The *** Official Marantz NR1604 *** Owners Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 830 Old 04-01-2014, 08:57 PM
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Silly I know but would not feel comfortable asking someone to do that. Also, would prefer a more permanent solution.

Thank you for suggestions and all your help!!

For what it is worth, talked with Verizon tech this afternoon about my problem of being unable to download the latest update. He updated the router and I just now finished the download. Went off with no problem.

Best regards,

Steve
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post #542 of 830 Old 04-02-2014, 04:18 AM
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Excellent. Was it just a standard firmware update to bring it up to date or was there some special update required?

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post #543 of 830 Old 04-02-2014, 05:34 AM
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The tech didn't really say, but my impression from the way he talked was that it was more of a standard firmware update.

When I started my update and saw Authenticating again, I thought oh no here we go again. But after several minutes it was alright. At the start, it said the update would take 44 minutes and it hit that mark almost exactly. Very happy with the process.
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post #544 of 830 Old 04-08-2014, 02:04 PM
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Now that everything is good, have a couple of more routine questions.

1. Have unit plugged into a surge protector's "control outlet". The unit plugged in here is supposed to turn on and off the power to the other outlets. It does not seem to be doing that. The power is always on, even when the AVR is turned off. My previous receiver when powered off would turn off the power to the other outlets. Does the 1604 always have a power on state when the power button on the remote is pressed? Hope this makes sense.

2. Accidentally discovered today that when the 1604 is turned off (power button on remote), video from my cable dvr (which is on) is still passed to the TV. Is this normal behavior for the AVR?

Thank you for any help or advice.
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post #545 of 830 Old 04-08-2014, 02:54 PM
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I bet there is enough current draw in standby to fool your surge protector that the unit is "on". Note, AVR doesn't turn off, just standby

Yes, the Cable HDMI port is the default pass-through port. When in standby, the AVR passes the HDMI input directly to the HDMI output.
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post #546 of 830 Old 04-08-2014, 03:16 PM
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/\ /\

Thank you very much, both answers make sense. In fact, after you mentioned pass-through I remembered that was how I had it set up. Duh! Had forgotten all about that.

Thanks much again.

Best regards,

Steve Adams
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post #547 of 830 Old 04-08-2014, 04:08 PM
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I was reading up on the Zone 2 functionality and it said it can not use digital audio sources for analog Zone 2 playback. Is this true?

I have a wireless headset and planned on using Zone 2 as the output, but all of my inputncontent (aside from one source) will be coming in via HDMI.
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post #548 of 830 Old 04-08-2014, 05:28 PM
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Question: In regards to 4k passthrough and upscale; can you pick what you want it to do either/or? Just got a 4k TV and want to upgrade the old NR1403. The TV upscales internally and would just rather let the TV do it.

Thanks in advance

A.
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post #549 of 830 Old 04-09-2014, 04:50 AM
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^^
Yes, you can turn the upscaling off on the AVR to let the TV do the job.

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post #550 of 830 Old 04-09-2014, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazexa View Post

I was reading up on the Zone 2 functionality and it said it can not use digital audio sources for analog Zone 2 playback. Is this true?

I have a wireless headset and planned on using Zone 2 as the output, but all of my inputncontent (aside from one source) will be coming in via HDMI.

For an independent source from the main zone, yes, that is correct, although on board sources (eg. Tuner, Pandora, Airplay, Internet radio, etc.) can also play independently to Zone 2. However, if you want to play the same HDMI 2.0 source that is playing in the main zone to Zone 2, you can use the "All Zone Stereo" surround mode (p. 69 OM). Otherwise, to play an independent HDMI/digital source to Zone 2, you will have to use a 3rd party DAC to convert the digital signal to analog first before connecting to the AVR. The SR6008 is the lowest model that can convert an independent HDMI/digital source to Zone 2 playback.

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post #551 of 830 Old 04-09-2014, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

For an independent source from the main zone, yes, that is correct, although on board sources (eg. Tuner, Pandora, Airplay, Internet radio, etc.) can also play independently to Zone 2. However, if you want to play the same HDMI 2.0 source that is playing in the main zone to Zone 2, you can use the "All Zone Stereo" surround mode (p. 69 OM). Otherwise, to play an independent HDMI/digital source to Zone 2, you will have to use a 3rd party DAC to convert the digital signal to analog first before connecting to the AVR. The SR6008 is the lowest model that can convert an independent HDMI/digital source to Zone 2 playback.
Oh, no, that'll work. I just will be using the Zone 2 with the headset for night operation when I can't have volume up.
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post #552 of 830 Old 04-10-2014, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Yes, you can turn the upscaling off on the AVR to let the TV do the job.

Thanks for the response.
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post #553 of 830 Old 04-13-2014, 02:30 AM
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Hi all

 

I bought an NR1604 about 6 months ago and generally love it, however since then I have had occasional problems (acute some days) with HDMI video dropouts (black screen) and screen flickering. What appears to happen is one of two things:

* the screen becomes completely black for a couple of seconds. TV seems to think there is still a signal (it doesn't go into "no signal" mode or whatever) - it's just black. This is the worst. It kills multiplayer PS3/PS4 gaming; and is annoying as hell while watching a movie.

* sometimes the bottom half of the screen shows a white flicker for a fraction of a second. Usually it's just a couple of flickers, other times it'll do it for 10 seconds on and off and then stop.

 

The sound is unaffected during these issues. This happens across all input sources; my cable box, PS3, PS4, a Mac Mini. All are using HDMI. I have tried switching HDMI cables into the TV and HDMI ports on the TV - no difference.

 

In recent weeks I've started to notice a correlation with power usage; i.e. the number of things running on the circuit or in my house. More things running, more frequent/likely black screens and video dropouts. Sometimes just plugging in a cellphone or a tablet to start charging seems enough to trigger it. The white flickering and an occasional black video dropout is often reproducible by turning one of my halogen lights on and off. In desperation I tried switching all the power boards to ones with surge protection and moving stuff off one circuit onto a different living room circuit but hasn't made a difference that I can discern. The black screen is definitely more likely to happen when doing things like charging tablets; having fans/aircon going or using iron/hair drier in living room where the TV/AV receiver are.

 

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on here? Could my NR1604 have a dodgy internal power supply which is affecting the HDMI decode/encode? Are there settings I could/should try changing on the receiver itself? Should I call in an electrician and blame the home wiring? Could it be related to overheating - I live in Singapore and it's hot. :)

 

 I never had any problems with my old Onkyo HT340 (although that didn't have HDMI switching) or any other equipment. I imagine if I route all my input sources directly to the TV and bypass the receiver (and go back to optical audio) there would be no problem, but that kinda defeats the purpose of having such a receiver.

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post #554 of 830 Old 04-13-2014, 05:44 AM
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^^
Based on your description, sounds like a house wiring issue.
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post #555 of 830 Old 04-14-2014, 08:14 AM
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Does anyone know if there will be a Marantz nr. 1605 and when it can be purchased?
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post #556 of 830 Old 04-14-2014, 02:49 PM
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^^
The models are replaced every year, generally starting in the summer.

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post #557 of 830 Old 04-15-2014, 05:10 PM
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And as a continuum to JPDK's question will the new model be called the NR1605, or the NR1704? I ask as I'm not quite sure on Marantz's naming convention.
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post #558 of 830 Old 04-15-2014, 06:03 PM
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2012 - NR1603
2013 - NR1604

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post #559 of 830 Old 04-16-2014, 06:57 AM
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Thanks to JD I got a great deal on the 1604. And it has completely blown me away so far. I'll post pictures today!

For those wondering, I was worried the HDMO conversion from Component or Composite would introduce significant input lag. But I have noticed absolutely none.

I also greatly appreciate being able to stream internet radio while using a video source. This is also nice as a gamer. Can still play while listening to Pandora.

The binding posts are a bit close together. So I'd recommend people connect their speakers first.

The volume seems to... Step up kind of exponentially vs. evenly, but it could just be my room acoustics/layout.

As for now that's all I've got to say. More input soon.
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post #560 of 830 Old 04-16-2014, 12:43 PM
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^^
Great! Glad to hear you're enjoying it. Note that modern AVRs generally use a logarithmic volume scale so you'll have to raise it to at least 50% for any real volume and then likely to 70% for movie watching.
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post #561 of 830 Old 04-16-2014, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Great! Glad to hear you're enjoying it. Note that modern AVRs generally use a logarithmic volume scale so you'll have to raise it to at least 50% for any real volume and then likely to 70% for movie watching.

Oh heavens no, I'll get my butt handed too me if it's upwards of 70.

But for my small room size, and with my speakers efficiency (~96.5 dB) 50-60 is plenty comfortable.

But when no one else is home, maybe we'll go up that high. So far I've only pushed it to around "75.0 dB"
Comparatively so to my previous receiver, this one should be almost as loud correct? My old one was 75 WPC max.

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post #562 of 830 Old 04-16-2014, 05:42 PM
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Yup. smile.gif

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post #563 of 830 Old 04-17-2014, 03:34 AM
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After about half hour, my Marantz NR1604 goes into "Network" mode by itself.

When I go back to TV mode, it says disconnect from Anynet.

What is going on?

Happy Easter
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post #564 of 830 Old 04-17-2014, 06:20 AM
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^^
After you are finished using a Network source, try pressing/holding the ENTER button to STOP it rather than simply changing to another source.




Try doing a soft reset by unplugging the TV and the AVR for 10 minutes. If still no joy, you may want to consider disabling Anynet+ on the TV and instead connect an optical cable from the TV to the AVR.

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post #565 of 830 Old 04-18-2014, 03:16 AM
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so when can we expect any news about new range? I'm deciding if to wait for new model or buy 1604 rolleyes.gif thank you
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post #566 of 830 Old 04-18-2014, 07:50 AM
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^^
Likely later this summer.

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post #567 of 830 Old 04-18-2014, 10:55 AM
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Hello,

 

This is my first post on this forum and I have been following this thread before I bought my NR1604 recently. Everything works fine on this used unit except for AM/FM tuning, whenever I go to TUNER source, AM is stuck at default 520KHz and FM is stuck at default 92.10MHz and it doesnt change when I try to do it. I tried using web control too.

 

Does anyone had this kind of problem on this unit? Is there any special way to change the stations. I read the manual word to word on this section and different modes, but no luck.

 

thanks

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post #568 of 830 Old 04-18-2014, 11:02 AM
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^^
The first thing to do with a used/demo unit is to reset the microprocessor (p. 157 OM) to ensure all settings are returned to their factory default settings. You'll have to run Audyssey again unless you use Web Control to save the settings to a PC file.

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post #569 of 830 Old 04-19-2014, 06:47 AM
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Again, thanks JD for the excellent deal. Before anyone gets all worried about cooling, I've made sure it'll stay cool its little cubby. Plus, I have some fans blowing/pulling air to and off of the unit, so she'll be fine. My temp reader is saying it's staying around 80C for the "exhaust" air.

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post #570 of 830 Old 04-19-2014, 06:54 AM
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^^
Thanks for posting the pic as although your unit clearly doesn't have the requisite 3-4" clearance, you have mitigated any issues by adding the additional exhaust fans to ensure no overheating issues result. Great job! smile.gif

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