Yamaha RX-V 75 Series owners thread - Page 78 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2311 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 07:02 AM
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Yeah, I hooked up component video from my old DVD player, so I could zoom in on the non-16:9 enhanced disc 2 of the Star Wars 2005 set (old LaserDisc master of 1981 release version). Zoomed in with the DVD player, it looks rather fugly on my 1920x1080 LED TV. Tolerable, but....

For some reason the component video now doesn't show upon the TV, one of these days I'll troubleshoot that. I probably crossed wires when I was testing th LR pre-out and AV OUT for last week's Pure Direct Family Feud discussion.

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT210, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
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post #2312 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 10:42 AM
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Thanks for all of the replies and helpful comments. I definitely liked the 675 after playing around with it and it will work for me when I upgrade my projector. However, I'm going to sell the 675 to a friend and shop for a different receiver.
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post #2313 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 11:19 AM
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I have a purely academic question (and by that, I mean I have no desire to actually try this on my audio setup)...

When running through speaker phase checks on a calibration disc or the dts-hd master audio sound check on Lionsgate BD movies, phase is checked by comparing one speaker to another and so on, so forth. So, is it right to conclude that phase is a relative term between 2 speakers and not an absolute?

In other words, if all the speakers on the avr were wired backwards, would the system still pass all phase checks and sound normal?

Last edited by PlasmaPZ80U; 03-18-2015 at 11:20 AM.
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post #2314 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 01:00 PM
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I have a baffling audio issue with the 475 model. The first time this happened a week ago I was convinced the problem was originating from the separate Sony 5 disc CD carousel, but last night when the problem persisted with another disk, upon pause, I realized the fluctuating audio was originating from the AV receiver. The audio signal was receiving sporadically in and out, mostly out. I changed movie settings to attempt to resolve. Last time this happened, I remade the last DVD thinking that was the cause. The only thing that's changed is I cleaned the DVD carousel of dust. This doesn't happen with any other connected devices during short or long-term listening. I thought maybe the HDMI cord, but that doesn't compute either. Any ideas or suggestions to test or repair? static?
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post #2315 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 01:15 PM
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There are two kinds of phase.
Comparing the outward motion of the speaker, say the woofer cone, between the L and R speakers is called relative phase. It matters and they need to be in phase for proper sound.
Comparing the motion of the woofers to the microphone diaphragm which recorded the music, that's called absolute phase, aka polarity. Except for circumstances where you might be mixing one brand/model of amp on you front speakers than you use on your center (or rear) speakers, then polarity doesn't audibly matter, unless you are part of that group of people who perpetually think whatever is most complex is always audibly significant.


http://www.audiocheck.net/audiotests_polaritycheck.php


Quote:
In other words, if all the speakers on the avr were wired backwards, would the system still pass all phase checks and sound normal?

That's an excellent question. I suspect it will report an error and it is a good engineering practice anyways to be consistent with the same positive polarity, so as one adds or deletes speakers, amps, etc. to their system, down the road, everything stays in the same relative phase.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

Last edited by m. zillch; 03-18-2015 at 01:19 PM.
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post #2316 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomreidy View Post
I have a baffling audio issue with the 475 model. The first time this happened a week ago I was convinced the problem was originating from the separate Sony 5 disc CD carousel, but last night when the problem persisted with another disk, upon pause, I realized the fluctuating audio was originating from the AV receiver. The audio signal was receiving sporadically in and out, mostly out. I changed movie settings to attempt to resolve. Last time this happened, I remade the last DVD thinking that was the cause. The only thing that's changed is I cleaned the DVD carousel of dust. This doesn't happen with any other connected devices during short or long-term listening. I thought maybe the HDMI cord, but that doesn't compute either. Any ideas or suggestions to test or repair? static?
I would try with a single media, not something home-baked but manufactured. E.g. a known good CD in each player, a known good DVD in the DVD player.

Are the indicators on the display blinking when this happens? as if the AVR isn't receiving a signal?[1] What decoder are you using on the 475? Does the problem persist if you switch to STRAIGHT or PURE DIRECT?

[1] I see this when my Samsung TV is sending dodgy DD via SPDIF, as if it's interrupting the PCM stream.

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT210, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
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post #2317 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
There are two kinds of phase.
Comparing the outward motion of the speaker, say the woofer cone, between the L and R speakers is called relative phase. It matters and they need to be in phase for proper sound.
Comparing the motion of the woofers to the microphone diaphragm which recorded the music, that's called absolute phase, aka polarity. Except for circumstances where you might be mixing one brand/model of amp on you front speakers than you use on your center (or rear) speakers, then polarity doesn't audibly matter, unless you are part of that group of people who perpetually think whatever is most complex is always audibly significant.


http://www.audiocheck.net/audiotests_polaritycheck.php


Quote:
In other words, if all the speakers on the avr were wired backwards, would the system still pass all phase checks and sound normal?

That's an excellent question. I suspect it will report an error and it is a good engineering practice anyways to be consistent with the same positive polarity, so as one adds or deletes speakers, amps, etc. to their system, down the road, everything stays in the same relative phase.
Interesting
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post #2318 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
I would try with a single media, not something home-baked but manufactured. E.g. a known good CD in each player, a known good DVD in the DVD player.

Are the indicators on the display blinking when this happens? as if the AVR isn't receiving a signal?[1] What decoder are you using on the 475? Does the problem persist if you switch to STRAIGHT or PURE DIRECT?

[1] I see this when my Samsung TV is sending dodgy DD via SPDIF, as if it's interrupting the PCM stream.
Will try with using more professional media, but it would be good to start with indicators as you suggest. Yes, the interrupts directly coincide with 475 blinking signal lights when audio is lost playing the DVD. when you say "sending dodgy DD via SPDIF… PCM stream," are you referring to the disk recording itself as an audio issue, or are you suggesting the receiver setting, as your terms are a bit over my head?

I typically use "5 channel stereo" output under music for most listening as all of my movies have been recorded in superior hi-fi such as 264. I did attempt to switch over to movie mode "straight," typically what I use for movies without soundtracks, and it did repair the problem temporarily. But signal interruption resurrected some time later, and flip-flopping again did not resolve. it did evaporate some time later, and it's more a nuisance than anything, so I'd like to solve.
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post #2319 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Comparing the motion of the woofers to the microphone diaphragm which recorded the music, that's called absolute phase, aka polarity.
Minor point of clarification. I didn't mean to imply only electro-acoustical transducers* have polarity. In audio, any device which has both an input and an output has the potential to flip the polarity as it passes through the device, aka "inverting the polarity", so EQs, AVRs, powered subwoofers, tape recorders, etc. also have a polarity. [Unless specified otherwise, one assumes, or hopes, that it is normal, aka "non-inverting"]


To the human ear it usually doesn't matter, unless two or more devices with alternate polarity are used together and mixed: this is for example why both L and R speakers, or say both subwoofers, need to be in the same phase so when their sound waves collide in the air they amplify each other rather than cancel each other out.


*a transducer is a device which takes one form of energy and transforms it into another. Electro-acoustical ones move energy between the electrical domain, a voltage, and the acoustical domain, a sound wave in the air. Microphones and speakers are the two main ones of these.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #2320 of 2333 Old 03-18-2015, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomreidy View Post
Will try with using more professional media, but it would be good to start with indicators as you suggest. Yes, the interrupts directly coincide with 475 blinking signal lights when audio is lost playing the DVD. when you say "sending dodgy DD via SPDIF… PCM stream," are you referring to the disk recording itself as an audio issue, or are you suggesting the receiver setting, as your terms are a bit over my head?

I typically use "5 channel stereo" output under music for most listening as all of my movies have been recorded in superior hi-fi such as 264. I did attempt to switch over to movie mode "straight," typically what I use for movies without soundtracks, and it did repair the problem temporarily. But signal interruption resurrected some time later, and flip-flopping again did not resolve. it did evaporate some time later, and it's more a nuisance than anything, so I'd like to solve.
The indication I have, momentarily interrupted audio with an associated flicker of the L C R SL SR SW channel indicators, suggests that my Samsung TV is literally interrupting the PCM audio stream, OR the receiver is having trouble with the DD stream the TV is sending. The problem may lie in Samsung's faulty conversion of Dolby Digital+ streams from Netflix, Amazon Video, before streaming to the AVR via SPDIF (optical or HDMI-ARC).

In this case, I think it's probably an issue with the Samsung TV, as many others are reporting similar issues from Samsung TVs.

Your case is more puzzling. It's occurring with a DVD player via HDMI (correct?), and a CD carousel (connected how?). Why you should see this on two separate inputs.... Really curious.

I would test with a CD -- it can play in both devices -- that the problem can exhibit with. Then take Cinema DSP and other treatments out of the picture, I'd put it (or keep it) in STRAIGHT for a while.

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT210, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
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post #2321 of 2333 Old 03-23-2015, 04:44 PM
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Widen front sound field

Due to having to move some furniture around (wife's idea) i may have to position my two front towers closer together, or approx. 5-6ft. apart. They are now about 8ft. apart. I realize that by placing them closer together that i would be narrowing the front soundstage somewhat.


Since i have only had the 675 for a little over a week, i am not yet familiar with all it's features. On my old Pioneer, there was a setting that would seem to widen the front soundstage. Is there a setting on the 675 that would accomplish this and help widen things out somewhat with the towers being so close together? I don't want to use what i call "fake surround" and would like for it to sound as natural as possible.


Thanks
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post #2322 of 2333 Old 03-23-2015, 05:33 PM
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It depends on how you personally define "fake". In strict 2 ch, straight playback, there is nothing you can do, however if you play a 2ch source signal through Dolby Pro Logic II(x) [and NEO6] and change between the different sub settings of "Movie", "Music", and "Game" there will be alterations to the perceived sound stage width, IIRC even if you were to have nothing other than two front speakers hooked up [although the system needs to think you have rear speakers connected, even if you don't, before it will let you engage this extra stuff]. "Music" has sub settings of "panorama", "dimension", and "center width" you might want to fiddle with for the sound you want.

"Dolby Center Width lets you adjust the balance of the main vocals in the center and front channels for more natural sound.
Dolby Panorama creates a seamless, wraparound surround effect.
Dolby Dimension lets you adjust for a deeper or shallower surround soundfield to fit your listening environment"

http://www.dolby.com/us/en/technolog...logic-iix.html

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

Last edited by m. zillch; 03-23-2015 at 05:40 PM.
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post #2323 of 2333 Old 03-23-2015, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
It depends on how you personally define "fake". In strict 2 ch, straight playback, there is nothing you can do, however if you play a 2ch source signal through Dolby Pro Logic II(x) [and NEO6] and change between the different sub settings of "Movie", "Music", and "Game" there will be alterations to the perceived sound stage width, IIRC even if you were to have nothing other than two front speakers hooked up [although the system needs to think you have rear speakers connected, even if you don't, before it will let you engage this extra stuff]. "Music" has sub settings of "panorama", "dimension", and "center width" you might want to fiddle with for the sound you want.

"Dolby Center Width lets you adjust the balance of the main vocals in the center and front channels for more natural sound.
Dolby Panorama creates a seamless, wraparound surround effect.
Dolby Dimension lets you adjust for a deeper or shallower surround soundfield to fit your listening environment"

http://www.dolby.com/us/en/technolog...logic-iix.html
m. zillch, thanks for the very good info. I believe this is exactly what i was looking for.
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post #2324 of 2333 Old 03-25-2015, 07:32 AM
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Yamaha RX-V 75 Series owners thread

I use Dolby PL IIx Music because unlike Movie, it shares center channel info with the mains for a wider sounding center. Default is 3, I use 2. I believe the other settings effect/utilize the surrounds (remember, Dolby PL IIx is surround decoding from 2.0 content). Panorama MIGHT work for you, and you could set dimension +3 to deemphasize the surrounds for non-movie [darn spell-check] content. (p 51, 87 of your manual)

You'd could fiddle with the CINEMA DSP treatments, but these might be overkill for what you're asking. It WILL work without surrounds (p 48 of your manual).

Can you install smaller front presence speakers? (p 15-16 of your manual)

[edited for correction]

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT210, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 03-25-2015 at 07:10 PM.
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post #2325 of 2333 Old 03-25-2015, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
I use Dolby PL IIx Music because unlike Movie, it shares center channel info with the mains for a wider sounding center. Default is 3, I use 2. I believe the other settings effect/utilize the surrounds (remember, Dolby PL IIx is surround decoding from 2.0 content). Panorama MIGHT work for you, and you could set dimension +3 to deemphasize the surrounds for non-governmental content. (p 51, 87 of your manual)

You'd could fiddle with the CINEMA DSP treatments, but these might be overkill for what you're asking. It WILL work without surrounds (p 48 of your manual).

Can you install smaller front presence speakers? (p 15-16 of your manual)

[edited for correction]
Thanks ChromeJob
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post #2326 of 2333 Old 03-25-2015, 07:09 PM
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RESOLVED iPod to USB: [Connected] ... No Device

Quote:
Last week I was able to play music from my iOS devices (iPod Touch 5gen, iPad Mini 2) via USB, listen on the amp, control with the remote basic functions buttons. This morning, connecting both devices, after the initial CONNECTED annunciation, the display and the on-screen display indicate "No device." No firmware update to the RX-v775 has been downloaded.
  • Tried different cables, same results.
  • Tried both iOS devices (iOS 8.2), same result.
  • Tried iPod Nano 3gen (OS of olde), same result failed at first, worked later on.
  • Works A-OK with a USB flash drive with MP3 and WAV files on it (interface browses folders)!

Has anyone else had issues connecting iOS devices to the front USB connection? If so, what did you try to remedy it? TIA....
Resolved. Seems the panacea "Turn the unit off and on again" does very little if you have Network Standby ON. Set Network Standby OFF, cycled the unit, and it immediately started reading an iOS 8.2 device. (sigh)

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT210, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 03-27-2015 at 10:03 AM. Reason: RESOLVED
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post #2327 of 2333 Old 03-26-2015, 04:32 PM
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I updated the firmware on my RX-V575 to version 1.26. Now when I try to switch to a device that's connected via HDMI, the screen will briefly show the source, then switch to a black screen. The audio still works, but there is no picture. Has anyone else had issues with this firmware version? Is there a way to rollback to a previous version?
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post #2328 of 2333 Old 03-27-2015, 11:44 AM
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I updated the firmware on my RX-V575 to version 1.26. Now when I try to switch to a device that's connected via HDMI, the screen will briefly show the source, then switch to a black screen. The audio still works, but there is no picture. Has anyone else had issues with this firmware version? Is there a way to rollback to a previous version?
I'm assuming the following:

  • When you check the source of the TV, it hasn't switched from the AVR input when it goes blank.
  • You're only viewing HDMI content. The 575 doesn't upconvert (manual, p. 100) from component, etc.
  • You're testing with multiple HDMI devices ... e.g. BD Player, game console, cable digital receiver, same results.
  • You've tried connecting one or more of the HDMI sources directly into the TV, and display is normal.

Does the TV have an "info" button on the remote that shows the resolution etc that's being display? Turn that on then switch to an HDMI source on the AVR, what doe the TV say before going blank?



Do you have any devices with component (red, green, blue) video output? Does your TV have component video inputs? Can you hook those up from the 575 and switch to that, see if the same source works OK as component video....



Have you powered the AVR completely off, waited a minute, then powered on?



Last and most inconvenient: tried resetting the AVR to factory default settings? Might need to do this. Then set up as you have before (one setting at a time, then checking HDMI IN -> AVR -> HDMI OUT -> TV each time).

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT210, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
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post #2329 of 2333 Unread 03-27-2015, 03:38 PM
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Thanks for the detailed response.

It (magically?) started working when I tried it tonight after work. Perhpas it was having the AVR off for many hours that did the trick. For the record:
  • The TV remained on the proper source (HDMI-1)
  • The devices I was trying were only connected via HDMI.
  • I tried a Roku3, MINIX X8-H, and PS/3
  • I connected the ROKU to the TV's HDMI-2 and it worked fine.
  • I believe the TV still reported that the source was 1080p
  • I had turned the device off and on multiple times, but I hadn't tried turning it off for over a minute, until I tried it again tonight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
I'm assuming the following:

  • When you check the source of the TV, it hasn't switched from the AVR input when it goes blank.
  • You're only viewing HDMI content. The 575 doesn't upconvert (manual, p. 100) from component, etc.
  • You're testing with multiple HDMI devices ... e.g. BD Player, game console, cable digital receiver, same results.
  • You've tried connecting one or more of the HDMI sources directly into the TV, and display is normal.

Does the TV have an "info" button on the remote that shows the resolution etc that's being display? Turn that on then switch to an HDMI source on the AVR, what doe the TV say before going blank?



Do you have any devices with component (red, green, blue) video output? Does your TV have component video inputs? Can you hook those up from the 575 and switch to that, see if the same source works OK as component video....



Have you powered the AVR completely off, waited a minute, then powered on?



Last and most inconvenient: tried resetting the AVR to factory default settings? Might need to do this. Then set up as you have before (one setting at a time, then checking HDMI IN -> AVR -> HDMI OUT -> TV each time).
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post #2330 of 2333 Unread 03-27-2015, 10:45 PM
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Groovy. Yeah, sometimes the "longer than just a second" power cycle helps. Turn off, go make a martini/margarita, come back and turn on. Magic, and ... you've got a cocktail to enjoy.
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post #2331 of 2333 Unread Yesterday, 02:11 PM
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Synchronization off between zones A & B

I have zone B setup in a second room. For TV/Cable all is fine, radio and apple tv have zone a delayed from zone b. Anyone experience this? Ideas on how to fix?

Thanks for your help

RX-V575
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post #2332 of 2333 Unread Yesterday, 06:09 PM
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Jwtayl01, I suspect the third option on page 71 of the manual needs to be selected so the receiver understands those speakers are for zone B use, not the default which is for rear room surround use in the main room:

- Basic (default) Select this option when you use a normal speaker system (not using

Zone B speakers or a bi-amp connection).

- Bi-AMP Select this option when you connect front speakers that support

bi-amp connections (p.16).


- Zone B Select this option when you use Zone B speakers (p.61) in addition to

the speaker system in the main zone (Zone A).



In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

Last edited by m. zillch; Yesterday at 08:41 PM.
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Thanks! That was it!
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