The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 383 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11461 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
^^^

BTW, if the unit didn't have any place to pull in ambient air, and the top was covered by that fan base thing, then the unit would collapse on itself as a vacuum was created. LOL. No more worries about overheating!
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post #11462 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
Yes. Most units I have seen (and all of mine) have air intakes as well as slots in the top. Sometimes on the sides, sometimes on the bottom, sometimes both.
I was more thinking if someone bought this unit for a 4520 that was in a mainstream media cabinet where the side vents were blocked.

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post #11463 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
I was more thinking if someone bought this unit for a 4520 that was in a mainstream media cabinet where the side vents were blocked.
Ah right. Yes, that might be a problem. I think the takeaway from this discussion is the importance of ensuring adequate ventilation for the units, and of ensuring they don't run hotter than they should. There are various ways to achieve this end - the simplest being to ensure the unit has plenty of space all around it. I think that once one starts to enclose AVRs and amps, then the whole of issue of cooling them suddenly comes to the fore. Personally, I'd never fully enclose any units I owned but, like you, I am a bit obsessive about this sort of thing. And, knock on wood, I have never had a unit fail on me yet.
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post #11464 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
I was more thinking if someone bought this unit for a 4520 that was in a mainstream media cabinet where the side vents were blocked.

My ex - wife had a " mainstream media cabinet " with tiny holes in the back for wires ( and no ventilation ). I took a jigsaw to the back of that cabinet when she wasn't looking. Ventilation and wire routing problems solved ( somewhat ).

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post #11465 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
Depends on the fan and the amount of air you need to move. The 80mm I have on top of some of my amps are virtually inaudible from 12 inches away. The air displacement potential of even small fans is so great that they only need to spin very slowly to shift enough air for sufficient cooling.
Had to wait to get to my desktop to find it... but here is a 120mm fan eval for any DIY solutions. Yes, there are some perfectly capable 80mm, but 120mm ftw.


http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/33...g-roundup-2012
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post #11466 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
Had to wait to get to my desktop to find it... but here is a 120mm fan eval for any DIY solutions. Yes, there are some perfectly capable 80mm, but 120mm ftw.


http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/33...g-roundup-2012
Wow - that is some comprehensive piece of work!
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post #11467 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
Yes, there are some perfectly capable 80mm, but 120mm ftw.
I've got 4 140mm fans in the back of my equipment rack. Keeps everything cool.
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post #11468 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 08:55 PM
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I've got 4 140mm fans in the back of my equipment rack. Keeps everything cool.
I'm sure they work great for your needs. As some extra FYI, most 120mm fans outperform 140mm. One wouldn't think so, but sure enough...

A moot point in your case as those fans are plenty adequate.

In any case I've never intended to derail the thread with the extra cooling details.

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post #11469 of 11486 Old 02-26-2015, 09:02 PM
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The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by wadec22 View Post
I'm sure they work great for your needs. As some extra FYI, most 120mm fans outperform 140mm. One wouldn't think so, but sure enough...

A moot point in your case as those fans are plenty adequate.

In any case I've never intended to derail the thread with the extra cooling details.
Love to see that link. No replacement for displacement. :P

I've got mine on a fan controller. They're barely moving and the Denon is cool to the touch.
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post #11470 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 12:54 AM
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I've had my 4520 from A4L for a day now. I haven't run Audyssey yet. Using physical measurements and the Graphic EQ, it still sounds good. I've been bresking it in with moderate volume. Although, I did open it up and let GODZILLA ROAR with a few solid tight bass songs from Twenty One Pilots. The picture frames sitting on tables and whatnot were rattling

One question I have at this time is, what is the rear USB jack for? It won't power a USB fan. It also won't power an old iPhone used as an iPod. The front USB works fine.

I didn't have to connect my iPhone 6+ via USB to setup AirPlay, it just worked! I was very surprised. The Spotify app in the 4520 sounds much better than the iPhone app.
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post #11471 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by davethestalker View Post
Using physical measurements and the Graphic EQ, it still sounds good.
Do you notice that there is no subwoofer GEQ ?
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post #11472 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 10:13 AM
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Do you notice that there is no subwoofer GEQ ?
Yes. Audyssey knows how to handle that . I haven't run it yet, I'm in the process of precisely centering my seat between the mains and center spkr to not scew the results and produce an off center vocal for stereo sources. When I ran Audyssey for the 7007 the second time, vocals were slightly left of center in my seat. Mic placements were all within a 4 foot square surrounding the MLP. The first time I ran it, I placed the mic at each seating position, like a reversed L, the right surround and right main are close to the couch. That produced a weird result.

I'll be running Audyssey today, and I'm hoping for xt32 to do better.
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post #11473 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 10:59 AM
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Short story: I'm having trouble getting TV audio out to Zone 2 so I can listen to a game while in the kitchen. I know I need an analog signal (digital won't pass thru), and I'm looking for suggestions on how best to get that signal.

Longer version: Changed Verizon Fios cable box to new and improved (?) version Arris VMS100. My old set up had HDMI from the Fios box to the 4520, and then HDMI to the TV (Panny TH-58PZ800U). It also had component from the Fios box directly to the TV, allowing me to watch TV while listening to something better than Michael Kay call the Yankee game. It also had analog audio from the Fios box to the 4520, allowing me to pass TV audio to Zone 2. The old Fios box could output both HDMI and component video / analog audio at the same time. The new and improved Fios box will not output component video or analog audio with the HDMI cable connected. It is one or the other.

I've solved the 'watch TV but listen to Grateful Dead' problem by making an additional HDMI connection using the 4520 Zone 4 to the TV HDMI input 2. I can now watch TV and listen to a different audio signal in the main room.

I still haven't figured out how to get an analog audio signal from the Fios box or the TV to the 4520. The TV has analog audio out RCA jacks, but they aren't producing anything.

Suggestions? Can I do something as simple (or stupid) as connecting RCA cables from an analog audio out to analog audio in, or does it need to go thru an external device like a cassette tape player? Yes - I still have one of those connected to the system.
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post #11474 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 01:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by davethestalker View Post
One question I have at this time is, what is the rear USB jack for? It won't power a USB fan. It also won't power an old iPhone used as an iPod. The front USB works fine.
Only one can be active at a time -- there's a setting to tell the receive whether FRONT or REAR is active.

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post #11475 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davethestalker View Post

One question I have at this time is, what is the rear USB jack for? It won't power a USB fan. It also won't power an old iPhone used as an iPod. The front USB works fine.
To add to what Batpig has answered, the place to toggle the USB from front to rear is in an obscure place, IMO. First of all, you need to make sure that the iPod/USB input is not hidden. Then select iPod/USB on the remote. Then touch the Option button on the remote, and you will see a "USB Select" menu item. Select this item and you can toggle the active USB from front to rear.
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post #11476 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 03:00 PM
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To add to what Batpig has answered, the place to toggle the USB from front to rear is in an obscure place, IMO. First of all, you need to make sure that the iPod/USB input is not hidden. Then select iPod/USB on the remote. Then touch the Option button on the remote, and you will see a "USB Select" menu item. Select this item and you can toggle the active USB from front to rear.


They can't be used at the same time? What's the use of having 2 then? Is this fixable via firmware or is it strictly hardware related?
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post #11477 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 03:53 PM
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They can't be used at the same time? What's the use of having 2 then? Is this fixable via firmware or is it strictly hardware related?
AFAIK, only one at a time, don't know why. Not fixable.
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post #11478 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 06:41 PM
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A little bit of background. My sub (1) is a Polk PSW505. Sub 2 is the subs built into my Def Tech BP2003 mains using a Y splitter.

I was extremely impressed with Audyssey XT32's first step of having me set my sub volumes at around 75db (8 o'clock gain). Setting #1 was easy. Setting #2 was more difficult because I had to adjust the volume on both the balance them while setting them at around 75db (left 11 o'clock, right 7 o'clock - 5" in front of a wall). But I nailed it.

Audyssey ran, distances are very close to physical measurements, and it did an absolutely amazing job creating a broad soundstage for stereo music. I actually had to make sure it was not in some sort of DSP mode. I'm VERY impressed. Watching TV the surround effects are fantastic, I couldn't ask for anything better.

Now, here is the rub, and it's pretty bad. There is absolutely ZERO bass, Audyssey set sub 1 at -6, sub 2 set is at -3. The highs (in this already bright set of mains) actually hurt my ears at a moderate listening level like -40 to -30db. Dynamic Volume is in Medium

Can I run Audyssey just to set the subs?

What can I do about the ear piercing highs?

I know my sub setup is not ideal, it's probably causing problems in fact. I would like to take advantage somehow of the Def Tech LFE inputs. What should I do? What about running the pre-out L & R to them? The center channel CLR2300 has the center pre-out going to it. I don't know if it's making any difference or not.

I can post a couple of pix of my listening area.
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post #11479 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 06:52 PM
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Hopefully zero bass is an exaggeration? Just bump up the sub levels (you can do that from the setup button on the remote in the audio menu). Why are you using dynamic volume? Are you using dynamic eq?
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post #11480 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 06:55 PM
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View from my spot. To the right of me is the rest of the rectangl basement. My "theater" is in the left half of it.

"Zero bass" is a slight exaggeration. Dynamic Volume (Audyssey picked medium) and Dynamic EQ are part of Audyssey, it's supposed to be used no? Yes, I know i can crank the subs back in, but we aren't supposed to do that, because Audyssey is supposed to set it right. Right?
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post #11481 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davethestalker View Post
View from my spot. To the right of me is the rest of the rectangl basement. My "theater" is in the left half of it.

"Zero bass" is a slight exaggeration. Dynamic Volume (Audyssey picked medium) and Dynamic EQ are part of Audyssey, it's supposed to be used no? Yes, I know i can crank the subs back in, but we aren't supposed to do that, because Audyssey is supposed to set it right. Right?
You realize your subs see all your space, right? They don't know what part of a room you're in. What are the dimensions of your space? Did you position your subs with a sub crawl or?

Many boost subs after running Audyssey....they're your ears. Have you visited the Audyssey setup thread? Depending on the mix of subs I've used a boost anywhere between 0 and 3, currently I'm using a boost of 2.

I don't use dynamic volume, first thing that I turn off after running Audyssey. http://www.audyssey.com/technologies/dynamic-volume

I do use dynamic eq most of the time, though.

ps What are you using, Audyssey or Audyssey Flat curve?
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post #11482 of 11486 Old Yesterday, 07:42 PM
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Yes I've read the setup thread which is why I'm leaning toward, "run it and leave it alone". Yamaha's YPAO always set the sub level about -5 too low. Being that XT32 has SubEQ, I was hoping that abnormally low setting wouldn't happen. According to the setup thread, I should accept what Audyssey has calculated and get used to how it is supposed to be. Rather than me mucking around with properly set gain settings so it can sound and feel like I "want" it to.

More of a concern is how incredibly bright it is in stereo with Audyssey. Using Audyssey Flat helps a bit, but doesn't that defeat the room correction?

Can run just the SubEQ section of Audyssey?
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post #11483 of 11486 Unread Yesterday, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davethestalker View Post
Yes I've read the setup thread which is why I'm leaning toward, "run it and leave it alone". Yamaha's YPAO always set the sub level about -5 too low. Being that XT32 has SubEQ, I was hoping that abnormally low setting wouldn't happen. According to the setup thread, I should accept what Audyssey has calculated and get used to how it is supposed to be. Rather than me mucking around with properly set gain settings so it can sound and feel like I "want" it to.

More of a concern is how incredibly bright it is in stereo with Audyssey. Using Audyssey Flat helps a bit, but doesn't that defeat the room correction?

Can run just the SubEQ section of Audyssey?
I've not spent a lot of time there but there are many who bump up the sub levels from what I recall. There is really no purist thing going on that needs adhering to....

Audyssey flat actually has more boost in the high end, standard Audyssey (or Audyssey Movie if you prefer) has the high end rolled off. Those are the two Audyssey mode choices you have from running Audyssey; Flat usually used for music content. You can simply turn it off or try rerunning Audyssey, too (you using a tripod/mic boom at ear level, all 8 positions, in a small circle around your listening position?).

Sub EQ is only the capability of separate measurement and setting level/distance for two subs, it isn't a stand alone component. XT32 still does the eq of the subs together.

Is stereo the only mode that is too bright? The multich modes don't do that? I don't have that issue myself, i.e. the speakers being too bright, in any mode.
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post #11484 of 11486 Unread Yesterday, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davethestalker View Post
Yes. Audyssey knows how to handle that .
When you're using manual GEQ, Audyssey is bypassed. There is no correction for subwoofer channel (manual GEQ available for all other channels though). I have verified this with REW. Audyssey "off" and "manual" (GEQ) makes no difference to the subwoofer.
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When I turn off my Panasonic ae8000 it turns off my Denon 4520... Is there a way to get it to turn on the Denon 4520 too?

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs,  PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 HTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Darbee Darcet, Yamaha P7000s, (2) Yamaha P2500s, & (3) Topping 25wpch T chip amps.
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post #11486 of 11486 Unread Today, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
When I turn off my Panasonic ae8000 it turns off my Denon 4520... Is there a way to get it to turn on the Denon 4520 too?

Check the HDMI Control settings on the PANNY and the 4520. Make sure they are both set to on.
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