Yamaha RX-V 75 Series owners thread - Page 52 - AVS Forum
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post #1531 of 1583 Old 08-13-2014, 09:44 AM
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^ Not sure which splitter would work best. One advantage of the dual HDMI output on the receiver is you can toggle each one on/off from the remote, in case you run into a situation like you describe. Sounds like the projector is leaving its HDMI input partly active when in standby mode, but maybe some splitters will deal with that.
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post #1532 of 1583 Old 08-13-2014, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Kirktsemaj99, do you know of a link to teach me about the different incarnations of YPAO? Their lit seems to be pretty tight lipped about it.

I don't know the details. The basic PEQ filters have been the same for ages, but the algorithms for calculating the optimum filters and averaging multiple measurements have likely been tweaked over the years.

Also the relatively new R.S.C. part is still a mystery to me. The Yamaha diagram shows that it reduces reflections, which suggests it's working in the time domain, but I've read nothing to confirm that. And they don't even say whether R.S.C. is still active if you copy a YPAO result to Manual and then tweak the EQ yourself.
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post #1533 of 1583 Old 08-13-2014, 11:05 AM
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It's a shame the whole A/V industry isn't more open and transparent about what's happening when they manipulate the sound, like they were prior to the 1990's or so. [I've been around for a long time and worked professionally selling this stuff .]

Now a company like Audyssey, when pressed for details at a news conference on what, specifically, makes their new system better, they can respond with "It's like 16x better!" and they get away with it.

As an analogy, if I tell you my left pocket wallet "A" holds 16x the amount of money as my right pocket wallet "B", do you know:

How much money is in wallet A?
How much money is in wallet B?
How much money is in wallet A+B combined?
If I'm carrying coins, bills, or a combination of both?
What currency I'm holding?
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post #1534 of 1583 Old 08-13-2014, 11:37 AM
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I'm surprised they still produce those detailed service manuals, which means they can't hide much about the physical design (although it's hard to find the latest SMs for free on the internet). But there's nothing comparable for the processing algorithms.
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post #1535 of 1583 Old 08-13-2014, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
Also the relatively new R.S.C. part is still a mystery to me.
It's just like RSC similar systems of the past, but now it's 16x more better.

http://download.yamaha.com/api/asset...asset_id=57580

I'm pulling your leg. I have no idea either, and it's because they don't want us to know.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #1536 of 1583 Old 08-13-2014, 12:47 PM
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Thanks in advance

...I've been wading through this thread, trying to find the answers to what I presume are quite newbie questions. Hopefully someone can help or point me in the right direction please?

I have: Yamaha RX-V675, Samsung UN40H6350 and Time Warner cable box. Some tidy Polk speakers too, if you're interested.

First issue: when watching films either via the TV apps (Netflix etc) or via the Time Warner box, the sound cuts out every fifteen to twenty seconds. How do I solve this please?

Secondly: when using Airplay (or Spotify Connect), it works fine for a while but after half an hour or so of use, I either get "Access Error" flashing up on the Yamaha, requiring a restart of the system, or the sound just drops regularly and I have to try and get it all working again.

Thirdly: whenever I turn on TV, cable and Yamaha - the Yamaha switches to AV4 and it takes a few tries to get it to stick to the correct input (HDMI 2 is where the TW box comes through).

Any solutions please? I believe 1) could be solved by running an audio cable from the TW box to receiver alongside HDMI - but how do I then set it up to get both picture and audio? 2) I suspect might be the rubbish Yamaha wireless adaptor I bought - could upgrade that? And 3) looks like it is an HDMI control issue, but I can't work out how to fix it.

Many thanks in advance.
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post #1537 of 1583 Old 08-14-2014, 03:02 AM
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Audio With Sub-Woofer?

Hello Everyone

I've just bought a 775 (last one in Wales, £349!) and have paired it with Monitor Audio Vector 5.1 set.
I'm just moving in, so don't have a 5.1 source and am playing the radio or mp3 through it.

The 775 seems to want to only use the front two speakers for music, which sounds rather thin.
There is the 7.1 decoder program, and that kicks in the rear and centre speakers, but not the sub-woofer.

Consequently, the sound has no bass and sounds very weak.

Is it possible to get the subwoofer working with audio - have I set something up wrongly?
YPAO run.

Zone 2 speakers sound great.

Since I listen to music & watch TV equally, would I be better replacing the front 2 Monitor Audios with proper hi-fi speakers, and then when I use 5.1 the amp will switch on the other 3 MA speakers and the sub? (And presumably cut everything below crossover frequency to the normal speakers.)

Thanks very much in advance
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post #1538 of 1583 Old 08-14-2014, 05:44 AM
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^ Make sure all speakers are set as SMALL, otherwise the sub won't be used for music, and I would try a crossover of 100Hz for those small satellite speakers.

Is the sub playing at roughly the same volume as the other speakers with the internal test tones? If not turn it up (turn up the knob on the back of the sub and make sure the crossover knob is at max).

If you can't hear anything from the sub, switch it to Always On instead of Auto On (some subs have a problem waking up automatically unless you play something very loud).
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post #1539 of 1583 Old 08-14-2014, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
^ Make sure all speakers are set as SMALL, otherwise the sub won't be used for music, and I would try a crossover of 100Hz for those small satellite speakers.

Is the sub playing at roughly the same volume as the other speakers with the internal test tones? If not turn it up (turn up the knob on the back of the sub and make sure the crossover knob is at max).

If you can't hear anything from the sub, switch it to Always On instead of Auto On (some subs have a problem waking up automatically unless you play something very loud).
What a clever dinosaur/monster you are!
That sounds VERY plausible, and I seem to remember it thinking the front ones were large.
I shall try that tonight!

Thank you (in advance)
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post #1540 of 1583 Old 08-14-2014, 09:11 AM
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Minor update to my HDMI output issues with the 475, Yamaha has sent me a new firmware update, 1.25 with Spotify support, to see if it will resolve my issue. Supposedly there are some video fixes in there as well. I will report back once I get a chance to test it.
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post #1541 of 1583 Old 08-14-2014, 03:35 PM
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Hi everyone!, i'm new here, and i need some help!

I just bought the yamaha rx-v775 as my first receiver, and after a long shipping time, i have it.
After a few days of testing, i can say that the sound is nice (i still don't fully know how to configure it), and the features are great.. But, there is something bothering me, i sit approximately 1 meter (3 feet approx) away from the receiver, and i can hear some noise coming from the inside of it. I already check the speakers, and no, the noise comes from the inside of the rx-v775!

When i turn on the receiver, the noise don't instantly show up, i must play something first, after a couple of minutes of music or movie, the noise appears. It's some kind of electric noise and won't go until i turn it off for a while.

What do you guys think, what could this be? Should i send it to rma? or is it something normal?

Thanks in advance!
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post #1542 of 1583 Old 08-15-2014, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspick View Post
Minor update to my HDMI output issues with the 475, Yamaha has sent me a new firmware update, 1.25 with Spotify support, to see if it will resolve my issue. Supposedly there are some video fixes in there as well. I will report back once I get a chance to test it.
Firmware update had no effect on the issue.
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post #1543 of 1583 Old 08-15-2014, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspick View Post
If I use Airplay, the onscreen display is better but still flickers regularly.
When using built-in airplay mine never flickers and pretty long hdmi cables work fine too. Projectors are finicky, but you get this from any tv. How long are those hdmi cables? I think the receiver is defective or broke. Lot of brands are having this problem. Hdmi failures new or used. Especially onkyo.

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post #1544 of 1583 Old 08-17-2014, 03:45 PM
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I'm still trying to figure out how I know what audio mode is playing when watching a blue-ray? For example, how do I know if I'm only getting dolby Digital, DTS or Dolby TrueHD? I don't see any LCD indication of such.

When watching a Blu-Ray, IMO, it sounds rather muddy (vocals only). I've turned on PureDirect and the audio was so much cleaner, however, I heard this is to be used for stereo audio only. So how can I tell what decoder it's using? I want to make sure I'm getting Dolby TrueHD when watching BD movies!

Also, any ideas on what I can do in regards to the muddy sounding vocals? It only appears to happen with movies. Music sounds clear to me.

Thanks!

Yamaha RX-V675 | Primus 363s fronts | Primus 163 rears | Primus 351 Center | Rythmik LV12R Sub
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post #1545 of 1583 Old 08-17-2014, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
I'm still trying to figure out how I know what audio mode is playing when watching a blue-ray? For example, how do I know if I'm only getting dolby Digital, DTS or Dolby TrueHD? I don't see any LCD indication of such.

When watching a Blu-Ray, IMO, it sounds rather muddy (vocals only). I've turned on PureDirect and the audio was so much cleaner, however, I heard this is to be used for stereo audio only. So how can I tell what decoder it's using? I want to make sure I'm getting Dolby TrueHD when watching BD movies!

Also, any ideas on what I can do in regards to the muddy sounding vocals? It only appears to happen with movies. Music sounds clear to me.

Thanks!
Info button on remote.
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post #1546 of 1583 Old 08-18-2014, 05:37 AM
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Thank you! I had looked through the manual and saw it listed the different decoders available but I couldn't find how to check to see which is working.

Is PureDirect solely for music or is it recommended for movies as well? What "mode" do you typically use for movie watching? Mine has been set to STRAIGHT this whole time.

Yamaha RX-V675 | Primus 363s fronts | Primus 163 rears | Primus 351 Center | Rythmik LV12R Sub
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post #1547 of 1583 Old 08-18-2014, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
Thank you! I had looked through the manual and saw it listed the different decoders available but I couldn't find how to check to see which is working.

Is PureDirect solely for music or is it recommended for movies as well? What "mode" do you typically use for movie watching? Mine has been set to STRAIGHT this whole time.
Pure Direct is for music. I generally use Straight or Standard for movies. Dont be afraid to try them all. Use whatever you like.
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post #1548 of 1583 Old 08-18-2014, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post

Also, any ideas on what I can do in regards to the muddy sounding vocals? It only appears to happen with movies. Music sounds clear to me.

Thanks!
Hey. Sounds like a center channel problem to me since music is only using the left, right, and sub. Have you run ypao? Are you running the peq? How does the speaker settings look like compared to the rest of your speakers? What center do you have and where do you have it placed? Do you have the positive and negative leads hooked up correctly? Pull the grill off and inspect the speaker as well. Let me know how it goes. Good luck.
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post #1549 of 1583 Old 08-18-2014, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
Also, any ideas on what I can do in regards to the muddy sounding vocals? It only appears to happen with movies. Music sounds clear to me.
My call: You have a dual post center channel [bi-amp/wireable] and the tweeter connection is loose or faulty. Diagnose by walking up to the speaker and place your ear to the tweeter. Is it tweeting just like the L and R speakers are? [sounds sort of like hiss all by itself]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #1550 of 1583 Old 08-19-2014, 08:15 AM
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Question Activating an HDMI-CEC device turns on TV, not amp; with amp on, switches to TV

Apologies if this was been covered, I don't have time to read 52 messages at the moment (yes, I'm lame).

Just got a RX-V775 last week. Have pretty much set it up well. Here's my dilemma.
  1. Plug a Chromecast into HDMI2.
  2. Set HDMI control to on for TV (Samsung UN40ES6150), plugged into HDMI1-OUT and AV4 optical in (ARC not supported on TV).
  3. Turn Amp, TV off. Chromecast is still on, plugged into separate power supply.
  4. Connect to Chromecast from an Android or iOS app.
  5. => Chromecast responds.
  6. => TV activates.
  7. => Amp does NOT turn ON. So ... no audio from the Chromecast is played through speakers.

Note: the "Straight Through" option in SEtup is greyed out with HDMI control on IIRC. HDMI control is set to AUTO (same results with it in ON).

Another annoying problem:
  1. Plug a Chromecast into HDMI2
  2. Set HDMI control to on for TV (Samsung UN40ES6150), plugged into HDMI1-OUT and AV4 optical in (ARC not supported on TV).
  3. Turn TV off. LEAVE RXV775 ON, set to BD/DVD (HDMI1). Chromecast is still on, plugged into separate power supply.
  4. Connect to Chromecast from an Android or iOS app.
  5. => Chromecast responds.
  6. => TV activates.
  7. => Amp switches from HDMI1 to HDMI2.
  8. => After a moment or two or three, the amp switches to AV4, presumably because the TV has come on. Now you would have to manually switch back to HDMI2 to view the Chromecast.

Anyone else encountered this? Found a workaround/solution? TIA....

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT215, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center.
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post #1551 of 1583 Old 08-19-2014, 05:28 PM
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I've determined that there's more going on here. When I try use case 1, the TV is switched to use its internal speaker. I hadn't noticed because it's been at 0 for months - I never use it. Then I turned on the amp, and the TV's SPDIF setting switches to external. Clearly the amp's HDMI-CEC is controlling the TV's audio setting. Great!

I'd still like the amp to come on, though.

Use case two, I now can't replicate. I'll try a few more times.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 08-19-2014 at 05:43 PM.
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post #1552 of 1583 Old 08-19-2014, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rimbaudelaire View Post
.. First issue: when watching films either via the TV apps (Netflix etc) or via the Time Warner box, the sound cuts out every fifteen to twenty seconds. How do I solve this please?
I've noticed this recently on Netflix. I switch from Dolby Digital to 2-channel stereo, and it clears up. I'm sometimes not sure that DD 5.1 is any better than a good 2.0 Dolby Surround audio track.

Probably not the TV or wireless. Pandora works fine. Haven't watched Amazon Prime since getting the new amp (775).

Last edited by ChromeJob; 08-21-2014 at 01:26 PM. Reason: clarification
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post #1553 of 1583 Old 08-20-2014, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnymacIII View Post
Hey. Sounds like a center channel problem to me since music is only using the left, right, and sub. Have you run ypao? Are you running the peq? How does the speaker settings look like compared to the rest of your speakers? What center do you have and where do you have it placed? Do you have the positive and negative leads hooked up correctly? Pull the grill off and inspect the speaker as well. Let me know how it goes. Good luck.
I will double check the polarity when I get home today. I'm running the Infinity PC351. I don't recall the dB level the center is at off the top of my head. I did run YPAO, set all speakers to SMALL. The Center is on the TV stand, right under the TV (the stand is where the TV is mounted above the top shelf, like a fake wall-mount).

Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
My call: You have a dual post center channel [bi-amp/wireable] and the tweeter connection is loose or faulty. Diagnose by walking up to the speaker and place your ear to the tweeter. Is it tweeting just like the L and R speakers are? [sounds sort of like hiss all by itself]
Do I do this tweeter test when something is playing, or should it be hissing when the receiver is on, but no audio is playing?


Thank you, guys!

Yamaha RX-V675 | Primus 363s fronts | Primus 163 rears | Primus 351 Center | Rythmik LV12R Sub
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post #1554 of 1583 Old 08-20-2014, 10:56 AM
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audio dropouts with DVR playback

I just bought a refurb RX-V475. When I watch recorded content on Dish, I hear a lot of audio dropouts. I don't here these dropouts with live programming or when watching blurays or Roku. I'm using good quality HDMI cables for all inputs.

Do you have any ideas what could be causing these dropouts? I want to rule out all other potential culprits before I place blame on the receiver.
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post #1555 of 1583 Old 08-20-2014, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
Do I do this tweeter test when something is playing, or should it be hissing when the receiver is on, but no audio is playing?
You do it while music is playing.

It is a good learning experience to discover in what way a tweeter contributes to the music, differently from the woofer(s), by doing this up close test, even if you weren't having a problem. [Reduce the volume a bit below average before doing the test so putting your ear up close won't blast out your hearing. Loud sounds are dangerous to hearing and never play music to the point of discomfort.]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


Last edited by m. zillch; 08-20-2014 at 01:06 PM.
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post #1556 of 1583 Old 08-21-2014, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post
I just bought a refurb RX-V475. When I watch recorded content on Dish, I hear a lot of audio dropouts. I don't here these dropouts with live programming or when watching blurays or Roku. I'm using good quality HDMI cables for all inputs.

Do you have any ideas what could be causing these dropouts? I want to rule out all other potential culprits before I place blame on the receiver.
Well never mind, I tried many different settings, but the dropouts were unacceptable, happening almost every minute of the shows we were watching. This refurb is going back.
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post #1557 of 1583 Old 08-21-2014, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post
Well never mind, I tried many different settings, but the dropouts were unacceptable, happening almost every minute of the shows we were watching. This refurb is going back.
If you haven't already packed up the 475, did you try switching around the HDMI cables to rule out a bad cable? Did you try switching the inputs around to see if it was a bad input? If you switch everything around and Dish is still the only dropout issue, your problem may reside in your Dish receiver. I would try all that before I would get another avr only to find out it was your Dish receiver.
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post #1558 of 1583 Old 08-21-2014, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
... Do I do this tweeter test when something is playing, or should it be hissing when the receiver is on, but no audio is playing?
You could also try it with the test tone coming from the amp. That way you don't risk Beethoven's Fifth Symphony ruining your ear drums.
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post #1559 of 1583 Old 08-22-2014, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnymacIII View Post
If you haven't already packed up the 475, did you try switching around the HDMI cables to rule out a bad cable? Did you try switching the inputs around to see if it was a bad input? If you switch everything around and Dish is still the only dropout issue, your problem may reside in your Dish receiver. I would try all that before I would get another avr only to find out it was your Dish receiver.
I'll try that, but I'm concerned it's an issue between the 475 and Dish because the dropouts only happen when watching recorded Dish programs. I haven't heard any dropouts watching live shows, and unfortunately, we DVR and watch most of our programs.

But I do have extra HDMI cables, so I'll see if it's a bad cable. Thanks.
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post #1560 of 1583 Old 08-22-2014, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post
I just bought a refurb RX-V475. When I watch recorded content on Dish, I hear a lot of audio dropouts. I don't here these dropouts with live programming or when watching blurays or Roku. I'm using good quality HDMI cables for all inputs. Do you have any ideas what could be causing these dropouts? I want to rule out all other potential culprits before I place blame on the receiver.
I watch recorded shows with directv. Recently some playback broke up etc. I called directv.
They came out and checked my whole system. They swapped out my dvr. Problem went away. Call dish network.
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Yamaha Rx V775wa 7 2 Channel Network Av Receiver , Yamaha Rx V575 7 1 Channel Network Av Receiver , Yamaha Rx V675 7 2 Channel Network Av Receiver , Yamaha Rx V475 5 1 Channel Network Av Receiver , Yamaha Rx V375 5 1 Channel Av Receiver
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