The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 440 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13171 of 13194 Unread 01-23-2016, 07:11 PM
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The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
The Crown XLS Drivecore gen 2 amps have sort of a 12v trigger and quieter fans and are rca friendly fwiw....but they're still selling for relatively high prices compared to what you could recently get gen 1 amps. Sounds like a good deal on the Behringer, tho....
Well I gotta turn on the sub amp anyhow. At least if I have a LCR amp I won't forget.

There's a DIY floating around for a 12v trigger mod on the iNukes but I've been too chicken.
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post #13172 of 13194 Unread 01-23-2016, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Well I gotta turn on the sub amp anyhow. At least if I have a LCR amp I won't forget.

There's a DIY floating around for a 12v trigger mod on the iNukes but I've been too chicken.
Just use a smart power strip with the avr as master perhaps? What I do...
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post #13173 of 13194 Unread 01-23-2016, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Just use a smart power strip with the avr as master perhaps? What I do...
Tried. Makes my subs pop.
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post #13174 of 13194 Unread 01-24-2016, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Could be you need more amp for a full complement of speakers running at reference levels, could be your speakers running out of gas, too. Not familiar with those speakers nor see much detail with a quick search. Are the front speakers noticeably better in only 2ch mode? Might be one way of testing if it's power or speaker....or even use your sub amp on the front pair and see if that gives you an idea.
I tried searching, are there blind volume-matched listening tests that compare an amp vs receiver? Its not going to be so easy to A/B compare with my NU6000 because of Speakon vs Banana Plugs...

My Speaker Specs:

VR3 (Right / Left)
Frequency Response: 41Hz-20kHz
Recommended Amplifier Power: 15-150 watts
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms
Sensitivity [1 watt (2.83v) at 1m]: 93dB
Bass Unit: (2) 61⁄2" DCD™ (165mm) copolymer
Midrange: 41⁄2" (115mm) neodymium copolymer
Tweeter: 1" (25mm) VRH.O.™ anodized aluminum dome
Crossover Frequency: 400, 2800Hz
Dimensions (H x W x D): 38 x 9 x 111⁄2"
Weight:45 lbs (21kg)

VR12 (Center)
Frequency Response(±3dB): 58-20,000Hz
Recommended Amplifier Power: 15-250 watts
Nominal Impedance: 8ohms
Sensitivity: [1watt(2.83v)at1m]: 91dB
Bass Unit: Dual 6 1/2"(165mm) copolymer Midrange 41/2"(115mm) copolymer
Tweeter: 1"(25mm)anodized aluminum dome
Crossover Frequency: 500,3300Hz
Dimensions(HxWxD): 83/4x25x81/2"
Weight: 30lbs(14kg)
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post #13175 of 13194 Unread 01-24-2016, 10:35 AM
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Given that you can find these for under $1,000 used, would you folks still recommend the 4520CI or something newer and why? The multi zones and Ethernet hub would meet my needs nicely.


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post #13176 of 13194 Unread 01-24-2016, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I tried searching, are there blind volume-matched listening tests that compare an amp vs receiver? Its not going to be so easy to A/B compare with my NU6000 because of Speakon vs Banana Plugs...

My Speaker Specs:

VR3 (Right / Left)
Frequency Response: 41Hz-20kHz
Recommended Amplifier Power: 15-150 watts
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms
Sensitivity [1 watt (2.83v) at 1m]: 93dB
Bass Unit: (2) 61⁄2" DCD™ (165mm) copolymer
Midrange: 41⁄2" (115mm) neodymium copolymer
Tweeter: 1" (25mm) VRH.O.™ anodized aluminum dome
Crossover Frequency: 400, 2800Hz
Dimensions (H x W x D): 38 x 9 x 111⁄2"
Weight:45 lbs (21kg)

VR12 (Center)
Frequency Response(±3dB): 58-20,000Hz
Recommended Amplifier Power: 15-250 watts
Nominal Impedance: 8ohms
Sensitivity: [1watt(2.83v)at1m]: 91dB
Bass Unit: Dual 6 1/2"(165mm) copolymer Midrange 41/2"(115mm) copolymer
Tweeter: 1"(25mm)anodized aluminum dome
Crossover Frequency: 500,3300Hz
Dimensions(HxWxD): 83/4x25x81/2"
Weight: 30lbs(14kg)
As far as I'm aware the amps in the avr have tested rather well. The various dbt tests done between various solid state amps (avr or external) within their limits afaik have shown that you can't distinguish them. I've not been had anything I'd consider an overt difference over my several avrs and power amps other than higher output capability. I buy amps accordingly, if you want to get into how such a SS amp "sounds" I'm not your guy as I'm of the opinion they're so similar as not to be worth worrying about in my system(s).

That said, your speakers are more sensitive than mine are (86.5 dB for mine, Sierra-1s across the front) and am using surrounds/rear surrounds (89 and 87 dB) on the avr as well and have no issues but I'm rarely trying more than -10 MV setting (depends on the soundtrack tho, some I do play at 0). I have used power amps (250-300w/ch) with these speakers but for my purposes there was no advantage to the power amp so they got put to use elsewhere.

A direct a/b level matched comparison with amp vs avr isn't easy to setup, but was thinking if you're hearing this brightness with your avr taxed by all speakers then try it with just your fronts on the avr vs your current power amp you could perhaps either run into the same brightness at higher levels...or not.

I know a lot of people claim power amps make their speakers sing and all that.....just not my experience over the years with such amps with various speakers....
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post #13177 of 13194 Unread 01-24-2016, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hltr View Post
Given that you can find these for under $1,000 used, would you folks still recommend the 4520CI or something newer and why? The multi zones and Ethernet hub would meet my needs nicely.


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It depends. If you're interested in Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, or Auro3D, you'd need to look elsewhere. Likewise, if you're interested in your receiver being able to pass HDCP 2.2-encoded 4K sources, the 4520CI isn't for you. However, if object-based audio and 4K isn't important, then the 4520CI is a great choice.
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post #13178 of 13194 Unread 01-24-2016, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post
It depends. If you're interested in Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, or Auro3D, you'd need to look elsewhere. Likewise, if you're interested in your receiver being able to pass HDCP 2.2-encoded 4K sources, the 4520CI isn't for you. However, if object-based audio and 4K isn't important, then the 4520CI is a great choice.

Thanks. Can it send different HDMI inputs to both outs simultaneously?


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post #13179 of 13194 Unread 01-24-2016, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
As far as I'm aware the amps in the avr have tested rather well. The various dbt tests done between various solid state amps (avr or external) within their limits afaik have shown that you can't distinguish them. I've not been had anything I'd consider an overt difference over my several avrs and power amps other than higher output capability. I buy amps accordingly, if you want to get into how such a SS amp "sounds" I'm not your guy as I'm of the opinion they're so similar as not to be worth worrying about in my system(s).

That said, your speakers are more sensitive than mine are (86.5 dB for mine, Sierra-1s across the front) and am using surrounds/rear surrounds (89 and 87 dB) on the avr as well and have no issues but I'm rarely trying more than -10 MV setting (depends on the soundtrack tho, some I do play at 0). I have used power amps (250-300w/ch) with these speakers but for my purposes there was no advantage to the power amp so they got put to use elsewhere.

A direct a/b level matched comparison with amp vs avr isn't easy to setup, but was thinking if you're hearing this brightness with your avr taxed by all speakers then try it with just your fronts on the avr vs your current power amp you could perhaps either run into the same brightness at higher levels...or not.

I know a lot of people claim power amps make their speakers sing and all that.....just not my experience over the years with such amps with various speakers....
Yeah, I've felt this way for a long time. I've always said "when comparing amplifiers with volume matched levels without distortion why would there be a difference?" To me, it feels like someone saying a Lamborghini at 60mph is a different speed than a Chevy at 60mph.

I'm just wondering if with 9 channels driven my 4520 is running out of gas. My out-of-pocket will be about $180 net (after selling current heights amp). For 90% of what I watch (at -20dB or less) I'm positive it will make zero difference.

The only question is the 10% of the time I'm over -10dB, will it make a difference and is that worth $180?
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post #13180 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hltr View Post
Thanks. Can it send different HDMI inputs to both outs simultaneously?


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Yes if you are talking about the main zone and zone 4. There are two HDMI outs in the main zone that will both reflect the same input.
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post #13181 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 02:00 PM
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Yes if you are talking about the main zone and zone 4. There are two HDMI outs in the main zone that will both reflect the same input.
Just quick... Does Zone 4 work as an independent output? (With sound?)

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post #13182 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Yeah, I've felt this way for a long time. I've always said "when comparing amplifiers with volume matched levels without distortion why would there be a difference?" To me, it feels like someone saying a Lamborghini at 60mph is a different speed than a Chevy at 60mph.

I'm just wondering if with 9 channels driven my 4520 is running out of gas. My out-of-pocket will be about $180 net (after selling current heights amp). For 90% of what I watch (at -20dB or less) I'm positive it will make zero difference.

The only question is the 10% of the time I'm over -10dB, will it make a difference and is that worth $180?
That's only $18 for each percent! I'd say....maybe.
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post #13183 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
That's only $18 for each percent! I'd say....maybe.
Lol. I just wonder if it will make any difference. I also decided that if I get it I'll use the 4th unused channel for a tactile transducer...i.e. Buttkicker.
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post #13184 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Lol. I just wonder if it will make any difference. I also decided that if I get it I'll use the 4th unused channel for a tactile transducer...i.e. Buttkicker.
Would you use the channel or the Sub out #2 ?

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post #13185 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mrkalel View Post
Would you use the channel or the Sub out #2 ?
I'd have to split one of my sub outs from the receiver....and maybe get one of those RCA inline 50hz low pass filters (receiver is XO'd @ 80Hz so I might be able to get away without it). I was just thinking up ideas for the 4th channel and thought of a buttkicker. I'm certainly not going to spend too much money for that if I do it.
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post #13186 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I'd have to split one of my sub outs from the receiver....and maybe get one of those RCA inline 50hz low pass filters (receiver is XO'd @ 80Hz). I was just thinking up ideas for the 4th channel and thought of a buttkicker. I'm certainly not going to spend too much money for that if I do it.
What I did notice is when I had my Buttkicker on Sub 2… I got alot of pops which translated to random big bumps.
I disconnected.. And never really tested again...

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post #13187 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mrkalel View Post
Just quick... Does Zone 4 work as an independent output? (With sound?)
Zone 4 HDMI output is an independent, unprocessed matrix path.

Whatever HDMI input you select for that output, it will pass through as though it were passing through a simple switcher, i.e. audio+video will be untouched. It requires another HDMI sink (e.g. a 2nd room TV or receiver) to decode the HDMI signal and process it.
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post #13188 of 13194 Unread 01-25-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by batpig View Post
Zone 4 HDMI output is an independent, unprocessed matrix path.

Whatever HDMI input you select for that output, it will pass through as though it were passing through a simple switcher, i.e. audio+video will be untouched. It requires another HDMI sink (e.g. a 2nd room TV or receiver) to decode the HDMI signal and process it.
You're the best.

(I also guess this is why my HDMI Monitor (no speakers) wasn't working.

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Hey guys, I'm experiencing a problem with the network switch on my Denon 4520. My current set up is a cable modem from Verizon Fios to the Denon via enthernet. Port 1 is for the receiver, port 2 to Amazon Fire TV, port 3 to my Panasonic TV and port 4 was going to my Oppo 103D. My devices are Wi-Fi cable but I'd rather be hardwired when ever possible. I've tried switching cables and ports and believe it is port 4. I also notice no light when cable plugged in. Any ideas or anyone experience similiar issues. I'd like to avoide resetting the processor of the Denon unless anyone has any ideas.

Thanks in advance.

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Hey guys, I'm experiencing a problem with the network switch on my Denon 4520. My current set up is a cable modem from Verizon Fios to the Denon via enthernet. Port 1 is for the receiver, port 2 to Amazon Fire TV, port 3 to my Panasonic TV and port 4 was going to my Oppo 103D. My devices are Wi-Fi cable but I'd rather be hardwired when ever possible. I've tried switching cables and ports and believe it is port 4. I also notice no light when cable plugged in. Any ideas or anyone experience similiar issues. I'd like to avoide resetting the processor of the Denon unless anyone has any ideas.

Thanks in advance.

Life is what you make it.......
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Originally Posted by ril850 View Post
Hey guys, I'm experiencing a problem with the network switch on my Denon 4520. My current set up is a cable modem from Verizon Fios to the Denon via enthernet. Port 1 is for the receiver, port 2 to Amazon Fire TV, port 3 to my Panasonic TV and port 4 was going to my Oppo 103D. My devices are Wi-Fi cable but I'd rather be hardwired when ever possible. I've tried switching cables and ports and believe it is port 4. I also notice no light when cable plugged in. Any ideas or anyone experience similiar issues. I'd like to avoide resetting the processor of the Denon unless anyone has any ideas.

Thanks in advance.
Do you have it set to "always on"?
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post #13192 of 13194 Unread 02-02-2016, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by laserjock II View Post
Do you have it set to "always on"?
Yes and I do and I've tried the Oppo on the #3 port without making any setting changes on either device. I'm just trying to figure out if the port went bad on me.

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post #13193 of 13194 Unread 02-02-2016, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by laserjock II View Post
Do you have it set to "always on"?
Yes and I do and I've tried the Oppo on the #3 port without making any setting changes on either device and its able to make a connection and get on the network. I'm just trying to figure out if the port on my 4520 went bad on me.

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post #13194 of 13194 Unread Today, 05:20 PM
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Hi all,

I've been scanning the pages with a couple of searches and still feel the need to ask directly:

I purchased this 4520CI new over a year ago when the new Atmos units came out. I was working crazy hours and just did a quickie set-up and let it be. I have some days off and wanted to start from scratch, any Ideas?

-Mitsu 837 DLP
-Oppo BD-95
-Oppo DV-980H (for CD and MLS via USB)
-Harmony One Universal remote (not set up at all with these components yet)
-one somewhat ratty tripod for audio set-up
-Spears and Munsil Blu-ray and audio set up.

Paradigm Monitor v.1 and v.2 floor-standers in a 5.1 configuration with two small bookshelves as Height speakers. Room is 24' wide by 12' deep.

I have tried to download the IR codes from Denon, but the 2015 PDF is not opening, Adobe claims that it is missing data. Needed for Harmony set-up?

Regardless, If you have any quick pointers or can point me to the most helpful posts in coping with the manual, it'd be appreciated.

Mike

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