AVR-X3000, AVR-X4000, and AVR-4520CI that incorporate an HDMI output strictly for Zone 2 use. These models can either pass an encoded Dolby or DTS based signal through to a second receiver in a Zone 2 application or they can simply pass 2 channel based audio to a secondary TV. This can be altered using the HDMI Output (Zone 2) menu option."
????? dont have zone 2 in HDMI option ??
That's just sloppy writing on the support site. On the 4520CI the HDMI zone output is dedicated to its own zone (Zone 4) instead of piggybacking on Zone 2.

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post #10309 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 02:50 PM
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Thanks everyone
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post #10310 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 06:12 PM
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Got it fixed?

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Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
My 4520ci died in 1 month and five days from brand new. I turned it on last night and POP, brief static, then nothing.

I called denon, they said I needed to take it to an authorized repair shop. I'll do so today.
Did you get it back? Did they mention what was the fault?
I had a 4520 that died in a very similar fashion and makes me curious what could have happened.
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post #10311 of 10824 Old 11-03-2014, 06:15 PM
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Did you get it back? Did they mention what was the fault?
I had a 4520 that died in a very similar fashion and makes me curious what could have happened.
Not yet.


I haven't heard anything yet...

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post #10312 of 10824 Old 11-04-2014, 12:45 PM
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post #10313 of 10824 Old 11-04-2014, 01:57 PM
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Source Volume

Recently acquired the 4520 as a replacement for my 4311 that suffered a non replaceable HDMI Board failure. Anyway - I seem to recall that the 4311 had a setting that allowed you to increase the volume for a specific source, i.e for my Blu-Ray player in the settings menu. I could increase the db relative to the volume for my DirecTV source (all connected via HDMI) I can't find a similar adjustment on the 4520 - am I missing something?

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post #10314 of 10824 Old 11-04-2014, 02:06 PM
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Sure. Go to the Inputs menu, and select Source Level. You can adjust each source independently.
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post #10315 of 10824 Old 11-04-2014, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jrhooper1963 View Post
I would love to hear your thoughts on the 4520, after you get it set up and dialed in to your liking.

It's supposed to be here by the weekend and I get Monday and Tuesday off to tinker, so I'm sure I'll have soon impressions soon after!
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Sure. Go to the Inputs menu, and select Source Level. You can adjust each source independently.
Thanks Jerry - that worked

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post #10317 of 10824 Old 11-05-2014, 11:35 AM
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Last night I installed HDMI active equalizer extenders on the longer cables to see if it would solve my issues. These are the extenders that draw power from the HDMI line or can be powered with a 5v source that is not included. The instructions don't tell you how to set the equalizer, I set them to 3 for a 30' cable run.
I still am not able to get a 3D signal to go through the AVR. I am able to get a picture on zone 4 and both monitor 1 and 2 outputs all at the same time, but the sound still will not play at all unless I turn off zone 4. I guess my next step is to buy the 5v power sources and see if that works.
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post #10318 of 10824 Old 11-06-2014, 04:24 PM
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When I set up the 4520 (having replaced a 4311)I'm finding I need to turn up both the gain on the subwoofer and the trim on the AVR much higher than I had to previously. Is this something unusual/to be concerned about?

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post #10319 of 10824 Old 11-06-2014, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
When I set up the 4520 (having replaced a 4311)I'm finding I need to turn up both the gain on the subwoofer and the trim on the AVR much higher than I had to previously. Is this something unusual/to be concerned about?
There is a LFC (low frequency containment) setting for watching movies without disturbing those late at night etc, wonder if that's not on by mistake?
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post #10320 of 10824 Old 11-06-2014, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
When I set up the 4520 (having replaced a 4311)I'm finding I need to turn up both the gain on the subwoofer and the trim on the AVR much higher than I had to previously. Is this something unusual/to be concerned about?
I have both the 4520 and the 4311, and I am not observing any difference between the two AVR's WRT levels of either the mains or the subs. I would double-check your settings. What trims are being set when you run the calibration?
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