The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 382 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11431 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 11:40 AM
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Superb advice. And the precise descriptions (and photos) in your posts help so much. You know, with thoughtful answers and responses like these, it makes the processes of understanding and actually being able to act on what is put out so much more effective.

And when specific and concise, understandable, and effective it is so much more enjoyable!
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post #11432 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
IME all AVRs run quite hot, especially when driven fairly hard. But a lot of the heat is generated by the HDMI board and so the units can get quite hot even when not being worked too hard.

Heat is the enemy of electronics and prolonged exposure to high temperatures will reduce the life of components. With this information in mind, I have always run some form of cooling on my units, either from simple 4 inch quiet PC fans (Noctua are very good) to the more sophisticated solution I use now (and to which I posted a link recently) where the fans turn on and off under thermostat control. I have never had a unit fail on me, so maybe this is one of the reasons why.

Incidentally, those fans from the guy on eBay run incredibly quiet. You can put your ear right up to them and barely hear a whisper, so they are suitable for use even when the AVR is quite close to the MLP.

I see it as a sort of insurance policy. Probably not really needed but good to have for peace of mind. A few dollars to protect an investment of hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

This is the one I am using on the Denon 5200...



The guy has other solutions which cost less. He also has a nice range using 80cm fans instead of 100cm and I have some of those too, cooling my power amps. They are also controlled thermostatically so come on and off as needed.
I'm sure it is effective, but damn that is ugly.


As an overclocking pc enthusiast who often uses water blocks or exotic air coolers, I get the premise, but even those of us that demand killer cooling performance demand a cleaner look.

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post #11433 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JiminSTL View Post
kbarnes701, mecmec, and others, re the 4520 heat issue,

Hello. Would like to make sure I am understanding what you are saying. The heat issue (and various fan treatments) you talk about?
  1. I take it that the 4520 operates warm-to-hot, regardless?
  2. Additional heat removal is generally necessary? Even in a totally open environment, or only if there is a surrounding enclosure?

Is this condition something likely to affect the reliable performance of the unit--long-term? If so, I would like to be aware of it in the decision-making process, as I would not like to "revisit" my purchase for some years!

Thanks to all for your input and experiences.
I have a 4520 sitting on an open shelf. It is never what I would consider very hot to the touch, and the fans have never turned on. As with and AVR, if you place it where there is limited air circulation, it will become hot. Excessive heat may well damage components over time. Nothing new.
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post #11434 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 11:59 AM
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'Spose I could determine at the time. But I had never considered that/those specific types of solutions to keep a potential problem from becoming big. Am glad for all the responses.

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post #11435 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JiminSTL View Post
kbarnes, excellent! Even I understood what you said, and show. In my case, the AVR is located on a shelf, entirely open on all sides and top.

Still think I would be smart to have something like this?

Thanks, again.
You’re welcome. If the unit is very well ventilated, as yours seems to be, then I doubt if you need worry about additional cooling. Just keep an eye on it after a good, loud session and see how it feels to the touch. Expect it to be pretty warm, but not so hot you can't keep your hand on it.
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post #11436 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
I'm sure it is effective, but damn that is ugly.


As an overclocking pc enthusiast who often uses water blocks or exotic air coolers, I get the premise, but even those of us that demand killer cooling performance demand a cleaner look.
Why? When the unit is in the rack, you can't see the top.

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post #11437 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
Thanks for posting this. While I don't feel that my 4520 runs hot, and it is in a purpose built A/V cabinet with an open back and side / front vents, I still ordered one of these just for the heck of it. Sure can't hurt !!
Belt and suspenders always worked for me. Ahem...
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post #11438 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by laserjock II View Post
Linky?
In my post, just above. Tell Don that Keith sent you - I might get a discount next time LOL...
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post #11439 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Yes, it is still smart and cheap solution. The fans on the 4520 don't come on from reports here unless it's pushed extremely hard and hot. Plus, instead of natural heat staying inside and slowly rising the fan can pull that hit aur out and cool air in the bottom.

I have my 4520 in a tight cabinet with about 2 1/2 - 3 inches on top. I have one 120mm fan on top almost center but a little forward. Then I have 2 120mm fans in the back of the cabinet pulling hot air out. At the bottom I have holes the size of the 120mm fans to pull cool air in. Plus I have temp sensors on all the tops of my equipment and the hottest the 4520 has gotten is 98 degrees.

When I had my old denon 3806 on top of a open rack, I still had a 120mm fan on top helping, always runs cool.
Hmm, not sure what others have experienced, but my 4520 sits in a completely open(left side, right side, rear) shelf but with 2 inches of clearance on top. The fans in the 4520 would cycle on and off every several minutes in my system at moderate volumes with easy to drive speakers. It only felt moderately warm on top when the fans would cycle on. My Onkyo's fans, on the other hand, never came on ever, and it would heat up considerably more.

Still I put a fan on it anyway just in case.
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post #11440 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by laserjock II View Post
Linky?
The brand I own isn't made any more, but Sanus makes a similar one - http://www.sanus.com/en_CA/products/racks/cfr2127/


As does Salamander - http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/pro...7-5125e240d217

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post #11441 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
I saw the comment referring to Elmo's impressions of the 4520 sound quality, and I guess this must be it. I beg to differ on every item he's mentioned. Audyssey XT32 is jaw dropping amazing. I've experienced 2 previous Audyssey versions and also run them several times. XT32 is clearly the superior version. The sound is clear, open and dynamic with a convincing sound stage. Also, it integrates my side and rear surrounds better which I wasn't expecting. They are dipole/bipole, and the old Onkyo 876 Audyssey didn't seem to know what to do with them by comparison. Then there's the subwoofer. Wow. I've only got the one, but the integration is night and day better.

I do have a larger room, 14 x 25, with an open back wall as the kitchen is a split level design on a higher level. Also, the system is arranged square and center to the room, unlike the corner set up that some employ with hit and miss results. My speakers are an easier load too and 8 ohm. If you have 4 ohm speakers you will reach the limits of any AVR sooner.

With my system, I've also listened to music in 2 channel direct mode(no sub or Audyssey). The imaging is really good for a theater AVR. I've got a big 2 channel system as well, and it's not the equal of that, but it is better than the flagship Onkyo I had for 5 years. I remember thinking that the Onkyo sounded somewhat clinical when I first got it, but the Denon is the way it should be by comparison. I don't find it bright at all or congested at higher volumes and I have an aversion to forward/bright sounding gear. Elmo's congested and bright comments might have more to do with room, placement, hard surfaces, I really don't know what he's used to, but the 4520 is the best AVR I've had period. It does seem to have a rate of failing units, it's hard to quantify if it's higher than typical or not. But at $1000, it's a steal.
This has been my experience as well, except that I don't listen to anything in 2 channel. I have a seven-sided room with five openings and a cathedral ceiling. Needless to say, it's acoustically challenging. I have some treatment panels, but the XT32 (and dual subs) help overcome some of those challenges.

I did read some professional and quasi-professional reviews that mentioned brightness, but I'm sure all the variables you mentioned, including the speakers, contribute to any perceived brightness as much as the receiver.

I also have an open rack with lots of top clearance, and I haven't noticed any excessive heat.
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post #11442 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 01:04 PM
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Well, seems the phono shut down issue was just the start. Today turned the avr on, to phono.....nada sound. Turned the volume dial (maybe even for the first time) and static/popping noises. Hiss coming out of the right surround speaker after back and forth to network with a brief blast of sound from only the right side. Off and on again now have sat feed on (D*) and still more on the right side and to the rear as far as sound. Off and then on again, now Network is primarily playing from the left front. Time to do a full reset but think I'm sending this one back....

ps full reset didn't do anything, static in speakers and only some of them do that, sound is primarily coming from right surround and to a lesser extent from right front. Wouldn't get past the listen for the internet thing in the setup routine after a full reset (in that I couldn't hear anything). Did a soft reset to get past that and then still no audio except from the right surround/right front with static pops while avr changes modes. Waiting on call from A4L but looking at my paperwork am probably going to be told to deal with Denon directly but have left a message for A4L first. This is rapidly changing my mind on doing refurbs....

pps Now I'm pissed I tried one last time using network (before getting around it in setup indicated no connection, afterwards seems it does have a connection), started Pandora and the left side came to life at full volume (despite a setting of -35 to start). Hope my speakers are okay, the remote wouldn't control volume so had to run across the room and hit the power button on the unit itself.

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post #11443 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
Hmm, not sure what others have experienced, but my 4520 sits in a completely open(left side, right side, rear) shelf but with 2 inches of clearance on top. The fans in the 4520 would cycle on and off every several minutes in my system at moderate volumes with easy to drive speakers. It only felt moderately warm on top when the fans would cycle on. My Onkyo's fans, on the other hand, never came on ever, and it would heat up considerably more.

Still I put a fan on it anyway just in case.
The Denon manual advises 12" of clearance, sides, top & rear... maybe that 2" at the top contributed to your fans cycling.

I posted some time ago about the effects of heat on electronic components such as integrated circuits. For every 10 degree C rise in temperature roughly cuts the lifetime in half. Burn in for military parts could take a week at fairly low temperatures or do it in 24 hours by raising the temperature to, IIRC, around 125 degrees C or a bit higher. Much above 150C and catastrophic failure can occur quite rapidly. Like CPU chips that are not well interfaced to their heat sink can die quite quickly.

So for me, I'm also a belt and suspenders kinda guy with my 4520 but then I'm also a bit squeezed for room at the top, ~5". I have the same dual fan unit shown above, sitting on top of Keith's unit, with my thermostat control set around 85 degrees. After a "good" movie the fans usually continue to run after I shut down for maybe 5 minutes, or so, even though the unit usually doesn't feel more than a bit warm, never hot.

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post #11444 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 01:53 PM
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I saw the comment referring to Elmo's impressions of the 4520 sound quality, and I guess this must be it. I beg to differ on every item he's mentioned. Audyssey XT32 is jaw dropping amazing. I've experienced 2 previous Audyssey versions and also run them several times. XT32 is clearly the superior version. The sound is clear, open and dynamic with a convincing sound stage. Also, it integrates my side and rear surrounds better which I wasn't expecting. They are dipole/bipole, and the old Onkyo 876 Audyssey didn't seem to know what to do with them by comparison. Then there's the subwoofer. Wow. I've only got the one, but the integration is night and day better.

I do have a larger room, 14 x 25, with an open back wall as the kitchen is a split level design on a higher level. Also, the system is arranged square and center to the room, unlike the corner set up that some employ with hit and miss results. My speakers are an easier load too and 8 ohm. If you have 4 ohm speakers you will reach the limits of any AVR sooner.

With my system, I've also listened to music in 2 channel direct mode(no sub or Audyssey). The imaging is really good for a theater AVR. I've got a big 2 channel system as well, and it's not the equal of that, but it is better than the flagship Onkyo I had for 5 years. I remember thinking that the Onkyo sounded somewhat clinical when I first got it, but the Denon is the way it should be by comparison. I don't find it bright at all or congested at higher volumes and I have an aversion to forward/bright sounding gear. Elmo's congested and bright comments might have more to do with room, placement, hard surfaces, I really don't know what he's used to, but the 4520 is the best AVR I've had period. It does seem to have a rate of failing units, it's hard to quantify if it's higher than typical or not. But at $1000, it's a steal.

Hey...no need to "beg to differ", you got "jaw dropping"and "night and day better " that's what everybody wants for $1k, congrats. Sadly I'm used to trinnov which is nothing like Audyssey, although I have several units that do have Audyssey. The only reason I returned to this thread, as I have" made peace " with the fact I ain't getting nirvana for $899 delivered, is avs sent an email that I was quoted (I gotta fix that). I know I sure would have been happy with any sound improvement and updated features.


I do hope those that get this unit have good fortune with functionality and enjoy their investment. I keep my opnions on sound, in my symmetrical , dedicated from construction, large, treated, room.
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post #11445 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt2026 View Post
The Denon manual advises 12" of clearance, sides, top & rear... maybe that 2" at the top contributed to your fans cycling.

I posted some time ago about the effects of heat on electronic components such as integrated circuits. For every 10 degree C rise in temperature roughly cuts the lifetime in half. Burn in for military parts could take a week at fairly low temperatures or do it in 24 hours by raising the temperature to, IIRC, around 125 degrees C or a bit higher. Much above 150C and catastrophic failure can occur quite rapidly. Like CPU chips that are not well interfaced to their heat sink can die quite quickly.

So for me, I'm also a belt and suspenders kinda guy with my 4520 but then I'm also a bit squeezed for room at the top, ~5". I have the same dual fan unit shown above, sitting on top of Keith's unit, with my thermostat control set around 85 degrees. After a "good" movie the fans usually continue to run after I shut down for maybe 5 minutes, or so, even though the unit usually doesn't feel more than a bit warm, never hot.
As an owner of 3 Onkyos, I have become well versed in the heat issues involved though I never personally had a failure.

At any rate I just tested the 4520. I have a sensor installed just inside the top of the unit about 2/3 of the way to the back. I removed my fan and ran the Denon to see when the interior fans would kick on. It slowly rose all the way to 100 F with no fan start up. That took about 15 minutes. No telling what the Denon was reading for heat, I imagine near the top of the inside of the unit there would be a heat build up at least somewhat. It felt moderately warm only to the touch, not the "Onkyo" warm I've felt with those units near the HDMI board. At that point I put my fan back on the top, and my sensor saw the temp quickly go down to 84 F, now it's at 82.

Just in case anyone's interested, I think while watching movies with my fan operating it doesn't get above 84 F or 29 C. My old Onkyo would get up to about 99 F or 37 C with 2 fans on it. It never gave me an issue.
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post #11446 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Elmo C View Post
Hey...no need to "beg to differ", you got "jaw dropping"and "night and day better " that's what everybody wants for $1k, congrats. Sadly I'm used to trinnov which is nothing like Audyssey, although I have several units that do have Audyssey. The only reason I returned to this thread, as I have" made peace " with the fact I ain't getting nirvana for $899 delivered, is avs sent an email that I was quoted (I gotta fix that). I know I sure would have been happy with any sound improvement and updated features.


I do hope those that get this unit have good fortune with functionality and enjoy their investment. I keep my opnions on sound, in my symmetrical , dedicated from construction, large, treated, room.
Yeah, I remember really hoping Outlaw was going to release that Trinnov laden processor they had in the works. By all accounts, Trinnov is better than anything else out there. Too bad the Denon didn't work out for you.
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post #11447 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Well, seems the phono shut down issue was just the start. Today turned the avr on, to phono.....nada sound. Turned the volume dial (maybe even for the first time) and static/popping noises. Hiss coming out of the right surround speaker after back and forth to network with a brief blast of sound from only the right side. Off and on again now have sat feed on (D*) and still more on the right side and to the rear as far as sound. Off and then on again, now Network is primarily playing from the left front. Time to do a full reset but think I'm sending this one back....

ps full reset didn't do anything, static in speakers and only some of them do that, sound is primarily coming from right surround and to a lesser extent from right front. Wouldn't get past the listen for the internet thing in the setup routine after a full reset (in that I couldn't hear anything). Did a soft reset to get past that and then still no audio except from the right surround/right front with static pops while avr changes modes. Waiting on call from A4L but looking at my paperwork am probably going to be told to deal with Denon directly but have left a message for A4L first. This is rapidly changing my mind on doing refurbs....
Sorry to hear about your problems - but as long as you have a valid warranty - my experience with Denon warranty service is that they will take the appropriate steps to keep you whole. I base this on sending in a Denon 4311 for repair - because Denon no longer had the replacement part in inventory, they provided me with a 4520 refurb. with a 12 month warranty. Unfortunately the 4520 refurb was defective. However they did send me a replacement 4520 that has performed flawlessly for the last 6 months.

Good luck with the replacement process - keep records of when you send in the unit, who you speak with at Denon, etc.

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post #11448 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 02:19 PM
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Sorry to hear about your problems - but as long as you have a valid warranty - my experience with Denon warranty service is that they will take the appropriate steps to keep you whole. I base this on sending in a Denon 4311 for repair - because Denon no longer had the replacement part in inventory, they provided me with a 4520 refurb. with a 12 month warranty. Unfortunately the 4520 refurb was defective. However they did send me a replacement 4520 that has performed flawlessly for the last 6 months.

Good luck with the replacement process - keep records of when you send in the unit, who you speak with at Denon, etc.
I was hoping A4L might want to do something on their own but we'll find out tomorrow since no call back yet and believe they operate on Florida time. Big pain in the ass to unhook everything, take my old avr out of my bedroom (and replace it with an older unit as well) and set everything all up again. Hopefully if A4L won't do anything (and they don't have to, but I prefer to give the vendor a shot first) then Denon will be able to fix this or provide me with something that does work.
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post #11449 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 03:15 PM
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Linky?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Combination-...item5418385fbf

AVR: Denon 4520ci, FL/R: Klipschorn, CC: Klipsch RC-64ii, SUR: Polk LS/FX x4, FH: Klipsch RB-51ii x2, SUB: PSA T-18 x2, DISP: Mitsubishi WD-73740, BluRay: PS3 & BDP-S5100, Remote: URC MX-700
--------------------------------------------------
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post #11450 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
IME all AVRs run quite hot, especially when driven fairly hard. But a lot of the heat is generated by the HDMI board and so the units can get quite hot even when not being worked too hard.

Heat is the enemy of electronics and prolonged exposure to high temperatures will reduce the life of components. With this information in mind, I have always run some form of cooling on my units, either from simple 4 inch quiet PC fans (Noctua are very good) to the more sophisticated solution I use now (and to which I posted a link recently) where the fans turn on and off under thermostat control. I have never had a unit fail on me, so maybe this is one of the reasons why.

Incidentally, those fans from the guy on eBay run incredibly quiet. You can put your ear right up to them and barely hear a whisper, so they are suitable for use even when the AVR is quite close to the MLP.

I see it as a sort of insurance policy. Probably not really needed but good to have for peace of mind. A few dollars to protect an investment of hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

This is the one I am using on the Denon 5200...



The guy has other solutions which cost less. He also has a nice range using 80cm fans instead of 100cm and I have some of those too, cooling my power amps. They are also controlled thermostatically so come on and off as needed.
This is great! What temperature do you have your thermostat set to? Thanks!
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post #11451 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
Why? When the unit is in the rack, you can't see the top.


That's not so bad. Good for 99.9% of people. My ocd would bother me just knowing what it looked like.

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post #11452 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
I've had my 4520 going on 4 months now, new A stock from A4L. It's been flawless. It's the best sound quality I've ever had. What a deal!
How can a potential customer determine if the product they are buying from A4L is an A-Stock item. I ask because I'm considering purchasing the NEW 4520CI from them @ $999.99. Thank you guys.
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post #11453 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 06:21 PM
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With a mass market company like Denon, "A" stock is simply new in sealed box as opposed to a return or refurbished unit. Someone correct me if I'm missing something.
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post #11454 of 12281 Old 02-25-2015, 06:57 PM
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I have a Sherbourn C12 rack fan unit to keep my AVR cool - which you can still find online, even though Sherbourn is defunct.
You can occasionally find them on ebay - or this place sells it for $99. (I don't know anything about the place - it just came up in a google search).
http://www.audiolab.com/Sherbourn_C_...t_p/shec12.htm


The C12 has an automatic gradual turn on at a variable heat thresholds (you specify the temperature) and the fans are inaudible with the auto on function, and if you let it use auto you'll likely never hear the fans because they spin slow and just take away the excess heat. If you just want to blast the air you can just turn it full on - regardless of temperature, and all three fans will spin at max --- which of course is loud. It looks great in a rack, and functions even better than it looks. It's rack mountable or has feet to just sit atop the AVR if that's your preference.


I'd buy it again at $99 bucks if I needed it. I think I paid $80 in the Sherbourn closeout last year or so. I bought it on impulse, and I almost sold it because I didn't need it in my previous theater space (I had my AVR out of the rack sitting on top), but I'm glad I kept it because I sure do need it in my new space with the AVR in the rack.



Upside down - (3) 120 mm fans



Front side - it has a single blue LED on the left by the power button.



Rear of the unit. You can have it exhaust out the front or out the rear. The holes are screwed for ducting the heat out of your rack if you prefer. I find I don't need ducting. I rear exhaust and the fan blows the hot air out of the rack at inaudible noise levels. This cooling unit sits immediately atop my AVR in my rack.

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Last edited by Archaea; 02-25-2015 at 07:00 PM.
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post #11455 of 12281 Old 02-26-2015, 01:51 AM
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Well, seems the phono shut down issue was just the start. Today turned the avr on, to phono.....nada sound. Turned the volume dial (maybe even for the first time) and static/popping noises. Hiss coming out of the right surround speaker after back and forth to network with a brief blast of sound from only the right side. Off and on again now have sat feed on (D*) and still more on the right side and to the rear as far as sound. Off and then on again, now Network is primarily playing from the left front. Time to do a full reset but think I'm sending this one back....

ps full reset didn't do anything, static in speakers and only some of them do that, sound is primarily coming from right surround and to a lesser extent from right front. Wouldn't get past the listen for the internet thing in the setup routine after a full reset (in that I couldn't hear anything). Did a soft reset to get past that and then still no audio except from the right surround/right front with static pops while avr changes modes. Waiting on call from A4L but looking at my paperwork am probably going to be told to deal with Denon directly but have left a message for A4L first. This is rapidly changing my mind on doing refurbs....

pps Now I'm pissed I tried one last time using network (before getting around it in setup indicated no connection, afterwards seems it does have a connection), started Pandora and the left side came to life at full volume (despite a setting of -35 to start). Hope my speakers are okay, the remote wouldn't control volume so had to run across the room and hit the power button on the unit itself.
loose board-to-board connection/s.

I hope the vendor does the right thing for you.
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post #11456 of 12281 Old 02-26-2015, 04:25 AM
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This is great! What temperature do you have your thermostat set to? Thanks!
Not sure. I did it empirically. I turned on the AVR, played some loud content through it and monitored the AVR by putting my hand on it. When it got to the temperature that felt 'right' to me, I set the little control to turn the fans on. I’d go look at what the setting is for you, but once the unit is in the rack it is not possible to see the control.

The fans, from the same source, that I have on some of my amps don't have that control (which makes them cheaper). They turn on and off at set temperatures. Not sure what temperatures they use, but they work very well.
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post #11457 of 12281 Old 02-26-2015, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
That's not so bad. Good for 99.9% of people. My ocd would bother me just knowing what it looked like.
You mean you worry about what it looks like even if you can't actually see it???
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post #11458 of 12281 Old 02-26-2015, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
You mean you worry about what it looks like even if you can't actually see it???

yes, an affliction of mine. Same reason hidden cables must still be properly bundled and tied. Something like Archaea posted would be much more to my liking.


His design is sound though. He's using 120mm fans which is indeed the preferred choice (80mm are good as well but noisier and lest CFM, 100mm are generally regarded as inferior to both).


You do hope that whoever is using this stuff asks enough questions if they are not familiar with cooling. The plate he uses on the top is fine if your system has open sides. If the sides were closed off and you utilized this product, it would still do a great job of rapidly removing heat but could also create hot spots within the unit itself, as it would have nowhere to pull in ambient air. Going back to pc cooling (because the parts have similar heat tolerances), if you setup two 120mm exhaust fans, you try to have intake fans setup that pull in the same amount of ambient air that you are displacing - eliminating hot spots. While chances are small, you could do potentially more harm than good with a design like this and insufficient knowledge.


Anyway... Lots of positive feedback, so I'm sure he's building quality stuff and doing a good job coaching those who ask him questions.

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post #11459 of 12281 Old 02-26-2015, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
yes, an affliction of mine. Same reason hidden cables must still be properly bundled and tied. Something like Archaea posted would be much more to my liking.
Yes that is a nice unit but unfortunately no longer available anywhere that I could find. And at its original price of $400, fairly ridiculous. For those with racks, all of the rack manufacturers also offer cooling systems of course.

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Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
His design is sound though. He's using 120mm fans which is indeed the preferred choice (80mm are good as well but noisier and lest CFM, 100mm are generally regarded as inferior to both).
Depends on the fan and the amount of air you need to move. The 80mm I have on top of some of my amps are virtually inaudible from 12 inches away. The air displacement potential of even small fans is so great that they only need to spin very slowly to shift enough air for sufficient cooling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
You do hope that whoever is using this stuff asks enough questions if they are not familiar with cooling. The plate he uses on the top is fine if your system has open sides. If the sides were closed off and you utilized this product, it would still do a great job of rapidly removing heat but could also create hot spots within the unit itself, as it would have nowhere to pull in ambient air.
Yes. Most units I have seen (and all of mine) have air intakes as well as slots in the top. Sometimes on the sides, sometimes on the bottom, sometimes both.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
Going back to pc cooling (because the parts have similar heat tolerances), if you setup two 120mm exhaust fans, you try to have intake fans setup that pull in the same amount of ambient air that you are displacing - eliminating hot spots. While chances are small, you could do potentially more harm than good with a design like this and insufficient knowledge.
I suspect the chances of running the units too hot are greater

Last edited by kbarnes701; 02-26-2015 at 07:11 AM.
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post #11460 of 12281 Old 02-26-2015, 07:10 AM
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^^^

BTW, if the unit didn't have any place to pull in ambient air, and the top was covered by that fan base thing, then the unit would collapse on itself as a vacuum was created. LOL. No more worries about overheating!
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