Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread - Page 299 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8941 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post

What is the ETA on these reviews?



I'm not positive in the next couple of months I guess.
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post #8942 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by spentmuch View Post

So let's say that hypothetically I am now expecting to receive an 8801 next Tuesday...Perhaps some of the already wise and familiar owners can direct me to where I can pre-read about some set-up tips to get the best sound it's capable of ?  (I already feel a  little apologetic asking this question because I'm sure that somewhere on this forum there must be a thread on the topic...I just couldn't find it so far). Give a 'newbee' a hand, please.

Thanks

Just get into the audio settings area and mess around. The unit will guide you in setting up audyssey once you hook everything up, and once run you have all kinds of ways to cater the sound additionally for you. Start out with Dynamic EQ on and Dynamic Volume off.

Dynamic EQ takes the lows (and while not as drastic, the highs) and boosts them anytime you are listening below reference level, so many feel it adds some depth to the lows and fills in the sound better.

Dynamic Volume takes the very loud and very soft scenes in a movie and kind of "normalizes" the volume. Good for listening at night when others are attempting to sleep, but otherwise useless. I have never turned it on once.

MDAX takes compressed audio signals and tries to re-inject content that would have been "lost" during the compression process.

For speaker setup, if you are using a sub, always make sure your mains are set to "small" to enable bass management (aka bass redirection to your subs)

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post #8943 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post

What is the ETA on these reviews?

I'm pretty sure mine will be coming in the January issue, which means mid-December.

David Vaughn Blu-ray Reviewer / Technical Writer Sound & Vision Magazine (Print & Online)
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post #8944 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 03:15 PM
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I just spent a bit of the afternoon listening to the 8801 and comparing the sound to my Anthem. And, so far so good. While I couldn't exactly replicate the setup (I have analog going to the Anthem and was using HDMI to the 8801 so probably not fair to the Anthem but as I would have it), I think it was good enough to give me a good test. Sound was solid and by no means warm - seemed very consistent with my Anthem and perhaps a bit "more" presence in many ways, though that could have been the benefit of using the HDMI connection. While on some tracks it seemed that the soundstage was a bit reduced though still with good detail which surprised me, other tracks never sounded so good - in fact one in particular, Don't Explain from the Herbie Hancock Possibilities album, made me do a double take at the qualities and transparency that I was hearing in both the male and female vocals.

I listened using both the "Pure Direct" and the "Music" modes - switching back and forth on the remote. Not sure there was much difference to me. Also listened through analog connection into the CD in and it wasn't as good as the HDMI.

Excellent first experience. Have a few more days to play around and hope it stays the same.
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post #8945 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 03:24 PM
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Up thread there was a comment that the 8801 lacked the flexibility of the Anthem in having the Music and Cinema modes and being able to switch between them. Isn't that what the movie, music, game and pure modes are which show up on the remote? It seemed like it was possible to switch between them on the fly. Am I assuming correctly that the settings for each can be programmed and if so, wouldn't switching between the music and movie modes be the same as the switching between music and cinema on the Anthem?

I'll have to look at the manual online but am hoping someone can explain the uses/benefits of these modes. Thanks!
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post #8946 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DanielG View Post

I just spent a bit of the afternoon listening to the 8801 and comparing the sound to my Anthem. And, so far so good. While I couldn't exactly replicate the setup (I have analog going to the Anthem and was using HDMI to the 8801 so probably not fair to the Anthem but as I would have it), I think it was good enough to give me a good test. Sound was solid and by no means warm - seemed very consistent with my Anthem and perhaps a bit "more" presence in many ways, though that could have been the benefit of using the HDMI connection. While on some tracks it seemed that the soundstage was a bit reduced though still with good detail which surprised me, other tracks never sounded so good - in fact one in particular, Don't Explain from the Herbie Hancock Possibilities album, made me do a double take at the qualities and transparency that I was hearing in both the male and female vocals.

I listened using both the "Pure Direct" and the "Music" modes - switching back and forth on the remote. Not sure there was much difference to me. Also listened through analog connection into the CD in and it wasn't as good as the HDMI.

Excellent first experience. Have a few more days to play around and hope it stays the same.



Great! If you get a chance try running Audyssey, after a good calibration you will never look back smile.gif
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post #8947 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by DanielG View Post

Up thread there was a comment that the 8801 lacked the flexibility of the Anthem in having the Music and Cinema modes and being able to switch between them. Isn't that what the movie, music, game and pure modes are which show up on the remote? It seemed like it was possible to switch between them on the fly. Am I assuming correctly that the settings for each can be programmed and if so, wouldn't switching between the music and movie modes be the same as the switching between music and cinema on the Anthem?

I'll have to look at the manual online but am hoping someone can explain the uses/benefits of these modes. Thanks!

No, I think that's different. Music and cinema settngs I'm talking about are in regard to the speaker configuration and bass management. The Anthem allowed two completely different speaker and bass management setups in that regard. Had nothing to do with DSP modes that I think are what those buttons are changing re. the Marantz.

It's probably a moot point at this time but I was just curious about it.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #8948 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 04:54 PM
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HI,

I will be picking up an 8801 this week and had a question about XLR. I didn't realize over the years some would be wired differently? I have the Sunfire Signature 7x400 watt amp. Check out this pic. It looks like the hot is in a different place so I guess I will not be able to use the balanced cables ugh.

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post #8949 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Norcuron View Post

HI,

I will be picking up an 8801 this week and had a question about XLR. I didn't realize over the years some would be wired differently? I have the Sunfire Signature 7x400 watt amp. Check out this pic. It looks like the hot is in a different place so I guess I will not be able to use the balanced cables ugh.



First off congrats! I know it appears that the wires are reversed but they are not, don't worry about the XLR pin configuration your good to go. I've been using a Sunfire amp with the 8801 for 10 months smile.gif
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post #8950 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post


I'm pretty sure mine will be coming in the January issue, which means mid-December.

March Stereophile for mine.


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post #8951 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Just get into the audio settings area and mess around. The unit will guide you in setting up audyssey once you hook everything up, and once run you have all kinds of ways to cater the sound additionally for you. Start out with Dynamic EQ on and Dynamic Volume off.

Dynamic EQ takes the lows (and while not as drastic, the highs) and boosts them anytime you are listening below reference level, so many feel it adds some depth to the lows and fills in the sound better.

Dynamic Volume takes the very loud and very soft scenes in a movie and kind of "normalizes" the volume. Good for listening at night when others are attempting to sleep, but otherwise useless. I have never turned it on once.

MDAX takes compressed audio signals and tries to re-inject content that would have been "lost" during the compression process.

For speaker setup, if you are using a sub, always make sure your mains are set to "small" to enable bass management (aka bass redirection to your subs)



I havent run Audessy for a while; should the "small" settiing for the front speakers be set before running Audessy? Or does it not matter?
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post #8952 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 06:30 PM
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It doesn't matter. Many folks have mains that clain full-range but truly aren't. And even with mine, which aren't close to full range, audyssey still sets them at the "Large" setting. I always manually go back in and set them to small then adjust the crossover point up to between 80 and 100hz and let my subs handle everything below that smile.gif I suggest you do the same but without knowing what type of main LR speakers you have, I can't comment much further!

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post #8953 of 12802 Old 11-03-2013, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcuron View Post

HI,

I will be picking up an 8801 this week and had a question about XLR. I didn't realize over the years some would be wired differently? I have the Sunfire Signature 7x400 watt amp. Check out this pic. It looks like the hot is in a different place so I guess I will not be able to use the balanced cables ugh.

It appears the Sunfire has the typical AES standard pin out on the XLR connection; pin two hot. It shouldn't be a problem.

The current output description is interesting. The one ohm output impedance doesn't qualify the output as close to a current source. The types of speakers intended for use with that output, based on the text, have impedances that can approach zero ohms at some frequencies which can be very hard on an amplifier. The one ohm output impedance is likely there so that the amplifier "sees" at least one ohm of impedance and doesn't self destruct or go into some protective mode when driving certain speakers.

A "real" current output would have a very high output impedance so that it could drive a current into a load that has a lower impedance. Within its capabilities the current source would supply any voltage (volts) required to supply the desired output current. A voltage source or output has a very low impedance. Within its capabilities it will supply as much current (as many amperes) as required to for achieve the desired voltage. Most loudspeakers are designed to work with voltage sources. A voltage source amplifier will supply more current (double in this case) to a speaker with a four ohm impedance than an eight ohm speaker so that the desired voltage output is achieved. For this example we will skip some of details and say: voltage = current x impedance, since the voltage source sees one-half the impedance at four ohms it will supply twice the current to maintain the same voltage output as it would have had at eight ohms.
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post #8954 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcuron View Post

HI,

I will be picking up an 8801 this week and had a question about XLR. I didn't realize over the years some would be wired differently? I have the Sunfire Signature 7x400 watt amp. Check out this pic. It looks like the hot is in a different place so I guess I will not be
I

I'll pile on this one too. Marantz needs to take that out of the manual. The way the unit XLRs are wired has been the standard for many, many years. The information does nothing except cause confusion as it has, once again, done so.
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Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #8955 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post

It appears the Sunfire has the typical AES standard pin out on the XLR connection; pin two hot. It shouldn't be a problem.

The current output description is interesting. The one ohm output impedance doesn't qualify the output as close to a current source. The types of speakers intended for use with that output, based on the text, have impedances that can approach zero ohms at some frequencies which can be very hard on an amplifier. The one ohm output impedance is likely there so that the amplifier "sees" at least one ohm of impedance and doesn't self destruct or go into some protective mode when driving certain speakers.

The current source outputs are there to provided a different type of sound....a more laid back or perhaps "tube like" sound according to some, due to the additional series resistance.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #8956 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post

It appears the Sunfire has the typical AES standard pin out on the XLR connection; pin two hot. It shouldn't be a problem.

The current output description is interesting. The one ohm output impedance doesn't qualify the output as close to a current source. The types of speakers intended for use with that output, based on the text, have impedances that can approach zero ohms at some frequencies which can be very hard on an amplifier. The one ohm output impedance is likely there so that the amplifier "sees" at least one ohm of impedance and doesn't self destruct or go into some protective mode when driving certain speakers.

A "real" current output would have a very high output impedance so that it could drive a current into a load that has a lower impedance. Within its capabilities the current source would supply any voltage (volts) required to supply the desired output current. A voltage source or output has a very low impedance. Within its capabilities it will supply as much current (as many amperes) as required to for achieve the desired voltage. Most loudspeakers are designed to work with voltage sources. A voltage source amplifier will supply more current (double in this case) to a speaker with a four ohm impedance than an eight ohm speaker so that the desired voltage output is achieved. For this example we will skip some of details and say: voltage = current x impedance, since the voltage source sees one-half the impedance at four ohms it will supply twice the current to maintain the same voltage output as it would have had at eight ohms.

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Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

The current source outputs are there to provided a different type of sound....a more laid back or perhaps "tube like" sound according to some, due to the additional series resistance.

Yep, all there is I think is a like a 5 ohm resistor in line to create the "color" that is common on tubes smile.gif Oh, and I ran the sunfire 7401 on my marantz for several months and it worked like a charm!

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post #8957 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post


Yep, all there is I think is a like a 5 ohm resistor in line to create the "color" that is common on tubes smile.gif Oh, and I ran the sunfire 7401 on my marantz for several months and it worked like a charm!



Did you personally like the current outputs on the Sunfire beast? I've really never gave them a good listen.
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post #8958 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 07:06 AM
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I never even tried em honestly. I play my music entirely too loud on some occassions. I needed all the power I could get.

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post #8959 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 07:16 AM
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I never even tried em honestly. I play my music entirely too loud on some occassions. I needed all the power I could get.



Lol! Wait that's my excuse biggrin.gif
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post #8960 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 07:35 AM
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A question about the 4 slot ethernet hub. Is this only for incoming signals or can a satellite box, blu ray player and television be attached? In other words, can an ethernet be attached from the wall to the Marantz 8801 and then the signal go from the 8801 to the satellite box, blu ray player and tv? Thanks.
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post #8961 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 08:05 AM
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A question about the 4 slot ethernet hub. Is this only for incoming signals or can a satellite box, blu ray player and television be attached? In other words, can an ethernet be attached from the wall to the Marantz 8801 and then the signal go from the 8801 to the satellite box, blu ray player and tv? Thanks.

Yes, I have attached my BD player, plasma and Genie to the ethernet connections on the 8801
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post #8962 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 09:11 AM
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Selden,

Thanks! Your comments once again are extremely helpful - as you can tell, I am quite far down on the learning curve at this point.
Sorry for the delay in responding. While I enjoy answering questions for which I know the answer, quite often I spend time with my HT system instead of being on AVS smile.gif
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My guess is that I will need either a switcher or matrix. Maybe the benefit of the matrix is that I think the good ones also distribute the audio over the HDMI as well as the video and a switcher wouldn't???
Audio is sent over HDMI cabling on the same wires as the video but during the "vertical retrace interval". Switchers and matrix units both should pass through whatever the source devices provide. In some cases they might include amplifiers and equalizers to improve signal quality when long cable runs are involved.
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Is it possible to use the first HDMI out directly to my primary tv and the second HDMI out for the main zone for the switcher to get the main video feed to whichever other area of the house that I may want it? Seems like that could work and then it is just a question of getting the audio there. I also will have a separate AV receiver for my bedroom zone and so would just need to run a feed from the processor to that receiver somehow in full (perhaps from the second HDMI output and let that receiver do all the work for that zone. For the other zones with small tvs and stereo in-wall speakers perhaps the switcher and analog two channel for zones 2/3 would be fine... Luckily I don't care much about the quality of the video/audio to two of my four zones and so maybe a switcher attached to the second output would work Not sure if any of this makes sense.
Be careful with your terminology. A switcher has multiple inputs driving a single output. A splitter has one input and drives multiple outputs. I don't think a simple splitter will work by itself the way you want because of the downgrading of the audio and video by the player device to match whatever you have in the remote room. For example, if the splitter is connected to one of the main zone "monitor" outputs and you're watching a Blu-ray disc on a remote 720p stereo TV, the Blu-ray player will downgrade its output to 720p stereo. If you're watching it at the same time in the main zone, that's all the main zone will get, too, even if it has a 1080p projector with a 7.2 speaker configuration. (e.g. maybe you're watching a movie and someone has to go to another room but wants to continue watching it.)
Quote:
Can the matrix input be attached to one of the main 8801 HDMI outputs and so I only need a matrix with 1 or probably 2 inputs and then 4 outputs though not sure they make less than a 4x4. How much would a solid high quality HDMI matrix run? $300? $600? Seems like some online are $150-250 and others are well over $1k.

Given the complexity of your desired configuration, I really think you need to discuss it in the whole-house av distribution forum. I have simply not thought about such a layout and can't provide the kinds of answers you need. For example, people there should be able to tell you which HDMI switches work best and how to avoid problems that they've encountered in similar situations.

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post #8963 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 03:49 PM
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For the audyssey xt33 setup, where do you guys place on the 7th and 8th position? 1 foot forward to the front and side of the main sitting position or 1 foot backward and to the side of the main sitting position?
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post #8964 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 04:04 PM
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The actual location of the last 2 positions isn't really that important, although what is usually pictured would be behind if there isn't a high back or wall to contend with ....


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post #8965 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 04:05 PM
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OK, I have kids thus my life is easily reduced to movie quotes in animated movies......... So, in the words of a minion, "Oh Poop!" I couldn't hold out anymore and ordered a new 8801 from JD.

Lurker no more! Time to tinker. I think it's also time to add Roomie Remote functionality to the room. Upgraditis is back and it ain't cheap!
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post #8966 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 06:08 PM
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My new PSA Triax Sub has an XLR connection. I had to run my standard banana plug style cable under my house for my prior sub so used the standard sub connection to XLR adapter power sound audio included with the triax. My amp has XLR so will use those for all of the pre-amp to amp connections. My question is would it make any difference to get another XLR adapter for the preamp side of my sub cable so I can connect it to the balanced subwoofer connection or should I just connect the preamp side if my sub cable to the unbalanced 8801 connection. Thanks for info.

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post #8967 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 08:13 PM
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Question: When espn goes to commercial from a live broadcast my right tower speaker twitter pops. I have noticed it on other channels where there are live broadcasts and when they go to commercial. This is the only time that it occurs that I am aware of. I have played with compression turning it from off to low and there is no difference. Is this the pre-pro's issue?

Panasonic TC-P65ZT60
Marantz AV8801 pre-pro / MM8077 amp
Martin Logan Motion 50XT Center
Martin Logan Motion 60XT Fronts/40 Rears
REL R-528 SE (2)
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post #8968 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DrMichael View Post

Question: When espn goes to commercial from a live broadcast my right tower speaker twitter pops. I have noticed it on other channels where there are live broadcasts and when they go to commercial. This is the only time that it occurs that I am aware of. I have played with compression turning it from off to low and there is no difference. Is this the pre-pro's issue?
*tweeter

Panasonic TC-P65ZT60
Marantz AV8801 pre-pro / MM8077 amp
Martin Logan Motion 50XT Center
Martin Logan Motion 60XT Fronts/40 Rears
REL R-528 SE (2)
Oppo BDP-103D/Playstation 4/Furman ELITE-20 PF i
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post #8969 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DrMichael View Post

Question: When espn goes to commercial from a live broadcast my right tower speaker twitter pops. I have noticed it on other channels where there are live broadcasts and when they go to commercial. This is the only time that it occurs that I am aware of. I have played with compression turning it from off to low and there is no difference. Is this the pre-pro's issue?

What is your source? Is your source set to output everything in the same display format (1080P, 720P, etc...). If, for example you have a TIVO and it is set to send everything out native, the 8801 clicking, popping, farting, whatever is most likely related to the switching going on in the source device. There is an insane amount of posts on this and in this case, your answer is yes, it is the pre; no it is not. Actually the answer is all in the change in signal coming from the source to the pre. Not a fault, just is...... what it is.....
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post #8970 of 12802 Old 11-04-2013, 08:52 PM
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*tweeter

Use optical from your cable box.
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