Sony STR-DN1040 Official Thread - Page 36 - AVS Forum
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post #1051 of 1079 Old 07-08-2014, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tinkinHD View Post
If I leave the 1040 in Multi Stereo because I like sound out of all 5 speakers sometimes, does that mean it is not necessary to change settings when playing Dolby or DTS movies because the signals know to change the receiver to 5.1?

When I play Pandora from my media streamer over HDMI, the 1040 flashes Theater then PCM. Where is that Theater setting?
Sound Modes are remembered for each unique input/source. So, if you listen to your music using DLNA, Bluetooth, Airplay, the Network services, USB, or a separate HDMI/Coax/Optical/Analog connection from the one you are using to watch to movies then you won't need to change the Sound Mode when switching from music to movies. However, if you use the same connection for music as you do for movies (e.g. the same Blu-Ray player for both music and movies, using a single HDMI connection) then you will need to change the Sound Mode from Multi-Stereo to A.F.D. (for Dolby/DTS soundtracks) and back again since you are not changing inputs/sources as far as the receiver is concerned. To me it's six one way vs. a half dozen the other, but some people who use the same source device for movies and music will make two separate connections between the source device and the AVR (e.g. HDMI for movies and Optical/Coaxial for music) and set the receiver up to use the appropriate connection based on the Watch/Listen activity selected. For example, when you want to listen to music, you select Listen-->CD and it will switch to the Coaxial/Optical connection and use the Multi-Stereo Sound Mode and when you want to watch a movie, you select Watch-->Blu-Ray and it will switch to the HDMI connection and use the A.F.D. Sound Mode, even though the music and movies are technically coming from the same source device. For some people it's just easier to use the activity based functions than it is to remember which Sound Mode they want to be using for each activity.

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post #1052 of 1079 Old 07-08-2014, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by swanamaker View Post
Update: switching my hdmi input back to A allowed pass through to work again, does anyone know if it only works through A or do i have some type of bad port?
I believe that Standby Passthru only works for HDMI Monitor Out A.

While the receiver is on, you should be able to pass video to either HDMI Monitor Out A, HDMI Monitor Out B, or both HDMI Monitor Out A+B. I am not sure if you can get audio to pass thru both HDMI Monitor Outs when you have HDMI A+B and AMP+TV selected, or if audio is only passed thru HDMI Monitor Out A in this situation. Obviously audio is only passed thru HDMI Monitor Out A when you have HDMI A and AMP+TV selected but it should pass audio thru HDMI Monitor Out B when you have HDMI B and AMP+TV selected. Again, the receiver has to be on for this to work.
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post #1053 of 1079 Old 07-09-2014, 06:28 PM
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Are you sure the receiver doesn't know to ignore 2-channel mode and output 5.1 discreet channels when the source is Dolby or DTS? When I stream a movie in 5.1, and then switch between Multi-Stereo and AFD modes, the output sounds identical, and the receiver says DTS-MA or whatever regardless.
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post #1054 of 1079 Old 07-10-2014, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by tinkinHD View Post
Are you sure the receiver doesn't know to ignore 2-channel mode and output 5.1 discreet channels when the source is Dolby or DTS? When I stream a movie in 5.1, and then switch between Multi-Stereo and AFD modes, the output sounds identical, and the receiver says DTS-MA or whatever regardless.
If the receiver overrode the sound mode you had selected simply because it detected a Dolby/DTS 5.1/7.1 soundtrack then it would limit your ability to adjust the audio to something else, should you prefer it. I haven't tested it with the STR DN1040 yet, but I know that with my old 5.1 channel Sony receiver, if you had Stereo selected then that was what the receiver put out, regardless of what you were feeding it. The DTS/Dolby indicator lights merely inform you that your receiver is receiving a DTS/Dolby soundtrack. It doesn't necessarily mean that what your AVR is putting out is the original 5.1/7.1 mix, with zero modification.

For example, some people prefer using front heights rather than rear surrounds. In this situation, even if you are playing a 7.1 channel soundtrack, you need to be able to switch the receiver's sound mode to Dolby PL IIz. Otherwise, the sounds that were meant for the rear surrounds would be directed to your front heights, which would not sound right. Also, if the soundtrack you are playing is only 5.1, but you want to use all 7.2 speakers you need to be able to use Dolby PL IIx or Dolby PL IIz to do so. While not a feature of the STR DN1040, there are 9.1 and even 11.1 channel receivers with the ability to expand a 2.0/5.1/7.1 soundtrack to use all available speakers using the DTS Neo:X surround processing mode. If your sound mode setting was simply ignored when the receiver detected a Dolby/DTS signal then it would not be possible to force your receiver to use all available speakers when the soundtrack has fewer discrete channels than you have speakers. This would make DTS Neo:X completely worthless since there aren't any 9.1 or 11.1 channel soundtracks available for home use at present.

Similarly, you can also use the sound mode setting to force a 5.1/7.1 soundtrack to be output as stereo, multi-stereo, or any of the other sound modes available on your receiver, regardless of the number of speakers you have attached.
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post #1055 of 1079 Old 07-10-2014, 01:38 PM
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All owners of SONY STRDN1040,

Do you'll have any recommendation on where I can find good deals on this receiver?

I don't mind getting a used one.

Ali.
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post #1056 of 1079 Old 07-13-2014, 12:07 AM
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Clicking sound?

Hi,

I´m happy with my 1040 but just have to ask, does anyone else hear a clicking/ticking sound from the receiver itself? I never hear it during music/movie but when it is silent its very destinctive...
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post #1057 of 1079 Old 07-14-2014, 03:15 AM
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I think that's the plastic on chassis expanding and contracting with it heating up and cooling down. I've had several electronics do this in the past. My PS4 sometimes does it as well. I'd check the manual and see if it makes mention of it in there.

If it's anything else,com not sure what it could be.
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post #1058 of 1079 Old 07-14-2014, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QKN View Post
Hi,

I´m happy with my 1040 but just have to ask, does anyone else hear a clicking/ticking sound from the receiver itself? I never hear it during music/movie but when it is silent its very destinctive...
The only clicking I have heard from mine is the distinct single click when you turn it on and off, or mute it.
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post #1059 of 1079 Old 07-14-2014, 02:41 PM
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Hello All,
New STR-DN1040 owner here. I upgraded from an Onkyo TXNr609. I primarily did so for the extra HDMI ports and the fact the DN1040 was an Amazon Deal of the Day.

TV = Sony Bravia XBR-55HX929
Receiver = STR-DN1040
All HDMI cables are either 1.3 or 1.4.

While I am still on the fence about things overall, I do not have any real issues with the DN1040 itself.

However I am having one hell of a weird issue and was hoping the experts here might have an idea as to what else to do, or if I am missing some settings somewhere.

When I try to play a 3D game on my PS4 (there are a very few games that support it), it works for about 3-5 minutes, then it is like the image actually doubles up. And I am not talking CrossTalk double up, I am talking about it looks like it somehow is getting put on the screen 4 times total. It is quite odd. Sometimes it just corrects itself. Other times it stays messed up.

Well I posted on a gaming related forum, and right away people said put of the Auto Detect 3D function on my TV. I did that, and yet still when I enable the 3D on the PS4, the TV automatically switches to 3D Mode and says it detected a 3D Signal.

I believe this issue all has to do with Bravia Sync. I have unchecked the "Enable HDMI Link" on my PS4, I have also disabled "Control for HDMI" on the receiver itself. Am I missing settings somewhere else?

With my TV Bravia Sync does not seem as easy to disable, but I am trying to figure that out now.

So I guess first I am wondering if anyone else has seen any weird 3D issues with this receiver? And if so what was the fix?
If not, what ideas does anyone have about possible settings to fix the issue?
Again, the 3D does work for 3-5 minutes, but it is like the image outputs twice and or the detection on the TV gets thrown off.
I have yet to try going straight to the TV to see how that works, but am willing to if needed.

TIA for any help, incredibly long time lurker here.
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post #1060 of 1079 Old 07-14-2014, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyLarry View Post
Hello All,
New STR-DN1040 owner here. I upgraded from an Onkyo TXNr609. I primarily did so for the extra HDMI ports and the fact the DN1040 was an Amazon Deal of the Day.

TV = Sony Bravia XBR-55HX929
Receiver = STR-DN1040
All HDMI cables are either 1.3 or 1.4.

While I am still on the fence about things overall, I do not have any real issues with the DN1040 itself.

However I am having one hell of a weird issue and was hoping the experts here might have an idea as to what else to do, or if I am missing some settings somewhere.

When I try to play a 3D game on my PS4 (there are a very few games that support it), it works for about 3-5 minutes, then it is like the image actually doubles up. And I am not talking CrossTalk double up, I am talking about it looks like it somehow is getting put on the screen 4 times total. It is quite odd. Sometimes it just corrects itself. Other times it stays messed up.

Well I posted on a gaming related forum, and right away people said put of the Auto Detect 3D function on my TV. I did that, and yet still when I enable the 3D on the PS4, the TV automatically switches to 3D Mode and says it detected a 3D Signal.

I believe this issue all has to do with Bravia Sync. I have unchecked the "Enable HDMI Link" on my PS4, I have also disabled "Control for HDMI" on the receiver itself. Am I missing settings somewhere else?

With my TV Bravia Sync does not seem as easy to disable, but I am trying to figure that out now.

So I guess first I am wondering if anyone else has seen any weird 3D issues with this receiver? And if so what was the fix?
If not, what ideas does anyone have about possible settings to fix the issue?
Again, the 3D does work for 3-5 minutes, but it is like the image outputs twice and or the detection on the TV gets thrown off.
I have yet to try going straight to the TV to see how that works, but am willing to if needed.

TIA for any help, incredibly long time lurker here.
The first thing I would try is connecting the PS4 directly to the TV. If the problem persists then it's not the AVR that is causing it.

Assuming the problem persists without the AVR in the loop...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but 3D PS4 games use side by side format, correct? If so, then that is what you want to manually set the TV to use. Check to see if the issue is resolved. If not, try playing a 3D Bluray, switching the 3D mode back to Auto. Do you get the same issue watching a 3D movie? If so then I suspect the issue is with the glasses/TV. Your TV uses active 3D, correct? It's possible that the glasses are losing sync with the display. Try charging the glasses to full then power cycle both the TV and glasses.

If the problem goes away when you remove the AVR from the loop then this points to a compatibility issue between the 3D format/resolution and the passthru capabilities of the AVR. What resolution is the game playing at?
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post #1061 of 1079 Old 07-15-2014, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by HockeyoAJB View Post
The first thing I would try is connecting the PS4 directly to the TV. If the problem persists then it's not the AVR that is causing it.

It's possible that the glasses are losing sync with the display. Try charging the glasses to full then power cycle both the TV and glasses.
Just wanted to say thank you. Sure enough The problem persisted with the AVR out of the loop (PS4 connected directly to the TV) and it turns out the glasses were just losing their sync. I believe it is the Kinect 2.0 from the XBox One causing the issue, and not sure what the hell I can do there, as the camera for the PS4 is currently occupying the top of my TV. I tried moving some stuff around to see if it resolves the issue, so will see.

It was no doubt a sync issue after all of this.

The ironic thing is I use 3D about 5 times a year, if that, so it is one of those things it is not going to have a drastic affect on my everyday life, it is just the fact I know it exists that it is driving me nuts. And of course I would like to enjoy the feature if I have a reason to.

Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. It is truly very much appreciated.
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post #1062 of 1079 Old 07-16-2014, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DirtyLarry View Post
Just wanted to say thank you. Sure enough The problem persisted with the AVR out of the loop (PS4 connected directly to the TV) and it turns out the glasses were just losing their sync. I believe it is the Kinect 2.0 from the XBox One causing the issue, and not sure what the hell I can do there, as the camera for the PS4 is currently occupying the top of my TV. I tried moving some stuff around to see if it resolves the issue, so will see.

It was no doubt a sync issue after all of this.

The ironic thing is I use 3D about 5 times a year, if that, so it is one of those things it is not going to have a drastic affect on my everyday life, it is just the fact I know it exists that it is driving me nuts. And of course I would like to enjoy the feature if I have a reason to.

Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. It is truly very much appreciated.
As you noted, the IR camera in the Kinect 2.0 could be the culprit. If moving things around doesn't help then I might suggest seeing if you can turn off the IR camera, or cover it up when you are watching something in 3D. You would think that they would have tested the IR camera to ensure that it doesn't interfere with other IR devices. Then again, other than the use of Active 3D glasses, I can't think of many devices that would require an IR receiver in the position of the viewer, facing towards the TV. Usually it's the emitter (e.g. remote control) that points towards the TV and all of the devices that use receivers are on the same side of the room as the TV, facing towards the viewer.
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post #1063 of 1079 Old 07-16-2014, 05:07 PM
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Thought I'd pass on my experience with the STR-dn1040 I received from amazon...

Original Amplifier: Denon AVR-3805
Inputs: HTPC with AMD 7770, PS4, wii u,
Output: Benq 1080st
Content: Silicon Dust HDHR-Prime for cable card for WMC7, bluray from ps4, games..

First experience: Terrible. Could barely get output from the device until the firmware upgrade was complete. Worst experience of setting up a consumer electronics device ever...

Issues: HDMI to my projector is a bust. I have not yet been able to turn on the Sony dn1040 without having to unplug/re-plug/troubleshoot no image sent to the projector. I will try again tonight, but it appears that I need to turn on inputs and outputs before bringing the Sony out of standby. I've replaced the existing HDMI cable to the projector as well as putting a HDMI noCEC adapter inline with Lon improvement. The last step is to try a HDMI 1.3 cable w/o Ethernet. I'm getting close to send this back to Amazon....

Surround Sound field quality: Impressive when compared to a well seasoned Denon AVR-3805. Where the Denon would produce an "under water effect" at times when generating a 3.4.1 surround sound field from 3.2.1 source in PLIIx, the Sony 1040 produces a clean and clear image. I'll be grabbing a redbox bluray for a more definitive test this evening.

User experience: great menus, crappy remote. Still need to download the app. The lack of volume & setting OSD on top of video is a major design oversight.

Device Quality: looks nice, feels cheap to the touch. While it's a heavy amp, it's much lighter than the 3805.

Will I keep it? If I can find a painless way to get a picture to my projector, I'd like to.
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post #1064 of 1079 Old 07-18-2014, 01:55 PM
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Are 4ohm Speakers OK?

I was about to purchase some BETTER Speakers for my Fronts in 7.1 Setup, then found out they are 4 ohm, rest of my system is 8 ohm.............will the 1040 be OK running these 2 -- 4 ohm Speakers w/o possibly damaging the Receiver etc.??? PLEASE advise........and


Thanks, michael
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post #1065 of 1079 Old 07-18-2014, 10:57 PM
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Seems I can't plug a flash drive into the USB port on the front of the avr with any success. The avr can't seem to read it. I've formatted it as FAT. Kind of disappointing. Or should this work? Should a powered USB drive work?

I set up a Windows Media Server instance and the avr read it right away and I was able to select music and play it, but then it flamed out after about 10 minutes. This over wifi, not ethernet.

Thoughts on either count?
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post #1066 of 1079 Old 07-19-2014, 02:50 PM
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I tried a powered external USB hard drive and that almost works, sort of. It takes longer than I'd expect for the avr to read the drive. The FAT partition is only 4GB on this drive and there's not much music on it. Maybe 50 songs, if that. It still must have taken a full minute. Then, I played a few seconds of this song and that, just to see how things would work. Seemed OK, until I left one tune to play all the way through. After a little over a minute, it stopped, then after a short time, started playing the first song on in the first folder listed on the drive. I just did the same cycle over again and, as I'm typing this, a 5 minute song stalled out at just under 4 minutes. This time, there's nothing I can do. It's just stuck there, frozen. The avr isn't frozen, but the USB side of things is until I turn the avr off and turn it on again. Maybe another drive... Or maybe this just doesn't work well, maybe the avr is defective, maybe it's not designed to work this way.

Nothing like paying for features I thought I was going to get that don't work, even if the amp was on sale.

Should an Android tablet (Nexus 7) or phone (Nexus 4) play audio over a USB connection to the front of the avr? That doesn't work, either, though at least Bluetooth does.

Last edited by maigre; 07-19-2014 at 03:08 PM.
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post #1067 of 1079 Old 07-19-2014, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QKN View Post
Hi,

I´m happy with my 1040 but just have to ask, does anyone else hear a clicking/ticking sound from the receiver itself? I never hear it during music/movie but when it is silent its very destinctive...
i had also noticed this as well as was wondering if it was normal or not.
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post #1068 of 1079 Old 07-20-2014, 08:55 AM
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i just bought this receiver and and have issues detecting the 3D display. I have SONY kdl60r550a connected to this receiver. I also have Sony google TV blu ray attached to it - NSZ-GT1. When i connect the blu ray directly to TV, it detects the 3D display but not through receiver. I replaced the HDMI cable to the one that supports 3D but still not detecting. Any help is appreciated .
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post #1069 of 1079 Old 07-21-2014, 02:00 PM
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Thanks Hockey, that makes sense.

After I run auto cal, the 1040 sets my sub to -1db. But when I run the test tones with an SPL, the sub is 15db higher than the other 5 speakers (90db when the other 5 are at 75db). I read that Sony uses an LFE subwoofer test tone, which could be as much as 10db more than the other channels.

Anyone know if this is still the case for Sony?

Know what might account for the other 5db difference besides maybe room acoustics?

Would it be fair to say that the auto cal is probably more accurate than test tones with an SPL for the subwoofer since it uses more tones?
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post #1070 of 1079 Old 07-21-2014, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tinkinHD View Post
Thanks Hockey, that makes sense.

After I run auto cal, the 1040 sets my sub to -1db. But when I run the test tones with an SPL, the sub is 15db higher than the other 5 speakers (90db when the other 5 are at 75db). I read that Sony uses an LFE subwoofer test tone, which could be as much as 10db more than the other channels.

Anyone know if this is still the case for Sony?

Know what might account for the other 5db difference besides maybe room acoustics?

Would it be fair to say that the auto cal is probably more accurate than test tones with an SPL for the subwoofer since it uses more tones?
When you ran the auto-setup, did you select "Flat" or "Engineered"? That could effect the EQ settings. Are you measuring those SPL levels in the same location that the auto-calc mic was positioned when you ran the auto-setup?
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post #1071 of 1079 Old 07-21-2014, 03:00 PM
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Engineered, but toggling to Flat gives the same outcome. Unless you're suggesting it would make a difference if I choose Flat specifically during the auto cal process?

Using the same location as mic for SPL measurements.
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post #1072 of 1079 Old 07-21-2014, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osx2000 View Post
i just bought this receiver and and have issues detecting the 3D display. I have SONY kdl60r550a connected to this receiver. I also have Sony google TV blu ray attached to it - NSZ-GT1. When i connect the blu ray directly to TV, it detects the 3D display but not through receiver. I replaced the HDMI cable to the one that supports 3D but still not detecting. Any help is appreciated .
from time to time my set will not see it at first.
I usually just eject the BR disc and reinsert. it always worked fine after that.
not sure if the power on and slooow reaction of the AVR is the cause of it being so slo to see it....

my HT
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post #1073 of 1079 Old 07-25-2014, 02:55 PM
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post #1074 of 1079 Old Yesterday, 12:45 PM
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Does anyone know if its worth paying the $150 for the new 1050 model? Does it give any actual benefits to the audio or 4k video quality?
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post #1075 of 1079 Old Yesterday, 02:00 PM
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Does anyone know if its worth paying the $150 for the new 1050 model? Does it give any actual benefits to the audio or 4k video quality?
There are no differences between the 1040 and 1050 that should impact sound quality. The 4K upscaling in he 1050 might or might not be slightly better than that of the 1040. However, unless you are using a poor quality 4K display then the display's built-in 4K upscaling should be better than both AVR models, in which case you would want to turn that feature off in the AVR's settings.

The main differences between the 1040 and 1050 are the number of HDMI inputs and outputs.

The 1040 has 8 HDMI inputs, while the 1050 only has 6. This may or may not be a big deal, depending on the number of source devices you use. I know that only 4 of the 8 inputs on the 1040 support 4K passthru and upscaling. Not sure if the 1050 supports 4K passthru and upscaling on all 6 of its inputs or if it is still limited to 4. Again, this isn't really that big of a deal as there aren't many 4K source devices in existence yet and, for non-4K sources, it is best to just pass them thru as 1080p or whatever the native resolution is and allow he display to do the video processing.

The 1040 has 2 HDMI outputs, which output from the same source. The 1050 has 3 HDMI outputs, 2 of which output from the same source. The third is a Zone 2 output, which can output the A/V signal from any of the connected HDMI sources (same or different from the main zone). This is the biggest benefit of choosing the 1050 over the 1040.

Other than that, the differences are fairly minor. The 1050 supports a few more "hi-res" formats that the 1040 doesn't appear to support (AIFF, ALAC, and DSD). If you use an external device (such as a blu-ray player) that accepts these formats, you can have that device convert them to WAV or PCM, which the 1040 will accept. The 1040 uses the Network Audio Remote app whereas the 1050 uses the newer SongPal app. Both can use the TVSideview app for basic remote control capabilities. They dropped Slacker Radio and vTuner from the list of included SEN services for the 1050 and added Spotify and TuneIn as replacements. Personally, I don't really think it makes a difference as I prefer to use the IOS/Android/Windows app(s) for these services on either my tablet, smartphone, or PC and then send the audio to the receiver using Airplay or a wired connection.

Last edited by HockeyoAJB; Yesterday at 02:04 PM.
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post #1076 of 1079 Old Yesterday, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dwalinn View Post
Does anyone know if its worth paying the $150 for the new 1050 model? Does it give any actual benefits to the audio or 4k video quality?
just my guess it is HDMI 1.4 for the 1040
HDMI 2.0 for the 1050
otherwise the same. but you could go to sony and ask them.

my HT
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post #1077 of 1079 Old Yesterday, 09:24 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwalinn View Post
Does anyone know if its worth paying the $150 for the new 1050 model? Does it give any actual benefits to the audio or 4k video quality?

I actually returned my STR-DN1040 and got the STR-DN1050. We had the 1040 for almost a month but a couple things I wanted were not there, and were on the 1050. I wanted the second room outputs to carry all signals - the 1040 only carries analogue inputs. And I wanted the networking capability to easily handle FLAC files with DNLA which the 1050 does but unfortunately the 1040 did not. The number of HDMI connections are not that important to me as the 1040 had enough. Similarly up-scaling my Cable Box (using component cables) was supposed to be on both. Some folks get stupid about having a volume level indication on screen but I don't care if it's there or not - I listen to figure out if it's loud enough. The remote is vastly dumbed down on the 1050 which I thought I'd hate - but I'm liking it more and more. It takes a while to get accustomed to turning on the TV to monitor an Audio only selection (Network from the PC, AM /FM radio, etc.) on either box.


As for the sound, that's a tough call. Personally I think both receivers sounded great and we've got decent (JBL) speakers. However, the Sony folks insist the 1050 sounds better primarily due to better capacitors on the output, and better isolation circuitry preventing distortion. I think the extra $$ for the 1050 was worth it for me, but maybe not for everyone.

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post #1078 of 1079 Old Yesterday, 10:15 PM
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The networking and USB stuff on my 1040 have been so badly behaved that I'm just using a Plex server through my Roku instead. Works 100 times better and faster. That wasn't my preference, but it may be the path of least resistance.
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post #1079 of 1079 Old Today, 07:20 PM
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The DCAC auto calibration makes my subwoofer run at least 10db hot. The sub test tone seems way more accurate. Anyone else notice that?

Is it normal for the main speakers to make a 10db difference on SPL readings when testing 25-50 hz subwoofer tones if your crossover is at 80 hz or above? I thought the crossover was supposed to be a cutoff point, but apparently bass tones roll off and still add decibels from main speakers. Does that mean you have to use the mains + sub SPL reading when using low frequency test tones to get your sub to reference level?
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