Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread - Page 271 - AVS Forum
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post #8101 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

Thanks. The next thing I'm going to try is bypassing the switch and going ethernet straight from my router right to the Marantz hope that works.



Good idea, is your router supplied by the your Internet provider?
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post #8102 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

Thanks. The next thing I'm going to try is bypassing the switch and going ethernet straight from my router right to the Marantz hope that works.

See http://www.avsforum.com/t/1431914/marantz-av8801-preamp-processor-official-owners-thread/1830#post_22832269

David Ferebee
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post #8103 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 10:45 AM
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Do i need anything special for my remote on for my amp from my av 8801? is there a gauge or thickness i need?

i run an anthem statement p5... can there be a possible mismatch or anything weird?

Thanks
Bill
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post #8104 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 11:19 AM
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FWIW, I'm on uverse. No issues or special setup on the uverse router, my 8801 works fine.
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post #8105 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 11:54 AM
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Thanks for the feed the feedback. I had three hours before work to make all the Connections including wide speakers. Ran Audyssey at seven locations. Did not leave me any time to actually listen to anything. I'm off work tomorrow, I get to play with my new toy. Ill report back after initial impressions.

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post #8106 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baranowski View Post

Do i need anything special for my remote on for my amp from my av 8801? is there a gauge or thickness i need?

i run an anthem statement p5... can there be a possible mismatch or anything weird?

Thanks
Bill



You mean the trigger? Some have reported mismatches with their amps I know.
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post #8107 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

Thanks for the feed the feedback. I had three hours before work to make all the Connections including wide speakers. Ran Audyssey at seven locations. Did not leave me any time to actually listen to anything. I'm off work tomorrow, I get to play with my new toy. Ill report back after initial impressions.



A day off will be nice to play with your new toy smile.gif wait until you hear a good DTS or TrueHD soundtrack from a blu ray disc, your not going to be able to wipe the smile off of your face.
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post #8108 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi comfynumb, if the BD player had a recent update maybe the audio settings got change back to default. Double check audio output is set to Bitstream and Secondary Audio is disabled.



Error on my part secondary audio was on, thanks.
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post #8109 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 03:06 PM
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Ok..."trigger" do i need to know anything to make it easier?
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post #8110 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by baranowski View Post

Ok..."trigger" do i need to know anything to make it easier?



Hi, are using the triggers to turn your amp(s) on?
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post #8111 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

FWIW, I'm on uverse. No issues or special setup on the uverse router, my 8801 works fine.

Good to know. Are you straight from the 2wire Uverse modem to the 8801 or thought a switch?

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post #8112 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

Hi, are using the triggers to turn your amp(s) on?

yes, i am looking to buy the cable/ wire to trigger my amp on from my marantz.
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post #8113 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baranowski View Post

yes, i am looking to buy the cable/ wire to trigger my amp on from my marantz.



The cable is a 1/8" mini to an 1/8" mini and available at radio shack or Monoprice. I don't think a thicker or more expensive cable would make any difference smile.gif
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post #8114 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

The cable is a 1/8" mini to an 1/8" mini and available at radio shack or Monoprice. I don't think a thicker or more expensive cable would make any difference smile.gif
comfy's right, but also make sure you get the MONO cable (not stereo version), as some have reported problems when not using a mono trigger cable...
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Marantz AV 8801 Processor, Emotiva XPR-5 Amplifier, Panasonic 65" ST30 Plasma, Yamaha BD-S2900 Blu-ray, Yamaha CDC-697 CD Player, Yamaha TT-500U Turntable, w/Signet TK5e, JBL ES100 Fronts, JBL LC2 Center, JBL ES30 Surrounds & 2 JBL ES250P Subwoofers
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post #8115 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
The cable is a 1/8" mini to an 1/8" mini and available at radio shack or Monoprice. I don't think a thicker or more expensive cable would make any difference

Can you give a more specific description of the cable or the link?
The search does not show anything for 1/8" mini to an 1/8" mini or 1/8" mini to an 1/8" mini trigger cable

Thanks

Greg
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post #8116 of 12214 Old 09-12-2013, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt-hifi View Post

Thanks for your advice, Audiofan. I'll get a rug put in tomorrow, move the couch, implement your recommended settings and re-run the calibration and report back. Phew, it's a relief that I don't need the attenuator, otherwise, I would have defeated the main purpose of getting those powerful amps in the first place. I really appreciate your advice

Thanks to all who suggested the acoustic panels. Let me try Audiofan's suggestions first and see how things improve before pursuing those wall treatments.

Quick report back...

I moved the couch forward about 2 feet, laid down a large area rug in the center of the room and then re-ran Audyssey. The surround speaker trims have now inched towards closer to zero then before but the FL and FR are about the same as before.

The area rug helps tame the listening room a bit, it dampens the sound a bit and takes some of the harshness out. On Audyssey mode, the bass still sounded a little thin. So, I made a few iterations of changes, changing the speakers to all small, set crossover to first to 80 Hz and then 120 Hz with LFE+Main. I then gave up on connecting the two front subs to the SW1 and SW2. I reconnected the subs to FL and FR pre-outs. I moved the Hsu sub from basement to the back of the couch as the 3rd sub, connecting it to the SW1. Turned off the front subs and reran the Audyssey. Below is the before and after speaker level readings:
Before:
FL: -8.0
FR: -9.0
Sub1: -10.0
Sub2: -10.0
SRL: -9.0
SRR: -7.5
SRB-L: -11.5
SRB-R: -11.5

After:
FL: -8.0
FR: -8.5
Sub1: -7.0
SRL: -3.0
SRR: -2.5
SRB-L: -9.5
SRB-R: -9.5

I then turned the front subs on and calibrated each sub of the 3 subs to be on the same level with the Radioshack SPL meter. The bass sounded better with music and movie, but the midrange and high frequencies sounded okay but lacks the sensitivity and the punch.

In the end, I adjusted all the speaker trims and brought the FL and FR to 0, the rest with relative trim differences from the Audyssey calibration. Now, I get the punch back and everything sounded better than before. That dreadful bathroom harsh sound is virtually gone.

It now makes me wonder what is the downside of manual trim adjustment?

BTW, did anybody find a way to copy the Audyssey instead of Audysset Flat curve to Graphic EQ? It'd be great if I could copy the Audyssey curve and tweak it just a little bit to suit the taste. I really don't care for the Audyssey Flat, the bass is too thin and copying the curve to the Graphic EQ would take too much work to get it to sound great. The Audyssey Byp. L/R sounds the worst in my mind, it boasts the bass so much that it sounds muddy and neglects the mid and high frequencies. Wondering how different MultEQ XT32 modes sound from your systems?

I'm really grateful to all of you for your input, now my system sounds a lot better!

Thanks,
JT
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post #8117 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 12:32 AM
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Question about Audyssey:

I will be getting a new centre channel next week and I'm wondering do I need to:

a) Re-do Audyssey?

b) If so, can I just re-do the centre channel?

Cheers.

Proc: Marantz AV8801, Amp(L + R): Densen B-150 Amp(C + Surrounds): Maratntz SR-9600, Blu-Ray Player: Cambridge Audio 651BD, Front Speakers: Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Centre: Dynaudio Contour S C, Rears: Legend Joey 2, Sub: Ruark Log-Rhythm, Screen: Sony KDL 55W900A LED LCD
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post #8118 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taake View Post

Question about Audyssey:

I will be getting a new centre channel next week and I'm wondering do I need to:

a) Re-do Audyssey?

b) If so, can I just re-do the centre channel?

Cheers.

You need to re run Auydyssey wink.gif
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post #8119 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt-hifi View Post

Quick report back...

I moved the couch forward about 2 feet, laid down a large area rug in the center of the room and then re-ran Audyssey. The surround speaker trims have now inched towards closer to zero then before but the FL and FR are about the same as before.

The area rug helps tame the listening room a bit, it dampens the sound a bit and takes some of the harshness out. On Audyssey mode, the bass still sounded a little thin. So, I made a few iterations of changes, changing the speakers to all small, set crossover to first to 80 Hz and then 120 Hz with LFE+Main. I then gave up on connecting the two front subs to the SW1 and SW2. I reconnected the subs to FL and FR pre-outs. I moved the Hsu sub from basement to the back of the couch as the 3rd sub, connecting it to the SW1. Turned off the front subs and reran the Audyssey. Below is the before and after speaker level readings:
Before:
FL: -8.0
FR: -9.0
Sub1: -10.0
Sub2: -10.0
SRL: -9.0
SRR: -7.5
SRB-L: -11.5
SRB-R: -11.5

After:
FL: -8.0
FR: -8.5
Sub1: -7.0
SRL: -3.0
SRR: -2.5
SRB-L: -9.5
SRB-R: -9.5

I then turned the front subs on and calibrated each sub of the 3 subs to be on the same level with the Radioshack SPL meter. The bass sounded better with music and movie, but the midrange and high frequencies sounded okay but lacks the sensitivity and the punch.

In the end, I adjusted all the speaker trims and brought the FL and FR to 0, the rest with relative trim differences from the Audyssey calibration. Now, I get the punch back and everything sounded better than before. That dreadful bathroom harsh sound is virtually gone.

It now makes me wonder what is the downside of manual trim adjustment?

BTW, did anybody find a way to copy the Audyssey instead of Audysset Flat curve to Graphic EQ? It'd be great if I could copy the Audyssey curve and tweak it just a little bit to suit the taste. I really don't care for the Audyssey Flat, the bass is too thin and copying the curve to the Graphic EQ would take too much work to get it to sound great. The Audyssey Byp. L/R sounds the worst in my mind, it boasts the bass so much that it sounds muddy and neglects the mid and high frequencies. Wondering how different MultEQ XT32 modes sound from your systems?

I'm really grateful to all of you for your input, now my system sounds a lot better!

That's good news indeed , congrats smile.gif
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post #8120 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yankee14 View Post

Quote:
The cable is a 1/8" mini to an 1/8" mini and available at radio shack or Monoprice. I don't think a thicker or more expensive cable would make any difference

Can you give a more specific description of the cable or the link?
The search does not show anything for 1/8" mini to an 1/8" mini or 1/8" mini to an 1/8" mini trigger cable

Thanks

Greg



It's a 3.5 mm or 1/8" mono cable. Just call RS or monoprice and ask for that. I can't seem to find a link either but it's too early to be up smile.gif
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post #8121 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt-hifi View Post

It now makes me wonder what is the downside of manual trim adjustment?

I have not found any.

I use a Radio Shack SPL meter to check everything after Audessey has run.

I have always had to adjust my subs up and my front highs and wides down.

Anything you have to do to make your system sound better to you is ok in my book!

Keep fiddling around until things sound the best to you.

David Ferebee
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post #8122 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 05:49 AM
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Just be sure to do the trims after Audyssy . Use a spl meter to set the levels. 75db is a good choice. Leave Audyssey enabled after you do the trim adjustment in the manual adjust..
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post #8123 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discodol View Post

I have not found any.

I use a Radio Shack SPL meter to check everything after Audessey has run.

I have always had to adjust my subs up and my front highs and wides down.

Anything you have to do to make your system sound better to you is ok in my book!

Keep fiddling around until things sound the best to you.
Are you using the internal test tones to "manually" check and adjust the levels?

Lombardi said it:
Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence."

My System

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post #8124 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by craig john View Post

Are you using the internal test tones to "manually" check and adjust the levels?

Yes.

David Ferebee
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post #8125 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 06:19 AM
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Are you aware that Audyssey's room correction/EQ is disabled when the internal test tones are played?

Lombardi said it:
Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence."

My System

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post #8126 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt-hifi View Post

Quick report back...

I moved the couch forward about 2 feet, laid down a large area rug in the center of the room and then re-ran Audyssey. The surround speaker trims have now inched towards closer to zero then before but the FL and FR are about the same as before.

The area rug helps tame the listening room a bit, it dampens the sound a bit and takes some of the harshness out. On Audyssey mode, the bass still sounded a little thin. So, I made a few iterations of changes, changing the speakers to all small, set crossover to first to 80 Hz and then 120 Hz with LFE+Main. I then gave up on connecting the two front subs to the SW1 and SW2. I reconnected the subs to FL and FR pre-outs. I moved the Hsu sub from basement to the back of the couch as the 3rd sub, connecting it to the SW1. Turned off the front subs and reran the Audyssey. Below is the before and after speaker level readings:
Before:
FL: -8.0
FR: -9.0
Sub1: -10.0
Sub2: -10.0
SRL: -9.0
SRR: -7.5
SRB-L: -11.5
SRB-R: -11.5

After:
FL: -8.0
FR: -8.5
Sub1: -7.0
SRL: -3.0
SRR: -2.5
SRB-L: -9.5
SRB-R: -9.5

I then turned the front subs on and calibrated each sub of the 3 subs to be on the same level with the Radioshack SPL meter. The bass sounded better with music and movie, but the midrange and high frequencies sounded okay but lacks the sensitivity and the punch.

In the end, I adjusted all the speaker trims and brought the FL and FR to 0, the rest with relative trim differences from the Audyssey calibration. Now, I get the punch back and everything sounded better than before. That dreadful bathroom harsh sound is virtually gone.

It now makes me wonder what is the downside of manual trim adjustment?

BTW, did anybody find a way to copy the Audyssey instead of Audysset Flat curve to Graphic EQ? It'd be great if I could copy the Audyssey curve and tweak it just a little bit to suit the taste. I really don't care for the Audyssey Flat, the bass is too thin and copying the curve to the Graphic EQ would take too much work to get it to sound great. The Audyssey Byp. L/R sounds the worst in my mind, it boasts the bass so much that it sounds muddy and neglects the mid and high frequencies. Wondering how different MultEQ XT32 modes sound from your systems?

I'm really grateful to all of you for your input, now my system sounds a lot better!

I really think you should at least try some of your settings that you were shuffling through, but with LFE+Main switched just to LFE only. it still sounds to me like you are having slight integration issues between your subs and your mains, which is really no surprise, since audyssey doesn't correct this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

Are you aware that Audyssey's room correction/EQ is disabled when the internal test tones are played?

a better option would be a disc that runs the same pink noise that you can run outside the 8801 on your player that would use the after-audyssey calibrated pink noise.

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #8127 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 07:38 AM
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I just hooked up the 8801 last night. I used 8003 for quite a few years. Amazing difference in the multichannel sounds.

I am a disappointed in the 2-channel Pure Direct sound compared to the 8003. Maybe just maybe, i need to break in the amp to warm up the sound.

**crosses fingers**

Certified Grade "A" Vidiot through and through - Gaming daily on NAD M25, Marantz AV8801, Diapson Adamantes III (L/R) , PSB synchony one(CENTER), POLK LSi FX (sides) Polk LSi 9 (rears) - 7.1 for life! 

SEE SETUP BELOW

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99629181@N06/

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post #8128 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkad View Post

Is there a way to adjust the speaker levels without hearing the test tone? I wish there was a simple trim-on-the-fly button on the remote, instead of having to dig into the menu and hear the test tone. Maybe I'm missing something?

Did you ever find discrete commands for the channel levels? If so I need them. Thanks!
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post #8129 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 07:44 AM
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Looking for discrete channel level commands for the AV8801. Would like to adjust each channel level independently on the fly. Does anyone have hex commands or serial commands for this?
Marantz has been no help on this. Thanks.
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post #8130 of 12214 Old 09-13-2013, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baranowski View Post

yes, i am looking to buy the cable/ wire to trigger my amp on from my marantz.

To connect from the Marantz AV8801 to your Anthem P5 you need 3.5mm audio cables. Monoprice sells them (3.5mm Stereo Plug/Plug M/M Cable). The cables Monoprice sells, and almost anyone else sells for that matter, are stereo. I've found stereo generally works but I use stereo to mono adapter plugs, also from Monoprice, just to be sure. ( Monoprice search: 3.5mm Mono Plug to 3.5mm Stereo Jack Adaptor - Gold Plated) The cables and adapters connect with a satisfying click. As I'm sure you have found out, anytime you mess with the back of the P5 there is a chance of moving the switch which selects between external trigger, auto on, and on by switch. It is also easy to hit the XLR/RCA selector switches. Accidentally changing a switch setting can lead to a lot of head scratching!

I have an AV8801 connected to a P5 using these cables for the trigger function and it works very well.
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Reply Receivers, Amps, and Processors

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Ken Kreisel Dxd 12012 Subwoofer , Marantz Av8801 , Receivers Amplifiers , Audyssey , Integra
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