Yamaha RX-V 75 Series owners thread - Page 53 - AVS Forum
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post #1561 of 1580 Old 08-22-2014, 09:51 AM
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The good thing about glitches in DVR playback is you can hit rewind and replay the troubled section over again. If it repeats itself exactly in the same spot then you know the devices downstream probably aren't at fault and there's most likely a problem with that specific recorded TV show in that particular spot.


If you re-record another airing of the same TV show episode, a repeat broadcast, and the glitch is still there at the same spot, that tells you it is on the broadcaster's end and there's nothing you can do at all.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #1562 of 1580 Old 08-22-2014, 03:44 PM
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Hi all, I have a Yamaha rx-v675 receiver and i have my chromecast powered by the front usb port in the receiver. The problem with this set up is that the chromecast is powered even when the receiver is in standby mode. Is there a way I can shut down the chromecast power from the usb port when I turn my receiver off and put it to standby mode?
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post #1563 of 1580 Old 08-22-2014, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by acousticdelight View Post
Hi all, I have a Yamaha rx-v675 receiver and i have my chromecast powered by the front usb port in the receiver. The problem with this set up is that the chromecast is powered even when the receiver is in standby mode. Is there a way I can shut down the chromecast power from the usb port when I turn my receiver off and put it to standby mode?

Probably not for the front USB port, but you can for the rear one (the one labelled DC OUT). Look in the Setup Menu for DC OUT.
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post #1564 of 1580 Old 08-23-2014, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by johnnymacIII View Post
If you haven't already packed up the 475, did you try switching around the HDMI cables to rule out a bad cable? Did you try switching the inputs around to see if it was a bad input? If you switch everything around and Dish is still the only dropout issue, your problem may reside in your Dish receiver. I would try all that before I would get another avr only to find out it was your Dish receiver.
Well I got the dropouts to go away. I had to use a digital optical cable for the sound on Dish. For some reason, the audio didn't work right using HDMI between Dish and the 475. It's funny because HDMI audio is fine with the blu-ray player and Roku.

Well, kinda fine with the Roku. No dropouts, but I get PCM only instead of DD+. Gonna do some research on that soon.

Bottom line is that I may end up keeping the 475 after all, so thanks for the tip!
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post #1565 of 1580 Old 08-23-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
The good thing about glitches in DVR playback is you can hit rewind and replay the troubled section over again. If it repeats itself exactly in the same spot then you know the devices downstream probably aren't at fault and there's most likely a problem with that specific recorded TV show in that particular spot.


If you re-record another airing of the same TV show episode, a repeat broadcast, and the glitch is still there at the same spot, that tells you it is on the broadcaster's end and there's nothing you can do at all.
I rewound many times after the glitches, and the dropouts were never there the next time. Anyway, using a digital optical cable instead of HDMI for audio took care of it.
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post #1566 of 1580 Old 08-24-2014, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by acousticdelight View Post
Hi all, I have a Yamaha rx-v675 receiver and i have my chromecast powered by the front usb port in the receiver. The problem with this set up is that the chromecast is powered even when the receiver is in standby mode. Is there a way I can shut down the chromecast power from the usb port when I turn my receiver off and put it to standby mode?
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Probably not for the front USB port, but you can for the rear one (the one labelled DC OUT). Look in the Setup Menu for DC OUT.
The rear port on my 775 only puts out 0.5A, which is sufficient for the Yamaha Bluetooth Adapter, but NOT for a Chromecast (requires about 1.0A - 1.5A IIRC). If the amp had switched power on the back like my 663, it could be powered that way with the Chromecast's AC adapter.

FWIW I moved my Chromecast from the TV (where it was powered by the TV, when it was on) to the RX-V775 because I noticed that the Chromecast identified itself as an HDMI-CEC device. Sure enough, when an app connects to the Chromecast e.g. Photos or screen-casting (Beta) on Android, Google Play Music or Netflix or HBO Go on Android & iOS, the input switched. Now plugged into HDMI2 of my 775, the Chromecast will switch the Standby Through input to HDMI2, and turn the TV on. So it makes sense to leave the Chromecast on. I think the device can handle it. And for only $35, if it burns out in a year or two, just get another, newer version of the Chromecast.

(Since I have Network Standby set to ON so that I can switch the amp on from the Android/iOS remote app, the amp is in standby mode anyway with or without Standby Through.)

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Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post
Well I got the dropouts to go away. I had to use a digital optical cable for the sound on Dish. For some reason, the audio didn't work right using HDMI between Dish and the 475. It's funny because HDMI audio is fine with the blu-ray player and Roku.

Well, kinda fine with the Roku. No dropouts, but I get PCM only instead of DD+. Gonna do some research on that soon.

Bottom line is that I may end up keeping the 475 after all, so thanks for the tip!
I have the reverse issue. With optical audio out from my TV, Netflix (and I presume Amazon Prime) are submitting DD+ 5.1, but the amp just identifies it as Dolby Digital, with intermittent dropouts (no more than a second, but sometimes several occurrences per minute). With Netflix running on a Chromecast in HDMI2, the amp identifies the decoder as Dolby Digital+. I'm beginning to wonder if this is the problem. I'd be interested in others' observations after toggling the INFO button while seeing audio dropout problems. Toggle INFO until you see the Decoder display. I seem to have no issues when PCM is displayed.

Others online complain about the Samsung TVs, or the Netflix App, but since people in this thread are seeing the issue with multiple devices, I think the x75 amps have an issue.

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT215, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center.
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post #1567 of 1580 Old 08-24-2014, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Birddoggin View Post

Well I got the dropouts to go away. I had to use a digital optical cable for the sound on Dish. For some reason, the audio didn't work right using HDMI between Dish and the 475. It's funny because HDMI audio is fine with the blu-ray player and Roku.

Well, kinda fine with the Roku. No dropouts, but I get PCM only instead of DD+. Gonna do some research on that soon.

Bottom line is that I may end up keeping the 475 after all, so thanks for the tip!
No problem. I remember having the same problem with Directv. It was my sat receiver. I would call Dish and see if they can replace your reciever for you for free.

Try setting your Roku to bitstream if it has that setting. It also may be transcoding the audio so you may want to play with those settings as well.
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post #1568 of 1580 Old 08-26-2014, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
Another question; how do I go about figuring out the crossover frequency? Does Yamaha have anything in their RCS that will help or do I go based on my speakers white papers?
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
See the answer that I provided for your identical question in the Rhythmik thread.
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Got it. Thanks! I actually already have the receiver, it's just not hooked up yet. I'll look at the manual today.

I'm just curious, why does it matter that you run YPAO then manually configure it rather than just configure and blanace with an SPL? Can you not use EQ settings if you do it manually?

Thanks again!


can you guys provide the url.. of the post which you are talking about..related to checking crossover for the entire system

i have a yamaha rx-v575.. and all I see in the configuration is.. it just says crossover at one place..it means that the value it shows there after YPAO setup is set to all the speakers in the system ? how can I check the individual crossover frequencies... I am not sue how useful the feature test tone is ... again from menu option... as the sound from each speaker is like for 2-3 seconds only and that too the sound is just like when you don't have any transmission and the that sound seems useless to catch the frequency of the speaker using a spl meter... or I am I wrong ?

if someone knows how to determine or set individual crossover frequencies for rx-v575... please let me know.... I am guessing it is not possible...

also after ypao .. what other values in the system is recommended to be bumped ? trim or tone volumes....or sound levels from the main menu..


appreciate your response..

Thanks


PS: I am trying to calibrate PSA sub woofer .. all these days.. almost 8-9 months since I had this receiver... I have set the values on different menus and sub menus is just by my hearing levels and how I felt good about the sound....and never liked the ypao setup... but recebtly I changed home.. and right now using ypao setup.. and it seems ok... but I just want to get more bass.. please let me know your recommendations.. I can provide details about the room or other speakers in my setup.. Thanks

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post #1569 of 1580 Old 08-26-2014, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyborg_Optoma View Post
can you guys provide the url.. of the post which you are talking about..related to checking crossover for the entire system

i have a yamaha rx-v575.. and all I see in the configuration is.. it just says crossover at one place..it means that the value it shows there after YPAO setup is set to all the speakers in the system ? how can I check the individual crossover frequencies... I am not sue how useful the feature test tone is ... again from menu option... as the sound from each speaker is like for 2-3 seconds only and that too the sound is just like when you don't have any transmission and the that sound seems useless to catch the frequency of the speaker using a spl meter... or I am I wrong ?

if someone knows how to determine or set individual crossover frequencies for rx-v575... please let me know.... I am guessing it is not possible...

also after ypao .. what other values in the system is recommended to be bumped ? trim or tone volumes....or sound levels from the main menu..


appreciate your response..

Thanks


PS: I am trying to calibrate PSA sub woofer .. all these days.. almost 8-9 months since I had this receiver... I have set the values on different menus and sub menus is just by my hearing levels and how I felt good about the sound....and never liked the ypao setup... but recebtly I changed home.. and right now using ypao setup.. and it seems ok... but I just want to get more bass.. please let me know your recommendations.. I can provide details about the room or other speakers in my setup.. Thanks
The 575 does not allow you to set the individual crossover for each speaker. It only allows for an entire setup crossover. You will have to cater to your weakest link in the chain.

To use the test tone feature to set your spl, you need to turn on test tones and then go into the menu option where you would check your speaker levels. Now you can hear pink noise for each individual speaker for as long as you need to.

After I run YPAO; I change all my speakers to small, bump the crossover frequency for all speakers up to 80hz, and check the spl of all speakers(including the subwoofer) to make sure that the spl is balanced across all speakers. That is all I do.
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post #1570 of 1580 Old 08-26-2014, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnymacIII View Post
The 575 does not allow you to set the individual crossover for each speaker. It only allows for an entire setup crossover. You will have to cater to your weakest link in the chain.

To use the test tone feature to set your spl, you need to turn on test tones and then go into the menu option where you would check your speaker levels. Now you can hear pink noise for each individual speaker for as long as you need to.

After I run YPAO; I change all my speakers to small, bump the crossover frequency for all speakers up to 80hz, and check the spl of all speakers(including the subwoofer) to make sure that the spl is balanced across all speakers. That is all I do.

can you please explain to me what you mean by this...

To use the test tone feature to set your spl, you need to turn on test tones and then go into the menu option where you would check your speaker levels. Now you can hear pink noise for each individual speaker for as long as you need to.


enable the test tone feature ?



test tone is already there in menu...setup>speaker configuration>test tone is right under the equalizer.. when I just get into the Test Tone menu item.. it just has on and off toggle.. on plays the noise from the speakers.. and off means.. I can get out of the test tone menu.... how do we increase the delay in the noise to play for say as long as we want from each speaker... appreciate your help and input.

Thanks
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post #1571 of 1580 Old 08-26-2014, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyborg_Optoma View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnymacIII View Post
The 575 does not allow you to set the individual crossover for each speaker. It only allows for an entire setup crossover. You will have to cater to your weakest link in the chain.

To use the test tone feature to set your spl, you need to turn on test tones and then go into the menu option where you would check your speaker levels. Now you can hear pink noise for each individual speaker for as long as you need to.

After I run YPAO; I change all my speakers to small, bump the crossover frequency for all speakers up to 80hz, and check the spl of all speakers(including the subwoofer) to make sure that the spl is balanced across all speakers. That is all I do.

can you please explain to me what you mean by this...

To use the test tone feature to set your spl, you need to turn on test tones and then go into the menu option where you would check your speaker levels. Now you can hear pink noise for each individual speaker for as long as you need to.


enable the test tone feature ?



test tone is already there in menu...setup>speaker configuration>test tone is right under the equalizer.. when I just get into the Test Tone menu item.. it just has on and off toggle.. on plays the noise from the speakers.. and off means.. I can get out of the test tone menu.... how do we increase the delay in the noise to play for say as long as we want from each speaker... appreciate your help and input.

Thanks
Press setup on remote. Inside the speaker setup menu click on Test Tone. Turn Test Tone on. Exit Test Tone. Click on Level. Pink noise will now be played to each individual speaker that you highlight.
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post #1572 of 1580 Old 08-27-2014, 12:20 AM
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Press setup on remote. Inside the speaker setup menu click on Test Tone. Turn Test Tone on. Exit Test Tone. Click on Level. Pink noise will now be played to each individual speaker that you highlight.


wow you are awesome.. Thanks for the information...

one more thing.. is this pink noise enough for the spl meter to get the crossover frequency that a particular speaker is letting out.. I believe it is.. I just have to increase the volume say at -40 db or -30 db so the spl meter can get a value.. and do the same thing for all speakers.. that is set volume at -40 db or -30 db..
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post #1573 of 1580 Old 08-27-2014, 01:03 AM
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wow you are awesome.. Thanks for the information...

one more thing.. is this pink noise enough for the spl meter to get the crossover frequency that a particular speaker is letting out.. I believe it is.. I just have to increase the volume say at -40 db or -30 db so the spl meter can get a value.. and do the same thing for all speakers.. that is set volume at -40 db or -30 db..
No problem.

YPAO is generally good at setting SPL with the exception of the subwoofer (at least with my experience). I generally set my SPL to 75 db across the board and make a note at what DB my relative volume is set to. That way I can know how far below reference volume I am playing. To do this you might turn the volume up on your receiver to read 0db and then turn up or down the level for each individual speaker to get a 75 db SPL reading on the meter. That way when you are playing a movie at -20db you will know you are playing 20db below reference volume.

You run YPAO to automatically set your crossover and you make adjustments as you see fit (80hz to 120hz is generally the number to aim for). If you are unhappy with what YPAO is doing, I would look into getting Room EQ Wizard with a UMIK-1 so you can accurately set your crossover and SPLs. You will be able to see quite a bit from there. Better yet, get a miniDSP nanoAVR 8x8 and bypass the Yamaha speaker management system altogether. Before you give up on YPAO; make sure that you are putting the YPAO mic level (preferably on a tripod), at ear height, your speakers are setup at the recommended positions, and there is no noise in the room (I even leave the room).

Good luck.
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post #1574 of 1580 Old 08-27-2014, 09:54 AM
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In dozens of Yamaha manuals the test tone noise is referred to as "like pink noise", key word: like. This may be because it is, for instance, bandwidth limited pink noise, or perhaps spectrally skewed for what works best for setting volume levels by ear. [The human ear is much more sensitive to volume changes around 3.5 kHz than it is elsewhere, so they theoretically may boost that region, for example].

https://www.google.com/search?q=yama...-US:IE-Address

If it were truly just pink noise then why do they throw the word "like" in front of it?

It's probably quite suitable for setting levels, but there are test discs and downloadable files of true pink noise and I would feel safer using those for any full range EQ purposes. Just sayin'.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


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post #1575 of 1580 Old 08-27-2014, 01:35 PM
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I just hooked up my Rx v775. My center speaker is set on the lower shelf pointed slightly up, however, because the projector screen is 106", I am not getting the voices to center (they still seem to come from below the screen). I thought there was a way to center the sound of the center channel but I can't find it. Does anyone know how to do this? Oops - sorry, I have the 777 receiver.

shortspark

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post #1576 of 1580 Old 08-27-2014, 02:00 PM
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There's only one sure fire way to make the center of the soundstage coincident with the center image and that's to use the exact same technique used in professional movie theaters [which is after all what our home theaters are attempting to mimic but at a smaller scale]: place all three speakers in a straight line behind the center of the acoustically "transparent" screen:

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


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post #1577 of 1580 Old 08-27-2014, 02:06 PM
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What's that? Don't own an acoustically transparent screen or for that matter even a projector? Then you will have to compromise in some way and how you do that will be up to you.
Keep in mind millions if not billions were successfully entertained by a medium called stereo, still in wide distribution to this day, and although there is almost always a center image in nearly all a stereo songs, often the vocals for example, very few people actually have a dedicated speaker in the center to reproduce that part. They use what is sometimes called a "phantom center" which means the imaging of their front two speakers will hopefully create the illusion of a center image. Your electronics allow for this mode as well.


Just because everyone you know says you have to have a center, doesn't mean it's true. They often create more problems than they solve, and their "necessity" is questionable if your theater layout is primarily for entertaining an audience of only one or two viewers wide.


From your manual:


"If the function "4. CENTER SPEAKER" in the SET MENU


mode is set in the "PHNTM (phantom)" position, in step


10, the sound output level of the center speaker cannot be


adjusted. This is because in this mode, the center sound


is automatically output from the left and right main


speakers."

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..


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post #1578 of 1580 Old 08-27-2014, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnymacIII View Post
No problem.

YPAO is generally good at setting SPL with the exception of the subwoofer (at least with my experience). I generally set my SPL to 75 db across the board and make a note at what DB my relative volume is set to. That way I can know how far below reference volume I am playing. To do this you might turn the volume up on your receiver to read 0db and then turn up or down the level for each individual speaker to get a 75 db SPL reading on the meter. That way when you are playing a movie at -20db you will know you are playing 20db below reference volume.

You run YPAO to automatically set your crossover and you make adjustments as you see fit (80hz to 120hz is generally the number to aim for). If you are unhappy with what YPAO is doing, I would look into getting Room EQ Wizard with a UMIK-1 so you can accurately set your crossover and SPLs. You will be able to see quite a bit from there. Better yet, get a miniDSP nanoAVR 8x8 and bypass the Yamaha speaker management system altogether. Before you give up on YPAO; make sure that you are putting the YPAO mic level (preferably on a tripod), at ear height, your speakers are setup at the recommended positions, and there is no noise in the room (I even leave the room).

Good luck.


Thanks again.. appreciate your input .. will try out your suggestions.
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post #1579 of 1580 Old Yesterday, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by milacqua View Post
I just hooked up my Rx v775. My center speaker is set on the lower shelf pointed slightly up, however, because the projector screen is 106", I am not getting the voices to center (they still seem to come from below the screen). I thought there was a way to center the sound of the center channel but I can't find it. Does anyone know how to do this? Oops - sorry, I have the 777 receiver.
I believe the manual details how you can set "center height" using front presence speakers. Is that an option?

In my 775 manual, it's referred to as "dialogue lift" or "height balance" (7ch Stereo).

You could also ... perhaps ... send the Center pre-out audio to the TV separately. Not sure if this would be satisfactory. Several years ago, I had Bose 201 Series II speakers next to the TV as dual center channel speakers, but also had the TV playing center channel quietly (using a pre-out), which helped center the, um, center channel content. You couldn't hear it until I muted the TV, and the absence was noticeable.

Yet another option: use Dolby PLIIx Music mode, and set center width from default 3, to 2. What this does: send center channel content to left, center and right, creating a wider "phantom" center channel using the side speakers. I use the Music mode for films a lot as it makes the Center channel sound more like a full theater setup. Reducing the width from 3 to 2 narrows the default Music phantom Center to more in the center without being quite a narrow and localized as a dedicated center speaker.

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT215, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center.

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post #1580 of 1580 Old Yesterday, 09:38 PM
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Network lost infrequently, requiring disconnection or turning off network standby

It's continued to happen: Pandora has suddenly said "not connected." Cycling power on the amp does nothing -- I have Network Standby enabled. The amp Info - Network display indicates DHCP has been lost and the amp has the usual 169.x.x.x address. Tonight I remedied this by unplugging the CAT5 Ethernet from the router (acting as a wireless bridge, or repeater) momentarily. On reconnecting the amp immediately started streaming Pandora.

Anyone else noticed this with their x75 network connection?

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT215, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center.
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Yamaha Rx V775wa 7 2 Channel Network Av Receiver , Yamaha Rx V575 7 1 Channel Network Av Receiver , Yamaha Rx V675 7 2 Channel Network Av Receiver , Yamaha Rx V475 5 1 Channel Network Av Receiver , Yamaha Rx V375 5 1 Channel Av Receiver
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