The 'Official' 2013 Denon "E Series" / "X Series" AVR Model Owner's Thread & FAQ - Page 259 - AVS Forum
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post #7741 of 8728 Old 06-03-2014, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon D View Post

Batpig - Thanks for answering my questions on Friday. I post here only a few times a year but you've consistently answered all questions each time.


One interesting issue with X-1000, and I think one other person on here had the same issue based on searching. I have an older display -- one of the first televisions with HDMI -- and the Denon doesn't seem to interact with it via HDMI. The pass-through worked on the first day: Bluray --> X1000 --> old Sony display. Then a day later, the connection ceases to work. It was to the point where the Denon would not even process audio via HDMI from the bd-player... if the HDMI/monitor-out was even being connected to my display. As soon as I pulled out the HDMI from the monitor-out, the audio came back, I plug it back in, the audio is gone.

The other person who had a similar issue tried swapping out both cables and x1000 receivers, only to face the same issue. What we both had in common: we both had older televisions. Is this a common issue? If so, why would the connection work for one day, and cease to work afterwards?

Separately, I saw a conversation about the "dialogue level" setting - I'm still not 100% on what the function of this is. I did notice that the setting was "-1" after an Audyssey calibration. Do I leave this alone, or should it be set for zero?

Thanks all!

I had similar problems with my 2007 vintage Sony KDS-60A3000 and my X4000. I usually had audio but no video when changing HDMI inputs. I spent a couple of weeks trying all possible X4000 settings without much improvement. Placing a Monoprice HDMI switch between the X4000 and the TV, as suggested in the FAQ and by Batpig in his response to you, fixed the problem.

-pc
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post #7742 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 04:27 AM
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I'm sure this has been asked before, and I'm looking to replace a denon 4310. How does the x4000 compare? Of course the x4000 is newer, but is there anything about it that would be considered a downgrade?
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post #7743 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
The Audyssey Setup numbers will always reflect the original settings after running Audyssey so you can easily return to them should you desire, whereas the Manual Setup numbers reflect the changes you have made and are the current "active" settings used by the AVR.

Indeed and thanks for the response. I'm wondering why it seems to be resetting my "active" settings back to the original settings without any interaction? Sometimes it's after 3 days, sometimes it's 2 weeks.

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post #7744 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by guvadc View Post

I'm sure this has been asked before, and I'm looking to replace a denon 4310. How does the x4000 compare? Of course the x4000 is newer, but is there anything about it that would be considered a downgrade?

Other than no multi analog inputs, it would be considered an upgrade in audio quality if using Audyssey, as it uses the more advanced MultEQ XT32.

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post #7745 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by tcramer View Post

Indeed and thanks for the response. I'm wondering why it seems to be resetting my "active" settings back to the original settings without any interaction? Sometimes it's after 3 days, sometimes it's 2 weeks.

Unknown other than a possible short power outage?

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post #7746 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Unknown other than a possible short power outage?

That's a good thought. I'll have to keep a closer eye on when it happens and see if I can find a pattern.

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post #7747 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Unknown other than a possible short power outage?
To ward off this sort of nonsense I've made it a habit to put all my electronics gear behind a UPS. APC makes a decent little one, the BE550G.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019804U8/

The point isn't to keep things running when the power goes out. The point is to avoid the devices acting up should the power fluctuate.

We have a 20kw generator, but in recent years Pepco has dramatically improved their previously ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE service. We still have the occasional quick blips of power loss, but nowhere near the previous extended outages. The APCs handle it with no interruptions to the devices.
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post #7748 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 07:03 AM
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I didn't see the answer to this in the manual: do the Quick Select buttons also turn the unit on?
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post #7749 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 07:26 AM
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New X2000, running 7.1, when I run Audyssey, it doesn't seem the find the subwoofer, nor does any sound come out of it when it is discovering it.

 

But .... when I run the various checks on the Disney WOW disc, and when I watch media, the subwoofer is certainly working, and working well.

 

Sub is an SVS PB-12

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks!

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post #7750 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by crbaldwin View Post

I didn't see the answer to this in the manual: do the Quick Select buttons also turn the unit on?

Yes. They will.

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post #7751 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by fjendra View Post

New X2000, running 7.1, when I run Audyssey, it doesn't seem the find the subwoofer, nor does any sound come out of it when it is discovering it.

But .... when I run the various checks on the Disney WOW disc, and when I watch media, the subwoofer is certainly working, and working well.

Sub is an SVS PB-12

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Do you have the SVS set to about 9 o'clock on the sub gain knob? Also set it to ON while running Audyssey and then back to Auto when you're finished.

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post #7752 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post


Do you have the SVS set to about 9 o'clock on the sub gain knob? Also set it to ON while running Audyssey and then back to Auto when you're finished.

 

Yes to the switch being in the 'on' position, and I'm running it with gain at 12 o'clock ... (at times, while trying various things) during testing I had the gain wide open and even increased the level of the sub to +12db and could not get a test tone to come out from the Denon. Though the other 7 speakers toned out as expected.

 

While playing with WOW and another DTS demo disc, I found a good setting of around +3db (for the sub and 12 o'clock gain) , a little on the high end, but I like it a little spicy.

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post #7753 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 11:51 AM
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I'm experiencing problems with my SR5008. My problem is with my DirecTV. When I power everything up 50% of the time video works fine, but I have no audio. I have to turn off the AVR and turn it back on for it to work. I also have issues where well after start-up, my TV will go black for 2-3 seconds and come back with very choppy video. Again, I turn off the receiver and turn it back on and it works fine. I don't know that this is an issue across the board because have not had the time to watch any blu rays or DVD's for testing. However, I find this unacceptable becuase this AVR will be used with my DirecTV 85% of the time. I called Marantz support twice on this issue. The first call they told me to power on my components in a specific order. TV, AVR, then DirecTV. Marantz service didn't even try to trouble shoot this issue with me beyond the recommended turn on sequence. They didn't even check the video settings with me. Instead, they just offered to send me a new replacement, which I found surprising and odd.

On another note, I contacted Accessories 4 Less, who I bought this unit from. They said that they have fielded this issue many times and found that low quality HDMI cables are the culprit and recommended I purchase better cables. I found this a bit ridiculous, but they were rather certain.

Once I receive the new AVR I will see if the problem goes away. If not, I guess I'll try new HDMI cables. Does anyone else have any experiences with this sort of issue using a Marantz or other brand of AVR?
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post #7754 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjendra View Post

Yes to the switch being in the 'on' position, and I'm running it with gain at 12 o'clock ... (at times, while trying various things) during testing I had the gain wide open and even increased the level of the sub to +12db and could not get a test tone to come out from the Denon. Though the other 7 speakers toned out as expected.

While playing with WOW and another DTS demo disc, I found a good setting of around +3db (for the sub and 12 o'clock gain) , a little on the high end, but I like it a little spicy.

Try resetting the microprocessor (post #5 of this thread).

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post #7755 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootshescores View Post

I'm experiencing problems with my SR5008. My problem is with my DirecTV. When I power everything up 50% of the time video works fine, but I have no audio. I have to turn off the AVR and turn it back on for it to work. I also have issues where well after start-up, my TV will go black for 2-3 seconds and come back with very choppy video. Again, I turn off the receiver and turn it back on and it works fine. I don't know that this is an issue across the board because have not had the time to watch any blu rays or DVD's for testing. However, I find this unacceptable becuase this AVR will be used with my DirecTV 85% of the time. I called Marantz support twice on this issue. The first call they told me to power on my components in a specific order. TV, AVR, then DirecTV. Marantz service didn't even try to trouble shoot this issue with me beyond the recommended turn on sequence. They didn't even check the video settings with me. Instead, they just offered to send me a new replacement, which I found surprising and odd.

On another note, I contacted Accessories 4 Less, who I bought this unit from. They said that they have fielded this issue many times and found that low quality HDMI cables are the culprit and recommended I purchase better cables. I found this a bit ridiculous, but they were rather certain.

Once I receive the new AVR I will see if the problem goes away. If not, I guess I'll try new HDMI cables. Does anyone else have any experiences with this sort of issue using a Marantz or other brand of AVR?

Oops. Wrong thread. Please post in the Marantz thread for that model.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482248/the-official-marantz-sr5008-sr6008-and-sr7008-av-receiver-owners-thread/0_100

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post #7756 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guvadc View Post

I'm sure this has been asked before, and I'm looking to replace a denon 4310. How does the x4000 compare? Of course the x4000 is newer, but is there anything about it that would be considered a downgrade?
Go with 4520 or Marantz 7008
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post #7757 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootshescores View Post

I'm experiencing problems with my SR5008. My problem is with my DirecTV. When I power everything up 50% of the time video works fine, but I have no audio. I have to turn off the AVR and turn it back on for it to work. I also have issues where well after start-up, my TV will go black for 2-3 seconds and come back with very choppy video. Again, I turn off the receiver and turn it back on and it works fine. I don't know that this is an issue across the board because have not had the time to watch any blu rays or DVD's for testing. However, I find this unacceptable becuase this AVR will be used with my DirecTV 85% of the time. I called Marantz support twice on this issue. The first call they told me to power on my components in a specific order. TV, AVR, then DirecTV. Marantz service didn't even try to trouble shoot this issue with me beyond the recommended turn on sequence. They didn't even check the video settings with me. Instead, they just offered to send me a new replacement, which I found surprising and odd.

On another note, I contacted Accessories 4 Less, who I bought this unit from. They said that they have fielded this issue many times and found that low quality HDMI cables are the culprit and recommended I purchase better cables. I found this a bit ridiculous, but they were rather certain.

Once I receive the new AVR I will see if the problem goes away. If not, I guess I'll try new HDMI cables. Does anyone else have any experiences with this sort of issue using a Marantz or other brand of AVR?
It's not the receiver, take directv power oullet put it in the wall socket not in surge protector I had the same problem.
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post #7758 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

To ward off this sort of nonsense I've made it a habit to put all my electronics gear behind a UPS. APC makes a decent little one, the BE550G.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019804U8/

The point isn't to keep things running when the power goes out. The point is to avoid the devices acting up should the power fluctuate.

We have a 20kw generator, but in recent years Pepco has dramatically improved their previously ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE service. We still have the occasional quick blips of power loss, but nowhere near the previous extended outages. The APCs handle it with no interruptions to the devices.

So.... Is this thing always running on the battery, or does it take some amount of time to switch over when it sees an outage? I'm asking because I've got a computer that can see everything. No other device in the house can see it, except us poor dumb humans can see a tiny flicker of lights. But the other computers stay up, none of the appliances show any error codes, etc. But this one computer (wife's, of course) sees even the smallest drop in cycles.

I'm actually looking at buying a bunch of these, for computers, AVR/TV, etc. I'd just like to find one that I can be sure is quick enough. Not looking to keep equipment running really, just to get it over the odd 10 cycle drop by Duke Energy.

Centuries ago I lived in PEPCO territory. I feel your pain. Just sayin'.
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post #7759 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 01:02 PM
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Im looking at subs and thinking either PC13-Ultra or 2x PB2000. I have the Denon x4000 which would you go for?

TV: SONY 65" 4K X900 - AVR: DENON AVR x4000 - AMP: ROTEL RMB 1585 5Ch 200w - OPPO 103D BD PLAYER
CENTRE: KEF Q600c - FRONT L/R: KEF Q900 - WIDE FRONT L/R: KEF Q300
SURROUND L/R: KEF Q800DS's - SURROUND BACK L/R: MINX 21's
SUB: SVS PC13-ULTRA
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post #7760 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 01:56 PM
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^^
Two subs are generally going to better than one, although will depend on your room size and whether fully enclosed or not. Suggest you call SVS directly and describe your room dynamics and listening preference and let them advise you. smile.gif

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post #7761 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Other than no multi analog inputs, it would be considered an upgrade in audio quality if using Audyssey, as it uses the more advanced MultEQ XT32.

I sold my 4310 for an x4000 and I am quite happy with it. Yes, Audyssey MultiEQ XT32 does a better job at room correction thanthe 4310's XT did. I do miss several features (the loss of multi analog inputs isn't a concern for me)
:
1. There is no set of lights on the receiver to tell you if Audyssey, DynEQ, and DynVolume are activated.
2. There is no switched AC outlet on the back
3. The remote lacks Quick Select buttons

On the other hand, the interface for DLNA streaming is easier to use because you can page through the list of files instead of going a line at a time. AirPlay is there if I want it.

There are other feature changes, but none of them except the improved Audyssey version has any effect on audio quality. With Audyssey turned off on both AVRs, I could not tell the difference in audio quality between them. The small difference in rated power output is meaningless.

AT&T U-Verse Northeast Ohio

Denon x4000, Samsung LED TV, B&W 704 mains, two M&K subwoofers, Oppo 103, etc.
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post #7762 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 02:19 PM
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Some types of computer power supplies are much more sensitive than others. I don't have that problem, but recall reading of others having problems. So it's not just you.

Generally, a UPS shouldn't run off the battery constantly, only when power actually dips enough or dies. Do some web searching for more?
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post #7763 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbarach View Post

I sold my 4310 for an x4000 and I am quite happy with it. Yes, Audyssey MultiEQ XT32 does a better job at room correction thanthe 4310's XT did. I do miss several features (the loss of multi analog inputs isn't a concern for me)
:
1. There is no set of lights on the receiver to tell you if Audyssey, DynEQ, and DynVolume are activated.
2. There is no switched AC outlet on the back
3. The remote lacks Quick Select buttons

On the other hand, the interface for DLNA streaming is easier to use because you can page through the list of files instead of going a line at a time. AirPlay is there if I want it.

There are other feature changes, but none of them except the improved Audyssey version has any effect on audio quality. With Audyssey turned off on both AVRs, I could not tell the difference in audio quality between them. The small difference in rated power output is meaningless.

1. There is an Audyssey light (but no separate Dyn EQ or Dyn Volume); however, the other two settings can be seen by selecting the OSD menu.
2. This can be easily replicated with a smart power strip.
3. If you use a Harmony remote, the Quick Selection functionality from an older model AVR remote can be copied to the Harmony.

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post #7764 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 05:55 PM
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I have a quick question concerning the Audyssey measurement microphone. I have always been extremely careful never to touch the tip itself with anything. Is the tip the microphone itself, or is it a covering to protect the mic? I ask because by accident when moving the mic during measurements, a clean towel was dragged over the tip. There is no damage that I can see (ie. scratches, etc), but of course that means nothing. Given the necessary sensitivity of the mic to the audio frequencies used in the pings, I would imagine it to be extremely delicate. Am I worrying about nothing? Thanks!

Hi all,

I had asked a question concerning possible damage to the measurement microphone by contact with the tip, but after some research found it to have been poorly worded, and not at all clear as to my concern.

What Happened: While moving the microphone, a clean towel was dragged over the tip.

My Concern: Given the construction of an electret microphone, I was worried that the diaphragm may have been damaged (my pedestrian understanding was that the tip WAS the diaphragm, which is why I thought it was so delicate.)

Said research relieved my fears in that the diaphragm is not exposed, but is in fact protected by a dust cover. My searches also showed that I was not alone in my query, so in hopes of helping others with similar concerns,

http://www.openmusiclabs.com/learning/sensors/electret-microphones/

Thanks to all for indulging my paranoia...smile.gif

Peace... Vader
 

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post #7765 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 06:19 PM
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So I bought some wireless headphones for night time viewing and I wanted to listen to any device I have hooked up to my Denon X4000. ( mainly cable tv, ps3 and xbox 360 )

I tried looking around for a stereo out connection on the x4000 to hook up the wireless headphones but couldn't find anything. How do I do this?
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post #7766 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 06:32 PM
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Zone 2/3 outputs do the trick? If I enable one of the zones and connect the stereo cable to it? Would it work for any source connected to the Denon then?
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post #7767 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vader424242 View Post

Hi all,

I had asked a question concerning possible damage to the measurement microphone by contact with the tip, but after some research found it to have been poorly worded, and not at all clear as to my concern.

What Happened: While moving the microphone, a clean towel was dragged over the tip.

My Concern: Given the construction of an electret microphone, I was worried that the diaphragm may have been damaged (my pedestrian understanding was that the tip WAS the diaphragm, which is why I thought it was so delicate.)

Said research relieved my fears in that the diaphragm is not exposed, but is in fact protected by a dust cover. My searches also showed that I was not alone in my query, so in hopes of helping others with similar concerns,

http://www.openmusiclabs.com/learning/sensors/electret-microphones/

Thanks to all for indulging my paranoia...smile.gif

Ha, "just the tip"😁
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post #7768 of 8728 Old 06-04-2014, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

So I bought some wireless headphones for night time viewing and I wanted to listen to any device I have hooked up to my Denon X4000. ( mainly cable tv, ps3 and xbox 360 )

I tried looking around for a stereo out connection on the x4000 to hook up the wireless headphones but couldn't find anything. How do I do this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

Zone 2/3 outputs do the trick? If I enable one of the zones and connect the stereo cable to it? Would it work for any source connected to the Denon then?

And what about digital wireless headphones. How would I connect those to the Denon? I didn't see a SPDIF out either on the back of the x4000
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post #7769 of 8728 Old 06-05-2014, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

So I bought some wireless headphones for night time viewing and I wanted to listen to any device I have hooked up to my Denon X4000. ( mainly cable tv, ps3 and xbox 360 )

I tried looking around for a stereo out connection on the x4000 to hook up the wireless headphones but couldn't find anything. How do I do this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

Zone 2/3 outputs do the trick? If I enable one of the zones and connect the stereo cable to it? Would it work for any source connected to the Denon then?

If you use the Zone 2 pre-outs and set HDMI Audio (p. 194 OM) to PCM, this should work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post


And what about digital wireless headphones. How would I connect those to the Denon? I didn't see a SPDIF out either on the back of the x4000

There is no optical output so you would need to use analog --> digital optical converter from the Zone 2 pre-outs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0U00D18035

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post #7770 of 8728 Old 06-05-2014, 05:10 AM
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So.... Is this thing always running on the battery, or does it take some amount of time to switch over when it sees an outage? I'm asking because I've got a computer that can see everything. No other device in the house can see it, except us poor dumb humans can see a tiny flicker of lights. But the other computers stay up, none of the appliances show any error codes, etc. But this one computer (wife's, of course) sees even the smallest drop in cycles.

I'm actually looking at buying a bunch of these, for computers, AVR/TV, etc. I'd just like to find one that I can be sure is quick enough. Not looking to keep equipment running really, just to get it over the odd 10 cycle drop by Duke Energy.

Centuries ago I lived in PEPCO territory. I feel your pain. Just sayin'.

 

I live in Atlanta in a neighborhood with large pine trees and where the power lines are mostly above ground, resulting in not infrequent power blips, brown-outs, and full-blown outages of various duration.  For many years I have had my PC's and ALL of my A/V equipment connected to UPS's.  Those items for which continuous operation is a concern are connected to the UPS's battery-backup outlets and the others are on surge-protection outlets.  When a power blip occurs it does not cause any discernible effect on any of the connected equipment so long as the UPS battery is operational (the batteries will wear out and need replacing every two to three years or so depending on usage).  The switch-over from AC current to battery power during an outage occurs automatically and is virtually instantaneous.

 

Personally, while I use and have used a variety of brands, including APC, IBM (now Tripp Lite), and Belkin, I prefer CyberPower for their products' reliability, durability, features, and reasonable pricing (look for sales to get a good bargain).  I particularly like the CyberPower "PowerPanel Personal Edition" software program;  by connecting the supplied USB cable between the UPS and your PC (or to a laptop in the case of an A/V application) you can monitor the unit's operational status and history.  Here's a snapshot of the PowerPanel's user interface:

 

 

 

Status - Normal 

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