The 'Official' 2013 Denon "E Series" / "X Series" AVR Model Owner's Thread & FAQ - Page 301 - AVS Forum
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post #9001 of 9806 Old 10-05-2014, 05:08 PM
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^^
Send it to an authorized repair center that is closest to you (ie. not Amazon.de).

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post #9002 of 9806 Old 10-05-2014, 11:58 PM
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I currently own a 2112ci, and I find that I'm a rather big fan of the quick select buttons. The 2013 models are tempting me with their great discounts (I'd like to move the 2112 to a different room), but honestly... as silly as it sounds, the lack of quick select buttons really makes me shy away. So, is it possible to use a newer model's remote with an older model? For example, if I bought an x2000, could I use an x2100's remote, which has the quick select buttons?
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post #9003 of 9806 Old 10-06-2014, 06:20 AM
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Yup. Although might be easier to buy a Harmony remote and download the Quick Select buttons from your 2112CI.

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post #9004 of 9806 Old 10-06-2014, 03:30 PM
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Hello guys.

Is there anyway one can hook 3 (instead of 2) speakers to a Second or Third Zone on the X-4000?

Thanks!
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Is it a mono or stereo speaker? Just wire it in series.

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post #9006 of 9806 Old 10-06-2014, 05:48 PM
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Hi members! I am about to drop the ball on a X1100W. I purchased the Infinity p363 and according to one of the member's finding; the p363 are actually 4ohm.

I was wondering if the x1100w is running hot wit 4 ohms or will it handle it safely?

Thank you!

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post #9007 of 9806 Old 10-06-2014, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
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The Infinity Primus have been measured to have some low impedance dips but they are also very efficient speakers so shouldn't be a problem unless you are trying to drive them insanely loud. What I would do is make sure you have a return window so you can give the setup a workout at the volumes you would consider typical for your uses and make sure it's OK.

I bet you will be fine. The Primus are among the most popular budget speakers out there, and thus almost by definition most people are driving them with typical entry to mid level AVR's and you don't hear a ton of complaints of overheating receivers. There is more to a "difficult to drive" label than just the nominal impedance rating, there are a lot of other factors as well.

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post #9008 of 9806 Old 10-06-2014, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post
The Infinity Primus have been measured to have some low impedance dips but they are also very efficient speakers so shouldn't be a problem unless you are trying to drive them insanely loud. What I would do is make sure you have a return window so you can give the setup a workout at the volumes you would consider typical for your uses and make sure it's OK.

I bet you will be fine. The Primus are among the most popular budget speakers out there, and thus almost by definition most people are driving them with typical entry to mid level AVR's and you don't hear a ton of complaints of overheating receivers. There is more to a "difficult to drive" label than just the nominal impedance rating, there are a lot of other factors as well.

Thanks batpig for the tips and quick confirmation. Btw I have read your website!

Thanks! Btw I love the frenchie.
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post #9009 of 9806 Old 10-07-2014, 12:41 PM
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I'm about to set up my rack and hook up my new AVR-X4000! I'm moving stuff around since I have new components and would like to confirm something...

From the manual it looks like the X4000 needs a direct line of sight to the remote, correct? The lower shelves will be blocked by my couch if I'm lying down and enjoying a movie so I'm trying to determine the lowest level I can put the AVR on.

Also, is it worth getting a Harmony remote?

Thanks!
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post #9010 of 9806 Old 10-07-2014, 12:48 PM
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I've noticed the x4000 is very finicky when it comes to IR. Leaving the AVR in the exact same location as the Onkyo it replaced I could not communicate with it from my remote. I had to setup an RF repeater for my URC remote so that I didn't have to move anything.

As for a Harmony remote, I went from an old URC MX850 to a Harmony 900. I hated the Harmony and went back to URC with the MX890. YMMV however...
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post #9011 of 9806 Old 10-07-2014, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onk Yo View Post
From the manual it looks like the X4000 needs a direct line of sight to the remote, correct? The lower shelves will be blocked by my couch if I'm lying down and enjoying a movie so I'm trying to determine the lowest level I can put the AVR on.
You can add an IR receiver if you need one. I myself prefer using the upper shelf for my AVR. I reserve the lower shelves for equipment that doesn't need remotes (e.g. ethernet switch...) or with non-IR remotes (e.g. PS3).

Quote:
Also, is it worth getting a Harmony remote?
I have a love/hate relationship with Logitech. My Harmony 650 remotes have solved lots of headaches. But at the same time, created lots too. I think it's still the best under-$100 setup control solution (can't justify $350 for remotes!) but in reality, the whole IR thing needs to die before controlling HT setups with more than five pieces of equipment gets better.
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post #9012 of 9806 Old 10-07-2014, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onk Yo View Post
I'm about to set up my rack and hook up my new AVR-X4000! I'm moving stuff around since I have new components and would like to confirm something...

From the manual it looks like the X4000 needs a direct line of sight to the remote, correct? The lower shelves will be blocked by my couch if I'm lying down and enjoying a movie so I'm trying to determine the lowest level I can put the AVR on.

Also, is it worth getting a Harmony remote?

Thanks!
Higher is better, but it is still likely to work even when placed on a lower shelf.

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post #9013 of 9806 Old 10-07-2014, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgendreau View Post
As for a Harmony remote, I went from an old URC MX850 to a Harmony 900. I hated the Harmony and went back to URC with the MX890. YMMV however...
I have a very old MX8xx, might be the 850, but I never figured out how to program it. I finally found software to work with but I didn't understand all the Hex stuff and so it's in a box somewhere. Is it still useable? I have to find the software... I'm on the second laptop since the one I had at the time but I still have the HDD so I have the software somewhere...

Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post
You can add an IR receiver if you need one. I myself prefer using the upper shelf for my AVR. I reserve the lower shelves for equipment that doesn't need remotes (e.g. ethernet switch...) or with non-IR remotes (e.g. PS3).
Hm... I'll have to check what type my Xbox 360 and One have, maybe at least one of them can go on the bottom.

Thanks!
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post #9014 of 9806 Old 10-07-2014, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Onk Yo View Post
Hm... I'll have to check what type my Xbox 360 and One have, maybe at least one of them can go on the bottom.
I think they're both basically dual-control. Contrary to the PS3, they have an IR port and can be controlled directly by an IR-based universal remote. But the controllers are RF and do not require line of sight. So if you're only using the controllers you don't really need line of sight and the Xbox can safely be put on the lower shelf. However if you regularly use your Xbox as a media player or disc player, it could be handy to use the universal remote to play/pause/etc.

Logitech now sells a combined IR-and-RF blaster, which speaks to remotes and/or the companion mobile app, but this setup is quite expensive. For $100 you get the "hub", which is the combined IR/RF blaster, which can speak to either your smartphone, the smallest remote (Harmony Smart Control, $30) which doesn't have an LCD screen, or the full-fledged one (Harmony Ultimate One, $250) with LCD screen. You can then buy various combos such as the Hub and Smart remote for 130$, or the Hub and Ultimate One for $350. I believe that the remotes alone are IR-only.

Now I have no idea if the Hub can speak to the Xbox One using RF instead of IR though.

The other remotes (Harmony 650 and 700) are (probably artificially) limited to a preset number of devices (5 and 6, respectively) that you can control. (I just checked and the 700 is no longer being sold, and the 650 has been updated to 8 devices it seems, IR-only of course).

Now if all devices had IP-based control with open protocols like the Denon, we could see tons of software and apps to control them from the local network...
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post #9015 of 9806 Old 10-07-2014, 10:12 PM
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Can the x4000 do hdmi control with a 4k ? Cuz I recently upgraded to a Sony 4k but hdmi control doesn't work
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Okay... got everything cleaned off and organized and shelf space adjusted... pulled out all my boxes of extra cables... found my URC remotes that I have no idea how to program!

Now I have a newbie question:

So I have an HDMI spitter since I have a projector to install in the future as well as my TV. I was thinking that since the X4000 has 2 HDMI outs that I didn't need the splitter anymore. However, my TV does not have ARC as far as I can tell, so according to what I see in the manual I don't use the HDMI port that is for ARC enabled TVs. So then I do still need the HDMI splitter since the projector doesn't put out sound either? Or can I still use that port for one of them? Can it possibly hurt anything?

Also, I don't have cable/satellite TV. I use an HD antenna to watch some stuff now and then. So to get that audio through my X4000 I need an optical cable, right?

Sorry for my inexperience, thanks for your patience!
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Yes, you can still use ARC output with a non-ARC TV, and as it is non-ARC, yes, your only way to get audio back to AVR is via optical cable.
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post #9018 of 9806 Old 10-08-2014, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2pacalypsenow View Post
Can the x4000 do hdmi control with a 4k ? Cuz I recently upgraded to a Sony 4k but hdmi control doesn't work
HDMI Control or HDMI Standby Pass Through, as HDMI Control is not required for the latter? And HDMI Control doesn't always work, although should at least power both devices off.

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post #9019 of 9806 Old 10-08-2014, 01:28 AM
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^^
Yes, you can still use ARC output with a non-ARC TV, and as it is non-ARC, yes, your only way to get audio back to AVR is via optical cable.
Thanks!

So can I use one HDMI out for the TV and the other for the projector and use the X4000 to choose which to use?
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post #9020 of 9806 Old 10-08-2014, 01:33 AM
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^^
Correct. That is the intended purpose of the dual main zone outputs. You also have a Zone 2 output for a TV in another room as well.
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post #9021 of 9806 Old 10-08-2014, 06:50 AM
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AVR-2000 no longer shows "info" or volume slider on tv when cbl/sat is the source. Audio and video content are displayed. The "info" and volume slider appear on the unit, but not on tv. I do see "info" and volume on the tv when the source is media player (roku) or network. I did recently unplug all connections to my AVR-2000 in order to place it and other components in a new media cabinet. Took pictures, lots of notes. Pretty sure I reconnected all cables to their original configuration. On reconnect, the video from cable box appeared briefly, then went blank, audio remained. Unplugged hdmi from cable box and AVR-2000; unplugged both units. Eventually both audio and video from cable box came back. Cable box connects to AVR-2000 by hdmi, audio L and R are connected from cable box to AVR-2000.


I would like to restore "info" and volume slider to be visible on the tv when cbl/sat is selected. Any ideas?
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The Video Conversion setting for that source must be set to ON.

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post #9023 of 9806 Old 10-08-2014, 08:14 AM
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Hey, guys:

Another newbie Denon owner here and have a question (I googled around the forums and didn't find any existing info, so....). Not sure if this should go into the Audyssey thread or here, so I'll start here.

SO--As part of an HT upgrade, I recently bought a refurbed X1000 (half price at Accessories4less so couldn't NOT buy it, and it's a HUGE upgrade over my ten year old, low-end, Onkyo). I also bought Emptek E5Bi bookshelfs, E5Ci center, and an SVS PB-1000 sub (I kept my aging Cambridge Soundworks Newtons for surrounds). The room is about 15' by 20', although the actual listening area takes up only the left half, so is small.

I ran Audyssey, meticulously following all the guidelines (proper settings for sub, used camera tripod to mount mic at listening height, quiet environment, other gagdets off, arranged listening positions per guidelines, kept myself out of the room, etc). The result is 100% better than what I had before, no doubt. The issue is that I notice that to get any appreciable volume, I have to crank the Denon up to 50 or greater. Out of curiosity, I checked the config, and Audyssey has my speaker and sub distances set to around 14', which seems right.

Is this volume thing expected behavior for my setup? Having no previous experience with Denons or AVRs, it probably is. If it isn't, want to make sure I didn't do something wrong with Audyssey or I'm missing a setting on the receiver.

TIA,

Andrew
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post #9024 of 9806 Old 10-08-2014, 08:24 AM
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Yes, average volume will be 50-70.

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post #9025 of 9806 Old 10-08-2014, 08:35 AM
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Great! Thanks for the confirmation. Just wanted to make sure I'm not more deaf than I thought I was.

Oh, and the Denon is an X2000, duh.

A.

Last edited by Atticusf; 10-08-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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Quote:
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^^
The Video Conversion setting for that source must be set to ON.

bless your heart! that was simple, thank you
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very happy Denon and AVS customer

home remodel offered the chance to move from old equipment with audio distributed to in ceiling speakers, and few old floor standing speakers, tv with $80 sound bar to Denon AVR-4000 in a den. (7.1) I did purchase from a local outfit that has been doing installs for a very long time; took their equipment advice, was able to run wires myself, with their guidance, when studs were available. Put an AVR-2000 in bedroom,(5.0 zone no sub) zone 2 goes to large closet and bathroom. Most recent purchase is Bowers and Wilkins CM10, open box from Best Buy. I must say they sound nice. I was able to compare my 20 year old Bose 301's next to the CM10's in the room. Honestly, it was close call. The differences were not all that striking.


The Denon products perform well, they are complex pieces of equipment, I recommend anyone new to this level of sophistication, get professional help. My installer made all of the connections, from there I can "tinker".


AVS forum has been very helpful, especially as I "tinker". I appreciate the opportunity to read posts, and ask questions.
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^^
Sounds like repair is required.
I contacted Mike at ASD and he is sending me a new one. Glad I don't have to take it in for repair. I wasn't looking forward to the 1.5 hour round trip.

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HDMI Control or HDMI Standby Pass Through, as HDMI Control is not required for the latter? And HDMI Control doesn't always work, although should at least power both devices off.
when i had my w850b everuything worked perfect tv would turn on/off and switch to the correct input on my ps3/4 now nothing works :-/
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post #9030 of 9806 Old 10-08-2014, 11:17 AM
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^^
Try doing the HDMI reset as listed in my post 3 of this thread and below ...

The 'Official' 2013 Denon "E Series" / "X Series" AVR Model Owner's Thread & FAQ

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