Yamaha RX-V 75 Series owners thread - Page 106 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3151 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Sibze View Post
I'd like to add an amp I guess to add more power for the front.
Is the issue which prompts you to want this that you can't play music/movies loudly enough without the current amplifier distorting?

Sorry, you can't add another amp to the current receiver because you don't have preamp outs although there are some possible work arounds I can suggest once I get an answer to my above question.
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post #3152 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Is the issue which prompts you to want this that you can't play music/movies loudly enough without the current amplifier distorting?

Sorry, you can't add another amp to the current receiver because you don't have preamp outs although there are some possible work arounds I can suggest once I get an answer to my above question.
Well, no. I just made another thread in the speakers section. Can I power Polk RTi A5's & CSI A6?

My main concern is: My current center is being overpower by my Polk RTi A5's. I want to upgrade the center to the CSI A6 and was concerned that my current Yamaha would not be able to power that much up front.

My current center I knew I would be upgrading. I got this:
http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/...719236a9a6en02

When I first got my system. Idea was, I could use the subwoofer upstairs for TV watching (that worked perfect, it's great for living room TV watching) then I would use the other speakers as surround speakers. It has worked well except the center.

So I guess my main question comes down to: Will my receiver power the 2 RTi A5's and the CSI A6 with the four smaller speakers on the side and back?
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post #3153 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Sibze View Post
So I guess my main question comes down to: Will my receiver power the 2 RTi A5's and the CSI A6 with the four smaller speakers on the side and back?
If it played the small speakers [efficiency: 89dB/1w/1m] as loudly as you wanted then it will play the new larger ones you are considering just as loud, in fact according to the specs 1dB even louder for the same volume setting so there should be no reason for you to increase your current power amp.

Contrary to popular misconceptions big speakers do not need greater power, however they can take greater power, useful for people that want louder sound.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #3154 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 12:19 PM
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If it played the small speakers [efficiency: 89dB/1w/1m] as loudly as you wanted then it will play the new larger ones you are considering just as loud, in fact according to the specs 1dB even louder for the same volume setting so there should be no reason for you to increase your current power amp.

Contrary to popular misconceptions big speakers do not need greater power, however they can take greater power, useful for people that want louder sound.
Awesome, that's what I wanted to hear. I currently don't have an issue with the volume with all the other speakers only the center speaker. When the tower speakers are kicking out volume during a movies sence it came be hard to hear voices coming from the center speaker.

The center speaker, when put next to the towers is tiny.

From everything I've read the CSI A6 is the way to go, I just wanted to make sure I could power it.

When I was getting the RTi A5's people did not suggest the A7's unless you were pushing a lot of power to them as they were power hungry.
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post #3155 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sibze View Post
Awesome, that's what I wanted to hear. I currently don't have an issue with the volume with all the other speakers only the center speaker. When the tower speakers are kicking out volume during a movies sence it came be hard to hear voices coming from the center speaker.
Have you calibrated the system with the supplied microphone and the free internal software called "YPAO"? Usually it gets it right and sets the relative speaker volumes properly although some people feel a need to bump up the center channel 2 or 3 dB if dialog is hard to make out. I didn't find that to be the case in my setup: it got it right.
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post #3156 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Have you calibrated the system with the supplied microphone and the free internal software called "YPAO"? Usually it gets it right and sets the relative speaker volumes properly although some people feel a need to bump up the center channel 2 or 3 dB if dialog is hard to make out. I didn't find that to be the case in my setup: it got it right.
I have yes. I just feel like the center I have is cheap. I got 5 speakers and a sub for $99... Besy Buy says it's normal price is $599 but come on... it's not worth $599 and I never would have bought the package for $599.

I wish I was home and I could show you the side difference between the speakers. The current center I have is tiny.
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post #3157 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 12:40 PM
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Here ya go

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post #3158 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 12:41 PM
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By comparison. The Polk CSI A6:



This is the RTI A5's that I have and the CSI A6:

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post #3159 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 12:51 PM
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Little speakers are capable of good sound, they just can't play loudly, but unlike bigger speakers they really must have a sub whereas for floor standing speakers it is a good upgrade to add a sub but it is not 100% necessary.
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post #3160 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Little speakers are capable of good sound, they just can't play loudly, but unlike bigger speakers they really must have a sub whereas for floor standing speakers it is a good upgrade to add a sub but it is not 100% necessary.
I agree, but I don't think these are great quality small speakers. The sound coming out of it is getting overwhelmed by the towers
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post #3161 of 3191 Old 12-19-2016, 07:36 PM
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^Those other speakers are much nicer. lol The key to making
any receiver run more efficiently is send the deep bass to an
external subwoofer amp. That alone makes the biggest difference.
You shouldn't need power amps galore, but if you want to spend
a lot go for it.
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post #3162 of 3191 Old 12-20-2016, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kikkenit2 View Post
^Those other speakers are much nicer. lol The key to making
any receiver run more efficiently is send the deep bass to an
external subwoofer amp. That alone makes the biggest difference.
You shouldn't need power amps galore, but if you want to spend
a lot go for it.
Perfect, my two subs are powered subs so that's good.
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post #3163 of 3191 Old 12-22-2016, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibze View Post
So I am a super newby when it comes to this so I apologize, I am trying to learn...

I have the Yamaha rx-v575. Love it, however, I have Polk Audio RTi A5's in the front and a CSI A5 in the center. I would like to give them more power however, I am having a hard time finding info to read up on how to do that.

I'd like to add an amp I guess to add more power for the front.
When you say "add more power" what result are you seeking? Louder ... better efficiency from the speakers ...? Are you having to change the level of Left+Right versus Center to equalize them?

OOPS, I didn't see this second page of replies.

The CSI-A5 appears to be matched to the RTI-A5s, but in my experience, the Center channel needs to be as capable and full-range as you can get. The Center channel does the lion's share of work in a movie: dialog, sound effects, some music, sometimes all three at the same time. Maybe the next model up of Center speaker will help you.

Looking at Amazon, it looks like the RTI-A5 woofers only go to 6-1/2"...? Despite those being towers with bass reflex (?), I wouldn't trust those to go down to 40 hz or so for solid, confident movie bass. So on your RXV575, I'd set the speakers sizes (L, R, C, SL, SR) to "small," which is a misleading label. It really means that instead of sending full-range of frequencies to those speakers, it diverts bass freqs below the bass crossover frequency to the sub along with the discrete LFE channel information. This allegedly lets the main speakers work more efficiently (their woofers aren't tasked with trying to produce frequencies from 30Hz to ~3000Hz all at once), but more importantly, lets the more capable sub produce the really low freqs that it specializes in. I'd also move the bass crossover freq from the default 80Hz to 100Hz or even 110Hz. This will even further help the mains' woofers.

There are articles online that can more explicitly describe just how low 6-1/2" woofers can reliably perform with sustained input (Audioholics is one of several good sites),... I'm summarizing mercilessly.

Immediate effect that you might notice for action movie scenes is a more compelling bass response than before.

You mentioned the Center channel just can't compete with the Left and Right channels. I agree with Zilch, use YPAO to set levels, then check with the test tone or some test tones and sweep tones downloaded from audiocheck.net. I would do this AFTER setting the speaker sizes as I mentioned. See what YPAO comes up with; if it resets them to "large," I put them back to "small."


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibze View Post
Here ya go

I don't know what this is, but I laughed out loud when I saw it. $99? I wouldn't give you $50 for that set. If that's the sub you're using with the bigger Polk speakers, I see a huge problem. Go to SVS/Hsu Research/some other subwoofer maker, to not pass GO, do not collect $200. With the recommendation I made above, you need as hefty a subwoofer as your pocketbook and anyone living with you will permit. Some try to compensate with two lower-grade subwoofers, and though I've read that it helps with evening out the performance of the lower freqs, two smaller subs do not equal the performance of a single larger sub.

“We need more heart in motion pictures. We're all expecting great things.”
A: Yamaha RX-V775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550.


Last edited by ChromeJob; 12-22-2016 at 06:15 PM. Reason: additional information based on later replies THAT i HADN'T SEEN :-\
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post #3164 of 3191 Old 12-22-2016, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
When you say "add more power" what result are you seeking? Louder ... better efficiency from the speakers ...? Are you having to change the level of Left+Right versus Center to equalize them?

OOPS, I didn't see this second page of replies.

The CSI-A5 appears to be matched to the RTI-A5s, but in my experience, the Center channel needs to be as capable and full-range as you can get. The Center channel does the lion's share of work in a movie: dialog, sound effects, some music, sometimes all three at the same time. Maybe the next model up of Center speaker will help you.

Looking at Amazon, it looks like the RTI-A5 woofers only go to 6-1/2"...? Despite those being towers with bass reflex (?), I wouldn't trust those to go down to 40 hz or so for solid, confident movie bass. So on your RXV575, I'd set the speakers sizes (L, R, C, SL, SR) to "small," which is a misleading label. It really means that instead of sending full-range of frequencies to those speakers, it diverts bass freqs below the bass crossover frequency to the sub along with the discrete LFE channel information. This allegedly lets the main speakers work more efficiently (their woofers aren't tasked with trying to produce frequencies from 30Hz to ~3000Hz all at once), but more importantly, lets the more capable sub produce the really low freqs that it specializes in. I'd also move the bass crossover freq from the default 80Hz to 100Hz or even 110Hz. This will even further help the mains' woofers.

There are articles online that can more explicitly describe just how low 6-1/2" woofers can reliably perform with sustained input (Audioholics is one of several good sites),... I'm summarizing mercilessly.

Immediate effect that you might notice for action movie scenes is a more compelling bass response than before.

You mentioned the Center channel just can't compete with the Left and Right channels. I agree with Zilch, use YPAO to set levels, then check with the test tone or some test tones and sweep tones downloaded from audiocheck.net. I would do this AFTER setting the speaker sizes as I mentioned. See what YPAO comes up with; if it resets them to "large," I put them back to "small."




I don't know what this is, but I laughed out loud when I saw it. $99? I wouldn't give you $50 for that set. If that's the sub you're using with the bigger Polk speakers, I see a huge problem. Go to SVS/Hsu Research/some other subwoofer maker, to not pass GO, do not collect $200. With the recommendation I made above, you need as hefty a subwoofer as your pocketbook and anyone living with you will permit. Some try to compensate with two lower-grade subwoofers, and though I've read that it helps with evening out the performance of the lower freqs, two smaller subs do not equal the performance of a single larger sub.
Thanks for the reply!

With the center right now, I feel like during a high volume scene, voices can be hard to hear. I know that the current set of speakers I have are junk hence why I want to upgrade the center.

I have two subs running right now. Neither of them the one in the picture. I have a Sony and a Polk both powered and very strong. Bass hasn't been an issue with those two running.

So from that set I have the center and 4 of the surrounds with the two towers and two subwoofers.
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post #3165 of 3191 Old 12-22-2016, 08:55 PM
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Okay, now I'm thoroughly confused. Please list what you have now:

Left ...__________
Right ...__________
Center ...__________
Surround Left ...__________
Surround Right ...__________
Surround Back-L ...__________
Surround Back-R ...__________
Sub 1 ...__________
Sub 2 ...__________
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post #3166 of 3191 Old 12-23-2016, 07:39 AM
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Hahaha


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Okay, now I'm thoroughly confused. Please list what you have now:

Left ... Polk RTi A5 Tower
Right ...Polk RTi A5 Tower
Center ... Center from the Polk RM6750 (Pictured) - Want to replace with the Polk CSI A6
Surround Left ... From the Polk RM6750
Surround Right ...From the Polk RM6750
Surround Back-L ...From the Polk RM6750
Surround Back-R ...From the Polk RM6750
Sub 1 ...Sony SA-WM500
Sub 2 ... Polk PSW10 - This also might get replaced on Boxing Day (From Canada, eh?)
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post #3167 of 3191 Old 12-23-2016, 07:44 AM
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BTW, thanks for the help everyone. I appreciate it!
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post #3168 of 3191 Old 12-23-2016, 10:29 AM
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Yamaha RX-V 75 Series owners thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibze View Post
So I am a super newby when it comes to this so I apologize, I am trying to learn...



I have the Yamaha rx-v575. Love it, however, I have Polk Audio RTi A5's in the front [and] a CSI A5 in the center. I would like to give them more power however, I am having a hard time finding info to read up on how to do that.



I'd like to add an amp I guess to add more power for the front.
Okay, if you're using the dinky little center speaker from that cheap set, not what you stated above, then DUH -- OF COURSE it's overpowered by A5s.

I'd also ditch the little ones for surrounds (even go down to 5.1 or 6.1) that are comparable to your mains.

Either the CSI A5 or A6 will be an enormous improvement. The 575 will power it all just fine. Case closed.




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“We need more heart in motion pictures. We're all expecting great things.”
A: Yamaha RX-V775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550.


Last edited by ChromeJob; 12-23-2016 at 10:33 AM. Reason: Oh, you are also using some other subs. Yeesh. What a menagerie.
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post #3169 of 3191 Old 12-23-2016, 12:49 PM
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Thank you! Boxing day will be expensive lol
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post #3170 of 3191 Old 12-23-2016, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibze View Post
Thank you! Boxing day will be expensive lol
Haha.... You can often get better deals with direct sellers, many of whom are represented here at AVS. I have a Hsu Research VTF2 sub, goes down to 18hz, bought much cheaper than lesser comparable models at retail stores. It's a honey. SVS is another respected seller, they offer individual speakers and well-respected subs. They offer an in-home trial and free return if not satisfied; don't know if they ship across the border to your country, but I'd look.

You can find reviews of their speakers here and other places; I think SVS speakers are offered in Magnolia showrooms if you have one near you.

“We need more heart in motion pictures. We're all expecting great things.”
A: Yamaha RX-V775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550.

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post #3171 of 3191 Old 12-23-2016, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Haha.... You can often get better deals with direct sellers, many of whom are represented here at AVS. I have a Hsu Research VTF2 sub, goes down to 18hz, bought much cheaper than lesser comparable models at retail stores. It's a honey. SVS is another respected seller, they offer individual speakers and well-respected subs. They offer an in-home trial and free return if not satisfied; don't know if they ship across the border to your country, but I'd look.

You can find reviews of their speakers here and other places; I think SVS speakers are offered in Magnolia showrooms if you have one near you.
I'm in Canada. Nothing is cheap here. I'd love to get an SVS woofer but they are very expensive here and if I buy it in the States our dollar sucks right now.
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post #3172 of 3191 Old 12-29-2016, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibze View Post
I'm in Canada. Nothing is cheap here. I'd love to get an SVS woofer but they are very expensive here and if I buy it in the States our dollar sucks right now.


As you play some movies, you'll notice that 5.1, 6.1 content won't be converted and processed in Pro Logic modes even if selected (at least,that's how my 775 operates), but 2.0 content will. In Straight, 5.1 content will still go to each intended channel, but 2.0 content (movies) will play as plain stereo.

Play some movies and enjoy. Fiddle with settings and experiment. You'll figure it out.


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“We need more heart in motion pictures. We're all expecting great things.”
A: Yamaha RX-V775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550.

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post #3173 of 3191 Old 12-30-2016, 09:32 PM
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Got it up and going. Very noticeable change!

Now to start on the looks of the theatre.

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post #3174 of 3191 Old 12-30-2016, 09:56 PM
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Looks nice but are the surround speakers forward of the couch? There is some flexibility, true, anywhere from 90 to 110 degrees from the front center axis, however they should never be in front of the main listening row:
https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/su...7-1-setup.html
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #3175 of 3191 Old 12-30-2016, 11:22 PM
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Yamaha RX-V 75 Series owners thread

I agree. I err to having surrounds at least 110 from the listening position. Surround back really should be behind the listener, two of them only needed in large rooms imho.


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“We need more heart in motion pictures. We're all expecting great things.”
A: Yamaha RX-V775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550.

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post #3176 of 3191 Old 12-31-2016, 07:08 AM
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I think it's hard to see in the picture but they are right beside the couch. We've moved the couch around a little as I want to add a second row of seating so we were just playing with spacing last night when I took with pic
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post #3177 of 3191 Old 01-02-2017, 08:05 AM
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Adding Sonos Connect/Play 1 to RX-V475

I have a RX-v475 and would like to add Sonos equipment to it to be able to play audio (tuner, CD player, blue ray disk, TV) to a Play 1 speaker in another part of the house. I think I need a Connect hooked to the 475 but not sure which output to use from the 475 to the Connect.


All of the speaker and Audio jacks are taken by surround sound system but I do have vacant A/V Out RCA jacks. If I hook the Connect RCA input jacks to the 475 A/V Out jacks, will the Connect pick up any device playing through the 475 and send it to the Play 1?


Thanks in advance for help.
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post #3178 of 3191 Old 01-04-2017, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
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I have a RX-v475 and would like to add Sonos equipment to it to be able to play audio (tuner, CD player, blue ray disk, TV) to a Play 1 speaker in another part of the house. I think I need a Connect hooked to the 475 but not sure which output to use from the 475 to the Connect.


All of the speaker and Audio jacks are taken by surround sound system but I do have vacant A/V Out RCA jacks. If I hook the Connect RCA input jacks to the 475 A/V Out jacks, will the Connect pick up any device playing through the 475 and send it to the Play 1?


Thanks in advance for help.


Check your manual, analog sources will probably play out, but there may be restrictions on outputting audio from digital sources.


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post #3179 of 3191 Old 01-05-2017, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cicloforza View Post
I have a RX-v475 and would like to add Sonos equipment to it to be able to play audio (tuner, CD player, blue ray disk, TV) to a Play 1 speaker in another part of the house. I think I need a Connect hooked to the 475 but not sure which output to use from the 475 to the Connect.


All of the speaker and Audio jacks are taken by surround sound system but I do have vacant A/V Out RCA jacks. If I hook the Connect RCA input jacks to the 475 A/V Out jacks, will the Connect pick up any device playing through the 475 and send it to the Play 1?


Thanks in advance for help.


it's more about what input does the sonos take? there are multiple input options on the back of the 475. several analog inputs and I believe 1 or 2 digital. Do note though, you wont be able to use the 475 for tv or anything else while you're using it for this purpose.


I'm not real familiar with sonos or play 1, but I'm sort of thinking you leave your 475 alone. Doesn't the sonos act as a receiver too? What's the point of having a 475 if your bluray and other peripherals aren't running through it?

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post #3180 of 3191 Old 01-05-2017, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Sacc Attack View Post
it's more about what input does the sonos take? there are multiple input options on the back of the 475. several analog inputs and I believe 1 or 2 digital. Do note though, you wont be able to use the 475 for tv or anything else while you're using it for this purpose.


I'm not real familiar with sonos or play 1, but I'm sort of thinking you leave your 475 alone. Doesn't the sonos act as a receiver too? What's the point of having a 475 if your bluray and other peripherals aren't running through it?
I think you overlooked OP's statement,

Quote:
... to add Sonos equipment to it to be able to play audio (tuner, CD player, blue ray disk, TV) to a Play 1 speaker in another part of the house....
I don't think movie audio will be played to another room in the house, though an audio CD in the player would be listened, except ... that's digital, and the usual AUD OUT or Zone 2/B outputs are for analog inputs only.

I think a Yamaha AVR with separate PRE-OUTs could be used with some wireless solution, but the AVR would have to be put in STRAIGHT or 2 CH STEREO (or 7 CH) for the remote speaker to receive proper stereo output.

Whether the third party remote/wireless speakers can handle an AVR's pre-out signal output is another thing. I would guess so, but could be wrong.

Bottom line: I think what OP is trying to do is not supported by the low-tier -475 AVR. Needs to upgrade or find another solution IMHO.

“We need more heart in motion pictures. We're all expecting great things.”
A: Yamaha RX-V775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550.

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